This relatively large area in the southwest of Mexico City has always been a counterculture hotbed. This is where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived, a few blocks away from Leon Trotsky (their houses are now the Frida Kahlo Museum and the Leon Trotsky Museum, respectively), and the tranquil residential area, with parks, squares, and cobblestone streets, is now a favourite spot for hippies, goths, musicians and artists.
The Coyoacán, Viveros, and Miguel Ángel de Quevedo metro stations are closest to the Coyoacán center.
In the rough center of Coyoacán there is a pair of large squares, Plaza Hidalgo and Jardín Centenario, which are the center for a lot of the activity in the area. On Saturdays and Sundays, there's an open-air market in the squares, mostly focusing on arts and crafts, clothes (a lot of tie-dye and t-shirts), piercings and tattoos (temporary or otherwise, but if you feel the urge to have some body art done, it's better to walk a few blocks to the south, to Dermafília, Mexico's best and most renowned body art studio, close to the corner of Carillo Puerto and Eje 10). With a bit of selectivity, and some haggling, you can pick up a lot of interesting things here, and none of them are horribly touristy or tacky. There are also impromptu African dance performances, Aztec dancers, fortunetellers, and lots more to see. The market square is surrounded by cafes and restaurants, as well as a small 16th century church. In the smaller streets nearby are even more cafes and restaurants, as well as stores selling antiques, clothes, crafts, and so on.
El Jarocho, corner of Caballocalco/Allende and Cuauhtémoc. M-Su. This is a very old, family-owned coffee roaster's shop. They have really good and cheap coffee, bad and cheap tortas (sandwiches in French bread), and reasonably standard donuts(american donuts). There are benches on the sidewalk just outside the Jarocho shops where you can sit to drink your coffee, or you can do like everyone else in Coyoacán and just stroll around the park with your Jarocho foam cup in your hand. On weekends, expect to wait in line to order your coffee. A long wait in line for coffee, a bag of fresh churros, and a conversation in Cuyoacan's plaza is an equcential Mexico City date. MXP 10-20.
Bizarro, Cuauhtémoc, (between Centenario and Aguayo). M-Su. A comfortable goth hangout. There is a really good bakery next door. MXP 30-100.
Café de la Selva, Plaza Hidalgo (next to the church atrium, at the back of the archway). M-Su. A perennial student hangout, also serving baguettes and cakes. MXP 50-100.
El Morral, Caballocalco (20 meters North of Plaza Hidalgo). M-Su. Very good Mexican food. Don't miss the chiles en nogada, large chiles stuffed with ground beef, raisins, and nuts, and covered with a nut cream sauce. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service can be a bit slow. MXP 100-300.
La Salamandra Otra Vez, corner of Caballocalco and Presidente Venustiano Carranza. M-Su. Pasta, good salads, and very good steaks. MXP 100-200.
Los Danzantes, Centro de Coyoacán (on the corner of the main market square in Coyoacan). M-Su. Somewhat pricy modern international cuisine twists on traditional Mexican dishes, excellent quality, and also bottle and sell their own brand of mezcál. Try the seafood-chilpotle chili soup, the goatcheese-filled chicken breast with chilpotle chili sauce, and, if you can afford the 200 peso price tag, the escamoles (ant eggs) sol azteca as a starter (small, but can be shared between two people). MXP250-500.
La Guadalupana, calle Higuera #14 (60 meters west of Plaza Hidalgo). M-Sa. Very good Mexican food. Good drinking with the locals The Coyotes Don't miss the Mole, Michele´s favorite or carne Tartara. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service is good , make friends with the Meseros; they are cool MXP 100-300.
Taro, Avenida Universidad (needs number) (a block and a half from Miguel Ángel de Quevedo, going towards the UNAM campus, across the street from the Novo bookstore and the Pasteur pharmacy). Thu-Tue. Probably the best Japanese food in Mexico City, owned by Japanese. Many Japanese people come here for lunch and dinner, so they attest to the authenticity of the meals --- you won't find maki rolls with cream cheese here. Don't miss their spicy octopus entrée and the ice-cream tempura for dessert. MXP 150-300.
Las Nieves de Coyoacán, Carrillo Puerto (across the street from Plaza Hidalgo, 30 meters from Jardín Centenario). M-Su. Some of the best sorbets in the city. Try the ones made from exotic fruits: guanábana, zapote, maracuya, tuna. The coconut-flavored paletas (popsicles) are also a treat. MXP 20-50.
Nieves el Tepozteco A few steps away from Las nieves de Coyoacán, features excellent flavors such as Beso de Angel (angel kiss) Mil Flores (thousand flowers) and spicy sorbets!
Street Food The main plaza, at different times of the year, might have street food vendors that sell extremely good flautas (long, deep fried tacos), as well as buñuelos (deep fried sugar-coated bread), esqimales, and elotes (corn with chile, mayonase, lime, and cheese) etc.
Bazar Casa del Coleccionista Francisco Sosa 1, corner with Tres Cruces Street. This place sells lots of vintage stuff, from china ware, toys, paintings, ornaments and more. Opens Mon-Sun.