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Fuzhou

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Northern Coast : Fuzhou
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Fuzhou (福州; Fúzhōu) is the capital of Fujian Province in China.

Districts

Fuzhou urban area consists of five districts:

  • Cangshan District (仓山区; Cāngshānqū)
  • Taijiang District (台江区; Táijiāngqū)
  • Mawei District (马尾区; Mǎwěiqū)
  • Gulou District (鼓楼区; 'Gǔlóuqū)
  • Jin'an District (晋安区; Jìnānqū)

Fuzhou also administers eight counties:

  • Fuqing (福清; Fú​qīng​shì)​ - an industrial town of about half a million
  • Changle (长乐; Cháng​lè​) - with a town and the airport
  • Mingqing (闽清县; Mǐn​qīng​xiàn)
  • Minhou (闽侯县; Mǐn​hóu​xiàn) - several universities have new campuses in this area
  • Yongtai (永泰县; Yǒng​tài​xiàn) - scenic area with waterfalls
  • Lianjiang (连江县; Lián​jiāng​xiàn)
  • Luoyuan (罗源县; Luó​yuán​xiàn)
  • Pingtan (平潭县; Píng​tán​xiàn) - an island

Understand

Downtown Fuzhou and the historic district

Fuzhou is an old port city, Marco Polo visited it. In the 19th century, it exported more tea than any other Chinese port. Today, Fuzhou is the provincial capital and administrative center, and also a major center for light industry. Nike has a factory there, and a Taiwanese firm that makes shoes for Adidas, Reebok and others has four. All are large factories, with several thousand employees each. Fuzhou is right across the straits from Taipei, and there is fairly heavy Taiwan investment. The Fuzhou region, home the the sub ethnic group of Foochow people, has its own unique culture and language (Foochow language), as well as architectural style distinct from other regions in China and Fujian, which can be found both in the city and in the towns and rural areas around it. The city has the oldest wood structure in South China (Hualin Temple) and has one of the largest historic downtown district in China "Three Lanes and Seven Alleys" with over 200 residences from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The area is where mountains and rivers meet the sea. Plenty of mountains and waterfalls are in the hinterland, while sandy beaches are abundant in the coastal areas, especially in the town of Changle and the island of Pingtan.

The actual port is in the suburb of Mawei, which has also been a center for shipbuilding for several hundred years. In 1884, the French destroyed a dockyard at Mawei, sinking a good part of the Chinese navy and killing hundreds. There is a museum to commemorate this. For a more general view of Fujian's seafaring history, visit the Maritime Museum in Quanzhou.

Most of the illegal Chinese immigrants smuggled to Western countries come from the Fuzhou region, with Changle, Fuqing and various more rural areas as the main sources. The trade is largely controlled by the region's "snakehead" gangs.

Get in

By plane

Fuzhou has air links to most other major Chinese cities. The airport is an hour from town, ¥20 by bus. You can get the bus at the Apollo Hotel. There are also complimentary shuttles to the Apollo Hotel from other places such as the Min Jiang Hotel. Shared taxis also go from there, at around ¥25. A private taxi would be at least ¥100, likely more unless you haggle well.

The airport also serves international flights to Hong Kong, Singapore, Osaka and Taipei.

By bus

Direct overnight buses to/from Hong Kong, Shenzhen or Guangzhou exist, with sleeping bunks. ¥220-350, it is usually worth the extra for comfort. Buses from Xiamen are ¥70-90.

By train

The main Fuzhou train station is in the northeast of the city. You can reach it via #5 or #22 city busses, or it is cheap and quick by taxi from anywhere in central Fuzhou. There is also a new Fuzhou South station, located rather inconveniently. A taxi to it will be ¥50 or so from downtown and take about half an hour. The K2 bus runs between the two stations; the cheapest way to the South station if you have time is to go to the main station and take that bus from the parking lot off to your left as you face the station entrance.

A new fast train between Xiamen and Fuzhou is available, leaving from the main Fuzhou station almost hourly, for under ¥100 one way.

There is also a fast train from the South station to Shanghai via various towns in Northern Fujian, Wenzhou, Ningbo, and Hangzhou. Around 6 hours, ¥282 for second class, 330 for first.

Get around

Taxis are cheap, ¥10+ for short trips and under ¥30 for any trip in town. Taxi rates are ¥10 for the first 3km, and then ¥1.4 per km and one more after 11PM. Since 2010 additional ¥1 fuel charge is added to taxi fare. Taxis are more available in the downtown area, and are often hard to get outside there.

Buses are often crowded, but run often and more-or-less everywhere for ¥1. Most are air conditioned. If the bus you require is packed just wait until the next one, or the one after, it should only take 5-10 minutes, being stuck on a dangerously overloaded bus with several dozen/hundred people sweating all over you is an experience best avoided, especially in the summer months. Howver, you should be aware that bus service stops at 10pm, so the last buses are often very crowded and sometimes you cannot get one. Taxis and enterprising drivers will offer group rides from crowded bus stops to other parts of town, usually for ¥15.

See

Three Lane & Seven Alleys
  • West Lake Park (西湖公园, Xihu Gongyuan), (Walk over a causeway to this park on an island in West Lake, located right in the middle of Fuzhou). Attractive urban lake in the center of Fuzhou. Rent paddle or electric boats and explore the lake. Walk over the arching footbridge to to the Fuzhou Science Museum, a small but nice museum featuring dinosaurs. Or, walk around the lake itself, it is surrounded by sidewalks and a boardwalk. As of spring, 2012 they also have Pandas in an enclosure where you can see them.
  • Wuyi Square (五一广场, Wuyi Guangchang). A central square with a huge statue of Mao. Visit at dawn or dusk to watch the ceremonial raising or lowering of the flag by highly trained and immaculate soldiers. Or visit at 6AM-8AM or late on weekends to watch at least half a dozen of martial arts, both armed and unarmed, being practiced. The founder of Uechi-ryu karate, Uechi Kanbun, spent 13 years in Fuzhou, from 1897 to 1910. There are a group on the East side of the park who say their style is what he studied.
  • Gu Mountain (鼓山, Gu Shan; lit.: Drum Mountain), (20 minutes bus ride from town). A Taoist temple houses nationally important archives written in monks' blood as well as superb veggie restaurant. It is a 1,900 meter climb, or a 20 minutes cable car journey to the top.
  • Baiyun Mountain, (Near Gu Mountain). Less heavily trafficked than Gu Mountain. After the grueling top section, you will be rewarded by some genuinely beautiful hospitality and refreshing tea in a cave! Magic. Plus some great views over the city.
  • Wu Mountain (乌山, Wu Shan). Overlooking the main square, a short walk to the hilltop which houses a pretty average temple. However, on the way up there is plenty of entertainment in the form of musicians and singers who congregate here to practice. The White Pagoda is also accessed by the same road behind Mao Tse Dong's statue and worth a look. There are several very good arts and crafts shops at the base of the hill. Haggle for all you are worth to obtain good prices. There is also an excellent Xinjiang restaurant near the top of the road up the hill.
  • Qi Mountain (旗山, Qi Shan). A ¥5 bus ride from Fuzhou plus the last stage in a mian bao chi up the winding 17km road to the site. A forest park with big, waterfalls and stunning views over receding mountain ranges from a vertigo-inducing suspension bridge. All this and monkeys to feed.
  • Three Lanes and Seven Alleys (三坊七巷). This historic district in the heart of the city is one of the largest historic downtown in China, boasting about 268 ancient residences dating from Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911). Most of these residences feature the typical Foochow architectural style, which can only be found in the Eastern and Northeastern part of Fujian. Since 2011, the 10 finest residences require admission fees of ¥15 or ¥20 per person. A combo admission ticket including all these 10 residences is also available for ¥120 (valid for 2 days). Since many of the residences in Three Lanes and Seven Alleys are private residence, tourists may need to ask for the permission from the residents to enter those private ancient residences.
  • Hualin Temple (华林寺), 78 Hualin Road, Fuzhou. Hualin Temple is a Buddhist temple in downtown Fuzhou, which currently functions as a small museum and no longer provides Buddhist services. Built in 964 AD and survived over 10 centuries, this is the oldest wood architecture extant in South China (south of Yangtze River). The temple has a typical Tang dynasty style with simplicity and elegance. Despite its great historic and architectural importance, the site is rarely visited, but it is truly a hidden treasure for serious lovers of ancient Chinese architecture.
Hualin Temple

Do

  • Riley's Club, Yangqiao Road. If pool is your game, you would be hard pushed to find better tables anywhere in China than here. Cheap drinks and open very late too.
  • Fuzhou Fighting Ferrets Football Club. A motley assortment of nationalities who play at Jinshan Wentizhongxin every Sunday at 9:15AM. Like football, only funnier!
  • Paintball, (In Jinjishan Gongyuan, right on top of the hill). Great fun for those masochists among us who enjoy being hit by high velocity projectiles in delicate parts of the body. Not to be attempted in summertime!
  • Walk in traditional architecture street, Nan Hou Jie (South of Xi Hu). Freshly renovated pedestrian street, back into time atmosphere, lots of small alleys to stroll by, great for shopping but avoid overpriced restaurants and bars.
  • Sauna/SPA. Fuzhou is famous for its hotspring, many hotels have sauna and spa. They use to have three different pools, one hot, other boiling (for western standards), and a normal one. Sauna and Turkish bath use to be available, staff gives you all you need. Most of the saunas have massage center with different services (some saunas are known for rather erotic services).


Buy

The most famous handicrafts of the area are:

  • Shoushan stone (寿山石). A unique variety of alabaster found only in Shou Shan(寿山) (about 40km from Fuzhou) used to make name chops and all types of beautiful carving.
  • Lacquer work (漆器). Especially the Fujian bodiless lacquerware(脱胎漆器), considered one of the three treasures of Chinese arts and crafts. It is lightweight, durable, and often lovely. There is a factory on Wuyi Road(五一路).

There are also carvings in wood and jade, paper umbrellas and combs made of ox horn.

You may be offered ivory. Most nations have banned ivory to protect endangered species; do not buy it unless you are certain it is fake. In China, this is quite likely, but it is hard to be certain and it might be harder yet to convince customs officials if you try to bring it home.

  • Electronic Market, Wuyi South Road (In front Apollo Hotel). 9-18. Hundreds of little shops plenty of mobile, Mp3, Mp5, Fake ipod, Fake iphone...Bargain is recommended, but the first price is not as far of the real than in Shanghai. There are also some big stores with real stuff.
  • Powerlong (Baolong), (Just take taxi and say Bao-long). Big mall in Fuzhou, more than 200 shops and cinema. Premium brands are in first floor and have direct access to the street. Inside the little shops use to have fake items and Chinese low cost brands. There are many restaurants like McDonald's, KFC, Jazzy pizza, Kentucky...in the rear part there are small traditional Chinese restaurants, all staff speaking in Chinese, so difficult to communicate with them. Cinema (last floor) and Carrefour (second floor) are available in this mall. There is also a Warhammer hobby store in the lower level B1 with a English speaking owner

Eat

Local specialties include:

  • Yu Wan (鱼丸). fish balls, a Fuzhou delicacy, minced beef and pork inside a fishy flour ball of dough in a thin broth, excellent.
  • Ban Mian (拌面). noodles with peanut sauce, a roadside cheapy
  • Bian Ro (扁肉). a small boiled dumpling, under ¥2 a portion
  • Guo Bien Hu (锅边糊). large steaming hot soft rice noodles inside soup of rice powder and water, hint of shrimp or oyster, under 2 yuan a bowl

Budget

  • Wai Bo Tai, (Just off Yeshan Road). Good menu, cheap, great fresh seafood.

Mid-range

  • Hao Shi Jie (好世界), (on the corner of Ring Road Two (Er Huan Lu) and Yangqiao Road). Very expensive if you go upstairs, but stay on the ground floor and eat the dim sum which is cheap (under ¥250/head) and delicious.
  • Moby Pizza, (On the second floor, northeast corner of Jintai Road and Bayiqi Road opposite McDonalds).
  • Cafe Forum, (on the corner of Ring Road Two and Wushi Road). Good quality meals in a box and reasonably priced coffee, but the service can sometimes be atrocious. Hit it on a good day, it is great. On a bad day, it is dire.
  • Ajisen Japanese Noodles (味千拉面), (Next to bus 8 stop on Bayiqi Road). A great range of noodles and tasty side dishes. Friendly service and pictures in the menu for those who can not read Chinese which is a real Godsend.
  • Lemon leaf, 5F, 66 Hubin Road (opposite the front door of West Lake). Very good Thai food. Featured dish: lemon fish and curry crab. Not cheap, ¥50 per person on average.
  • Roman Holiday, Jiao Tong Road, by the Hong Yun Xing Cheng Apartments (when you arrive near the apartments, there will be an alley on the right side of the street with advertisements of Italiand food, follow them down the alley until you see Roman Holiday on the left), 88902217. 11AM-10:30PM. Likely the best Italian food in Fuzhou. Excellent Pizza, pasta. Also, some good fusion Japanese/Italian/Chinese dishes. Not cheap, ¥50 per person or more if you get drinks.
  • Jazzy pizza, Many locations. Chinese alternative to Pizza Hut, good pizza and cheaper, salads and pasta are ok, too. ¥50-100.
  • Bullfighter, Many locations (In Powerlong (Baolong) mall there is one, other in front of Shangrila). Steak house, you choose one steak and can use the salad and dessert buffet. ¥60-120/person.

Splurge

  • Panevino, Wenquan Park Road (In front of a new (2010) Best Western hotel in Fuzhou, very near to HotSpring Hotel.). Italian food, very good quality for Fuzhou standards. They have a set menu for lunch and dinner. Upstairs there is a good japanese restaurant. Can communicate in English, in which the menu is also written. ¥200-300/person with drinks..


Restaurant zone in the cross between Gutian lu and Baiqi lu (behind Grand Ocean Mall) Near the pagoda you will find a place with a lot of restaurants in Fuzhou, with western and eastern food.

  • Bambino. Good Italian restaurant, cheaper than Panevino. You can also find some Chinese food among the Italian dishes. ¥150-200. Menu in English.
  • Taiyro. Japanese food buffet. Free flow of drinks, sushi, sashimi and teppanyaki for ¥150/person. The sashimi used to be served frozen, not so good but sushi is acceptable and teppanyaki is good.
  • Venue. French restaurant in Fuzhou, and perhaps the only one. More than ¥400/person
  • Mamamya. Another Italian restaurant but not so good, pizzas are small and expensive, salads no good. ¥100 or more per person.
  • Old Shanghai. Typical Shanghainese food, menu only in Chinese but with pictures, less than ¥100/person.
  • Korean restaurant (in Ramada Hotel). One of the best Korean restaurants in city. BBQ in the table and good quality. Try the meat selection and the vegetables. More than ¥200/person.

Drink

  • The Party Bar, Tonghu Road (About 50 meters south of the main gate of West Lake Park). Has cheap beer, free pool table and live music. Popular with locals, sometimes quite crowded or noisy on weekends. Foreigners have stopped going since the tragic murder of Richard Gribble, a 23 year old Australian, by patrons of this bar.
  • Shao Yuan Yi Hao (Baima Road). Has a host of foreign beers, British, German and Belgian as well as fine wines, a few single malts, and beautiful decor and people. Bit pricey, but worth it for the music and atmosphere. It is a beautifully remodelled warehouse, the sort of design you might expect in a Western city or perhaps Shanghai, but unique in Fuzhou.
  • 1-2-3 Bar, Baima Road (Almost opposite Shao Yuan Yi Hao). Cheap beer, convivial atmosphere, sometimes live music, stays open as long as you are drinking/semi-conscious. The sign says 1-2-3, but Chinese pronounce it "do-re-mi" for reasons that are not at all clear.
  • Club Blog Club, 136 Hubin Road. A coffee shop managed by a Western resident that overlooks West Lake.
  • The Pure Drop, Hubin Road (Near West Lake). A lively and convivial atmosphere, cheap, cold beer, live music every night.
  • The Bamboo Bar, (About 200 metres from Shao Yuan Yi Hao nearer to Yangqiao Road). Cheap beer, waterside tables, live football games on TV. Pushy owner, but easily ignored after a couple of beers!
  • Saint Nobody, Beida Road (Near Guxi Church). The most mysterious club in fuzhou with cheap beer and good indie music. An anti-fuzhou look which makes you feel like a traveler lost in an unknown city.
  • Prada, 中国福建省福州市鼓楼区余府巷 中福西湖花园北福楼C区1层 (Near Lakeside hotel), 0591-87110888, [1]. 3:00am. The preferred bar for expats in Fuzhou. Local style, people playing dice and live singers. Few staff speak English, try to get a VIP card from the manager. Main drink is beer but you can order some cocktails. Typically a place where a fight or two is likely to break out. Frequented by gangsters who dislike foreigners
  • Lili Marlens, 中国福建省福州市鼓楼区 古乐路117号-2 (In front of Min Capital hotel, mindu fan dian). Similar to prada. Staff dressed in army style clothing. Manager is friendly and speaks a little english
  • Wooshie Bar, Wusi Road, Gulou, Fuzhou (Near the McDonalds on the corner. Stairs upstairs non descript entrance), +86 591 8785 0151 ‎. Small bar, live music, cheap beer (¥100 for 10), cocktails (¥25 each) and a relaxed atmosphere. Has a country music theme. Great place to go to enjoy something different from the usual fuzhou bar. Couches for free
  • B Boss Club.


Sleep

Budget

There are a number of cheap hotels around the railway station.

Mid-range

  • Ju Chun Yuan Hotel (聚春园大酒店), Dong Jie Kou (A central intersection). Very central for shopping and such. Has a well-reputed Chinese buffet, a KFC and a UBC coffee shop. ¥200-odd a night.

Splurge

There are some nice hotels in Fuzhou:

  • Fuzhou Lakeside Hotel (西湖大酒店), 158 Hubin Road, +86 591 87839888, [2]. Ask for a room with view of West Lake. This was Fuzhou's first five star hotel, now past its prime. Still a lovely location, though.
  • Empark Grand Hotel (世纪金源大饭店, lit.: Golden Resources Hotel), (Off Wushi Road, to the east). Good Macau restaurant on ground floor.
  • Shangri-La Hotel (香格里拉大酒店), (Corner of Wuiyi Square), [3]. 5 star luxury. Try the burger in the lobby if you are tired of Chinese food. Also has a great and (by five-star standards) inexpensive coffee bar with free internet access.
  • Golden Resources.
  • Westin Hotel, WanDa Mall. This western chain has a new hotel at the WanDa Mall next to the river. Very nice accomodations for Westerners and a good location.
  • Howard Johnsons, Mawei District. Don't be fooled by the name - this is not the HoJos you are accustomed to in the US. Very classy hotel with a good western restaurant on the ground floor and an excellent Japanese reestaurant on the second floor.
  • Best Western, Downtown (Near Hot Springs Park). Nice western hotel with soft beds in a good location. Half block to Panevino's (Italian restaurant) and Hot Springs Park.

Contact

The area code for Fuzhou is 591. Westin Fuzhou Minjiang Hotel (福州万达威斯汀大酒店), (On the bank of Fuzhou Minjiang River).Phone: (86)(591) 88111111. 5 star international Brand Hotel in Fuzhou. The 5sense Restaurant has high level Chinese cuisine with imported seafood and meat and western touch.The musicians in lobby bar perform wonderful music in the evening.

Get out

  • Mount Wuyi - scenic area famous for tea, ancient cliff burials and relics of the 3000 years old Minyue Culture. The landscapes here are surreally beautiful.
  • Xiamen - three hours by bus, an hour and a half on the new fast train.
  • Qinyun Mountain - a scenic mountain area about 65km from Fuzhou near the small town of Yongtai. Lots of great walks through river valleys with tons of sub tropical flora and fauna and those ubiquitous waterfalls. Worth an overnight visit.
  • Langqi Island - a 45 min bus ride from Fuzhou, via Ma Wei. On the east of the island there is a splendid beach with few visitors. Cute old ferry takes you there from the mainland for ¥2.
  • Tulou - round earthen houses built for multiple families and easy fortification when two main doors are closed. Southwestern part of Fu Jian Province. Many tourist buses leave out of Quan Zhou and/or Xiamen.
  • Quanzhou - old city between Fuzhou and Xiamen, reachable by bus or train. Around the year 1000 this was the main shipping port for south China and Marco Polo wrote extensively about it when he visited. Good temples and a 1000-year-old mosque, recently rebuilt.




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