Difference between revisions of "Langmusi"
Revision as of 12:19, 23 June 2013
A sleepy village in a remote breathtaking location inhabited by a colorful mix of Han Chinese, Hui and Amdo Tibetans. It is said that the provincial borderline runs through the middle of town with Sertri Gompa in Gansu and Kirti Gompa located in Sichuan. The power struggles between the two Gompa may have been the reason for the border location. Both temples have distinct styles making both well worth the visit alone. The surounding mountains give off a very much alpine flair remenisant of rural Austria or Bavaria and perfect for hiking and horsetreking.
Currently there are many road works (09.2012) in the village, but the surrounding landscape is still breathtaking and the people there are really worth it.
There is only one bus every day from Xiahe direct to Langmusi leaving at around 7 a.m. from the Xiahe Bus Station.
If you miss this bus, or if you can't get tickets, you can take any early morning bus to Hezuo (1 hour from Xiahe) and then take one of the Hezuo（合作）buses to Langmusi. There are a couple buses from Hezuo to Langmusi each day. There definitely is one leaving at 10:20AM.
When you get to Hezuo, you will need to take a taxi across town to the South Bus Station (Nan Zhan – 南站) where the buses leave for Langmusi.
If you were thinking of hiring a car to take you directly from Xiahe to Langmusi, be ready to pay a lot of money. It will cost you at least ¥350 to hire a car for the trip. The bus is only ¥ 71 per person. If you do end up taking a taxi, be sure to ask to take the "scenic route." The road is a little bumpier than the new highway, and a takes a little longer, but you pass beautiful grasslands, mountains, and tibetan villages along the way.
There are also direct buses to Zoige (Ruo'ergai) in northern Sichuan. There is currently no direct bus to Songpan but the situation may change, as a new highway was completed in 2007.
You can also catch a bus in Jiuzhaigou to Langmusi. There are multiple buses leaving every morning between 7am and 8am. The bus will let you off on the main road outside of Langmusi, not actually driving into town, leaving you with a 1+ km walk, or there will be cars around to get you into town (for a few yuan).
To get out of town up towards Xiahe, there is only one afternoon direct bus a day. You can get morning buses to Hezuo, then a cab to the West Bus Station, then catch a bus to Xiahe. There are many buses to Xiahe each day.
Your own two feet, a bicycle or maybe a pony.
It's worth hiring an English speaking guide to explain the monasteries, sky burial ground and the gorge to you. Ask around in Leisha's restaurant. Langmusi Horse Trekking also offers anything from 1 to 3 day horse treks where you can stay with Tibetan nomads. The lady at the horse trekking place speaks excellent English.
The end of the village closest to the main road is more Westernised, and closer to the monastery it becomes less so. The Sichuan side of town has just put in a brand new road so one hopes the Gansu side will follow suit (update October 2012: the road on the Gansu side seems to be under construction and is currently a big muddy mess). Passing through the monastary takes you up into the surrounding mountains, and there are various possible routes available to reach the summits and highs tablelands (4200m), though take care not to stray too far from a used trail or else you may have to retrace your steps to rejoin a viable route. Wild dogs live in the area and you may spot some while walking, grab a rock if need be. A school can be found near to the monastary, with private housing and a small playground.
If walking in the other direction from the village - towards the main road - one encounters an interesting sandstone formation or mesa whose top is accessable. Prayer flags are present here, and on the aforementioned higher peaks providing a great view of the Gansu monastary side.
Walking through Kirti Gompa and up the valley, you will reach the start of Namo Gorge. It is possible to walk for a considerable distance into the gorge and mountains beyond, being surrounded by amazing scenery and peace and quiet. You have to pay 30Y at the entrance to the monastry, which gets you access to the monastry itself and the gorge, but it is possible to bypass this if you walk up the road to the right of the ticket office, up and over the hill and down to the start of the gorge.
"Local artificial stuff", or craft items, are available from a number of shops, though as with many places in China, many are not particularly 'authentic' and you can find the same products over a very wide region. One or two shops towards the monastary end of town sell knives and you can watch the craftsman producing them.