From Wikitravel

Varanasi [1], once known as Benares or Banaras and Kashi, is a historical city in northern India. The city is sacred to Hindus and also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. In many ways Varanasi epitomizes the very best and worst aspects of India, and it can be a little overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganges at sunrise set against the back drop of the centuries old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world - definitely a must see destination on any trip to northern India.

The city can be scorchingly hot in the summer months, if possible time your visit to fall between October and March, and bring something warm to wear for chilly days and nights.

[edit] Get in

Varanasi is well connected by train and bus, with multiple of each heading in every direction daily.

[edit] By train

Trains are the easiest and most likely way that you'll reach Varanasi, with multiple daily services to cities including Delhi, Agra, Lucknow and Kolkata.

Most trains arrive at Varanasi Junction station (Station Code: BSB), but there are a few other stations in and around the city so be sure to check which station your train arrives at. Many of the faster trains including the Shatabdi/Rajdhani Express leave from Mughal Serai station, about 15 km east of the city (around 45 minutes to an hour away in a rickshaw).

[edit] By bus

There are daily buses to the Nepali border and other points around northern India. Local buses leave from the main bus station near the train station, almost every hour in the morning and one in the evening, to Gorakhpur (5-6 hrs, Rs 120), from where buses leave to the Nepali border at Sonauli (~3 hrs, Rs 56).

There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8hrs), Kanpur (9hrs - Rs. 195) and Allahabad(3hrs - Rs. 88)

[edit] By plane

Varanasi Airport (IATA: VNS) is about 25km from the city center. Indian Airlines, Air Sahara, Jet Airways, Kingfisher and SpiceJet all have daily flights to Delhi and there are daily flights to Mumbai on Air Sahara ,Indian Airlines and SpiceJet.

Allow plenty of time to get to the airport, it can take an hour or more depending on traffic. A taxi should run around Rs 200-250 or about Rs 125 in an auto-rickshaw, but most drivers will want to charge double since they will likely be coming back empty. If it suits your schedule there is a daily bus at 10:00am that leaves from Hotel India and costs Rs 50.

[edit] Get around

Many of the sights are in the tiny narrow winding alleys of the waterfront. Rickshaws are only useful for longer trips across town or to the train stations. A cycle-rickshaw from the Junction train station to Dasaswamedh Ghat (or Godaulia if the road is closed) should cost Rs 20. From Godaulia to Assi Ghat is Rs 10. Taxis exist but traffic makes them impractical. There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station.

By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters.

[edit][add listing] See

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations as such: instead, the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.

• Vishwanath Temple - also known as the Golden Temple, security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance.

• Nepali Hindu Temple - A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture, near Lalita Ghat

• Alamagir Mosque - overlooking Panchganga Ghat, it's a great place for a bird's eye view of the area.

• Man Mandir Observatory

• Tulsi Manas Temple

• Durga Temple

• Banaras Hindu University - a very green and peaceful campus. There is also a Vishwanath Temple bulit by Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya.

• Ram Nagar Fort - the fort of the King of Kashi

[edit] Ghats

Floating away While the use of ghats for cremation is well known, they are also used to give last rites to those who do not need cleansing by fire to purify their soul, including young children and pregnant women. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in cloth, weighted with stones and deposited into the Ganges. However, it is fairly common for the ropes to give way, resulting in putrefying corpses washing up on the east shore across from the city. Steer clear if squemish.

A ghat is a series of steps leading down to the river, used by bathers and pilgrims, and riverside Varanasi consists of a long sequence of these. It's generally possible to walk directly between them, though near Manikarnika Ghat you'll have to navigate your way up and around through the alleyways. The best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.

Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where bodies are cremated (in full view) before their ashes are placed in the Ganges.

Some of the main ghats, from north to south:

• Narad Ghat - the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the myth of contention
• Panchganga Ghat - the meeting of the five rivers
• Manikarnika Ghat - the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs
• Dasaswamedh Ghat - the main ghat and site of the large evening aarti; only reachable by foot at some times of day, about a 5 minute walk south from Godaulia
• Rana Ghat
• Kedar Ghat - brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic
• Harishchandra Ghat - the cremation place were Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.
• Hanuman Ghat
• Shivala Ghat
• Tulsi Ghat - site of the large water purification plant
• Assi Ghat - a popular place to stay with many hotels, restaurants and internet cafes

[edit] Festivals

• Diwali is a great time to be in Varanasi, with special preparations going on in many temples. The once-in-a-year decorations and aarti at the ghats are spectacular.

• Shivaratri is another great time to be in varanasi. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of classic indian music going on night and day for three days.

[edit][add listing] Do

• Boat rides are very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations in progress, and then return to Dasaswamedh and watch the evening aarti from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price down to around Rs 30/person per hour (even for just 1 person in the boat), but expect to be quoted much higher — the current 'tourist' rate for a boat ride is Rs 300! During the trip "market boats" will float up to you selling overpriced trinkets which can be bought much cheaper on land. Any offers of flowers for puja will definitely not be free; Rs 2 per flower bowl and Rs 5 per candle bowl are the going rates, though as a tourist you might be asked for as much as Rs 100 each.

• Get lost in the alleyways - the sounds, sight and smells are just unbelievable!

[edit] Learn

• Varanasi is a good place to learn a classical instrument such as the tabla or sitar - many teachers can be found throughout the city, but quality varies considerably so ask around and check out a few.

• Yoga is also popular, and the same rules apply.

• Benares Hindu University [2] offers a wide range of classes on topics related to classical Indian studies in English.

[edit][add listing] Buy

Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and bargain hard!

• Mehrotra Silk Factory, (near Brahma Ghat, follow the multiple yellow signs) has set, reasonable prices and a good selection. A little out of the way, but worth the trip.

• Wow India, Assi Ghat (the big corner shop, follow the tourists). A large collection of handicrafts from all over the country, a good place to pick up your gifts and souvenirs. Music, silks, ayurvedic cosmetics, herbal teas, incense and plenty more. Prices are moderate and fixed. edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

There are numerous food outlets and a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success. To get really authentic Banarasi Khana you're going to have to get to the main market area or, better, to have a banarasi friend inviting you at home. Benares Dum Aloo is a local specialty, and the city is also known for its desserts. You can't go away from Benares without eating local specialities as aloo chat and pani puri and, in general, the street food. Paan is not really food, but is something Benares is famous for all over India.

[edit] Budget

• Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives.

• Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe). Another good and popular cheapie, with a good range of things on offer, notably a thali for Rs 20, and some Japanese and Korean dishes thrown in for good measure.

• A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north / south indian dishes at very reasonablle rates.

• Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes.

[edit] Mid-range

• Open Hand Cafe, Assi Ghat, (around the corner from Hotel Haifa), +91 542 2369 751, [3]. Only a small selection of food that it does well, which is a refreshing change from most tourist magnets. Quiche and bread roll sandwiches are filling, and cheesecake, chocolate cake or an enormous fruit salad are all fairly insane. Also good filter coffees and rooibos tea, and a shop selling fixed-price merchandise. Highly recommended for a break from the city.

• Flavours Cafe, Lanka-Assi Road, (near to Lanka crossing). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lighly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance make for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.

• Bread of Life Bakery, Shivala Road, (a few hundred metres north of Assi Ghat), +91 542 227 5012. Good baked goods, but also a full restaurant with okay breakfasts including "American" pancakes and canned-OJ (freshly-squeezed no longer). Used to be very popular but the quality is now questionable.

• Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian / Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.

[edit] Middle-Eastern Food

Possibly due to a high influx of tourists from Israel, a number of Middle Eastern restaurants have opened in Varanasi, all of which serve very similar food, cater to a predominantly tourist clientèle, and charge a little over Rs 100 for a thali.

• Haifa Cafe: Assi Ghat, (in Hotel Haifa). Most popular for its Middle-Eastern cuisine such as the thali (delicious!), but has a wide range of Indian and continental dishes and is also popular at breakfast. The Jordanian brothers aren't here anymore. Its now just a regular hotel.

• Hayat's: near Assi (new location), managed by authentic middle-easterners (from Jordan). Try the labanha (dry yoghurt), or the baba ghanoush (eggplant) with pita. The Nanas (mint-lemon drink) are the best in town. The feta is a tad high in salt, but at least they have it. The restaurant has a tent-like lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles.

• Phulwari / Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close.

• Tahsin's Mediterranean: located at Sarnath, in The Golden Buddha hotel, is runed by the same Jordanian brothers of Hayat's. Big garden and outdoor wood-operated oven for pizzas and pastas.

[edit] Splurge

• Varuna and Chowk, Taj Ganges Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds. Tel+91 542 250-300 - Two restaurants respectively offering Indian and Western cuisine.

[edit][add listing] Drink

• Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj, but is illegal in the old city.

• Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major center of Shiva worship. It can be quite intoxicating.

• Tandai is cool milk based drink made with pistachios, almonds and kesar and topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without. Many Tandai stores are located near the main Godolia, and most also serve lassi.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats. This is where most foreigners hang out - and with good reason. In addition to the ghats and river, Varanasi's most famous temples and main market are all located in this area. Another choice is Sarnath, about 8km from Varanasi. It is a little removed from 'the action' but much safer and calmer than Varanasi.

[edit] Budget

• Sita Guest House , Chausatti Ghat, 542 2450061 or 3251088, sita_guest_house@yahoo.com. - The guest house is situated on the banks of the ganges next to the main ghats and with in a very short walking distance to the burning ghats but far enough away to avoid smoke and smell. Rooms are clean and of a good size all with view of the river. Hot water in every room and roof top restaurant. The hotel also has generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi. The hotel provides many services for its guests, including internet, in house laundry, train and air ticket bookings. - www.sitaguesthouse.in

• Shanti Guesthouse. There are several hotels near the ghats that have taken the name "Shanti" after the originals good reputation. The "original" is a clean but very basic building with several floors of windowless rooms (cooler and safer than ones with exterior windows). The rooftop cafe offers money changing, internet access, and a view of the Burning Ghats.

• Sahi Riverview Guest House. This place is very clean, quiet, and recommended. Newly opened, the guest house has the most fascinating Ganges views and the exotic sunrise from its balconies, rooms and terrace. Location is right on Assi Ghat, next to Harmony Book Shop. All rooms have 24 hrs hot water with attached bathrooms.

• Vishnu Rest House, Pandey Ghat, 450 206. A hotel spanned over 200 year old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water.

• Hotel River View, Brahma Ghat (a couple ghats north of Panchganga Ghat). This hotel is good for those looking to be a little removed from the action in a quieter area. Rooms have river views, and decent Indian food is served in the small restaurant. The friendly owner Mahesh makes good company. To get here, walk north from Dasaswamedh Ghat for about 15 minutes, and follow the numerous blue and white painted signs that begin to appear. Rooms Rs 100-250.

• Maruti Guest House[4], Sahodarbir (near Assi Ghat), 231 2261 Friendly family run guest house with clean well lit rooms. There is a roof top garden and restaurant where fresh home made food is served. Power backup for the rooms and hot showers are available as well as broadband Internet access. The owner of the guest house, Dr. V.N. Tripathi, gives Yoga and meditation lessons upon request. Rooms Rs 50-400.

• Ganga Fuji Home [5] is a clean hotel in the middle of old Varanasi in the alleys between Man Mandeer Ghat and Dasaswamedh Ghat (also called Main Ghat). Price range from 350Rs for share bathroom to 990Rs for A/C TV rooms. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night.

[edit] Mid-range

• Hotel Malti, Vidyapeeth, ☎ (542)356844 351395.  edit

• Kautilya Society residence. Located on the banks o the river Ganges at the city centre, it is not an Hotel but it is a NGO for intercultural dialogue, that also offers rooms for students and scholars. The atmosphere of Ram Bhavan remains faithful to the simple comforts of an Indian home with a splash of colour. Walls are painted in the colors of the ancient city: a cooling forest green facing the court; peacock blues in the bedrooms; Annapurna rose in the kitchen. Furniture is colonial Teak or cane. By Indian law it is necessary for all residing guests to become members of the Society; annual membership is 6 Euros. Rooms in high season cost from € 6 to € 10 per day, including half board (€ 1 a day for additional guests sharing the same room). In low season rates are approximately 20% lower. Special prices can be obtained by long term guests. address: D 20/21 Munshi Ghat tel: +91-542-2452179; +91-542-2455139. info@kautilyasociety.com NGO web site: www.kautilyasociety.com

[edit] Splurge

• Hotel Taj Ganges, Nadesar Palace Grounds, +91 542 250 3001, [6], ganges.varanasi@tajhotels.com. A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group, it's the nicest in the city. Rooms from $100 (or even less off-season, inquire about discounts).

[edit] Contact

BSNL, Reliance, and Airtel are the most popular cell phone services in the region. If you bring your GSM cellphone from home, you can get a cheap connection and cash card from Airtel or Hutch from anywhere in India and call within India and abroad.

Internet is widely available, especially in the lanes between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat. Price is usually Rs 20-30/hour. Several branches of Iway BROADBAND (rs.14-20)are sprinkled around town as well.

Calling abroad is cheap from Iway branches.

[edit] Respect

There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists traipsing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river.

[edit] Stay safe

Violent crime is rare, but do be careful in the lanes after dark. Carry a torch; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight let alone in pitch dark, with broken paving stones and cows common.

Women need to dress conservatively, and to be careful. Even taking precautions expect to have the odd local young man try to quickly grope you, and run away. Respond agressively and loudly to try to discourage this behavior as much as possible.

Rickshaw/taxi scams are a norm in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of 'the Varanasi experience'. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up to a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores from which they receive commission.

[edit] Get out

• Sarnath - One of the most sacred places for Buddhists, known as the place where Lord Buddha gave his first speech after his enlightenment.

• Ramnagar Fort - historical royal residence and museum across the Ganges

• Chunar Fort - ruins of battlements and ancient settlement 15 miles from Varanasi.

• Agra - the next point on the tourist "Golden Triangle". Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day.

• Nepal - buses travel to the Nepali border where you can transfer to Kathmandu and Chitwan buses. Most buses go via Lucknow and can take 8-12 hours, or there are daily flights.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!