Les Arnelles, (450m outside of the St-M-dl-M, on the left side of the road just after Le Pont Des Bannes hotel). Bar 8am to 11pm
When staying in a touristy city like Saintes Maries de la Mer, it can be difficult to impossible to find a place for a good dinner with anything beyond fried chips and over-grilled meat.
However, if you have a car to drive out, and ideally an Internet connection to perform a research, here are some tips for finding a good place with a cuisine close to genuinely local. Even if listing of specific places in your guidebook gets out of date, these tips will last longer (at least until restauranteurs decide to counterfeit them). Neither will guarantee anything, but at least improve your chances:
a place should be remote enough to require a dedicated trip. The only reason anyone should eat there is because the food is good. In this case, don't be put off by lack of customers.
menu lists most local specialties, and even better nothing from outside the region
ferme auberge, an official government program. Members usually show good fidelity to local cuisine, though limited menu selection.
member of Conservatoire des Cuisines de Camargue, society for the preservation of true Camargue cuisine
seats by reservation only
offering table d'hote (guest table), which is like eating in somebody's home--which is usually many times intensely local (expect limited or no menu selection, however)