Difference between revisions of "Kabak"

Revision as of 21:18, 27 June 2011

Overlooking Kabak Beach from Full Moon

Kabak is a small village in Lycia, Turkey. It is the perfect place to escape the package tourist groups, and a great place on the Turkish Mediterranean to have a truly laid-back experience.

Understand

As it doesn't have sufficient population to be designated as a "village", Kabak is officially a neighbourhood of Uzunyurt, and as such, is usually omitted from maps, even quite detailed ones.

Kabak consists of two physically seperate sections: the settlement proper, a small agglomeration of two-story buildings along the road, clinging on a mountainside way above the coastline (though with a view of beautiful Mediterranean), and the cluster of guesthouses below, between the coast and the canyon known as Kabak Koyu, which, with its pine groves, waterfalls, and coastline, is quite similar to much more famous Butterfly Valley of Faralya; however physical access to Kabak Koyu is a little easier than Butterfly Valley, although the relative remoteness of Kabak offsets that.

The state of development in Kabak is in major flux. There are still backpacker oriented places that are truly interested in keeping Kabak beautiful and are invested for the long-term (Full Moon, Reflections, Sultan, Valley [not Sea Valley] and a few more), but they are being pushed out of the way by developers who just want to make a buck quickly (Sea Valley, Art House, Gemile, Cabile, Shanty, Latcho, Shambala [Lonely Planet authors got free accomodation/food here in exchange for being highlighted]). Someone who remembered it from 2005 would find it different now. For example, to build Sea Valley, they cut down the forest next to the beach. They also want to pave the road to the beach so package tourists can come. If you want to stay at a place that is helping Kabak stay beautiful, choose wisely.

Get in

There are minibuses (dolmuş) from Ölüdeniz. They are relatively frequent, (every 1-2 hours until 19:00 or so). They return to Ölüdeniz at the same frequency. 4 TL.

A heavily winding road connects Kabak with Ölüdeniz, passing through Faralya on the way. However, the paved but heavily potholed part ends at the southern exit of Faralya, and the last 6-7 km to Kabak is a dirt road, although wide enough for two cars passing side by side. Total distance from Ölüdeniz is around 25 km.

Lycian Way, a waymarked hiking trail passes through the village, providing a tiresome but peaceful connection with Ovacık, a suburb of Ölüdeniz. It takes a de-tour through the mountains, with many impressive vistas and through hamlets no one—except hikers—has ever been, and gradually loses height for Faralya, once more to go up to mountains and descending this time to Kabak. Most hikers break this 22-km section into two days, with an overnight stay in one of Faralya's guesthouses.

Get around

You can follow the Lycian Way, indicated by red and white painted stones that lead all the way down to the beach, about 20 minutes downhill on a dirt path, and beyond. It will pass by many places to stay, most with restaurants if you want to eat. Another branch of the Lycian Way passes around the upper part of the valley.

There is a dirt road (branching from the main road from Faralya about 2 km away from the village) leading into the canyon and the coast, however if you have any smallest bit of love for your car, avoid driving through that road (think of a rocky downslope where the soft topsoil has all but bulldozed). Instead, you may park your car in the upper village and take a dolmuş down there—they don't have fixed hours (i.e., ready to go as soon as you pay; but you may have to wait for one returning from the coast first) and, regardless of the number of passengers, do have the fixed price of 35 TL, which, if lucky, you may share with fellow travellers waiting for one when you get there. Ask at the grocery store at the upper village for these dolmuşes.

See and Do

Apart from seeing the canyon itself and a number waterfalls—some of which are at the end of remote and narrow footpaths—along the canyon's sides, swimming, and perhaps taking a cheesy yoga course offered by many of the guesthouses on the coast, and if you are fit and are keen on some tough physical exercise, maybe hiking to the next settlement on either direction along Lycian Way, you will not have much else (actually, anything else) to see or do in Kabak. But doing nothing is exactly what Kabak has to offer—and weren't you for that in Kabak in the first place?

Waterfalls

To hike to some great waterfalls, first follow the red and white stone all the way to the beach. From the left side of the beach (looking toward the sea), continue following the red and white stones 20-25 minutes. You will see a big sign (put up by the Full Moon owner, Mustafa) that shows the Lycian Way to the right and waterfalls to the left. You will be able to follow the pipeline and old river until the waterfall. There are six or seven pools successively higher. From the waterfall, you can either return the way you came, or you can follow the red painted stones until that path rejoins the Lycian Way with red and white stones. When it rejoins, going left will return you to Kabak around the back side of the valley, and going right will return you to where the Lycian Way hits Kabak beach.

Buy

There is a small grocery store in the upper village. As you might rightly be expecting, they don't accept credit cards.

There is no ATM in the village either, so bring enough cash. The nearest ATMs are in Ölüdeniz (and a little futher away in Fethiye).

Eat and Drink

You'll have your meals in your guesthouse. Just don't have expectations too big—for the guesthouse owners, a hearty and filling dinner means some local handmade noodles with basic tomato sauce and various green salads, which is welcome if you are a vegetarian. You might even get some fried aubergines and/or squash if you are in your lucky day! In general, you can stop at just about any guesthouse/campground/bungalow area, have a look at their food menu, and decide if you want to eat there. Since many only provide breakfast and dinner, all of them offer food to buy for lunch. If you are not staying overnight, you can easily negotiate a price for dinner.

• Mama's House, (in the upper village). If you are on a day trip to Kabak, this is the most likely place where you will have your quick lunch, consisting of freshly baked Turkish cheese pancake (gözleme), perhaps alongside a cup of tea. Run by a local old lady, the place has a patio at the backside with an outstanding view of the cove below. Also has a pension/guesthouse
• Full Moon, (5 minutes walking down from upper village). You will pass this place if you are walking to the beach. Great owner with a family that grows all of their own fruits and vegetables. You will see the family hard at work in the kitchen preparing incredible food. Also has bungalows and a camp area. For more info, see the 'Sleep' listing below. The 6 TL tuna sandwich is tasty, fresh, and quite large. Fried/chips 5 TL. Prices go up from there. 4-20 TL.

Sleep

Both the upper village and the coastal part have a number of guesthouses, some of which consist of wooden bungalows. Most also offer campgrounds in their yards, although you can wild camp for free on the beach or in the isolated parts of the canyon. Overall, Full Moon is the closest to the dolmus stop, but far from the beach. The rest are closer to the beach, but it's a walk back up to the dolmus stand. Something to consider if you have a heavy pack and you either want to chill in your camping/bungalow area or hang out more on the beach. Follow the red and white painted rocks for the trail all the way to the beach, through which you will pass several locations with bungalows and camping spaces. There are plenty more to find, so contribute if you stay at any of them!

The more local, backpacker oriented places are Full Moon, Reflections, Sultan, and Valley Camp (not Sea Valley). The rest of the places are rented by developers and are having a deleterious effect on the natural environment of the place.

• Full Moon Camp, (5 minutes down the Lycian Way from the bus stand), ☎ +90 252 642-10-81 (fullmooncampinfo@yahoo.com.tr), [1]. Rustic bungalows with great views, delicious home-grown food, and a swimming pool if you don't feel like going to the beach. Free Wifi. You can camp in your own tent on the roof. 20-25 minute walk downhill to Kabak beach. The owner, Mustafa, is from Kabak and truly interested in keeping Kabak beautiful, and fights against big tourism development (he's the one who put the sun shades on the beach and painted the rocks to get to the waterfall). 35/50 TL pp low/high season, including breakfast and dinner. 25 TL/pp (including food) camping in own tent..
• Sea Valley Bungalows, (Follow the red and white painted rocks all the way until the beach. If you contact ahead of time, they can arrange a pick-up.), ☎ 0 252 642 12 36 (info@seavalleycamping.com), [2]. The most up-market place in Kabak with the best location in terms of proximity to beach. Nice pool, internet, manicured lawn, a wide selection of bungalows. Bar on site. Depending on how busy it looks, you can probably negotiate the prices. All bungalows have own shower and toilet, and are of high quality. If you want to wash off after swimming, you could probably use their showers by the pool and no one would say anything. However, that well manicured lawn meant cutting down the beautiful pine forest that used to be on the beach. Interested in profit, but not interested in keeping the rest of Kabak beautiful. Small bungalow: 80 TL/pp, Large bungalow: 100 TL/pp, with own tent: 20 pp, with their tent: 25 TL/pp, only breakfast included.
• Gemile Camping, (Follow the red and white painted trail down from the dolmus stop, 15 min down), ☎ 0 252 642 10 16 (campgemile@gmail.com), [3]. Popular with Turkish tourists. Free wifi. Nice lounge areas and bar, close to the beach. Web site has gallery if you want to look. 40 TL pp with own tent, with their tent w/ bed and blanket: 55 pp. Bungalows range from 55-125 TL pp, see site for more pricing details. All include breakfast and dinner..
• Cabile Camping, (Follow the red and white rocks until the beach, then follow the road up in the same direction as Reflections. On the right.). The sort of place with dread-locked employees. Live music every night at 9. Solid place to pass a few nights. Bed and blanket provided in every tent. You might have to ask around to find this place. Only camping: 30 TL pp incl breakfast and dinner..
• Kabak Valley Camp, (Follow the red and white rocks down to the beach and come back up the road a short walk. You should see signs.), ☎ +90 252 642 10 27, + 90 536 868 83 82 (info@kabakvalleycamp.com), [4]. Nice location, close to beach. Free wireless and plenty of lounge space. Dinner and breakfast included. Along with Full Moon, the owners here are really working to keep Kabak quiet and beautiful. Bungalow en suite: 70 TL pp, Bungalow shared bathrooms: 50 TL pp, Own tent: 25 TL pp..
• Reflections, (Follow the red and white painted rocks all the way to the beach, then follow the road up a few hundred meters, you will see signs.), ☎ 90 539 872 56 50 (contact@reflectionscamp.com), [5]. Part-American owned and listed in the guidebooks. Along with Full Moon, the owners here are really working to keep Kabak quiet and beautiful. Great location close to the beach. Free wifi. Plenty of chillout zones and great food. Breakfast and dinner included. Children 0-6: free - 7-12 %50: discount - 13 and over: normal price. The website has lots of info. 35 TL pp in own tent, 50 TL pp in bungalow.
• Sultan Camp, (Sultan Camp is a 20min walk down the red and white marked path. Shuttles dropping you to our door are also available at a cost from the bus stop.), ☎ 0090 252 642 1238 (sultancamping@gmail.com), [6]. checkin: 24 hr. Only a 5 minute walk to the beach, Sultan Camp has a variety of accomodation options including bungalows with or without toilet and shower, and tent areas (tents available). Delicious breakfast and dinner is included with each accomodation option. Bar, pool, internet, hammocks. Cash or Credit card accepted for balance upon arrival. 2 bed tent: 30 TL pp, single and double bungalows range from 50-120 TL pp, shared and en suite..

Contact

The area code for landline phones in the village is (+90) 252.

Kabak is within the coverage area of Turkey's mobile phone operators.

You're out of luck if you are looking for internet cafes. The only internet available will be at the place you are staying or maybe a cafe you get a drink or food at.

Get out

As far as anything running on wheels is concerned, Kabak is literally the dead end street, as the road coming from Ölüdeniz ends here, giving way to complete wilderness of Yediburunlar (literally "seven headlands") area, the remotest section of Lycian coast.

However, for hikers, the fun has just started yet—the remote mountain hamlets of this rugged (and seemingly inaccessible) area is connected to each other by Lycian Way, which turns and twists on the sides of the mountains, following the coastline from a distance. Within about three days' time, after some (usually quite sharp) descents and ascents, and enjoying vistas which were practically the same thousands of years ago, you will be back to "civilization" on the Patara beach, just south of the modern town of Kınık, or Xanthos, as it was known to ancient Lycians, on the other side of Yediburunlar.