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Yangshuo (阳朔; Yáng shuò) is a very scenic, small tourist town surrounded by mountains and beautiful scenery.

[edit] Understand

Yangshuo is near Guilin and like Guilin, it has incredible karst scenery and a parade of Chinese package tourists who can be spotted wearing baseball caps and following a tour leader who carries a flag.

However, it isn't your typical Chinese town. Yangshuo has a reputation as a foreigners' village in Southern China. This town feels like one of the stops on the travelers' trail, with lots of the same people you'd expect in Katmandu, Sihanoukville, or Dali. It does not have a big China-city feel to it. It is more like a vacation town, with restaurants and shops.

Many travellers use Yangshuo as a base and spend their time exploring the karst scenery and rivers, or checking out caves and local temples. Renting a bike and taking off into the countryside, with or without a guide, is one popular strategy. There is also a whole community of rock climbers enjoying hills and caves.

Others just take it easy in the many cafes and bars. While this certainly isn't the whole story, the town is in some ways a break from the rest of China. For this reason, it is very popular with foreigners who work in China.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Yangshuo has no airport. The nearest airport is in Guilin (airport code KWL) serviced by a number of domestic and international carriers, with several daily flights from Beijing and Shanghai. As yet, there are no direct buses from the airport to Yangshuo. There is an airport bus you can take (¥20, makes 3 stops - get off at the second stop near the train station for buses to Yangshou but beware of touts who will meet you and charge greatly inflated ticket prices, upwards of ¥30). You can also get off at the last stop in Guilin and then take a bus or boat to Yangshuo. Be aware that like most bus services in China, the bus won't leave the airport until full so you may be faced with a wait.

If you book your accommodation ahead of time, most hotels in Yangshuo can arrange for a car you pick you up from Guilin Airport and take you to Yangshuo for around ¥200-250.

If you take a taxi from Guilin Airport to Yangshou, you can take the expressway. This will cost you ¥30 extra for the tolls but reduces the ride from 2 to 1 hour.

One of the best routes to take to Yangshuo if you wish to head there directly is to fly to Hong Kong, cross the border to Shenzhen, then take a flight from there to Guilin. Both China Southern Airlines and Shenzhen Airways serve this route. Flying directly from Hong Kong to Guilin can be quite a bit more expensive as the route is considered an international sector and international taxes apply. Either way, the flight takes about 50 minutes.

[edit] By train

Yangshuo is not served by train and the nearest railway station is Guilin. An overnight train from Shenzhen (on the Hong Kong border) goes direct to Guilin. Some hotels will arrange pick up from the train station. Minibuses to Yangshuo conveniently depart from the square in front of Guilin railway station. For bus connections, see below.

[edit] By bus

From Guilin — There are frequent minibuses and express buses to Yangshuo from Guilin. All buses terminate at the bus terminal in Yangshuo. Minibuses depart from the square in front of the Guilin railway station (¥14, buy tickets on the bus once it is underway. Invariably touts will try to sell you a more expensive ticket before the bus departs, even coming onto the bus. The best approach is simply to ignore them). The journey takes between one and one-and-a-half hours as buses stop along the way. Express buses (¥15, buy tickets from counter inside terminal) depart every half hour from the Guilin bus terminal off Zhongshan Zhong Lu and take just an hour.

In Yangshuo, wait for minibuses at the exit of the bus terminal at Die Cui Lu. The first bus to depart will be at the head of the queue. Express buses depart half hourly starting at 7AM from their allotted bay inside the terminal. Buy tickets from the glass counter.

Scam Alert - On the bus from Guilin, unscrupulous hawkers frequently stop the bus before the center of town (near the service station) urging you to get off while claiming this is Yangshuo and the bus will continue to another place. The bus conductor will often be complicit in the scam and even tell you that you've arrived at the bus station. The tout's goal is to get you to pay them to take you to the centre of town and to their hotel. Note: Buses from Guangdong really don't go to the bus station; they just let you off in town, a ten-minute walk from the main tourist area.

From Guangdong — Overnight sleeper buses run direct to Yangshuo from Shenzhen on the Hong Kong border, from Zhuhai on the Macau border, and from Guangzhou. These cost around ¥100-250 depending on which station in Shenzhen you want to depart from and how new of a bus you want to travel on. The buses from the border in Shenzhen are the most expensive.

[edit] By boat

There are also boats that travel down the Li River from Guilin, slower and more expensive (¥400+) than buses, but a very scenic journey. You may be able to travel for about ¥100 by joining a tour group. You will pass by what is considered some of China's most famous scenic views, including a mountain view that can be seen on all ¥20 bills.

In the winter time, which is the dry season, the boats often only travel starting halfway down the Li River from Guilin. A tour company will inform you of this. It is still worth taking the journey. You will then travel part of the way by bus or private taxi, then join the boat where the water is deep enough (this may vary).

[edit] Get around

[edit] Around town

Yangshuo is a small place; the town can easily be covered on foot. There is an electric minibus network consisting five routes covering most parts of town. ¥1 per ride.

The main tourist area is laid out roughly like a ladder. The two main tourist streets run more-or-less parallel up from the river and end at one of the town's larger streets. There are assorted smaller streets (rungs) crossing between the two larger streets. The street (ladder vertical) on the left seen from the River is West Street (西街 Xijie) and is the older more established tourist street, the real center of things. The other long tourist street is Diecuilu (畳翠路).

There's a small creek that runs down the center of the "ladder", some of the prettiest bars and restaurants in town are on balconies near it. The street there is called Guiha Lu. It has recently undergone heavy rebuilding and now has many new shops, bars and restaurants. Toward the river end, it curves to intersect Diecielu.

At the "foot of the ladder" by the river is an open area with a large number of vendors hawking all sorts of tourist stuff, both from shops and from handcarts. There are also a number of rather nice riverside hotels.

Across the "top of the ladder" is a major street (Pantao Lu) with many hotels. The town's main bus station is at the corner where that main street meets Die Cui Lu. The intersection has a large open area that becomes very busy at night, with dozens of restaurants and hundreds of diners. Do not expect English menus or non-Chinese dishes.

There are a number of banks located in town. On West Street there is the Bank of China, Agricultural Bank and ICBC. On Pantao Lu there are a few others, including the China Postal Bank and another near the fresh food markets. Be aware that not all banks have ATMs, and not all ATMs will handle foreign card transactions.

The post office is on Pantao Lu, opposite the top end of West Street. It's open from 8AM until 9PM.

[edit] Into the countryside

If you're planning on walking around the many streets and caves around Yangshuo, a map is recommended. Artistic tourist maps are available for sale for around ¥5-10 at tourist shops all over town, but the free maps are better for finding your way.

For those who want to wander a little further afield, or to check the attractions in the area, there are several options.

• The most popular is bike rental, there are several places around the main street catering for short-term rentals charging from ¥5 upwards.
• There are boat tours up or down the river.
• Local buses serve some locations. From Yangshuo's bus terminal, minibuses (xiao mian bao or "little bread loaves") go to Gaotian (for Yueliang Shan/Moon Hill), Jinbao via Baisha (for Yulong Qiao/Dragon Bridge), Shazhi (for Fuli village), Xingping (for the Xingping-Yangdi scenic area) and further afield.
• It is possible to hire private cars for others.

You can mix these modes of travel, for example taking a boat out of town and biking back or taking a bus upriver a ways to catch a boat tour.

[edit] Tour Guides

Most hostels or hotels can arrange transport and a guide if you want one. A guide may be very helpful for things like cycling tours. Guides can also be found at 'Expat Services' on Chenzhong Rd, next to 7th Heaven. Alternately, you can choose your own tourist guide by working out a deal with one of the many who will accost you on the street. Some local guides are simply savvy street wise individuals trying to make some money, whilst others are registered and take government examinations. Whilst some of the unlicensed guides can be very good at what they do, be careful that you are not simply being taken on a 'shopping' tour where you feel pressured into spending money you do not wish to.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Karst landscape

The area around Yangshuo is renowned throughout China, and probably the world, for its Karst landscape where there are hundreds of limestone hills dotting the countryside. The beautiful scenery here is a common subject of Chinese paintings as well as the inspiration for poetry. There are several popular areas for Karst landscape sight-seeing which can be covered by river cruises, bamboo-raft cruises, cycling, trekking and combinations of the various modes.

• Yangdi-Xingping scenic area. This stretch along the Li River is probably the most renowned and popular. There are river cruises available and in fact, the Guilin-Yangshuo boat ride passes through this area. There is also a 24km (5 to 6 hours) track for easy hiking along the Li river.
  Getting there: There are various ways of reaching this stretch of the Li River. You can of course catch a direct river cruise from Yangshuo town. You can also get to both Yangdi (90mins, Y8) and Xingping (45 mins, Y5.5) by minibus (called xiao mian bao or "little bread loaves") from Yangshuo bus terminal, or cycle out there and then take boats or bamboo rafts to reach the scenic area. Again, combinations of the various modes are possible.  edit

• Yulong River valley. The pretty Yulong River valley is said to rival the Yangdi-Xingping stretch in terms of beauty. Besides rafting down the river on bamboo rafts, another popular way of seeing the valley is by cycling along riverside tracks. The journey will bring you through many farming villages and past several stone bridges across the river such as the Yulong Qiao and Fuli Qiao. Be warned though that the track is complicated and it is easy to get lost; using a local guide will ensure you stay on track.
  Getting there: From Yangshuo town, you can access the Yulong River valley by turning west into a small road from the main Yangshuo bypass road just south of the Sinopec petrol station at the junction of Pantao Lu (there are road signs in Chinese). You can also access it by using the road to Jinbao from Baisha town 9km north of Yangshuo on the main road to Guilin. Minibuses from Yangshuo bus terminal to Jinbao go near Yulong village.  edit

• Moon Hill. Another popular scenic spot south of town. The main attraction is a hill with a huge hole in the shape of a moon. The hills here can be climbed for spectacular vistas from the top.
  Getting there: Take a Gaotian minibus Yangshuo bus terminal. If you plan to cycle, Moon Hill is located about 8km south of Yangshuo on the road to Wuzhou. There is a Y15 entry fee. It's not an incredibly long trek to the top but the gradient and strange angle of the steps can do something strange to your legs on the way down. The Moon Hill Cafe at the base of the hill sells fairly mediocre food at ridiculously high prices, and you may need something after the trek up and down. Alternatively there are a few other places to choose from in nearby Moon Hill Village, and plenty of hawkers selling cool drinks. On the road back to Yangshuo, not far from Moon Hill, is the 'Big Banyan Tree' scenic area. A Y18 entry fee gets you into this popular park by the Yulong river, featuring a 1400 year old banyan tree. Be sure to use the official entrance (ticket offices at the front), as hawkers will attempt to lure you into an alternative entrance that is lined with dozens of souveneir stalls.  edit
• Watch Cormorant Fishing. Local tourism companies offer evening boat trips to watch fisherman using a traditional night fishing technique that employs cormorants.  edit

[edit] Yangshuo town

Many people come to Yangshuo are so preoccupied with the surrounding karst landscape that they do not spend much time in Yangshuo town itself.

There is quite a bit to do in the town itself. Apart from shopping and haggling prices on the main tourist streets, there are a plethora of backstreets with all sorts of interesting eateries and little shops. Explore and be daring. There are Chinese tea shops where you can sample ‘ten year’ old tea, or even ’fifteen year’ old tea. It looks very black, but produces a very mild light looking and tasting tea, all served from miniature teapots into miniature teacups. But beware many tea houses are ridiculously over priced. One of the most popular scams in China is the standard, "Do you speak English?, Do you have time? I was about to go get some tea, want to come with me?" and out goes hundreds of kuai. It is a scam; do not fall for it. They are not your friends. Additionally, you can also sign up for Chinese cooking classes, experience foot reflexology or attend a Tai Chi class.

Tai Chi classes are given in The People's Park each morning at 8AM. Otherwise there are also formal schools providing 'drop in' classes.

The People’s Park just opposite the bus station is a great place to observe the locals playing cards, a national pastime so it would seem. You’ll also see groups of women sitting around talking whilst doing their knitting, some even walk along the street whilst knitting and chatting.

Beware of the fresh market. If you are sensitive, then cages full of dogs waiting for the slaughter may just upset you enough to put you off your food. There are plenty of stalls out on the streets where you can buy lots of fruits, no need to face the grim meat market.

[edit] Shows

Impression Liu Sanjie runs nightly during the high season. Liu Sanjie translates as Third sister Liu, the heroine of an old Chinese story. The show, set to the music from the movie of the same name and produced by the same person that did the Beijing Olympic games opening ceremony, is grand and impressive, but not particularly entertaining. It features a cast of several hundred wearing traditional Zhuang, Miao and Yao dress, and a highly impressive light show.

You can see the show cheaply from a boat on the river, or even from across the river, but far the best view is from the official seating area. The printed entrance price for a plastic seat at the front is ¥188, affording an excellent view. Most travel agents or hotels in town sell tickets for ¥130 to 150 (so don't be fooled into paying the ful amount). The are two other ticket types: bamboo seat and private room, both of which cost considerably more. Tickets only sell out in the very height of the summer tourist season.

Getting in and out of the show area is a fairly haphazard process. A disorganized collection of buses, mini-buses, cars, pedi-cabs, bicyles, motorcycles, and pedestrians are all streaming towards a small courtyard entrance gate. Some buses go through the gate to park on the grounds, other buses and all other vehicles are parked in semi-organized fashion in nearby lots. Once dropped off, the sea of pedestrian traffic flows to the seating areas (fortunately, the tickets are for assigned seats). Also, since there are two shows on most evenings, there is foot and motor traffic going both in and out between the shows. Just think of it as part of the show and minimize your expectations about getting there and back.

[edit][add listing] Do

• Bike riding. Wandering through the countryside on a bike and getting lost is one of the best things about Yangshuo. The villages often have dramatic mountain backdrops, and the people are generally friendly. Another popular trip is to take a boat ride with a bike, then bicycle back to town. Bike hire starts at ¥5 per day, and tandems are a bit more. The bikes tend to be poorly maintained, so be sure to check brakes and gears before you set out. For travelers craving reliability, Bike Asia [1] (on Guihua Rd, above Bar 98) has well-maintained specialized mountain bikes for ¥50. Bike Asia also has free bike maps of the area, and can advise on where to cycle. Find an farmer woman for ¥100 per day to give you a guided tour of the local paths. This may include lunch at her place if you're lucky. From ¥5 per day.  edit

• Rock climbing. Yangshuo has over 300 climbing routes ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13. There is a lively climbing scene in town, so experienced climbers will have no problem finding a partner, just ask in the climbing places and they should know other climbing travelers you can hook up with. For beginners and climbers traveling without their own equipment several climbing companies offer equipment rental, one/multi-day trips and places to hang out chatting about potential routes or to find a partner. The "Yangshuo Climbing Guide", a guidebook showing route topos, grades, etc. can be purchased from any of the climbing companies. Climbing shops in Yangshuo:  edit
  • Spiderman, (marked with a conspicuous sign), on Xianqian Road (the first cross street off West Street as you come up from the river).  edit
  • Karst Cafe, on Xianqian Road, [2].  edit
  • Chinaclimb, on Xianqian Road, [3].  edit
  • Terratribes, on Fu Qian Road, [4].  edit
  • Xclimber, on Guihua Road (a right turn then a left turn before the start of West Street), [5].  edit
  • Blackrock, on Guihua Road.  edit

• Hiking.  edit
  • Yangdi - Xingping.
    This walk is a far more peaceful way to enjoy the Li river and mountain scenery than a loud noisy boat down the river. It takes you along the pebbly shores of the river, through many small villages, fields and bamboo forests. To do the walk, you must purchase a ticket (¥16) from the ticket office (look for the sign in English) right near the wharf in Yangdi; this covers the first two (of three) river crossings, and access beyond a checkpoint about halfway along the walk. The first ferry crossing departs near the end of the wharf (i.e. downstream), and is a blue boat with a yellow "<--->" sign on the roof. If you get tired during the walk, you can always rent a bamboo raft to float down the river; don't worry about availability - you will be turning down offers of 'Bamboo? Bamboo?' the whole way. Typically this walk is done Yangdi -> Xingping, however vice-versa is possible. There are plenty of people selling food and drinks along the way, ranging from single sellers to sit-down cafes.  edit

• Exploring caves. There are an abundance of caves riddling the limestone hills. Guided tours are available. More serious cavers should talk to the staff at the various climbing shops (listed above) for information about possible cave climbs.  edit

• Swimming in the Li Jiang River. During the summer the water and air temperature is good for swimming. Locals swim from the docks on the Li Jiang (Li River) a short way upstream of the town centre. The Lijiang water quality is average, and it is possible to swim as long as you comfortable with some undesirables in the water. Also tour boats that travel the Li Jiang coming from Guilin are a hazard. The Yulong River is also good for swimming, offering some quality swimming spots, although some parts of the river are crowded with bamboo rafts.  edit

• Bamboo rafting. Rafting along the Yulong river is particularly popular in summer, but travelers should take care not to go rafting if the water is brown and turbulent. In 2005 there was a fatality during high floods.  edit

• Hot air ballooning, ☎ +86 773 8814919. Expensive by Chinese standards, hot air ballooning in Yangshuo is still a bargain compared to the West. Safety is a concern; four Dutch tourists were killed in a 2009 accident. A new hot air ballooning company, China Hot Air Ballooning [6], has recently been established by the Australian company, Outback Ballooning. Flights are run to the highest balloon safety standards and are for 1 hour. Transfers leave daily from Guilin. US$290 for a one hour flight.  edit

• Volunteer Teaching English, [7]. The Volunteer English Teachers program visits local schools to teach poor children English. Alternatively, the Zhuoyue English College [8] in central Yangshuo runs the 'English Corner' from 6.30PM - 8.30PM, Mon - Thu, where native English speaking volunteers can provide the students with an opportunity to practice their conversational English. In return, volunteers get dinner (at 5.30PM) and free drinks (beer, coke etc). In terms of the Chinese market for English teachers, this is robbery; the school makes money off your generosity.  edit

• Learn Martial Arts. Classes in Taichi, Qigong, Kungfu, Taekwondo, and other martial arts are available at the Budizhen school at the top of West Street for ¥80 a day. LongTouShan Taichi school [9] offers also Taichi, Qigong and Yoga classes in a beautiful spot located in the country side, half an hour walk from West street. There is also the Wang Zhi Ping Tai Chi Training Centre [10] located behind the park on Baoquan Road. This school offers once off lessons, weekly and monthly rates, plus professional training in various forms of Tai Chi. These prices are high compared to the rest of China. In Fuzhou, daily Tai Chi classes cost ¥100 a month. ¥80 a day.  edit

• Learn Chinese Cooking, [11]. Single and multi-day classes in traditional Chinese cooking are offered by the Yanghsuo Cooking School in the beautiful traditional farmhouse or at their new school alongside the Li River at Yangshuo Cooking School. Yangshuo Cooking School has 2 different menus depending on which day you go (morning/lunch or afternoon/dinner classes), and typical dishes include beer fish, stuffed pumpkin flowers, egg-wrapped dumplings and stir fried pork with vegetables and oyster sauce. A tour of the local market and hotel pick up is included. Phone 13788437286 to book (English). Cloud 9 also offer cooking classes.  edit

• Learn Chinese Language, [12]. At Yangshuo's number 1 cultural centre, where you can study Mandarin, Tai-ji, Kung Fu, Calligraphy and even join a two-week Chinese Painting Holiday.  edit

• Learn Fan Painting, Fuli. Fuli is well known for fan painting, and one workshop in particular runs classes where you will be shown and helped to make your own fan. A local expert will show you Chinese brush painting techniques, as well as showing you how to fold and bind the fan. Afterwards there is an opportunity to explore the beautiful town of Fuli. ¥220.  edit

[edit] Learn

• Cooking school — Learn to make several typical local dishes at the Yangshuo Cooking School. Classes involve a trip to a local market to buy ingredients, individual woks as you go step-by-step through preparation of the various dishes, and a meal at the end, all in a rustic setting at the Outside Inn or the new classroom next the the Li River. Classes must be booked a day in advance. Phone 13788437286.
• Kung Fu offered at the Green Lotus on West Street.
• Tai Chi Chen and Yang at master Mei's School [13]
• Tai Chi Chuan & Kung Fu at Master Fu Nengbin's School [14] in Shi Ban Qiao, within lovely walking distance from Yangshuo.
• Tai Chi/Qi Gung at Wang Zhi Ping's school [15]. Walking distance from centre of town.
• Chinese Painting & Calligraphy Holiday[16] - The only one in China. Learn how to paint in tradititional Chinese way. Next starting date: April 27th 2009.
• Chinese Mandarin at Mandacentre [17] - Study at Yangshuo's number 1 Chinese Language Centre. Learn from Professional teachers and friendly staff.
• Chinese Mandarin at Omeida Chinese Academy - It has Chinese language programs that meet the needs and goals of students at all levels. “Survival Chinese” course is specially designed for those backpacking around China. Travelers may take the course and be equipped with essential Chinese phrases.

[edit][add listing] Buy

There is a huge amount of touristy stuff available:

• Pashmina scarves (Cashmere by a different name).
• Silk products: ties, kimonos, scarves, dresses.
• Pottery, bronze, stone carvings, bracelets, and knickknacks of all sorts.
• Scroll paintings, fans and embroidered cloths.

Much of this stuff is lovely, really very tempting. However, quite a bit of it is fake and nearly all of it is available all over China and cheaper outside of Yangshuo.

Asking prices for such stuff in Yangshuo are horribly inflated. Here is a table based on some travellers' experience:

Item	Asking price, in yuan		Price paid	A local says it is worth
	elsewhere	Yangshuo	Yangshuo
silk ties	18-30	75-120	50 for 3
small silk scarves		80-100	20
large scarf/wrap	60-80	120-200	50
old silver dollars, nearly all counterfeit	20	80-150	6-10
large tapestry		150	55	30-40
Wooden dolls with minority style clothes		up to 50	6
Half-meter (18") wooden Buddha		400	100	less

Getting the prices shown took hard bargaining, often based on knowledge of prices elsewhere. Of course, even those may not be the best possible prices.

Many tourists, having no idea of the real Chinese price, are grossly overcharged. After all, even ¥120 (about $17 US) would be a great price for a nice pure silk tie back home, and even without haggling skill you can no doubt beat him down to 60 or 80. However, when they may not be real silk and routinely sell for far less in China, even 60 is excessive. On the other hand, there is no need to be rude while haggling. The guy who asks ¥120 for a tie that is worth maybe ¥20 is not a thief; he's just trying to make a living, charging what the market will bear.

Advice for tourists who have no idea what the Chinese price should be:

• Assume nothing on offer here is worth more than a fourth of the asking price, and most things quite a bit less.
• If you are prepared to haggle, offer about 10% of the asking price and go from there.
• If not, offer 20% to 30% and stick to it. Walk away if the vendor will not meet your price. They often follow after you with better prices.

Consider the classic mother-to-daughter advice "Men are like buses. You don't worry if you miss one and you never chase them, because you know there will always be another one along." This applies very much to vendors of tourist goods in Yangshuo. If one is too expensive, or even if you are not sure the price is fair, you can always try another.

The main drag of West Street and the street along the river are more expensive. You can find the same stuff cheaper at Xingping, the small town North of Yangshuo, or in the back streets.

See also How to haggle.

[edit] Local goods

There are also a few things not usually available elsewhere:

• Postcards and picture books of the area, in stores or hawked by older women on the street.
• Chinese paintings of the local Karst scenery.
• T-shirts
  • Chinese characters with different slogans, such as "I have no money", or "Foreigner coming" on the front and "Foreigner going" on the back.
  • Hard Rock Cafe T-shirts are common. There has never been a real Hard Rock Cafe (part of the chain) in Yangshuo, though at least two now defunct places used the name.
  • Some places with great names (Red Capitalism Cafe, Outside Inn, Fawlty Towers) do not have T-shirts, unfortunately.
• Silver and embroidery pieces by local minorities.
  • Prices for large pieces are high, but some pieces may be worth them.
  • Small pieces, such as embroidered Zhuang minority love balls, are also available.

You should also bargain on these, of course.

[edit] Other interesting things

• Nature House, On Die Cui Lu about half a block from the river. Sells various rocks, some are interesting geological specimens while others are carved and/or painted. Fascinating.

• The Chopstick Shop, on West Street. Their factory is in Guilin and they sell wonderfully gift wrapped chopstick sets.

• Used Bookstore, 13237831208, ([18]). There is a used bookstore and reading room (with a large selection in English and some books in several other European languages) at Cafe Too at 7 Cheng Zhong Road. Prices are higher than at used bookstores in Western countries, but cheaper than new books. You can buy coffee and read them free. It is great for people living in China and missing Western books.

CDs and DVDs — Available at several stores on West Street or nearby. Nearly all such products in China are unauthorised copies, but many in Yangshuo look real. General quality, especially the packaging, is far better than the usual. Many come with booklets of lyrics or artist biography. Some have full-colour advertising printouts for the label's other offerings, I cannot imagine a "pirate" duplicating that. Selection is also good, the English music is not all Backstreet Boys and the Carpenters. Prices are also higher, ¥15-25 versus ¥6-8 for the cheap copies all over China.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Yangshuo is a great place to eat. There are dishes from all over the world and just about any region in China. You can eat cheaply in the markets with the locals or you can try comfort food in one of the many cafes in town.

Local specialties:

• Yangshuo produces very sweet and juicy grapefruit or pomelos (sha tian you), which can be bought everywhere for ¥1-2. Ask the vendor to choose one with a small top and cut it up for you.
• Beer fish — A local specialty, something most Chinese tourists try.

Beware: If you buy fish, the price displayed on the menu may be the price per 500g. A largish fish may cost you well over ¥100. Also, the local cuisine can be spicy but you can request keeping the chillies out if you don't like your food hot.

[edit] Western food

It seems almost every restaurant in Yangshuo offers burgers, shepherd's pie and a Western breakfast. Most of the staff in these places speak reasonable English, a few excellent. In general, the standard of the food is quite high.

However, there is much menu copying and some places serve rather bizarre impressions of Western dishes as prepared by Chinese chefs without the original recipe. In particular, be prepared for odd looking and tasting bread and copies of western cakes and deserts. Also, in these places the standard of the Chinese food is generally hit or miss, since Western food is their specialty. Note that it will be much more expensive than eating in China usually is.

Many of these offer free Internet access, but they generally only have one machine so you may have to wait a bit.

On West Street itself, listed from up the hill down toward the river:

• Green Lotus, 100 West Street, next to Youth Hostel, expensive.
• Cafe del Moon, near center of West Street. ¥32 all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet, ghastly croissants but the rest is good. Excellent value if you are hungry or want a lot of coffee.
• Drifters, middle of West Street. Great apple crumble and mediocre pizza.
• Cafe China, on the corner of West Street and Xianqian Jie. Great coffee, great cheesecake, packed most nights, wireless internet, also generous ¥7 brandy and good chocolate milkshake (though small).
• Twin Peaks Cafe — Standard western fare, service was pretty bad and the 'homemade' bread was very average. Avoid.

Along Xianqian Jie, off West Street near the river:

• Karst cafe — Climber hangout with good pizza (if you've been in China long - but don't spring for the stuffed crust), comfortable sofas, and wireless internet.
• The Balcony Bar — Fairly decent French food and crepe, movie every night at 9 and free internet.
• Buffalo Bar — Aussie run, with meat pies and quiz night on Thursdays. Wireless internet and a pool table
• MC Blues — Good cocktails, happy hour from 6PM to 8PM, great music, wireless internet, 2nd floor lounge and open till they close.

Along Cheng Zhong Road, perpendicular to West Street:

• 7th Heaven Cafe — Western and Chinese cuisine.
• Cafe Too, 7 Cheng Zhong Road. Has English books to read, buy or trade.

Along Guihua Lu, quieter street parallel to West Street:

• Bar 98 — Wireless internet and a pool table. Run by two Australians, has Aussie meat pies and good burritos. The mixed drinks are real - a lot of Chinese run places have very weak drinks that aren't worth the price. Also, just a nice bar feel with out the too-loud pop music.
• Red Star Express, new location a bit off West Street. Turnoffs from both West Street and Xianqian Jie are marked with a flag showing a Red Star. Excellent burritos and enchiladas.
• Kelly's Cafe — Great service and food, cheap beer. Foreigners living in Yangshuo often hang out here. Also offers free wireless internet. The Kelly's Cafe on Guiha street is better than the one of the side street- they both have milk shakes and their veggie burger is in fact the best in China as claimed. Also, a nice view and an ample breakfast.
• Soul Cafe — A great coffee house opposite Kelly's.
• Valentine, on the corner of Guiha Lu and the small bridge towards west street. French Chef Nicolas with a romantic atmosphere. Original first class fusion cuisine. Great desert and best chocolate cake of all the city. A good selection of tapas and cocktails.
• The Alley— Recently opened, just across the Kaya with a big round bar in the middle and a real western bar atmosphere, Offers hugh burgers, draft beer, pool table, free wierless and more than 60 uniqe Cocktails
• Kaya— Just recently started doing food, the usual Western dishes and some Chinese. More famous for their parties and concerts, see the drinking section.

• Yak Cafe, 16 Gui Hua Lu. Specialties include Yak cheese Pizza, Homemade whole wheat, white and banana breads, maple syrup imported from Canada. Their brownie is mass-produced chocolate cake, which is no good. They don't make noodles any more. It used to be owned by Sula from Tibet and Andrew from Canada and then they sold it to a local. Non Smoking Restaurant as well. No longer here  edit

Along Furong Lu, quiet street perpendicular to Diecui Lu:

• The Flying Dutchman, [19] — Wireless internet and a quiet environment. Run by a Dutch guy, has traditional Dutch dishes and the best burger in town. Away from all the sales people. Cheap Western Rooms.

Outside town:

• Luna (（听月餐厅）), Yangshuo Village Inn, Moon Hill Village (Rooftop of Yangshuo Village Inn), ☎ 86-773-8778189, [20]. 12:00-01:00. Italian restaurant located on the rooftop of Yangshuo Village Inn [21] in Moon Hill Village. Designed by Yangshuo Mountain Retreat [22] owner, Chris Barclay, Luna offers gorgeous views of Moon Hill and the surrounding village. They also serve gourmet Chinese dumplings and offer a full bar. There's no elevator so be prepared to walk up. $5-6/plate.  edit

[edit] Chinese food

• Cloud Nine — A popular Chinese place on West Street.
• Ganguoyu (干锅鱼) — A "dry pot" fish restaurant very popular with the locals. It is located beside the pond on Jiefang Lu (between the petrol station and the tunnel).
• Yangshuo Ren (阳朔人) — A Chinese restaurant very popular with the locals. It specializes in beer fish and other hot pots. It is on the market street between Sunshine 100 and the 99 supermarket.
• Beifang Jiaozi Guan (北方饺子馆) (Note: sign also reads in English "Dynasty of Dumplings") — This "northern dumplings" restaurant on Xianqian Jie near the intersection with Die Cui Lu and right around the corner from the Magnolia Hotel has fantastic North-East Chinese cuisine.
• Huang Jin Lian — This is a good restaurant on Diecui Rd (parallel to West St) serving the local delicacies. The local shrimp dish is interesting as you eat them whole so they have a bit of crunch. Be prepared to pay ¥1 for the provision of the shrink wrapped dish set and ¥1 for a bowl of rice. This restaurant is quite close to the market that runs along the river and service is friendly.
• The night market — Used to be located near the bus station, now head into the markets across the road or down to Gui Hua Lu. There is quite a variety of food, much of it at low prices (although still more expensive than elsewhere in China). They even serve dog, rat, oysters, mussels, rabbit, duck, shrimp, frog, the local mud snails and a variety of other surprising dishes! Make sure to haggle. WARNING: Take very good care of your belongings -- there are some very accomplished sneak thieves and pickpockets specialising in wallets, phones and passports.

[edit] Vegetarian

• Pure Lotus Vegetarian Restaurant (暗香疏影 素菜馆) [23] — Down near the river end of Die Cie Lu. Word of caution though: If you are absolutely strict about not wanting to come into contact with meat, be the reasons morally or religiously, know that the staff of this restaurant uses the kitchen to cook their meat in the same pans as the vegetarian dishes. Very yummy food - XO "steak" and vegetable balls and carmelized tarro. The stuffed tomatoes are not good, and neither is the spicy tofu.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Considering its size, Yangshuo has a pretty boisterous nightlife. Most restaurants along the main street stay open late and serve alcohol. Several have live music.

There are also several clubs located near the bus terminal, which sometimes stay open until 5 or 6AM and other nights are shut by midnight. There doesn't seem to be a method to their hours, worth going down and seeing if they're open. There should be no cover, and frequently there's an opportunity to see young PLA soldiers from the nearby base in a decidedly un-military context.

As with Guilin, the local drink is Guilin Three-flower Wine, although most residents seem to prefer a glass of Tsingtao or Baijiu.

• River Bar, Bing Jiang Road (From the river end of West Street, turn left at the Li River, walk upstream for 5 minutes. When you reach the Electric Vehicle Station look for the sign on the right, walk through the gate, down the stairs to the river.), ☎ 13878377013. Evenings from about 5PM... sometimes earlier. Closed through winter, open again March when the weather is nicer! The only riverside bar in town... right alongside the Li River with stunning views of the karst mountains and surrounding coutryside. Close enough from town to walk to, but far enough away so there are no people selling trinkets or souvenirs. A great place to relax in the evenings watching the local boats and fisherman float by. Fresh fruit frozen daiquiris are the speciality, along with great mojitos, imported red and white wines, sangrias, local and Australian ice cold beers and much more. Snacks available, or order from a nearby restaurant Rock'n Grill (best pizzas in town and good Chinese cuisine too). The location is actually Yangshuo Cooking School by day, then in the evenings transforms to a quiet, relaxing bar with great cocktails and generous servings.  edit
• The Alley, Guihua Road (Guihua Road runs parallel to West Street, on the Yangshuo Park side). This bar, run by a few expats, is a great place for a couple of drinks. They serve most local beers, and a number of cocktails as well as harder stuff (absinthe, etc.) Nice open frontage and a the circular bar is in the middle of the place. From 8 Yuan for a local beer.  edit
• Buffalo Bar, Xianqianjie #50 (Just off West St), [24]. Australian run bar in the town centre and popular with westerers. Has a pool and fussball table. Run table quizs and pool competitions and have WiFi. ¥8 local beer.  edit
• Cafe le Votre. Set back from the street with a courtyard in front, is a brew pub with its own beer. They have two brews, a wheat beer and a dark beer, both are rare finds in China. They also have French and Chinese food. Their courtyard is a great place for people-watching, but unfortunately it is also convenient for touts to find you.  edit
• China Climb, Xi Jie (West Street). Has a bar and a bouldering wall. China Climb guides and other climbers hang out there in the evenings.  edit
• Kaya, Guihua Lu 47 (Next to Dr Lily Li, opposite Alley bar.). A reggae bar, with a larger range of music though, often has good live music (permanent open mic) and very laidback atmosphere. Also has a branch in Guilin city.  edit
• Monkey Jane's Rooftop Bar, (Set back from West Street up an alley near the river end - Sign-posted.). Offers panoramic views of Yangshuo, and is perfect for meeting other backpackers.  edit
• Loove Bar, Guihua Rd 48 (Next to Dr Lily Li), ☎ 07738823918. The owner, Nina, is the sweetest and most fun-loving person. She speaks good english. The place attracts a consistent crowd of westerners as well as locals.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

There are many places to stay in Yangshuo from ¥20/night for a dorm room through US$100/night for a luxury bungalow. Hotel touts are to be found around the main bus station but best avoided. Prices are very negotiable in the off season, and the asking price will be many times lower than that advertised on signs in the hotel lobby. Don't be afraid to negotiate!

One word of warning, any place within a block of West Street will likely be very loud, as apparently every bar on West Street turns up their sound systems to the max until 2AM. One can assume any at accommodation on West Street it will be nearly impossible to sleep until after the bars close.

[edit] Budget

• Backpackers' Hostel, Just off West Street.  edit
• Breeze Inn, #30 Furong Road, ☎ +86 773 8815959 , +86 (0) 13977331919, [25]. Situated in a quiet street just 4 min walk from West Street, the heart of Yangshuo. Great mountain views.  edit
• Double Moon Hotel, 16 Xian Qian St. Offers private rooms with hot showers for reasonable prices in off season. Decent, clean rooms with TV and double bed, helpful staff. There are also several other good budget options surrounding this hotel. From ¥40/night (* but you need to negotiate).  edit
• Flowers Youth Hostel, 90, Pantao Road (2 minutes from bus station, oppisite Yangshuo Park), ☎ 0773 8822538 (yhayangshuo@hotmail.com). This HI hostel is located beside the bus station and 5 mins walk from West Street. It's a good location for those who like to sleep at night. Probably the busiest hostel in the off season. Internet, free wifi, bike rental and laundry service. Dorm ¥20(¥15 member), twin ¥70-¥100, single/double ¥60-¥90. Free breakfast with twin, single and double rooms.  edit
• Lisa's Cafe, West Street. The original hostel in Yangshuo, and one with a lot of character, though these days looks a little dilapidated. Dorm beds from 25.  edit
• Monkey Jane's Hotel & Rooftop Bar, Off West Street (Near the river end, well signed). Reliable service and friendly English-speaking staff.  edit
• Moon Resort, Moon Hill village (In front of the mountain. Take the GaoTian bus from Yanshuo station 8 km / 15 minutes to Moon Hill Village (Y2.5).), ☎ +86 773 8777688 (moon.resort@gmail.com), [26].  edit Great value with good local and Western food, friendly and helpful staff, and a pleasent location with great views of the local karst scenery. Close to the Moon Hill, Big Banyan tree, the Yulong river, and several caves.
• Riverside Lodge, Government Front Road (Not far from the river, north from west street), ☎ +86 773 8824279 / +86 158 7700 3358. The tallest building in Yangshuo with a nice view over the whole city from the rooftop terrace. Slightly hard to find at first, but in a very peaceful area between the police station and the town government office, with only two or three minutes walk to the busiest streets. English-speaking boss who lets you use the kitchen and can reserve cheaper tickets for you to all tourist destinations. Clean and recently renovated rooms with air conditioning, bike rental is also possible without deposit. ¥70.  edit
• Xi Jie House Inn, PanTao Road (Behind the Industrial and Commercial Bank). Should be avoided. Mr. Li will meet you at the bus stop and grab you to take you to XiJie. The place is not very nice, but a very cool design and cheap. Just remember that these guys are really pushy trying to get you to do their tours. They get a cut. If you can speak a little Chinese, just stay here and book the tours on your own.  edit
• Yangshuo Senior Leader Youth Hostel, No. 36 FuQianXiang, Die Cui Road, Yangshuo (From the bus stateion, walk right down Die Cui Road for about five minutes. Turn Left into an alleyway that is directly across the street from Guihua Lu, pass a laundromat on your left.), ☎ 0773-6919780, [27]. checkin: 24 hrs; checkout: 12:00 PM. Excellent hostel with spacious lobby, Wi-fi plus free internet on in-house computers, consistently clean rooms and bathrooms. The staff speaks good english, knows the town well, and will help you get the same prices that the locals pay for all the sightseeing spots. If you get up early enough they'll often bring you free coffee. Very social atmosphere, guests often stay up late into the night playing cards and talking. Discounts on Tuesdays if you come wearing orange. From 35 yuan for 8-bed dorm.  edit
• Youth Hostel, 102 West Street (Near the Pantou Lu end), ☎ +86 773 8820933 (hostel-ys@163.com).  edit

[edit] Mid range

• 7th heaven cafe, 2 Cheng Zhong Road, ☎ +86-773-8826101 (the7thheavencafe@hotmail.com). 1 min from West street, for the ones that want to have a peaceful place to stay in the center, great restaurant down stairs, Movies every nigth and great service in English. free internet and wifi. around 120 big duble room.  edit
• Blue Lotus, Near middle of West Street. ¥60/night for single with shower, TV, and a western toilet..  edit
• Breeze villa, No.5 Yulongriver village, ☎ +86 773 8771199 (toursky@hotmail.com), [28]. A Villa with the most beautiful private mountain and garden in Yangshuo with a romantic waterfall and quiet corners. It is in Yulong , a village 9 km from Yangshuo ,incredible views. From ¥80.  edit
• Fawlty Towers, (On the main street (opposite the Bus Station)), [29]. Decent rooms, helpful staff. ¥50 (Private room, off-season).  edit
• Friend Hotel, No. 2 Chenzhong Lu (Coming down West Street from Pantao Lu, turn left into Chenzhong Lu and cross the bridge over the creek. The hotel is the second establishment on the right.), ☎ +86 773 8828696, +86 13807735906. Clean and just far away from West Street to be quiet. Staff are friendly. Rooms with western toilet and hot water shower. ¥80-120 (Twin/double, off-season).  edit
• Karst Hotel, (Located in the alley directly across from the entrance to China Climb), [30]. Run by the same people who own the Karst Cafe and operate Karst Climbing. For travelers on a budget, the dormitory rooms are clean and comfortable and contain a bathroom with a western-style toilet and a shower. ¥15 (Summer 2007).  edit
• Lisa's Mountain View Hotel, [31]. Situated in a quiet street just 4 min walk from West Street, Restaurants, Bars and the heart of Yangshuo. Great mountain views.  edit
• MorningSun Hotel, 4 Chenzhong Lu (Next to Friend Hotel), ☎ +86 773 8813899, [32].  edit
• Outside Inn, Chao Long Village, ☎ 0773 8817109 / 139773 51571, [33]. Restored farmhouse located in a small village (Chao Long) 4 km from town in a beautiful, quiet setting. Very friendly staff with great advice in multiple languages (Chinese, English, German, French). Relaxed atmosphere, great for families. Restaurant, air-conditioning an option, bicycle hire, free wifi. ¥120 (room) - 350 (house).  edit
• Rosewood Inn, 21 Gui Hua Lu (Situated in a quiet alley along a small stream just a few steps away from the West Street.), [34]. Charming wooden decoration and great comfort in a calm environment. ¥100-300.  edit
• Sihai Hotel, [35].  edit
• Water Buffalo Guesthouse, [36].  edit
• White Lion, West Street.  edit
• Yangshuo Culture House, (On the edge of town within walking distance of West Street.), [37]. They provide cooked dinner at 6PM (with the other guests, so no chance to practice Chinese in case that's what you were hoping for), we did not see any of the classes advertised on their website. Rooms were warm in winter. ¥70 per person per night.  edit
• Yangshuo Village Inn, Moon Hill Village, [38]. Yangshuo's first boutique hotel. Located in Moon Hill Village close to caves, rivers and Liu San Jie lightshow. Eight beautifully appointed rooms with solar hot water in summer, American Standard fixtures, handmade bamboo beds, private bath and amazing views of Moon Hill and surrounding limestone karst towers. Also great Italian restaurant, bikes to rent and helpful staff.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Dragon River Retreat, [39]. A new, beautiful hotel located on the bank of the Yulong River surrounded by limestone peaks and bamboo forests.  edit
• Magnolia Hotel, 7 Die Cui Lu (A block from the river and West Street), ☎ 86 773 8819288 (fax: 86 773 8819218), [40]. Air-conditioned, centrally located, close to the action, and clean. Perhaps more sterile than classy.  edit
• Moon Hill Resort, ☎ +86 15877003366, [41]. ·Picking fresh fruits in green garden provides the experience of life in countryside. ·Traditionally constructed in the style of Ming and Qing Dynasties architecture with wood gates, green bricks, flying eaves, well in yard, carved wood-flower windows, wall paintings, ancient styled armchairs and tables, hundred-year- old wood carving and etc. ¥180.  edit
• The Giggling Tree, [42]. A guesthouse created from farmhouses surrounding a courtyard in Aishanmen, a village 5 km from Yangshuo. Friendly owners (dutch) and free internet. Restaurant is really good. Costs 30 Yuan to get into the town by taxi. Good atmosphere and great staff. ¥120-250.  edit
• Hotel of Modern Art, (Approximately 30 minutes drive from Yangshuo). This hotel is set inside Yuzi Paradise [43], a park full of stunning modern art in a remote rural location.  edit
• West Street River Side Hotel, ☎ +86 13635185699 (diduserver@hotmail.com), [44]. Good location, great views and with great rooms. ¥220.  edit
• Li River Retreat, [45]. Great views and with great rooms.  edit
• Regency Holiday Hotel, The inland end of West Street, ☎ +86 773 8817200. Satellite TV and air conditioning.  edit
• Riverside Retreat, [46]. Country-side location with beautiful views, English speaking staff and western-style accommodations.  edit
• Snow Lion Resort. 3 kms out of town. Great views, clean, friendly, Wi-Fi.  edit
• Yangshuo Mountain Retreat, [47]. A hidden gem just outside of town right on the banks of the Yulong River. China expat favorite, spectacular views of karst and river, Wi-Fi, full indoor and outdoor dining and bar ¥250-450.  edit
• Green Lotus Hotel, [48]. A large, new (built 2009), Western-style hotel set right on the river with most if not all rooms having a river view. Hotel is upmarket but a little lacking in personality.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

Yangshou has lots of pickpockets, especially on local minibuses. Be aware of who sits next to you, they sometimes operate by distracting you when its busy and even cutting open pockets with a razor blade.

Several tour operators in the area are also less than scrupulous. Beware when catching bamboo rafts as some of the tour operators will drop you off well before your intended destination.

[edit] Get out

Because Yangshuo is so dependent on backpacking tourists, you'll find a range of services and agencies not commonly found in China. There are ample places that sell plane tickets to all other provincial capitals and some international destinations. There are also bus and sleeper bus services available towards Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Kunming. Train tickets (which will depart from Guilin) are also available.

There are tickets available all the way to Hanoi in Vietnam. These aren't easily available elsewhere, and can save quite a bit of hassle at the China/Vietnam border. Vietnamese visas can also be obtained in Yangshuo, but the process takes several days, so plan accordingly.

To Nanning — Three daily buses go to Nanning, leaving Yangshuo at 8AM, 8:50AM, and 11:30AM. They go to Guilin first where they stop for just a short time to pick up passengers. Tickets cost ¥120. In Nanning, the 8AM bus stops in the Langdong bus terminal while the 8:50AM bus goes to the Jiangnan bus terminal.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!