Around 2005, an asphalt road came to M'Hamid so you can reach the village from Ouarzazate by virtually any car.
The main thing people come to M'Hamid are trips to desert, overnight or several das: by camel, 4x4, motor bike or a quad bike.
Camel trips and 4x4
Camel trips and 4x4 are provided by many outlets in the village.
Sahara Services, saharaservices.info, +212(61)77-67-66: customer-end intermediary for desert trips (both camel and 4x4) that is well connected with most of the local providers (and individual guides/car-owners?), but also seem to receive a huge part of price you pay. Don't confuse with many outlets in MHamid that also have a Sahara Services sign--use photo from their site as a reference or just call them.
Chiri Biri: A mid-level intermediary that Sahara Services works with (in turn, it contacts people actually performing the trip for the clients). Unlike their subcontractors, Chiri Biri asks for feedback on guide and food after your trip--presumably for improving subcontractors work. No contacts known so far.
Caravane Targala (aka Caravane Terguala); GSM +212-6784-3136 / 6278-1085: contact Razgui Mohamed. One of operators that does perform the trips for Chiri Biri and Sahara Services intermediaries. Operates 2-, 5- and 7-day tours.
Quad Bikes and Buggies
Quad Evasion quadevasionmaroc.com, +212(61)77-54-78 or +212(44)84-86-92, located 5km before M'Hamid. Seemingly the only provider for quad bikes and buggies rental--but is doing that professionally. Quad bikes are one-driver-a-time, while buggies are two-persons-at-once. Serves both 1- or 2-hour trips and multiple-day advanced tours.
For short trips: guide speaks only French, but his signs will be all you need. For multi-day trips: Dar Azawad seems to be a main partner for accomodation.
No rental available in the town, still every week several groups of enthusiasts come to ride bikes in a desert.
Markets on Mondays: vegetables and fruits brought from other regions by camels.
Besides that, nothing special--typical tourist shops selling mediocre carpets and usual stuff.
Dar Azawad darazawad.com; +212(24)84-87-30; located 5km before M'Hamid. No site in English, but key personnel speaks English good enough. Rooms are stylish imitations of berber tents and small kasbahs. Otherwise, package tour-style hotel: tourists in crisp clothes, not talking to each other; swimming pool as a center of entertainment; sleep-eat-swim-drink routine with little interest to the world outside the hotel. Overall, more European than Moroccan place, with local flavour found only in decor, slightly in the cuisine and in dutyfree-like souvenir shop. However, helpful hosts and daily cleaning in rooms.
There is also the legendary and very friendly Hotal Sahara run by the Naamani brothers, Habib and Hassan. It is basic but after a week on a camel even hot water is luxurious and they have Internet.
Begging children are unregulary numerous in the village, presumably thanks to many tourists arriving to spend large sums on 4x4s directly from the airport, hardly seen Moroccan realities elsewhere.