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Wadi Rum

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Cliffs in Wadi Rum
Cliffs in Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is a spectacularly scenic desert valley (wadi in Arabic) in southern Jordan.

[edit] Understand

This area of Jordan is quite isolated and largely inhospitable to settled life. The only permanent inhabitants are several thousand Bedouin nomads and villagers. There is no real infrastructure, leaving the area quite unspoilt. Apart from the Bedouin goat hair tents, the only structures are a few concrete shops and houses and the fort headquarters of the Desert Patrol Corps.

T E Lawrence (of Arabia) spent a significant amount of time here during the course of the British-inspired Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire during the First World War (1914-1918). Fans of the 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia will be familiar with the landscape, which is not so much sand dunes as it is a mass of soaring cliffs and sandstone and granite mountains (jebel in Arabic).

rocks
rocks

[edit] Get in

Wadi Rum seen from Desert Highway
Wadi Rum seen from Desert Highway

Wadi Rum is a short detour from the Desert Highway between Amman and Aqaba. A side road leads to the entrance where you will find a visitor centre, a police office and a lot of potential guides offering camel and 4x4 treks. The cost to enter into Wadi Rum is 2 Jordanian Dinars (JD) per person. (This fee is waived if you enter with a tour operator).

[edit] From Aqaba

Direct buses from Aqaba leave two to three times a day - the last regular bus leaves at 1pm. However, you can jump on any bus headed to Amman, Ma'an or Petre and get off at the Wadi Rum Intersection mentioned above. The minibus journey should cost 1-2 JD per person.

Once at the intersection, you can hitch hike (common in this part of Jordan) or take another minibus (they seem to turn up quite regularly) to the Visitor's Centre where you can meet your guide. This part of the trip shouldn't cost more than 4JD per person.

A private taxi from Aqaba will cost you 15-20 JD but will take you to the Visitor's centre. Taxis from the Israeli border will probably cost 20-25 JD.

[edit] From Petra

There is currently one bus per day from Wadi Musa (Petra) that leaves at 6:30AM and costs 5JD. The trip generally takes 1.5 hours and tickets should be booked through your hotel at Petra. The bus stops at the Visitor's Centre and Rum Village and returns to Wadi Musa for visitors travelling on to Petra.

Taxis to and from Petra cost 25-30JD.

[edit] From Amman

No bus goes directly to/from Amman, but regular buses head towards Aqaba or Ma'an. Again, you can get off at the Wadi Rum Intersection. Service taxis will also stop here for you and are generally quicker than the buses. Taxis should cost 15-25 JD.

[edit] Get around

Private vehicles are prohibited past of the village of Wadi Rum. If you want to experience the grandeur that the Wadi has to offer, you will need to hire a guided camel or 4-wheel-drive tour. The costs may vary based on the guide, the length of the trip, and your willingness and ability to bargain.

[edit][add listing] See

Umm Fruth Rock Bridge
Umm Fruth Rock Bridge
Lawrence's House
Lawrence's House
  • Lawrence's house: Nobody is certain that this was Lawrence's house, although there are stories that he both stayed and/or stored weapons here. The current structure is built upon the remains of a Nabataean building, however, and it's another beautiful spot in the desert.
  • Lawrence's Spring: Just 2km (1.2 miles) south-west of the village of Rum. The spring is at the top of a short scramble - head for the fig tree! Although the pool itself is largely unprepossessing, being a stagnant puddle, the views across the desert are truly spectacular.
  • The Nabataean Temple: Near the Rest House in Rum Village. The surrounding area is covered in Thamudic and Kufic rock art.
  • The Anfashieh Inscriptions: Not far from the red Sand Dune area this mountain has depictions of a camel caravan from the Nabatean and Thaumadic period.
  • Burdah Rock Bridge: On many tours you only view this from a distance, but it is possible to climb up to this rock bridge if you have a guide and a reasonable level of fitness.
  • Umm Fruth Rock Bridge: A lower rock bridge which is featured on many tours and can be easily scrambled onto.
  • Red Sand Dunes: There are various places in Wadi Rum where the white and red sands meet, but the most commonly visited is a dune sloping up alongside a jebel - a bit tough to climb up, great fun to run down!
  • Seven Pillars of Wisdom: Although most people can only count five, this is an impressive rock formation near the Visitor's centre. It is named after T E Lawrence's book - not the other way around!
  • Jebel Khaz'ali: This narrow canyon contains numerous Nabataean rock carvings of people and animals.

[edit][add listing] Do

Red Sand Dune
Red Sand Dune

The genuine attraction of Wadi Rum is the desert itself, best seen by four wheel drive or on camel. Some visitors only spend a few hours in the Wadi, but it's definitely worth taking a guided trip of several days duration, staying overnight in Bedouin camps in the desert.

Picking up a guide at the gate is a hit and miss affair and many of the best guides rely mainly on advance bookings. Many of the guides have websites, through which you can arrange your tour. Some camps/guides include:

  • Bedouin Meditation Camp - Zedane al-Zalabieh
  • Jordan Tracks, [1]

Climbing is another popular activity and a number of guides are also trained climbers. Wadi Rum Rock [2] has details.

The Distant Heat Festival is held every summer on the last Thursday of July which features trance and electronica music.

[edit] Eat & Drink

Food being prepared at a Bedouin camp
Food being prepared at a Bedouin camp
  • At the entrance to the park, a small tent-cum-restaurant serves simple Jordanian fare of bread, yogurt and such. There has been one report of food poisoning here, however.
  • Many camps will provide a traditional meal - one speciality is chicken or lamb cooked under the desert sand.
  • You won't be able to avoid the Bedouin tea, which is served in every tent you will visit. It's hot, sweet and usually flavoured with mint and/or sage. It's surprisingly refreshing on a hot day and you may develop a slight addiction to it...

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Bedouin camp site
Bedouin camp site

The closest thing to a hotel in Wadi Rum is the Rest House in Rum village. It offers very basic accommodation - a matress on the roof - as well as selling food and water. There are several camping options, from a more formal camp ground to riding out into the desert with a Bedouin guide and staying in a traditional Bedouin tent. Expect to pay 25-60 JD for accommodation, transportation and food, depending on the type of tour and number of people. Some campgrounds are:

  • Bedouin Directions, (). Specialises in longer stays for hiking, scrambling etc in the wilderness area. Offers camps at the foot of Um Sabbatah in a naturally formed 'cave'. A natrual rock platform with an overhang and an open roof. Various classic Jeep tours also available.  edit
  • Magic of Orient Camp, +962779839860, [3].  edit
  • Nawaf Faqeer's Bedouin Desert Camp, 00962795537109, [4]. Bedouin Desert Camp. Campsites are offered both in big or small tents in Wadi Rum. Food is prepared on the fire, and dinner and breakfast are always included in the price. Mattresses and blankets will be provided and transportation is also included.  edit
  • The Palm Camp.  edit
  • The Sunset Camp, [5]. Their amenities include tents, running water, showers and restroom facilities. Breakfast and dinner are usually provided - check the camps' own websites for further details. While staying at the camps it is possible to take jeep, camel, or horse tours around the desert and you are often welcome to sleep under the stars.  edit
  • Suleman Abu Mosalm and family, +962-795902127, [7].  edit

[edit] Get out

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!