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Stari Grad

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Balkans : Croatia : Dalmatia : Stari Grad
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Stari Grad

Stari Grad Banner.jpg

Stari Grad is the oldest town in Croatia and one of the oldest settlements in Europe. Positioned between protected bay area and Stari Grad Plain (Starogradsko polje) UNESCO Heritage site it has been inhabited since the arrival of Greek colonisers in 384 BC.


Stari Grad is a gem of a city with its medieval renaissance classicist and also socrealist architecture with older building spreading across the Southern part of the bay and the newer to the North. Modern development is limited by the sea on one side and Unesco Heritage fieldsite on the other – the newer part of the city is, somehow slowly but gradually, spreading in the northern direction towards and beyond once-popular socialist complex of hotels and bungalows that used of offer free stay in case it rained and can now be bought for a nominal price with many million kunas of debt.

Get in[edit]

  • By either car ferry (approx. 2h), arriving at Trajektna Luca (Ferry Port Stari Grad or fast ferry (a hydrofoil/catamaran) (approx 1h) to Hvar City from Split, services operated by Jadrolinija [1]. Buses operates to bring people to the centre but a walk along the coast is much more pleasant and will take you only fifteen minutes. Turn immediately to the left and carry on the pedestrian path. No street lighting makes it difficult but romantic walk if you arrive with one of the evening or night ferries. During high season there is a convenient water taxi [2] that will take you directly from Stari Grad harbour to the ferry for 15 Kuna.
  • Blueline [3] . Car and passenger ferries run once a week during the high season (May-September) to and from Italy.

Get around[edit]

Buses meet the car ferries at Stari Grad and run to various destinations such as Hvar town (27kn one-way). Don't take taxis from the ferry port, they're a rip-off.

You can easily rent a car for about 350 kuna a day if you wish to explore other parts of the island. The rental agencies have firm policy of a minimum of one day rental (no hourly rentals). You can also rent a scooter or moped for about 250 kuna a day. There are hourly rates for the mopeds and scooters. The roads on hvar can be steep and windy and there are no guard rails, so be careful especially if riding a rented moped which is old and has already done tens of thousands miles.

Keep in mind that there are only 2 petrol stations on the island: in the town of Hvar and near Jelsa. From Securaj to the nearest petrol station on the island is approx 50km.

See[edit][add listing]




The arts[edit]

Hikes and walks[edit]

Walk along the fields of Stari Grad Plain to see one of the longest-cultivated agricultural lands in the world.

Scenery and nature[edit]

Religion and religious sites[edit]

Do[edit][add listing]

Buy[edit][add listing]

  • FANTAZAM, Ivana Gunduliča 6 (One of the small side streets on Riva leading to Antika Restaurant). 12-23. Fantazam is a small gallery positioned within traditional Croatian townhouse and featuring captivating jewellery, mainly hand bracelets and necklaces handmade by a local artist Zoran Tadic whom you can see at work on the gallery’s premises. Each piece, inspired by science fiction literature and world mythologies is unique and made with astonishing attention to detail using only natural materials including bones, leather, fur, precious, semi-precious and beach stones. Also on display and sale dazzling sculpture pieces. Open during the season from May until November.  edit

Eat[edit][add listing]

  • Pizzeria Marko, Trg Ploča 3 (at the end of Riva turn right), 0038521765889. 8-24. offering attractive prices and both indoor and outdoor sitting overlooking a pretty square and the end of the bay. Marko is one of the two restuarants in Stari Grad that remains open throughout the year. It thus attracts a mixed clientele of locals and tourists and conversations might run in Dalmatian Croatian, German, French, Italian and Slovene all at the same time. Probably best pizza in town baked on wood in an old school stone oven. Try the Marko version (with everything) at 65 HRK or with scampi (scampi from the island) also 65 HRK. Otherwise go for grilled meats such as veal 75 HRK, one of the excellent pastas such as daily home-made lasagne (vegetarian and meat) 55 HRK each and during the season pasta frutti di mare 70 HRK or simply ask for daily special at 45 HRK is best bargain in town, always a hit and never a miss. Don’t forget to ask about daily desserts. 45-120 HRK.  edit
  • Jurin Podrum, Dolnja Kola 11 (first street parallel to the Riva (promenade) watch out for a large wooden sign.), 00385 98 502747. 12pm- 12pm. Jurin Podrum is romantically located on Dolnja Kola the ancient trading street that currently experiences humble signs of revival. Over its nearly hundred-years long history it withstood six different states and hosted some prominent guests including abdicated King Edward VIII. It is now run by the fourth generation of the dedicated Pavicic family. Simple wooden tables both inside and outside, cameral atmosphere, fast and friendly service and medieval stonewalls protecting from scorching summer sun all make for a perfect meal out. The menu features a fusion of Dalmatian classics such as scampi buzara (in tomato and white wine sauce) at 120 HRK, bargain mixed grill at 80 HRK and seafood risotto or pasta (70 HRK a piece) and more modern variations on the subject such as the amazing diced beef on rukola with fig sauce and almonds (110 HRK) or cassrecce (pasta) with chicken, dried figs and green peppers with some splashes of culinary genius. Riblja plata (seafood platter) 70 HRK is to die for and gives all the variety and sheer simplicity of the island food on one plate. Also excellent octopus with polenta or vegetables that come from the nearby UNESCO-protected fields, the same goes for potatoes (krumpir), rukola and olive oil. Fresh fish sourced from local fisherman mooring his boat some hundred meters away and, thus, its variety depends on the daily catch. For dessert, panna cotta with lavanda is simply a must and, for the strong-headed, tasting of island-brewed rakijas ranging from medica (honey), martina (myrth) to rogač. Short but tantalising wine list including some of the island’s best. Worth booking during high season. Open from mid-May until beginning of October. 70-120 HRK.  edit

Sleep[edit][add listing]

  • The Mediterranean Scent (Stari Grad), Ivana Rendica 5 (, +385916455284. checkin: 15.00; checkout: 10.00. The apartment in the house is on the first floor and has a large sunny terrace. It is fully furnished and modernly equipped for 4 persons. 5 minutes to the beach, and 15 minutes' walk to old town center. 40-75.  edit


At every arrival of a ferry, a bunch of people offering private accommodation will show up.

Otherwise sit down in one of the cafes or restaurant in the city and ask one of the locals or tourists for recommendations.


  • Jurjevac, HR-21460 Stari Grad, Njiva b.b., +385 21765843 (), [4]. Stari Grad boasts a quiet camping site right in the centre of town with lots of shade, humble facilities and friendly staff. 3,50-4,50 € per person, 6,50-10 € per pitch. (43° 10' 56N,16° 35' 36E) edit

Get out[edit]

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