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Rome/Trastevere

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Santa Maria in Trastevere
Santa Maria in Trastevere

Trastevere is a district in Rome. The district's name derives from the Latin words "Trans Tiberem": Beyond the Tiber river. Today Trastevere is the heart of the Roman night life, rich in pubs, restaurants, clubs. The area is highly populated by expatriates and American college students as there are two American universities in the area.

[edit] Get in

  • Trains (marked regionale, not the express to Termini) from Leonardo da Vinci airport stop at Trastevere Railway station. Then hop on tram n° 8
  • Tram n° 8 From Piazza Argentina. This is a nice tram from Trastevere to close to the Pantheon that runs frequently.
  • Night Bus n° 8
  • Bus n° H from Stazione Termini (main trainstation)

NB: Non-local cars are not permitted to park in Trastevere after dark so you'll have to park close and walk if you're going by car.

[edit][add listing] See

  • Santa Maria in Trastevere, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, +39 06 581 4802. One of the oldest churches in the city. The nave is lined with a mismatched collection of columns taken from ancient Roman buildings. The apse is covered in gold mosaics from the 13th century, arguably the finest mosaics in the city.  edit
The interior of Santa Maria
The interior of Santa Maria
  • Church of Santa Cecilia. Very ornately done and beautiful inside, but don't expect any information in English. All information panels are only in Italian. It's still a beautiful site though even if you don't read Italian.  edit
  • Isola Tiberina. Located in the middle of the Tiber River (Il Fiume Tevere) that separates Central Rome and Trastevere (among other areas), it boasts both a major hospital, called Fatebenefratelli, and a small synagogue. It also has a café and gelateria on the Rome side. It can be a nice alternative to getting to and from Trastevere if crossing the heavily trafficked Ponte Garibaldi ever gets old. Be sure to get photos from Garibaldi though as Isola Tiberina truly is beautiful.  edit
  • Il Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill). is, contrary to popular belief, not one of the original seven hills that Rome was founded on. It is among the highest, if not the highest, though and offers incredible panoramic views of the city.  edit
  • Villa Farnesina, Via della Lungara 230, +39 6 68027268. This Renaissance house is in Trastevere, very close to the river and not far from the Vatican. You can tour several beautiful rooms covered in frescoes, including some by Raphael.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Get lost in Trastevere. The cobbled streets are narrow and winding and random but losing your way will lead you to places you might not otherwise find. Note that the cobblestone streets (locally called sampietrini) are being paved elsewhere in Rome as the vibrations from cars driving over them have been found to lead to cracking in the foundations of many of the monuments and historic sites around the city. These sampietrini are mostly being left alone in Trastevere though.  edit
  • Pasquino Cinema, Piazza S. Egidio 10, 065815208. If it is pouring with rain or you just want to sit down for a couple of hours after too much sightseeing, Pasquino is an English-language cinema with three screens.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

  • Viale di Trastevere, from the start of this street at Ponte Garibaldi and all the way to the Trastevere Train Station you can find stands selling fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers, clothing, accessories (such as knock-off designer purses and wallets) and a number of other things.
  • Porta Portese, on Sunday mornings hosts a huge flea market. Extends from Porta Portese to Viale di Trastevere.
  • Frengo's music, Via della lungaretta, 65, +39 06 58 33 24 02. One of the few CD shops in the center of Rome still run by a music lover instead of a shop assistant in a franchising chain. You can find a nice selection of CDs, DVDs, Console games and Dolby Surround home stereos.  edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

Isola Tiberina from ponte Garibaldi
Isola Tiberina from ponte Garibaldi

Trastevere is the best place in city to get great Italian food at reasonable prices. There are dozens of quality restaurants in this area. A few are listed below; prices for a pizza or pasta dish with some wine or beer and bruschetti are around 12-15 euro and should not exceed 20 euro per person, though if you want to spend more you certainly have the option. Restaurants tend to open much earlier here than in other parts of Rome, mainly to cater to tourists as no self-respecting Roman would go out for dinner before 20.00.

  • Augusto, Piazza de' Renzi 15. A small osteria in the heart of Trastevere that offers great food at very reasonable prices. Don't expect any touristy frills from this place (or very good English for that matter)--Augusto is an authentically Roman restaurant. Classic Roman dishes are served alongside fantastic hand-made desserts and great wine. It's a good idea to phone ahead to see if they have room because this small place fills up fast every night. If you're planning a stay in Trastevere (or anywhere in Rome), don't miss Augusto.  edit
  • Fior di luna, Via della lungaretta 96, +39 06 6456 1314, [1]. Very good ice cream in the heart of Trastevere. If you are walking in the area, don't miss tasting their wonderful ice cream. Everything is made from Fair Trade products, and all ice cream flavors really taste as you expect! Great sensations here, ice cream artist with passion for taste!.  edit
  • Glass Hostaria, vicolo del Cinque 58 (Trastevere), +39 06 58335903 (, fax: +39 06 58349666), [2]. Tue-Sun 8-11pm; closed Jan 21-Feb 6. Glass is beautiful, it is an uber-modern trattoria, warm and welcoming precious stone, mounted in an area rightfully famous in the world for its decayed walls, the ivy climbing on the old buildings…” €30-50.  edit
  • Il conte Tacchia, Vicolo del Bologna 87, +39 06 581 3189. Roman cuisine at dinner.  edit
  • La Fraschetta, Via San Francisco a Ripa (close to Viale Trastevere), [3]. Reputed to have the best gnocchi in the city, but it's only offered on Thursday nights. They offer four different sauces with gnocchi, and if you like cheese the best bet is gorgonzola. If you want to come on a Thursday, go early (it opens at 7pm), because by 9pm, the normal time to arrive at a restaurant in Rome, it will be packed.  edit
  • Osteria dell'Aquila, Via Natale del Grande 52/53 (take the H bus to Trastevere), +39 06 5810924 (fax: +39 06 5810924). We-Mo. Great Mediterranean style restaurant. Menu is in Italian and English, and the waiters speak both languages. Open for lunch and dinner. The meals here are excellent and at very good prices. Make sure to try the seafood appetizers.  edit
  • Osteria der Belli, (very close to Piazza di Santa Maria). Run by four brothers from Sardinia. Particularly recommended for its seafood dishes.  edit
  • Pizzeria Nick & Tony, Via di San Francesco a Ripa 21. Open everyday.. Great little pizzeria run by 2 friendly Neapolitan brothers. You can get a big slice and a huge ice cold beer for €5. The place gets full of locals. That should tell you everything. €5. (41.8876461386,12.4715269483) edit
  • Planet Kebab, Via Natale del Grande, 17, +39 06 581 98 63. Good Turkish food, from Kebab to Falafel. This place is very clean, and the guys working there are very friendly. They claim to be open every day of the year.  edit
  • Ristorante Asinocotto, Via dei Vascellari 48, +39 06 5898985, [4]. Lunch Tu-Sa noon-2:30PM, dinner Tu-Su 7:30PM-11:30PM. Located in a beautiful and tranquil area not far from Isola Tiberina with really excellent dishes and desserts. The menu changes with the seasons and everything on the menu is delicious. Deserts are not to be missed. Everything is home made (including pasta) and the owners also have a farm in Tuscany which provides lots of fresh goodies (their selection of goat cheeses is outstading). Chef is Giuliano Brenna, a celebrity. They are open both lunch and dinner. See below for Wine Bar information.  edit
  • San Calistus, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 9 (Close to Piazza di Santa Maria). One of the best pizzerias in all of Rome.  edit
  • Taverna Mercanti, (near the church of Santa Cecilia). on the other side of Viale Trastevere from most of the other restaurants. Hard to find but well worth it for perhaps the best dining experience in Rome. In the summer months you can sit outdoors in a beautiful setting, or inside it resembles a hugely atmospheric medieval barn. Pizza is the best choice here (though there are other options) with the Pizza Mercanti particularly recommended.  edit
  • Tony's, Via della Cinque (near Piazza Trilussa (off the Lungotevere, near the Ponte Sisto)). Great little place on a beautiful old Roman laneway with indoor and outdoor seating. Excellent dishes include one of the best lasagne's in the city as well as plenty of pasta, meat and seafood options. Risotto alla pescatora (seafood risotto) is delicious; ask for it if it's not on the menu. Egyptian waiter Alex will take great care of you.  edit
  • Trattoria de Gli Amici, Piazza Sant'Egidio 8, +39 06 580 6033. Closed on Sunday. Open from 7:30PM to 11:30PM. Very interesting place in the heart of Trastevere district. Run by very kind handicapped people, it has nice cuisine.  edit

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  • Vincenzo alla Lungaretta, via della Lungaretta 170/173, +39 06 580 0345. Out of the way. Great food and great service and a very reasonable price  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

  • Baccanale, Via della Lungaretta. A small bar with a great range of drinks, friendly staff and a manic display of cocktail making later on in the evening. There are several TV screens showing major sporting events. Probably the best bar in the world considering it's location and stereotypical perfection. The staff are very welcoming to tourists. It is a secret that you'll be lucky to find in the narrow, winding streets of Trastevere.  edit

  • Garbo, Vicolo di Santa Margherita 1a., +39 06 581 6700. This is a very small gay bar located in an area not catering much to those seeking gay nightlife. The décor is fun and the staff are very nice. Drinks are good, but expensive. As it is small it can get crowded. In spite of this it's best to visit Garbo when you've had enough of Coming Out (Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 8 - by the Colosseum) or the more intense Muccassassina (Via del Comercio, 32) and are seeking a more relaxed and casual come down from your night out. They are open later than most of the other gay bars.  edit
  • Ristorante Asinocotto, Via dei Vascellari, 48., +39 06 589 8985. Listed above as a restaurant this locale is primarily a wine bar with a selection of over 300 wines, spirits, and drinks to choose from. They're open from 8PM until 11PM so a perfect place to go for a relaxing after dinner drink before heading to one of the many bars in Trastevere or clubs throughout the city.  edit
  • Shelter, Via dei Vascellari 35, +39 06 588 0862. Another small and relaxed bar. Located right near the Ristorante Asinocotto in a quiet area of Trastevere. Very hospitable staff and they play soft music by candlelight.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Hotel Cisterna Rome, Viale della Cisterna, 7, +39 06 581 7212 (fax: +39 06 581 0091.), [5]. Two star hotel with 24 hour reception. 20 rooms, All equipped with modern services and private bathrooms. Bookable online. €110-190.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Hotel Santa Maria, Vicolo del Piede 2, [6]. Very nice gated hotel in the heart of Trastevere just off Piazza Santa Maria. The desk staff are great and the accommodations are quite comfortable, and there is a nice courtyard to boot. €160-230.  edit
  • Hotel Villa della Fonte, Via della Fonte dell'Olio, 8, +39 06 580 3797 (, fax: +39.06.5803796), [7]. Small hotel, all rooms have a private bath, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV and air conditioning. €150-180.  edit

[edit] Contact

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!