Rough-and-tumble East Houston is the city's beating, industrial heart - along with William P. Hobby Airport, you'll find the Houston Ship Channel and working-class neighborhoods (as made famous by John Travolta in the film ''Urban Cowboy') in the shadow of the somewhat alien landscape of oil refineries that line the shores. On closer inspection, though, East Houston is not so easily defined - here is also rich Hispanic culture (and eats!), Houston's namesake university (with surprisingly good student-run hotel and restaurant!), and off-the-wall live theater (bring the kids!).