Alaverdi is a city in Northern Armenia. The largest city in the Debed Canyon of Lori, an area rich with historical monuments and natural beauty, Alaverdi is your best bet for refueling, getting supplies or finding other things you'd expect in a town. The town itself has little to offer of historic value, save for the beautiful old foot bridge, since it was built as a mining town, a fact which you won't be able to miss as you go past the massive mining works. The mine once wreaked massive environmental damage, which stopped for a while with the collapse of the USSR, but now it has restarted, albeit on a much smaller scale. You can drive to the Sarahart suburb, which is on top of the canyon cliffs, or you can walk up the ancient foot path which is past the aforementioned bridge. The funnest, and perhaps most dangerous option though is the funicular, which takes the miners to and from work. Sarahart is adjacent to Sanahin Village, with the famous monastery, and the museum to the Migoyan brothers, with their extraordinary accomplishments of worldwide significance.
Although accommodation options are somewhat limited, making the decision to stay a few nights in the area will allow you to much better appreciate and explore what Armenia has to offer, without sitting in a car all day back and forth from Yerevan.
Minibus/vans from Vanadzor depart daily, and almost all transport to and from Tblisi passes through this town. There are taxis and transport to other parts of the country as well.
Taxi, foot, funicular.
Sanahin Monastery, Sanahin Village (Above Alaverdi in Sanahin Village). UNESCO world heritage site, and for good reason. This wonderland of incredibly well preserved Armenian architecture has stood for almost a thousand years, with little change. You can almost feel how the place must have been buzzing with activity. Sayat Nova, the famous bard, used to sing here.
Haghpat Monastery, Haghpat Village (6km north of Alaverdi). Part of the same UNESCO site as Sanahin, you'll have a hard time choosing a favorite. The labyrinth of passages, chambers, khachkars and views will leave you wondering how this masterpiece was built.
Odzun Basilica Church, Odzun Village (8km southwest of Alaverdi). A huge basilica, which has withstood the tests of time for 1,300 years, the church in Odzun is a beauty. There is an interest memorial on the site with carvings telling a story, and a large village surrounds the church.
Horomayri Monastery, near Odzun. This is an incredibly well camouflaged monastery on the slope of the cliffs, just 1km south of Odzun. To get there, climbing up from the highway along the Debed River is probably quickest, but hiking south across the cliffs from the last switchback to Odzun is easy as well. The tough and quick way is descending the cliffs from 1km south of Odzun.
Akhtala Monastery, Akhtala Village (20km northeast of Alaverdi). This beautiful fortified monastery has exquisite frescoes, large fortifications, great carvings, and interesting ruins. Not many visit it yet, but that will likely change in time.
Kobayr Monastery, Kober Village (12km south of Alaverdi). The partially collapsed church once had magnificently exposed frescoes - which are now being covered again as the complex is restored. The setting is really nice, as are the views. Well worth the 15 minute walk up the slippery wet slopes of the canyon.
S. Grigori Monastery, Just south of Tumanyan town, north of Dsegh village (trail starts at confluence of Debed and Marts rivers.). Trails to Surp Grigori can be accessed from both the highway below it, or the fields above the cliffs. The hike is a little longer from below, but the road is much better, shorter and easier to find. This one has much more of the lost to time feeling, and due to the hike, and the very few that venture out here, you'll likely have it to yourself. If it weren't for the graffiti, the feeling you just discovered beautiful ruins in the jungle would be hard to shake.
Khorakert Monastery, Jiliza Village. A long, hard trek from Alaverdi, over a mountain dirt road, the peak of Mt. Lalvar, and hitting the Georgian border, this monastery is has a very cool cupola unique to Armenian architecture in a lush forest - nobody makes it this far!
Khuchapi Monastery. If you make it to Khorakert, you should be able to make it to this soaring, majestic and lost work of architecture, further along the border.
Hike, bike, climb, camp, 4x4, photography...
The biggest market (shuka) between Vanadzor and Georgia is here, but don't expect too much from the selection. Local produce and cheap imports dominate the market.
There are a couple of places to eat in Alaverdi, including an old Soviet restaurant which is reached by crossing the highway bridge towards Sanahin, but turning left after the bridge rather than right, and driving to the end of the short road. Other than that there is the Tufenkian Hotel restaurant with a full (and expensive) menu, and barbecue joints along the highway.
Anoush Hotel, Vanadzor-Alaverdi Highway, 21st km, Alaverdi, ☎ (+374 253) 68181; (093) 472281, (093) 504637. A beautiful little complex, originally started as a barbecue joint, it quickly became a dependable fixture of the area. Right by the highway and overlooking the Debed River and the forests beyond, the building is built in the traditional local style and is a fun place to watch life go by in this region.
Lori Rest House, (From Vanadzor town 16klm to Alaverdi turns right, Alaverdi), ☎ (374 10) 566014. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Amenities: cold water, toilet, bathroom and hot water in some rooms Satellite TV set, telephone in the lobby Rates: 6.000-10.000 AMD (per person) Catering: FB meal is included in the price Surroundings: Playground, parking lot, café, shop Entertainment: Café, tennis, billiard, football, volleyball Discounts: Special discounts for children are offered Payment: Cash
Tufenkian Dzoraget, Dzoraget Village, Vanadzor-Alaverdi Highway (Big new basalt hotel, across river from highway), . Luxury western hotel, with excellent comfortable rooms, design, views. Luxury prices as well.
Odzun Guesthouse, Odzun Village (Above the village, past the cemetery). A small Soviet rest house, that has been remodeled once or twice, but not terribly well. It's never really clear if the place is open for business, or what their price of the day is, until you drive up and negotiate. For some though it's proven to be a very cheap and convenient spot to rest, with breakfast included, with simple, clean rooms and hot water.
B&B Iris (Irena Israyelyan), Baghramyan 65, Alaverdi, ☎ +37425323839 or +37491088812, . Very friendly family run B&B. Comfortable, clean rooms. Great Meals. They are very helpful arranging transport and anything else you need for your travel. Very warm and hospitable people. It is possible to camp as well. email: email@example.com or firstname.lastname@example.org per person, breakfast 2000, dinner 3000.
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