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Paris

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Île-de-France : Paris
Revision as of 13:03, 3 March 2008 by Travelempire (Talk | contribs)

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For other places with the same name, see Paris (disambiguation).
Paris is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — have a look at each of them.
Paris and the river Seine

Paris [1], the cosmopolitan capital of France, is - with 2.2 million people living in zone 1 (Central Paris) and another 9.9 million people in the suburbs (la banlieue) - one of the largest cities in Europe. Located in the north of the country on the river Seine, Paris has the reputation of being the most beautiful and romantic of all cities, brimming with historic associations and remaining vastly influential in the realms of culture, art, fashion, food and design. Dubbed the City of Light, it is the most popular tourist destination in the world.

Districts

Central Paris is officially divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20 in a clockwise spiral from the centre of town. Arrondissements are named according to their number. You might, for example, stay in the "5th", which would be written as 5ème (SANK-ee-emm) in French. The 12th and 16th arrondissements include large suburban parks, the Bois de Vincennes, and the Bois de Boulogne respectively.

The very best map you can get for Paris is called "Paris Pratique par Arrondissement" which you can buy for about €2 at any news stand. It makes navigating the city easy, so much so that one can imagine that the introduction of such map-books might be part of what made the arrondissement concept so popular in the first place.

Each arrondissement has its own unique character and selection of attractions for the traveller:

The Layout of Paris by district
  • 1st (1er), (Map). the geographical centre of Paris and a great starting point for travellers. The Louvre Museum, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place Vendôme, Les Halles and Palais Royal are all to be found here.
  • 2nd (2e), (Map). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange) and the Bibliothèque Nationale are located here.
  • 3rd (3e), (Map). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, the northern, quieter part of the Marais
  • 4th (4e), (Map). Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Hôtel de Ville (Paris town hall), Beaubourg, le Marais
  • 5th (5e), (Map). Jardin des Plantes, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Le Panthéon, Le Musée de l'AP-HP
  • 6th (6e), (Map). Jardin du Luxembourg, Saint-Germain des Prés
  • 7th (7e), (Map). Tour Eiffel, Les Invalides, Musée d'Orsay
  • 8th (8e), (Map). Champs-Elysées, the Palais de l'Elysée, la Madeleine,Jacquemart-Andre Museum
  • 9th (9e), (Map). Opéra Garnier, Grands Magasins
  • 10th (10e), (Map). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est
  • 11th (11e), (Map). the bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter
  • 12th (12e), (Map). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade plantée, Quartier d'Aligre, Gare de Lyon, the Bois de Vincennes
  • 13th (13e), (Map). Quartier Chinois, Place d'Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF)
  • 14th (14e). Montparnasse Cemetery, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris, Cité Universitaire
  • 15th (15e). Montparnasse Tower, Gare Montparnasse, Stadiums
  • 16th (16e). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l'Homme, the Bois de Boulogne
  • 17th (17e). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy
  • 18th (18e). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès
  • 19th (19e). Museum of Science and Industry, Parc de la Villette, Bassin de la Villette, Parc des Buttes Chaumont
  • 20th (20e). Père Lachaise Cemetery
  • La Défense. Although it is not officially part of the city, this skyscraper district on the western edge of town is on many visitors must-see lists for its modern architecture and public art.

Beyond central Paris, the outlying suburbs are called les banlieues. Schematically, those on the west of Paris (Neuilly, Boulogne, Saint Cloud, Levallois) are wealthy residential communities. Those to the northeast are poor immigrant communities with high delinquency; keep in mind, though, that this is a very schematic classification.

Understand

History

Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité, the island in the Seine currently occupied by the Cathédral de Nôtre Dame. It takes its present name from the name of the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe in the region, the Parisii. At least that's what the Romans called them, when they showed up in 52 BCE and established their city Lutetia on the left bank of the Seine, in what is now called the "Latin Quarter" in the 5th arrondissement.

The Romans held out here for as long as anywhere else in the Western Empire, but by 508 they were gone, replaced by Clovis of the Franks, who is considered by the French to be their first king. Clovis' descendants, aka the Carolingians, held on for nearly 500 years though Viking raids and other calamities forced a move by most of the population back to the islands which had been the center of the Celtic village. The Capetian duke of Paris was voted to succeed the last of the Carolingians as king of France, insuring the city of its premier position in the medieval world. Over the next several centuries Paris expanded onto the right bank into what was called le Marais (the marsh). Quite a few buildings from this time can be seen in the 4th arrondissement.

The medieval period also witnessed the founding of the Sorbonne. As the "University of Paris", it became one of the most important centers for learning in Europe, if not the whole world, for several hundred years. Most of the institutions that constitute the University are found in the 5th, and 13th arrondissements.

The Capetian and later the Bourbon kings of France made their mark on Paris with such buildings as the Louvre and the Palais Royal, both in the 1st, but the Paris which most visitors know and love was built long after they were gone in the 19th century when Baron von Hausmann reconstructed adding the long straight avenues, and demolishing many of the medieval houses which had been left until that time.

The Eiffel Tower, Paris

New wonders arrived during la Belle Époque, as the Parisian golden age of the late 19th century is known. Gustave Eiffel's famous tower, the first metro lines, most of the parks, and the streetlights, which are partly believed to have given the city its epithet "the city of light" all come from this period. The epithet actually comes from Ville Lumière, a reference not only to the then revolutionary electrical lighting system implemented in the streets of Paris, but also to the prominence and aura of Enlightenment the city gained in that era.

The twentieth century was hard on Paris, but thankfully not as hard as it could have been. Hitler's order to burn the city was thankfully ignored by the German General von Choltitz who was quite possibly convinced by a Swedish diplomat that it would be better to surrender and be remembered as the savior of Paris, than to be remembered as its destroyer. Following the war the city recovered slowly at first, and then more quickly in the 1970s and 1980s when Paris began to experience some of the problems faced by big cities everywhere: pollution, housing shortages, and occasionally failed experiments in urban renewal.

During this time however Paris enjoyed considerable growth as a multi-cultural city, with new immigrants from all corners of the world, especially la francophonie, including most of northern and western Africa as well as Vietnam and Laos. These immigrants brought their foods and music both of which are of prime interest for many travelers. Today, there are more nationalities represented in Paris than even in New York (over 100).

Immigration and multi-culturalism continues! The 21st century has seen a marked increase in the arrival of people from Latin America, especially Mexico, Colombia, and Brazil. In the late 1990s it was hard to find good Mexican food in Paris, however, today there are dozens of possibilities from lowly taquerias in the outer arrondissements to nice sit-down restaurants on the boulevards. The chili pepper has arrived. Meanwhile Latin music from Salsa to Samba is all the rage (well, alongside Paris lounge electronica).

The 21st century has also seen vast improvements in the general livability of Paris, with the Mayor's office concentrating on reducing pollution and improving facilities for soft forms of transportation including a huge network of cycle paths, larger pedestrian districts and newer faster metro lines. Visitors who normally arrive car-less are the beneficiaries of these policies as much as the Parisians themselves are.

Get in

By plane

Paris is served by three international airports - for more information, including arrival/departure times, check the official sites.

Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy ICAO: LFPG, IATA: CDG) [2] to the north-east of the city is one of the major hub airports of Europe. It's notoriously confusing, so allow plenty of time for transfers. There are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is huge and subdivided into 2A through 2F), and Terminal 3 (formerly T9). The free CDGVAL shuttle train connects the terminals together. Everything at this airport is very expensive and especially the basics like food. There are also hardly any benches around.

For getting to or from Paris, RER-B has stations in T3 (from where you can take the airport shuttle bus number 2 to T1) and T2; trains to Paris (Châtelet-Les Halles) leave every 15 minutes, cost €8,50 each and take around 40 minutes, making this the fastest and cheapest way to connect. Alternatively, the Roissybus service connects all terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but it's subject to traffic jams and takes 60-90 minutes even on a good day. There is also a TGV station in T2 for high-speed connections, mostly towards Lille and Brussels, but there are also some trains that head south to eg. Rennes and Nantes, bypassing Paris.

Orly International Airport (ICAO: LFPO, IATA: ORY), to the south-west of the city, and served by a southern branch of the RER-B line. This older international airport is used mainly by Air France for national lines, and other international carriers in Europe. Orly is roughly forty minutes from Paris via the OrlyBus, which departs from Métro Denfert-Rochereau; the price is €6. Another option is bus 285 that takes you to the Villejuif - Louis Aragon metro station (ligne 7) in 15 minutes. Bus 285 costs €1.5 and runs every 10 minutes, stopping at airport level -1.

The Orlyval light rail connects both terminals to the RER B line at Antony. It runs every 4-7 minutes and cost €9.30 for transfer to Paris (nov 2007). The RER B from Antony runs through Paris to Aéroport Charles de Gaulle.

Beauvais (Aéroport de Paris Beauvais Tillé ICAO: LFOB, IATA: BVA), to the north of the city, is a smaller regional airport that is used by some low-cost carriers, such as RyanAir (list flights). The airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the Métro at Porte Maillot station. Buses leave 20 minutes after each flight arrives, and a few hours before each flight departs. This is important: you should be there waiting for the bus around three hours and fifteen minutes before your flight, and the bus stop has no facilities, it's just a parking lot! However, there are a number of fast food outlets, shops and toilets at the Palais des Congres building situated across the road. Exact times can be found on the Beauvais Airport website. The journey will take about an hour in good traffic conditions, and costs €13 each way (as of August 2007).

In addition to public transport, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (€10 - €12), Orly and Paris (€7.5) and between the two airports (€15). Note that if you have connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different airports, you would still generally need to fetch your luggage after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi to the other airport and check-in again. This altogether could take up to 2 hours particularly if traffic is at its worse. It is also common to lose time during disembarking, as passengers often need to get off at the tarmac and get on buses which will bring them to the terminal building. Be sure to have sufficient time between flights to catch your connection. Note that check-in counters usually close 30 minutes before the flight departs.

If you arrive to CDG Airport at night you'll need a Noctilien bus to get to the city center. The bus stops in all three terminals (in terminal 2 it will be the second level in departure section - it is very difficult to find, but it really exists). The bus leaves every 30 minutes after 00:30 (see timetable). The buses you'll need are N121 and N120; the price is 7 Euro.

By train

Paris is well connected to the rest of Europe by train. Click above to see the approximate journey times for the fastest train connections to the rest of Europe.

There are several stations serving Paris. You will probably want to know in advance at which station your train is arriving, so as to better choose a hotel and plan for transport within the city.

The SNCF (French national railway authority) operates practically all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to London and the Thalys to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands and Germany. There are also a few local lines of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website is very convenient to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are significant discounts if you book early. To get the best rates you should book at least four weeks ahead. Surprisingly, round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%.

There a a number of different kinds of high speed and normal trains:

  • TER Regional trains and normal day or night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These are the trains you'll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don't want to pay extra for reservations.
  • TGV - the world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run several times a day to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h15) and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains.
  • Thalys - a high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands and Belgium - it can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains
  • Eurostar - the Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London St Pancras International currently averages at 2 hours 15 minutes, following the opening of a new rail link in late 2007.

By bus

  • Eurolines [3] is a transeuropean bus company that offers trips to Paris.

By car

Several autoroutes link Paris with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. Not surprisingly traffic jams are significantly worse during French school holidays. Online visual traffic information is available at http://www.sytadin.equipement.gouv.fr/.

The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the Périphérique, is probably preferable to driving through the center. Another beltway nearing completion La Francilienne loops around Paris about 10 km further out from the Périphérique.

It is advised not to drive in the Paris Metro Area. It is better to drive to a metro station with a parking lot and then use the metro to continue your trip throughout Paris. Most of Paris' roads were created long before the invention of automobiles. Traffic inside the city tends to be heavy, especially at rush hour, driving however may be rather easy and efficient in the evening; parking also is difficult. Also, the medieval nature of parts of the city's street system makes it very confusing, and traffic will almost never allow one to stop or slow down to get one's bearings. If you are unfamiliar with the streets and still insist on driving in the city, make sure you have a navigator in the passenger seat with you.

Get around

By car

It is generally a bad idea to rent a car to visit Paris. Traffic is very dense, and parking tends to be difficult. This is especially true in areas surrounding points of touristic interest, since many of these are in areas designed long before automobiles existed. Many Parisian households do not own cars.

Driving may be an option for going to some sights in the suburbs such as Vaux-le-Vicomte castle or the castle and city at Fontainebleau, or for starting to other places in France. You may prefer to rent from a location not situated in Paris proper.

Note that the driving rules in France differ greately from most English-speaking countries. The major difference is that at roundabouts, traffic entering the roundabout has the right-of-way, unless the roundabout entrances are signposted otherwise: "Vous n'avez la priorité". Unless you see that sign when entering a roundabout, you must prepare to give way/yield to all traffic entering the roundabout. This is the opposite from what occurs in the UK, Australia and other English-speaking countries. Take special care when driving in France.

On foot

Directions
If you find yourself lost in the streets, a good idea is to find the nearest Hotel and ask the concierge for directions. Most speak English well-- but remember to be polite! A simple "Bonjour Monsieur, parlez-vous anglais?" should suffice.

Walking in Paris is one of the great pleasures of visiting the City of Light. It's possible to cross the entire city in only a few hours, if you can somehow keep yourself from stopping at numerous cafés and shops. In fact within a few years walking combined with biking and the Metro will be the only way to get around the very center of Paris: The Mayor's office has announced plans to declare the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arrondissements almost totally car-free by 2012.

The smartest travelers take advantage of the walkability of this city, and stay above ground as much as possible. A metro ride of less than 2 stops is probably best avoided since walking will take about the same amount of time and you'll be able to see more of the city.

Paris walking 101
To get a great orientation of the city on foot while seeing many of Paris' major sights, you can do a West to East walk from the Arc de Triomphe to Ile de la Cite (Notre Dame). This walk takes about 1-2 hours without any stops. Start at the top of the Champs Elysees (at the Arc de Triomphe) and begin walking down the Champs Elysees towards Place ('square') de la Concorde.

  • On the way towards the obelisk on the square, you'll see the major stores and restaurants of Paris' most famous avenue.
  • Once you've passed the main shopping area, you'll see the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais to your right.
  • At Place de la Concorde, you'll be able to see many of Paris' major monuments around you. In front of you is the Tuileries, behind you is the Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, behind you to your right is the Tour Eiffel and Musee d'Orsay, and finally, to your left is the Madeleine.
  • Continue straight ahead and enter the Tuileries Gardens passing by fountains, flowers... and lovers in the park.
  • As you continue straight ahead, and out of the garden, you'll see the pyramid entrance to the Louvre directly in front of you.
  • With the pyramid directly in front of you, and the Tuileries directly behind you, turn to your right and walk towards the Seine.
  • Now you can walk along the Seine (eastwards) until you reach Pont Neuf. Cross Pont Neuf and walk through the Latin Quarter, cross the river again to reach Notre Dame cathedral on Ile de la Cité.


You may have heard of the hazard of walking into dog droppings in Paris. Unfortunately, despite many campaigns to get Parisians to clean up after their dogs it's still quite true that you have to keep an eye on the sidewalk in front of you. Eventually with a little practice you'll be able to avoid these little packages without effort while looking every way but down, though you may find yourself dancing around fallen leaves in the autumn (some are just the right size and color).

Métro

Paris has an excellent underground train system, known as the Métro (short for Chemin de Fer Métropolitain i.e. Metropolitan Railways). There are 16 lines (lignes) (1-14, 3bis and 7bis) on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes between 5 AM and 1:30AM (Saturday night/Sunday morning: 02:30), stopping at all stations on the line. Line 14, which is fully automated, is called the Méteor. Scheduled times for first and last trains are posted in each station on the center sign.

The lines are named according to the names of their terminal stations (those at the end of the line). If you ask the locals about directions they will answer something like : take line number n toward "end station 1", change at "station", take the line nn toward "end station 2" etc. The lines are also color-coded.

In addition there are 5 train lines called RER A, B, C, D, E. RER trains run at intervals of about 6 - 7 minutes, and stop at every station within Paris. Although a regular subway ticket can be used within Paris (Zone 1), it is necessary to pass the ticket through the turnstile when passing between the subway and the RER lines, as the two systems are separate networks. This ticket is necessary to both enter and exit the RER networks, as the RER trains travel on to the Parisian suburbs, outside the zone where a regular subway ticket can be used. Beware that traveling outside the city center without a valid RER ticket will get you fined, and the packs of inspectors who roam the system show no mercy to tourists pleading innocence. In particular, CDG airport is not within the city, and you'll need to purchase a more expensive RER ticket to get there (see Get in).

For travel outside of the Paris zone, the train arrival times are shown on a monitor hanging from the ceiling inside the RER station above the platform. Information about the stops to be made by the next train is presented on a separate board also hanging from the ceiling. It is important to check this board before boarding the train, as not all trains make stops at all stations on a given line.

RATP is responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and some of the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). The rest of the RER is operated by SNCF. However, both companies take the same tickets, so the difference is of little interest for most people except in case of strikes (because RATP may strike while SNCF does not, or the other way round). Current fares can be found at their website. Basically, as you move further from Paris, tickets get more expensive.

For the subway, a single ticket (ticket t+) costs €1.50; however, it is generally not advisable to buy tickets by the unit and to rather purchase a carnet of ten tickets, which can be bought for €11.10 at any station, that will bring the price per ticket down to €1.11. The ticket is valid for unlimited metro, RER, bus and tram transfers during one hour. Tickets do not expire.

A 1-day ticket, a weekly pass, and a monthly pass are also available. The price varies according to the zones for which the ticket can be used. The cheapest 1-day ticket, called Mobilis, is valid for zones 1-2, with a price of 5.60 euros. Once bought, it is necessary to write in the spaces provided on the ticket: 1) the date the ticket is being used in European notation of day/month/year (Valable le), 2) the last name (Nom), and 3) and the first name (Prénom). Unfortunately, although this ticket is valid for use for travel to/from Charles de Gaulle airport, it is not sold at the CDG train stations.

If you're staying a bit longer, the weekly and monthly passes are called Carte Orange. The weekly pass is called Carte Orange Hebdomadaire (1 week pass, €16.30 for Paris and inner suburbs), and the monthly Carte Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass). Note that an Hebdomadaire (eb-DOH-ma-DAYR: in French you don't pronounce the H) starts on Mondays and a Mensuelle on the first of the month. Although the Carte Orange is sold anonymously, it is non-transferrable, and therefore requires the user to provide information on the pass after the sale. The initial Carte Orange must be bought from a RATP kiosk, and will come in two parts: a credit-card sized ID card and the actual magnetic ticket. You will need one small photograph -- you can use a photomat in a larger métro station or trim a passport photo -- to glue onto the ID card. You then in ink write your last and first names in the spaces provided on the ID card, and the number of the ID card in the space provided on the magnetic ticket. The Carte Orange is scheduled to be phased out sometime in 2008, at which time it will be replaced with a similarly functioning magnetic pass called the Navigo Découverte. Although the Navigo Découverte is currently available, it costs 5 euro just for the pass, whereas the Carte Orange is free.

Ornate Métro sign

Although not as good a deal for adults in most cases as the Mobilis or Carte Orange, there are also 1 to 5 day tourist passes, called Paris Visite, available, which are a bargain for kids of ages 4 to 11, starting at €4.25 per day for travel within zones 1-3.

Keep your métro ticket or pass with you at all times, you may be checked or "controlled." You will be cited and forced to pay on the spot. Althought the most likely spots for controls are at big métro stations or during métro line change "correspondances", it is not uncommon for "controleurs" to check tickets on trains. RATP agents may be present in the metro stations even on Sunday night.

Métro stations have both ticket windows and automatic vending machines. The majority of automatic vending machines take only coins or European credit cards with a pin-encoded chip on the front. Therefore, to use either Euro bills or a non-European credit card with a magnetic stripe, it is necessary to make the purchase from the ticket window.

Avoid suburban charges
If you have any tickets or carte orange for zone 1-2 ("inside" Paris area: the lower rate) and want go to La Defense from Chatelet, you have to take the metro (line 1). You can take the RER A (and save a few minutes) but you have to pay an additionnal fare, because even though you arrive at the same station, the RER exit is supposed to be outside of Paris! On the other hand, métro fares are the same, even in the suburbs. So be careful, there are usually a lot of ticket examiners present when you get off the RER A.


Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments, schools, places of worship etc.). Maps are located on the platform if the station has several exits or near the exit if there is only one.

When the train arrives, the doors may not open automatically. In such a case, there are handles located both inside and outside the train which you have to push in order to open the door.

Boat

There are several excellent boat services which makes use of the Seine. As well as providing easy, cheap transport to much of central Paris, excellent photo opportunities abound. You can buy a day or 3 day ticket and hop on and off the boat as needed. The boats take a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank past Musee D'orsay.

Skating

Paris is the mecca of city skating. This is due to the large, smooth surfaces offered by both the pavements and the roads. Skating on the pavement is legal all around Central Paris (zone 1) and its suburbs (zone 2+).

Bicycle

Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using public transport. Riding a bike anywhere in the city is far safer for the moderately experienced cyclists than almost any town or city in the United States. The French are very cognizant of cyclists, almost to a point of reverence. A few years ago Paris wasn't the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a lengthy bus and traffic jam. The city government has taken a number of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. Paris also has many riversides which are perfect for cycling as well. The Paris bike network now counts over 150 km of either unique or shared lanes for the cyclist.

You can find an excellent map of the bike network called Plan des itinéraires cyclables (download here) at the information center in the Hôtel de Ville.

There are two different bike rental programs in Paris:

  • Vélib, [4]. In July 2007 the municipality of Paris introduced the Vélib program ("vélo liberté" or Bicycle Freedom) by which it is possible to rent a bike for a very modest price. Numerous stations are to be found around the city; with your credit card (although sadly at this writing many American cards do not work at the machines), you can subscribe for 1 day (1€) or 7 days (5€) & then get a bike; the first 30 mn are free... so the game is to get to another station in 25 mn & get another bicycle (you will have to wait for 5 mn before you get another one, though). Try it; if your card works in the machines it's a great way to get around!

In addition to operating a number of bike rental buses, the RATP has some permanent locations, including:

  • Roue Libre, Les Halles, 1 passage Mondétour (facing 120 rue Rambuteau, Métro: Les Halles), +33 8 10 44 15 34, [5]. Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), Monday to Friday (€20), a working day (€9), or one day in the weekend (€14).

Roue Libre, Bastille, 37, boulevard Bourdon, ''Métro: Bastille'', +33 1 44 54 19 29, [6]. Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), Monday to Friday (€20), a working day (€9), or one day in the weekend (€14).

Bikes can also be rented from numerous private vendors:

  • Fat Tire Bike Tours, 24, rue Edgar Faure, +33 6 56 58 10 54, [7]. Open daily; rentals are €2/hour, €15/day, €25/2 day period, or €45/week. Fat Tire also provides daily tours.
  • Bike About Tours, (Rue Lobau & Rue du Rivoli ''Métro: Hôtel de Ville''), +33 6 21 18 46 93, [8]. ) Open daily; rentals are €15/day, €25/2 day period. They also provide guided bike tours of Paris, given by local, English-speaking guides who know the city well. This is a great way to experience Paris. They are one of the smaller tour companies in Paris & give you a great insiders look at the city.

Bus

Since the Métro is primarily structured around a "hub and spoke" model, there are some journeys for which it can be quite inefficient, and in these cases it is worth seeing if a direct bus route exists, despite the complexity of the bus network. A bus ride is also interesting if you want to see more of the city. The Parisian bus system is quite tourist-friendly. It uses the same single-ride tickets and Carte Orange as the Métro, and electronic displays inside each bus tell riders its current position and what stops remain, eliminating a lot of confusion.

These same payment devices are also valid in the Noctilien, the night bus, where tickets normally cost €2.70. Noctambus routes all begin hourly at Chatelet and run to outlying areas of greater Paris. It pays to know one's Noctambus route ahead of time in case one misses the last Métro home. Women travellers should probably avoid taking the Noctambus on their own.

Another option for travelers who want to see the sights of Paris without a stop on every street corner is the Paris L’Open Tour Bus. An open topped double decker bus that supplies headsets with the most up to date information on the attractions in Paris. Your ticket is good for 4 routes ranging in time from 1-2 hours. Get off when you want, stay as long as you need, get back on the bus and head for another site. You can purchase tickets at the bus stop. A 1 day pass is €26 for adults and €13 for children. A two day pass is €29 for adults or €13 for children.

Taxi

Taxis are comparatively cheap especially at night when there are no traffic jams to be expected. They are however but not nearly plentiful enough. In the daytime, it is not always a good idea to take a taxi, as walking or taking the metro (See: Métro) will often be faster. If you know you will need one to get to the airport, or to a meeting, it is wise to book ahead by phone (Taxis Bleus and Taxis G7).

To stop a taxi...
... watch the sign on the roof:

  • if the white sign is lit, the cab is on duty and available,
  • if the white sign is off and a colored light is lit under it (blue, orange), it's on duty and busy,
  • if the white sign is off and no coloured light is on, the taxi is off duty.


Remember if a taxi is near a 'taxi station', they're not supposed to pick you up except at the station where there may be people waiting for a taxi. Taxi stations are usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, large crossings.

There are a number of services by which you can call for taxis or make a reservation in advance:

  • Taxis de France, [9].
  • Taxi-Paris, [10].
  • Shuttle Taxi, [11].

As in many other cities a taxi can be difficult to stop; you may have to try several times. When you do get a taxi to stop, the driver will usually roll down his window to ask you where you want to go. If the driver can't (or doesn't want to) go where you want, he might tell you that he's near the end of his work day & can't possibly get you where you want before he has to go off-duty.

There is a €5.50 minimum on all taxi rides, mandated by city law, but the meter does not show this amount, which can result in being asked to pay more than the metered amount on short rides. Frequently the taxi driver will not want to drive you all the way to the doorstep, but will prefer to let you out a block or so away if there are one or more one-way streets to contend with. Try to look at this as a cost-savings rather than an inconvenience. You should pay while still seated in the cab as in London and not through the front window New York style.

The driver will not let you sit in the front seat (unless there are 3 or 4 of you, which in and of itself possibly won't go over so well). Taxi-drivers come in all types, some nice, some rude, some wanting to chat, some not. Smoking in taxis is generally not allowed, however it might be that the taxi driver himself wants a cigarette in which case the rule might become flexible.

Many drivers prefer that you avoid using your cellphone during the ride; if you do have to, make an apologizing gesture & sound, and do make a short call.

  • A tip is included in the fare price; If you're especially satisfied with the service, you can give something (basically 10%), but you don't have to.
  • There is an extra charge for baggage handling.

If for any reason you wish to file a complaint about a Paris taxi, take note of the taxi's number on the sticker on the left hand backseat window.

Talk

In the parts of the city that tourists frequent the most (Tour Eiffel, Le Louvre, Champs-Elysées), the shopkeepers, information booths attendants, and other workers are likely to answer you in English, even if your French is advanced. These workers tend to deal with thousands of foreign-speaking tourists, and responding in English is often faster than repeating themselves in French. This is not the case in the rest of the city.

Reading up
Before you leave you may want to read a book like French or Foe by Polly Platt or Almost French by Sarah Turnbull — interesting, well written records from English speaking persons who live in France.


For most people English is something the Parisians had to study in school, and thus seems a bit of a chore. People helping you out in English are making an extra effort, sometimes a considerable one. Younger people are much more likely to be fluent in English than older people. If it's your first time in France you will have some problems understanding what people are saying. They talk fast, swallow some letters, and generally concentrate on the tone and melody of their speach in an effort to make it all sound like beautiful music.

Likewise, the French taught in schools in English-speaking countries tends to be written French which is quite different from spoken French. Indeed, French spoken by native English speakers tends to be really hardly understandable by the French - do not be offended if people ask you to repeat, or seem not to understand you, they do not act out of snobbery. Keep your sense of humour, and if necessary, write down phrases or place names. And remember to speak slowly and clearly. Unless you have an advanced level and can at least sort of understand French Movies you should also assume that it will be difficult for people to understand what you are saying.

When in need of directions what you should do is this: find a younger person, or a person reading some book or magazine in English, who is obviously not in a hurry; say "hello" or "bonjour"; start by asking if the person speaks English (even if he/she's reading something in English), speak slowly and clearly; write down place names if necessary. Smile a lot. Also, carry a map (preferably Paris par Arronsissement); given the complexity of Paris streets it is difficult to explain how to find any particular address in any language, no matter how well you speak it.

On the other hand you will probably the cold shoulder if you stop a random person in the métro (like, say, some middle-aged hurried person who has a train to take), fail to greet them and say "where is place X or street Y".

Now if you do speak French, remember two magic sentences : "Excusez-moi de vous déranger" and "Pourriez-vous m'aider?" — use them liberally - especially in shops; they will work wonders.


See

One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights of Paris is with the Paris Museum Pass (previously known as Carte Musées et Monuments), a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and comes in 2-day (€30), 4-day (€45) and 6-day (€60) denominations (prices as of March 2007). The card allows you to jump otherwise sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most special exhibitions.

Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket counters close 30 - 45 minutes before final closing.

Also consider the ParisPass also a pre paid entry card + queue jumping to 60 attractions including The Louvre, The Arc de Triomphe, as well as a river cruise, open top bus tour, cycle hire and allows free metro & public transport travel.

All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month; note, however, that this may mean long lines and crowded exhibits. Keep away from Paris during Easter week. It's really crowded. People have to queue up at the Eiffel tower for several hours.

These listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see if you can during your visit to Paris. The complete listings are found on each individual district page (follow the link in parenthesis).

A good listing of almost everything to do in Paris are the 'Pariscope', the 'Officiel des spectacles', and the much hipper 'Zurban' , weekly magazines listing all concerts, stage plays and museums. Available from many kiosks. Unfortunately their website is of no use at all. If you prefer a web version, you can visit Cityzeum, with maps of Paris, audio tours to download freely and more than 2000 visit and entertainment points.

Landmarks

Notre Dame de Paris
  • the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) (7th). One of the most famous landmarks in the world.
  • Père-Lachaise Cemetery (20th). See the grave of Jim Morrison amongst many others.
  • Catacombs (14th). Used to store the exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery.
  • Arc de Triomphe (8th). The grave of the unknown soldier is under the arch.
  • Notre Dame Cathedral (4th). Impressive Gothic cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo's novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame. Saved in the 19th century by the best-known french architect Viollet-le-Duc.
Sacré Coeur
  • Sacré Coeur (18th). A church perched on top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the artists' area, in front are spectacular views of the whole city.
  • Sainte Chapelle (1st). Far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame. Make sure you go an a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte Chappelle a miss, as the play of colored lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day.
  • Pantheon (5th). Underneath, the final resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic; above, a marvellous view of the city.
  • Chateau de Versailles (Versailles). On the outskirts of the city, the "must see" home of the Sun King Louis XIV.
  • Grand Arche de la Defense (La Defense). A modern office-building variant of the Arc de Triomphe. Has a viewing platform.

Museums and galleries

  • The Louvre (1st). One of the finest museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture. Be prepared to walk as this is a fairly large facility and has many rooms to view.
  • Musée d'Orsay (7th). Home to the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914) - Impressionists, post-Impressionists, and the rest...
  • Centre Georges Pompidou (4th). the great museum of modern art, the building an attraction in itself...
  • Jacquemart-Andre Museum (8th). Private collection of French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion... Official website
  • Picasso Museum (3rd). Contains the master's own collections.
  • Rodin Museum (7th). His personal collection and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden.
  • Delacroix. National museum housed in the home of painter Eugene Delacroix.
  • Invalides (7th). Museum of arms and armor from the Middle Ages to today.
  • Carnavalet (3rd). [[12]] Museum of Paris history; exhibitions are permanent and free. Noted for its collection of French Revolution artifacts, such as David's famous painting Serment du Jeu de Paume. Has Proust's bed and the dauphin's room in the prison tower diarama. Located in the Marais.
  • Cluny (5th). Paris's medieval museum, housed in a part roman, part medieval building. Entry is now free of charge.
  • Le Musée de l'AP-HP (5th). Paris's medical history.
  • Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs (1st). Showcasing eight centuries of French savoir faire.

Do

  • Indie Music in Paris [13] A blog in English with monthly venue listings, band and concert reviews.
  • Bike About Tours [14] offers an insiders look at the 'city of light' with local, English-speaking guides who have lived in Paris for years. This small bike tour company gives 3 tours everyday at 10am, 3pm, & 7pm from the Chalemagne statue in front of Notre Dame Cathedral. They stay away from the touristy Paris and show you the 'real' Paris.
  • Paris from above (9th). Check out the skyline from the roofs of Printemps, the Galeries Lafayette. There's also a hot air balloon at Parc André Citroën (south-western Paris). It doesn't operate on windy days, though.
  • Ô Chateau, Paris Wine Tasting [15] (11th). Discover French Wines variety and specificity with a native French Sommelier. Informative, relaxing and fun. In English in a beautiful parisian loft.
  • Vedettes de Paris, sightseeing cruises [16] (7th). Discover Paris by river on a chic boat.
  • cooking class (http://www.cooknwithclass.com/) HANDS-ON French Cooking Classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including; Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre.
  • Context Paris [17] A network of scholars and specialists (architects, writers, historians, etc.) who lead small-group walking tours of Paris and excursions to other parts of France. A leader in sustainable travel, Context invests heavily in preservation initiatives in Paris and the six other cities where it operates.


Events

  • Techno parade. During mid-September DJs and (usually young) fans from across Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc. culminating in a parade whose route traces roughly from Pl. de Bastille to the Sorbonne.
  • Inline Skating [18] and [19] Every Friday night and Sunday afternoon (except when raining) hordes of inline skaters take to the streets of Paris on a preplanned route, for about 3.5 hours. The trip is speedy; you will have to negotiate some real slopes. You must be good at skating if you want to join.Even if you don't participate, find a cafe near the route and watch them fly by.
  • Bastille Day falls on July 14th and celebrates the beginning of the French revolution. The day in particular falls on the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille prison by Parisians. Paris hosts several spectacular events on the day.
    • Bastille Parade - The parade is held on the Champs-Élysées at 10:00 AM.The entire street will be crowded with spectators so arrive early.
    • Bastille Day Fireworks An exceptional treat to travellers lucky enough to be in town on Bastille Day is the fireworks display. The Office du Tourisme et des Congress de Paris recommends gathering around the gardens of the Eiffel Tower.
  • JANUARY

Maison & Objet [20] France’s furniture and interiors trade fair

  • FEBRUARY

Six Nations Rugby [21] The annual rugby tournament brings together France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Italy.

  • MARCH

Fashion Week [22] Women’s pret-a-porter collections for the following winter, summer collections follow in October.

  • MAY

French Tennis Open [23] Over two weeks , starting on the last Sunday in May, the world’s top players battle it out on a clay court.

  • JUNE

Rendez-vous au Jardin Open doors for many parisian gardens.

La Gay Pride 30th of june.

Fête de la Musique [24] Paris celebrates the summer solstice (21st June) with this city-wide free musical knees-up.

  • JULY

Bastille Day, see above

Cinema en Plein Air [25] The annual outdoor cinema event takes place at the Parc de la Villette, on Europe’s largest inflatable screen.

Paris Plage [26] This now notorious event sees an artificial beach set up on the banks of the Seine for 6 weeks over summer. Urban family fun.

Tour de France This cycling race is held every year in July. It's route varies annually, however it always finishes on the last Sunday of July under the Arc de Triomphe.

  • AUGUST

Rock en Seine [27] On the last full weekend in August, this world-class fest reunites international rock stars.

  • SEPTEMBER

Jazz à la Villette [28] The biggest names in contemporary jazz from around the world at Paris' annual jazz festival.

  • OCTOBER

Nuit Blanche [29] On the first Saturday of October Paris is transformed into a moonlit theme-park for this arty all-nighter.

Fashion Week [30] Women’s pret-a-porter collections for the following summer; winter collections are presented in March.

Movies

The Cinémas of Paris are (or at least should be) the envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some older cult films like say, What's new Pussycat or Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you wish.

Many non-French movies are subtitled (called "version originale" or "v/o"). Still it's probably a good idea to be sure of a movie having subtitles if your French is not adequate to follow fast conversations.

There are any number of ways to find out what's playing, but the most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find at newstands for 0.40€. Meanwhile there are innumerable online guides one of which is www.allocine.fr, which has information on "every" cinema in Paris.

Be aware that most of the movies shown in France are dubbed to french. Some shows may have french subtitles.

Buy

Paris is of course one of the great fashion centers of the Western world, up there with New York, London, and Milan, making it a great place to do clothes shopping. For the high end, the area around Place Vendome is known for its jewelery shops as e.g. Cartier. Rue de Rivoli from Louvre to Place de la Concorde has a number of sophisticated shops. And of course you shouldn't miss Gallerie Lafayette and Le Printemps (both in the 2nd close to the Operahouse) and BHV which you can find in the Le Marais district in the 4th near the Hotel de Ville. Owing to the its history of as a mostly Jewish neighborhood most of the shops in much of Le Marais are open on Sundays.

Flea Markets

Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the central city. The most famous of these is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt) (Clignancourt Flea Market) , Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the 18th, a haven for lovers of antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion.

Musical Instruments

Rue de Rome, situated near Gare St. Lazare, is crowded with luthiers, brass and woodwind makers, piano sellers, and sheet music stores. Subway station Europe.

Eat

Paris is one of Europe's culinary centers. The restaurant trade began here just over 220 years ago as of this writing, and continues to thrive. It may however come as a surprise that Paris isn't considered the culinary capitol of France, rather some people prefer the French cooking found in small rural restaurants, outside of the city, closer to the farms and with their focus on freshness and regional specialties. Even amongst French cities, Paris has long been considered by some people as second to Lyon for fine dining.

There have been other challenges in the last 20 years or so as restauranteers in places like San Francisco and Sydney briefly surpassed their Parisian forebearers, again with an emphasis on freshness of ingredients but also borrowings from other cuisines. Parisian cooks didn't just rest on their laurels during this time, rather they traveled, taught, and studied, and together with Paris's own immigrant communities have revitalized the restaurant trade. Today you can find hundreds of beautiful restaurants with thoughtful (or just trendy) interior design and well-planned and executed cartes and menus offering a creative mélange of French and exotic foreign cuisines. It's safe to say that Paris is once again catching up with or edging ahead of its Anglophone rivals.

Of course there are also some traditional offerings, and for the budget conscious there are hundreds of traditional bistros, with their sidewalk terraces offering a choice fairly simple (usually meat centered) meals for reasonable prices.

For the uninitiated it is unfortunately possible to have a uniformly poor dining experience during a stay in Paris, mainly because many attractions are situated in upscale areas of town, and that mass tourism attracts price gougers. It is frequent to hear of people complaining of very high Parisian prices for poor food and poor service - because they always tried to eat close to major tourist magnets. Try to go eat where the locals eat.

Many restaurants are tiny and have tables close together - square meters are at a premium and understandably restauranteers need to make the most of limited space. In some cases, when the restaurant is crowded, you may have to sit besides strangers at the same table. If you disagree to it, go to a more upscale place where you will pay for increased room.

Trendy restaurants often require reservations weeks, if not months in advance. If you haven't planned far enough ahead, try to get a reservation for lunch which is generally easier and less expensive.

For an easy-to-manage eating budget while in Paris, consider: breakfast or "petit dejeuner" at a restaurant, possibly in your hotel, consisting of some croissants, coffee, and maybe a piece of fruit (this typically costs around $5 to $10 depending on the area). Get a 'walking lunch' from one of Paris' many food stands--a panino in the center of the city, a crepe from a crepe stand, a falafel pita or take-out Chinese in the Marais. Traiteurs serving Chinese food are ubiquitous in the city and good for a cheap lunch and many patisseries sell inexpensive coffee and sandwiches. All these are cheap (about the same as breakfast), easy, and allow you to maximize your sightseeing and walking time while enjoying delicious local or ethnic food. For dinner, stroll the streets at dusk and consider a 20-to-40-Euro prix-fixe menu. This will get you 3 or 4 courses, possibly with wine, and an unhurried, candlelit, magical European evening. If you alternate days like this with low-budget, self-guided eating (picnicking, snacking, street food) you will be satisfied without breaking the bank.

If one of the aims of your trip to Paris is to indulge in its fine dining, though, the most cost-effective way to do this is to make the main meal of your day lunch. Virtually all restaurants offer a good prix-fixe deal. By complementing this with a bakery breakfast and a light self-catered dinner, you will be able to experience the best of Parisian food and still stick to a budget.

Self catering

Budget travelers will be very pleased with the range and quality of products on offer at the open air markets (e.g. the biggest one on Boul Richard Lenoir (near the Bastille), Rue Mouffetard, Place Buci, Place de la Madeleine and over the Canal Saint-Martin in the 11th or in any other arrondissement). If your accommodation has cooking facilities you're set, especially for wine and cheese: a decent bottle of French wine will set you back all of about €3-€5, while the very good stuff starts at around €7. Bottles for less than €3 are not recommended. Keep in mind, that the small épiceries which open until late are more expensive than the supermarchés ( Casino, Monoprix, Franprix, etc.) For wine, the price difference can be up to €2.

Recommendation: Buy a baguette, some cheese and a good bottle of wine and join the Parisian youth for a pique-nique along the Seine (especially on the Île Saint-Louis) or along the Canal Saint-Martin. The finest food stores are Lafayette Gourmet in the Galeries Lafayette or La Grande Epicerie in the luxury department store Le Bon Marché. They are worth discovering. You will find a large variety of wines there, otherwise try wine stores such as Nicolas or Le Relais de Bacchus (all over the city), or why not some wine cellars. Some of them are real diamonds.

Some specialities

For seafood lovers, Paris is a great place to try moules frites (steamed mussels and French fries) (better in fall and winter), oysters, sea snails, and other delicacies. Meat specialties include venison (deer), boar, and other game (especially in the fall and winter hunting season), as well as French favourites such as lamb, veal, beef, and pork.

Do also try the french salads. Tasty and delicate.

Prices

Eating out in Paris can be expensive. A can of soda can cost €2.50 from some kiosks. It is recommended you buy a load from a supermarket and keep them in your hotel fridge. Don't expect to do Paris on the cheap, you can't! The only way is to eat French bread and water.

Fast food restaurants are often the best value in town and you should familiarise yourself with their location for when you want food late-night.

Kosher dining

Paris has the largest number of Kosher restaurants in any European city. Walk up and down Rue des Rosiers to see the variety and choices available from Israeli, Sushi, Italian and others.

Vegetarian dining

For vegetarians, eating traditional French food will require some improvisation, as it is heavily meat-based. For fast food and snacks, you can always find a vegetarian sandwich or pizza. Even a kebab shop can make you something with just cheese and salad, or perhaps falafel. Paris has several excellent vegetarian restaurants. Look for spots such as Aquarius and Piccolo Teatro in the 4th, and Le Grenier de Notre-Dame in the 5th, or La Victoire Suprême du Coeur in the 1st just to name a few. See the arrondissement pages for more listings.

There are also lots of Italian, Thai, Indian, and Mezo-american places where you will have little problem. In Rue des Rosiers (4th arrondissement) you can get delicious falafel in the many Jewish restaurants. Another place to look for falafel is on Rue Oberkampf (11th arrondissement). Take away falafel usually goes for 4€ or less.

Moroccan and Algerian cooking is common in Paris - vegetarian couscous is lovely. Another good option for vegetarians - are traiteurs, particularly around Ledru Rollin (down the road from Bastille) take away food where you can combine a range of different options such as pomme dauphinoise, dolmas, salads, vegetables, nice breads and cheeses and so on.

Lebanese restaurants and snack shops abound as well, offering a number of vegetarian mezze, or small plates. The stand-bys of course are hummas, falafel, and baba-ganouche (caviar d'aubergine). A good place to look for Lebanese is in the pedestrian zone around Les Halles and Beaubourg in the 1st and 4th.

Tourists and locals

When you are looking for a restaurant in Paris, be a little careful of those where the staff readily speak English. These restaurants are usually - but not always - geared towards tourists. It does make a difference in the staff's service and behaviour whether they expect you to return or not.

Sometimes the advertised fixed price tourist menus (€10-€15) are a good deal. If you're interested in the really good and more authentic stuff (and if you have learned some words of french) try one of the small bistro where the French go to during lunch time.

Drink

Each of Paris' 20 arrondissements has its own fair share of bars, cafés, taverns, but there are a some areas where various aspects of nightlife, or afternoon-life are concentrated, like the Bastille.

  • Canal St Martin Many cozy cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Canal St Martin in the 10th.
  • The Marais The Marais boasts a large number of trendier new bars mostly in the 4th and to a lesser extent the 3rd with a few old charmers tossed into the mix. A number of bars and restaurants in the Marais have a decidedly gay crowd, but are usually perfectly friendly to straights as well. Some seem to be more specifically aimed at up-and-coming hetero singles.
  • Bastille There is a very active nightlife zone just to the northeast of Place de Bastille centered around rue de Lappe, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (especially the amazing Club Barrio Latino) and rue de Charonne in the 11th. Many of the bars closest to Bastille have either a North, Central, or South American theme, with a couple of Aussie places mixed in for good measure, and as you continue up rue de Charonne the cafés have more of a traditionally French but grungy feeling.
  • Quartier Latin - Odeon If you're looking for the nouvelle vague style, student and intellectual atmosphere of Paris in the 60s and 70s, you'll find a lot of that (and more hip + chique) places in the quartier latin and between place Odeon and the Seine. The neighborhood is also home of many small artsy cinemas showing non-mainstream films and classics (check 'Pariscope' or 'l'officiel du spectacle' at any newspaper stand for the weekly programme).
  • Rue Mouffetard and environs The area in the 5th on the south side of the hill topped by the Panthéon has a little bit of everything for the nighthawk, from the classy cafés of Place de la Contrescarpe to an Irish-American dive bar just down the way to a hip, nearly hidden jazz café at the bottom of the hill.
  • Châtelet In some ways the Marais starts here in the 1st between Les Halles and Hôtel de Ville but with between all of the tourists and the venerable Jazz clubs on rue des Lombards the area deserves some special attention.
  • Montmartre You'll find any number of cozy cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Butte de Montmartre in the 18th, especially check out rue des Abesses near the Métro station of the same name.
  • Oberkampf-Ménilmontant If you are wondering where you can find the hipsters, then look no further. There are several clusters of grungy-hip bars all along rue Oberkampf in the 11th, and stretching well into the 20th up the hill on rue de Ménilmontant. It's almost like being in San Francisco's Haight-Fillmore district.
  • Rues des Dames-Batignolles Another good place to find the grungy-chic crowd is the northern end of the 17th around rue des Dames and rue de Batignolles, and if you decide you want something a little different Montmartre is just around the corner.
  • Port de Tolbiac This previously deserted stretch of the river Seine in the 13th was re-born as a center for nightlife (and Sunday-afternoon-life) a few years ago when an electronic music cooperative opened the Batofar. Nowadays there are a number of boats moored along the same quai, including a boat with a Caribbean theme, and one with an Indian restaurant.
  • Saint Germain des Prés Classic. This area boasts two of the most famous cafés in the world: Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, both catering to the tourists and the snobs who can afford their high prices. This part of the 6th is where the Parisien café scene really started, and there still are hundreds of places to pull up to a table, order a glass, and discuss Sartre deep into the evening.

For individual bar listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around.

Of course there are lots of interesting places which are sort of off on their own outside of these clusters, including a few like the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz which are not to be missed in a serious roundup of Parisian drinking, so check out the listings even in those arrondissements we haven't mentioned above.

Some nightclubs in Paris that are worth it: Folies Pigalle (pl. Pigalle, 18th, very trash, famous for its after, 20 euros), Rex Club (near one of the oldest cinema on earth, the Grand Rex, house/electro, about 15 euros cheap). You might also want to try Cabaret (Palais Royal), Maison Blanche, le Baron (M Alma-Marceau). Remember when going out to dress the part -- you are in Paris! Torn clothing and sneakers are not accepted. The better you look the most likely you will get past the random decisions of club bouncers. Also important to remember if male (or in a group of guys) that it will be more difficult to enter clubs, try to always have an equal male/female ratio.

Sleep

Generally one should be aware that Paris hotels, almost without regard to category or price, observe high and low seasons. These differ slightly from one hotel to another, but usually the high season roughly corresponds to late spring and summer, and possibly a couple of weeks around the Christmas season.

Be aware that when a hotel is listed in any guide or website this will eventually make it a bit harder to get a room at that hotel. That means that you will probably need to book ahead for anything you read about here, especially in the high season. However, if they don't have a room they sometimes know another place close by that does have a room available.

When with two it can be a much better deal to find a hotel room than to get 2 hostel beds. More privacy for less money.

For individual hotel listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around.

For those who are staying for a while renting a furnished apartment might be a more comfortable and money-saving option, especially if you know how to cook. Furnished apartments differ considerably in quality, so it is important to choose carefully. There are a huge number of websites in the business of helping you find one, but most charge a steep commission of 10% or more. There are however a couple of considerably cheaper non-profit options which for whatever reason do not turn up near the top of a Google search:

  • Allô Logement Temporaire, 64, rue du Temple, +33 1 42 72 00 06. fax: +33 1 42 72 03 11. Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau This non-profit apartment placement association will place you in contact with an apartment owner, and provide translation service if necessary. They charge an annual fee of 50€ for renters, plus €35 per months you actually stay in Paris.
  • [31] Paris apartment rental agency. FeelParis offers a wide selection of Paris apartments for rent at good prices in the best districts. Visit our website and book your Paris apartment online
  • France Lodge Locations, 2 Rue Meissonier, +33 1 56 33 85 85, fax: +33 1 56 33 85 89. Métro: Le Peletier Another non-profit with very good rates but a smaller number of places. Book ahead. They charge a €15 annual membership fee.
  • Paris Apartment Rentals, 173 Rue Saint Honore, +33 6 09 09 35 44, fax: +1 415 276 1749. Métro: Louvre Palais Royal This privately-owned rental service has a wide-selection of both luxury and economy apartments in and around Paris. They also offer assistance arranging guided tours, private airport transfers, and entertainment.
  • *150 Accor hotels in Paris. The hotels Sofitel, Novotel, Mercure, Ibis, Formule 1 and Etaphotel in Paris (the latter can be very reasonable)
  • Vivre à la Parisienne, 23 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, +33 1 73 77 27 23. Métro: Louvre Rivoli Private Homes offer a collection of fully furnished apartments and B&B in central Paris for vacation, short or long term stays.

Learn

It should go without saying that Paris is a good place to learn French.

Alliance Francaise

Université Paris IV offers 'scholastic' as well as 'university' courses for foreigners in French language and culture, which start at various times of year.

Paris is the seat of a great variety of higher education establishments.

  • The American Library in Paris, 5 minutes walking distance from the Eiffel Tower. A great place to visit in Paris is the American Library, this is a non-profit institution entirely dependent on donations in order to keep its doors open. Visitors can purchase a day pass or other short term memberships. The Library has wifi and if you have your laptop then you can access the internet for no charge other than the day pass to use the library. It has excellent books, recent American magazines and the occasional celebrity patron.
  • École Normale de Musique de Paris


Work

Stay safe

Crimes

Crime in Paris is similar to most large cities, but violent crime is uncommon in the heart of the city. Pickpockets are active on the rail link (RER) from Charles de Gaulle airport to downtown Paris and on the number one metro (subway) line that cuts across the city center east to west servicing many of the major tourist sites. A common scheme is for one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbance while an accomplice picks pockets, a backpack or purse. Thieves often time their crime to coincide with the closing of the automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim secured on the departing train. Many thefts also occur at the major department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and Samaritaine) where tourists leave wallets, passports and credit cards on cashier counters during transactions.

Popular tourist sites are also popular hunting grounds for thieves who favour congested areas to mask their activities. The crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums and the area around the Sacre Cœur church in Montmartre are all favoured by pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves. The area around the famous Moulin Rouge is known as Pigalle and best avoided after dark unless with a tour group headed for a show. Pigalle is an adult entertainment area known for prostitutes, sex shows and drugs. Unsuspecting tourists often run up exorbitant bar bills and are forced to pay before being permitted to leave.

The Marché aux Puces (Les Puces) flea market is virtually designed to make pickpocketing easy and gangs can be witnessed spotting victims. Walkways are often crowded, narrow, dark, with no way out except to wait for the extraordinarily-slow walkers to move.

However, there are some areas, like Barbès (18th), where it's better not to hang around alone at night, but they are easily recognizable by their raunchiness. In these areas, a lot depends on the way you behave and if you know how to adapt to the situation. If you know what you are looking for, speak some French and feel comfortable, there is no problem to stroll around a neighborhood like Barbes. Meanwhile, if you are easily identifiable as a rich tourist who's lost in the quartier, better stay away. Also some parts of the banlieue are better to avoid, but the banlieue is, except for a very few tourists spots (Fontainebleau, Versailles, Basilique de St. Denis) not a place where the normal tourist will go anyway.

The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets do work in the stations and on the trains especially near tourist destinations. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it's closed tightly. If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand on it while entering or exiting the trains. Don't carry any more cash than you can afford to lose. Keep your cash on different parts of your body: some in your money belt, some in your purse/wallet, some in your shoe. Keep the contents of your purse/wallet to the bare essentials: money, one debit/credit card, I.D., emergency contact information, medical I.D. When you have to access your money belt, do so in private.

Recent news reports have highlighted new tactics by thieves, targeting taxis on their way into the city from Charles de Gaulle airport. Thieves wait for the taxi to be stopped in the usual traffic jam along the A1 highway and break windows to get to the passengers' bags. To avoid this, you may place your bags in the trunk of the taxi or take the very safe Air France shuttle.

Beware also of distraught-looking women and children asking if you can speak English. You'll be presented with a card or letter with a story explaining something like "My mother is in hospital in another country terminally ill. I'm stuck in Paris with no money and I need to visit her." You´ll encounter them at the major train stations (such as Paris Nord) and also at most major tourist attractions. Even on the Champs-Élysées. They are also prevelant around the Arc de Triumphe near the Embassy of Qatar.

Some Parisian restaurants, particularly in the tourist-laden Latin Quarter, make a living ripping off tourists who are hampered by a language barrier. When ordering, particularly if ordering a "menu" or prix-fixe meal, point to the actual menu item and ensure you repeat the price. Eye contact works wonders, as does a modicum of conversational French. If the bill does not conform to what you order, complain and leave the restaurant without paying if this does not work.

Be aware that there are hefty fines for littering in Paris.

Since 2007, it is strictly forbidden to smoke in close areas (train stations, subway stations, buildings), and since 1 Jan 2008, it is forbidden to smoke in restaurants and bars.

Stay healthy

Respect

Paris has, in many respects, an atmosphere closer to that of New York than to that of London, Lyon, or any other European town; that is, hurried, and businesslike. Parisians have, in France, a reputation for being rude and arrogant.

However, Parisians' abrupt exteriors will rapidly evaporate if you display some basic courtesies. A simple "Bonjour, Madame" when entering a shop, for example, or "'Excusez-moi"' when trying to get someone's attention, or very important; say Pardon if you bump into someone accidentally or make other mistakes, will transform the surliest shop assistant into a smiling helper or the grumpiest inhabitant to an helpful citizen. Courtesy is extremely important in France (where the worst insult is to call someone "mal élevé", or "badly brought up"). If you know some French, try it! The French love it if you try!

Like city dwellers everywhere, Parisians generally expect people to speak in a measured voice when in a crowded place. They are likely to look down on people who talk very loudly in a train or subway car. Keep in mind that the people around you in the Métro are not on vacation, in general: they are going to or coming back from work and thus may not appreciate another source of headache.

Also bear in mind that the vast majority of the Parisian population are not in any way related to the tourism business. You are not in a resort or theme park, with paid personnel meant to give you directions around, but in a city where people have to get on with their lives. But if you ask politely, any French will help you if they can.

Contact

One helpful thing about having official and numbered districts in Paris is that you can easily tell which arrondissement an address is in by its postal code, and can easily come up with the postal code for a Paris adress if you know its arrondissement. The rule is just prepend 750 or 7500 to the front of the arrondissement number, with 75001 being the postal code for the 1st and 75011 being the postal code for the 11th, and so on.

Cope

Get out

  • Chartres - the 12th century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the highlights of Gothic architecture
  • Versailles - on the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV's magnificent palace
  • Saint Denis - on the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French royalty
  • Chantilly - wonderful 17th century palace and gardens (and the birthplace of whipped cream)
  • Giverny - the inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet are but a day-trip away
  • Disneyland Resort Paris - in the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, to the east of Paris, from where it can be reached by car, train, or bus
  • Parc Astérix - north of Paris




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