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Wenchuan
From Wikitravel
Wenchuan (汶川) is a small town in Sichuan’s Aba Tibetan-Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, which straddles the confluence of the Min and Zagunao Rivers. Wenchuan county is one of only 4 counties that are the main location of China’s Qiang (羌) ethnic group – the others being Lixian, Maoxian and Beichuan.
[edit] Understand
Being on the main route from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou National Park, Wenchuan has until recently been a ‘passing through’ place where tourist groups stop off for meals or visit the traditional Qiang village of Taoping (桃坪) in neighbouring Lixian county. However, this whole Qiang area is gradually becoming a destination in its own right, being much more accessible from Chengdu for a long week-end, and will become more so once the new road from Chengdu is completed. It is less crowded than the more well-known destinations in Ngawa Prefecture and has some good ‘off-the-beaten-track’ areas to explore. Wenchuan is also known as one of the most important giant panda reservations located in the south-western China.
[edit] History
The Qiang people have traditionally lived between the Tibetans to the north and the Han to the south and for centuries Wenchuan has been a place where ethnic groups overlap. The remains of defensive walls from the Three Kingdoms period (220-265 AD) and from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) are still visible on the hills above the town. Further back in the mists of history, legend has it that Yu the Great, one of China’s famous ancestors, was born in this area, and a temple in his honour is situated near the Three Kingdoms wall remains. Other evidence of inter-ethnic encounters are the striking watchtowers and fortress-like style of some of the local Qiang villages, built high up on the mountain tops, e.g. the three towers of Buwa village which can be seen high above Wenchuan.
[edit] Get in
Wenchuan is easily accessible by bus from Chengdu. Buses coming down from Jiuzhaigou/Songpan and from Hongyuan/Ma’erkang to Chengdu also stop in Wenchuan. All Chengdu buses depart from/arrive in Chadianzi bus station in the west of Chengdu. A new road, which bypasses Dujiangyan, has been completed since the May 2008 earthquake and on a good day the journey between Chengdu and Wenchuan is only 2½ hours. The ticket price is about 45 RMB and there are several buses a day. There are also buses going between Wenchuan and the main bus station in Dujiangyan. [The bus station in Wenchuan has been demolished since the quake but the buses still depart from the same location.]
[edit] Get around
Unless you have your own vehicle you will need to hire taxis or minivans for local travel, although there are local walks directly out from Wenchuan. Taxis out to the tourist villages of Taoping and Luobozhai should be about 40-60Y. Minivans can be hired for around the same price unless you find one with locals already heading to your destination, then the price should be about 10Y per person.
[edit][add listing] See
The Qiang villages and natural scenery are the biggest draws of the area. Although the earthquake did much damage it is now possible to visit the area and tourism is slowly picking up.
Luobozhai village (萝卜寨), which is about 20 minutes by hired van or taxi from Wenchuan towards Songpan/Jiuzhigou(c.60 RMB), is in a marvellous location on a small plateau near the top of a mountain. It has a stunning view of the main Min River valley. The original village was badly damaged in the earthquake but new homes have been rebuilt alongside the old site. The road up to Luobozhai is good and the view is still great!
Taoping village (桃坪) is in Lixian rather than Wenchuan county, but is roughly the same distance as Luobozhai, going north on the Ma'erkang/Hongyuan road, and well worth a visit. It has 3 towers and is very fortress-like with an inner maze of winding alleyways and an underground water system which sustained them in times of siege. Many tourists come in tour groups which just stop for an hour, ‘do the villages’ and then move on. This means the countryside beyond the villages is often quiet and uncrowded, with locals just going about their daily work in the fields. Although adjacent new guest houses were irretrievably damaged in the quake, the traditional village survived remarkably well and is still open for tourists.
Yanmen village and beauty spot is about 15 minutes by taxi/minivan from Wenchuan on the road north to Songpan/Jiuzhaigou. This has tea houses, good walks and places to picnic.
Qi Pan Gou Travelling south about 15 minutes from Wenchuan on the Chengdu road, there is a village called Qi Pan Gou and a left turn takes you up an unsurfaced road along a stream to a good walking area.
Qiangfeng Village. Further south and across a plank suspension bridge on the right of the main Chengdu road you can walk up to the Qiang village of Qiangfeng. There were plans to develop this as a tourist village but they never really took off so it is less ‘touristy’ than Taoping and Luobozhai.
Buwa Village high up on the mountains with its three watchtowers is visible from the main street of Wenchuan. If you can make it to Buwa, it's worth going further up to the plateau area at the top.
Longxi Valley is up a right turn on the same road out to Taoping. This is an area where the Qiang language is spoken. A 20 minute drive up the valley takes you to Ba Duo Zhai village and beyond this is unspoilt countryside with a small mountain lake. There are hopes of developing this area as a site of natural beauty and it may become a good trekking opportunity with a 3-4 day walk through to Maoxian. A few campers have already discovered the area.
[edit][add listing] Do
Wenchuan is not very tourist-orientated as a town but there are plenty of restaurants and shops, a couple of vegetable markets, and a pleasant small-town atmosphere. In the evening some of the locals do Qiang and Tibetan dancing outside the biggest supermarket on the main street. It is a good centre to stay in and then go out to the neighbouring villages and valleys. If you stay in Luobozhai or Taoping, they sometimes have traditional Qiang dancing and singing in the evenings, with a bonfire, and – if visitors orders it – a goat-roast. This is more frequent at week-ends and on national or Qiang holidays.
The mountains are steep around Wenchuan, with narrow valleys and rushing streams. These valleys are not always easily visible from the main road but some of them are well worth exploring. Because Taoping gets much of the tourist traffic, many other villages are definitely still off the beaten track. Longxi (龙溪) valley is about 20 minutes by minivan or taxi from Wenchuan and is a right turn across a narrow bridge a few kilometres before Taoping. It is an attractive valley and if you make the 3 hour trek along the Longxi road to the village of A’er, the landscape changes from steep mountain to open walking country and virgin forest. One or two small groups of intrepid explorers have camped here.
[edit][add listing] Buy
Qiang handicrafts and specialty foods are on sale in the town and in the more tourist-orientated local villages (predominantly Taoping and Luobozhai at present). It’s definitely worth bargaining if you want a fair price – although an unfair price will help the locals more. The region is famous for its fruit and, in season, has apples, pears, plums, peaches, walnuts, cherries...
[edit][add listing] Eat
The Qiang are famous for collecting wild vegetables and also for their cured ham so it’s well worth having a Qiang meal – very healthy and full of flavor. Their staple food used to be maize although rice has largely replaced this in many areas. Another simple but good traditional food is small potatoes cooked in their skins and dipped in a chilli and salt mix. At the junction of the two main shopping streets (opposite 'Wenchuan Di Yi Xiaoxue - Wenchuan No 1 Primary School) there is a tiny cafe selling 'ciba' - Qiang potato dumplings in a wonderful soup.
[edit][add listing] Drink
The Qiang have a traditional mild alcohol called ‘za jiu’(咂酒) or ‘sucking wine’. At festivals this is drunk through communal long bamboo straws from a single, large jar. However, it can also be requested at meals as a bottled drink. Other standard drinks are generally available (water, Coke, etc). Chinese tea is often served with meals.
[edit][add listing] Sleep
Since the earthquake, the Ying Hotel adjacent to the river has been replaced by an arts/education centre but there are still at least three hotels in Wenchuan. 1. The International Travel Hotel: turn left out of the bus station area and keep walking until you reach a 3-way broad junction - the hotel is across the junction on your left. Twin rooms with shower and western toilet are about 240 RMB (with breakfast). 2. The Kaiyi Hotel:go up the main shopping street and cross the river via the traffic bridge in the centre of town, continue straight ahead and the Kaiyi Hotel is on the left at the T-junction. Twin rooms with shower and western toilet are around 240 RMB (no breakfast). 3. The Sang Ping Hotel: not far from the Kaiyi Hotel. Cross the river via the footbridge (just beyond the traffic bridge) and keep walking straight. The Sang Ping Hotel is on the left at the T-junction. Twin rooms with shower and squat toilet are around 100 RMB (no breakfast). Pleasant local staff. Clean but unfortunately smokers have damaged the carpets.
In Taoping there is accommodation available in fairly basic but clean and comfortable guest rooms which are extensions to family homes. Prices start from around 60RMB for bed, breakfast and evening meal.
[edit] Contact
[edit] Get out
There are buses going north on the route to Ma'erkang and Hongyuan or to Songpan and Jiuzhaigou and buses south to Dujiangyan and Chengdu. It is possible to hire a taxi or minivan for the journey but not much point as the buses are very convenient.
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