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Xiahe
From Wikitravel
Contents
Xiahe (夏河; Xiàhé; Tibetan: Labrang) is an ethnically-Tibetan town in Gansu Province, China.
[edit] Understand
The town lies along one main street which parallels the Daxia River. The Chinese section (commercial) lies to the eastern end of the road and the Tibetan section lies at the western end. The monastery lies in between the two sections.
The town is open to foreigners at this time.
If you need any information about the town of Xiahe, Labrang Monastery, or the Xiahe region, go visit Snowy Mountain Cafe located to the left of the Overseas Tibetan Hotel on the 2nd floor. Eugene, the American owner, can provide you with all kinds of info that you will never read in your guidebook or hear from other locals. If he is not there, you can read some of his travel articles posted on their website: [1]. When I just tried to open the Snowy Mtn Cafe website (July 16, 2009), it was being blocked in China. I managed to gain access using the following proxy: [2]
Another great way to get info about the area is to contact a Dutch woman who married a Tibetan and who has been living in Xiahe for many years. They have website with tours and other related info. Just send a email to claryvmeij@hotmail.com or google "Clary van Meijel".
[edit] Get in
[edit] By bus
Xiahe Bus Station, about 1.5km down the main street away from the entrance to the monastery.
- Langmusi via Hezuo - takes about 4 hours.
- Lanzhou - takes about 4-5 hours.
- Linxia - takes about 2 hours.
From Lanzhou - Only Lanzhou Nanzhan (Lanzhou South Bus Terminal, near Lanzhou University of Technology shortly Li Gong Da) serves the buses to Linxia, Gannan (including Xiahe, Hezuo and Langmusi, etc.). 2/3 of the road Lanzhou-Linxia is highway, thus trip time shortened now, for about 2.5 hrs. Be careful to the people around you outside the ticketing office of Lanzhou Nanzhan. Frequency: about every 30 minutes serves a bus from Lanzhou to Linxia, starting 7am-5pm, trip time about 2.5hrs. Also every 30 minutes a bus from Linxia to Xiahe, trip time 1.5hrs. While only 3 direct buses, trip time about 4 hrs, Lanzhou Nanzhan-Xiahe, 6.30 7.30 and 14.30. So you may take bus to Linxia, and from Linxia to Xiahe for your flexible time. - come with 2 copeis of your passport and the chinise visa. I got there at 7:10 and I coulden't buy tickts until I made this copies, the shop that make the copeis spose to open at 8:00 and it's across the road if you get out of the station
Xiahe-Langmusi, now 1 bus a day available. From Xiahe at 7:40AM, and from Langmusi back to Xiahe at 2PM, fare about ¥44 or above due to fuel price arising.
[edit] Get around
Minibus-taxis are the primary mode transportation for tourists. They run up and down the main street kind of like a bus would. The price should be 1 RMB per person no matter where you get on or off. If you take up more than one seat (with your bags) then pay for however many seats you used.*
[edit][add listing] See
- Labrang Monastery. There is an English tour in the morning and at 3:15PM. One of the six great monasteries of the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Built in 1709 and containing tens of thousands of cultural artifacts, Tibetian sculptures and 60,000 texts. The English tour costs ¥60 (with or without the tour). edit
[edit][add listing] Do
[edit][add listing] Buy
There are dozens of shops in Xiahe that sell locally made crafts including colorful textiles, silver jewelry, Tibetan hats, and fake antiques. Bargaining is a must. One product you should not buy are the many furs for sale. The skins for sale have been poached in China or in neighboring countries. Asia's wildlife is quickly disappearing as China's appetite for illegal animal products increases. Please don't contribute to this crisis.
[edit][add listing] Eat
- Snowy Mountain Cafe. Authentic Western food and local favorites. Currently managed by a local couple and an American, although the American owner (Eugene?) is often not around. Located just next to the Overseas Tibetan Hotel on the 2nd floor. edit
- Tsewong's Cafe, (On the main road, in the city section, 2nd floor). Best Pizza and Burritos in China!!! Unbelievable food, shocking to find such good western food here! Tsewong learned to make pizza from a German expat, and imports his cheese from Europe. 25-40RMB. edit
[edit][add listing] Drink
[edit][add listing] Sleep
[edit] Budget
- Tara Guesthouse, (Across from the Monestery), ☎ +86 941 7122866. edit
- The Monastery Guesthouse, (On the left-hand side as you walk into the monastary complex along the main road, not easy to spot). Extremely basic. Cheap. edit
also saw the construction of a new YHA,Labrang Redrock International Youth Hostel,turn left from entrance way to monastery. 0941-7123698
[edit] Mid-range
- Overseas Tibetan Hotel, (Next to Tara Guesthouse), ☎ +86 941 7122642. edit
- Snowlands Hotel, (Across from Tara Guesthouse), ☎ +86 941 7122866. edit
- White Conch Hotel, (Near), ☎ +86 941 7122486. edit
- Labrang Baoma Hotel, (Across from Overseas Tibetan). Large and clean rooms. Doubles with en-suite bathrooms cost ¥100-200 RMB (according to season and bargaining skills). edit
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Get Out
- Ganjia Grasslands - I think the Ganjia area is the most beautiful region in Xiahe. There are 4 things to see at Ganjia:
The first are the Ganjia Grasslands. The Grasslands are not the primary reason to visit Ganjia, but you will pass through them on your way there and the whole region is covered in grasslands during the summer months.
The second thing is the ancient town of Bajiao (Bajiao Cheng （八角城）in Chinese). This is a walled village that was originally built in the Han Dynasty (around 2000 years ago). Bajiao Cheng is still inhabited today and it is one of the key reasons (if not the best reason!) to visit Ganjia! Note, you will be asked to pay a 10 RMB entrance fee to go into the village.
The third reason to go to Ganjia is to see the amazing White Rock Cliffs （Bai Shi Ya - 白石崖）that tower above the northern end of the valley! As you get closer to Bajiao Cheng, you won't be able to miss the cliffs high up in front of you.
The final reason to visit the Ganjia area is to see the small monastery that sits right at the foot of the White Rock Cliffs. There is actually a small village together with the monastery. If the place is still open, you can have a bite to eat or get a drink at the only cafe/store near the monastery.
Getting to Ganjia is the difficult part. There are no public buses that will take you to Bajiao Cheng or the monastery at the foot of the White Rock Cliffs. Most people hire a taxi from Xiahe for about 200-400 RMB per vehicle per day (5-8 hours round trip). The vehicles that go to Ganjia are almost always the minivans that seat 6 people plus the driver. So if you get together with some other travellers, you can get there for as little as 40 RMB or so per person.
If you are a very adventurous person you can get to Ganjia by taking the early morning bus to Tongren/Repcon (同仁) and getting off at Ganjia Town (Ganjia Xiang – 甘加乡). From there it would be at least a 10-12 kilometer hike to get to Bajiao Cheng, the monastery at the foot of the White Rock Cliffs, and back to the town. And you would need to get back to Ganjia town by about lunch time because that is when the bus coming from Xining or Tongren comes by on its way to Xiahe. The only other option would be to wait and wait until you could catch a motorcycle, taxi, or tractor back to Xiahe. But there are no promises that you will find anything.
If you decide to hire a car like most people do, the best place to organize your trip to Ganjia is by asking someone who speaks English at your hotel. I have known the Tara Guesthouse and the White Stupa Hotel to connect numerous tourists with taxi drivers who have taken them on enjoyable trips to Ganjia.
You can also come and visit us at the Snowy Mountain Cafe. If I am available, I can take you myself on the tour of Ganjia! We are located on the 2nd floor of the building just to the left of the Overseas Tibetan Hotel.
- Darzong Lake （Da’erzong Hu - 达尔宗湖） - Darzong Lake is one of the most interesting places to visit in the Xiahe region. It is a highland lake located at just above 3,000 meters (10,000 ft.) elevation. There are mountains surrounding the lake on almost all sides and forests all around.
There are two ways to get to the lake. The first is simply to hire any taxi from Xiahe to the lake. You can get there round trip (2-3 hours) for around 100 RMB, or one way for 50 RMB. If you go one-way in a taxi, you will then need to walk down the mountain road back to the main highway and hitch a ride on any of the numerous buses that pass by on their way to Xiahe each hour.
If you don't want to pay for a taxi, you can also get there by taking a bus and walking. Take any bus leaving Xiahe going towards Linxia (临夏) or Hezuo（合作）(every half-hour) and get off 20 km (about half an hour) down the highway when you see a big sign on the right side of the road with another dirt road heading up the mountain on the left hand side of the road. Or you can just tell the driver that you want to go to Darzong Lake and he should let you know when you arrive at the turnoff.
Once you get off the bus, you need to start walking up the dirt road on the left. It is about a 1 or 1 and 1/2 hour hike up the road to the lake. You will be charged a 10 RMB entrance fee as you pass through the only Tibetan village along the road. When you want to head back to Xiahe, just walk back down the road to the highway and catch another bus back to town. The bus fare between there and Xiahe should be around 5 RMB but the bus drivers will probably try to charge you 10 RMB.
- Hills above Xiahe - take a trek to the hills above Xiahe for a nice view over the city and it's surroundings and enjoy the peace and tranquility disturbed only by occasional sheppard and his flock.
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