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Surat Thani

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For other places with the same name, see Surat (disambiguation).

Surat Thani (สุราษฎร์ธานี) is a city on the Central Gulf Coast of Southern Thailand. At approximately 125,000 residents, it is the eighth largest city in Thailand. It is also the capital of Surat Thani Province.

Understand[edit]

Surat Thani city pillar shrine

Surat Thani (often shortened to Surat) is the largest province of south Thailand. Surat Thani means "City of Good People", the title given to the city by King Vajiravudh (Rama VI). It is a gateway to the islands of Thailand's Gulf Coast: Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao. They are much-visited destinations, as well as Ang Thong National Marine Park. So there is not especially much to do or see in Surat Thani, which means there are not many travelers (meet only about ten Westerners in five days), which means it is a great opportunity to see a more real Thailand with local food range, local prizes, local chaos and unspent friendlyness.

Get in[edit]

Please be careful in this city! Scams appear to be a way of life here! The following are some of the usual:

1) If coming in by train, especially the overnight ones from BKK which arrive early morning. There may be numbers of touts who try to sell trips to Surat and the islands directly. Usually, the most aggressive are the most expensive. Ignore them,and take the bus into the city as below.

2) If coming in by bus. Especially the long distance buses. It is possible, or even likely, that at some point in the city outskirts, the bus will stop, and some people will board the bus. They will ask foreigners where they are going, and if to the islands,they will strongly insist that you get off the bus at this point to get transportation to the required destination for this. Apparently, their behavior will not be the same as that of the politeness and calmness of Thai people.They may try to unload your luggage from the bus to make you follow them. If you take them up on the offer, you will be taken several Km distant by songteow, which is promised to be free, to a travel agent in the city centre. You will be charged a ridiculous price to Koh Samui, and if you refuse, will then charge an equally ridiculous price for the songteow ride. Do NOT leave the bus at all!

3) The travel agents - many, if not most of these are scammers, and will charge two or more times the correct price for travel, whether to the islands or elsewhere. In Soi 31, are numerous travel agents, and this is where the local minibuses, buses to Krabi, and buses to the islands (may) go from. One in particular,Tanaporn Travel, at 442/313 Talatmai Rd, wanted double the price for a bus to Krabi, and a minibus to Chumphon (each of these incidents was about a year apart). This particular agent is on the left hand side as you leave Taladmai Rd into Soi 31, about five doors along on the left in Soi 31. Some buses coming in from Samui stop just around the corner in Taladmai Rd, and assorted touts try to entice travellers to this particular agency. About half way along the Soi on the right hand side,is another travel agent who charged a British couple B490 for a ferry to Samui (each). This was Dec 2013. Correct price from a hotel, and an online check is B300. The hotel travel agents appear to be honest if you are staying in the city. Also there is an agent located between Soi 27 and 29 on Taladmai Rd. This is to the left as you come out of Soi 31 (No 2 bus station), about 200 metres distant. They sell tickets to just about anywhere, and there are Thai people sitting inside waiting for transport, so they are more likely to be honest with their prices.

4) Transport drivers. A tuk tuk driver slurred "two hundred" into "twenty" really well. And then took the writer to the above Tanaporn Travel,where double the correct price to Krabi was charged. The bus conductor gave a knowing smile and did not even ask to see the tickets (the agent is on the other side of the road from the bus). It appears that bus Drivers and Conductors are in on some of the scams, as above and also as in -2) above (or why does the bus stop where it does?

  • Visa extensions. You can get your tourist visa extended (only 7 days for the 15 day overland stamp) and do some other stuff in the Surat Thani Immigration office. Say "Saala Karng" and any tuk tuk will take you east of Surat city center, to the government precinct (provincial court and provincial hall). Once there, drive behind the provicial hall and you will see a multi-storey white building with a strange blue tower at the front, facing 'backwards' as compared to the court building. There are lots of offices in this building, Immigration is pointed out in English, on the third floor. Stepping out of the lift, go to the left. There are two waiting areas and different desks. Go all the way through to Visa extensions (desk 3). Bring a photo or they'll sell you eight new ones for another 100 baht. The visa extension fee is 1900 baht and the extension goes on top of the time you already have, so you don't loose days if you go early.  edit


By plane[edit]

Surat Thani Airport (IATA: URT | ICAO: VTSB) is about 20 km west of the city in the Phun Phin District. Thai Airways, Air Asia, and Nok Air operate daily flights to/from Don Mueang International Airport and Suvarnabhumi Airport Bangkok. Also there's a new direct flight from Kuala Lumpur on Air Asia. Phantip Travel has bus service connecting all flights to the airport from Surat Thani. Phantip Travel (Tel. +66 77 272230, +66 77 282331) is located on Taladmai Rd. The price one-way is 100 baht.

If you want to go quickly to the airport, a tuktuk should charge about B400, which is reasonable for a foreigner considering the distance. But you can try to bargain it down, or try another tuktuk.

By train[edit]

The Surat Thani train station, despite its name, is located in Phun Phin (พุนพิน), about 15 km west of town centre. Most comfortable are the overnight trains from Bangkok, which arrive in early morning. There are regular orange non aircon buses to the left as you walk out of the station. these take you to to Bus Station Number One in Taladmai Rd (see below). Cost is B15 for the trip. A taxi to the city center from the trian station (Tapee hotel used as reference - advertised on big blue poster where taxi drives sleep) is 160baht, however on exiting the station most touts will try to push the same taxi for 300baht.

If you arrive from Koh Samui or Phangan on one of the later ferries (240baht combined ferry and bus ticket to surat thani town center) in order to catch a train to Bangkok (they start about 9pm) or Hatyai/Butterworth then the ferry company buses (both SeaTran and Raja ferry buses) will terminate in the city center (usually outside a travel agent), from there you need to negotiate a songthaew ride to the station, from repeated experience this is about 180-200 baht per songthaew, but your bargaining power will be initially in the hands of the travel shop when you disembark the bus so don't be surprised to be initially offered a per person price that can result in the songthaew effectively costing 400thb and up. In these scenarios walk away (or if on the seatran bus stay on another 0.5km until it terminates at the main seatran sales office - not the travel agent) then you can find a lone songthaew and acquire the correct price. Even though the private Songthaew is usually 200thb per songthaew, do agree the price per person, i.e. 200 divide by however many in your group to avoid any "confusion" on arrival.

Alternatively, if you arrive in Soi 31, cross the road to Bus Station 1 and take the B15 orange non aircon bus to the station. If you arrive after the buses have stopped running, you have the above option, (or in the Number one bus station), check if there are tuktuks or songteows, and hire directly rather than through an agent.

If already in possession of your train ticket (always a good idea to book ahead) and you have some time (e.g. a 1am train etc.) then head towards to the night market (where the slow boats to Samui/KPG go from - lat 9.143838, long 99.322768 - google map the cordinates) and enjoy a few outdoor beers + music and food, there is very little to do in Phun Phin except watching backpackers get increasingly angry due to delays and lack of facilities. You need safely about 20 minutes from Surat Thani centre to train station, although you can (at least for now) use http://58.181.223.142/srttts/view to monitor your train delay.

By bus[edit]

The new Surat Thani (long distance) bus terminal is located a bit outside the city (about 5 km); however if you plan to go directly into the city, it is usually possible to ask for a stop before.

If you are coming from Phuket, it takes about 6 hours to reach Surat Thani.

The bus station is actually located close to the four way intersection of the main north/south road, and the road into town in one direction, and to Phuket and the train station in the other. See below in "Get Around" how to get to and from. There may also be tuktuks there. Buses from Krabi actually stop in the city centre (see below)

If you are coming in from Phang Nga, a non aircon bus from there is B150 and takes 2.5 hours. It stops at the train station on the way and terminates in Soi 33 in the city.

If you come with the company Songserm (fairly priced joint tickets, not too bad normally), be warned: if (e.g. on their pier in Don Sak) you say that you want to go to the city center, they will put you with travelers to BKK, Krabi, Hat Yai and drop you at their private hub station some 15 km out of town in the middle of nowhere. After they told you that the bus ends here, your only chance apart from walking is a songthaew for 80 baht, awaiting you with a big grin. You might be better off getting on the bus to Phun Phin and take the public 15 baht bus from there.

By boat[edit]

You can take the ferry from any of the islands nearby, taking about two and a half hours. There is food for purchase on board and movies on some boats as well.

From islands such as Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao, a ferry ride takes between 2 and 9 hours depending on whether you take the fast or slow boat. The slow boat from Ko Tao is overnight and features mattresses for sleeping. The skipper is especially friendly. The Seatran ferry at Nathon, Koh Samui leaves almost every hour until 6pm and costs about 240 baht to Surat Thani centre.

The ride will generally cost between 200 and 600 baht depending on the season. Be wary of black market tickets as people will try to sell you tickets for over 2,000 baht promising food and DVDs included in the price.

Always go to a TAT approved travel agency.

Get around[edit]

This city is a little difficult to work out. There are three bus stations, and an airport and train station both roughly 15Km distant.

You usually come along the road into the city from the train and distant (new) bus station. The road crosses a river,and then becomes Taladmai Rd. To work out where you are - with Bus Station No 1 on your right (and No 2 directly across the other side of the road)- directly ahead on Taladmai Rd is the way out to the train and distant bus station -also the roads north,south and west,some 5Km distant.

Some 300 metres along the road (towards the out of town bus station) is the intersection with Chonkasem Rd (ถนนชนเกษม) To the left, the buses from Krabi come, and to the right is the Tapee Hotel, some 100 metres along. Another 100 metres along Chonkasem is Namuang Rd (ถนนหน้าเมือง)and on the corner is the Suratthani Hotel, also known as the Central Business District Hotel. It appears to be upmarket. To the right in this road (Namuang - is parallel with Taladmai Rd)) appears to be the main shopping strip. The street eats are in a Soi off this road, to the left if you are walking in this direction. (see below) Further along Chonkasem rd you will come to the river, in about another 300 metres. To the right there appears to be night time action on weekends.

BUS STATION NUMBER ONE:

This is located in Soi 8 (in) and 10 (out)in Taladmai Rd. It is named "Downtown Transportation Hub Talad Kaset 1" (there is a large blue sign at the entrance) From here go the local songteows, plenty of tuktuks, and the orange non aircon bus to the station for B15. Many of these buses have "train station" in English on the front, but all go there. On the way there,they turn right out of Soi 10 and continue several Km to the main out of town four way intersection (highway 401) Then they turn right into the road to Chumphon, and stop at the Big C,(for local shoppers), then go a little further before turning left, and meandering a little, before coming to the out of town bus station (on the left) It will then go a couple of hundred metres, before turning right into the main west road (from the abovementioned four way intersection), and will continue to Phun Pin. On return, it will turn into the bus station road, do a U turn at the bus station for any passengers, before going back out to the main road. It will then turn left towards Chumphon,and stop at the Big C, before continuing and doing a U turn at the Homepro,then turning left into the main road into town and terminating at the terminal.

In addition from here goes an aircon bus to Nakhon Si Thammarat. It goes roughly every hour, is blue in colour, and is located behind the orange train station buses. Cost is B100, and pay on the bus.

BUS STATION NUMBER TWO:

This is located in Soi 31 of Taladmai Rd, almost directly opposite bus station number one. It is named "Downtown Transportation Hub Talad Kaset 2" In this Soi are many Travel Agents (see scammers above). As you walk into the Soi from Taladmai Rd, on the right is the Bus to Krabi, and behind it goes a minibus to the same place. Buy your tickets from the bus agent, which is four doors down the Soi, with prices advertised. Bus is B150, minibus B170. they go regularly through the day. If the agent is not open, buy your ticket on the bus only and not anywhere else. About halfway along the Soi, also on the right are minibuses to Trang and Phuket. At the end of the Soi,on the right are minibuses to Chumphon for B170. In these places, you will see the prices advertised on the wall, and Thai people sitting inside and waiting for their minibus. Buy your tickets here only! The bus from Krabi arrives about half way along the Soi, before heading to the end for its return. In the centre of the Soi, (which connects with Soi 33), are many minibus and bus stops. Look for the sign and buy your ticket only from here and not a travel agent. You will usually see Thai people waiting for buses/minibuses here. The buses here go to Phang Nga, Phuket, and Hat Yai.

BUS STATION NUMBER THREE:

This is located some 5km out of town close to the four way intersection of the main highways north, south, west, and east into the city. To get from here into town,there may be tuk tuks, but there are plenty of non aircon orange buses which stop here. Cost is about B15. The one you want comes from the left on the opposite side of the road and does a U turn at the bus station. It will take you into the city. The one which comes from the right takes you to the train station. See in "Bus station number one" above the actual route these buses take to and from the terminal.

The city center with everything you need (city pillar shrine, night pier, visa extension office, post office, temples, all the markets and good street eats) is within walking distance - if you're a bit fond of walking.

See[edit][add listing]

  • Monkey Training College, 24 Moo 4, Tambon Thungkong, Amphoe Kanchanadit, 84290 Surat-Thani (8 km from town, in the direction to Don Sak.), +66 77 227351, or +66 84 7455662, [1]. An interesting place to visit. The owner trains monkeys to become coconut collectors. The training is done in an animal-friendly fashion. No punishments are given, only rewards. Also offers home stay ("home stay" is a word frequently used to indicate basic accommodations, and joining the host for meals) in two basic bungalows.  edit

Do[edit][add listing]

Buy[edit][add listing]

Eat[edit][add listing]

  • Kampan (กำปั่น), Amphur Rd. A romantic garden setting makes Kampan a great spot for a dinner date. It's classy and not too expensive. Massaman curry with chicken, 80 baht.  edit
  • Night Market (Talat Sanjao - ตลาดศาลเจ้า), Tri Anusonn Rd at Namuang Rd.. Walk the block and pick up whatever treats catch your eye, or grab a table at one of the restaurants and watch the market scene as you dine. Freshly juiced fruits, corn on the cob, squid-kebabs, fried chicken, saffron rice, pad Thai, sushi plus much, much more. This may well be the one where you see a Swensons, and then a family Mart in Namuang Road on your right as you walk along the street from the intersection with Chonkasem Rd (see above). Go into the street directly opposite the Family Mart and this is where the street eats are. Buy your beer at the Family Mart, and ask them to open it for you. Many of the stalls have tables at the rear, with cutlery and cups/glasses.  edit
  • Night Pier (ท่าเรือกลางคืน). A popular spot for tourists to eat and drink beer before boarding the night boat to Ko Tao or Ko Pha Ngan. Lots of food carts selling seafood and noodles and standard Thai fare at only slightly elevated prices. If you walk further down the road toward the bridge, you'll find fruit vendors galore.  edit

Drink[edit][add listing]

  • Chao Doi Coffee, 199 Rungruang Rd. 10:00-21:00. A great place to hangout while waiting for your bus/boat/train connection. 5 min walk from where the Ko Samui ferry bus drops you off in Surat Thani. Coffee prices are between 30-40 baht and there is free Wi-Fi. Homey atmosphere and friendly owner. Look for circular brown/green sign from the road. 30 baht.  edit
  • Coolin' Out Club Suratthani, 233/133 Karunrat Rd. Jazzy little hole-in-the wall bar with chilled-out ambiance and some of the best music for hanging out in all of Surat. The owners, Art and Joy, are friendly and good conversationalists, and Art makes high-quality cocktails. Prices for beer are high (90 baht for a small bottle), and mixed drinks range between 120-200 baht each..  edit
  • Lamoon, Amphur Rd. A pub run by Kai, who recently returned to Surat after spending many years in Switzerland. He is fluent in both English and German and has created a beautiful beer garden which also has some indoor seating. The food isn't the best, but the surroundings, the atmosphere and the clientèle more than make up for that. Friday night parties with lucky numbers and drinking games are a regular occurrence as are (fortunately very short) acoustic performances by a local American teacher.  edit

Sleep[edit][add listing]

Budget[edit]

  • Ban Don Hotel, (close to Ban Don Rd and Na Mueang Rd.). A place for really simple and clean rooms, and tuk-tuk drivers will try to take you there, but don't expect anything fancy. Most rooms don't have air-con or hot water and the entrance is through a shady looking restaurant. But, if you're looking for a place just to stay a night while passing through, it will do. Fan rooms 350 baht, A/C, 550 baht..  edit
  • Chayo Bar, (Talad Mai Rd near the entrance Talad Kaset 2 Bus Station). Free accommodation in a limited number of rooms, but do not expect anything special: mattress-on-floor rooms, fans and shared bathrooms. Run by Chayo and Toto who will look after you well but do not suffer fools gladly. Also serves food.  edit
  • Myplace@surat Hotel, 247/5 Namuang Rd (not far from the Tapee Hotel, a couple of minutes walk from river and night market.), +66 77 272288, [2]. Clean, good-sized rooms. Free Wi-Fi. Favoured by the locals for its cheap-and-chirpy nature. But it is quite a noisy place, especially the top floor with shared baths. 320-500 baht.  edit
  • Phangan Guesthouse & Hotel, 402/7 Taladmai Rd, +66 77 205799. Clean and convenient, near the minibus station and between the two bus stations. Basic and friendly. The owner is really nice. Each room is named after a Surat Thani provincial city. Fan for 300 baht, A/C room for 400 baht..  edit
  • Tapee Hotel, [3]. As a woman travelling alone I liked the bright entrance, staffed desk, and short distance to the market and bus stations. The rooms were older, very clean and the A/C worked quietly. There are two English-language channels on the TV (Al Jazeera and Star Movies), one Spanish, and one Cantonese, in addition to local channels. and it had a hot water shower. Can book to Koh Samui from the front desk at B300, which includes pickup about 7am. Located on Chonkasem Rd, (Taladmai Rd is about 100m distant to your right, and if you turn left into it, you will see the old bus station Rd about 100 metres further along.) It's about a 10 minute walk from the two bus stations and five from the waterfront and night market, which you should not miss. Turn left from the lobby, right at the next main road and follow your nose. The walk home later in the evening is interesting, as many of the short-time hotels have their ladies out, but the area is safe. As at Dec 2013 same price for the hotel. 2014 price is now 550 baht for a standard room (price on wall). 550 baht.  edit
  • Thaireungruang Hotel, (a block or two from the old bus station in the middle of town, a large sign on Talat Mai Rd lights the way). Business hotel. Relatively nice, quiet, clean and good-sized rooms. Some have TV and hot water (probably just the AC rooms). Wi-Fi available via username and password for 100 baht for 24 hours. The hotel staff are very helpful and polite and speak enough English to answer your questions. This hotel also has a free shuttle service to the bar, Chilling Out. A lot of prostitues are hanging around the streets close to this hotel. Fan single from 280 baht, air-con double 450 baht.  edit
  • Surat Guesthouse. ducked right behind the above mentioned, rents basic fan rooms for 200 baht (small bed, without window) or 250 baht (large bed), private shower, shared toilets. Great free WiFi and a fast and well equiped computer in the lobby.  edit

Mid-range[edit]

  • 100 Islands Resort and Spa, [4]. Clean, spacious rooms. Wide range of facilities and amenities including air conditioning, mini-fridge in the room, a pool, spa and restaurant on site. It's located slightly outside the city centre. If your taxi driver doesn't know where it is, they should know where Tesco-Lotus is, the hotel is near there. To reach the city centre, there are 20 baht tuk-tuks driving past the hotel every few minutes. 770-1,200 baht.  edit
  • Grand Thara Hotel, 1/144 Donnok Rd, +66 77 273 740-3 (fax: +66 77 287 185). 450-550 baht, including simple breakfast.  edit
  • Princess Park Hotel, 19/19 Leangmuang Rd, +66 77 405 989-92, [5]. This is a muslim hotel. Good food, good staff, no alcohol served. 650-900 baht.  edit

Splurge[edit]

  • Diamond Plaza Hotel, (It's on the outer edge of town as you enter from Phun Phin station. You can take any of the orange train station buses to get there.). This is the best hotel in town.  edit

Get out[edit]

Most travellers in Surat Thani are on their way to or from the islands:

If travelling from Surat to anywhere, please read the travel agent scam report above.

To get out of the place, the old bus station is in Talatmai Rd Soi 8, and the current one for buses to Krabi,and minibuses is in the Soi almost directly opposite, Soi 31. (see above) To get to the out of town bus terminal, train station and airport, please also read above.


Routes through Surat Thani
BangkokLang Suan  N noframe S  PhatthalungButterworth
BangkokLang Suan  N noframe S  Nakhon Si Thammarat
BangkokLang Suan  N noframe S  Trang




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