The Ssese Islands are an archipelago of eighty-four islands in the northwest of Lake Victoria, Uganda. About forty-three of the islands are inhabited. The islands vary in size from less than 10,000 square metres, to over 40 kilometres in length for the largest island, Buggala.
Buggala Island is easily accessible by ferry, and is a regular weekend destination for Kampala residents. The island forms an L shape (with the long stem of the L pointing South, and the short stem pointing West). There are several beachfront hotels situated along Kalangala Bay near the ferry dock, which is located near the corner of the L. The bay forms one large beach, and it is more or less possible to walk between most of the hotels along the beach. The bay itself is serene, but one of the hotels may blare out a thumping disco beat that covers the whole area, especially on weekends.
Bulago Island is a small island closer to the lakeshore that is run by a resort.
Bukasa Island is a small island containing Father Christopher's guest house.
Banda Island is another small island, more remote, that also has a guest house.
Other islands that can be visited (with varying degrees of ease) are Bubeke and Bufumira.
The islands get their names from the enormous swarms of lakeflies that breed in giant clouds near the shores. Although this sounds irritating, the enormity of the swarms is quite a sight. If one is caught near a breeding swarm, it can be quite a nuisance, though it disperses after a couple of hours. Otherwise, the lake flies are little noticeable, and they do not bite.
The islands are a Luganda-speaking area. Outside of Kalangala bay, locals on the islands may not speak English.
There are two large ferries serving Buggala Island. One, a modern passenger/car ferry, runs daily between the Nakiwogo dock just south of Entebbe and Kalangala Bay. The ferry departs from Kalangala for Nakiwogo at 8 am daily, and returns leaving Nakiwogo at 2 pm daily. The journey takes about 3.5 hours, and there is a snack bar on the ferry. The ferry costs Shs 10,000 per person second class, or Shs 14,000 per person first class. There is little difference between the two classes, except that the first class area may be less crowded. There is usually plenty of room for passengers, but space for cars is limited. Nakiwogo can be reached easily by taxi, and sometimes by minibus, from downtown Entebbe.
The second ferry departs from Bukakata (near Masaka) and Luku/Bugoma on the Western end of the island. It leaves Bukakata at 8:00 am, 11:30 am, 1:30 pm, and 4:00 pm, returning from Luku/Bugoma at 9:00 am, 12:30 am, 2:30 pm, and 5 pm. There are few accommodation options on this part of the island (see below). This is a wide, flat pontoon ferry, and is somewhat more chaotic than the Kalangala ferry. To get to Bukakata, bear left at the Total garage approaching Masaka from Kampala and turn left again at the Nyendo Trading Centre and once again left at the Petro Uganda filling station. By public transport, ask the conductor to get out at Nyondo stage about 2 kms from Masaka town. There are several pick up trucks making the 40 km journey between Nyondo and Bukakata daily in each direction. From Bukakata to Kalangala, it is 32 km by road, and there are regular pick up trucks in both directions.
Transport to Bulago Island by speedboat can be arranged with the owners. An airstrip is being built on the island.
Other islands may be served by lake taxis. These are large wooden boats, perhaps 10m in length and 2-3m wide, that transport goods and local passengers around the islands. The bottom of the boats may be filled with ice, soda, bananas, etc. on which passengers will have to find a seat. These leave from the Kasenyi fishing terminal, about halfway between Kampala and Entebbe. There is no dock -- passengers are carried through chest-deep water on the shoulders of porters -- so expect to get a bit wet. These boats also rock in the waves much more than the larger ferries, so passengers may experience some sea sickness. The boats do not provide life vests. It is best to inquire with your place of destination to find out the timings for the boats, as they may vary a bit. The boats also do not always keep to their schedules, so arrive early and expect to wait around. There are small restaurants to have a soda and a snack while you wait. Kasenyi is about 5 km from the Entebbe-Kampala highway via a dirt road, and this road is served by minivans. It is not recommended to leave a car at Kasenyi (and it is recommended to watch your valuables) as it is a somewhat dodgy place. Most long trips cost around Shs 10,000.
Trips between the islands are by lake taxi. Private boats can also be arranged, but these tend to be expensive (something on the order of Shs 50,000 per boat per hour) because of the fuel costs.
Buggala Island is large enough to have diverse terrains. It is hilly. From the tops of the hills, though, the views are stunning. Most of the southern stem of the L is dominated by palm oil plantations, which dominate the landscape somewhat repetitively. Along the southern end near Mulabana, there is a swamp that contains hippos. Along the western end of the island, not far from Luku, is the Mutumbula swimming beach.
The islands are teeming with birds, and vervet monkeys are common. There are occasional large snakes.
Mostly, people just sit along the beach and stare at the tranquil surroundings. On weekend nights, there is a bit of a party scene along Kalangala bay, though the atmosphere is mostly relaxed.
Bicycles can be rented in Kalangala Town. It is a full day trip from there to Mutumbula (with time to spend on the beach in between), and an athletic dusk-to-dawn trip, or an overnight trip, to Mulabana and back. Kayaks and motorboats may be rented from the Hornbill camp.
The hotels along Kalangala Bay have acceptable Ugandan fare, and plenty to drink. It is quite possible to eat/drink at one hotel and stay at another. On the other island, visitors will generally need to bring some or all of their own food.
Most of the beach front hotels in Kalangala Bay have bars.
All listings below are in Kalangala Bay, unless otherwise noted.