Difference between revisions of "Olympos (Turkey)"
Revision as of 17:28, 2 July 2010
Ancient Lycian ruins, an isolated Mediterranean beach, accommodation in treehouses and flames that mysteriously burn from the side of a mountain are some of the attractions of Olympos (Olimpos) in Turkey's south.
A hippie haven until recently, the completion of a surfaced road from the main highway in summer 2009 means that there are many more people (including families with fussy children, and rowdy and drunk teenagers) heading there compared with only a few years past. In summer weekends when hordes of day- (and night-)trippers pour in, Olympos is sadly not much different from any ordinary resort town now. However, former habitués report that autumns when everyone else quits the scene, Olympos is just as beautiful as it used to be.
Olympos is about 50-60 km south of Antalya. Nearest major towns are Kumluca and Finike to the west and Kemer to the north of Olympos. There are minibuses from Antalya's otogar (main station for intercity buses). Buses from Antalya to Kaş (and all those others on the way west like Kumluca) stop at the junction on upland section of the main coastal highway of the region, which is about 10 km away from Olympos. There is a station at the junction with an open air cafe, which also offers some snacks. From there a dolmuş, which depart fairly frequent nowadays, can be caught.
The "town" area is a collection of backpacker guesthouses and hostels, particularly popular are the treehouse style bungalows. Follow the dusty road down past the end of the guesthouses and it leads to an ancient winding path, past the remains of ancient Greek ruins and down to the sparkling water. It's a pebble beach with absolutely no shade, so it's blisteringly hot to sit on and not very comfortable without thick padding, but the scenery is spectacular.
The ruins themselves are quite impressive, not as much so as Ephesus but still worth seeing. The relative lack of tourist traffic compared to Ephesus means the site is largely overgrown, which gives the place a "mystical" feel, so you have to do some hiking to get to some of the remains. I was there in late May and it was already brutally hot, so be prepared with lots of sunscreen and water.
Entering the ruins cost 3 TL/person, and going to the beach requires entering the ruins and the staff at the gate make no distinction between someone visiting the ruins and a beachgoer, so you'll have to pay this fee each time you're going to beach, except, of course, late at night and very early in the morning, when the office is unmanned. There is also the option of buying a weekly pass which costs 10 TL and gives unlimited access to the ruins, and thus the beach.
Bayrams has a lively social scene, with several resident Aussies tending bar. When it's fully dark you can take a bus up to Mount Olympos, with a 45 minute hike up to the Eternal Flames of the Chimera. These flames issue from natural gas jets in the side of the hill, which will self ignite if put out. These are the flames that inspired the Greek myth of Bellarophon and the Chimera. Ranging in size from small flickers to decent size campfires, they're quite interesting when you consider they've been burning for thousands of years.
Gulets cruising down the coast from Antalya stop at the beach to allow their passengers to wade ashore and visit the ruins or eat at one of the many beachside restaurants.
Olympos has no permanent bank, but a mobile satellite-connected cash dispenser has been sighted in summer.
There is an open-air restaurant named Muzo's on the path to beach, just after the ticket office, where you can have a cheese or spinach Turkish pancake (gözleme) for 3-4 TL while sitting on traditional Turkish lounges.
A supermarket open year round around 1km down the road from Kadir's sells alcohol for around 4YTL for a litre bottle of beer and 20YTL for a bottle of dodgy vodka.
Minibuses leave to the station on the main road every couple of hours. From there, dolmuşes go towards Antalya and Kaş (15 TL) every 30 minutes. It may be worth asking about buses direct to Fethiye if that is your destination.
There are also gulets that leave from Olympos going to Fethiye generally taking 4 days to get there.