Difference between revisions of "Lycian Way"
Revision as of 17:28, 21 May 2014
Lycian Way is great, if sometimes a bit tiresome, to get a sense of true Mediterranean Turkey, away from crowded beaches, fancy resorts, and posh palm trees.
Both Fethiye and Antalya are well-connected to most cities in the country by inter-city buses. The nearest international airports are located at Dalaman for the western trailhead and at Antalya for eastern end.
It's fairly easy to get to western trailhead by minibuses (dolmuş, take those heading for Ölüdeniz, and get off just south of Ovacık/Hisarönü roundabout, at the large sign of 'Montana Resort Hotel') or even on foot from downtown Fethiye.
There are no fees or permits to be taken care of for hiking or camping along the Lycian Way. However, the Lycian way comes by several points of interest with an entrance fee.
Also, in the Eastern part of the trail, some touristic places are in the process of installing entrance booth to some local attraction in a way that makes them hard or impossible to skip, effectively acting as tolls. As of 02/2014, the lower Olympos ruins and the Çıralı-Ulupınar sections involve crossing a paid-for area.
Investigated and then waymarked by Kate Clow, a Britishwoman living in Turkey, with the help of a number of volunteers and Turkish Ministry of Culture in early 2000s, Lycian Way connects a number of villages, mountain hamlets, Lycian and Roman sites on its route and ranges from 0 m (sea level) to 1,800 m summit of Mt Tahtalı (known by the name Olympos in ancient times) at elevation. It's not a single footpath that has been intact since times immemorial, rather it's a collection of ancient paths, mule and caravan trails, forest and backcountry roads. For many sites, it's the most convenient way to get to, and still many others let themselves to be enjoyed only by those taking the effort to hike the trail.
Although there are some hikers doing the whole trail in one go, most people prefer to do it in sections, and in fact some sections are more popular than others. Some short sections of the trail near the major towns can even be regarded as a day trip. Most people walk the trail west to east, that is, from Fethiye towards Antalya and the waymarks are easier to follow in this direction.
Once littered, it is very hard to clean the trail up, as it mostly lies on a remote and rugged territory. Therefore, following leave-no-trace guidelines is important. Also, think ahead carefully about what you will need and what you won't, as anything that is regarded as "trash" will need to be carried to the nearest garbage bin - a convenience even some of the mountain hamlets completely lack, let alone the trail itself.
April-May and October-November is reported to be best to hike the trail, as it's warm (but not infernally hot unlike in summer!) and not rainy (unlike winter) during these months.
Most small villages featuring a “shop” will actually be selling overpriced snacks and drinks. Do not rely on them for proper meals. They do sell bread though, usually kept out of view (ask for “ekmek”, 1 Turkish lira a piece is a fair price).
Signs and waymarks
The standard waymark of Lycian Way is a half white, half red rectangle. There is no uniform distance between each mark along the route, when the trail start to twist and turn, they become more frequent and when the trail lies as a straight line, converting into an easily-visible path, then they become rarer. They are mostly painted on rocks along the route, though you can also spot some on utility poles, garden walls, or on the actual path itself.
Side paths straying from the main trail -and usually arriving in very off-the-beaten-path sites (in a literal sense!)- have marks similar to the standard rectangles, just yellow replaces white.
Other waymarks include a "turning" or an "S" rectangle (again half white, half red) with an arrow on, which mean there is a curve (or S-curves) coming ahead. They sometimes can be found immediately before the curve. There are also frequent "<" marks on the trail. These can be confusing if you interpret them as arrows, which they are not. They are instead meant to mimic the shape of the trail at that point. Therefore ">" mark would indicate that there is a switchback in the trail, NOT that you should go right. A "red cross" is marked on "wrong" trails and roads, usually accompanied by the standard rectangle painted on the "correct" way.
Many people have constructed rock cairns, piles of rocks, that supplement the red and white marks and are often the only indication of the route.
Once every five or so years, a number of volunteers replenish the waymarks. However, in the meantime some local villagers, at their all good will, repaint the marks on some sections and this may cause the new marks shifting a few (hundred) metres on either side of the actual trail. However, this is not a very big problem as the "new" marks will join the "old" marks somewhere in some way, so you will not get lost even by following these "accidentally" painted marks.
Signs, easily-recognizable, distinctive yellow arrows with the header Fethiye'den Antalya'ya Likya Yolu, i.e. Lycian Way Fethiye to Antalya, are nowhere as frequent as the waymarks, but still can be seen, and indeed are useful, on most junctions (where for example trail separates from a main road) and at village exits. They name the next destination on it with the distance in kilometres. Note the distances on signs are approximate, so don't worry if you see the distance going up or down by 1 km on the next sign.
You may consider bringing in:
While the official start of Lycian Way is in Ovacık, the northern suburb of Ölüdeniz, you can hike it all the way from Fethiye (about 15 km away from Ovacık, and the hub of the region) without having the need to referring to road sides with the help of adjoining trails.
Total distance: 8-9 km
Waymarked recently, a cobbled and wide medieval trail through a pine forest link Fethiye to Kayaköy, the "ghost town" on the hills, providing a quite easy hike between these locales, with the only hard (if it's summer and you are carrying a large backpack, that is) section being the first or so km out of Fethiye (ascenting and no shade). Some sections of this path is surfaced with tarmac though, so your peaceful walk will be intersected by the road a few times, but these sections are short fortunately.
The waymarks of this trail are sometimes yellow&red, suggesting that this is a side trail, while some other marks are white&red, meaning that this is the main trail. Yellow defaced with white and white defaced with yellow are also common. But no matter what, they are frequent and visible enough as not to let you get lost. Sign are headed with Likya Yolları rather than the usual Fethiye'den Antalya'ya Likya Yolu and Kayaköy is referred to as Kaya (Levissi) on signs.
From downtown Fethiye, start by following brown "Kayaköy" (sometimes "Kaya" or "Karmylassos") road signs. From the corner of the mosque, turn right (towards the hills/rock tombs), pass by the minibus stop (with minibuses heading for Kayaköy). Then you will come to a T-intersection, turn left and then about a couple of hundred metres later, right (look for the street sign saying "Kaya"). This will take you to the tarmac road out of Fethiye, heading for Kayaköy, after passing by a Lycian sarcophagus right in the middle of the road before you left built-up area. First the road follows the bottom of a valley, with rock tombs small and big carved on both sides. After having a bird's eye view of Fethiye to the right, the road will swing left, still ascending. After passing by a few cottages on the left, you will see the first sign of the trail with the arrow pointing left that reads "Kaya (Levissi) - 9 km". Follow the sign and cross into the forest beside the small stone bridge over a dry creekbed. If you miss this entry point, continue on the main tarmac road to Kaya winding left, until you come to a fountain with cold water on your right. This is another entry point to the trail (the sign will also show you the way): Refill your bottles here because this is the last fountain until Keçiler, about 6 km away. The path will start as a dirt road with loose pebbles scattered about. After a short ascent, and before the trail swings toward right, there is a beautiful view of the Gulf of Fethiye towards the left. You can rest here if you are tired already. After a hundred meters, the dirt rocky trail transitions to a cobbled path that gently ascends towards the hilltop. You will eventually intersect the Tarmac road, where you should turn left (south, up hill) and walk a few min to the 6km sign. After the 6 km mark, the trail comes to a T with the tarmac road. At this point the tarmac road splits into two, continue to the right. There is a small cemetery at this intersection that is not well marked, but can still be of interest. After keeping on the side of the road for about 1 km, and having the first distant view of the ghost town between the trees, there is a "Kaya (Levissi) - 5 km." It may look like it's showing the tarmac road, but it's NOT and is easy to miss! It's actually showing the (re)start of the good ol' cobbled path, not clearly visible at this point and not nearly as wide or as defined of a trail as the cobbled one you were walking on earlier. Follow the rocky path that leads down to the right, away from the tarmac road. The trail soon turns into the forest, while the road keeps lying straight. After a gentle descend into the forest, the path is once more intersected by the road. This time, there is no sign or nearby marks to show the way. From where you exited the forest, you'll need to go to the right about 20-30 meters and you will quickly see a rocky path, soon turning into a wide cobbled path, leading down to the right and down from the tarmac road. The trail will keep descending, and will cross the tarmac road again, at which found you need to walk a short ways to the right on the tarmac road and you will again see the wide cobbled path. The forest is then replaced with the first houses you see since leaving Fethiye. This is the village of Keçiler, nowadays a neighbourhood of Kayaköy and is 2 km away from Kayaköy. A coffeehouse will welcome you into the village, take the path to left at the crossroad in front of it. From this point on, you will walk on a flat dirt village road. Shortly, the road winds right and passes by two Lycian sarcophagi on the left and carved tombs behind them in the hillside as well as another sarcophagus on the right of the road. After this, you will, for the last time, join the tarmac road that descends from the hill to the left. This is the road that's following you since Fethiye. After walking on the side of it a little bit, you'll come to the village square with a large fountain on the left (very warm water!). You should take the straight road for Kayaköy, and a (fell as of July 2009) sign says the road to right leads to Afkule and Gemile (17 km, not accessible other than hiking). After a quick walk between some restaurants, you will arrive in the centre of Kayaköy. The ghost town should be seen seen along the hillside in front of you.
In Kayaköy, there are a number of guesthouses, restaurants, a grocery store (cash only; on the left of the road turning right in front of the church, ask for market, pronounced maar-cayt), and an old fountain. The water from the fountain doesn't taste wonderful but is drinkable as many people, even non-locals, drink from it with seemingly no problems. There is also a simple map of the village made of an illustration on the side of the road between the fountain and the church. Note that it's posted reversed: Anything that shows up on the right of the illustration is on the left of you and vice versa.
From Kayaköy, you have two different trails to choose from to get to the official trailhead of Lycian Way in Ovacık: the first takes you to the beach next to the Blue Lagoon at Ölüdeniz, the second takes you right to Ovacık over the hills. If you choose to take the route via the beach, then you will have to walk on the side of the ascending road with somewhat heavy traffic (in high season) between Ölüdeniz and Ovacık for about 3 km. You have, however, the option of taking a minibus (dolmuş) to avoid that section anyway.
The route via beach to Ölüdeniz
Total distance: about 6 km
This route is reported to be one of the easiest hikes in the region (always descending, after the brief initial ascent that pass over the hill behind Kayaköy) and can comfortably be taken in 2 hours. The trail is well marked with the usual red&white or red&yellow rectangles.
The route starts near the St Taksiarhis Church (Upper Church) in the centre of ghost town. The trail partially runs through pine forest and offers impressive views of the sea below and St Nicholas Island off shore. At one point the trail connects to the road next to the beach clubs and leads to Ölüdeniz. There is a path that allegedly begins at the southern edge of Ölüdeniz beach and connects with the main path, but reportedly it is very step and physically demanding. Better to catch the dolmuş from Ölüdeniz towards Ovacık, getting off at the Montana Pine Resort to start the trail at the official start. Ölüdeniz itself has a stunning beach, but is heavily overrun with British tourists, giving it a very touristic and resort feel.
The route that leads straight to Ovacık
Total distance: 7 km
The route begins at the St Taksiarhis Church (Upper Church) in the centre of ghost town, which is also the start of the trail to Ölüdeniz.
Total distance: about 6 km, elevation: 250 mt to 750 mt
Ovacık and the nearby Hisarönü are located on the major road between Fethiye and Ölüdeniz. They are both fairly developed resorts typical in the area. They have all kinds of tourism infrastructure: Lots of hotels and guesthouses, restaurants and bars, grocery stores which accept credit cards and which carry a large selection of foods and drinks.
The official start of Lycian Way lies east of the road connecting Ovacık with Ölüdeniz. From Hisarönü roundabout (north of Ölüdeniz), walk towards the direction of Ölüdeniz, and in about 1 km later, you'll see the first yellow sign of Lycian Way on the left of the road; or on the right side of the road 3 km uphill from the coast of Ölüdeniz. It says Kirme 10 km, and all signs on this section drop Kozağaç in favour of Kirme as the first settlement on the route. However, this small sign is obscured by the adjacent much bigger signs of Montana Resort Hotel (easily visible) and some other signboards informing about Lycian Way project erected by local charities.
For this section, take along at least 5 litres of water per each person as this is a hard walk almost always ascending with no descends or level grounds, there is almost no shade and there is no water source for 8 km straight on the route other than three rainwater cisterns with buckets recruited from old cooking oil tins. However, the cisterns are of no use unless you have purifying tablets or filters, as the water inside is full of mosquito larvae and stinks to high heaven. Take this note seriously before attempting the trail especially in summer.
After passing by the Montana Resort Hotel and a smaller guesthouse, the tarmac road gives way for a dirt (but still wide) forest track. You'll pass under the start sign of Lycian Way at this point. From this point on, all waymarks are the standard white&red.
Trail begins in a pine forest, but the trees will disappear eventually in favour of Mediterranean shrubland (the maquis) and the forest track will turn into a narrow footpath, sectionally cobbled but mostly covered with loose gravel. With some fantastic views of the Blue Lagoon to right, you'll start ascending along the trail which turns and twists on the side of the mountain. This mule trail was the only connection of the inhabitants of the hamlets of Kozağaç and Kirme to the rest of the world until 1983, when a much wider dirt road was bulldozed from the other side of the mountain. It's still rarely used by local shepherds and their flocks. Be extra careful in this section as there is shometimes literally nothing between you and cliffs metres high. There are also some forking trails that should not be taken, so watch out for those red crosses at the junctions. At some point of the trail, green/turquoise dots will join in, however, they are not the marks you should be following. They rather show the way for the trail climbing up from the Ölüdeniz beach direct to the summit of Mt. Babadağ (1,970 mt). The green dots will accompany white&red rectangles until near Kozağaç.
Along most of the length of this section, you'll occasionally hear screams and 'yippees'. Don't worry, no one is in trouble. Just look above and you'll see the paragliders flying from the summit of the mountain to the beach.
After a sometimes-heavy and shadeless ascent which may seem like it will last forever, and passing through the occasional gate carved into rocks blocking the trail, you'll arrive the last cistern and a large tree which offer lots of shade under which to rest. However, be careful about scorpions and other possibly dangerous arachnids in this area. At this point, you have taken about two-thirds of the trail to Kozağaç with about a third more to go. If your water has started to go low, start water saving measures: Drink only when you are really thirsty, drink only one or two gulps, and stop eating snacks. The first (drinkable) water source is in Kozağaç.
The trail once more starts ascending after the cistern. About 1 km away from Kozağaç, it will suddenly turn into level ground covered with larger gravel and some new constructions, including one looking like a fortress/castle with its large stone-covered towers will welcome you back to civilization here. The trail will afterwards join a wide dirt village road and after turning left while having the full sight of the village of Kozağaç, you'll arrive in the first fountain with very cold and good-tasting water to the left of the road. However, do not use soap in this fountain to avoid sud build-up as the long trough below the fountain is where local goats water. You can use soap, however, at the lower fountain coming from the trough as the waste water there goes directly down the drain.
The green dots will draw apart to their way near the fountain, but as mentioned, they are not the marks to be followed.
Distance: about 4 km, elevation: 750 mt to 650 mt
Kozağaç is a mountain hamlet with only a few houses sandwiched between the towering granite body that is the Mt. Babadağ above and the high cliffs of the Kıdrak Valley below. There is no accommodation or a shop to speak of in this hamlet. The hamlet lies, however, just under the way of paragliders.
The trail will start slowly descending at the exit of Kozağaç, at where you will pass by another fountain with cold water. After passing by the abandoned school building you'll arrive in a section covered with fine grey sand. This is the bed which a part of the mountain slided in an earthquake in 1957, and still tens of big rocks fall and some pass through that bed every day. About 100 metres after the grey sands, you'll pass next to a source of water. It's not easily visible as it's not a fountain really, only a blue hose with no sink or through, but according to locals, the tasty water there comes from the very summit of the mountain and has no chance of contamination. At this point, you'll enter a pine forest. Most guidebooks and maps speak of a shortcut immediately on the edge of the cliffs through the forest here, however, there were no waymarks in the forest as of July 2009, and the waymarks along the wide dirt road were persuasively sufficient that the Lycian Way lies on the road, at least at the moment. Though no matter whether the trail lies there or not, walk into the forest to the edge of the cliff to have a rest against a stunning view of Kıdrak Valley below, a much more grandiose version of the more famous Butterfly Valley (7-8 km further away on Lycian Way). The resort lying on the edge of the bottom of the valley is Club Lykia World.
After a short and gentle ascent, view of Kıdrak Valley will fade away soon, as well as the pine forest, and the dirt road will wind towards left. After passing by another abandoned school building and a fountain full of bees, you'll arrive in a junction. As the waymarks show you, take left into the village of Kirme. The other roads lead to Karaağaç, a village still higher in the mountains, and Ölüdeniz via Faralya (this is the road used nowadays by local people and vehicles to get to the villages of Kozağaç and Kirme).
Distance: about 4 km, elevation: 650 mt to 350 mt
Kirme, like Kozağaç, is a mountain hamlet with no accommodation or shops, but is slightly bigger than Kozağaç. The trail will immediately start twists and turns as soon as it enters the village, so watch the waymarks carefully. Look out for the yellow post pointing to Faralya (next to a sheltered seating area and water source) and head downhill. From this point on, you will always be descending until Faralya. After finding the right exit at the little maze between the garden walls in the village, you'll walk along a little valley with a dry creekbed in the middle and surrounded by fields and orchards. After passing two fountains in the valley, in addition to the one inside the village, you'll start quickly losing elevation towards Faralya on the side of a hill covered with shrubs. After climbing down some rocky terrain, with rocks lined like a gentle stair, you will suddenly arrive in a stream with a little waterfall which will welcome you to Faralya. Next to the waterfall is the hotel Die Wassermühle, converted from the old watermill of the village. You can quickly refresh yourself with the water, however still keep adhering to leave-no-trace guidelines as the stream forms the waterfalls in the Butterfly Valley below and once more used by travellers there.
Distance: 8 km
Faralya is the village on the cliffs above the Butterfly Valley. This is the first village on Lycian Way since Ovacık which has a number of guesthouses, a restroom (albeit a squat type primitive one, though they have running water and liquid soap; next to the mosque of the village - don't look for a Blue Mosque, it's a green little building. It's for free), a grocery store (Faralya Market; cash only, a very meager selection of vegetables, drinks, and snacks; it's located at the exit of the village, on the road to Kabak, though you will have to stray away from the Lycian Way as it's located after where Lycian Way forks from the road), and garbage bins (there is one in front of George's House, about 200 mt off the trail towards the cliffs of Butterfly Valley). There is a fountain in front of the mosque, but the water doesn't taste very good and it comes out of a moss-covered marble wall.
After arriving to Faralya at the side of the Die Wassermühle, the Lycian Way joins the tarmac road that is coming from Ölüdeniz. For a view of -or climbing down to- the Butterfly Valley, walk to right towards the direction of George's House opposite the mosque. This is a small village, so after passing away the mosque and a Lycian or Greek sacrophagus on the hill near it to left, the village ends. The Lycian Way quickly turns left into the forest after the exit of the village, abandoning the tarmac road towards Kabak, which is referred to as either Faralya (Kabak) or Kabak on signs from the point you entered Faralya on (Die Wassermühle).
Climbing down to Butterfly Valley
The climb is comparatively steep and there are ropes to use in several parts. Nevertheless the well trained locals can do the climb up form the valley in 15-20 minutes. Not suggested to climb in rainy weather since the rocks become slippery. One can stay there in the bungalows or tents for rent (40-80TL), go to visit the natural park with the waterfall or take a ferry to Ölüdeniz.
For some more details and safety tips on climbing down to the Valley, see Faralya article.
Distance: 7 km
Kabak, consisted of an upper village proper and a number of bungalows below on the coast, has a number of guesthouses and a small grocery store (cash only; at the upper village).
There are 2 ways to go to Alınca — via the beach of Kabak (descends down to the beach and connects to the hill road later) or via the hills around the valley with the fabulous sea views from the up. On the way one can find nice wild camping places. If one follows the signs to the hill way for a few minutes there is a water source on the left of the road.
The ascent from Kabak to Alınca is long and there is no water source on the way.
Distance: 9 km
Alınca is an upper hill hamlet of just 13 households with no descend to a beach but a dramatic view over the sea. There is no shop in the village. However, there are several guesthouses, some of which are open all year. For instance, a villager named Bayram rents rooms for 50 TL a night, or another recently opened guesthouse in the village, housed in a stone building named [Alamut] (☎ +90 252 679-10-69 (cell phone: +90-537-852-86-46, firstname.lastname@example.org), . ).
From Alınca, there are two ways — either the (non-waymarked) paved road used by vehicles or the actual Lycian Way, which traverses a section with dramatic views along some very narrow paths with deep cliffs just the length of a feet away from your steps — those afraid of heights will want to note that before heading out! Extreme caution should be taken when traversing the sections alongside the cliffs- walking sticks or poles may be helpful here (you can easily pick up a suitable stick in the first km following Alinca). It is not recommendable to attempt this section after dark or in rainy weather. There are excellent wild camping spots starting about 1.5 or 2km after Alinca; before this it is a bit tricky as the path lies largely on thin cliff areas.
Between Alınca and Gey one can find a running water source if one continues hiking on the road (around 3 km away from Alınca after passing few farm houses on the left). Alternatively you may purchase bottled water from a guesthouse or just ask to use their tap. Most of them have drinkable water and have no problem letting you fill your bottles.
Close to Alınca, an alternative trail leads away as well, which goes through the village of Boğaziçi (4 km).
Distance: 6 km
The official name of Gey is Yediburunlar and it is comparatively bigger village compared to Alınca and has a mosque, 2 shops (named Lycian market, cash only), WC and a water source brought there just few years ago. This is again upper village with no descend to a beach.
The village mayor (muhtar) Bayram (not to be confused with the other Bayram in Alınca) rents a room and open-air patio of his two-story wooden house to hikers for overnights stays. Bayram can also reportedly arrange transfer of your excess luggage to your final destination with his pickup. There is also another, beautifully located boutique-type guesthouse (Yediburunlar Lighthouse) just outside the village, run by a Turkish-South African couple that has 1 small room they keep for walkers on the LW.160lira for 2 persons, half board. tel +90 252 679-10-01" mobile: +90-536-523-58-81" email- Leonhitge@hotmail.com or www.walkyediburunlar.com" Cliff-top views. Open year-round.
There are 2 ways to continue to Bel — direct route that continues from Lycian market to the right or you may take the side trail through the ruins of Sidyma near the modern village of Dodurga, which is a little longer. The former path begins by crossing through farmyards for a few kms. The waymarks in this section are rather sparse so keep your eyes peeled.
Distance: about 10 km
Continue from the Lycian market in Gey to the left taking the road that starts to ascend, if around 20 min later you will pass the water source building on your left then you are on the right path. Continue until you will reach crossroads with few households from where you need to take the ascending road again. There on the top you should find the Lycian road signs again. Continue to Sidyma — the road will start to descend, first you will see the the castle wall on the left, but your way continues to the modern village Hisar first (drinkable water sources available) and after that you will find the ruins of an ancient city of Sidyma. The ruins that survived until these times are mainly the tombs though and few other ancient house ruins sometimes hidden in the bushes and the trees.
In order to return to Bel you will need to come back to the Lycian Way sign 'Bel 3km' and from there the road is descending all the time, you will pass also the few households visited before from where you will continue using the descending road to the left (not taken before). After a while on your left you will see a village down in a valley with a mosque which is Bel.
Distance: 10 km
After following the path to the right at the mosque, there is a water source in Bel on the left of the road. There are some pensions in Bel, one called Fatima which you will see towards the end of the village on your left. Other villagers may run informal pensions, so talking to them may end up in lodging and food offers.
The trail continues out of the village on an unpaved road. Waymarks are sparse, so don't miss the turnoff to the right onto a smaller dirt road. You will pass through a gate en route to Belceğiz. The signposts along the trail in this section indicate a settlement named Belceğiz between Bel (4 km away) and Gavurağılı. However, Belceğiz is just a collection of stone-built dwellings that belong to a few old shepherds who live there sometimes. The place around the dwelling though is very good for camping and has also fireplaces. Be careful for snakes in this area (and the whole Lycian Way generally). During the night though it might become humid and cold. The only water source there — a cistern — is drinkable if purified or boiled before usage.
The way from Belceğiz to Gavurağılı descends down from the mountain.
Distance: 6 km
Gavurağılı is a hamlet with very few households, no shop but there is a clean and cold water source between road and the sea. Watch on your left for waymarks and writing indicating "water" and "agua" on a stone wall towards the end of the village. To access the water go right here on what is a loop trail descnding to the water source. There are also some villagers offering lodging, and one pension ın Gavurağılı. One can use the car road from Gavurağılı to arrive to Pydnai in case the Lycian waymarks are lost. The turnoff to Pyndai from the road is then quite obvious and signed.
Distance: 8 km
Pydnai consists of the ancient town remains on a hill with an intact surrounding wall (which makes up most of what remained there to see in the town nowadays). Out of the walls, the town is surrounded by marshy ground, which was possibly a gulf serving as the harbour of the city back in ancient times. Lycian Way enters the city wall from one gate, and exits from another one after traversing the ancient town from one end to the other.
Pydnai (also spelled Pydnee on non-Lycian Way road signs) is situated close to the modern village of Karadere municipality where one can find a shop and several drinkable water sources, but it is at least 5 km extra walk one way to the shop from Pydnai. In Karadere municipality one can find also shuttles to the nearby villages and towns including Kınık (Xanthos).
After traversing Pydnai, the trail descents towards the coast (if the poorly maintained way marks in this area are lost one can just continue in the direction of the beach), through the back of a property (head for the greenhouse) and crosses River Özlen (Özlen Çayı) close to the river's mouth on a narrow, flimsy-looking wooden bridge at the western edge of Patara beach. There is a guesthouse and campground here at the mouth of the river which has a small shop. Patara beach is a rather ugly and dirty beach, but not touristic and very quiet at this end.
Most of this section lies on the level ground of a coastal plain, through an uninspiring "sea" of greenhouse plastics (this area is a large greenhouse tomato growing region). If one wishes to termiate their walk here or take a shortcut through this section, from the mouth of the river follow the dirt road towards Karadere. After about 400m to the left there is a small white building which serves as the final dolmuş stop from and to Fethiye via Karadere/Kınık. Dolmuşes come roughly every 20-30 minutes from here. Ask the driver to drop you off at Kınık. From the T-junction where he will stop, there are Lycian Way signposts to Xanthos. Or to go elsewhere, follow the tarmac road to the right (the dolmuş will go left) for about 700m or so (you will cross a bridge). You will reach the roundabout indicating the centre of Kınık, with the Otogar on the right which can take you to several destinations including Kaş.
If you follow the red and white marks from Pyndai, they will lead several kilometers through mudflats and scrub brush finally arriving at a new paving stone road. Turn left and you will soon arrive in the outskirts of Letoon. A right turn on this road takes you to an abandoned beachhouse. There is no mark here indicating the left turn. (May 2014)
Distance: 4 km
Letoon was the main religious centre of Lycia, ruins of which now lie on the top of a slightly higher hill surrounded by greenhouses covering the coastal plain.
You will pass Eşen Çayı, known in ancient times as Xanthos River on a modern road bridge immediately at the entrance of Kınık, a relatively big-ish town on the route (at the very least, it's the biggest one since you left Faralya, or even Ovacık behind), and the hub for visiting both Letoon and Xanthos.
Distance: 1 km
Kınık is comparatively big town with lots of tomato green houses, ATMs, plenty of shops, cafeterias, bus station and available places to stay overnight. In spring, however, no accommodation is available. There are many signs from Kınık showing the direction to Xanthos — which one could say is almost in the town itself — situated on the hill just to the left after crossing the bridge to enter Kınık. Even though Xanthos is a museum with an entrance fee (4 TL), sometimes after its working hours it is possible to visit it for free.
Passing Xanthos and continuing the road a little bit forward away from Kınık one can find a nice camping place next to the grain field and olive trees.
Distance: 4 km
This whole section is on asphalt road. One can take a Dolmuş from Kınık to Çavdır to skip it, although it is likely that waiting for the Dolmuş will be longer than the 45 minutes it takes on foot.
Continue straight after passing by Xanthios entry. Then, about 500m further, stick to the main road as it turns right. The newer paving stone road goes down along the river. Do not take it. (May 2014) There are almost no waymarks on this section, just follow the main road until you reach D400, the main highway between Fethiye and Kalkan. Cross it and continue straight ahead. After 2km or so, you will reach a crossing with two markets.
Although a sign says Çavdır is on the left, you are in the village already and the Lycian way turns right at this crossing. There are Lycian Way signs, just out of view, 30 meters past the crossing.
If you need to, you may go left to the center of the village. It is about 200m from the crossing and has plenty of shops and coffee places.
Distance: 13 km
After the crossing in Çavdır, the way turns left between two houses, be careful not to miss the turn. It then follows through a cimetery and climbs uphill until it reaches an ancient aqueduct. The trail runs on the top of it almost all the way to Üzümlü.
Be extra careful if it rained recently as the aqueduct is very narrow and the stones get slippery when wet. The last 200m of the aqueduct still have running water on it and can be tricky to cross.
Üzümlü is a large-ish village with a restaurant (offering trout on the menu) and a guesthouse run by the village council (muhtarlık misafirhanesi).
Distance, Akbel to Bezirgan 10 km, not counting Patara loop.
İslamlar is the name of the village at the top of the Akbel pass. It is a large village featuring shops.
The modern town of Kalkan, with its beach, hotels, countless cafés and supermarkets lies downhill, 3 km away. From İslamlar, a side trail leads to it, or one may just follow the main road and be in the center of Kalkan in 20 minutes.
The main Lycian way does not go to Kalkan yet though. It first makes a 16-km loop through Gelemiş, at the eastern edge of Patara beach (and the ruins of ancient city of Patara). Only then does it go through Kalkan, crossing it then following the main highway for part of this section.
On the open plateau before arriving at Bezirgan, you will pass along a number of wooden granaries with corrugated metal roofs. These structures are said to be centuries old and the very same design is purported to be used by Romans or even Lycians.
Distance: 7 km
Bezirgan is a large uphill town (yayla) with guesthouses available. After climbing up the hill from Bezirgan, the route just touches a paved road leading down into Sarıbelen. At this point the red and white marks lead right, SW, gradually rising along the side of a hill called Yumru T. Do not follow these, they eventually dead end. Instead there is apparently a steep path from the road junction down into Sarıbelen. I did not find that path. Alternatively, one can follow the paved road for 15 minutes down to the village of Sarıbelen (May 2014).
Distance: 13 km
Sarıbelen is a small village. A local villager named Neşet rents his patio for campers, as well as Tim, an Australian settled in a distance from the village.
Distance: 8 km
A guesthouse run by a villager named Hüseyin is available in Gökçeören. He is next to the Mosque (May 2014).
Distance: 14 km
Hacıoğlan Deresi is, unlike other location names found on the Lycian Way signposts, not a settlement but is just a creek (dere translates "stream" in Turkish).
Distance: 3 km (But Lycian Way signposts drop Çukurbağ in favour of Antiphellos, which lies 11 km away from Phellos). You can see Çukurbağ from the hilltop at Phellos. It is a steep path down to the village (May 2014).
Phellos was a mountaintop Lycian city. Well-preserved typical Lycian sacrophagii is among what can be seen here.
Distance: 8 km
Çukurbağ, like Bezirgan, is another large-ish uphill town, yayla.
Distance: around 19 km
Antiphellos is the ruins of an ancient city just east of major town of Kaş (about 0.5km). Kaş is comparatively big touristic town with ATMs, shops, cafeterias, hostels, hotels, bars and a bus station. It has a little beach (Küçük Çakıl Plajı) inside the beach clubs close to the city center and a bigger beach (Büyük Çakıl Plajı) around 20 min walk away from the center.
The Lycian way continues from Büyük Çakıl Plajı to Limanağzı (about 3km), but be careful at one point the way branches into 2 - one continues over the hill forward and the other one descends to Limanağzı with a beach club, including restaurants and the last drinkable water sources before Boǧazcık, 3 hours away. The Lycian way itself does not cross the beach club though, it merely touches it for 5 meters.
From Limanağzı you can continue the Lycian way and reach the point where the both paths connect again, but one should be careful not to take the path back to Kaş since the Lycian way marks disappear for a while on the correct path and appear only later on. The path goes also through the fenced garden area and arrives later on to the uninhabited beach. The Lycian way from here continues on the road and then next to the seaside again passing several nice wild camping sites and the beach near Üzümlü. Later on the way is well marked until ancient ruins without particular name known. From this point the Lycian way marks might be faded and difficult to notice (as of June 2011). At the last Lycian way mark when facing the ruins the path continues behind you and does not follow the road down. Time to time there are also some stone made marks by people next to the faded Lycian way marks to attract attention of the trekkers. If the way marks are hopelessly lost one can try to reach the road which is on the left if the ruins passed before are behind you. On this road further you will arrive also to the Lycian yellow arrow with the direction to Kılınç (Apollonia). The first inhabited place which one will reach is Boğazcık. It is a little hamlet without any shops apart from Ali Kızmaz's pension where one can stay also over night or have a lunch, but one should take into account that in the hottest season the people are migrating to highlands. The new mosque, easy to spot with its two huge minarets, has drinkable water.
From here one can continue to the ruins of Apollonia.
Alternative way from Boǧazcık: one can skip Apollonia and 4km of the trail by taking the small path through the fields to the little village Kılınç (also Sahil Kılınçlı) that has a mosque and a little shop. The shop though might be closed at the hottest season because the owner might move to highlands, too. From Kılınç, follow the main street southwards, you will meet the Lycian way again after 1km or so, coming from Apollonia, which you can see on your right.
Distance: around 7 km
The ruins of the ancient town Apollonia are located close to the modern little village Kılınç. In fact on the yellow arrow signs both names appear together.
Distance : 10 km, about 3 hours.
There is a pension, the Purple House, in Aperlae, serving vegetarian dishes. Aperlae was known in ancient times for the purple die obtained from shell fish in the sea near Aperlae. The Purple House might have drinkable water depending on the season, but do not rely on it. The Purple House is extremely rustic with very primitive facilities at relatively high cost for what you get. Another option, with newer facilities, can be found at the Boat House. It is located an easy, 1 km walk over flat stone-free ground further along the way (May 2014).
The first part of this section is quite simple, a dirt track in a flat field. Make sure to have enough time and water for the last section, which is full of huge rocks, so you will be quite slow.
Total distance: 21 km
Üçağız, also known as the ancient Kekova, is a busy touristic place with lots of restaurants, hotels and two shops. The prices are higher than usual here as the sunken ruins of Kekova drive thousands of visitors into a very small village where building anything new is forbidden. One can find water at the small mosque.
Major localities and sights in this section are:
Demre is the last place with accommodation options until Finike, 30 km away, a distance which is hiked in three days by most hikers; a tent or sleeping bag is essential for two nights in this section.
Total distance: 12 km, 1800m up then 18km, 1800m down, about 18 hours.
There is no shop from Myra all the way to Finike, which should take 2 or 3 days to most hikers, so get some food along. Your best bet is to get to Demre, 3 km from Myra, which has a few supermarkets. Water should not be a problem as wells are frequent. It is drinkable, although not very clean. If you care about the taste, take something to filter it.
Camping in Alakilise is a good option as it is half-way up (alt. 1000m) and close to a well. The shepherd houses, about 3 hours further are a good option too (alt. 1500m, with a well too).
At Goncatepe, the trail reaches its maximum elevation of about 1,800 mt above sea level. In winter time, expect a thin layer of snow.
Total distance: 20km, perfectly flat.
Finike is a modern major town and Lycian Way merges with the major highway D400 here. There are no marks and one should just follow the long footpath, until near Mavikent, which is about 20 km away in the east. Taking public transport (or even hitchhiking) is the obvious sensible choice to cross this uninteresting coastal plain, covered by nothing else but greenhouse plastics.
From Finike, follow the footpath until the road turns left. Cross the bridge about 200m after the turn, then follow the street past the greenhouses. A seemingly lost Lycian way sign will encourage you after about 8km.
Alternate route through Kumluca
Total distance: 35km, perfectly flat.
Kumluca is a major town, albeit much, much less touristic than Finike. Prices are low, people are much less used to tourists and therefore more welcoming than in Finike. This alternate route is therefore a good option if you are interested in Turkish way of life as much as sceneries.
From Finike, follow the footpath until the road turns left. Do not cross the bridge. Rather, continue on the main road for 6 more kilometers. About one kilometer in the city, you will reach a crossing with giant vegetables. It is the center of the town. Around, you can find lots of Pide and Kebap for eating, along with a couple of “pastanesi” selling tea and pastries. There are some hotels in the city, although not on the main square. Simply ask people for “otel”. When you are done enjoying the city, from the main square, go east (right from where you came from) then follow signposts pointing to either “Mavikent” or “Karaöz” for a bit less than 20km.
Finally, Kumluca being a major town, it has very good connections to both Finike and Mavikent.
Total distance: 8 km, mostly flat.
Mavikent is a small farm hub, without anything to see but greenhouses. In the summer, it is possible to skip straight from Finike to Karaöz (or Kumluca to Karaöz) with public transport. Off season though, public transport only runs all the way to Karaöz twice a week. Therefore, you should:n
Camping spots are spread along the way, all of them featuring an access to the sea, clean water and garbage cans.
Karaöz is a small, touristic village of summer houses, owner mostly by foreigners. It has two shops. A small one along the beach, easy to find, and a larger one in the block of summer houses, a bit more hidden. Water can be found at the mosquee, but there will be taps a few hundred meters out of the village.
Total distance: 10km, 300m up. About 2 hours.
It is possible to go all the way from Karaöz to Adrasan in one day in summer. The walk is quite long though (about 9 hours) and very exposed with no water. Camping at the lighthouse is an easier alternative, shortening the second day to 6 hours, possibly in the fresher hours of the morning.
It is possible to camp on the level ground beside the lighthouse (the family operating it is pretty relaxed about this), even in the pergola covered with grapevines at the yard, however be extra careful about scorpions in this place, as many hikers report of them.
There is a well next to the lighthouse with reportedly drinkable water. As of 2014/02, it has no bucket or rope, making it unusable if you do not carry appropriate equipment.
As of 2014/02, the last tap was in a forest area, standing out of the ground about 5 meters on the right of the track with stones built into a U shape around it. As there will be no water from this point on (let alone the well at the lighthouse), you should replenish your supply there.
Total distance: 17 km, about 6 hours. Profile: 100m up, 300m down, 400m up, then down to sea level.
This section has no water until the last kilometer. It is very exposed, has lots of places with no shadow, and reverberation from the sea makes it very hot, even in winter time.
It takes at least 5 hours to hike this section, which is one of the remotest parts of the trail. There is no GSM coverage and no village around. Inexperienced hikers are generally advised not to attempt this section alone, even by Kate Clow herself.
Total distance: 20 km
At Çıralı, Lycian Way branches into two: one of the routes closely follow the coastline (if sometimes actually a little away from the beach itself), and the other via the mountains inland. The routes merge again in Gedelme up in the mountains and keep running towards north.
Total distance: 22 km
Between Aşağıkuzdere and Gedelme, there are some mountain gorges, as well as a Roman bridge over a creek to pass.
Warning: this section is now cut by the flame's entrance booth. Entrance is no longer free. Moreover, there is no way around, which means you have no option but to pay the fee or go back.
Total distance: 29 km
Between Yukarı Beycik and Yayla Kuzdere, you'll pass just east of 2,300 mt-high summit of Mt Tahtalı, one of the mountains known as "Olympos" to ancients.
Total distance: 11 km
Total distance: 22 km
There is a variety of lodging, mostly family-run guesthouses, in some of the villages along the route, usually 10 km inbetween. Prices can vary a lot depending on the place, even in the same hamlet. Off-season, an average price is around 50 liras for two people, half-board in villages, about the same price without food in towns. However at some remoter sections, wild camping is your only option. Plan ahead to see whether you will be needing camping gear or not.
You'll be mostly fine and safe by following the marks and keeping on trail, but there are certain things that one should be wary of.
While you may receive a weak signal in some parts of the trail, you'll be mostly out of GSM coverage while hiking in the remote parts.
If your legs are not sufficiently tired yet, why don't you give the Saint Paul Trail, which is another 500-so km waymarked trail lying between eastern suburbs of Antalya and Yalvaç up in the north that is even wilder and more remote, a try?