From Wikitravel

Ryōgoku (両国) is located on the eastern edge of Tokyo, in Sumida ward. Ryogoku is nearly synonymous with sumō wrestling, one of Japan's most famous sports, where the human behemoths grapple and attempt to hoist each other out of the ring. The Edo-Tokyo Museum, an excellent and large museum on the history of Tokyo, is here, as well as a collection of quirky special-interest museums.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By train

Ryogoku is accessible on the JR Sobu line from Akihabara and Chiba, as well as the Toei O-Edo subway loop line.

[edit] See & Do

• Ryogoku Kokugikan (両国国技館). [1]. The largest sumo arena in Japan with a capacity for 10,000 spectators, this is where grand tournaments or basho are held in January, May and September. These tournaments last for 15 days, and are filled with ceremony and ritual which observe strict hierarchies not just for the wrestlers, but also for the referees and callers. The competition each day begins around 9:00 AM with the amateurs, and from there, wrestlers compete in progressing order of seniority. The professional wrestlers start around 2:35 PM, but the excitement begins when the top division makuuchi enter the ring in the dohyo-iri ceremony at 3:50 PM. The tournament culminates when the high-rank yokuzuna and ozeki have their bouts, around 6:00 PM. If you have seats far from the ring, but arrive early, it is possible to borrow some seats close to the ring until mid-afternoon, when most spectators begin to arrive. English pamphlets describing the day's program and sumo in general are available. Food is available inside, at somewhat inflated prices. There are now signs prohibiting you from bringing in outside food and drink, but it seems that enforcement is spotty. Advance-booking Western-style chairs on the second floor are ¥3600, 4900 and 8400; Japanese-style box seats on the first floor are ¥9200, 10300 and 11300. These can be purchased at ticket outlets and convenience stores. You can buy unsold seats on the day of the tournament for ¥2100, but only at the Kokugikan box office.

• Sumo Museum (相撲博物館). Mon to Fri, 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM [2]. Located on the first floor of the Kokugikan, this quirky little museum documents the history of sumo — unfortunately mostly in Japanese only. Entry is free, so it's worth a quick peek anyway; note that the museum is closed on weekends.

• Instead of peering at wrestlers through binoculars from the cheap seats at Kokugikan, you can see sumo up close and personal by visiting a sumo stable (beya) to watch the morning training, generally held from 6:00 AM to 10:00 AM daily (and no, you don't have to stick around for the whole time). Advance arrangements will be necessary, preferably with the help of a Japanese speaker, and a "donation" of around ¥1500 is expected. While watching the training, keep quiet and do not take flash photos. Note that many stables — particularly those with very famous wrestlers — do not permit visits.
  • Isenoumi Stable [3] has an informative English home page and is happy to arrange visits.

• Sumo Photo Museum (相撲写真資料館） 3-13-2 Ryogoku. (03-3631-2150) Open Tues only, but every day during sumo tournaments.

Ryogoku does have some non-sumo attractions of interest:

• Edo-Tokyo Museum (江戸東京博物館 Edo-Tōkyō-hakubutsukan) [4]. One of the best museums in Tokyo, and that's saying something, this bizarre multi-story edifice suspended in midair and bearing not a small resemblance to a Star Wars Imperial Walker covers the history of the metropolis, starting from the days when it was selected as Japan's new capital Edo all the way through the Kanto earthquake and firebombings of World War II. The museum is built with the latest technology including life-size replicas of entire buildings. Free, informative tours are available in several languages, depending on which volunteers are around. Entry ¥600, open 9 AM to 5:30 PM daily except Monday. Near subway exits A3/A4.

• Ryogoku Fireworks Museum (両国花火資料館) 2-10-8 Ryogoku (03-5608-6181). Noon to 4:00 PM Thu, Fri, Sat. Open everyday in July and August. Free admission.

• Paulownia Wood Furniture Museum　(kiri no hakubutsukan 桐の博物館) 4-1-3 Ryogoku (03-3632-0341). Open 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, closed Weds.

• Tabi (Japanese socks) Museum (tabi shiryokan 足袋資料館) 1-9-3 Midori (03-3631-0092). Open 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, closed Sun.

[edit][add listing] Eat

• While in sumo town the thing to do is eat sumo food, namely the hearty chanko-nabe (ちゃんこ鍋) stew that forms the bulk of a rikishi 's diet. Many a sumo wrestler sets up a chanko restaurant when they retire, and many of those establishments can be found here. Be warned that this is usually fairly expensive, with sets starting around ¥2500 for two.

• Popeye Beer Club 2-18-7 Ryogoku (3633-2120). 5:00 PM to 1:00 AM, until 2:00 AM on Sat. Closed Sun. [5]. Popeye's is arguably the best place in Tokyo, if not the world, to try Japanese microbrews. There are 40 beers on tap, which cover the full range of beers from familiar ales to barley wines and rauchbiers. The food menu is interesting, try the avocado and blue cheese. English menus are available. Pints of beer are around ¥900, half pints and a sampler set are available.