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Ninh Binh

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Ninh Binh (pronounced Neeng Beeng) is the capital city of Ninh Binh Province in North Vietnam, famous for the nearby Karst scenery and the village of Tam Coc. There is nothing to do in Ninh Binh itself aside from drinking beer with the locals; the town is more useful as a base for the surrounding countryside.

Get in[edit]

By taxi[edit]

Taxis from Hanoi costs US$68 Taxis from NoI Bai international airport cost $85 usd , 2 hour journey

By bus[edit]

There are regular buses from Hanoi's southern bus terminal (Giap Bat) that leave every 15 min (or whenever full) 70,000 Dong. Note that this may rise to 90,000 per person with luggage.Journey time for the 90km is 1.5-2.5 hr traffic depending. Buy a ticket in the ticket hall or you will likely have to pay more than 70,000 or be removed from the bus.the service is slow but relaxed and comfortable using one of the very common Hyundai 20-odd seat buses.

Open tour buses will drop passengers off upon request (Ninh Binh is not a regular stop). Most open tour buses from Hanoi will arrive at 9:30PM. Tour buses from Hue arrive at a rather early 4AM.

From Cat Ba island you can book a bus-boat-bus-bus ticket for 230,000 dong. It leaves at 9am and takes about 5h. The first bus takes you to the western side of the island where you transfer onto a boat to the port area south of Haiphong. A second bus takes you to a bus station in the city from where transport is provided to Bến xe Niệm Nghĩa bus station. From there you wait for the bus to leave at 12pm. The bus ends at Ninh Binh bus station, walking distance from hotels and hostels. All the above uses local transports so expect locals boarding at various places. [Sep 2013]

Alternative buses including tourist ones leave from Haiphong a few times a day.

By train[edit]

Ninh Binh is a regular station for the Reunification Express, with trains coming from both North and South. It is usually a quick stop, with few people getting off, especially at night, so get off quick or miss the stop. Hard Seat 35-45,000 depending on train number 2-2.5 hours.

If you have very rigid travel dates, are travelling on a public holiday, or can't be bothered to head down to the train station before your train you can book tickets online. Vietnam Impressive [1] is a reliable agency.

By Car[edit]

You can hire a private car from Hanoi to Ninh Binh or from the way back from Halong bay.

Get around[edit]

By motorbike[edit]

A motorbike is the best way to view Ninh Binh and the surrounding areas. Most hotels can arrange for a motorbike driver/guide to take you around the sites for about US$15 a day. Hire a motorbike (commonly Honda 110cc) for 100,000 Dong. These take 3 litres of fuel costing 70,000 which will last a day of exploring.

By bicycle[edit]

Cycling is a good option for visiting nearby sights. Finding a bicycle for rental is easy.

By foot[edit]

The actual town of Ninh Binh is quite small and walkable. Most of the interesting sights are located 10-20 km away.

See[edit][add listing]

  • Tam Coc, (9 km south of Ninh Binh, along Hwy 1). One of Vietnam's most spectacular sights. A boat must be hired that will take you through the waterways between vast limestone cliffs that rise out of the rice paddies. The area is somewhat similar to Halong Bay, but more accessible and much less touristy. Beware, the floating drink sellers can be very persistent. They are located after the third cave. Most will ask if you would like to buy a drink for the rower. This is usually sold back immediately for half price. Rowers can usually row with their feet as well as their hands, which makes quite an interest sight. Possibly the best time to go is in the morning or late afternoon, when its quieter and cooler with more shade. Last boats start out about 5:30PM in the summer and 4:30PM in the winter. Its an easy bicycle ride here from Ninh Binh, with no hills. When leaving your motorbike in the carpark, beware of scamming thieves (such as removing a mirror while the motorbike is parked then selling it back to you for 100,000 dong) and look for official parking areas to avoid such scams. Those can be found on the big parking lot to your left when you arrive, just before the village, there is a booth at the gate. We paid 5000 Dong while at first being asked 10k, possibly the official rate is even lower. Some boats have boxes loaded upon departure. They are filled with handicrafts (you can check it), and are meant for you to buy. During the return trip the rowers - your own or those of nearby boats - might suddenly turn from friendly rowers to pushy sellers. Don't ruin your experience by allowing this. Demand a rower/boat without handicraft/souvenir boxes and/vor clearly show desinterest. The area around Tam Coc is equally beautiful, and is best viewed from the back of a motorbike or by bicycle. There is also a temple Bich Dong (free entrance) built into one of the hills which provides incredible views. To get there just follow the road pass the Tam Coc 'pier' for about 3km to the west. While seing the temple don't forget to go through the cave to reach the upper level and the next little temple. You may also like to ignore the sign and climb up the rocks (there is a clear path) to the top of the rock, the view is worth the scramble. 80,000 dong per boat, maximum 2 foreigners per boat plus entrance fee of 100,000 per person.  edit
  • Trang An Grottoes, (7 km from Ninh Binh). An easy bicycle ride away, Trang An Grottoes is similar to Tam Coc but with many more caves to pass through. Most caves have been widened in order for the boats to pass through and as result their natural beauty has been compromised. The first two caves are the most natural and beautiful but are also tight in places, so watch your head. Lots of concrete structures are being built all over the place and rice paddies are disappearing fast but hopefully this area will not lose its splendor. It might be worth bringing a torch in case the power fails and the lights go out, some of the tunnels are quite long and your rower may have forgotten their backup torch, as was the case for the boat in front of us and had to wait for our boat to provide light for them to navigate the last cave. 150,000 per person.  edit
  • Cuc Phuong National Park, (45km from Ninh Binh), [2]. Cuc Phuong National Park is approximately 1 to 1.5 hours from Ninh Binh. It is a well preserved rainforest with an Endangered Primates Rescue Centre near the entrance. You can visit the primates centre only with a guide, which costs an extra 50,000 dong per person. There are about 150 primates here being prepared for release back in the wild. Most are from other parts of Vietnam and any releases will be where they originally come from. There is also a botanical garden and a turtle center. There are no other major sights. From the entrance you can drive, motorbike or cycle a further 20 km along a densely rainforested road, from which several tracks lead you through the jungle to prehistoric trees and caves. Cycling is probably the most rewarding way to travel this 20 km of often steeply inclined paved road and mountain bikes can be hired at the park entrance. One of the amazing things about this drive is the 1000's upon 1000's of colourful butterflies filling the roadway. Peak time for butterflies apparently is during April and May but in later months there may still many to be seen. The road ends at the Park Centre (Bong) with a restaurant and a place to buy snacks, and where several forest walks start. Many of them require a guide (16$ per day, speaking good English and waiting at the reception), as the trailheads to the guided walks are hidden and in the past, tourists lost orientation in the dense forest, so rescue operations were required. One walk that can be done independ is 6-7 km long and leads through the primary rain forest with lianes etc. to a thousand-year-old tree. Some enjoy to touch the old cho xanh (parashrea stellata) and sau (Dracontomelum Duperranum or Dancorra Edulis) trees, 50-70 m high The best chance to see any animals here is at night. Guided night tours for overnight stayers are available costing $20. The park is also suitable to watch birds, butterflies and orchid flowers. They are more concentrated than in a typical butterfly farm enclosure. A limited amount of overnight accommodation is available in either a detached bungalow ($27) or a stilt house ($5-7). 40,000 dong entrance fee.  edit
  • Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. This 10th century royal city is just a short bike ride away from Ninh Binh. Not too much remains except for some beautiful archways and the temples of Dinh Tien Hoang, Nhat Tru Temple and Le Dai Hanh.  edit
  • Ma Yen. Climbing up 500 steps, this mountain gives you a great view of Tam Coc and the surrounding valley. A nice climb and great views  edit
  • Bich Dong Pagoda, (Follow the road pass the Tam Coc 'pier' for about 3km to the west.). An interesting 15th century pagoda with three levels in a steep Mountains side, offering nice views. Ha, Trung, and Thuong Pagodas, in ascending order. Some of the temples are build right into caves and you can explore. After the highest temple you may also like to ignore the sign and climb up the rocks (there is a clear path) to the top of the rock, the view is worth the scramble. free.  edit
  • Phat Diem Cathedral. A 19th Century structure that mixes Eastern and Western Architectural styles. It has a large grounds with gardens and 4 smaller churches surrounding the main one.  edit

Do[edit][add listing]

There is nothing to do in Ninh Binh itself. Beautiful Tam Coc, Bich Dong, Dich Long, Hoa Son, Tien caves, Van Trinh Grotto can be visited nearby.

Buy[edit][add listing]

Eat[edit][add listing]

Mountain goat (de nui) meat is a local speciality, often eaten with fried rice (com chien). Another local specialty is com chay, which is the burnt rice off the bottom of the pot, served with pork. Duck features in many restaurants, and there are numerous dog-meat restaurants scattered throughout town (look for signs with a picture of a Great Dane or similar breed and the words thit cho).

The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker area, and there are 4-5 backpacker cafes there with English menus and tourist prices (40,000-70,000d; coffee 15,000-20,000d). The three most popular restaurants are called "Good Food", "Cheap Good Food", and "Fast Food Cheap" (all on Hoang Hoa Tham).

  • Pho B o 24, Ninh Binh (Go along Luong Van Tuy Street). For 30,000 dong we visited a great place with fried rice, noodles, pickled vegetables. the workers there speak english. 30,000.  edit

Drink[edit][add listing]

There are plenty of Bia Hoi sellers along side the river in the late afternoon / evenings. One glass usually costs 5,000 dong.

Plenty of places sell sugar cane drink with ice for about 5,000 dong.

Drink[edit][add listing]

Sleep[edit][add listing]

There are a number of cheap hotels just outside the train station and next to the bus station. Other hotels are located near the center of town. As there is nothing to see in town, either area is suitable. The area near the train station has become a mini-backpacker district, complete with travel agents, touts, overpriced drinks and English-menu restuarants.

  • Tam Coc Garden, Hai Nham Hamlet, Ninh Hai Commune, Hoa Lu District, Ninh Binh Province, Vietnam, +84 302 49 21 18, [3]. Tam Coc Garden situated at the heart of Tam Coc, natural site is known by the nickname Terrestrial Halong Bay, 100km in the South from Hanoi and 200km in the South-West from Ha Long Bay.The resort is accessible easily, it takes 2 hours transfer by car from Hanoi and if you go there by train, get off at the station of Ninh Binh.The hotel places in the middle of paddy fields, in the valley encircled by multiples pitons limestone.Tam Coc Garden situated in the village Nham, in the middle of valley surrounded by the multiform pitons limestone. It was built on the terrain of 6000 square meters.Waterway, bamboo hedges, fruit trees and vegetable garden form natural environment which inspire tranquility and relaxing US$105-US$140.  edit
  • Limestone View Homestay, Xuan Thanh Road, Xuan Ang Noi Village, Ninh Xuan Commun, Hoa Lu district, +84 918 453 761. Beautiful Homestay on the edge of town (built 2014) overlooking the limestone cliffs. Fantastic views from immaculately presented rooms. Very convieniently located for exploring nearby Trang An (UNESCO world heritage site) Wharf and Grottos, Tam Cok and on the road to Cuc Phong National Park. Breakfast included - delicious. Services available include: meals, rentals, transfers, free wifi, tours and travel advice etc. Very hospitable host, highly recommended as true family experience. US$10-15 (double room).  edit
  • Kim Lieng Guesthouse, Ngo 212, No. 54 (still listed on google as Van Thanh No. 54) (On a small and quiet sideroad not far from the center of town), +84306250800, [4]. Situated on a small and quiet sideroad this place is run by the charismatic Madame Kim Lienh, and is a no frills yet very honest place to stay. Rooms are clean ($17 for a double, +3$ for aircon) but basic. Kim is very friendly, provides help with local transportation, arrangement of public bus tickets and transportation and also sometimes offers to cook dinner for VND 70,000 per person (be prepared for loads of food). Doors close at 10.30pm, but the staff can be woken by simply knocking on the doors (or preferrably informing them of late arrivals or excursions beforehand). For our amusement, the rest of the pretty young staff seemed to get quite heavily stoned as it got late, to a point where ordering a beer scores you only puzzled looks. US$16-US$19.  edit
  • Ngoc Anh Hotel, 30 Luong Van Tuy St, +84 30 3883-768, [5]. Family hotel, friendly staff, good location, rooms are clean, all rooms have A/C, en-suite, cable TV with good reception, wifi. Deluxe rooms also have a computer, a fridge and balcony. There are 2 modern computers in reception/restaurant area. rooms include free breakfast and the hotel staff can arrange bicycle, motorcycle, or car tours of the area US$12-25.  edit
  • Nha Viet Hotel, Đường Lê Thái Tổ, phố Đẩu Long (On the way to the stadium of Ninh Binh Vissai FC), +84 91 553 1317. Owners (family) will help you in every possible way. Cook food that you want, english-speaking staff, motorbike rental, wifi, clean, washing clothes, convenient location, far enough from main road to provide peace and quiet. US$12.  edit
  • Queen Mini Hotel, 21 Hoang Hoa Tham (One block in front of the train station). Near the train and bus station, always packed with tourists and often full. Particularly popular with the French. Rooms are clean enough, but filled with insects. Wifi in the lobby, but it doesn't reach all the rooms. The owner's refrain is "You pay now". They are affiliated with "Good Food" restaurant across the street. Be warned: there are four hotels sharing this name, and it's not clear if any of them are related: The Queen Mini (this one), the Queen Hotel (across the street, upscale), the New Queen Mini Backpacker's Hostel (on the same street, often has grille down; they advertise rates of $3 incl. breakfast!), staff very unfriendly and unnerved by any questions, and the New Queen Mini Hotel (two streets south). US$6-15.  edit
  • Thanh Binh hotel, 31 Luong Van Tuy St, +84 30 872 439. Some members of the staff are somewhat helpful and friendly. Possibility to rent (motor)bikes for US$6/day. Breakfast is not included. Monosodium glutamate (MSG) is added to some of their foods. US$10-12 (double room).  edit
  • Thanh Thuy's Guest House and New Hotel, 128 Le Hong Phong, +84 30 387 1811, [6]. The guest house rooms are large and pleasant with a shared bathroom. Hotel rooms are en-suite and quieter as they're set back from the road. There's a reasonably priced restaurant adjacent to reception. Motorbike and bicycles available for hire. Staff are a little brisk but helpful and speak good English. US$6-10 (guest house), US$15-35 (hotel).  edit
  • Xua Hoa Hotel, 37 P Minh Khai (On the eastbound road from town center, next to a reservoir), +84 30 880-970. Owner will help you in every possible way. Great food, bicycle and motorbike rental, convenient location, though far enough from main road to provide peace and quiet. US$15-35.  edit
  • Kinh Do Hotel, 18 Phan Dinh Phung St (100 metres east of main [Hwy1]), 030 3.899.152, [7]. Newly purchased and managed by two brothers, Luong and Anh, who both speak good English. Clean quiet [despite proximity to main road] rooms, good food in clean restaurant, a/c, ensuite, free wifi in rooms,laundry,massage. Genuinely friendly staff. Very helpful [advice, bicycle/motorbike rental, tours to local attractions, pickup-dropoff at bus or train]. US 7-25.  edit


Get out[edit]

Laos - There is a nightly bus from Hanoi that can stop in Ninh Binh on request. From there it is a grim 20 hour ride to Vientiane.

Thanh Hoa - Local minibus takes around 1 hour and cost 50,000. You can hail one from the main road heading south. [Sep 2013]

Vinh - There are plenty of sleeping buses that pass through Ninh Binh, you can hail one from the main road heading south. Local minibuses doesn't seem to operate to Vinh so you will have to stop in Thanh Hoa and find another bus. A local minibus from Thanh Hoa to Vinh costs 100,000 so 150,000 total. There is a sign in the bus station at Ninh Binh stating 90,000 to Vinh. [Sep 2013]

Dong Hoi - To get to Dong Hoi from Ninh Binh either jump on a bus passing through which is heading to Hue or Siagon, jump from town to town on the local buses, or take the train (recommended). The train may cost a little more but is definitely worth it to avoid all the hassle and is a lot faster. [Sep 2013]

Hue - Sleeper bus 300.000 dong, leaves at 9pm. It comes from Hanoi and stops at Ninh Binh on request. You can book at the bus station which is at walking distance from the train station, or at your hotel in most cases. Many accidents reported but budget travellers still choose this option. It does not appear to be much different by many other night buses in Vietnam, if you're used to them. Not recommended even by the locals, unless they want to sell you a ticket. Trains take 12h and leave at 8.32, 11.17 and 21.12, cost spans between 290.000 and 700.000 dong depending on seat/sleeper type. Train- You can travel on an overnight train with the Reunification express. Tickets can be purchased in advance in Hanoi or online with Vietnam Impressive [8] a reliable agency.

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