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Kesi Ghat and the Yamuna River. The word "Radha" is repeatedly written on the side in the Devanagari alphabet.

Vrindavan, also spelled Brindavan, is a holy town in Uttar Pradesh.

[edit] Understand

The town stands on the original forest of Vrindavana where the Hindu deity Krishna spent his childhood, on the banks of the Yamuna river. Numerous events are documented to have occurred here: this is where Krishna stole the clothes of the bathing maidens (gopis) who preyed for attaining him, wooed his lover Radha and destroyed an entire succession of demons. Consequently, it is a major pilgrimage destination for Hindus, and features by some counts as many as 5000 temples.

Rather than visiting Vrindavana as any other tourist spot, this place is best enjoyed when visited with the thoughts of Sri Krishna alone and when remembering him at every foot length of land. It will not be too inaccurate to say that all the great Hindu saints have visited Vrindavana in their lifetime atleast once. Even now most localites here always chant the names of Radha and Krishna during their day to day activities. This place is still being visited by devotees from different parts of India who are very spiritual and attracted to Lord Krishna.

Vrindavan is also known as the City of Widows, due a peculiar industry that has sprung up here. By Hindu tradition, widows may not remarry but spend life towards spiritual liberation, and many of those abandon their families or having abandoned by their families on the death of their husband make their way here. In exchange for singing bhajan hymns for 7-8 hours in bhajanashrams, they are given a meal and a pittance of money (around Rs.10), which some of them try to supplement by begging on the streets. If they fall ill, no money is paid, and some of the trusts that operate the ashrams are regularly accused of skimming off vast amounts from the donations. There are an estimated 20,000 widows, some of whom are very old having spent over 30 years there.

[edit] Get in

Vrindavan is about 150 km south of Delhi. The nearest train station is Vrindavan's twin holy town Mathura, 12 km (20 min) away by rickshaw. A one-way ride from Vrindavan's train station will cost you Rs.100 upwards.

[edit] Get around

The core of Vrindavan is much too congested even for an autorickshaw, so the only way to get around is on foot. Signage in English is non-existent, so you'll either need to ask for directions constantly or, an easier choice, hire a guide to show you around. Your rickshaw driver will be more than happy to find you one, but do beware of temple scams (see #Stay safe).

[edit][add listing] See

Govinda Dev Temple

Entry into all temples is free, but have some coins handy for the shoe handlers. Many temples prohibit photography inside, so enquire when in doubt.

• Bihariji, [1]. The best-known temple in Vrindavan, home to a Krishna idol known as Thakur-ji. The idol's eyes are said to be so powerful that it is kept hidden from view behind a curtain, which is opened and closed every few minutes.

• Govinda Dev Mandir. Built by Raja Sawai Man Singh of Jaipur in 1590, this squat, bulky temple reportedly had four stories lopped off during Aurangzeb's reign of terror. These days it's just infested by monkeys.

• Jaigurudeo Temple, [2]. Also named "Naam Yog Sadhna Mandir". It resembles the Tajmahal, built with white marble. It is a unique temple in that you are prohibited from donating if you are a non-vegeterian.

• Krishna Balaram Mandir, better known as the ISKCON Temple, [3]. A major draw for Hare Krishna (ISKCON) pilgrims to India, and uniquely among Vrindavan's temples well equipped to deal with foreign visitors. Free breakfast and lunch are available. Great restaurant. Comfortable guesthouse on the Temple grounds.

• Kesi Ghat, by the Yamuna. According to the legend, this is where Krishna killed the demon Kesi and then bathed to celebrate. Aarti (prayer lamps) are offered to the Yamuna here every evening.

• Seva Kunj. Planted with countless tulsi (holy basil) trees, this is the garden where gopis dance for Krishna at night, and where Krishna and his lover Radha spend the night locked in the Moti Mahal.

• Rangji Mandir, [4]. The single largest temple in Vrindavan, built in 1851 in a South Indian style, complete with intricate seven-story gopuram (gateway) at the entrance. Inside is a 50-ft high wooden chariot, taken out yearly for festivals, and in the inner courtyard is the 50-ft high gold-plated pillar known as Dhwaja Stambha.
• Radhavallabh Mandir, [5].A very wellknown ancient temple of Vrindavan, founded by Shri Hith Harivansh Mahaprabhu, Sri Radhavallabh Lal's idol resemble Sri Radha and Sri Krishna to be embodied in it together- "One soul and two bodies".

• Radharaman Mandir In Seva Kunj, see the Deity of Radharaman that self-manifested from a Govardhana Shila (sacred stone).

[edit][add listing] Do

Offerings to Krishna and Radha beneath a snake during the Brahmotsava Festival, Rangji Mandir

• The Brahmotsava Festival, held for ten days after Holi (February/March), is the largest in Vrindavan and can draw up to 100,000 visitors. On the main day, known as Ratha Ka Mela, a giant wooden chariot is pulled by devotees from the Rangji temple to its gardens and back.
• Parikrama is about three hour / 6km walk around the city performed by hindu pilgrims on the parikrama path that circles the city. Best to start early in the morning at the ISKCON Mandir.

poshak's bhagawan ki sewa vastu

[edit][add listing] Eat

• Swastik Restaurant, Vidyapeeth Crossing (Shubham Hotel). North Indian, South Indian, pseudo-Chinese. Air-conditioned.
• MVT Restaurant, Behind Krishna-Balaram Mandir (ISKCON). Best place to get western food that is cooked by westerners. A lot of fresh organic salads, pasta, great pizza, lasagna and Baskin Robins icecream.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Be sure to try the delicious lassi (yogurt based shakes)as well as jal jeera (literally means "cumin water"), a sweet and sour tamarind beverage with a spicy kick. Both are specialities of the region.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

• MVT Guesthouse. 24 hrs hot and cold running water, AC or heating during cold seasons, 24 hrs electric power (with generator). Kitchens in the rooms and a Western restaurant on the rooftop.

• Hotel The Shubham , Vidyapeeth Crossing, +91-565-2456025, [6]. City hotel with air-conditioning, CTV, Room Service, 24 Hrs Hot and Cold running water. A/C doubles from Rs.1000.

[edit] Stay safe

Like all Hindu holy towns, the chaos and squalor of Vrindavan can get pretty intense.

If you take a guided tour, you can expect to be led to a temple where the priest will treat you to a simple ceremony and then start demanding donations of thousands of rupees to carve your name on a marble plaque that will supposedly go up on the wall. A few tens of rupees for dabs of kumkum on your forehead etc are reasonable, but there is absolutely no reason to pay more: simply walk out if you feel uncomfortable. The easiest way to avoid getting into this situation in the first place is to insist on going to temples of your choice, not the guide's.

Vrindavan is absolutely infested with monkeys, who are adept at stealing cameras, glasses, food and anything you're not keeping a close eye on. Wear contacts or go without if you can.