Istanbul/Princes’ Islands

Central square of Büyükada, with the historical harbor building at the back Princes’ Islands (Turkish: Prens Adaları, also İstanbul Adaları, Kızıl Adalar or Adalar; “Islands of Istanbul”, “Red Islands”, and “Islands” respectively) are a group of nine islands off the Asian coast of Istanbul, Turkey. Their name is variously –and incorrectly- spelled also as “Prince’s Islands” or “Princess’ Islands” across the world-wide web. Understand Princes’ Islands take their name from the fact that during Byzantine and early Ottoman period, members of dynasties who fell out of favor were sent to exile there. Until late 19th century, when regular steamer transportation showed up in the seas around Istanbul, these islands were considered remote and far-away places. Apart from the exiled princes, only a handful of monks found these islands inhabitable then, a fact which gives the islands their former name in Turkish: Keşiş Adaları (“Islands of the Monks”). Princes’ Islands consist of four major and five minor islands. Major ones are as follows (from west to east, also from smallest to biggest): Kınalıada, Burgaz, Heybeliada, and Büyükada. Apart from these, only one more island of the archipelago is inhabited, that is Sedef which lies east of Büyükada. The other, unhabited ones are: Tavşan south of Büyükada, Kaşık (between Burgaz and Heybeliada), Yassıada and Sivriada (both lying further away in the sea, southwest of Kınalıada). This article will focus on the four major ones, as public transport to uninhabited islands is virtually non-existant, and much of Sedef is private property with limited access. These islands prove to be a good day-trip especially when you are bored of the crowd, noise, and traffic of Istanbul. Quite a shock is what many travellers experience upon their return to the city, when full-blast car horns are still the way how they were when left behind early in the morning. One of the best times to be on the islands is March: during March, the air is not that cold, the islands are not very crowded and the mimosa trees, which are some sort of symbol of the islands, are in full bloom of their yellow flowers. At weekends during summer (June-Sept), all of the islands are really crowded, and so are the ships. Avoid if you can. If you don’t have time to visit all of the islands, pick Büyükada: it’s undoubtedly the “queen” of the islands. Get in The only way to get to islands is by sea: whether Istanbul liners or fast ferries. From European Side of Istanbul, you can take a boat from Kabataş, while from Asian Side, the piers with a connection to the islands are located in Kadıköy and Bostancı. The most frequent departures are from Bostancı (especially in winter), which also has private mid-sized boat connection to the islands in addition to liners and fast ferries. See Asian Side article for an extensive detail of how to get to Bostancı from more central parts of the city. Almost all ferries call at all four major islands in a row, but sometimes they first call at Büyükada, and other times at Kınalıada. Island names are not announced by voice inside the ships, so be sure to check the large signs on the quays to make sure that the island you are about to step on is the one that you want to step on. Get around Faytons waiting Horses at the ferry jetty On the islands As the motorized vehicles (save for service vehicles like school buses or ambulances) are all banned on the islands, the most popular way of getting around is horse-drawn carriages (fayton), which can be likened to taxis, or the dolmuş, of the mainland. There is a fixed price for every location (in Büyükada, they are announced on the sign in the main fayton stop near the quay). The greatest price is for a total loop (known as Büyük Tur) around the island (length: about 15 km, price: about YTL 45 for Büyükada in April, 2007). Price is per fayton, i.e. not dependent on how much people the fayton carries (but they accept no more than 4, and some horses are not very comfortable with more than 3 passengers). Please note that there are no faytons in Kınalıada, as that island is not big enough to justify taking one. Also renting a bike is another alternative. The fare was about YTL 3.00 per hour in winter, 2005. Most renters require you to leave an official identification to be returned after the payment is made. A student ID may suffice. Some renters distribute a road map of the island free of charge, don’t forget to ask for it. Between the islands All boats operating between the islands and the mainland call at all of the major islands, so you can also take them for island-hopping. See Hagios Giorgios Church (Saint George/Aya Yorgi) is located on one of two summits of Büyükada. After reaching the central point of the island (known as Birlik Meydanı Square), you should climb a steep cobblestoned path on foot to get there (it’s too steep for a fayton, as well as a bike, to climb). It takes about 35-40 minutes. Although the church building itself is unexceptional with nothing really fascinating, the backyard of the church offers some very beautiful sights of the other islands and the sea. On April 23rd every year, which is considered as St George’s holy day, a crowd of seemingly tens of thousands attend the church to make wishes. Wishmaking rituals that day range from usual burning a candle to climbing the cobbled path on bare feet to untying wool balls all along the path. The final part of the path that day is as crowded as a rock concert (except very early in the morning, like 6AM, it’s reported), because police officers let people in in groups of 10-15 at once, to avoid an overcrowding inside the church. If you decide to burn a candle that day keep in mind that nearer the church you are, cheaper the candles being sold around (for example, in 2007 it was YTL 2.00 near the quay, while the going price very near the church was YTL 0.50 per candle). But better of all would be to buy the candle inside the church for a donation (it’s up to you how much to pay) as none of the profit of the candles sold on the streets benefits the church. And a sidenote: Most of the people attending the church and waiting for a blessing from the priest upon exit that day are non-Christian Turks, but there is nothing surprising about that: This is Turkey, where east meets west (and vice versa) and cultures truly mix. On the other summit of Büyükada lies the abandoned Greek Orphanage (Rum Yetimhanesi). Originally built as a hotel in late 19th century, this completely-wooden, 4-story building is the second largest wooden construction in whole world (the largest in Europe). It’s dangerous to enter the building itself (because it’s slowly decaying), and also forbidden. Both the eastern and western side of Büyükada is full of wooden Victorian-style mansions dating back to late 19th/early 20th century, similars of which have been bulldozed in the rest of Istanbul (with the exception of neighborhoods on Bosphorus banks) to make way for concrete, multi-story apartment buildings. The ones on the western side (right side when looking out of quay) seem more splendid. Just don’t be surprised and don’t start looking for them as soon as you get off the ship: Around the quay is more like a town centre. They are located about 15 min walk away from the quay. Do Great/Total Circuit (Büyük Tur, about 15 km in Büyükada): Either by fayton or bike. It’s not as hard as it may sound, except a few slopes. Enjoy swimming (water is not that clean anymore though). Have a picnic in a scenic spot. Buy Eat Alibaba Restaurant, Gülistan Cad. no: 18, Büyükada (in the town centre, on the left side when walking out of the ferry quay), ☎ +90 216 382 37 33 (fax: +90 216 382 36 00). 10AM-1AM. Seafood restaurant in Büyükada. Reservation is advised on Saturdays. Visa, Mastercard and AmEx accepted. Konak Lokantası, Recep Koçak Cad. no: 87, Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382 54 79. Kebab and traditional Turkish cuisine. Visa and Mastercard accepted. Ada Ev Yemekleri, Recep Koçak Cad (walk toward the clock tower as you exit the ferry and take a left at the clock). 10-10. Small quaint resturant run by a family. Features traditional Turkish and Eastern Med cuisine at great prices. Very tasty and an authentic slice of the Islands and Turkish cuisine. very reasonable prices. Drink By Sukru, Gulistan Cad #16, ☎ 216 382 1245. 10:00 3:00. By Sukru is located right on the sea front with a variety of fresh seafood, kebob and vegitarian dishes. You can enjoy live music every Saturday night in the tavern, and for those of you who miss a good T-Bone Steak or Shrimp Scampi you may visit By Sukru's Winehouse. Just minutes away from the pier, By Sukru is easy to get to and one of the most visited restaurants on the island. Reservations are suggested for weekends. (216) 382 1245. For Group or Fixed Menu pricing please call Susan at (532) 700 2211 $20. Sleep Büyükada and Heybeliada both have a limited range of hotels, some of which serve in a boutique style, preferred by many tourists but not spectacularly clean. Mimoza Pansiyon, Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382 74 35 (mimozapansiyon@hotmail.com), [1]. Guesthouse offering rooms with central heating, air conditioner, hot water, and wireless internet. Splendid Palace Hotel, 23 Nisan Cad. no: 53, Büyükada, ☎ +90 216 382-6775 (info@splendidhotel.net), [2]. Located in an Art-Nouveau building which dates back to 1908. Stay safe If you are doing the great circuit of Büyükada, beware of dogs near the cemetery, which suddenly start barking at and chasing you when you are about to re-enter the built-up area in the east of the island if you are circumambulating the island counter-clockwise (or after you have just entered the wooded section if you are doing clockwise). The best reaction is to speed up as much as your legs and the bicycle can endure, they give up after a certain length of chase. This warning is especially true for winter. Also, whether you are a pedestrian or a cyclist, always give way to faytons to avoid dangerous collisions. Don’t be fooled by the absence of motorized vehicles: Always check the road first when crossing. The horses can and do have real high speeds. Contact The telephone code for islands is (+90) 216, which is same with the Asian Side but different from European Side. Get out If you are not going to stay overnight in the islands, don’t forget to take a note of departure times of ships back to the city before leaving the quay building. Ships are less frequent after the night falls, especially in winter. Generally the most frequent line (and the one with the latest departure) is Islands-Bostancı one. From Bostancı, you can take dolmuş or public bus (#112) to Taksim in European Side. (once in Bostancı quay, cross the street, walk straight ahead, cross the pedestrian passage under the railway, climb up the second stairs on the left. You’ll come across a little square, on the opposite edge of it is where dolmuşes and buses to Taksim depart) This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!