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Ubud

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Ubud is a town in central Bali, Indonesia. Ubud is a favourite traveler's destination in Bali and is famous as a centre of Balinese culture, arts and crafts.

Ubud Water Palace.
Ubud Water Palace.

[edit] Understand

Far removed from the drunken bikini scene in Kuta, Ubud can be described as a magical, wonderful, cultural center. Above all, it is famous as an arts and crafts hub. Much of the town and nearby villages seems to consist of artists' workshops and galleries, mostly retailing cheap reproductions for tourists. There are some remarkable architectural sights, artistic gems to be found and a general feeling of well being to be enjoyed thanks to the spirit, surroundings and climate.

While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact 14 villages, each run by its own banjar. Ubud has grown rapidly and some central parts are coping less well with the influx of tourists than others. That said, most development is sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the local style. Growth is continuing but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers and regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed.

Due to its location 600 metres above sea level, Ubud enjoys somewhat cooler temperatures than the coast (sometimes necessary to bring a pullover for the evening), although the midday sun can still be scorching, and the humidity usually relentless.

[edit] Orientation

Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. The town sprawls for several kilometres in all directions, with all of the small villages within a 5km radius of the central market being loosely referred to as "Ubud." If you choose a reasonably central place to stay, it is easy enough to get around on foot.

Central Ubud has three main streets: Jl Raya Ubud (the main road) Ubud), Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Hanoman. At the intersection of Jl Raya and Jl Monkey Forest is the Ubud Market, the Ubud Palace and the main bemo stop.

Rice Terraces in Ubud.
Rice Terraces in Ubud.

Jl Monkey Forest which runs south through town to the Monkey Forest is the most built up area and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, cafes, restaurants and cafes as well a number of local services (schools, sports field, pharmacies, travel agents, etc). Jl Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl Monkey Forest, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking.

To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuhan and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the whole of Bali with views over the valleys sculpted by the the Ayung and Wos rivers.

Directly to the south, past the Monkey Forest and still within a half hour walk of the central market, is Padang Tegal which then runs into the southern villages of Nyuh Kuning and Pengosekan, about 3 km from central Ubud. Directly to the east is the village of Peliatan and then Teges and Bedulu, home of Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave).

[edit] Tourism Information Office

Bina Wisata, Jl Raya Ubud (just west of Ubud Market). Not especially helpful but they always have a few leaflets and local businesses advertise current events there.

[edit] Get in

Map of the Ubud area
Map of the Ubud area

[edit] By bemo

There are regular public bemos from Denpasar's Batubulan terminal to Ubud.

[edit] By taxi

If you want to take a taxi from southern Bali, it is best to charter the vehicle for a return trip, otherwise, you'll be hit with a 30% fee for going out-of-town. Metered fares, one-way not including surcharge, are around Rp 100,000 from Denpasar and Rp 200,000 from Kuta.

[edit] By bus

Perama [1] offers regular direct transfers to Ubud from Ngurah Rai airport, Sanur, Lovina, Kuta, Bedugul, Candidasa and Padang Bai. These are convenient and inexpensive (eg four times per day from Ngurah Rai Airport, Rp 50,000). Rather less conveniently, the Perama terminal is not located in the centre of Ubud but about 2 km south in Padang Tegal (on Jl Hanoman just south of the intersection of Jl Monkey Forest).

[edit] Get around

Central Ubud can be covered on foot but you will need some form of transport to explore the extended vicinity.

It also should be noted that sidewalks throughout Bali are narrow which can make for uncomfortable single-file walking as traffic screams past. Ubud is generally quieter and the streets calmer than the more urbanised parts of Bali. So whilst traffic is slower than in downtown Kuta for example, the sidewalks are often blocked by motorbikes or a collapsed section necessitates a step off the sidewalk potentially placing you in the path of traffic. That traffic could be a tricycle or a truck, so keep your wits about you.

[edit] By bemo

Bemos ply the main routes in and around Ubud and the main stop and gathering pont is Ubud market at the junction of Jl Monkey forest and Jl Raya Ubud.

[edit] By taxi

No metered taxis operate in Ubud and any you see will be dropping off passengers from further afield.

[edit] By local car

Most local transport comes in the form of SUVs or minivans that can be hired with a driver for specific trips. Look for the circular yellow "E" logo on the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. You can (and should) haggle a bit over the price and be able to pay less than for the equivalent journey in a metered taxi. A short trip is about Rp 20,000 to 30,000 and drivers will be glad to wait for you for a return fare. Also, any guy with a motorbike is implicitly in the transport business and bike rides are about half the price of a passenger vehicle.

[edit] By hotel car

Ubud encompasses a number of neighbouring villages and many hotels are happy to offer a complimentary drop-off and pickup service to central Ubud. Expect to pay taxi prices if you are intending to go further.

[edit] By motorbike

As elsewhwere in Bali, motorbike rental is widely available and you will not be short of options. Expect to pay between Rp 50,000 and 80,000 per day.

[edit] By bicycle

You can rent bicycles for about Rp 20,000 a day. There is a large selection available at the corner of the football field on Jl Monkey Forest.

[edit][add listing] See

  • Bali Bird Park, Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir, Singapadu, +62 361 299352 (), [2]. 9.30AM to 5.30PM daily. A splendid two hectare aviary park with more than 250 species of birds in well thought out, attractive enclosures. The park has an enlightened, modern attitude to exhibiting animals and this is obvious from the very open, walk-in aviaries and the number of free range birds throughout the park. Also has a notably good cafe. One of Bali's best formal attractions. Adults US$ 21, children US$ 10.  edit
Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), Bedulu nr Gianyar
Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), Bedulu nr Gianyar
  • Botanic Garden, Kutuh Kaja (on the road to Kutuh Kaja village which runs north from Jl Raya Ubud close to BCA Bank), [3]. The recently opened Botanic Garden is a wonderful way to spend a few hours walking around and exploring the valley that it fills. It is best to go in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat.  edit
  • Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), Bedulu village nr Gianyar. The centerpiece here is a cave dating back to the 11th century, the entrance to which is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Large carved guards stand around pools near the entrance. Other part of the Goa Gajah complex werre not excavated until the 1950s. Nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields and some Buddhist stupa fragments.  edit
Gunung Kawi, Tampaksiring
Gunung Kawi, Tampaksiring
  • Gunung Kawi (Poet Mountain), Tampaksiring (18 km northeast from Ubud). Dating from the 11th century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields is stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to have been built for the king's wives, while the larger complex is thought to have been the residence of the King himself and perhaps his concubines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About one km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi which has cold drinks (Rp 10,000 & up) and fresh breezes (free). Entrance fee is Rp. 6000, sarong is rented for free.  edit
  • Monkey Forest, Jl Monkey Forest, Ubud, +62 361 971304 (), [4]. A sacred forest full of ravenous monkeys, so don't bring any food or risk bites and rabies injections. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a temple of the dead. A visit to the very informative website beforehand is highly recommended.  edit
  • Pura Kehen (Kehen Temple), Jl Sriwijaya, Bangli (just north of Bangli town centre which itself is about 30 minutes north east from Ubud). 8AM to 5PM daily. One of the most attractive temples in the whole of Bali and as it is slightly off the beaten path, one which recieves relatively few visitors. The temple was founded in 1206 and has an specially impressive 11-tiered Meru in the inner courtyard. When you vist here take a little extra time to look around Bangli. It is a quiet and attractive market town. Rp 6,000.  edit
  • Puri Saren Agung (Royal Palace, Water Palace), (Across Jl. Raya Ubud from Ubud Market). This was the palace of the kings of Ubud until the 1940s and some royal descendents live there to this day. Parts of the complex are off limits to the public, but entry to the rest is free and this is Ubud's best setting for dance performances (see Do).  edit
Hot springs at Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring
Hot springs at Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring
  • Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring (20 km northeast from Ubud). One of the holiest temples in Bali built around hot springs that still bubble in the central courtyard. The Balinese come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are all modern reconstructions. Rp 6,000.  edit
  • The White Herons of Petulu, Petulu. Every evening between 15,000 and 20,000 cattle egrets (known colloquially as white herons and in Balinese, kokokan) roost in the village of Petulu just 10 minutes north of Ubud. It is quite a spectacle as these large, elegant white and rusty orange birds arrive in countless groups and tussle for the prime roosting spots. Each morning at dawn they leave en-masse to find feeding spots around the island. Some also breed in the area and nests can be seen in the roadside trees. The cattle egrets are joined by smaller numbers of little egrets and Javan pond herons. According to local legend, the egrets first appeared here in such large numbers after one of the worst massacres of suspected communists during the troubles of 1965. This led local villagers to believe that these birds are the souls of the slaughtered and ceremonies to that effect are still held today. The village of Petulu is reached by heading east from Ubud own centre of Jalan Raya until you meet the obvious junction with Jalan Raya Andong. Turn left and go up the hill for about 2 kilometres until you see the left turning to Petulu village. Go into the village and you will see signs and warungs set up in the best places to view the spectacle. Get there by 5.30PM.  edit
  • Yeh Pulu, Banjar Batulumbang, Bedulu nr Gianyar (turn off the Ubud to Gianyar main road about 400 metres east of the entrance to the Goa Gajah complex. Drive through Banjar Batulumbang until the road comes to an end. For here walk down the track). This complex of rock carvings is close to Goa Gajah but far less well known. The carvings date from the 14th or 15th century and are in a very attractive rice field setting. You can reach Yeh Pulu on foot through the rice fields from Goa Gajah but you will definitely need a guide for the 45 minute walk as there is no path to speak of. As well as the carvings there is a holy well here and the attendant priest will be happy to bless you with the well water. Temple dress code applies here. This is a much under-rated and under-visited site and is highly recommended. Rp 6,000.  edit

[edit] Museums and Galleries

  • Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA), Jl Pengosekan, +62 361 975742 (), [5]. 9AM to 5PM. Showcases works by well known Balinese artists as well as international artists who made Bali their home such as Walter Spies, Adrian Jean Le Mayeur, Rudolph Bonnet and Arie Smit. The only painting in Bali by renowned Javanese artist Radan Saleh is exhibited here. Also run workshops in 13 different areas of Balinese art and culture. Rp 25,000.  edit
  • Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), Jln Raya, Ubud (on the main road just west of the market), (), [6]. 8AM to 4PM daily. The first private museum in Bali which opened in 1954. Three buildings showcasing traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are a little musty and English labeling is a little spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing. Exhibits by noted artists I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and Rudolph Bonnet, amongst others. Rp 20,000.  edit
  • Neka Art Museum, Jl Raya Campuhan, Kedewatan, +62 361 975074 (), [8]. Monday to Saturday 9AM to 5PM, Sunday Noon to 5PM. This museum houses perhaps the most important art collection in the whole of Bali. No less than six pavilions house the various collections which include dedicated rooms for artists Arie Smit and I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. Rp 40,000.  edit
  • Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women, Jl Sriwedari 2B, +62 361 975485, [9]. The Seniwati Gallery features art by women; "Seni" is Indonesian for "art" and "Wati" means "women".  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

As a centre of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night.

There are also plenty of spas for resynchronizing your healing chakras.

[edit] Cultural performances

Puram Dalem dance performance
Puram Dalem dance performance
  • Barong Dance, Batubulan (about 15 minutes south of Ubud of the main road to Sanur). A Barong dance performance takes place here every day at 9:30AM and lasts about an hour. It is very much a performance for tourists and story is of the never-ending battle between good and evil. There is actually not much dancing and a lot of talking in this performance. While buying a ticket, you will get a description (aka libretto) of what will be performed. Rp 50,000.  edit
  • Pura Dalem, Jl Raya Ubud. One of the best kecak performances in Ubud every Friday and Monday evening. Staged in beautiful surroundings outside under the banyan trees and followed by a fire dance. Rp 50,000.  edit
  • Puri Saren & Puri Saraswati (just east of Jl Monkey Forest), Jl Raya Ubud. Smack dab in the centre of town, dance performances are staged here almost nightly. Rp 75,000 +.  edit
Legong dance performance
Legong dance performance

[edit] Spas

  • Bali Healing, Jl Hanoman 43, Padang Tegal, +62 361'' 7911104. This six-bed massage shop is incredible. Even for the experienced massage consumer, this is an experience. A one-hour massage is Rp 60,000. For an extra treat try the the Magic Warm Stone Massage for Rp 100,000 or in combination with stone and lomi lomiSeveral other deep tissue and reflexology treatments are available from Ni Made Suweti and her skilled team.  edit
  • Bodyworks Healing Centre, Jl Hanoman 25, 62 361 975720, [10]. Ubud Bodyworks Healing Centre was founded by Ketut Arsana 25 years ago and was the very such establishment in Ubud. Still the home of Ketut Arsana, this family compound was already a place where many Balinese people would come for healing before the tourists arrived.  edit
  • Pertenin Body Care, Jl Jatayu, +62 361 972834, [11]. Facial treatments and massage in a relaxing modern environment, allows the custmer to select oils and herbs for the treatment themselves. Pretty competent staff. Rp 85,000/hour, free pick-up.  edit
  • SANg Spa, Jl Jembawan 29B (at the bend on the south part of Jl. Jembawan, walk down a small sidestreet.), +62 361 8631816, [12]. 9AM to 9PM. A small full-service day spa owned and run by a young couple named Ngurah and Asti. Their location is simple and secluded but very clean and nicely decorated. Very professional staff and affordable also.  edit
  • Ubud Sari Health Resort, Jl Kajeng 35, +62 361 974393, [13]. A resort with emphasis on Balinese-style healing therapy, offers an alternative health care, spa, beauty salon, health massage, vegetarian restaurant, yoga, wedding package.  edit
  • Verona Spa, Jl Monkey Forest (at the end of the alley by Yulia Hotel), +62 361 970975, [14]. Verona offers individual or couples rooms that open onto a rice terrace yet remain private because of strategically placed plants and greenery. Go for the 4-hour package called the Verona Spa Experience, complete with a massage, body scrub, flower bath, facial, manicure, pedicure and the most divine hair creme bath (not to be missed if you like having your head massaged) Rp 445,000.  edit

[edit] Whitewater Rafting

There is good rafting available on the Ayung River at Sayan, just west of Ubud. Almost as good as the rafting itself is the wonderful experience of being right down inside the Ayung gorge. This is the domain of high-end resorts like the Four Seasons and Amandari and it is a very scenic area indeed. The rapids are Class II and Class III and best during the rainy season as the river can run a bit dry from June to September. There are two well established operators, both with offices on the main road in Sayan, close to Amandari.

[edit] Yoga and Meditation

  • Taman Hati Yoga and Meditation Center, Banjar Nyuh Kuning, +62 361 974739 ().  edit
  • The Yoga Barn, Padangtegal, [17]. Lovely yoga centre with a range of classes, and excellent set of teachers mostly in the ashtanga/vinnyasa school... upper studio has great views of surrounding terraces  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

Inside Ubud Market
Inside Ubud Market

Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewelry shops. Head for boutiques for higher quality (and higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.

[edit] Ubud Market

Located at the corner of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud. A two-story warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs and anything else a tourist could possibly want as souvenirs. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in and buy. Most of the merchants downstairs will lose interest if you try to get a reasonable price. It is better to try the shops upstairs where you will find the same products often for sell at lower prices. You will still need to use your bargaining skills of course. Try to avoid busy lunchtimes when the tour buses arrive.

If hiring a car for a day, it is worth to make a stop in the art markets of Sukawati and/or Tegallalang. Here you will find the wholesalers from whom the market merchants buy their products. Prices are usually lower and you do not need to bargain so much.

[edit] Craft villages between Sanur and Ubud

The road to Ubud from the south passes a series of small towns and villages which specialize in the production of particular arts and crafts. The towns are Batubulan/Singakerta for stone carvings, Celuk for silver jewelry, Batuan for paintings and Mas for wood carvings. The whole area is sometimes referred to as the "craft villages" of Bali, though the area is a bit more built-up and congested than one might infer from the term "village." It is the best area to see and buy a wide variety of the best Balinese craft work in a short period of time. There are many large showrooms where arts and crafts in the Balinese style are offered for sale. Nearly all organized day-tours of central Bali stop at one or more of these showrooms (and the tour operators usually have a financial tie-up with the places where they stop, collecting a commission on purchases.) Even individual taxi drivers have their preferred stops.

[edit] Other Shops & Markets

  • Ganesha Bookstore, Jl Raya, (), [18]. The best second hand bookstore in Bali bar none. Also has great range of new books about Bali and Indonesia. Been around since 1986 and now has a second branch in Seminyak.  edit
  • Murni's Warung Shop, Campuhan (At Murni's Restaurant right by the Campuhan bridge), +62 361 972146, [19]. 8AM-10PM. Murni collects things and exhibits abroad. When she looks around her home and finds too many things, she puts them in her shop. Whether you're looking for antiques, collectibles or a special Balinese gift, there is a good chance you'll find it in Murni's collection.  edit
  • Sukawati Art Market, Sukawati town (about 20 minutes south of Ubud on the main road to Sanur). This huge market is like a one-stop centee for all the craft villages between Sanur and Ubud, except maybe for the huge stone carvings. Many souvenir shop owners from around Bali purchase their items here and prices are considerably lower than in the tourist centers like Kuta, Sanur and Ubud town. For a taste of every-day, go to the food and produce market opposite the art market.  edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

  • Dewa Warung, Jl Gootama. Dewa's is one of the best and cheapest places to eat in town; serves all the usual Balinese dishes. The most expensive item on the menu is the Cashew Ginger Chicken at Rp 15,000. Be sure to say hello to Ibu Dewa.  edit
  • Warung Igelanc (Iggy's), Jl Raya Ubud, +62 81 58943251. Cheap and cheerful Indonesian favorites like nasi campur, fried rice and noodles, plus (this being Ubud) a range of herbal drinks, such as Ginger Jive.  edit
  • Warung Lada, Jl Hanoman. Choose from the various Indonesian side dishes (nasi campur-style) that are displayed behind the counter. You can pick as many dishes as you like as you pay for each serving. A full plate is around Rp 25,000 including a fresh fruit juice. Be on time for lunch because it is usually packed.  edit
  • Sari Bamboo, Penestanan. A tourist class warung, with food freshly cooked to order, set amid tropical gardens on the main road to Penestanan village. Mainly Indonesian food delicately flavoured to suit western (and children's) pallettes. The warung and bungalows are easily distinguishable by the display of modern art works by the resident artist. No hard sell though, just delicious food in beautiful surroundings at good prices. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner all day and evening, to suit all appetites. Rp 15,000-25,000.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Batan Waru, Jl Dewi Sita. Amazing Balinese and Indonesian food in a great space with colonial accents. Indoor and outdoor seating. Great coffee and desserts also available.  edit
  • Babyface Resturant, Jl Monkey Forest. Simple two-story building with a wide choice of food (starting at Rp 30,000 for mains). This restaurant also has free wifi and lovely staff. The downstairs has more of a restaurant feel but upstairs is more of a lounge, where you can relax and use internet on your laptop. Wifi is free, but if you need to use electricity, the first 20 mins free then Rp 200 rp a min after that.  edit
  • Cafe des Artistes, (Jl Bisma), +62 361 972706. Every day from 11AM till Midnight.. his Belgian-owned eatery serves delicious Indonesian dishes as well as a vast array of International classics. Famous for their grilled Tenderloin steaks, the place is always crowded with expats, locals and tourists alike. Extensive winelist, cocktails, belgian beers and homemade desserts. Free Wi-Fi from 11AM till 6PM. To make sure you get a table for dinner, call ahead  edit
  • Casa Luna, Jl Raya Ubud, +62 361 973282, [20]. Western and local dishes, sometimes falling somewhere in between.  edit
  • Dragonfly, Jl Dewi Sita (off Jl Monkey Forest at football field), +62 361 972973, [21]. Opened in 2006, this conveniently located restaurant offers fusionesque "west-east" eats, traditional Indonesian fare and even a few Mexican dishes. It also has free WiFi.  edit
  • Mojo's Flying Burritos, (on the main road near Bank BCA). Mexican restaurant serving burritos, nachos, tacos all completely handmade including handrolled tortillas and corn chips. At night, a good joint to hang out with expats drinking fresh squeezed margaritas and sangria by the pitcher. Rp 20,000-35,000  edit
  • Ibu Oka Warung Babi Guling, Jl Suweta (located behind Ubud's banjar, just north of the Jl Raya Ubud-Jl Suweta-Monkey Forest Road crossroads in the middle of Ubud town.). Eating at Ibu Oka is the ultimate Bali culinary experience. The babi guling (spit-roasted pig) is almost world-famous and for regular pork lovers. This humble eating place is virtually a place of pilgrimage. Ibu Oka's deliciously flavoured spicy roast pork (as well as many other parts of the pig) is served on top of white rice. Order the special (Rp 25,000) and you get a bit of everything. There are normal tables and chairs but you can also sit on the floor at low tables inside the bale (pavillion). Ibu Oka also has a branch in Mas (Tel: +62 361 976345) on the main Teges-Sukawati road, which makes it on the way between Ubud and the airport. Unlike the one in Ubud town, this outlet is a two-story restaurant which is spotless, airy and comfortable. And the food comes at no extra cost. From Rp 25,000.  edit
  • Naughty Nuri's Warung and Grill, Jl Raya Sangiggan (opposite the Neka Art Museum half way up the hill heading north out of Ubud), +62 361 977547. Laidback roadside watering hole that is a favorite of local expats. Microbrews, great martinis and amazing slabs of BBQ ribs. Main courses Rp 15,000 - Rp 60,000.  edit
  • Nomad, Jl Raya Ubud 35, +62 361 977169, [22]. A long-steanding institution that serves up a good selection of Balinese, Indonesian and western dishes, but deservedly popular is their "tapas" selection, consisting of bite-sized portions of local flavors. 12 tapas with rice costs Rp. 60,000 and feeds two. Also, they serve wide-range of cocktails and spirits.  edit
  • Tutmak, Jl Dewi Sita (next to the football field), +62 361 975754. A favorite with the expat crowd, Tutmak offers an international menu but is especially famous for its superb coffee made from local arabica roasted by the owners daily.  edit
  • Warung Aja, Jl Monkey Forest (about halfway between the Jl Monkey Forest Road-Jl Raya Ubud intersection and the Monkey Forest. The warung is set back away from the road, on the right side if heading south towards Monkey Forest.), +62 361 973398. 9AM to late. Cosy and friendly, Warung Aja is run by a couple from Java and is a good place to sample Indonesian food from Java, such as nasi rawon, nasi kuning and pecel. There are also the usual Balinese food items on the menu like sate lilit and duck. Meals from Rp 30,000.  edit

  • Riverview Warung, Jl Raya Ubud. A range of dishes from around Asia, at moderate prices. In garden setting set back from the main shopping street, over a tiny bridge and overlooking the river - really picturesque and away from the bustle of the shopping street.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Bebek Bengil, Jl Hanoman. Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck) is an interesting restaurant with paddy field views and nice gardens. Famous for their crispy fried duck and some European-based menu items. They have interesting selections of cakes as well. Expect to spend Rp 100,000 per head. The fried duck dish is about Rp 56,000, but for this, you get 1/2 a duck with the trimmings, either sauteed potatoes and salad or steamed rice and Indonesian vegetables.  edit
  • Mozaic, Jl Raya Sanggingan, +62 361 975768, [23]. The brainchild of chef Chris Salans, this is one of the leading restaurants in the whole of Bali and one which will please even the most jaded of foodies. Multi-award winning, including the coveted Les Grandes Tables du Monde award (the only restaurant in Bali ever to achieve that). Western prices, but worth it as a special treat. Try the degustation menu.  edit
  • Terazo, Jl Suweta (just north of the junction with Jl Raya Ubud), [24]. High quality fusion cuisine in a restaurant environment with a Mediterranean colonial feel. Notably excellent desserts. Owned and run by the same people as Batan Waru.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Ubud has quite a few hip places for a quiet drink but the strictly enforced regulation that all live performances and loud music must end by 10:30PM puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife.

  • Ary's Warung, Jl Raya Ubud 35 (opposite Puri Saraswati), +62 361 975959, [25]. Don't be fooled by the name, this is a stylish watering hole with a large bar downstairs, complete with sofas and cow-leather bar stools, and a rather less busy restaurant upstairs. Drinks are expensive but generously sized.  edit
  • Jazz Cafe, Jl Sukma No 2, Tebesaya, [26]. Jazz bar with live bands nightly, sometimes not jazz but local cover bands. A limited food menu and a good selection of drinks (Rp 50,000 and up). Rp 85,000+ for a cocktail. Cover charge Rp 20,000-25,000.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under Rp 250,000
Mid-range Rp 250,000-1,000,000
Splurge Over Rp 1,000,000

Ubud has a vast selection of lodging for all budgets. Many visitors prefer to stay out in the countryside instead of in the town center, ideally with views of the famous rice terraces, but this can make it difficult to get around.

[edit] Budget

Ubud has many homestays which are the cheapest form of lodging and a good way to meet the locals.

  • Dewa Bungalows, Jln Hanuman 48, Padangtegal. Lovely family compound close to the center of town, currently has 8 rooms but expanding to double that soon. Family-run and gracious it has nice little slate pool perfect for noon time dips. Prices range from Rp.200,000-250,000.  edit
  • Dewi Antara Homestay, Jl Sugriwa, Padang Tegal, 0361 976072 (). A humble Balinese family homestay. Quiet and clean bungalows in a garden setting. The father participates in cultural activities (he's a dancer), so it's fun to watch him in traditional dress. Mum prepares the breakfast of toast, fruit salad and coffee. From Rp 80,000.  edit
  • Family Guest House, Banjar Tebesaya 39, +62 361' 974054 (). The superfriendly, devout Hindu family makes you feel right at home. Rooms are placed in a lovely compound and includes a good breakfast.  edit
  • Jati Home Stay, Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal, +62 361' 977701, [27]. Good rooms designed with natural, traditional materials of bamboo, marble and thatched roofs. You will feel the atmosphere of art and culture as all members of Jati's family are traditional Balinese artists. Learn traditional Balinese painting and watch a group of children practice Balinese dancing.  edit
  • Ketut and Geks House, Bona Kelod, Gianyar (13 km southeast of Ubud), +62 361 945833, [28]. Rooms with private bathroom with cold and hot shower, overloking rice fields From Rp 60,000 inc breakfast.  edit
  • Mawar Homestay (Jl Raya Ubud), (), [29]. Located in the heart of Ubud, only 15 minutes walk from Monkey Forest and a 5 minute walk from Ubud Market. Just 10 rooms. Room facilities include: bathroom with hot and cold water and ceiling fans.Breakfast included.  edit
  • Melati Cottages, Jl Penestanan, +62 361 974650 (). Quack like a classic Ubud rice field duck as you stroll out to these traditional style rooms set around a cafe by a pool. You can walk in from north or south. After dark, listen to nature's night music wafting in from the fields.  edit
  • Narasoma Homestay, Gang Beji off Jl Monkey Forest, +62 361 973404, [30]. Down a little lane off busy Jl Monkey Forest, Narasoma is a family home and accommodation surrounded by coconut palms. Experience a Balinese compound setting with traditional carved buildings. From the top floor can see the mountains to the west of Bali and on a clear day see Mount Agung to the east. Rooms are clean and airy and breakfast is included. Rp 140,000-170,000.  edit
  • Rumah Roda Homestay and Restaurant, (Jl Kajeng 24), +62 361 975487, [31]. Lovely family compound with rooms. The restaurant is also a treat, catch the Sunday evening buffet. The book A Little Bit One O'Clock is about this place and family.  edit
  • Shana Homestay, Jl Gautama No7, Padang Tegal (very close to the traditional & art market and Nomad restaurant), +62 361 97481. Wake up in a serene garden-like bungalow with breakfast ready and greetings from all the family members. Total of 3 bungalows each with 2 beds.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Anom Cottages, Jl Raya Sanggingan (about 15 minutes walk south of the Monkey Forest Road-Jl Raya Ubud crossroads), +62 361 8528521 (), [32]. Only 3 minutes away from the main shopping area and main cultural attractions. Recently re-furbished. From Rp 450,000.  edit
  • Bali T house village, Lodtunduh Tel, +62 812 3932000, [33]. One, two and three bedroom private villas in a traditional rice farming and carving village only 5 minutes from central Ubud. Daily maid and breakfast service included. Beautiful shared pool with rice-field views. Unlike many other Balinese complexes, the unique Bali T Houses offers visitors the chance to stay in an environmentally friendly and ecologically sustainable compound, which is also part of a Balinese village. Villas Rp.400,000-600,000, including breakfast.  edit
  • Oka Kartini, Jl. Raya Ubud 35 (just across the bridge in Peliatan, east of Ubud town centre), 62 361 975759, [34]. Quirky old Balinese house complex on the edge of town, the rooms here are a bit long in tooth but decorated with more carvings and gold paint than the average temple. Friendly staff watched over by the remarkable lady Oka Kartini herself, large art gallery, small but pleasant garden pool, shadow puppet shows three days a week(separate charge). Fan/AC rooms Rp 340,000-511,000, including breakfast..  edit
  • Taman Indrakila, Jl Raya Sanggingan, +62 361 975017, [35]. A boutique hotel situated high above the Campuhan River valley in Sangginan. Rooms at Taman Indrakila are simply decorated and all have their own private terrace.  edit
  • Puri Asri Villa & Spa, Jl Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, +62 361 972550, [36]. Located in a very quiet spot. Offer a couple of scheduled shuttle rides to Jl Monkey Forest and back each day. Also within walking distance of town if you cut through the Monkey Forest. Villas offer spacious rooms, A/C, bath and shower (including outdoor showers), patio and breakfast delivered to your room each morning if you so choose. Great value for money, but take cash as their credit card facilities don't always work. Rp 500,000 including breakfast.  edit
  • Puri Padi, Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal (about 5 minutes walk south of the Monkey Forest), +62 361 8528521 (), [37]. A Balinese style hotel in green gardens surrounded by rice fields. From Rp 450,000.  edit
  • Sri Bungalows, Jl Monkey Forest, +62 361 8528521, [38]. Centrally located with 16 bright bungalow-style rooms tucked into lush gardens. Only about 50 metres from the busy road but very quiet except for the singing of birds. The rooms are simple, but nice. They have bamboo furniture, western toilets and hot water. There's a large pool in the back, and rice paddies beyond the pool. An internet cafe is also on the premises.  edit
  • Sri Ratih Cottages, Jl Penestanan, Campuhan, +62 361 8528521 (), [39]. 30 rooms set in lush surroundings just west of the town centre. Large peaceful garden, good-sized pool, free WiFi for all guests and 24 hour room service. tranquility. Travelers on a tight budget and long staying guests will find good value here. From US$ 30.  edit
  • Taman Rahasia (Secret Garden), Penestanan, +62 361 979395 (), [40]. Just seven rooms in this boutique hotel in a very quiet part of Penestanan. Rural rice-field setting. Jacuzzi, spa, restaurant and good-sized pool. Free shuttle bus service into Ubud town centre. From US$ 100.  edit
  • Ubud Terrace, Jl Monkey Forest (about 10 minutes walk south of the Monkey Forest Road-Jl Raya Ubud crossroads), +62 361 975690. Recently refurbished. Breakfast included and has nice swimming pool. Very friendly staff and you can book all sorts of tours and shuttle buses from reception. From Rp 250,000.  edit

[edit] Splurge

[edit] Resorts

  • Amandari, Jl Raya Kedewatan, Sayan, +361 975333 (), [41]. This was the first Aman hotel in Bali built 20 years ago and it is getting a little bit tired. Still a most impressive property though as you would expect from this group. Amazing views, tennis court, spa, restaurant and just about everything you could imagine in a luxury resort. As with all Aman Resorts though, no televisions. From US$ 750.  edit
  • Amori Villa, Bj. Dukuh, Pejeng Kawan, +62 81 23896114, [42]. A boutique luxury spa resort situated in the Petanu River valley. Built and opened in June 2009 with the cooperation of the local village. Amori offers just 5 private suites with indoor/outdoor bathrooms, satellite TV, king beds, free broadband internet access plus shared facilities of the infinity pool, lounge/dining, etc. from US$ 210. (8.516907,115.280437) edit
  • Como Shambhala Estate (formerly Begawan Giri), [43]. Formerly the Begawan Giri Estate, this is one of Bali's most expensive places to stay and more a collection of super homes than a hotel. Twenty minutes north of Ubud, close to Payangan. US$ 300 to 4,000.  edit
  • Four Seasons Resort at Sayan, Jl Raya Kedewatan, Sayan, +62 361 701010, [44]. One of Bali's truly great hotels. Located in an impossibly beautiful spot over-looking the Sayan gorge. Accommodation ranges from suites in the main building to individual villas down by the river. Superb restaurant and in-house spa facilities. Free shuttle bus to Ubud town centre. From US$ 460.  edit
  • Komaneka at Bisma, Jl Bisma, [45]. The newest luxury property from the Komaneka group who also operate two other very nice resorts in the Ubud area. Well located within easy walking distance of town. Suites and private villas offered. This new property has created something of a stir and is competing very successfully with the long-established and more expensive resort options in Ubud. From US$ 275.  edit
  • Maya Ubud, Jl Gunung Sari, Peliatan (about 10 minutes east of Ubud town centre), +62 361 977888, [46]. Ten hectares of land with fine villas, excellent spa and good restaurant. Architecturally, a most impressive resort. Free shuttle to centre of Ubud and two free from pools.  edit
  • Pita Maha Resort and Spa, Jl Raya Sangginan, +62 361 974330, [47]. A spectacular hill-side resort with 24 villas. Very good restaurant, high quality spa and lovely pool with amazing views. From US$ 550.  edit
  • Santi Mandala Villa and Spa, Banjar Bucuan, Batuan. Located on the southern outskirts of Ubud, the resort has a spa centre, poolside sunken bar and large private villas From US$ 150.  edit
  • The Viceroy Bali, Jl Lanyahan, Banjar Nagi, Laplapan, +62 361 971 777 (), [48]. An all-villa boutique hotel with four different grades of villa, located in the Lembah valley between Ubud and Tampaksiring. A dramatic, pristine valley setting and great views from all the villas. You really do feel very close to nature here. In-house spa, good restaurant and full range of other services including shuttle buses into Ubud. Do not be put off by their website which looks like a very badly done beginner’s blog (!!) – this is an impressive hotel. A member of Small Leading Hotels of the World. From US$ 450..  edit
  • Wakanamya Resort and Spa, Penestanan, Ubud, +62 361 975719 (), [49]. Resort in the "painters' village" of Penestanan, built in traditional Balinese style From US$ 150.  edit
  • Waka Di Ume, Jl Suweta, + 62 361 973178 (), [50]. Lovely hotel in a very rural rice field setting just 10 minutes north of Ubud town centre. It has been around a long time but the whole property has been well maintained. Good spa services and restaurant, regular free shuttle buses into Ubud. From US$ 225.  edit
  • Villa Sabandari, Jl Pura Gunung Sari 4, Peliatan, +62 361 976586 (), [51]. A six room boutique hotel in the rice fields. Walking distance from the centre of Ubud. US$$200-250.  edit

[edit] Private villas

The following are private, individual villas which only take a single group of customers at a time.

  • Agung Khalia Villa, Banjar Sala, Pejeng, +62 812 3983940, [52]. Two private villas - one 3 bedroom and one 6 bedroom. Panoramic rice field and Mount Agung views. Each villa has its own private pool, wonderful staff and excellent service. Only 10 minutes east from central Ubud in the same valley as the Maya Ubud resort and close to Goa Gajah. From US$ 185.  edit
  • Villa di Abing, Jl Jembawan, +62 813 38083508, [53]. A 3-storey, 3-bedroom, fully-staffed, luxury villa, in Central Ubud, offering bed & breakfast. Riverside pool, jungle views, within easy walking distance of Ubud town centre. From US$ 175.  edit

[edit] Get out

Ubud is well located for moving on to other areas of Bali. If you are moving east, the road to Candidasa and beyond via Klungkung is often busy with trucks, but a nice drive nonetheless. Back to Kuta will take about 45 minutes by car and north to Lovina via Bedugul about 2 hours.

Perama [54] offers regular direct scheduled bus services from Ubud to many locations. There are also other regular scheduled shuttle bus services to Kuta which you will see advertised all over town. Book one day ahead if you can.

  • Bedugul has a traditional fruit market, botanical garden and the Ulun Danu Bratan temple, about 1 hour north by car.
  • The region around Tabanan has Mount Batukaru and the Batukaru Temple, as well as the rice fields around Jati Luwih, about 1 hour north by car.
  • Lovina is an easy-going black-sand beach, about 2 hours north by car.

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