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Difference between revisions of "Copenhagen/Northern suburbs"

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inner garden is not open to the public, since it is one of the active royal properties, it still lends grace to the surrounding park, which is quit pleasant, and a good place for a stop if you are touring Mølleåen river.</see>
 
inner garden is not open to the public, since it is one of the active royal properties, it still lends grace to the surrounding park, which is quit pleasant, and a good place for a stop if you are touring Mølleåen river.</see>
  
* '''Brønshøj.''' The suburb Brønshøj is a village dating back to the early middle ages. It is reached by bus 2A, 5A or 350S all stopping at Brønshøj Torv (square). Close by the square is the church from the 12th century, the oldest building still in use is Copenhagen. Brønshøj served as the head quarter for the Swedish army during the attack on Copenhagen in 1659. Many street names between Brønshøj Torv and Bellahøj are named in memory of the war (Svenskelejren - 'the Swedish camp' and Svend Gønges vej). Brønshøj Museum is currently under reconstruction.  
+
* <see name="Brønshøj" alt="" address="" directions="" phone="" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="">The suburb Brønshøj is a village dating back to the early middle ages. It is reached by bus 2A, 5A or 350S all stopping at Brønshøj Torv (square). Close by the square is the church from the 12th century, the oldest building still in use is Copenhagen. Brønshøj served as the head quarter for the Swedish army during the attack on Copenhagen in 1659. Many street names between Brønshøj Torv and Bellahøj are named in memory of the war (Svenskelejren - 'the Swedish camp' and Svend Gønges vej). Brønshøj Museum is currently under reconstruction.</see>
  
 
See also ''Lyngby Tourist Information'', Lyngby Torv 5, 45 88 66 16, [http://www.lyngbyturistinformation.dk/].
 
See also ''Lyngby Tourist Information'', Lyngby Torv 5, 45 88 66 16, [http://www.lyngbyturistinformation.dk/].
*<see name="Bagsværd Church" alt="" address="Taxvej 14-16, 2880 Bagsværd" directions="S-train to Bagsværd" phone="44 98 41 41" url="http://www.bagsvaerdkirke.dk" hours="9-16" price="Free" lat="" long="">Church from 1976 by world famous Danish architect Jørn Utzon.
+
*<see name="Bagsværd Church" alt="" address="Taxvej 14-16, 2880 Bagsværd" directions="S-train to Bagsværd" phone="44 98 41 41" url="http://www.bagsvaerdkirke.dk" hours="9-16" price="Free" lat="" long="">Church from 1976 by world famous Danish architect Jørn Utzon. Especially the interior is striking.</see>
Especially the interior is striking</see>
+
  
 
== Do ==
 
== Do ==

Revision as of 17:18, 6 November 2011

The Arne Jakobsen designed life guard tower on the Bellevue beach, is symbolic for the area

The Northern suburbs is a green suburban district north of Copenhagen. The ghetto of the wealthy, the Whiskey belt; the nicknames are many, and the Northern suburbs is indeed home to most of the city's well off population, but to casual visitors the difference may be subtle, due to the high income equality of Denmark and heavy taxation of the highest earners (up to 69%). The district does however have more than its fair share of royal mansions, meticulously kept parks and golf courses.

Contents

Understand

Originally heavily forested, a heritage still visible today with its many parks, lakes and forest, the area became a favourite excursion destination for city dwellers during the early days of Denmark's industrialization, where trams and trains would be full of people going to the entertainment areas north of the city on Sundays and other holidays - most of the places have since closed down, but the small but charming Dyrehavsbakken amusement park, the oldest still functioning in the world, and the nearby horse racing tracks and surrounding forest continues to draw hordes of city folk on public holidays and weekends, as will a trip on the hundred year old tour Baadfarten ferries sailing on the lakes and canals near Lyngby, will give you a taste of days gone by - these canals and lakes are actually remains of an elaborate defence for the city, where the canals would draw water of the lakes to flood the low-lying areas to thwart would-be invaders.

The industrialization had another lasting impact on the district, as the earliest factories in the country shot up around the Mølleå River using water power to power the mills producing paper, weapons and textiles. But since steam power was introduced only a short time after these factories were build, development turned to back the city, and the area has been superbly preserved and is still surrounded by green forests, and amazingly most of old mills and factories still stand as they did when they were closed down in 19th century.

In the 1970s the old villages were joined together by huge patches of suburbia, the old village houses turning into residences for the wealthiest, and the suburbia occupied by the upper middle class, and bar a couple of minor exceptions, the area have become notoriously well off. The most interesting areas are without doubt the old Lyngby and along the Øresund coast, whereas the rest is mainly residential with little interest to travellers.

Get in

Notes on geography
Locals tend to see this as a string of separate towns, usually called by the name of the nearest S-train station, but there wouldn't be much point in listing each of these separately in a travel guide, as each on its own has little to offer. Visitors should be aware though, that the suburban nature of this district means that the attractions are far between, and it could take up to an hour in public transportation traveling between Charlottenlund and Farum for instance, the names of the "towns" are listed behind the addresses in the listings


The area north of Copenhagen is served by 4 S-train lines, the western area which offer little in the way of attractions are served by lines H/C (towards Frederiksund) and A (Farum). The area to the east where the attractions are centred are served by lines E/B (Holte & Lyngby) and line C (Klampenborg) which runs parallel the coast. For access to the Dyrehaven forest and the amusement park it is also possible, and faster, to take regional kystbanen line (the coastal railway), as it has fewer stops - but be careful as some trains skip Klampenborg station.

All the S-train lines runs every 10 minutes throughout the day and every 20 minutes in the evening. the kystbanen runs every 6-14 minutes for most of the day, in the weekends and after 8PM the service is cut back to every 20 minutes. It takes approximately 15 minutes to get to Hellerup and 20 minutes to get to Klampenborg and Lyngby, the 3 main attraction areas.

By car

There are two highways leading north of city Helsingørmotorvejen (route 19) starts on Østerbro, and runs north roughly halfway between the E/B (Holte) and C (Klampenborg) S-Train lines, just west of the Dyrehaven park to Lyngby and onwards to Elsinore. Hillerødmotorvejen (route 16) starts on the outer part of Nørrebro and runs north approximately half way between the A (Farum) and H/C (Ballerup) S-Train lines to Farum, and onwards to Hillerød. Motorring 3 is a orbital highway around Copenhagen, and connects to the two highways. Strandvejen runs all the way along the Øresund coast to Charlottenlund, Klampenborg and further north.

Get around

The center of Lyngby is walkable. For a physically fit visitor it is also possible to walk to Frilandsmuseet by following the main street. Alternatively to walk to Sophienholm or Dyrehavsbakken. Though these are several kilometers away, you may walk in the green surroundings of the Dyrehaven forest, but it would much for feasible as an enjoyable bike trip. Unlike the central part of the city, it actually does make sense to have your own wheels in the northern suburbs, as some of the attractions, restaurants and hotels are a bit out of the way of bus transportation, which while perfectly feasible, has relatively infrequent departures in the district.

  • Taxi. Taxis are usually lined up at the train stations of Klampenborg and Lyngby, until late in the evening.
    • TAXINORD [1], +45 45 83 83 83, is the local taxi company of the area.

By train

The main mode of transport for locals is the S-trains, and while they are useful getting to and from the city center, they are not that useful to tourists as a way to get around, as they mainly cater to commuters going downtown.

Nærumbanen is a modern light rail line between Lyngby & Nærum, but it wasn't always so. It was originally build to serve the booming industries along the Mølleå river, at the turn of the 20th century. Besides being the best most of transport to reach Frilandsmuseets eastern entrance, Brede Works (at Brede station) and the other mills along the river, it is quite scenic as it runs along the river in a forested area. It is colloquially known as "Grisen" or The Pig in English, from the loud squeaky horn the old trains used to use frequently when crossing paths and roads.

By bus

In the Copenhagen suburbs public transportation is build around the railway network. Almost every bus line begins at a Station, and will usually also end at one. Due to Copenhagen's finger based structure, transportation is centred around lines going to and from the inner city, and jumping between the fingers can be a unusually cumbersome. Below is a section of the most useful buslines in the area.

  • 169 & 179 runs the same ring route, but in opposite directions. And will get you between Lyngby & Charlottenlund stations, but it is rather slow and it may be quicker to take the s-trains to Hellerup and change to the C line to go back north.
  • 191 Is the only option to get to the canoe rental places, and sights in Nybro and Frederiksdal. It runs twice an hour most of the day between Lyngby and Sorgenfri station.
  • 388 is the best option for transportation between the two main attraction areas of Lyngby and Klampenborg, it stops at both stations, and runs along the border of Dyrehaven, but remember to check the schedule as it is fairly infrequent with only 2 departures per hour.
  • 400S Is the best option between Lyngby, Farum and Ballerup. There is no direct connection to Farum, so you'll have to switch to the S-Train in at Bagsværd station, and take the train onwards to Farum, or stay on the bus to go to Ballerup.

By boat

Baadfarten[2]. has been sailing passengers on the Mølleå canal as well as Furesø, Bagsværd and Lyngby lakes, in their famous and charming white boats, for more than 100 years and besides being an excellent way too see the sights in Frederiksdal and Nybro, it is a popular excursion in itself. The oldest of the 6 ferries currently sailing; Princes Alexandrine and Prince Christian was build in between 1896-1896, and thus dating back to the early beginnings, was originally driven by steam but has been modified several times and now uses a diesel engine.

The usual starting point is from the pier in Lyngby, not to far from the station and departs approx. every 40 minutes between 10AM-5PM during summer (early June - mid August), from May to the end of September there is also services on weekends on the stretch between Frederiksdal and Sorgenfrivej. There are 3 regular routes.

  • Lyngby - Nybro - Bagsværd
  • Lyngby - Nybro - Frederiksdal
  • Frederiksdal - Furesøbad (Farum)

On Sundays there are also an additional service connecting Frederiksdal, Birkerød and Holte on the Furesø lake. Tickets are between 35-40 Kr, and a full day ticket can be bought for 110 Kr. The routes are plotted on the map.

See

The sights in this district is mainly suitable for warm summer days, and for visitors with a historical interest, but if those two prerequisites are met a visit here can be incredibly rewarding. Bring your bike on the train though, or bring your patience as the main attractions are located far apart, and public transportation links in the area leaves a bit to be desired. And in the not unlikely event of poor weather, there is still a world class art museum to browse through without getting wet.

Nice House on Frilandsmuseet
  • Ballerup Museum (Ballerup Museum of local History), Pederstrupvej 51, Ballerup (Bus 143 from Ballerup Station to Telegrafvej), +45 44 97 11 13, [3]. Tu-F 10AM-3PM,Su 1PM-4PM. Is actually a small idyllic village outside Ballerup, only made up of a few old thatched roof houses. The museum is housed in 4 of these buildings, with some exhibitions of local history. In another of the old houses Grantoftegård is a ecological farm with a nice restaurant, and a shop with bio-products made on the farm. 30 Kr. (55.734079,12.337984)
  • Brede Værk (Brede Works), I.C. Modewegs Vej, Lyngby (Nærumbanen railway to Brede - interchange with S-trains at Jægersborg Station), +45 33 13 44 11, [4]. Sundays during summer noon-2PM. Guided tours of this complex from industrialization of Denmark. It is a rare display of a preserved full industrial complex from the 18th century, with both the works, homes of workers and leaders, the dining hall, garden and the rich factory owners home to put it all in context. Easily combined with a visit to Frilandsmuseet. Free. (55.794829,12.499974)
  • Danmarks Akvarium (Denmark's Aquarium), Kavalergården 1, Charlottenlund (Bus 14 from downtown or Svanemøllen Station to Jægersborg Allé), +45 39 62 32 83, [5]. 10AM-5PM. As the name might give away, this place hosts over 300 species of nautical life, in more than 70 aquariums, the largest contains more than 85.000 liters of water. Although hardly impressive if you've been to modern mega size aquariums before, it is really good for kids with touching exhibitions, and educative feeding shows.
    Note: Danmarks Akvarium is scheduled to close in late summer/autumn 2012, and will reopen some time in 2013 in a completely different location, Kastrup and a new name: The Blue Planet
    100 Kr. (55.748689,12.585134)
  • Frilandsmuseet (Open Air museum), Kongevejen 100, Lyngby (Bus 184 from Lyngby Station to the Frilandsmuseet stop), +45 33 47 38 55, [6]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM. This open air museum covers a huge green area between Kongevejen and the Mølleå river, in fact it is one of the worlds largest museums in terms of area covered. It houses more than 50 authentic relocated historical farms, houses, and windmills, and sometimes live activities like making butter are performed inside the houses. If your feet gets sore, there are horse drawn carriages to take you around for a fee. Guided tours during Sundays. There are also some good picnic spots and a restaurant. Free. (55.78566,12.489907)
  • Furesø Museums (Furesø Lake museums of local history, Farum), Stavnsholtvej 3 (Walk (10 minutes) from Farum station), +45 72 35 61 00, [7]. Tu-F 11AM-4PM,Su 1PM-4PM. This is a string of 4 museums housed in old historic buildings,3 of them in the small village of Stavsholt. There is one permanent exhibition on Stavnsholtvej 170, which is the immigration museum, showcasing stories about the lives of individual immigrants through the times. The other 3 properties centers around local history, and have shifting art exhibitions as well as local history. Free. (55.815137,12.403012)
  • Gammel Holtegaard, Attemosevej 170, Holte (Bus 193 from Holte Station to Gammel Holtegaard stop), +45 45 80 08 78, [8]. Tu-F 11AM-4PM,Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. Old 18th century palace turned exhibition space, with many good art exhibitions usually on schedule (check their website). Also has a beautiful french inspired baroque garden with arcades, fountains and an embroidery parterre. 60 Kr. (55.828854,12.517188)
  • Lyngby Møllerne (Nordre Mølle, Lyngby), Lyngby Hovedgade 24A (Walk from Lyngby Station), +45 45 88 43 83, [9]. M-Sa 2PM-6PM, except W 4PM-8PM. This is a functioning museum water mill, which also houses Exhibitions about Mølleåen, and the industrial development connected to it. It is a good idea to call ahead, and get a tour since its openings hours seems a bit random. Free. (55.773762,12.498847)
  • Mindelunden, Tuborgvej 67, Hellerup (Take bus 21 from Hellerup station to the bus stop named Estersvej), +45 39 62 14 67, [10]. Jan-Apr 10AM-4PM,May-Aug 10AM-7PM,Sep-Jan 10AM-4PM. Free. Mindelunden is a memorial park in Hellerup where the Danish freedom fighters who died in World War II are buried. The park has among other things a memorial wall, tombs for the victims of the KZ-camps and a shooting range which the Germans used for execution.
  • Ordrupgaard, Vilvordevej 100, Charlottenlund (Bus 388 from Klampenborg station to Ordrupgaard stop), +45 39 64 11 83, [11]. Tu-F 1PM-5PM except W 10AM-6PM,Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. One of Denmark's top art museums, featuring paintings of Monet, Renoir, Dega, Pissarro, Gauguin, Hammershøi, Philipsen, and L.A.Ring. The museum is placed in a nice park, and has recently been extended with a striking building by the famous architect Zaha Hadid. 70 Kr. (55.766902,12.562603)
Sophienholm
  • Sophienholm (Lyngby), Nybrovej 401 (Bus 191 from Lyngby Station to Sophienholm stop), +45 45 88 40 07, [12]. Tu-Su 11AM-5PM except W 11AM-8PM. Is an old manor situated with a nice view over the lakes. There is a restaurant, a small art museum and there is a large garden with an outdoor stage. A nice alternative to the directions given above, is to take the baadfarten ferry's during the summer to the museums own pier. Admission to the art museum: 45 Kr, garden is free. (55.775433,12.457246)
  • Sorgenfri Palace & Park, Kongevejen 8, Lyngby (Bus 184 from Lyngby Station to Sorgenfri Slot stop.), (), [13]. Always open.. While the inside of this palace and its inner garden is not open to the public, since it is one of the active royal properties, it still lends grace to the surrounding park, which is quit pleasant, and a good place for a stop if you are touring Mølleåen river. Free. (55.778803,12.497005)
  • Brønshøj. The suburb Brønshøj is a village dating back to the early middle ages. It is reached by bus 2A, 5A or 350S all stopping at Brønshøj Torv (square). Close by the square is the church from the 12th century, the oldest building still in use is Copenhagen. Brønshøj served as the head quarter for the Swedish army during the attack on Copenhagen in 1659. Many street names between Brønshøj Torv and Bellahøj are named in memory of the war (Svenskelejren - 'the Swedish camp' and Svend Gønges vej). Brønshøj Museum is currently under reconstruction.

See also Lyngby Tourist Information, Lyngby Torv 5, 45 88 66 16, [14].

  • Bagsværd Church, Taxvej 14-16, 2880 Bagsværd (S-train to Bagsværd), 44 98 41 41, [15]. 9-16. Church from 1976 by world famous Danish architect Jørn Utzon. Especially the interior is striking. Free.

Do

The old wooden roller coaster on Dyrehavsbakken
The annual Hubertus hunt is a great spectacle these days.


  • Bellevue Theatre, Strandvejen 451, Klampenborg (Walk 5 minutes from Klampenborg station), +45 39 63 64 00, [16]. Ticket office hours: M-F 3PM-6PM. Stage by the Øresund coast, with a wide range of performances, from international ballet companies over comedy to conventional plays. Lists international performances, relevant for foreign visitors, on the English version of their website. Prices varies, but if you are 4 people under 25, tickets are 60 Kr a piece.. (55.777524,12.590101)
  • Dyrehaven (Officially Jægersborg Dyrehave and literally in English The Deer Garden). is a forest park north of Copenhagen. It covers around 11 square kilometres. The northern boundary is at Jægersborg Hegn (Forest), which until 1832 was part of Dyrehaven. Eremitageslottet is a small royal hunting castle placed on a hilltop in the northern part of the area. There are several event's taking place here throughout the year, The Hubertus hunt[17] the 1st Sunday of November is a huge sporting event with 100's of "hunters" in red jackets on horseback. While the erimetage running event[18], the largest in the country, takes place on the 1st Sunday of October. There are also sometimes theatrical performances in the Ulvedalene (Valley of wolfs, don't worry they're long gone) - check with a tourist information for details.
  • Dyrehavsbakken (colloquially known simply as Bakken), Dyrehavevej 62, Klampenborg (Part of the experience is walking from Klampenborg Station through the beautiful park, or take a horsedrawn carriage from the station), +45 39 63 35 44, [19]. 25-Mar-29 Aug; hours vary but generally 2PM-10PM are safe bets. Is the world's oldest intact still-surviving amusement park, and has a reputation for being more folksy than its downtown rival, Tivoli. While the number of rides are hardly impressive, except for the large wooden "Rutchebanen" (lit. THE rollercoaster) which dominates the park, the atmosphere it gets from the surrounding forest is quite enchanting, and the many old and very traditional pubs and restaurants is the real attraction of the place. Entrance is free. Wristband for all running amusements: 199-219 Kr, Discount booklets with 42 coupons: 210 Kr. (55.775816,12.575086)
  • Experimentarium (Science center), Tuborg Havnevej 7, Hellerup (Bus 1A from downtown or Svanemøllen Station to Tuborg Boulevard stop), +45 39 27 33 33, [20]. M-F 9.30AM-5PM except Tu 9.30AM-9PM,Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. Excellent "hands-on" science museum for kids of all ages. Rich with activities centered around nature and technology, and does wonders teaching complex subject easily through self experimentation. Has changing themed exhibitions (check website for current ones). 135 Kr for adults, 90 Kr for children. (55.726613,12.57923)
  • Klampenborg Galopbane (Copenhagen racecourse), Klampenborgvej 52 (Bus 388 from Klampenborg Station to Krathusvej stop), +45 39 96 02 13, [21]. One of the most beautiful gallop runways in the world. Right at the border, and with great views over, the Dyrehaven park. A few restaurants, a grill with excellent fresh grilled sausages etc., and a picnic area. When there are races on Fridays, it is a good place to go for some beers while watching the races. (55.770843,12.56763)

Paddling down Mølleå river
Mølleåen is small 30 km river, cutting through the northern suburbs of Copenhagen, and offers a unique urban escape, flowing almost entirely through quite forests and parks, but also entirely within the Greater Copenhagen city proper.


Prepare

It is a good idea to call one of the rental places ahead as there is regulations in place limiting the number of canoes available for rent, it is also mandated to have lifejackets for everyone on the canoe - your rental place will supply these for free. It is a good idea to wear rubber boots, flip flops or other footwear that can stand getting wet. Remember to bring plenty of liquids, snacks and food as there are few places to stuck up supplies on route, and remember to bring one of the brochures with a map available for free at the rental place. Since you have to carry the canoe over a few roads at the old dams - you might want to shell out the 20 Kr extra for a set of wheels for the canoe.

Route

After Fursø lake, right next to Frederiksdal's canoe rental outfit, the first stop is the old Frederiksdal mill, the romantic yellow brick buildings, was a paper mill build in 1880. If this is your starting point, you will be paddling down the fortification canal; a part of a string of canals that were designed to flood the low lying areas north of Copenhagen, with water from Furesø lake if Copenhagen ever was to become besieged. On the northern side of the canal, Lyngby marshes is a protected area due to the unique natural environment. After crossing the large Lyngby lake and sailing under the train tracks, you will have to transport the canoe over a piece of land past the cute yellow Lyngby Mills.

Heading north you will have a nice view over Sorgenfri Palace on your left, before another carry at Fuglevad. Onwards you will sail along the Open Air Museum on your left, and a local railway on your right, which used to carry workers to the mills. Next stop is Brede with the impressive Brede Works towering above the dammed lake. Here you once again need to carry the Canoe over the dam. Next dams (and carries) is at Ørholm and Nymølle, the long red building in Ørholm dates back to 1886, and along with mill in Nymølle, it was the centre of the Danish paper industry in the early days of Industrialisation. The forest towering on both sides of the river is nicknamed The Danish Switzerland due to the unusually hilly and steep terrain.

Just before reaching the Motorway bridge, the first sleeping option is the commercial camping grounds of Nærum Camping due north of the river. Continuing you will have around 30 minutes of sailing, before reaching the free rudimentary camping grounds of Stampen start looking for a parking lot on your right, a couple of bends after the water treatment plant. Onwards there is a short carry over Svenskevej road, before you reach the idyllic village of Raadvad in the middle of the Dyrehaven forest. Another industrial centre with an old inn that offers excellent dining (see Rådvad Kro), and a secluded hostel.

From here it is smooth sailing through the beautiful park or forest, until you reach Strandmøllen, a picturesque mill, and the only of the old mills that still houses production. Just north of the damn is another rudimentary camping ground, and right after the mill, you have reached the end of your journey, the water turns salty, as you have reached the Øresund coast.

Sleep

While it’s possible to sail the entire route in a day if you’re physically fit and hurried, It’s possible to overnight at several locations along the river, the offers range from primitive free campgrounds to hostels, and allow you to discover the river at more leisurely pace.

  • Furesøens Teltplads – Primitive free campgrounds with a bonfire space.
  • Nærum Campingplads see entry in sleep section
  • Stampens Teltplads - Primitive free campgrounds with a bonfire space.
  • Rådvad Vandrehjem see entry in sleep section
  • Strandmøllens Teltplads Primitive free campgrounds with a bonfire space and running water


Mølleå River

The small river Mølleåen (literally Mill river) runs through the center of Lyngby near the church. It is possible to follow the river on foot or bike from Lyngby all the way to the sea (Øresund) through park and forest. But an even better option is to rent a Canoe or Kayak from one of places below and sail down the estuary from Frederiksdal or Nybro near Lyngby to the sea in Øresund.

  • Nybro Båd & Kanoudlejning, Nybrovej 384, Holte (Bus 191 from Lyngby station to Nybro Kro stop), +45 45 87 39 19, [22]. Has both row boat, canoe and kayak rental during the summertime. offers pickup and delivery service for a minimum fee of 500 Kr. This place is in the middle of the canal connecting Furesø and Lyngby sø lakes. 100 Kr/hour, two days from 500 Kr, several discounts available. (55.774621,12.468973)
  • Frederiksdal kano & bådudlejning, Nybrovej 520, Lyngby (Bus 191 from Lyngby Station to Frederiksdal stop), +45 45 85 67 70, [23]. Tu-F 10AM-6PM,Sa-Su 9.30AM-6PM. Canoes, kayaks and row boat rentals, This is the outlet closest to Furesøen, Sophienholm and Hotel Frederiksdal. Also has pick up and delivery of Canoes for a minimum of 500 Kr. 100 Kr/hour, multiday trips from 200 Kr/day, several discount packages available. (55.780741,12.446437)
  • Havnehytten, Rustenborgvej 21, Lyngby (Walk 15 minutes from Lyngby Station), +45 45 93 93 69, [24]. 10AM-7PM. This place poses a bit of dilemma, while it is by far the easiest place to get to with public transportation, since it is just a short walk from the S-train station, they don't offer pick up services if you plan to do longer trips. Also doubles as a restaurant. 100 Kr/hour or 380 Kr for full day. (55.773470,12.493317)

Beaches

While the fancy new beaches in the inner harbour of downtown Copenhagen, are definitely more unique and conveniently located - The beaches along the Øresund coast dotted north along the Strandvejen road, following the coast, are where Copenhagerners used to make their escape from hot summer days in the city. And still on warm summer days you see hordes of cyclists making their way north, with towels sticking out their bags, as the inner city "beaches" doesn't quite offer the great green surroundings the northern beaches does.

  • Bellevue Beach, Strandvejen 340, Klampenborg (Walk 4 minutes from Klampenborg station), +45 39 90 06 95, [25]. Copenhagen's own Copacabana, and probably the country's most famous beach, with half a million visitors per year. Wide (but packed on sunny days) sandy beach and a large grassy area. Toilets, Icecream kiosk, beach volleyball fields, and 3 piers. (55.776308,12.591619)
  • Charlottenlund Fortress, Strandvejen 144, Charlottenlund (Bus 14 from Svanemøllen Station), +45 39 62 36 88, [26]. Nice beach with a huge grassy area for oozing in the sun, and a narrow strip of sand before the calm waves of Øresund. There is also a large pier with better facilities (Charlottenlund Søbad[27]) but it has a 20 Kr entrance fee. The old fortress behind the beach has a camping ground (see sleep section). (55.747382,12.588959)
  • Furesøbad, Frederiksborgvej 101, Farum (Bus 500S from Værløse station to Fiskebæk kroen, or the Baadfarten ferries), +45 20 10 02 90, [28]. Is a artificial sand beach and Marina in the Furesø lake, there are lifeguards stationed here during the season, and the restaurant has great view over the lake, and is a good option for a brunch if you're in the area. Also a small kiosk for ice cream etc. and a pier for the baadfarten ferries.
  • Frederiksdal Fribad, Frederiksdal Badesti 1, Virum (Bus 191 from Lyngby Station to Furesø Parken stop), +45 22 34 71 71, [29]. Is a cozy sand beach near the canoe rental place in Frederiksdal. It is kid friendly with lifeguards keeping watch. There is both shallow water for the kids, and a pier out to the deeper water in the Furesø Lake. Excellent spot for a picnic on the grassy areas and there is also a restaurant (see listing in eat section) and ice cream shop. Free. (55.785002,12.443706)
  • Hellerup Strandpark, Strandparksvej, Hellerup (Bus 1A from downtown or Hellerup Station to Hellerupvej), +45 39 98 81 10. This small beach,marina and park is hidden away at the end of a residential street of Strandvejen street. While the beach here is not as good as the other beaches in the area, it is less crowded and closer to the city. The small marina is open to visiting yachts, and there is cluster of Tennis courts right behind it. (55.73272,12.582296)

Events & Festivals

  • The Hubertus hunt [30] Is a modern continuation of the traditional par force hunts that has been held in Dyrehaven park for hundreds of years, but the game have now been replaced by two riders wearing fox tails on their backs. It is an annual spectacle with almost 30.000 spectators watching the 50 odd riders wearing fancy deep red jackets, ride through a challenging course. Most of the spectators head straight for the Magasin dam, where the riders pass through a water obstacle, and 5-10 riders usually makes a involuntary but spectacular plunge into the freezing water. Takes place in late October or early November, contact a tourist information desk for details.
  • The Erimitage run [31] Is the worlds oldest fun run, where 19000 runners challenge themselves on a 13.3 kilometre course through the beautiful Dyrehaven park, and have done so every year in early October since 1969. If you plan to attend it is a good idea to reserve a spot ahead as there is cap of 19.000 participants for logistical reasons and considerations for the wildlife in the park, Send an email to elob@ultimate.dk to secure yourself a place on the starting line.
  • Midsummer night by Lyngby lake Midsummer night, is known in Denmark as Sankt Hans aften (St. John's Eve) and takes place on June 23rd every year. It is celebrated with large bonfires to ward away evil spirits, which has been tradition since the Viking age. A more modern addition is to put a a straw witch on the bonfire, and send her back to Bloksbjerg (a mountain in Germany). The bonfire at Folkets Park (by Viggo Stuckenbergs Vej) facing Lyngby lake, is one of the most popular in the area, with many spectators, speeches and musical performances.
A couple quietly paddling down the Mølleå river in early spring.

Sports

Since you're in the posh suburbs anyway, might as well go "all in" and head for a game of golf. They are all excellent options.

  • Københavns Golfklub, Dyrehaven 2, Lyngby, +45 39 63 04 83, [32].
  • Værløse Golfklub, Christianshøjvej 22, Værløse, +45 44 47 21 28, [33].
  • Søllerød Golfklub, Brillerne 9, Holte, +45 45 80 17 84, [34].

Or if you are more into spectator sports, Football, or soccer as it would be for North Americans, Australians and Kiwis, are by far the most popular - Farum is host to the premier division club FC Nordsjælland.

  • Farum Park Stadium, Farum Park 2, Farum (Bus 333 from Farum Station to Ganløsevej stop), +45 44 34 25 00, [35]. The 9800 seat stadium is newly build at well equipped, hosts FC Nordsjælland games approximately every 2nd Sunday or Monday. 125-175 Kr.
  • Lyngby Stadion. Lyngby Stadion is a football stadium in this district and home to the club Lyngby BK which has promoted to Superligaen in the 2010-11 season. The home games of Lyngby BK take place in the weekend from July to December and from March to May. The stadium is known for its sausages which should be the best in the country.

Learn

  • Technical University of Denmark, Anker Engelunds Vej 1 Lyngby, 4588 1746. Technical University of Denmark or DTU in its shortened form is a technical university located in Lyngby north of Copenhagen. The educations are primarily engineering educations and the university is known for its social life.

Buy

Malls

  • Lyngby Storcenter, Klampenborgvej 232, Lyngby (Walk 8 minutes from Lyngby Station), +45 45 27 77 77, [36]. M-F 10AM-7PM,Sa 10AM-4PM. Is a large shopping mall in central Lyngby, with more than 120 shops, restaurants and supermarkets over 34.100 m². (55.77199,12.506465)
  • Magasin Lyngby, Lyngby Hovedgade 43, Lyngby (Walk 8 minutes from Lyngby Station), +45 45 88 44 33, [37]. M-Th 10AM-7PM,F 10AM-8PM, Sa 9AM-5PM. This smaller sibling of the famous department store on Kongens Nytorv, is located right across from Lyngby Storcenter, and is more of a classic department store, then it is more mall like competitor on the other side of the street. (55.770225,12.505306)
  • Waterfront Shopping, Tuborg Havnevej 4, Hellerup (Bus 1A from downtown or Svanemøllen Station.), [38]. M-F 10AM-7PM,Sa 10AM-4PM. Newly build shopping mall on the waterfront of the newly erected Tuborg area, near the Experimentarium museum. Mainly high-end shops. (55.726971,12.581148)
  • Holte midpunkt, Holte Midtpunkt 23, Holte (Walk 8 minutes from Holte station), +45 45 42 45 95, [39]. M-Th 9.30AM-6PM,F 9.30AM-7PM,Sa 9.30AM-3PM. Mall in central Holte with speciality stores, two supermarkets and a library with internet access on the 3rd floor. (55.811667,12.471667)

Shops

  • Designers Network, Strandvejen 179, Hellerup, +45 39 62 30 10, [40]. (55.73388,12.575255)
  • EGO:ECO, Strandvejen 169B, Hellerup, +45 45 93 14 00, [41]. M-Th 10AM-6PM,F 10AM-7PM,Sa 10AM-2PM. (55.733071,12.57504)
  • Gad Lyngby, Lyngby Hovedgade 23, Lyngby, +45 45 87 12 40, [42]. M-Th 9.30AM-6PM,F 9.30AM-7PM,Sa 9.30AM-4PM. Danish book stores tend to be rather small, but this one a decent size and some English paperback titles available.
  • Stole Kompagniet (1000 Chairs), Callisensvej 2-4, Hellerup, +45 39 61 19 44, [43]. M-F 10AM-5.30PM,Sa 10AM-2PM. (55.729738,12.576232)
  • Svane Apotek (Lyngby Pharmacy), Lyngby Hovedgade 27, Lyngby, +45 45 87 00 96, [44]. M-F 8.30AM-8PM,Sa 8.30AM-5PM. One of four 24 hour chemists in the city, outside regular opening hours there is a 15 Kr service fee.
  • Zero, Strandvejen 149, Hellerup, +45 39 62 33 07. M-Th 11AM-5.30PM, F 11AM-6PM,Sa 10AM-2PM. (55.730978,12.575953)

Eat

The idyllic village of Raadvad in the middle of the forest

Northern Copenhagen offers some stellar options for dining. While the listings below can be a bit cumbersome to get to, they have been selected because they offer a unique atmosphere special to the district, many back from the day when the area was covered by forest and dotted by small villages. Check their websites and you will discover that most of these restaurants are old inn's, housed in white chalked buildings, thatched roofs, and green surroundings. It is certainly not cheap - even though basic dishes on many of the listings below often hovers around 150 Kr, expect the final bill to be much higher. Even then, the quality food, and unique environments, should make the extra cost and transportation time worthwhile.

  • Brede Spisehus, I.C. Modewegsvej 1, Lyngby (Nærumbanen railway to Brede - interchange with S-trains at Jægersborg Station), +45 45 85 54 57, [45]. Tu-Sa 11.30AM-23PM,Su 11.30AM-3PM. This restaurant close to Brede værk and the open air museum, was the original canteen for the workers at the mill factory, and has been serving food in the current house for more than 100 years - and still has the gas lamps and a beautiful glass ceiling as it did when it was build. In good weather there is outdoor serving, of the french inspired menu, with view over the picturesque lake. Set menu from 265-335 Kr, and main courses from 198 Kr. (55.794197,12.500478)
  • Den Gule Cottage, Strandvejen 506, Klampenborg (Walk 5 minutes from Klamborg Station), +45 39 64 06 91, [46]. Tu-Sa noon-2PM & 4PM-11PM. This tiny restaurant is superbly located on a large patch of grass, between the blue Øresund sea and the green Dyrehave park, in an idyllic small yellow half timbered house with thatched roof, which used to work as porter's lodge for the surrounding entertainment area in the 19th century. The chef is trained in France which shows on the menu - which also shows connection with the nature surrounding the restaurant. Not much space, and few tables, so book ahead. Set menus from 465 Kr. (55.779676,12.590407)
  • Den Røde Cottage, Strandvejen 550, Klampenborg (Walk 11 minutes from Klampenborg Station), +45 39 90 46 14, [47]. Tu-Sa noon-midnight. Housed in an old red brick building, which used to serve as a forest ranger residence, this place was turned into a restaurant in 1996. The menu is a mix of Danish and French inspirations, and the food is good. If you're out for romance, you can order a horse carriage to pick you up after dinner, and take you to Dyrehavsbakken, if you call and arrange this ahead. Mains from 145 Kr, discounts on set menus. (55.782954,12.590750)
  • Frilandsmuseets Restaurant, Kongevejen 100, Lyngby (Bus 184 from Lyngby Station to the Frilandsmuseet stop), +45 45 85 34 80, [48]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM - only in season.. The restaurant is in connection with the open air museum, and is an convenient location for a brunch or lunch if you are visiting the museum, and the setting is quite beautiful. Has gotten some harsh review on their service though. (55.785458,12.490074)
  • Nybro Kro, Nybrovej 376, Lyngby (Bus 191 from Lyngby station to Nybro Kro stop), +45 45 87 01 49, [49]. noon-9PM. A very traditional Inn from the turn of the 20th century, now only functioning as a restaurant, with white chalked walls and thatched roof. It' possible to sit outside and eat in the garden. Menu and crowd is as Danish as they come. Good option if you've been canoeing as it is very close to the Nybro Canoe rental place. Mains from 245 Kr. (55.774992h,12.466473)
  • Peter Liep's Hus, Dyrehaven 8, Klampenborg (Walk or take a horse carriage from Klampenborg Station), +45 39 64 07 86, [50]. 10AM-6PM and until midnight during dyrehavsbakken's season. This charming old white building, is in the middle of the forest right near the entrance to Dyrehavsbakken, It has been serving food to the guest of the forest since 1888, and takes its name from the hunter who opened it back in the days. Middle of the road cuisine, but the deer - fresh from the surrounding forest, is recommended. Mains from 108 Kr. (55.777540,12.577275)
  • Restaurant Charlottenlund Fort, Strandvejen 150, Charlottenlund (Bus 14 from downtown or Svanemøllen Station to Constantia stop), +45 39 62 22 63, [51]. Closed for renovations, reopens September 2009. (55.744827,12.586212)
  • Restaurant Jacobsen, Strandvejen 449, Klampenborg (Walk 5 minutes from Klampenborg Station), +45 39 63 43 22, [52]. Tu-Sa noon-3PM & 6PM-10PM, Sunday Brunch noon-3PM. This restaurant fittingly pays tribute to one of the greatest of Danish architects Arne Jacobsen, since it is located in one of his main works. The interior is also dotted with Arne Jacobsen furniture. Danish/French cuisine, and a good wine menu. Mains from 105 Kr. (55.777595,12.590244)
  • Restauranten ved Frederiksdal Fribad, Frederiksdal Badesti 1, Lyngby (Bus 191 from Lyngby Station to Frederiksdal stop), +45 45 83 81 85, [53]. 5PM-10PM. A hangout for locals in nice weather, is this restaurant located right next to the lake bath of the same name. While there is a few tables indoors, the real attraction is the outdoor tables by the lake, where you can dine till you drop with food from the barbecue. All you can eat buffet 198 Kr. (55.785313,12.444565)
  • Rådvad Kro, Svenskevej 52, Lyngby (Bus 182 or 183 from Lyngby Station to Rådvad stop (note! very few buses per day)), +45 45 80 61 62, [54]. Tu-Sa noon-3PM & 6PM-9PM,Su 10AM-3PM. Almost running on its 150th year, this old inn is outstandingly located, near one of the old mills on Mølleå river, in the middle of the forest. The menu is modern - yet classic - Danish cooking, with the menu changing along with the seasons. Offers cooking courses if you arrange this ahead. Mains from 125 Kr. (55.806708,12.559433)
  • Søllerød Kro, Søllerødvej 35, Holte (Bus 195 from Holte Station to Søllerød Kro stop), +45 45 80 22 70, [55]. Tu-Su noon-3PM & 6PM-10PM. Is another old inn, turned restaurant. A romantic setting on the edge of a forest, by a lovely old church and village pond, topped of with a view over a small palace.While expensive, it is one of the top restaurants in Copenhagen, and has a shiny star in the Michelin guide to prove it. One the most extensive wine menus in the country, and the service is usually top quality. Mains from 295 Kr. (55.81353,12.495258)
  • Kongekilden, Enghavevej 8, Klampenborg (Bus 388 from Klampenborg Station to Røde port stop), +45 39 63 31 01, [56]. W-Su noon-3PM. Is a lunch restaurant in the Dyrehaven park, it is housed in charming red brick building dating back to the 18th century, which used to be the home of a forest ranger. Traditional Danish lunch with rye bread, salmon and cheese as well as some excellent cakes. Brunch 128 Kr, Lunch platter 168 Kr. (55.772135,12.560361)

Ice cream

The suburbs north of Copenhagen have many great ice cream stores. The most well-known is probably Lydolph's Isbar on Strandvejen (Beach Road) which has big ice creams and long queues in the summertime. There are also many Paradis outlets in this district.

  • Lydolph's Isbar, Strandvejen 167, Hellerup, 3962 7747. Open from March to September. This is probably the most well-known ice cream store in this district. It is located near Øresund and often attract long queues in the summertime. They are known for their large ice creams including the Lydolpher which is the largest of them. On the first day in the season they give away free soft ice.
  • Paradis, Hellerup, Gentofte, Lyngby and Søborg. Paradis is a chain of ice cream stores in Denmark. Unlike the most ice cream stores the ice cream is made naturally and sometimes has some special flavours. The ice cream can be bought in either a cone or a tub, but also in large boxes. The store also offers milkshakes made of ice cream.

Drink

If you headed north of downtown to drink in this district, you would be heading in the opposite direction of everyone else who crowd the late trains, to head for the nightlife in the center - or to put it a bit more bluntly, don't! If you are based in the Northern suburbs there are night buses once an hour on weekends to take bring you home safely from the watering holes of the inner districts. However, usually, in weekends and on Thursdays, many events and parties are held various places on the Technical University of Denmark (DTU) campus.

Another option in the summer is to head in the direction of Dyrehavsbakken (see listing in the do section), or stay there for eating if you're in the area. There are quite a lot of options; Ølgod is a Tyrolean style bierhalle, a bit tacky, but a potential for a lot of fun if you don't take yourself to seriously. Bakkens Hvile is a veritable institution in Danish culture, where the Bakken girls have been entertaining the crowd with singing, flirting and dancing in Danish cabaret style for as long as anyone can remember. Any of the other options are easy to find on weekends, when the crowd can get a bit rowdy, but usually in an innocent and hugely entertaining way.

  • Post Pub, Lyngby Hovedgade 78, +45 45 88 64 00, [57]. M-Th 11AM-midnight,F-Sa 11-AM-1AM,Su 11AM-10PM. No cover charge.
  • Templet, Jernbanevej 16, +45 45 87 44 97, [58]. Often live music friday and saturday. From 50 Kr and upwards.
  • Club Stahlwerk, Brønshøjvej 6, Brønshøj, +45 38 81 66 22, [59]. 11PM-5AM, but no regular schedule (check website). A club for alternative music in genre's like synthpop, dark wave, and industrial, in the basement of a cafe. Only open when events are taking place, so check dates on their website (in English). Usually 50 Kr.

Sleep

Budget

  • Rådvad Vandrehjem (Danhostel Lyngby Vandrehjem), Rådvad 1 (Bus 182 or 183 from Lyngby station stops here a few times every day.), +45 45 80 30 74, [60]. Really out of the way place in the middle of the forest, on the Mølleå river, in a house which used to be a boarding school dating back to 1917. If you really want to escape the rush, this idyllic village is a good option. You better have a canoe and your own wheels handy though, as the bus only goes here 5 times a day. Otherwise it is a 20 minute walk through the forest to the nearest bus stop that sees regular traffic. Dorm beds 125 Kr, rooms from 390 Kr. (55.805584,12.560002)

Mid-range

  • Gentofte Hotel, Gentoftegade 29 (Walk 10 minutes or take bus 179 from Gentofte station or take bus 176 straight to the door from Gentofte Station), +45 39 68 09 11 (), [61]. This Inn is teeming with traditions, tracing it roots more than 400 years back, to 1687, but don't worry - it has been thoroughly renovated, and has an up scale feel to for the price. Also houses a rather good a la carte restaurant. Singles from 630 Kr. (55.748163,12.541218)
  • Hotel Fortunen, Ved Fortunen 33 (Bus 388 from Klampenborg station to Ermelundsvej stop), +45 45 87 00 73 (no email), [62]. A small hotel, in charming yellow brick building from the 1930's. it is at the entrance the huge Dyrehaven park, and many rooms have windows facing the park, with an old fashioned 30s feel - you'll be the judge whether that is good or bad (pictures on the website). Also doubles as a solid traditional restaurant. Rooms from 425 Kr with shared bathroom. (55.775098,12.544557)
  • Hotel Postgaarden, Gammel Jernbanevej 18, Lyngby (Walk 5 minutes from Lyngby station), +45 88 10 22 (), [63]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. Cheap hotel in central Lyngby, all rooms either share bathroom with other rooms in the wing, or 2 rooms share one in the new wing. Has 2 shared kitchens for cooking, and wireless internet in all rooms. The key holder is at the Post-Pub (see drink listing) Singles with shared bathroom from 425 Kr. (55.768864,12.505274)
  • Schæffergården, Jægersborg Allé 166, Gentofte (Bus 179 from Gentofte station to Jægersborg Kaserne stop), +45 39 77 28 00 (), [64]. Excellent option for the price, this hotel and conference center is housed in big baroque mansion from 1755, in quite neighbourhood. Nice views over the large park on the property - you can even arrange a picnic with row boat in the dam. Also home of a nice restaurant. Singles from 895 Kr. (55.763885,12.534735)

Splurge

  • Comwell Holte, Kongevejen 195C (Bus 334 from Holte station to Vasevej stop), +45 45 47 74 00 (), [65]. A 87 room hotel and conference centre in green surroundings, mainly catering to business customers, but private guests are welcomed. Nice and modern rooms, and a big terrace for outdoor dining and drinking in summer. Singles from 1230 Kr, breakfast buffet included. (55.829988,12.457305)
  • Scandic Eremitage Hotel, Klampenborgvej 232 (Walk 5 minutes from Lyngby station), +45 45 88 77 00 (), [66]. Part of the Scandic chain of hotels, which is one of largest mid-range hotel-chain in Scandinavia, and housed in the same building as the Lyngby Storcenter mall (see listing in buy section), the hotel have recently been renovated. From 1495 Kr, but there are usually promotional offers on the website. (55.77199,12.506465)
  • Hellerup Park Hotel, Strandvejen 203 (Walk 15 minutes from Hellerup station, or take bus 14 from downtown or Svanemøllen station), +45 39 62 40 44 (), [67]. Up scale hotel in classical mansion just of the main street in Hellerup, in a beautiful park. Shared facilities are top notch, but the standard rooms are rather crammed for the price and the furnishings are classic, some might call them outdated. Free wireless throughout the hotel, and internet terminals available at every floor. Standard singles from 1367 Kr. (55.737305,12.57484)
  • Sinatur Hotel Frederiksdal, Frederiksdalsvej 360, Lyngby (Bus 191 from Lyngby station to Frederiksdal stop), +45 45 85 43 33 (), [68]. Conference hotel in a striking white building from the 60s - and with 60 rooms, all with a beautiful view over the Mølleå river and green surroundings. Extra amenities include table tennis, billiards, sauna and a bar. Singles from 1095 Kr. (55.781835,12.446308)
  • Skovshoved Hotel, Strandvejen 267, Charlottenlund (Bus 14 from downtown or Svanemøllen station to Skovshoved Hotel stop), +45 39 64 00 28 (), [69]. Historic beach hotel with more than 350 years on its back, but has recently been thoroughly renovated. Most of the 22 rooms have fantastic views over the Øresund strait. The restaurant has a the Michelin stamp of approval, and is a destination in its own right - excellent but expensive. Singles from 1300 Kr. (55.758357,12.595798)

Camping

  • Camping Charlottenlund Fort, Strandvejen 144 B, +45 39 62 36 88, [70]. Camping inside the old fortress grounds, complete with canons and the works. Right by the beach of the same name.
  • Nærum Camping, Langebjerg 5, Nærum, +45 45 80 19 57, [71]. Well equipped camping grounds, which also rents out small huts. Good stop if you're touring Mølleåen. (55.80934,12.529489.)
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