Chocó : Capurganá
Surrounded on three sides by dense jungle, Capurganá is the last town of any reasonable size on the Colombian Caribbean coast before the border with Panama. A sleepy little place with a laid-back atmosphere, it is popular with Colombians, but is only just starting to put in an appearance on the Gringo trail; mainly because it is the last place on the coast with a DAS office where you can get stamped out of Colombia.
If you are passing through, Capurganá is a great place to spend a few days relaxing and savouring one of the few places left with no cars (there are no roads to Capurganá, so the only form of land-based transport there are horses or bicycles). It has a couple of small beaches (although with strong currents, so take care when swimming), and is a great place for snorkelling.
There are numerous hotels and restaurants scattered throughout the place, so there are plenty of options for the budget traveller (who are likely to arrive on the bone-shaking launches from Puerto Obaldia or Turbo), as well as more up-market choices for those who can afford to fly in.
Capurganá has an airstrip and tiny airport, from which a couple of companies provide regular and charter flights from Medellín:
Several places provide internet services.
There are launches to Turbo leaving everymorning (49,000 COP). There is an office selling tickets on the sea front where you can reserve your ticket the day before. Launches to Puerto Obaldia depart when there are enough people to fill them (25,000 COP). If the office is closed, ask around to find Marcelino, almost everyone will be able to point you to the right person. Days when the plane is coming to Puerto Obaldia, the boat leaves early enough so that you can make the connection with the plane on the same day, you don t need to travel a day before and spend a night there as it s not very tourist orientated.
It is possible to walk to the town Sapzurro on the border with Panamá, with an almost perfect circular bay.