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Naples

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For other places with the same name, see Naples (disambiguation).
Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius
Naples is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — have a look at each of them.

Naples [1] (Italian: Napoli, Neapolitan: Napule), in Italy, is the capital of the Campania region. The city is the third most populated municipality (city proper) of Italy, but the second metropolitan area, after Milan. It was founded between the 7th and 6th centuries BC by the Greeks and was named Neapolis, which means new city. The historic centre of Naples has earned the UNESCO World Heritage Site denomination. It has one of the biggest historical city centres in the world, and its pride are the 448 historical and monumental churches, the highest number in the World for a single city.

Sure, the city has a bad reputation concerning the Mafia, trash crisis (the worst is actually over) and some parts of the city are impoverished, but if you look even further than that and by excersising a bit of caution, you will find a vibrant city with plenty to see and do, a city where the large influx of tourists like in Rome, Venice, Florence etc... have not happened (for now) and have thus allowed the city to retain much of its original culture, allowing you to visit a hidden gem just 2 hours south of Rome. Its territory, particularly the iconic sight of the gulf of Naples (but also Mount Vesuvius, the music, etc. ) is arguably one of the most powerful symbolic images of Italy.

Districts

Naples used to be divided into 30 quartieri (neighbourhoods), however today these neighbourhoods don't hold much administrative use but are still used by locals to refer to parts of the city. Nowadays the city is divided into 10 municipalities. However this page will divide Naples into 5 districts and regions on the point of view of the traveller.

Central Naples

Naples' regions on the point of view of the traveller
Centro Storico (Historic Centre)
A labyrinth of history built in several layers of one period over the other and Naples prime tourist attraction. With excellent pizzerias, barouque churches, underground greco-roman ruins, famous streets like Spaccanapoli with shops selling traditional Neapolitan nativity figures, mozzarella, costumes and souvenirs and a vibrant night-life and atmosphere makes this free-of-charge living museum a must see among the must sees of Naples.
Agnano
A volcanic crater famed and favoured by the Romans and the Greeks for its hot springs, now one of the centers of Neapolitan fun with one of the city's largest discos and one of the biggest sporting centres of Naples. Also to be found within the area are thermal baths, ruins of Roman baths, la Grotta del Cane a mofetta and home to numerous vulcanic phenomenons and the Astroni crater a WWF oasis.
Posillipo and Chiaia
With Roman ruins both on land and underwater, the famous view of Naples, a walk by the sea with dark blue water contrasting with seagulls perched on white skerries, Norman castle Castel dell'Ovo, barouque churches, palaces and gardens make this one of Naples' most charming destinations.
Arenella and Vomero
A nice neighbourhood dotted with trees, more churches and castles and villas.
San Carlo all'Arena
Nice neighbourhood with piazze a graveyard and the largest monumental palace of Naples, the Ospedale L'Albergo Reale dei Poveri (Bourbon Hospice for the Poor).

Outskirts

Zona Industriale (Industrial Area)
Centro direzionale
The business section in the city, filled mostly by skyskrapers designed by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange. The largest cluster of skyskrapers in southern Europe.
Pianura
Soccavo
Northern Naples
Western Naples

Understand

Both Naples and the locally Italian Napoli are acceptable; either way, it's a derivative of the ancient Greek name Neapolis, which means new city. The Greeks first established the city and inhabited the region long before Roman times.

The most widely spoken language in Naples is Italian or a mixture of Italian and Napulitano (Neapolitan). Neapolitan is sometimes described as an Italian dialect, but may be considered a separate and sometimes unintelligible language. Neapolitan does not enjoy any official status, but it does have a rich literary tradition and it is still thriving in Campania and adjacent parts of Lazio, Abruzzo, Basilicata, Molise and Calabria. This said, the official language of Naples (as of all of Italy) is Italian and everyone speaks it. Neapolitan has strong Spanish and French influences originating from their occupation of the area. Therefore, more Spanish and French words are understood by the locals than in other parts of Italy. English is the most commonly spoken foreign language, although the average knowledge of English is far from excellent.

Get in

By plane

Naples is served by Naples Airport, also known as Capodichino Airport (IATA: NAP) [2]. Works are underway, but for the moment the airport it is not served by any rail system.

From the airport you can take a bus for €3 (called Alibus: [3]) which has two stops only: Stazione Centrale (Central station) and Piazza Municipio, near the main ferry port (molo Beverello). You can buy your ticket on the bus. Further connections are listed on this page of the official website of the airport: [4]. Some notes: The Alibus ticket is €4 if you buy it from the driver on the bus. Save €1 by purchasing it in the airport or at the Stazione Centrale from one of the shops. Note also that the Stazione Centrale stop is not right outside the train station - it's about 200m or so down Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. It's difficult/impossible to see the stop from the station because of construction barriers. Exit the train station by the McDonalds, cross the street (Corso Novara) and head down the unnamed pedestrian street that parallels Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi (avoid the folks selling questionably obtained iPads). The bus stop will be on your left.

If you have time to spare, you can take the 3S bus that will take you to the same stops as the Alibus for a cheaper price. The difference is that the Alibus has limited stops but the 3S will take you to the backstreets leading to the Stazione continuing all the way to the port and a shopping district. Also, the Alibus is airconditioned whereas most 3S buses are not.

Beware of illegal, unauthorized taxis and of anyone who may approach you directly. Authorized taxis are clearly visible at the exit; fixed fares exist for a number of destinations, and must be clearly shown in the cab. Make sure they are before getting on the cab and threaten to call the police ("polizia") should the taxi driver try to push back.

As an alternative, to avoid any inconvenience on arrival you can book a private transfer online upfront. There is a couple of companies, which offer this service, such as:

  • Naples Airport Transfer English Speaking Drivers and Air Conditioned Cars
  • Easy Private Taxi has Naples Airport to Naples at €38 for a Mercedes E class, €48 for a minivan
  • Airport Transfers has Naples Airport to Naples at £46.71 for a sedan, £82.02 for a people carrier
  • 123Transfers has Naples Airport to Naples at €49.28 for a Mercedes E class, €61.60 for a minivan

By train

The main station is Napoli Centrale - Piazza Garibaldi Station, connected to the Naples subway system. The buses R2 or 601 from the Piazza Garibaldi in front of the train station will take you within three blocks of the ferries at Stazione Marittima. Other stations include Mergellina, a magnificent Art Déco building and Campi Flegrei. The costs of trains from / to Rome vary a lot, ranging from a 10.50€ 3-hour regional train to 1-hour 10-minute high speed FrecciaRossa starting at 29€ [5]. The new high speed train Italo [6] (provided by the private company NTV) offers competitive prices (booking in advance the price can be just 19€).

By boat

Cruise ships dock at Stazione Marittima, a large terminal located right in the city center, near Piazza Municipio.

  • Tirrenia Navigazione [8] operates an overnight ferry service that has two separate routes, one to Sardinia (Cagliari) and the other to Sicily (Palermo).

By car

Naples is directly connected with Rome by the A1 highway, and the trip takes generally less than 2 hours. Due to traffic jam and parking shortage in city center, it's advisable to leave your car in a parking lot near the motorway exit or your accommodation, and to use public transportation

By bus

Many national and international private bus services operate in Naples, generally stopping at Piazza Garibaldi or Piazza Municipio.


Get around

Be forewarned: Traffic in Naples may be extremely heavy, just to compare: very similiar to New York's. Traffic around the train station is nuts. Before attempting to cross the street, observe the locals. The idea is to spot a gap in the traffic and start across and hopefully people will stop.

There are several ways to see Naples and the surrounding area. These include by taxi, train/subway, bus.

Taxis are the quickest way to see Naples, but also the most expensive. Before getting into a taxi, make sure it is licensed. Licensed taxis will have a city crest on the door and a taxi number. Also, make sure it has a meter. By law, licensed taxis must display a list of pre-agreed fares in a number of languages (Italian, English, French, German, Spanish). Check the presence of such fares and agree to them before starting the journey.

You will be surprised how easily you can get around by foot, too. Interesting spots are almost on every corner and most distances – especially in the (historic) centre – are small and can easily be walked in a matter of minutes.

By public transportation on land

It is fairly difficult to get a clear picture of the public transportation system in Naples, since different lines are operated by different companies. Nonetheless, one can buy a daily pass for € 3,60 valid on all vehicles. With a € 1,20 ticket, instead, you can travel for 90 minutes on as many lines as you want (Bus, subway, funicolare). This pass is under the Unico Campania [9] banner which has great integrated maps of the various lines in the city on their website.


  • Metropolitana di Napoli [10]. There are three lines of underground subway in Naples. Many subway stations are regarded as fine examples of contemporary architecture and artistic urban decoration, being part of the Stazioni dell'Arte project. They are generally safer than the other public transport, because they are always monitored by cameras and security officers. But the subway does not run frequently, so do not rely on it if you are in a hurry. The most important ones:
  • Linea 1, built recently, connects the city center to the hill quarters, like Vomero and the hospitals area.
  • Linea 2, much older, connects the three main train stations to Pozzuoli. The tracks are shared with the ordinary railway
  • Linea 6, a new light subway connecting Fuorigrotta to Mergellina.
  • Funicolare[11]. The subway company also operates four cable cars: three of them connect the city center to Vomero, the last connects Mergellina to Posillipo.
  • Trams [12]. ANM operates two tram lines (1 and 4), of which one goes along the shore of Santa Lucia - Castelnuovo - Garibaldi (Central Station).
  • Buses [13]. ANM also operated all bus lines within Naples, most of which are circular. Naples suffers from a serious problem of traffic jam and usually buses are overcrowded, so if you can (unless in the evening or on the weekend) try to avoid them. Another point to note is that unlike in Rome, tickets are not sold on buses. The bus company assigns staff to check if a passenger has a ticket. The staff members are notorious for targeting at tourists who are unfamiliar with the ticket-selling system. Once they see the tourists get into a bus, they will ask to see a ticket. No matter how much you explain, they will insist on getting your passport first and then requiring you to pay a penalty of 41.2 Euro. If you do not pay, they will threaten to call the police. Again, if you can, try to avoid taking a bus.

There are three different regional train services that operate in Naples and the surrounding areas. They are listed here:

  • Circumvesuviana. The Circumvesuviana railway operates from the lower level of the main train station at Piazza Garibaldi and has various routes that service the local Naples area. One route goes from Naples to Sorrento with several stops in between, including Pompei Scavi (Pompeii) and Ercolano (Herculaneum). A second route travels around Vesuvius. Other routes go to Acerra and Nola-Baiano. The Circumvesuviana website [14] has more information on timings, routes and cost of tickets.
  • Cumana. This railline that operates from Montesanto in Naples and follows the coastline for approximately 20 km before ending in Torregaveta (Bacoli). The Cumana runs the urban centres of Montesanto, Fuorigrotta, Bagnoli, Pozzuoli, Arco Felice, Baia, Fusaro before reaching Torregaveta.
  • Circumflegrea. This railline also starts in Montesanto and ends in Torregaveta. However, it runs along the western edge of Naples through the districts Soccavo, Pianurat, Quarto Flegreo, Licola and Cuma. It also approximately seven kilometers longer than the Cumana. because the Cumana and Circumflegra start and end in the same places one can quickly transfer from one train to the other. Both services are owned and operated by the same company and more information can be found at the S.E.P.S.A website [15].
  • Regional Trains. In Addition to the aforementioned trains, Trenitalia operates regional trains from Naples to Salerno.

By ferry/hydrofoil

There are several ferry/hydrofoil services that connect Naples and local ports/islands. Ferry and hydrofoil services leave from either Molo Beverello, Mergellina or Pozzuoli. Some then of them are listed here:

  • Metro del Mare [16] has several lines that connect Naples and Sapri; Bacoli and Salerno and Sorrento; Monti di Procida and Salerno; and, Amalfi and Sapri. Besides the main stops the ferry service also connects many smaller communities. The Metro di Mare webpage has schedules, timetables and location of ticket counters.
  • L.N.G. [17] has a hydrofoil service that connects Naples with the island of Capri, along with Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. Schedules and timings can be found on its website.
  • AliLauro [18] has a hydrofoil service that connects Naples with the islands of Ponza, Ventotene, Prochida, Ischia, Capri and Eolie, and the towns of Formia, Castellamare, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Salerno. Alilauro operates from both the Molo Beverello and Mergelina.
  • L.N.P. [19] operates both hydrofoil and boats lines. It connects Naples with Sorrento and has other lines connecting Capri, Sorrento, Castellamare, Salerno, AMalfi and Positano. Schedule and timings can be downloaded from the L.N.P. website.

Just a note: the ferries to Capri can be over rough seas. Get on a ferry with an outside deck, take gravol or something similar before you sail. Nothing like being on a boat for 70 min surrounded by people who are vomiting to get your day off to a bad start.

See

Castel dell'Ovo
Castel Nuovo or Maschio Angioino
the Royal Palace from Piazza del Plebiscito

In Naples, some may find the actual conditions of many buildings and streets, and the rampant graffiti, off-putting. Others claim this is "the immense character and culture of Napoli...and even the dirt and grime has its own flavor...a Neapolitan recipe for reality, and great fun". Naples' peculiarity is that the city centre is not the elegant part of the city. Just do not expect in the city centre the pristine conditions of many other major European cities, since the historical centre, unlike most European cities, is not the "downtown". If you want to visit the elegant part of the city, you can walk around the wonderful lungomare (the Riviera di Chiaia or Via Francesco Caracciolo), and visit Via dei Mille and Vomero hill (main shopping areas).

Most sites in Campania (including Pompeii) accept the Campania Card for tourists (free entry). Some cards also include a pass for the local public transportation.

Note: Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte, Castel Sant'Elmo, the Certosa and Museum of San Martino and the museum Duca di Martina can be visited FREE of cost until 31 May 2011 (timing restrictions might apply) [20]

  • Castel dell'Ovo at Porto Santa Lucia Naples' known port with the Egg Castle on a small peninsula. The castle currently houses the Museum of Prehistory.
  • Castelnuovo (Maschio Angioino) A huge medieval castle at the shore which houses the main city museum featuring various collections, but most importantly a picture gallery (with focus on 19th Century Italian painting). From the roof, you can get one of the best views of the city.
  • Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte [21]- Napolitan National Gallery, a must-see! Displays the Burgia, Farnese and Borbon collections with mainly Renaissance and Baroque Italian painting. Among the famous artists on display: Caravaggio, Tizian, Giovanni Bellini, Annibale Caracci, de Ribera and Giordano. A beautiful park surrounds the museum.
  • Museo Archeologico Nazionale [22]- It is the biggest roman architectural museum in the World, even bigger than the National Museum of Rome. Its collection is astonishing both considering the quality and the quantity of the objects on display. Naples Archeological Museum houses wall paintings and different objects removed from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other excavation sites in the area. In addition, you can admire the Farnese collection of Roman sculptures (including the famous sculptures of the Caracala Baths). €9.00 for admission. European citizens pay € 6.5, children get in for free. If you are a EU-citizen, under 25 or over 60, you can get in for the reduced price of €3.25. There is also an audio guide available talking about the statue collection on the first floor, however most of the amazing artifacts such as original Roman murals of mostly Greek mythologies are not covered. All descriptions of the exhibits are in English and in Italian. It is a must-see, an incredible collection of artifacts. The Museum also contains the well signposted "secret room" containing the erotic sculptures, paintings and murals from Pompeii.
  • View of Mergellina (from via Orazio or via Petrarca)
  • Certosa di San Martino A Carthusian monastery at the top of a hill near the city centre. It houses the Museum of City History [23].
  • Parco Virgiliano A nice park with a stunning view of the surrounding area. It is about half an hour off the city centre, but certainly worth the effort! Not to be confused with the Park in which Virgil's Tomb is found.
  • Piazza del Gesù and Piazza S.Domenico Maggiore The New Jesuite Church is among the most extravagant Baroque churches in the world! Across the street you will find the Santa Chiara Monastery [24]. It is worth a visit for its beautiful garden decorated with frescos and coulorful columns. If you continue towards S. Domenico Square you will pass by the St Angelo on the Nile Church with its Donatello's altar. The Sansevero Chapel nearby is also well known for its marble sculptures of veiled figures.
  • Napoli Sotterranea [25] Underneath San Lorenzo Maggiore medieval church.You can witness the remains of the Roman city. The tunnels served as shelters during WWII.
  • Castel Capuano
  • Castel Sant'Elmo
  • Catacombe di San Gennaro Medieval catacombs on Capodimonte hill.
  • Quadreria dei Girolamini [26] A beautiful small picture gallery mainly of Italian Baroque painting and some works of famous De Ribera. Free of charge and just across the street from the Duomo.
  • Duomo [27] Naples' main church with two luxurious chapels. Underneath it you can find excavation of a Roman site. Near the duomo you can find the St. Gennaro Treasury Museum, with arts exhibits from the duomo and another heavily frescoed chappel.
  • Pio Monte della Misericordia [28] A church and a picture gallery both belonging to an old charity organisation. The gallery mainly displays Napolitan Baroque paintings.
  • Teatro San Carlo [29] Naples' famous opera house.
  • Piazza del Plebiscito Naples' main square. Surrounding it you will find the Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale - open to tourists), the San Carlo Theatre and the Galleria Umberto.
  • Acquario - Villa Comunale A park near the shore with Europe's first public aquarium in its centre. Nearby is the Cortes Museum of Applied Arts. La Casina Pompeiana in the park is home to changing exhibitions focusing on photography.
  • Galleria Umberto A shopping passage from the 19th Century.
  • Villa Floridiana [30] Seat of Duca di Martina Museum of Ceramics and Marchese di Civitanova Museum of Carriages.
  • Museo Civico Filanghieri [31] Used to be a private collection mainly of applied arts.
  • Citta' della Scienza [32]
  • Museo d'Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina [33]
  • Pinacoteca della Accademia di Belle Arte [34] Mainly features 19th Century Italian painting.
  • PAN - Palazzo delle Arti di Napoli [35] Contemporary art.
  • Raccolta Mura - Museum of the Napolitan Song
  • Museo del corallo e del cammeo[36] Neapolitan typical jewellery
  • Museo del Mare (Naval Museum) [37]
  • Fondazione Pagliara
  • Piomonte di Pieta' in Palazzo Carafa A Manierist church and a picture gallery. Open only on weekends.
  • Textil and Clothing Museum Elena Aldorandini
  • Museum of Music History at the San Pietro a Maiella Conservatory. Exhibits important manuscripts of the Scarlatti family.
  • Grotta di Seiano An artificial cave underneath Posillipo. It leads to an ancient Greek theatre.

Do

  • Centro Sub Campi Flegrei, info@centrosubcampiflegrei.it, [38]. A 5*IDC diving centre offering diving and snorkelling in the Gulf of Naples, around the Phlegraean islands and within the underwater Archaeological Park of Baiae (the so-called submerged Pompeii!). Open all year.
  • accordi @ DISACCORDI Open Air Cinema Festival (info@accordiedisaccordi.com), Viale del Poggio di Capodimonte, +39 0815491838, [39]. 09:10 pm. If you are in Naples during summertime don't miss the chance to experience the cinema beneath the stars on warm nights in an amphiteatre equipped with one of the widest projection screens in Italy which rises having an artificial lake all around. These events really make people revive the movies each night of the festival! €4 per day. (40.86706°,14.239533°)
  • Urban Routes (booking@urban-routes.com), +393468471141, [40]. Bike sightseeing along old towm, Posillipo coast and Vomero panoramic quarter

Learn

Work

Buy

You can sustain shops and businesses that fight against racket (also called "pizzo") going shopping there.

Naples has vibrant markets and many small shops that sell everything from clothes to household appliances at prices much lower than in most of Western Europe.

  • Scriptura (Scriptura Leather Shop), Via San Sebastiano 22, 081299226. Mon-Fri 9:30 - 20:00, Sat Mon-Sat 9:30 - 13:00. Traditional leather shop selling Florentine leather goods. From full work/messenger bags to fit a range of laptop sizes through photo albums and diaries to wallets, glasses cases & belts. Friendly service. Accepts credit cards.


Eat

Pizza

The real Pizza Margherita!

Pizza comes from Naples. Look for pizza margherita, the original one, with nothing more than fresh tomatoes, basil, fresh mozzarella and a little olive oil. Eating a pizza in Florence or in Rome is not the same as eating it in Naples! Here the dough is thicker (than in Rome, for example) and is a little chewy.

In Naples every pizzeria makes a decent pizza. Some places display the label “Vera Pizza Napoletana” [“True Neapolitan Pizza”] with a Pulcinella mask baking a pizza in a stylized Vesuvio, which indicates that the pizzerria follows the standards of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana [True Neapolitan Pizza Association] [41].

If you want to try “the” authentic Neapolitan pizza, go to Pizzeria Brandi, where the pizza margherita was born (a stone is exposed outside the restaurant explaining the history of the first pizza). The pizza dough and tomato sauce are perhaps a little more delicate here than in other places, and it certainly offers a nice escape from the madness of the Quartieri Spagnoli or Centro Storico, but there is better pizza and far more reasonable prices to be found elsewhere in the city. And really, the “gritty” and irregular character of the dough in this town are what make Pizza Napoletana what it is!

Today the best choices would be Trianon or especially Da Michele. Both these pizzerias make authentic pizza Napoletana, but are located near Forcella, which some might not be comfortable walking around at night. In particular, Da Michele has a unique feature: they only do pizza Margherita or Marinara (just tomato, garlic and oregano, and a splash of oil, of course!). They say that these two kinds are the original pizza: if you add too much toppings you’ll lose the real taste of the pizza, which should be very simple, made only of a good, thin base, good tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. Note that there is usually a queue at these restaurants

Some other places that are very popular among the Neapolitans are almost all the pizzerias in Via dei Tribunali, in particular Di Matteo, Il Presidente [Dec 2013: closed?], Sorbillo, and his sister, a few doors away (informally known as “la vecchia” [the old lady], from the owner of the pizzeria, a very small place with only 4 or 5 tables, that looks like a pizzeria of 50 years ago — very hard to find, but it’s worth it!)

In general it is easy to find a good pizzeria, just look for one without tourists!

  • Da Michele. Via Cesare Sersale, 1–3 (Centro Storico). Get a numbered ticket from the waiter at the door when you arrive. Tel. 081 553 9204. http://damichele.net
  • Pizzeria Brandi. Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, 1–2 (just off via Chiaia on the end closer to Piazza del Plebiscito). Tel. 081 416928. http://brandi.it‎
  • Pizzeria di Matteo. Via dei Tribunali, 94. Tel. 081 455262. http://pizzeriadimatteo.com
  • Pizzeria Gastronomia Nennella (not to be confused with the trattoria of the same name) is your window to fantastic pizza in the buffer zone between Quartieri Spagnoli and Chiaia. Almost only locals eat here — or have their pizza delivered on a scooter — despite being just up the hill from via Chiaia. There is a table and two stool-chairs outside the window you receive your pizza from if you prefer to “eat in,” but in the early evening the local scooter culture can make dining on this corner somewhat unpleasant. Marinara for €2.50, margherita for €3. The ortolana bianca is fantastic here, and there are a few other excellent vegetarian options. Via Santa Caterina da Siena (Gradoni Chiaia) at Vico Mortelle.
  • Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo. Via dei Tribunali, 32. Also see the blog run by the owner, Accademia della Pizza[42], dedicated entirely to La Pizza Napoletana. Tel. 081 446643. http://sorbillo.it
  • Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro. Via P. Colletta 44/46 (Centro Storico, just in front of Da Michele). Tel. 081 553 9426. http://www.pizzeriatrianon.it

General Cuisine

Neapolitan cuisine in general features much seafood, befitting its status as an ancient and still functioning port. You will find many sauces based on garlic sauteed in extra-virgin olive oil, tomatoes, and local red wines. Some of the more popular sauces are arrabbiata (“angry”) or fra diavolo (“Brother Devil”), which means they will contain hot pepper. It’s great cuisine. Enjoy!

  • Hosteria Toledo offers antica cucina Napoletana in a friendly family-like environment. Excellent food and very tasty limoncello made by the chef. Vico Giardinetto, 78a (Quartieri Spagnoli, parallel to Via Toledo). Closed Tuesdays. Tel. 081 421257. http://hosteriatoledo.it
  • Nennella is a trattoria that is fairly calm for the lunch service but in the evenings becomes a full-blown theatre piece, giving what tourists think is the “authentic Italic dining experience.” Do not let yourself get seated inside unless you are completely desensitized to screaming, plate smashing and other forms of sonic violence. But can be great fun if you are in a group, perhaps not the ideal place for a first date. Tips go in a hanging metal bucket and provoke a hearty “GRAZIE!!!!!!” from the entire staff in chorus. Decent food at fantastic prices (which are indicated nowhere), e.g. half a litre of wine and two spaghetti al pomodoro for 11 EUR. Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 105 (Quartieri Spagnoli, 3rd parallel street to via Toledo). Tel. 081 414338.
  • Valù (same owner as Hosteria Toledo, almost next door) offers a great menu of different risotto dishes, with lots of vegetarian options, including pistacchio. Vico lungo del Gelso, 80 (Quartieri Spagnoli, parallel to Via Toledo). Closed Sundays. Tel. 081 038 1139. http://valu.it

Mozzarella is also typical of the region, you should not miss the opportunity to taste the fresh real one!

Sweets

The city and region are also famous for their pasticceria (pastries), including:

  • babà — found in virtually every caffe, bar and pasticceria in town
  • jaka pastiera — typical sweet of Easter (but found all year long), made of ricotta cheese melted with steamed corn and sugar, and then baked
  • sfogliatella — often filled with ricotta cheese (riccia) or cream with citrus flavor
  • roccocò and struffoli — typical Christmas sweets
  • zeppole

Pretty much anywhere that serves coffee will have some pastries, nutella-filled croissants or other sweets available. Among the best places to try these pastries are:

  • Pasticceria Scaturchio [43] offers old typical pastry of Naples. Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19 (just east of Piazza del Gesù). Tel. 081 551 7031.
  • Gran Bar Riviera has very good sweets, from zeppole to sfogliatelle passing through babà. Riviera di Chiaia, 181. Tel. 081 665 026.

Drink

Naples is becoming increasingly popular with a younger generation of both Italians and foreigners. In spite of false and stereotypical reports of adverse conditions, they flood into the city and lend renewed vitality to its nightlife. The hippest scene is around the bars and cafes on Piazza Bellini, Piazza Santa Maria la Nova and Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, becoming busy after about 11PM. You should also try the area around Piazza dei Martiri, expecially Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, where you can find many crowded bars, a winebar and lots of young people, expecially at weekends. If you want to venture to the outskirts of the city, there are many bars and clubs near the port and boardwalk (the 'Lungomare') of Pozzuoli.

Sleep

Accommodation in Naples is normally cheaper than in Rome or northern Italian cities, but quality may vary a lot. It's not uncommon to encounter hot water shortages, short power outages and less than luxurious bed and bath linens. Also don't expect a full-sized bathtub in reasonably priced hotels. You may not even get a shower stall in the bathroom, but a drain hole that is in the center of the bathroom with a toilet, a sink and a shower head along the plain tiled walls. Breakfast may include weak orange juice (tasting more like powdered orange drink), hard rolls and an assortment of hard meats and cheeses. Nothing mentioned here is meant to discourage, but to help you view your experience as an adventure in Italian culture.

Private Rooms/Guesthouses

  • Naples Private Accommodations, [44]. Over 250 rental options in Naples from private rooms to entire apartments starting at €19 a a night

Budget

  • B&B Spaccanapoli, Via San Biagio dei Librai, [45]. checkin: 1pm; checkout: 12pm. Recently renovated B&B located in a Pedestrian only area of central Naples. Common area with Cable TV, Equipped Kitchen for guest use. Free WiFi. Close to the Metro and walking distance to most major sights in Naples. €30.
  • B&B Naples, Via Pasquale Scura77, +39 0815529124 (fax: info@napolibandb.it), [46]. New rooms, comfortable, convenient to downtown Naples. Prices from 35 € single use. WI FI and DVDs.
  • Bed and Breakfast La Bouganville, Via Alessandro Manzoni 155, tel: +39 0817692205 Mob: 0039 3382227842 [47] info@labouganville.com The Bed & Breakfast La Bouganville (b&b) is located in the well - known Via Manzoni that connects two residential districts, Vomero and Posillipo.
  • Bed and Breakfast Donna Adelina , Piazza Nolana 13, tel: +39 0817692205 Mob: 0039 3381625405 donnadelina@hotmail.it [48] The Bed and Breakfast is situated in an old building near to the old city doors. Cool and comfortable, is good for everyone (travelers on budget, workers or couples!). All rooms have a private bathroom.
  • 6 Small Rooms Hostel & Guesthouse, Via Diodato Lioy 18, tel: +39 0817901378 info@6smallrooms.com [49]. A great hostel with private rooms right in the middle of the historical center of Naples. Clean, cozy and friendly. Cooking facilities, English speaking staff, DVDs, fridges, book exchange, tourist info and maps. It can be difficult to find, so give them a call.
  • Dei Decumani bed & breakfast Via Duomo n.187 - 80138 Napoli, phone/fax +39 081440648 [50]. One of the best bed and breakfast in Naples located right in the historical center of ancient Naples.
  • Giovanni's Home, Via della Sapienza 43, tel: +39 08119565641 info@giovannishome.com [51]. A great little hostel with 1 female dorm and 1 mixed dorm right in the middle of the historical center of Naples. Clean, cozy and friendly. Cooking facilities, English speaking staff, fridges, book exchange, very useful travel tips and maps.
  • Hostel of the Sun, Via Melisurgo 15, tel: +39 081 420 63 93 [52]. Newly refurbished hostel in the centre of town. Clean, friendly and conveniently located for the ferries. Open 24 hours with all facilities expected from a great modern hostel. Good kitchen, breakfast included, knowledgeable and multi-lingual staff, DVDs, satellite tv, small library, free Internet, etc. 7 Bed Dorm €18, double €55, ensuite double €70, triple €80, ensuite €90, quadruple €90.
  • Hotel San Giorgio Napoli [53] - Via Alessandro Poerio, 9 (Central Station) [54] - renovated 3 star hotel near the central railway station. 61 air-con rooms with colour SAT TV, fridge-bar, direct dial telephone, hairdryer.
  • Hotel Speranza, Via Palermo 31, tel: +39 081269286-99n, [55]. Has seen better days and not in the best neighbourhood, but it's clean, cheap, and close to the train station. €45 for a double room with bath.
  • La Terrazza Holidays House, SORRENTO, tel: +39 3383033219, [56]. Near Naples, in Sorrento is Holidays House La Terrazza. Gracious house on the Sorrento Hills that offers tranquillity and a wonderful sea view. Located at just 2 Km from the centre of Sorrento. Four-roomed apartment of 125 sq mt for up to 13 sleeps. Panoramic exclusive sun terrace of 70 sq mt with sun beds and sun umbrellas. Air conditioned, wi-fi, kitchen equipped, free car park.
  • Paradise Island Hostel, Ischia, via Castanito, 5, Casamicciola Terme, Ischia, Naples, (). checkin: 2 pm; checkout: 1 pm. Dorms start from 18 € per person and Private rooms from 25 €. This island beach hostel has just finished its first season as the brand new hostel on the main island of Naples, Ischia, “the world’s most beautiful thermal island”. Ischia is the most amazing and romantic island during the summer, but even during the winter when everywhere else is bogged in with snow and freezing water. In fact, to some people this island-wonderland just gets better during the “off-season” months.
  • Potenza Hotel, Piazza Garibaldi 120, tel: +39 081286330 [57] [58]. At just 5 minutes walking distance from the central station of Napoli.
  • Hostel Garibaldi Napoli (Hotel 3 Stars), Via P.S. Mancini, 11 3 Stars Hotel a short distance from Naples Central Station - Piazza Garibaldi (near Naples central Staion), +39 081 5630656 (, fax: +39 081 5631750), [59]. checkin: 11:00; checkout: 11:00. Budget Hotel

Mid-range

  • Hotel Bellini Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, 101, 80138 Napoli, Italy. Tel +39 081 451732. [60] Hotel Piazza Bellini is very conveniently located off the line 1 (yellow line) Dante metro station (line 1 now connects to Piazza Garibaldi / the central train station Napoli Centrale) and a short walk to Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo. Recent modern look, great breakfast, great front desk staff.
  • Hotel Eden Naples Italy Corso Novara, 9 - Naples - Italy Tel +39 815546666-285690 - Fax +39 81281983 EMail: info@hoteledennapoli.it [61] Hotel Eden is a new hotel, opened at the beginning of November 2005 after a massive, general reconstruction ideated by the architect Raffaele Zucchi , design engineer of the twin building Hotel Clarean
  • Hotel Clarean Naples Italy Piazza Garibaldi , 49 - Italy (NA) Tel. 0039/81/ 5535683 / 5634828 - Fax 0039/81/ 5634463 EMail: info@hotelclarean.it [62] a modern and trendy hotel, opened from september 2004 respecting the enviroment and every confort for the customers' satisfaction.
  • Hotel Europeo Via Mezzocannone 109, centro antico - Italy (NA) Tel. 081 551 72 54 [63] Reasonably priced hotel, make sure to book early as it literally can get booked out over night. Right in the heart of the historical center of Napoli. Most of the 27 rooms have telephone, free wireless internet, some satellite TV and are modern and clean, which is not given for all hotels in Naples. Very friendly, helpful and english speaking people there, too. Overall very nice place to be, which you wouldn't expect from the outside. Finding the entrance to this backyard hotel can be a little tricky. Coming from the Spaccanapoli follow Via Mezzocannone down for about 40 meters, entrance is right of a café – both inside a little patio.
  • Art Resort Galleria Umberto Napoli Galleria Umberto I , 83 - 80132 Napoli Tel.081.4976224 [64]. The art Resort galleria Umberto is a preciousness set into an Historical monument in the heart of Naples. A recent opening luxury 4 stars Hotel in the famous galleria Umberto I. Thought and furnished with a patrician house stile of the XIX century, The Art Resort is both a rarity to be discovered and a typical Neapolitan Baroque environment.
  • B&B La Corte, Via Cesare Battisti 30 Sant'Antimo (Naples) tel.+39 081 505198[65]. In old building is in the heart of the little town of Sant'Antimo, 10 km. from Naples. Run by an artist whose atelier is on the round floor. The rooms are autonomies, with private bathrooms, and air-conditioned. Doubles from €60.
  • Caravaggio Hotel Napoli Piazza Cardinale Sisto Riario Sforza n 157 Napoli Tel +39 081 2110066 [66]. Caravaggio Hotel is the only 4 Stars Hotel in the historical centre of Naples, located in the core of Naples; In the old neighbourhood, at few meters from the Duomo/Cathedral, the reliquary and the Treasure of San Gennaro, and San Gregorio Armeno. Metro lines are at 200 Mt. as well as the Archaeological Museum and the Museum MADRE.
  • Charming International Hotel, V. le Generale U. Maddalena 35/37, 80142 Napoli. This was first a farmhouse in the XIX century, but has recently been remodeled into the hotel that it is today. The locale is great, with only a 5 min walking distance from the Naples Airport. The hotel is closely connected to pretty much every area of touristy and business interest. The hotel is also only 8 km from the rail station, as well as 9 km from the seaport. There’s a minibus that comes around that will take you to Piazza del Municipio, where here you can visit all kinds of historic churches, monuments, museums, and other places of interest in Naples.
  • Hotel Cavour, Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 32 Central station area. The Hotel Cavour is a comfortable three star long-standing traditional hotel, renovated. Near the historical sites - Decumano Maggiore. It enjoys central position, garage at 20 mt., 93 rooms, 10 de luxe suites with air conditioned and minibar, all rooms with satellite tv, direct telephone dialling. Two restaurants serving delicious Neapolitan, regional and international dishes.
  • Hotel Cimarosa, Via Cimarosa, 29, +39 081.5567044, Fax: +39 081 5782852, [67]. The Hotel Cimarosa is an elegant hotel located on the hillside of the chic Vomero neighborhood, one of Naples' most fascinating districts, famous for the shopping streets, the Sant'Elmo Fortress, Villa Floridiana and many other important Naples' monuments.
  • Hotel Del Real Orto Botanico , Via Foria 192 Historical Centre. The Hotel Del Real Orto Botanico, situated a mere two kilometers from Capodichino Airport. The property is centrally located in an old building in front of the Real Orto Botanico. The hotel is a few steps to the Historical Center. http://www.hotelrealortobotanico.it/
  • Hotel Ideal, Piazza Garibaldi 99, +39 081 269237, Fax: +39 081 285942, [68]. Right near the central train station (about 100 meters). Hotel is clean and cheap, staff are friendly and helpful. Breakfast included.
  • Hotel Micalò Napoli, Riviera di Chiaia, 88 - 80122 Napoli, Tel. +39 081 7617131 [69]. Micalò is on the shores of the magical Bay of Naples, at the very heart of the historic city. Almost hidden on the 2nd floor of a 17th century palazzo, Micalò has been crafted out of the natural white stone of Southern Italy to create an atmosphere of calm, serene luxury.
  • Hotel Nesis Napoli, Via Nuova Agnano, 5 - 80125 Napoli Italy, Tel: +39 081 7620024, [70]. Four stars Hotel Naples, superior category, exceptional quality-price ratio, comfortable and soundproof rooms, satellite TV, internet, minibar, air conditioning. Rooms of superior quality compared to the 3 stars Hotels in Naples.
  • Hotel Nuovo Rebecchino, Corso Garibaldi, 356 - 80142 Napoli Tel. 081/553.53.27 [71]. The Hotel Nuovo Rebecchino is a three star hotel and one of the oldest in the city of Naples. Recently restored, it is fitted with every form of comfort. The tradition of hospitality, professionalism and focus placed on the client are the grounds on which the Gentile family has lovingly run this hotel for more than a century.
  • Hotel Prati, Via Cesare Rosaroll 4, Located in Piazza Principe Umberto, the town historical and commercial centre. The hotel is close to the airport and to the motoway turn-offs, is 200 m from the railway station and 1 km from the railway station and 1 km from Molo Beverello, 43 rooms, provided with bathroom, shower, telephone, central heating, bar and TV. Restaurant 70 seat dining-room. Staff speaks English, French, Spanish and German.
  • Hotel Splendid, Via Manzoni, 96, Tel. +39 081.7141955 Fax +39 081.7146431, [72]. Hotel Splendid in Posillipo alto is in Naples' hill famous for its wonderful view. Single, double and triple rooms are available equipped with Internet connection, TV, telephone, minibar and air conditioning.
  • Hotel Toledo Napoli, Via Montecalvario, 15 - 80134 Napoli. Tel/ Fax + 39 081 406800. [73]. Situated in an ancient three stories building dated 1725, with elevator, in the new modern style of furnishings. Hotel Toledo is in the center of Naples, close by department stores, offices, banks, and characteristic local markets. It is an excellent base for travel, with hydrofoils connections to : Capri, Ischia, Procida and Sorrento.
  • Le Chemineè Business hotel Napoli, Via Stadera 91, 80143 Napoli tel ; +39 081 5846651, [74]. Le Cheminée Business Hotel was restored and transformed in the building that originally housed the old "Stingo" ceramic factory and was active in Naples from as early as the end of the Nineteenth Century, into an elegant, very modern 4 star hotel with a notable leaning towards being a Business Hotel.
  • Phlegrean Fields Park [75] it's the better choice for a relaxing vacation or a cultural trip discovering the beautiful monuments of Naples and all around lands of Phlegrean Fields. Double Room from €50/night breakfast included.
  • Relais Villa Oteri, Via Miliscola 18, 80070 Bacoli (Napoli), +39 081 5234985 (), [76]. Double room from €75.
  • Tribù B&B, Via dei Tribunali, 329. Tel. +39 081 454793; 338409913, tribunapoli@katamail.com, [77]. Located in a quiet patio bang in the middle of bustling spaccanapoli, Naples' old town, this tasteful bed & breakfast also doubles as an arts showroom. Breakfast is served on a nice terrace by the couple of young architects that own the place. Rooms €60-100.
  • Hotel Garibaldi, Via P.S. Mancini, 11. Tel. +39 081 5630656, [78], [79]. Situated on the edge of the city centre and near the central station. Rooms are spacious and very clean. Staff is friendly. Prices begin from €60 for a double room with bathroom, sat-tv, save, aircon and breakfast (which is typical Italian).
  • Hotel Villa Capodimonte (Hotel Villa Capo di Monte), Salita Moiariello, 66 · 80131 Napoli, +39 081.459000 (), [80].

Splurge

  • Grand Hotel Santa Lucia, Via Partenope 46, [82].
  • Hotel Paradiso, Via Catullo 11, +39 081 2475111 (fax: +39 081 7613449). Located on a hill (Posipillo - Airport is 10 kilometers away which is around €30 by cab. €160 for a double room with a balcony.
  • Hotel Pinto Storey, Via G.Martucci, 72, +39 081.681260 (, fax: +39 081.667536), [83]. For a double room prices are from €110 on, depending on the season..
  • Portalba Relais, 33, Via Portalba - 80134 Naples, +39 081 5645171 (, fax: +39 081 5443703), [84]. B&B Portalba Relais in Naples it’s a true luxury bed & breakfast in the historic center of Naples.
  • Romeo Hotel, 45 Via Cristoforo Colombo, 0039 081 0175001 (), [85]. Five star luxury boutique hotel. Located on the waterfront in the historic center.

Stay safe

Naples has a divergent distribution of richness. Keep in mind that the city centre is not the "rich part" of the city, so the historical centre may be somehow gritty and in some parts impoverished. Naples' bad reputation regarding safety is mainly consequence of stereotypes, since the city's security level is actually comparable to any other European big city (Barcelona, Marseille, Amsterdam,...). The police and the Carabinieri fight the local mafia (Camorra) strongly. In any case, it posseses little to no threat to tourists, but petty thievery and muggings definitely happen, but yet again, it is no more other comparable European city. Be watchful, but not so much to ruin the magic of one of the most creative, unique and original city in the world. Of course, avoid empty streets and dimly-lit alleys at night and keep your wits about yourself. People in Naples are extremely nice and gentle, and often people are helped by Neapolitans to find some gorgeous attraction not shown in the tourist guide.

Whoever comes to Naples historical city centre has to take some generic precautions:

  • Do not leave valuables laying out in the open (such as bar tables) where they can be snatched by thieves.
  • Do not flash around money or other valuables.
  • It is advised not to carry a purse as it can be snatched or "picked" by thieves.
  • Do not wear too expensive watch (Rolex especially).
  • Do not wear expensive or flashy jewelery.
  • Do not use a costly camera or video camera.
  • Do not wander down small dark alleys/streets, especially in the Spanish Quarter.
  • Pay attention to fake public service vehicles.
  • Be careful around the main train station as there are many thieves in the area. The Piazza Garibaldi, the large square in front of the station, is no place to spend more time than necessary, especially at night.
  • In Naples, you can buy over-the-shoulder packs that are excellent, as they allow you to keep an eye and firm grip on your valuables.
  • Some people pretend to offer images of old Naples or others things, as gifts but, then, expect payment.
  • Pay attention to people who want to involve you in fake road accidents.
  • It is advisable not to wear football shirts of any club especially Juventus FC, AC Milan, Internazionale Milano, AS Roma, SS Lazio or Fiorentina. Neopolitans support SSC Napoli with big rivalries with those clubs.

Contact

  • Local Tourist Office [86] Via San Carlo, 9, phone +39081402394 | Piazza del Gesù, phone +390815512701


Cope

Get out

There is fast express train service to Rome and points north, as well as points south. Naples is the ultimate terminus for the FR7 line of the Rome commuter rail network, which runs from Roma Termini to Minturno-Scauri, Sessa Aurunca-Rocca or Naples. There are also local Italian Railway trains to Pompeii, but for such short distances, it is easiest to take the Circumvesuviana commuter train.

  • Caserta Royal Palace (Reggia di Caserta) Arguably the most beautiful royal palace in Europe, the Royal Palace of Caserta is a huge 18th-century palace and hunting lodge designed for the Bourbon Kings of Naples by late-Baroque architect, Luigi Vanvitelli. It beats Versailles almost in every criteria, be it in dimensions, in artistic relevance, in decorations and in park dimensions. The palace is surrounded by a magnificent, enormous park with lakes, rivers, statues, fountains and marvellous views. Just north of the Caserta train station, 40 minutes north of Naples. Open all year except holidays. Last entry at 15:30 in the winter months.
Ruins of Pompeii
  • Tour the excavations of Herculaneum and Pompeii nearby to the south of Naples. Pompeii is 40 minutes via the Circumvesuviana train (Sorrento line, here is the timetable [87]) from the Naples Central train station.
Vesuvius. Mount Vesuvius buried Herculaneum and Pompeii in 79AD.
  • From Pompeii, take a bus to Mount Vesuvius, and hike to the summit. Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano on the mainland of Europe.
  • Paestum, an hour and a half to the south, (near Salerno) is Italy's most famous Greek excavation site.
This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!





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