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Lisbon

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Lisbon

Lisbon (Lisboa) is the capital of Portugal.

Understand

Like Rome, Lisbon is built on seven hills.

Lisbon's tourist information infrastructure received a shot in the arm in the leadup to EuroCup 2004. The sparkling new Lisboa Ask Me Centre (Pç. do Comércio, 21 0312815, open 09:00 - 20:00 daily) will help you find accommodation and is happy to dispense advice, maps and brochures. Smaller Ask Me Lisboa kiosks are dotted about the Rossio district and airport and their multilingual staff also have maps and brochures.

The Lisboa Welcome Card, which can be purchased from tourist information outlets, offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €13.25 / €5.90), 48 hour (€22.50 / €9.10) and 72 hour (€27.50 / €11.90) denominations.

Get in

By plane

Portugal's largest international air hub is the Aeroporto da Portela (Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas, Tel: 21 841 35 00, Fax: 21 841 36 75, web: http://www.ana-aeroportos.pt/) which is linked to the city centre by an Aerobus (line 91) every 20 minutes from 07:00 - 21:00 and bus lines 5, 8, 22, 44, 45, 83.

  • A ticket for the Aerobus is €3,50 and is valid on all public transportation lines for one day.
  • Taxis cost about €10 from the airport to the city centre. Charge is according to the meter, adding €1.20 per item of luggage.

By train

There are two train stations in Lisbon: S. Apolónia and Orient Station

By car

By bus

By boat

Get around

Lisbon's recently refurbished metro system (http://www.metrolisboa.pt) is quick and efficient. Single trip tickets within Zone 1 (which covers most of the city) cost €0.70, although you can buy a 10 trip card for €6.50.

Be sure to check out the public transport one- and multiple-day tickets, as most likely you will save a lot of money using them.

Think twice before using a car in the city unless you are prepared to spend hours in traffic jams. Parking in certain areas can also be a pain.

If your accommodation is in the centre of the city, walking is a great alternative. Many of the attractions of the city, such as the Castelo and the Alfama and Barrio Alto districts, are within easy walking distance of the Baixa.

See

  • The Gulbenkian museum. Avenida de Berna, 45A,
  • St Jorge's Castle. Located up the hill, with a great view over the city and the river. If you have the energy, do the way walking from the downtown, going through the fantastic old neighborhood of Alfama.
  • Santa Justa's Elevator. Located downtown, this elevator design by a disciple of Eifel, connects the downtown to the Trindade, located several meters uphill.
  • Praça do Comércio. This magnificent plaza, facing the river, is the beginning of Lisboa's downtown. Also known by 'Terreiro do Paço', meaning 'Garden of the Palace', relating to its function before the Great Earthquake of 1755.
  • Downtown. This part of the city was completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. The planned layout, greatly different from what you will see in the more ancient neighborhoods, is a testimony of the Enlightenment ideas.

Do

Instead of paying for a trip in one of the tourist trams, try line 28. It takes you by many of Lisbon's most famous sites, and although it is overrun with tourists, you still get a flavor of the locals.

Go to the castle overlooking Lisbon.

Use the funiculars and elevadores. Day passes for public transportation are also valid for those.

Most of the tube system is a free Art Gallery. There you'll find art by contemporary artists inspired by the stations' surrounding area. Check the subway webpage for more details on this curiosity - http://www.metrolisboa.pt/artemetro_uk.htm.

Literature

Books about the city and romances where Lisbon takes the centre stage:


  • Poem upon the Lisbon Disaster

Voltaire; ISBN: 0915778165; Format: Hardcover; Pub. Date: July 1977; Publisher: Penmaen Press;


  • Lisbon in the Renaissance

D. De Gois; Paperback 126 pages (February 6, 1997); Publisher: Italica Press; Language: English; ISBN: 0934977364;


  • The Journal of a Voyage to Lisbon

Henry Fielding; Paperback 192 pages (January 25, 1996); Publisher: Penguin Books Ltd; Language: English; ISBN: 0140434879; Synopsis; In 1754 Henry Fielding, suffering from a serious illness was winched aboard a ship bound for Portugal. This is Fielding's diary of that journey, but was also his opportunity to scrutinize his body's decay and the corruption of English society. It was completed some weeks before his death.


  • Winter in Lisbon

Atoni Munoz Molina, Sonia Soto (Translator; Paperback 224 pages (August 12, 1999); Publisher: Granta Books; ISBN: 1862071667; Synopsis When jazz pianist Santiago Biralbo meets the wife of an American art dealer, he begins not only an obsessional love affair, but also an odyssey that will strip him of his identity in his quest to understand love and music.

  • Antonio Tabucchi

Tabucchi is a Tuscan (Florentine) writer who fell in love with Lisbon and its citizens - having married one -, practically all his books have Lisbon as the centre of all the action and AT has even written "Requiem" in Portuguese. Apart from being a great writer in literary terms, Tabucchi strikes for his magnificent portraial of this Atlantic - rather than Mediterranean - people that the Portuguese are.

  • The Night in Lisbon

Erich Maria Remarque, Ralph Manheim (Translator); Paperback 256 pages (June 1, 1998); Publisher: Ballantine Books; Language: English; ISBN: 0449912434;


  • The Last Kabbalist of Lisbon

Richard Zimler; Paperback 318 pages (September 1998); Publisher: Arcadia Books; Language: English; ISBN: 1900850036; Synopsis; Set in Lisbon in 1506, a debut novel in the tradition of THE NAME OF THE ROSE. When his uncle, a renowned kabbalist, is found dead, Berekiah's investigations lead him into the secret ways in which the Jews sought to hide from their persecutors


  • The History of the Siege of Lisbon (Panther S.)

Jose Saramago, Giovanni Pontiero (Translator); Paperback 320 pages (May 21, 2000); Publisher: The Harvill Press; Language: English; ISBN: 1860467229; Synopsis; When Raimundo Silva, humble proof-reader for a Lisbon publishing house, takes it upon himself to insert a negative into the sentence of a history book, he rewrites history. The effect of this act of insubordination is to make his editor, the voluptuous Dr Maria Sara, fall in love with him.


  • A Small Death in Lisbon

Robert Wilson; Paperback 544 pages (May 2, 2000); Publisher: HarperCollins; Language: English; ISBN: 000651202X; Synopsis; Stunning, atmospheric thriller set in war-torn Europe by a brilliant young British writer: 'A class act' -- Sunday Times A Portuguese bank is founded on the back of Nazi wartime deals. Over half a century later a young girl is murdered in Lisbon. 1941. Klaus Felsen, SS, arrives in Lisbon and the strangest party in history where Nazis and Allies, refugees and entrepreneurs dance to the strains of opportunism and despair. Felsen's war takes him to the bleak mountains of the north where a brutal battle is being fought for an element vital to Hitler's blitzkrieg. Late 1990s, Lisbon. Inspector Ze Coelho is investigating the murder of a young girl with a disturbing sexual past. As Ze digs deeper he overturns the dark soil of history and unearths old bones. The 1974 revolution has left injustices of the old fascist regime unresolved. But there's an older, greater injustice for which this small death in Lisbon is horrific compensation, and in his final push for the truth, Ze must face the most chilling opposition.


  • Company of Strangers

Robert Wilson; ISBN: 0156027100; Format: Paperback, 496pp; Pub. Date: October 2002; Publisher: Harcourt; Edition Description: HARVEST; Synopsis; The stifling summer streets of Lisbon are teeming with spies and informers when Andrea Aspinall, an English mathematician turned spy, disappears under a new identity. Military attaché Karl Voss, experienced in the illusions of intrigue, arrives in Lisbon under the German Legation, though he is secretly working against the Nazis so that atomic and rocket technology do not find their way into Hitler's hands.


  • The Pursuit (The English Garden Series #4)

Lori Wick; ISBN: 0736909125; Format: Paperback, 300pp; Pub. Date: July 2003; Publisher: Harvest House Publishers; Synopsis; Edward Steele is at last on his way home and determined to be in Collingbourne before Christmas—but that was before he met Denley and Osborne. Sailing from Africa to England, Edward meets these two very different men aboard ship. Osborne chooses to ignore everyone while Denley and Edward find themselves much together. But as their journey continues, Denley begins to feel unwell. By the time the ship stops in Lisbon, Portugal, he is very sick indeed. Not able to ignore his traveling companion’s plight, Edward abandons his goal of going home and disembarks with Denley and Osborne. He never dreams that his association with them will lead to the mysterious Nicola Bettencourt, a woman who captivates and confounds him in equal measures.


  • Night Train to Lisbon

Emily Grayson; ISBN: 0060542659; Format: Mass Market Paperback, 248pp; Pub. Date: April 2005; Publisher: HarperCollins Publishers; Synopsis; Night Train to Lisbon is a sensuous tale of the pursuit of love and passion against all odds, set in the 1930s when the world was on the brink of war and suspicion of loyalty, motivation, and intent — to both country and lover — was at flood tide.Carson Weatherell is a privileged young American woman traveling in Europe in 1936, courtesy of her aunt and uncle who live abroad and have kindly offered to show her the sights. A bout of illness and self-pity almost send her back to her sheltered Connecticut life, but on an overnight train to Lisbon, she suddenly can't imagine returning home. On that train she meets Alec Breve, a young British scientist traveling with a group of colleagues — and in his company, Carson finds that she's enjoying herself, certainly for the first time since she left New York Harbor, and quite possibly for the first time in her life.In Lisbon, Carson and Alec begin an intense love affair, but their bliss is threatened when Carson's uncle reveals that Alec might be a spy for Germany. He insists that it is essential that Alec be trapped and brought to justice, and the only person who can deliver an unsuspecting Alec to the proper authorities is Carson. Desperate to believe in her new love — and terrified of discovering she has fallen for a traitor — Carson must choose whether to prove her lover innocent or leave him to face the consequences on his own.A riveting page-turner, Night Train to Lisbon travels back to the days when war loomed, the Mitford sisters dazzled, and night trains brimmed with romance and intrigue, delivering a mesmerizing novel of a love that must truly conquer all in order tosurvive.


  • Lucky in Love

David Mouraao-Ferreira Product Details: ISBN: 1857543882; Format: Paperback, 256pp; Pub. Date: January 1999; Publisher: Carcanet Press, Limited;


  • Lovers in Lisbon

Barbara Cartland; Product Details:; ISBN: 0515095451; Format: Mass Market Paperback; Pub. Date: May 1988; Publisher: Penguin Group (USA) Incorporated; Series: Camfield Romance Ser.


  • Le goût de Lisbonne

Jean-Noël Mouret; Synopsys; Déguster un vieux porto en compagnie d'Antonio Tabucchi ou un mille-feuilles avec José Saramago, aller chez le barbier avec Antonio Lobo Antunes ou dans les bars avec José Cardoso Pires, une autre façon, littéraire et savoureuse de découvrir Lisbonne. DirectionJean-Noël Mouret Editeur Mercure De France Collection Petit Mercure Format10 cm x 15 cm ISBN2715223056


  • Lisbonne

F. Pessoa; roman (poche) F. Pessoa; Auteur; Editeur10/18; Collection10/18 Domaine Etranger, numéro 2860; Illustration Illustrations couleur; ISBN2264026421.


  • Lisbonne

Pierre Kyria; ISBN2903528551; Lisbonne dernière marge; Antoine Volodine; roman (broché); AuteurAntoine Volodine; Editeur Minuit; Nombre de pages244 pages; Format12 cm x 24 cm; ISBN2707313394.

  • Lisbonne, livre de bord

José Cardoso Pires; Editeur Gallimard; ISBN2070750698.


Lisbon on cartoons / bande dessiné:

  • Lisbonne voyage imaginaire

De Crécy, Metz; bande dessinée (cartonné); DessinateurDe Crécy; ScénarioMetz; Editeur Casterman; Collection Carnets De Voyage; Nombre de pages78 pages; Format23 cm x 31 cm; Illustration Illustrations couleur; ISBN220335920X


  • Lisbonne carnets

Dupuy-Berberian bande dessinée (broché) DessinateurDupuy-Berberian Editeur Cornelius Eds Collection Blaise Nombre de pages48 pages Format28 cm x 21 cm Illustration Illustrations couleur ISBN2909990699


Books about the 1755 earthquake:


• Benjamin, Walter. "The Lisbon Earthquake." In Selected Writings vol. 2. Belknap, 1999. ISBN 0674945867. Synopsis The often abstruse critic Benjamin gave a series of radio broadcasts for children in the early 1930s; this one, from 1931, discusses the Lisbon earthquake and summarizes some of its impact on European thought.


• Brooks, Charles B.. Disaster at Lisbon: The Great Earthquake of 1755. 1994.

• Chase, J. "The Great Earthquake At Lisbon (1755)". Colliers Magazine, 1920.

• Dynes, Russell Rowe. "The dialogue between Voltaire and Rousseau on the Lisbon earthquake: The emergence of a social science view." University of Delaware, Disaster Research Center, 1999.

• Hamacher, Werner. "The Quaking of Presentation." In Premises: Essays on Philosophy and Literature from Kant to Celan, pp. 261-293. Stanford University Press, 1999. ISBN 0804736200.

• Kendrick, T.D.. The Lisbon Earthquake. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott, 1957.

• Neiman, Susan. Evil in Modern Thought: An Alternative History of Modern Philosophy. Princeton University Press, 2002. Synopsis This book centers on philosophical reaction to the earthquake, arguing that the earthquake was responsible for modern conceptions of evil.

• Ray, Gene. "Reading the Lisbon Earthquake: Adorno, Lyotard, and the Contemporary Sublime (http://muse.jhu.edu/journals/yale_journal_of_criticism/v017/17.1ray.html)." Yale Journal of Criticism 17.1 (2004): pp. 1-18.

• Seco e Pinto, P.S. (Editor). Earthquake Geotechnical Engineering: Proceedings of the Second International Conference, Lisbon, Portugal, 21-25 June, 1999. ISBN 9058091163

• Weinrich, Harald. "Literaturgeschichte eines Weltereignisses: Das Erdbeben von Lissabon." In Literatur für Leser, pp. 64-76. Stuttgart: Kohlhammer, 1971. ISBN 3170872257. In German. Synopsis Cited by Hamacher as a broad survey of philosophical and literary reactions to the Lisbon earthquake.

Work

Buy

Shops open a little later than other places in Europe, and the lunch breaks can be quite long. They are usually closed on Sundays, but you'll find that some decide to open for a couple of hours.

You can buy a Lisbon Shopping Card, which gives you discounts at major stores around the city for a period of 24 hours.

Eat

If it's traditional Portuguese that you're after, then the area of Alfama is the place to go. There, you have plenty of choice, with a street full of restaurants. Try the seafood rice (arroz de marisco).

Try the magnificent "Pastéis de Nata" or "Pastéis de Belém" next to the "Gerónimos" monastery in Belém. Have them warm and profusely showered in cinnamon.. Huummmm

Budget

Mid-range

A bit outside of Lisbon you can by car or by train from Cais do Sodré station:

Restaurant PANORAMA Estr. do Guincho 2750-642 CASCAIS Tel: 21487 9458

Bairro Alto

  • Sul, Rua do Norte 13, +351 21 346 24 49. Delicious mediterranean and south american food. Good wine and drinks list. Helpful staff will translate the menu, which is written on the blackboard, and happily cater for vegetarians. Gets packed in the evenings so bookings recommended if you're eating from 9pm onwards. €30 (2 courses with wine and cocktail).

Splurge

Drink

Lisbon is known for its lively night. For going out, try the old neighborhood of Bairro Alto ('high neighborhood'), located in the top of one of the hills, you can get there by subway (Baixa/Chiado station) or by taking the marvelous cablecar from the Restauradores plaza. Its small streets, full of people, are packed with high variety of bars. Alcântara, Santos, Expo, and the castle area are all neighbourhoods with a thriving nightlife. The whole area near the river/atlantic is a huge hub for nightlife, as Lisbon has never lost it's ties to the sea.

Sleep

If you are in the center, finding a sleeping place should not be a big problem. There are many small, unlisted hostels that will offer you enough comfort, and offer a fair price. Expect to pay between €45 and €60 for a double room.

The Ask Me Lisboa tourist information centres (see 'Understand', above) will also help find and book accomodation for you.

Contact

Public telephone booths are common, as are private international call centres. Even though, you'll find the phone booths even less generous than slot-machines: many times they'll swallow your change and give you no credit. You're better off purchasing a calling card or using your credit card, although support for this feature is limited and expensive. When looking for a calling card - try kiosks on the street, little shops... - you'll probably be given one from Portugal Telecom (Portugal's monopolist phone company), ask if they have from other providers. Most of the times they are cheaper, you don't have to insert them anywhere (just dial a code!) and it works in every fix phone, even in hotels - and in this case you don't need to pay any phone bill in the hotel. To call an international number, dial 00 and then the country code.

Internet cafes are also abundant in the Rossio and Restauradores districts. Expect to pay between €2 - €3 per hour.

Stay safe

Although Lisbon is a relatively safe city by European standards, crime rates are on the up. The most common crime against travellers is pickpocketing and theft from rental cars. Lisbon has also seen some gang related nightclub violence in recent years. As immigration is slowly changing from Africa and Brazilian citizens to Eastern Europeans, habits and criminality is also changing, to the more violent, "straight in your face" type, which was extremely uncomun in Portugal.

A lot of the hash and marijuana smuggled into the EU from Morocco is channelled through Lisbon (actually most is through the huge and not well garded Portuguese coast, from the Algarve, where most of it gets in, to the very north). Chances are you'll be approached at least a few times by shady types offering 'hash' or 'chocolate'. A firm 'no thank-you' should be enough to deter them.

Cope

Get out

Belem tower
  • Belem boasts a massive statue looking out to sea, representing the Age of Discoveries. Take tram 15 to the west, which follows the coast line. The town has a large monastery and a pretty little white tower (Belem Tower), looking out to sea.
  • Sintra is a beautiful town a few hours outside Lisbon.
  • Praia das Maçãs is a small and surprisingly calm seaside resort about 30km to the west.
  • Azeitão some 30km South of Lisbon, this small region consists of a series of lovely villages, of which Vila Nogueira de Azeitão and Vila Fresca de Azeitão are the most well known. Azeitão stands between the national park of Arrabida and the coast. In the park you'll meet the last remains of the original Mediterranean Flora. Also, there is the famous convent of Arrabida to visit and the stunning views from its hills and at its peak.
    • Vila Nogueira de Azeitão - visit the beautiful Winery and palace "Quinta da Bacalhoa". Visit also the grand estate and winery of "José Maria da Fonseca". Igreja de São Lorenço with hand painted tile pannels, gilded wood chappels and a Lucca Della Robbia medallion. Convent of S. Domingos
    • Vila Fresca de Azeitão

External links

Transportation

  • CP - Railways


Cultural Life

  • Turismo de Lisboa offers a comprehensive overview of the city for visitors, including a zoomable map.
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