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Taketomi
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Taketomi (竹富) is one of the Yaeyama Islands of Okinawa, Japan.
[edit] Understand
Tiny even by Yaeyaman standards, Taketomi (population under 300, area 5.4 km²) gets a disproportionate number of visitors because of its convenient location just off Ishigaki and, above all, its carefully preserved Ryūkyū village (集落 shūraku). Many houses in the village have red clay roofs with guardian shisa lions, a low surrounding wall of volcanic stone and extensive flower beds (particularly pretty in spring). Many roads are unpaved lanes of white sand and ambling water buffalo pull tourist-packed carts through town.
Note that the administrative area of Taketomi Town (竹富町 Taketomi-chō) covers not just Taketomi Island, but also the neighboring far larger island of Iriomote and in fact all of the Yaeyamas except Ishigaki and Yonaguni. An address with "Taketomi" in it may thus be located elsewhere in the archipelago!
[edit] Respect
Taketomi has no less than 30 on (御嶽), or holy places for venerating the gods, usually marked off with low stone walls and Japanese signage. Don't venture inside.
[edit] Get in
The only way to get to the island is by boat. Both Anei Kankō and Yaeyama Kankō Ferry run fast boats from Ishigaki to the dock on the east side of Taketomi every 30 minutes from 7:30AM to 5PM daily. The trip takes just 10 minutes and costs ¥580/1,100 one-way/return, there is little if anything to distinguish the two operators but Yaeyama has a few more services daily.
The very dedicated penny-pincher may opt for the Yaeyama Kanko slow cargo boat instead, which takes 30 minutes for the trip and costs ¥430, a savings of a whopping ¥150. The only problem is that the slow boat runs only twice per week, at time of writing on Monday and Thursday at 2:10PM, so this is not a very practical alternative.
[edit] Get around
[edit] By water buffalo
The touristy way to see Taketomi is from cart pulled by a water buffalo (水牛車 suigyūsha), complete with guide telling folk stories (in Japanese) and twanging on a sanshin while at it. 30-minute tours start from ¥1200, including port transfers.
[edit] By bus
Taketomijima Kōtsū minibuses ferry passengers from the dock to the village for ¥200 and to the beach for ¥300, and can also arrange pickups for the same price (advance booking required). Guided minibus tours are also popular, but available in Japanese only.
[edit] By bicycle
Probably the best way to get around is on bicycle. Prices are standardized at a rather steep ¥300/1500 for one hour/full day, the bike rental companies hang out at the dock and will transfer you for free.
Motorbikes are also available: a 50cc bike costs ¥800/4000 for one hour/full day, while a 70cc bike is ¥1000/5000.
[edit] On foot
The island can be covered on foot, but there's not much to see on the slogs between the dock, the village and the beaches (about 1 km each) and it can be pretty sweaty work in the summer when there is no shade.
[edit][add listing] See
Start your tour by dropping into the visitor center right next to the dock, which can give you a free rough map or sell you a better one (¥200). Most sights in the village are of fairly minor interest and it's generally more rewarding to amble around randomly, popping into little village shops and cafes.
[edit] Culture
- Kihōin (喜宝院), in the village. Japan's southernmost temple, but it's not much to look at. The resident priest's collection of 3000 historical items and handicrafts may be of mild interest, but entry costs ¥300.
- Nagomi-no-tō (なごみの塔), center of the village. Purpose-built concrete tower that offers views over the village.
- Mingeikan (民芸館), in the village. Has local artisans weaving traditional Yaeyaman minsā cloth. Free entry.
- Yugafukan (ゆがふ館), near dock. A new informative museum run by the national parks authority, but unfortunately all the information is in Japanese. The 15-minute film and the audio sets of Yaeyaman stories and songs are still interesting. Free entry.
[edit] Beaches
- Kondoi Beach (コンドイ浜), west coast. A spectacular expanse of white sand and turquoise water. Toilets and showers provided, all sorts of beach gear rental also available but at steep prices (eg. ¥1500/day for a parasol or mask and snorkel).
- Star Sand Beach (星砂の浜 Hoshizuna-no-hama). Taketomi is one of only two islands in Japan (the other is Iriomote) that accumulate this 'sand' formed from the shells of thousands of tiny crustaceans. There are in fact two star sand beaches here, namely Kaijihama (カイジ浜) on the southwestern coast and Aiyaruhama (アイヤル浜) on the eastern coast. Try your luck at finding your own, or take the easy way out and head to the nearest souvenir shop.
[edit][add listing] Do
[edit][add listing] Buy
Handicraft shops litter the streets of Taketomi. Popular buys include the local minsā, which is very expensive if hand-weaved and hand-dyed with indigo, and star sand, more affordable at around ¥30 per teaspoonful.
[edit][add listing] Eat
Much of the southern part of the island is taken up by a farm that cultivates kuruma-ebi (車えび), a type of shrimp, so no prizes for guessing what you are likely to find in any meal you order.
[edit][add listing] Drink
Taketomi has only one bar, Great Beats, which is on the edge of town closest to Aiyaruhama beach, a 10 minute walk from the beach. The bar features an extensive music collection, occasional live music, hand drums, and Orion beer on tap.
[edit][add listing] Sleep
The island has a surprisingly large selection of minshuku, most all of which charge a uniform ¥5500 for a bed and two meals. Most visitors choose to day-trip from Ishigaki instead, but it might be worth considering spending the night here to experience the island without the tour group crowds.
[edit] Budget
- Taketomi Guesthouse Je t'aime (竹富ゲストハウス ジュテーム) [1], Taketomi 321-1, 0980-85-2555. Dormitory beds for ¥1800. With young backpackers lounging in hammocks while reggae wafts in the background, Je t'aime is the probably the closest thing in all of Japan to a Thailand-style guest house. The owner sings and plays the sanshin, and is especially wicked on the sanba (three-leaf Okinawa castanets).
[edit] Get out
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