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Paris

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France : Île-de-France : Paris
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Paris is the cosmopolitan capital of France and - with 2 million people living in the center and some 10 million people in the suburbs (la banlieue) - one of the largest cities in Europe (12 million total). Paris, located in the north of the country on the river Seine, the "City of Light", has the reputation of being one of the most beautiful and romantic of all cities, brimming with historical associations and still vastly influential in the realms of art, fashion, food and design.

The Eiffel Tower, Paris

Understand

Geography

History

Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité. It takes its present name from the name of the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe in the region, the Parisii.

People

Parisians have the reputation (deserved or otherwise) of being more brusque (or even downright rude!!) and business-like than other French people - this is in keeping with the fact that it is a very big city, however, and so perhaps allowances should be made. A few words in French, even to start a conversation, can go a long way to smoothing the feathers of proud Parisians.

Districts

Central Paris is officially divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20 in a clockwise spiral from the centre of town. Arrondissements are named according to their number. You might, for example, stay in the "5th", which would be written as 5ème (SANK-ee-emm) in French. The 12th and 16th arrondissements include large suburban parks, the Bois de Vincennes, and the Bois de Boulogne respectively. Additionally the newer skyscraper district La Défense is also an official district of Paris.

The very best cheap pocket map you can get for Paris is called "Paris Pratique par Arrondissement" which you can buy at any news stand. It makes navigating the city easy, so much so that one can imagine that the introduction of such map-books might be part of what made the arrondissement concept so popular in the first place.

Each arrondissement has its own unique character and selection of attractions for the traveller:

The Layout of Paris by district
  • 1st (1er), (Map). the geographical centre of Paris and a great starting point for travellers. The Louvre Museum, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place Vendôme, Les Halles and Palais Royal are all to be found here.
  • 2nd (2ème), (Map). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange) and the Bibliothèque Nationale are located here.
  • 3rd (3ème), (Map). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservitoire des Arts et Métiers, the northern, quieter part of the Marais
  • 4th (4ème), (Map). Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Hôtel de Ville (Paris town hall), Beaubourg, le Marais (gay Paris)
  • 5th (5ème), (Map). Jardin des Plantes, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Le Panthéon
  • 6th (6ème), (Map). Jardin du Luxembourg, Saint-Germain de Prés
  • 7th (7ème), (Map). Tour Eiffel, Les Invalides, Musée d'Orsay
  • 8th (8ème), (Map). Champs-Elysées, the Palais de l'Elysée, la Madeleine
  • 9th (9ème). Opéra Garnier, Grand Magasins
  • 10th (10ème). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est
  • 11th (11ème). the bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter
  • 12th (12ème). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade plantée, Quartier d'Aligre, Gare de Lyon, the Bois de Vincennes
  • 13th (13ème). Quartier Chinois, Place d'Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF)
  • 14th (14ème). Montparnasse Cemetery, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris
  • 15th (15ème). Monparnasse Tower, Gare Montparnasse, Stadiums
  • 16th (16ème). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l'Homme, the Bois de Bologne
  • 17th (17ème). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy
  • 18th (18ème). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès
  • 19th (19ème). Museum of Science and Industry, Parc de la Villette, Bassin de la Villette, Parc des Buttes Chaumont
  • 20th (20ème). Père Lachaise Cemetery
  • La Defense. The skyscraper district on the western edge of town.

Beyond central Paris, the outlying suburbs are called le banlieue. They are generally more peaceful than the city, and those to the west of Paris (Neuilly, Boulogne, Saint Cloud, Levallois) have the reputation of being the most desirable.

Get in

By car

Several autoroutes link Paris with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. Not surprisingly traffic jams are significantly worse during French school holidays. Online visual traffic information is available at http://www.sytadin.equipement.gouv.fr/.

The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the Périphérique, is probably preferable to driving through the center. Another beltway nearing completion La Francilienne loops around Paris about 10 km further out from the Périphérique.

By train

There are several stations serving Paris. You will probably want to know in advance at which station your train is arriving, as so to better choose a hotel and plan for transport within the city.

  • Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium and the Netherlands (Thalys), and the United Kingdom (Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe.
  • Gare Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare d'Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and southwest of France, Spain and Portugal.
  • Gare de l'Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de l'Est - trains to and from Eastern Europe
  • Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern France: Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne and Italy.
  • Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare - trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie
  • Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenue - TGV and regular trains to and from the west and south-west of France (Brest, Nantes, Bordeaux and Spain)

The SNCF (French national railway authority) operates practically all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to London and the Thalys to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands and Germany. There are also a few local lines of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website is very convenient to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are significant discounts if you book early. To get the best rates you should book at least four weeks ahead. Surprisingly, round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%.

There a a number of different kinds of high speed and normal trains:

  • TER Regional trains and normal day or night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These are the trains you'll find yourself on if you have a Eurorail pass, and don't want to pay extra for reservations.
  • TGV [1] - the world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run several times a day to the Southeast Nice and Avignon, the East Geneva or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon, the Southwest Bordeaux, the West Rennes and the North Lille. Eurostar to London and Thalys to Brussels use the same equipment.
  • Thalys [2] - a high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands and Belgium - it can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains
  • Eurostar [3] - the Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London Waterloo International currently averages at 2 hours 40 minutes and will decrease even further with new tracks being laid up to 2007.

By bus

  • Eurolines

By plane

Paris is served by three international airports - for more information, including arrival/departure times, check the official sites:

  • Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy CDG), to the north-east of the city at the northern terminus of the RER-B line. [4] There is also a TGV stop on the line from Paris to Brussels. CDG is one of the major hub airports of Europe.
  • Orly International Airport, to the south-west of the city, and served by a southern branch of the RER-B line [5]. This older international airport is used mainly by Air France for national lines, and other international carriers in Europe.
  • Beauvais, the airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the Métro, at Porte Maillot station. [6] This smaller regional airport is used by some low-cost carriers, such as RyanAir. (This airline operates coaches which will bring you to Porte Maillot for 10€ one way or 20€ return (as of November 2004). In good traffic conditions the jouney will take one hour.)

In addition to public transport, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (10€ - 12€), Orly and Paris (7.5€) and between the two airports (15€).

You should not discount the time it takes you to reach the city itself. For CDG this means roughly an hour via train (RER) to Metro Chatelet; the price is 8.30€. Orly is roughly forty minutes via the OrlyBus, which departs from Metro Denfert-Rochereau; the price is 5.80€.

Get around

Métro

Paris has an excellent subway train system, known as the Métro. There are 14 lines (lignes) on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes between 5am and 1.30am, stoping at all stations on the line. In addition there are 5 express lines called RER A, B, C, D, E. They can be used within Paris with a regular subway ticket. RER trains run at intervals of about 6 - 7 minutes, and stop at every station within Paris.

A single ticket cost 1.40€; for shorter visits a carnet of ten tickets can be bought for 10.50€ at any station, that will bring the price per ticket down to 1.05€.

If you're staying a bit longer it might be interesting to get a Carte Orange Hebdomadaire (1 week pass, 15.4€ for Paris and inner suburbs) or Mensuelle (1 month pass). For the Carte Orange you need one small photograph -- you can use a photomat in a larger métro station or photocopy and trim your passport photo. Note that an Hebdomadaire (eb-DOH-ma-DAYR: in French you don't pronounce the H) starts on Mondays and a Mensuelle on the first of the month.

The Carte Orange is also valid in the Noctambus, the night bus, where tickets normally cost 2.70€. Women travellers should probably avoid taking the Noctambus on their own. Fortunately taxis are relatively cheap, especially at night, when there are no traffic jams to be expected.

RATP is responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). Current fares can be found at their website.

The lines are named according to the names of their terminal stations (those at the end of the line). If you ask the locals about directions they will answer something like : take the line toward "end station 1", change at "station", take the line toward "end station 2". The metro system has started implementing signs carrying line numbers, a color code, and N E S W directions. They are apparently ignored by the locals.

Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments, schools, places of worship etc.). Maps are located on the platform if the station has several exits or near the exit if there is only one.

Bicycle

Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using public transport. A few years ago Paris wasn't the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a lengthly bus and Métro strike. The city government has taken a number of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. The Paris bike network now counts over 150km of either unique or shared lanes for the cyclist.

You can find an excellent map of the bike network called Plan des itinéraires cyclables at the information center in the Hôtel de Ville.

Bikes can be rented in from numerous private vendors, but the best deal is available from Roue Libre, a joint project of the Mayor's office and the RATP. In addition to operating a number of bike rental busses, they have some permanent locations, including:

  • Roue Libre Les Halles, [7]. 1 passage Mondétour (face au 120 rue Rambuteau), Métro: Les Halles. : +33 8 10 44 15 34. Opening hours from 9 am until 7 pm. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€20), Monday to Friday (€15), a working day (€6), or one day in the weekend (€12).
  • Roue Libre Bastille, [8]. 37, boulevard Bourdon, Métro: Bastille. +33 1 44 54 19 29. Opening hours from 9 am until 7 pm. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€20), Monday to Friday (€15), a working day (€6), or one day in the weekend (€12).

See

One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights of Paris is with the Carte Musées et Monuments [9], a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and comes in 1-day (€15), 3-day (€30) and 5-day (€45) denominations. The card allows you to jump otherwise sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most special exhibitions.

Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket counters close 30 - 45 minutes before final closing.

All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month.

These listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see if you can during your visit to Paris. The complete listings are found on each individual district page (follow the link in parenthesis).

Landmarks

  • the Eiffel Tower (Tour d'Eiffel) (7th). One of the most famous (and tallest) landmarks in the world.
  • Père-Lachaise Cemetery (20th). See the grave of Jim Morrison amongst many others.
  • Catacombs (6th). Used to store the exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery.
  • Arc de Triomphe (8th). The grave of the unknown soldier is under the arch.
Notre Dame de Paris
  • Notre Dame Cathedral (4th). Impressive Gothic cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo's novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame.
  • Sacré Coeur (18th). A church perched on top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the artists' area, in front are spectacular views of the whole city.
  • Sainte Chapelle (1st). Far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame.
  • Pantheon (5th). Underneath, the final resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic; above, a marvellous view of the city.
  • Chateau de Versailles (Versailles). On the outskirts of the city, the "must see" home of the Sun King Louis XIV.
  • Grand Arche de la Defense (La Defense). A modern office-building variant of the Arc de Triomphe. Has a viewing platform.

Museums and galleries

  • The Louvre (1st). One of the finest museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture through the ages.
  • Musée d'Orsay (7th). home to the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914) - Impressionists, post-Impressionists, and the rest...
  • Centre Georges Pompidou (4th). the great museum of modern art, the building an attraction in itself...
  • Picasso Museum (3rd). Contains the master's own collections.
  • Rodin Museum (7th). His personal collection and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden.

Do

  • Paris from above (9th). Check out the skyline from the roofs of Printemps, the Galleries Lafayette

Events

  • Techno parade. During mid-September a DJs and (usually young) fans from across Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc. culminating in a parade whose route traces roughly from Pl. de Bastille to the Sorbonne.

Movies

The Cinémas of Paris are (or at least should be) the envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some older cult films like say, What's new Pussycat or Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you wish.

Many non-French movies are subtitled (called "version originale" or "v/o"). Still it's probably a good idea to be sure of a movie having subtitles if your French is not adequate to follow fast conversations.

There are any number of ways to find out what's playing, but the most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find at newstands for 0.40€. Meanwhile there are innumerable online guides one of which is www.allocine.fr, which has information on "every" cinema in Paris.

Learn

It should go without saying that Paris is an excellent place to learn French. Université de Paris IV offers courses for foreigners in French language and culture, which start at various times of year.

Paris also has many universities, where you can learn about anything.

  • Université de Paris I-XIII: the various numbered universities specialize in different subjects.

There is also the parallel system of elite Grandes Ecoles, generally only available to those who pass through the gruelling system of concours, or competitive exams, which demand years of preparation.

Work

Eat

Dining in Paris can be a real treat, or can be surprisingly ordinary, so it's worth some effort to seek out the former rather than settling for the later. The restaurant trade began in Paris, but for some time now the focus of French cooking has been on little rural restaurants, closer to the farms and with their focus on freshness and regional specialties. Even amongst French cities Paris has long been considered second to Lyon for fine dining. For a complete discussion of French gastronomy see the Eat section of our article on France.

That said the Parisien restaurant trade is very much alive and well, and in fact experiencing a bit of a renaissance after having nearly been eclipsed by certain English-speaking cities (such as San Francisco, Sydney, and (the shame of it!) London during the 1990s. Today you can find hundreds of beautiful restaurants with thoughtful (or just trendy) interior design and well-planned and executed cartes and menus offering a creative mélange of French and exotic foreign cuisines. It's safe to say that Paris is once again catching up to if not passing its anglophone rivals.

Of course there are also some really fantastic traditional offerings, and for the budget conscious there are hundreds if not thousands of traditional bistros, with their sidewalk terraces offering a choice fairly simple (usually meat centered) meals for reasonable prices.

Self catering

Those travelers on a budget will be very please with the range and quality of products offered both at the open air markets (eg. over the Canal St. Martin in the 11th). If your accommodation has cooking facilities you're set, especially for wine which is not taxed: a decent bottle of French wine will set you back all of about 3-5€, while the good stuff starts at around 7€. Some wines in the 2-3€ are worthwhile but others pretty much guarantee a headache, so be careful with wines in that price range unless you are familiar with the particular vineyard.

Some specialities

For seafood lovers, Paris is a great place to try moules frites (steamed mussels and French fries), oysters, sea snails, and other delicacies. Meat specialties include venison (deer), boar, and other game (especially in the fall and winter hunting season), as well as French favorites such as lamb, veal, beef, and pork.

Vegetarian dining

For vegetarians, eating in traditional French restaurants will require some improvisation, though there are lots Italian, Thai, Indian, and Mezo-american places where you will have little problem. In Rue des Rosiers (4th arrondissement) it is possible to get delicious falafel in the many Jewish restaurants. Another falafel place is at 112 Rue Oberkampf (11th arrondissement). Take away falafel usually goes for 4€ or less.

Tourists and locals

When you are looking for a restaurant in Paris, be a little careful of those where the staff readily speak English. These restaurants are usually - but not always - geared towards tourists. It does make a difference in the staff's service and behaviour whether they expect you to return or not.

Drink

Each of Paris' 20 arrondissements has it's own fair share of bars, cafés, taverns, but there are a some areas where various aspects of nightlife, or afternoon-life are concentrated.

  • The Marais The Marais boasts a large number of trendier new bars mostly in the 4th and to a lesser extent the 3rd with a few old charmers tossed into the mix. A number of bars and restaurants in the Marais have a decidedly gay crowd, but are usually perfectly friendly to straights as well. Some seem to be more specifically aimed at up-and-coming hetero singles.
  • Bastille There is a very active nightlife zone just to the northeast of Place de Bastille centered around rue de Lappe and rue de Charonne in the 11th. Many of the bars closest to Bastille have either a North, Central, or South American theme, with a couple of Aussie places mixed in for good measure, and as you continue up rue de Charonne the cafés have more of a traditionally French but grungy feeling.
  • Rue Mouffetard and environs The area in the 5th on the south side of the hill topped by the Panthéon has a little bit of everything for the nighthawk, from the classy cafés of Place de la Contrescarpe to an Irish-American dive bar just down the way to a hip, nearly hidden jazz café at the bottom of the hill.
  • Châtelet In some ways the Marais starts here in the 1stbetween Les Halles and Hôtel de Ville but with between all of the tourists and the venerable Jazz clubs on rue des Lombards the area deserves some special attention.
  • Montmartre You'll find any number of cozy cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Butte de Montmartre in the 18th, especially check out rue des Abesses near the Métro station of the same name.
  • Oberkampf-Ménilmontant If you are wondering where you can find the hipsters, then look no further. There are several clusters of grungy-hip bars all along rue Oberkampf in the 11th, and stretching well into the 20th up the hill on rue de Ménilmontant. It's almost like being back in the lower Haight.
  • Dames-Batignolles Another good place to find the grungy-chic crowd is the northern end of the 17th around rue des Dames and rue de Batignolles, and if you decide you want something a little different Montmartre is just around the corner.
  • Port de Tolbiac This previously deserted stretch of the river Seine in the 13th was re-born as a center for nightlife (and Sunday-afternoon-life) a few years ago when an electronic music cooperative opened the Bat-O-Far. Nowadays there are a number of boats moored along the same quai, including a boat with a Caribbean theme, and one with an Indian restaurant.
  • Saint Germain de Près Classic. This part of the 6th is where the Parisien café scene really started, and there still are hundreds of places to pull up to a table, order a glass, and discuss Sartre deep into the evening.

For individual bar listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around.

Of course there are lots of interesting places which are sort of off on their own outside of these clusters, including a few like the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz which are not to be missed in a serious roundup of Parisien drinking, so check out the listings even in those arrondissements we haven't mentioned above.

Sleep

Generally one should be aware that Paris hotels, almost without regard to category or price, observe high and low seasons. These differ slightly from one hotel to another, but usually the high season roughly corresponds to late spring and summer, and possibly a couple of weeks around the Christmas season.

Be aware that when a hotel is listed in any guide or website this will eventually make it a bit harder to get a room at that hotel. That means that you will probably need to book ahead for anything you read about here, especially in the high season. However, if they don't have a room they sometimes know another place close by that does have a room available.

When with two it can be a much better deal to find a hotel room than to get 2 hostel beds. More privacy for less money.

For individual hotel listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around.

For those who are staying for a while renting a furnished apartment might be a more comfortable and money-saving option, especially if you know how to cook. Furnished apartments differ considerably in quality, so it is important to choose carefully. There are a huge number of websites in the business of helping you find one, but most charge a steep commission of 10% or more. There are however a couple of considerably cheaper non-profit options which for whatever reason do not turn up near the top of a Google search:

  • Allô Logement Temporaire, 64, rue du Temple, +33 1 42 72 00 06. fax: +33 1 42 72 03 11. Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau [10] This non-profit apartment placement association will place you in contact with an apartment owner, and provide translation service if necessary. They charge an annual fee of 50€ for renters, plus 35€ per months you actually stay in Paris.
  • France Lodge Locations, 2 Rue Meissonier, +33 1 56 33 85 85, fax: +33 1 56 33 85 89. Métro: Le Peletier [11] Another non-profit with very good rates but a smaller number of places. Book ahead. They charge a 15€ annual membership fee.

Buy

Paris is of course one of the great fashion centres of the Western world, up there with New York, London and Milan, making it a great place to do the clothes shopping.

Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the central city. The most famous of these is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt) (Clignancourt Flea Market) [12], Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the 18th, a haven for lovers of antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion.

Stay safe

Paris is in general a very safe city, certainly by North American standards; however, there are some areas, like Barbès (18th), where it's better not to hang around alone at night, but they are easily recognizable by their raunchiness. Also some parts of the banlieue are better to avoid.

The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets do work in the stations and on the trains. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it's closed tightly (all zipped up or whatever). If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand near it while exiting the trains.

Get out

  • Chartres. The 12th century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the highlights of Gothic architecture.
  • Disneyland Paris. The Disney corporation chose Paris as the site for their European theme park franchise. Disneyland Paris lies east of the city and can be reached via car, train, or bus.
  • Versailles - on the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV's magnificent palace
  • Saint Denis - on the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French royalty
  • Chantilly - the birthplace of whipped cream
  • Giverny - the inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet are but a day-trip away

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