Difference between revisions of "Kabak"
Revision as of 12:30, 26 June 2011
As it doesn't have sufficient population to be designated as a "village", Kabak is officially a neighbourhood of Uzunyurt, and as such, is usually omitted from maps, even quite detailed ones.
Kabak consists of two physically seperate sections: the settlement proper, a small agglomeration of two-story buildings along the road, clinging on a mountainside way above the coastline (though with a view of beautiful Mediterranean), and the cluster of guesthouses below, between the coast and the canyon known as Kabak Koyu, which, with its pine groves, waterfalls, and coastline, is quite similar to much more famous Butterfly Valley of Faralya; however physical access to Kabak Koyu is a little easier than Butterfly Valley, although the relative remoteness of Kabak offsets that.
A heavily winding road connects Kabak with Ölüdeniz, passing through Faralya on the way. However, the paved—but heavily potholed, anyway—part ends at the southern exit of Faralya, and the last 6-7 km to Kabak is a dirt road, although wide enough for two cars passing side by side. Total distance from Ölüdeniz is around 25 km, but don't let this what seems like a short distance fool you—it may take around an hour to drive (which is great for the passengers to enjoy the gorgeous views, though).
There are minibuses (dolmuş) from Ölüdeniz taking the same route. They are relatively frequent, (every 1-2 hours until 19:00 or so). They return to Ölüdeniz at the same frequency.
Lycian Way, a waymarked hiking trail with red and white painted rocks down the beach in Kabak passes through the village, providing a tiresome but peaceful connection with Ovacık, a suburb of Ölüdeniz. It takes a de-tour through the mountains, with many impressive vistas and through hamlets no one—except hikers—has ever been, and gradually loses height for Faralya, once more to go up to mountains and descending this time to Kabak. Most hikers break this 22-km section into two days, with an overnight stay in one of Faralya's guesthouses.
There is a dirt road (branching from the main road from Faralya about 2 km away from the village) leading into the canyon and the coast, however if you have any smallest bit of love for your car, avoid driving through that road (think of a rocky downslope where the soft topsoil has all but bulldozed). Instead, you may park your car in the upper village and take a dolmuş down there—they don't have fixed hours (i.e., ready to go as soon as you pay; but you may have to wait for one returning from the coast first) and, regardless of the number of passengers, do have the fixed price of 35 TL, which, if lucky, you may share with fellow travellers waiting for one when you get there. Ask at the grocery store at the upper village for these dolmuşes.
However, if you have been walking all the way from Ovacık, you possibly won't mind walking for an extra half an hour.
See and Do
Apart from seeing the canyon itself and a number waterfalls—some of which are at the end of remote and narrow footpaths—along the canyon's sides, swimming, and perhaps taking a cheesy yoga course offered by many of the guesthouses on the coast, and if you are fit and are keen on some tough physical exercise, maybe hiking to the next settlement on either direction along Lycian Way, you will not have much else (actually, anything else) to see or do in Kabak. But doing nothing is exactly what Kabak has to offer—and weren't you for that in Kabak in the first place?
There is a small grocery store in the upper village. As you might rightly be expecting, they don't accept credit cards.
Eat and Drink
You'll have your meals in your guesthouse. Just don't have expectations too big—for the guesthouse owners, a hearty and filling dinner means some local handmade noodles with basic tomato sauce and various green salads, which is welcome if you are a vegetarian. You might even get some fried aubergines and/or squash if you are in your lucky day!
It's possible to take a seat and enjoy a beer against the waves in your guesthouse at night (or during the day, if that's your preference).
Both the upper village and the coastal part have a number of guesthouses, some of which consist of wooden bungalows. Most also offer campgrounds in their yards, although you can wild camp for free on the beach or in the isolated parts of the canyon. Follow the red and white painted rocks for the trail all the way to the beach, through which you will pass several locations with bungalows and camping spaces. There are plenty more to find, so contribute if you stay at any of them!
The area code for landline phones in the village is (+90) 252.
Kabak is within the coverage area of Turkey's mobile phone operators.
As far as anything running on wheels is concerned, Kabak is literally the dead end street, as the road coming from Ölüdeniz ends here, giving way to complete wilderness of Yediburunlar (literally "seven headlands") area, the remotest section of Lycian coast.
However, for hikers, the fun has just started yet—the remote mountain hamlets of this rugged (and seemingly inaccessible) area is connected to each other by Lycian Way, which turns and twists on the sides of the mountains, following the coastline from a distance. Within about three days' time, after some (usually quite sharp) descents and ascents, and enjoying vistas which were practically the same thousands of years ago, you will be back to "civilization" on the Patara beach, just south of the modern town of Kınık, or Xanthos, as it was known to ancient Lycians, on the other side of Yediburunlar.