From Wikitravel Shared

North Korea (officially Democratic People's Republic of Korea or DPRK) [1] is a country in Eastern Asia. It occupies the northern half of the Korean Peninsula that lies between Korea Bay and the Sea of Japan. It borders China and Russia to the north and South Korea to the south.

Travel to North Korea is only possible as part of a guided tour. Independent travel is not permitted. Only go if you are prepared to avoid causing any kind of trouble, bow to statues and only praise North Korea.

[edit] Regions

• Chagang Province
• North Hamgyŏng
• South Hamgyŏng
• North Hwanghae Province
• South Hwanghae Province
• Kaesŏng Industrial Region
• Kangwŏn Province
• Kŭmgang-san Tourist Region
• North P'yŏngan Province
• South P'yŏngan Province
• Rasŏn (Rajin-Sŏnbong)
• Shinŭiju Special Administrative Region
• Ryanggang Province

[edit] Cities

• P'yŏngyang - the capital city
• Kaesong - former capital during the Goryeo dynasty
• Wonsan - East coast port city rarely visited by tourists
• Nampo - industrial centre and port city on the western coast

[edit] Other destinations

• Kumgangsan — the scenic Diamond Mountains, accessible on tours from the South
• Myohyangsan — the Mysterious Fragrant Mountain is one of the North's best hiking spots
• Paekdusan — the tallest mountain in Korea and the Kim dynasty's mythical birthplace
• Panmunjom — the last outpost of the Cold War in the DMZ between South and North

[edit] Understand

[edit] History

In 1910, Korea was annexed by Japan. Japanese occupation lasted until 1945 when Japan was defeated by the Allied Forces at the end of World War II. The Soviet Union and the United States occupied the northern half and southern half respectively. The Soviet Union refused to allow elections for a unified Korea, and before long both sides created their own governments. The Soviet Union fostered a communist northern half under Kim Il Sung and the United States fostered a western-leaning southern half. In 1950, a civil war erupted on the Korean peninsula when the North invaded the South and a United Nations force led by the United States fought to stop the whole peninsula being overrun by a Communist army. After nearly being driven out of Korea, Douglas MacArthur's daring amphibious landing at Inchon turned the tables and the North was on the verge of defeat, when China stepped in on their side and pushed the UN forces back towards Seoul. In the end, nothing was accomplished except the death of over three million people — an armistice was finally agreed to in 1953 and Korea remained divided with the Democratic People's Republic of Korea in the north, and the Republic of Korea in the south. Kim Il-Sung ruled as dictator until his death in 1994, and his son Kim Jong-Il has ruled North Korea ever since.

After decades of government mismanagement, the North relies heavily on international food aid to feed its population, while continuing to expend resources to maintain an army of about 1 million. North Korea's long-range missile development and research into nuclear, chemical, and biological weapons and massive conventional armed forces are of major concern to the international community. In December 2002, North Korea repudiated a 1994 agreement that shut down its nuclear reactors and expelled UN monitors, further raising fears it would produce nuclear weapons. Missile testing, last conducted in 1998, continued in July 2006, and in October 2006 North Korea announced that it had conducted its first ever nuclear test. These actions will most likely lead to the possibility of UN and international economic sanctions in the near term.

[edit] People

In North Korea, the vast majority of people are Korean. There are also a few hundred foreigners to be found, however, most of them are fellow tourists.

[edit] Climate

The climate is temperate with rainfall concentrated in summer. Late spring droughts are often followed by severe flooding. There are occasional typhoons during the early fall.

[edit] Terrain

Mostly hills and mountains separated by deep, narrow valleys; coastal plains wide in west, discontinuous in east. Mountainous interior is isolated and sparsely populated.

[edit] Holidays

[edit] Get in

Visiting North Korea is a bureaucratic nightmare, and your every move will be monitored by your guides. There are those who have called for a boycott on tourism to North Korea, due to human rights abuses in the country or how tourism may help finance the government. There is no official free enterprise activity in North Korea, and all tourist facilities are state-owned so the money goes directly to the government of North Korea. Others cite the possible benefits of Westerners engaging with North Korean citizens, particularly in a positive, friendly manner (i.e. contrary to the stereotypes of Westerners presented by internal propaganda) — although your guides will generally do their best to stop you from actually meeting any ordinary citizens. Ordinary North Koreans are forbidden to interact with you without authorization from the government. Regardless of political beliefs, North Korea is generally acknowledged to be a unique place to visit. The traveller must make his or her own mind up about the rights and wrongs of visiting the country.

Citizens of the United States of America, South Korea and people of South Korean origin are normally not permitted to visit North Korea, although exceptions are occasionally made for special events such as the Arirang Mass Games. In addition, there have been reports of difficulties regarding Israeli and Japanese nationals. Citizens of all other countries will need a visa, which will only be issued after your tour has been booked, approved by the North Korean authorities and paid for. Journalists (or those suspected of being journalists) require special permission, which is quite difficult to obtain. A specialist North Korean travel agency can help you sort out the complex and ever-changing regulations. It should be noted that North Korea will rarely in practice refuse a visa to a tourist who meets the various requirements.

In 2007, North Korean authorities have announced that U.S. citizens will be allowed to visit in the periods April 15 to May 15 and August 15 to October 15, 2007, but then only on tours restricted to 3 days. [2]

Most people travelling to North Korea will travel through Beijing. It is most likely you will pick up your visa from there. The North Korean consulate building is separate from the main embassy building at Ritan Lu, and can be found round the corner at Fangcaodi Xijie. It is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 0930-1130 and 1400-1730, and on all other days except Sundays from 0930-1130. Bring your travel permission, US$30 and two passport photos. However, most tour companies (such as Koryo Tours) will perform this service on your arrival in Beijing on your behalf.

Residents of Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland or Baltic countries (Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia) and who travel with the Swedish company Korea Konsult can have their visas issued by the North Korean embassy in Sweden. This will be taken care of by Korea Konsult, and you will have your visa sent to you by mail before you leave.[3]

Your guide will take your passport and keep it during your stay in North Korea. Make sure your passport looks decent and doesn't differ from the most common passports from your country. North Korean immigration may get suspicious and demand a "fine" or keep your passport when you leave if they don't like what they see.

[edit] Visa-free entry

There are two places in North Korea that can be visited without actually needing a North Korean visa:

• Kumgangsan (Geumgangsan), accessible on cruises and group tours from South Korea organized by Hyundai Asan.
• Panmunjom (Panmunjeom), the jointly controlled truce village in the Demilitarized Zone dividing the Koreas in two

Both are also accessible to Americans and South Koreans, although a different list of restricted nationalities applies for Panmunjom (see article).

[edit] By plane

North Korea's sole airline, Air Koryo[4], currently has scheduled flights from Beijing, which depart at 1130 every Tuesday and Saturday, and return from P'yŏngyang at 0900 on the same days. Air Koryo also flies to and from Shenyang in North East China every Wednesday and Saturday, and to Vladivostok every Tuesday morning. In the Summer there are also flights (usually twice weekly) to Khabarovsk, also in Russia.

Air Koryo is one of three 1-star airlines on Skytrax's list, the other two being Afriqiyah Airways and Iran Air. The fleet of Air Koryo consists largely of Soviet-made aircrafts built between 1965 and 1990. It is difficult to say what aircrafts are usually put on the Beijing–P'yŏngyang route, but on the Skytrax forum, forum users have reported that the aircrafts mainly consist of Ilyushin IL-62-Ms, which Air Koryo has four of, built in 1979, 1985, 1986 and 1988. Sometimes the airline has also used Tupolev TU-154-Bs (three aircrafts, built in 1975, 1976 and 1977) and Tupolev TU-134s (three aircrafts, all built in 1983).

A shady reputation has resulted in Air Koryo being on the list of carriers banned in the EU (July 2006).

China Southern have recently begun scheduled charter flights from Shenyang.

[edit] By train

Train services connect to Beijing in China via Tianjin, Jinxi, Dandong and Shinuiju approximately four times a week. There is only one class on the international train between Beijing and Pyongyang: soft sleeper. It can be booked at the station in Beijing, but must be several days in advance, your tour agency will usually do this for you, unless you are travelling on work purposes. There is also a rail link into Russia, but it is currently not used.

[edit] By boat

There is an unscheduled cargo-passenger ship between Wonsan and Niigata, Japan. Only available for use by some Japanese and North Korean nationals, the boat service has been suspended indefinitely due to North Korea's reported nuclear testing; Japan has banned all North Korean ships from entering Japanese ports, and have banned North Koreans from entering the country.

[edit] By bus

A bus is theoretically available from Dandong (China) across the Yalu River to Sinuiju, but it's not easy to find, has no schedule and it's doubtful if non-Chinese/Koreans are allowed to board.

[edit] Get around

All your transport needs will be dealt with by your tour company. There may be some opportunities to see local public transport, especially the P'yŏngyang metro. Enquire with your guide to see if this is possible.

[edit] Talk

The official language is Korean. Note that North Koreans are quite picky about referring to Korean as Chosŏnmal, not hangungmal. Unlike South Korea, North Korea has abolished Chinese hanja characters and uses hangul characters, known as Chosŏn'gŭl, exclusively.

Your guides will speak perfect English and will do all the translating for you.

[edit] Buy

In 2002 Foreign Exchange Certificates (FEC) were abolished and along with them went all the different colored currencies. Now there is just the standard North Korean won, which officially trades at 165 or so to the Euro. Black market rates (especially in northern China near the border) are more favorable, but importing or exporting Korean won is strictly forbidden. Conversely, were you to sneak out some won, they are practically worthless outside the country, but make unique souvenirs.

In reality, foreigners are expected to use Euros or as an alternative Chinese RMB, US Dollars or Japanese Yen. Getting the local money is possible, but it is difficult to use as the shops all want foreign currency. Currency handling is often bizarre, with a frequent lack of change and a number of rule-of-thumb conversions leading to highly unorthodox transactions.

[edit] Souvenirs

There are numerous hard-currency only souvenir shops at tourist sites. Interesting souvenirs include propaganda books and videos, postcards and postage stamps. At some tourist sites (such as King Kongmin's tomb), you can purchase freshly finished paintings with your name and the artist's name at the bottom. And if you are very lucky you might be able to get hold of some socialist realism paintings, although customs officials are not keen on these things going out of the country, so do beware.

[edit] Costs

You will pay for most things up-front as part of your tour. Most sights have a shop associated with them where you can buy bottled water, souvenirs and snacks. These are reasonably priced. In May 2002 large bottles of local beer cost US$1 at the hotel bars.

[edit] Eat

Despite severe food shortages in North Korea, you are unlikely to have any problems getting food. Your guide will order all your food for you, and you will eat in hard-currency only restaurants. Vegetarians, and people with food allergies/dislikes of common foods such as seafood or eggs will need to make arrangements in advance. A visit to a "real" local restaurant may be possible; enquire with your guide. Note that although your food is better than what 95%+ of the population eats, it's still not necessarily great. Shortages combined with the typical use of Korean cooking styles mean that there is a relatively limited variety of food, which can get wearying on tours of more than a few days.

[edit] Drink

The local speciality is insam-ju, Korean vodka infused with ginseng roots. Locally made Taedonggang beer is very good (brewery imported from Ushers in the UK) and some of the Sojus are not bad either. Local alcohol is inexpensive; a 650mL bottle of beer is 0.5 euro. However do not get drunk and cause trouble. Toe the line and show respect, or you and your guide will face serious penalties.

[edit] Sleep

This is likely to be your principal expense while in North Korea. You may only stay at "designated tourist hotels", for which you will need to pay in hard currency. There may be discounts if you ask for lower class accommodation, if you are travelling as part of a group, or if it is low season (November – March). Costs for your tour, which will include accommodation, all sightseeing activities and meals, will range from US$70 – US$200 a day, depending on these factors.

Usually, you pay for all your meals, hotel and Beijing–P'yŏngyang journey to your tour operator before you leave. One week in high season at a four-star hotel will then cost something between 1300 and 1600 euros, depending on your tour operator. See e.g. Koryo Tours and Korea Konsult. Depending on the rate of the U.S. dollar, it might also be worth checking out the American tour operator North Korea 1 on 1, where you might get as low as 900 euros for one week.

[edit] Learn

[edit] Work

If you are interested in teaching in North Korea, you may find success by contacting the North Korean UN Mission in New York, or contacting a North Korean university directly. Your odds of success are, however, quite low: there are only 3 foreign English teachers in DPRK, all provided by the British Council and all work at Kim Il Sung University.

[edit] Stay safe

Crime levels are practically zero, at least to tourists on a strictly controlled tour. However, pickpockets are the least of your worries. The secret police are very touchy, and you need to watch what you say. Just do what the guides do, praise every stop on your tour, and remember the "if you can't say anything good, say nothing at all" rule.

Also, unless you have the explicit authorization of your guides, you are not to wander anywhere on your own, not even outside of the hotel. If you are courteous to your guide and toe the line, a brief walk around the hotel grounds alone may be possible, but always ask first. Do not take pictures of anything without explicit approval of your guides. The best rule of thumb in North Korea is to always ask for permission from your guides before doing anything at all.

[edit] Stay healthy

Drinking water might be safe, although sticking to bottled water is recommended. Medical facilities are basic, and if you fall ill you might be better off returning to China for treatment. Contact your embassy or consulate in North Korea (if your country has one) for assistance. US citizens may contact the Swedish Embassy in Pyongyang for advice if needed.

[edit] Respect

It is important to emphasize that the government of the DPRK -- in particular the leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il -- are very highly revered in North Korean culture. While slavish devotion is not necessary (at least for tourists, although the more praise you shower on them the better), insulting them in any way is illegal and will get you and (much more so) your guides into trouble. In North Korea 'in trouble' does not mean a slap on the wrist - North Korea is renowned for very harsh punishments.

Bringing gifts like cigarettes for the men, and doughnuts or skin cream for female guides, etc. is a nice gesture. Do not give anything to the local North Koreans or even try to speak to them without permission from your guides. Please be respectful toward your guides, especially since North Korean guides are known to occasionally take tourists whom they trust well enough to see other places and events in North Korea that they wouldn't ordinarily go to.

Most, if not all, tour groups to the DPRK are asked to solemnly bow on one or two occasions in front of statues of Kim Il Sung when visiting monuments of national importance. If you are not prepared to do this, don't even try to enter North Korea.

Any trouble you cause as a tourist will likely be blamed on your tour guide's inability to control you, and he or she will bear the brunt of the penalties.

Other than your tour guide, you will likely not meet anyone else in your trip who speaks English; a few Korean words and phrases are a nice internationalist gesture.

Despite the sharp political difference, North and South Koreans generally share a common culture; the various tips in the South Korea article under respect (such as using two hands to pour drinks) will also help here.

[edit] Contact

All those contemplating travel to North Korea should call the nearest North Korean Embassy or Consulate for specific entry requirements.

[edit] Foreign Embassies/Missions in Pyongyang

Practically all foreign embassies in Pyongyang are inside the Munsu-dong diplomatic compound.

• H.M British Embassy to DPR Korea[5], Munsu-dong Diplomatic Compound, Pyongyang, +850 2 381 7980 (International dialling) (0) 2 382 7980 (Local dialling) There is a Duty Officer rota for out of hours emergencies - to contact use international dialling (+850 2 381 7985 Fax International dialling) email:postmaster.pyonx@fco.gov.uk. GMT:Mon-Fri: 0000-0830 Local Time: Mon-Fri: 0900-1730.*

• German Embassy[6], Munsu-dong Diplomatic Compound, Pyongyang, +850 2 381 7385.

• Polish Embassy[7],Tedonggang - Munsu-Dong, Pyongyang, D.P.R.K. phone: +850 2 381 7325, +850 2 381 7328, +850 2 381 7331 fax: +850 2 381 7634 fax/phone: +850 2 381 7637

• Swedish Embassy[8], Munsu-dong, Daehak Street, Taedonggang District, Pyongyang. +850 2 381 74 85, email: ambassaden.pyongyang@foreign.ministry.se.**

• Swiss Embassy [9], Daedonggang District Munhundong, Yubo Street No. 3, Pyongyang. +850 2 381 76 45, email: pyongyang@sdc.net

* The British Embassy incorporates a minor Canadian diplomatic presence, this offers reasonable consular services to Canadian citizens

** The United States does not currently maintain diplomatic relations with The D.P.R.K, America citizens can recieve limited consular help from the Swedish Embassy (usually emergencies only)

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