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Location
Flag
Quick Facts
Capital	Ashgabat
Government	Dictatorship
Currency	Turkmen manat (TMM)
Area	488,100 km2
Population	5,179,571 (July 2008 est.)
Language	Turkmen 72%, Russian 12%, Uzbek 9%, other 7%
Religion	Muslim 89%, Eastern Orthodox 9%, unknown 2%
Calling Code	963
Time Zone	UTC +5

Turkmenistan is a country in Central Asia with a population of about 5 million, and an area around half a million km², a bit larger than California or almost the size of Spain.

It has a coast on the Caspian Sea, but is otherwise landlocked. Neighboring countries are Iran and Afghanistan to the South, and Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to the North.

Overall it is a relatively poor desert country, although billions have been spent on the capital Ashgabat in post Soviet times. The traditional life of the Turkmen is that of nomadic shepherds, though some have been settled in towns for centuries. The country has extensive oil and gas reserves undergoing exploration and development.

[edit] Regions

Map of Turkmenistan

The great Garagum (Kara-Kum) desert occupies over 80% of the country in the West and center. The Eastern part is a less desolate plateau. The country shares a mountainous, or at least hilly, border with Iran.

[edit] Cities

• Ashgabat, the capital
• Balkanabat (formerly Nebit-Dag)
• Daşoguz (formerly Tashauz)
• Merv
• Türkmenabat
• Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) - a Caspian port

Historically, most of these towns were oases along the Silk Road.

[edit] Other destinations

• Darvaza Flaming Crater — At this spot near the town of Darvaza, an oil rig accidentally struck a large pocket of natural gas in 1971. The rig collapsed into the cavern, resulting in a large crater filled with fire. It was decided to let the fire burn rather than let the poisonous gas escape into the nearby town. The fire burns to this day and it is popular as being easily mistakable for the gates of Hell.

Pay a visit to 'Kow Ata' underground sulfur lake, found in the mountains an hour or so outside Ashgabat. It is possible to swim in the year-round warm, mineral rich, and medicinal waters. Expect a walk down increasingly slippery steps, and a corrugated shack to change in - unless you're handy with your towel.

[edit] Understand

North Korea may get all the press, but even Kim Jong-Il's cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal totalitarian state set up by Turkmenistan's all-powerful President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov. He adopted the title Turkmenbashi ("Father of All Turkmen"), named the city of Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) after himself, and built a 15-meter tall golden statue that rotates to face the sun in the capital Ashgabat. The month of January was renamed Turkmenbashi after himself, while the month of April and the word "bread" became Gurbansoltan Eje, the name of Niyazov's mother. Decrees emanating from Niyazov's palace have banned, among other things, lip synching, long hair, video games, and golden tooth caps. Through it all, Serdar Saparmurat Turkmenbashi the Great (his official title) remained modest: "I'm personally against seeing my pictures and statues in the streets - but it's what the people want", he said.

Since Niyazov's abrupt if unlamented death in December 2006, his successor Gurbanguly Berdimuhammedow has slowly peeled back the worst excesses of the Turkmenbashi, restoring pensions and old names.

[edit] People

The people of Turkmenistan are predominantly Turkmen, also spelt Turkoman, in both ethnicity and language. Turkmenistan traditionally was home to sizable Russian and German populations, but they largely emigrated to their mother countries following the break up of the Soviet Union.

[edit] Terrain

Turkmenistan is largely covered by desert, with intensive agriculture located in irrigated oases. One-half of its irrigated land is planted with cotton, making it the world's tenth largest producer.

[edit] Get in

Most all nationalities need a visa to enter Turkmenistan, and it has a reputation for being one of the more difficult to obtain. The hoops you'll need to jump through vary by nationality, but often involve needing to apply in person at their consulate in your home country, and letters of invitation from someone within Turkmenistan.

Arranging a tour may make things easier, as the company can help in getting the LOI and visa. Bear in mind that you might well have to be met by a guide, regardless of how you enter Turkmenistan. This can be particularly important, especially if your inward journey is delayed as is possible when entering across the Caspian Sea by boat.

[edit] By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines has direct flights to Ashgabat from London and Birmingham, used predominantly by the British Sikh community as a transit point for further flight to India and Pakistan. Look out for the portrait of Sapamurat 'Turkmenbashi' Niyazov at the front of the cabin. Turkish Airlines flies to Ashgabat from Istanbul. Lufthansa also flies from Frankfurt to Ashgabat.

[edit] By train

There is a railway connection to Russia and Iran but no train crosses the border at any point of the country.

[edit] By car

[edit] By bus

[edit] From Iran

Since no public transportation goes across the Turkmen border, to get to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan from Mashhad (Iran), the following option is the most convenient:

• Take a bus to Quchan: every 2 hours from 6.30am. Cost: 8000 rial. Duration: 2h30.
• From Quchan, take a private taxi to Bajgiran (village at the border). Cost: 60,000 rial for 2, or less if you can. Duration: about 1h.
• At Bajgiran, go to the border (opening time: 7.30 - 15.30 Iran time). Crossing the border can take up to 2 hours. Turkmen police will ask for an entry tax of $10 (per person) + $2 of bank fees (per group), to be paid in US dollars only.
• In the Turkmenistan side, take a taxi to Ashgabat, which can cost up to $15 per person. Duration: about 1h.

[edit] By boat

WARNING: According to the US embassy, [1]:Several popular travel guides discuss traveling by “ferry” across the Caspian Sea from Baku, Azerbaijan, to the port of Turkmenbashy in western Turkmenistan. Some travelers have faced problems attempting to travel to Turkmenistan by boat. Travelers should be aware that these “ferries” are in fact cargo ships that take on some passengers incidental to their primary function. Passengers are generally not provided food or water on these ships, and sleeping and sanitary facilities are likely to be rudimentary. Travelers should be aware that ships arriving at the port of Turkmenbashy often wait days offshore for outgoing ships to vacate the dock to allow incoming ships to disembark. Some travelers have spent more than a week offshore while their ship awaited permission to enter the port, and they have run out of stores of food and water, or had their Turkmen visas expire before they could be used. For this and other reasons travelers, especially those who plan to enter Turkmenistan by boat, are discouraged from using transit visas to enter Turkmenistan.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By plane

Internal flights are possible on Turkmenistan Airlines which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and a couple other destinations. Flights are subsidised, and due to fuel costs, extremely cheap. Prices are around $5 US for a flight from Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates with a new fleet of Boeing 737s, purchased in 2001. Be aware that you might not be able to photograph freely in and around the airport, though this is not unheard of elsewhere.

[edit] By boat

The Amu Darya is an important inland waterway for Turkmenistan.

[edit] By car

At least in Ashgabat, like in much of the former Soviet Union, "taxis" are mostly unofficial - and can be hailed by flagging down a car by the roadside. Haggle, and agree on the destination and price in advance - knowledge of Russian will definitely come in handy at this point.

The usual sensible precautions apply here. If your instincts suggest that something might be not quite right, then it's best to go with your instincts.

Roadblocks are in place throughout the country, so this method is really best used only within city limits unless you are specifically looking for trouble.

[edit] By train

It is possible to travel by train between some of the major cities in Turkmenistan, but journeys are slow (up to 16 hours from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi) - so unless you have a specific interest, plane travel is the best way to get around the country.

[edit] Talk

Around 70% of the people in Turkmenistan speak Turkmen, and 50% speak decent Russian.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit][add listing] Do

[edit][add listing] Buy

Turkoman rugs are famous, tending towards rich reds with geometric patterns. Sometimes they are called Bokhara rugs because Bukhara in neighbouring Uzbekistan was a center for their trade. Turkoman designs are now often copied in India and Pakistan.

The classic book on Turkoman rugs is "Tappiseries de l'Asie Centrale", in Russian and French by AA Bogolyubov, Tsarist governor of Turkmenistan, 1905. It was a limited edition with hand-painted illustrations, now rare and extremely expensive. A translation (the original French plus English), "Carpets of Central Asia", was published in Britain in the 60s. Even it is now hard to find and expensive. However, if you intend spending a lot on these carpets, it is definitely worth reading. Look for it in libraries.

Why not add to your own despotic library by adding Turkmenbashi's self-penned 'Ruhnama' book, exploring his views on what it means to be a Turkmen. Surprisingly, this is a fairly sensible read.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Expect distinctly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan, plov and more central Asian-type fare can be found in markets.

If you can find it, try sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, sometimes prepared in a 'tempura' style.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Look out for a range of 'Turkmenbashi' labeled vodka, which can be washed down with the range of Russian 'Baltika' brand beer. Tea is excellent and readily available.

Best to err on the side of caution, and stick with bottled water. As in Russia, you may want to specify byehz gah-zah (literally, 'without gas' or 'still; plain') if you do not like fizzy water. 'Borjomi' mineral water from Georgia is available in Ashgabat's shops.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Stay safe

The recent death of Saparmurat Niyazov has created some uncertainty about the situation in the country. Visitors should exercise caution with regard to local politics — keeping aware of developments but avoiding any involvement.

It is possible to take photographs relatively freely in Turkmenistan. However, you are best advised to exercise caution when photographing anyone in uniform or government buildings. Play it safe early on in your visit to give yourself an idea of what is acceptable.

It should not be necessary for your guide to accompany you if you wish to leave your hotel, and go for a wander.

Do not under any circumstances criticize the president, the country or its people. Things have eased a bit since the Turkmenbashi's death, but the country remains a tightly-controlled police state.

The Ruhnama, a book written for the Turkmen people by Supurmurat Niazov is still sold, and still learned in Turkmen schools. As such, it is best regarded to not criticize the former President as well.

[edit] Stay healthy

[edit] Respect

Most Turkmen will respect you if you respect them. They detest being called Russians or Soviets.

[edit] Contact