From Wikitravel

Srinagar is the summer capital of the disputed territory of Jammu and Kashmir, India.

[edit] Understand

The city has become safer to travel since 2003, however the streets are still lined with armed soldiers. Any building of value will also have a sandbag bunker and razor wire for protection. If arriving from the airport, you will also notice hundreds of large, Western style vacation homes. These were built before the current conflict when domestic travel to Kashmir was booming. Currently most of these homes are empty, being squatted in or have been usurped for military use. Most people visit the city in the summer months. The temperature at this time is cool to pleasant. Light sweaters may be needed for occasional cool nights in the summertime. In winter, you will need full winter gear and expect snow and few places to have hot water.

[edit] Get in

Many people take the train to Jammu followed by a taxi or bus ride to Srinagar. The journey from Jammu to Srinagar in costlier in the summers because capital is being shifted from Jammu to Srinagar on both the state buses and Sumos. State buses are safer but take more time and are a bit uncomfortable.

Foreign travellers on visas are required to register upon arrival to their hotel or houseboat.

[edit] By air

Flights are operated by Jet Airways, Air Deccan, SpiceJet,Kingfisher Airlines and Indian Airlines from Delhi to Srinagar, or with a stopover at Jammu. The frequency is once or twice a day by each airline. The cost is approx Rs. 2,500 from Jammu and approx Rs. 2,500-5,000 from Delhi one way. The airport is still quite small and all flights originate in Delhi, pick up passengers and then return. It is also still heavily fortified and expect to see many soldiers with guns. Winter flights can easily be canceled and leave you stranded. Tickets are easy to purchase in town, but the airport requires a ticket for entrance. A taxi into town should be Rs. 350 and direct to Gulmarg is 1,200-1,500.

[edit] By taxi

Hiring a TATA Sumo SUV (fits up to 9 people, or 5 comfortably plus luggage) from Jammu costs approximately Rs.1,900-2,700 depending on time of year or even time of day. To reduce costs many people choose not to take an exclusive taxi, and share the Sumo taxi with other travellers. This costs about Rs. 150-400 per person. For a comfortable trip, try for a seat in the middle row - the front bucket seat is (sometimes uncomfortably) shared by 2 people, and the far back is for the "vomiters". The journey takes around 8 hours.

[edit] By bus

J&K SRTC operates fairly comfortable buses from Jammu costing around Rs 150 and do the journey in around 12 hours.

2 day buses run between Srinagar and Leh staying overnight in Kargil.

[edit] Get around

Auto-rickshaws can be found everywhere. Taxis and buses area also available. Motorcycles can also be rented for enthusiasts.

Negotiate a price with a rickshaw driver before getting in, or just act like you know and pay the driver upon arrival. Drivers usually don't speak English but there will always be a passer-by to help translate for you.

[edit][add listing] See

• The Mughal Gardens. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box-bright flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them - the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions. The beauty of these gardens is at their best during spring but the Mughal structure of these gardens lends them a unique sense of beauty even when the flowers are not blossoming.

• Nishat Bagh. Situated on the banks of the Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan Mountains as its backdrop, (11 km. from TRC), this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent view of the lake and the snow capped Pir Panjal mountain range which stands far away to the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in 1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan.

• Shalimar Bagh, the Moghul garden in front of the Dal lake built by Emperor Jahangir.

• Chashmashahi is another beautiful Moghul garden.

• Hazratbal Mosque, the white mosque is breathtakingly beautiful but be careful, as women can enter only the first part of the mosque.

• Ziarati Hazrati Youza Asouph, in the Khanyar area, about 150 meters NW of Dastgir Saheb mosque & shrine. This tomb, also known as Roza Bal, is believed by some to be the tomb of Jesus (part of the larger theory that he survived the crucifixion and made his way to Kashmir where he lived until at least the age of 100). It has been made popular by recent books such as Jesus Lived in India by Holger Kersten among others. It's down a little side road - ask around, pretty much anyone in the area can point you in the right direction.

• Shankaracharya Mandir, is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on a hilltop. It can be reached by a car or taxi. For security reasons, no cameras or cellphones are allowed within the temple and you are supposed to leave them in the vehicle before entering the temple premises. Cigarrates, liquor are to be deposited with the police personnel before the ascent of the hill as these items are against Hindu religion.

[edit][add listing] Do

All the hotels organize excursions (1,2,4 days) to see the Himalayan mountains. Beside that package tours by JKTDC can be a good option.

Go for a Shikara ride in the Dal lake which costs around Rs. 150 (off season) - Rs. 500 (peak season) for the whole Shikara. For better views and a more peaceful ride in an area devoid of other tourists, walk up a fair bit of distance till you can see the fountain and ask the Shikara rider to take you for a ride to the fountain. It costs Rs. 300 (off season) - Rs. 600 (peak season).

[edit][add listing] Buy

• You can buy nice leather products, or jewellery. Cashmere (Pashmina) shawls have been manufactured in Kashmir for thousands of years. Pashmina Shawls are very popular items for sale in the Valley, but make sure to test the quality before purchasing. The test for a quality pashmina has been warmth, feel and the passing of the shawl through a wedding ring. Secondly, the weave pattern on a good Pashmina is fainter than on a "silk Pashmina" or other wool Pashmina.

• You can also buy embroidered felt mats called Namdahs but the colours of the wool may be a bit too bright in most shops. The Government Emporia supplies might be better than the other private shops.

• There are also chainstitch rugs in two styles - English design or Kilim design - it will be evident what is meant when you see them.

• Carpets.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit][add listing] Drink

Kahwah is a traditional green tea recipe from Kashmir. The tea is made from green tea leaves with saffron strands, cinnamon bark and cardamom pods.Some varieties are made as a herbal infusion only, without the green tea leaves. Generally, it is served with sugar or honey, and crushed nuts, usually almonds or walnuts. There is another form of tea that is quite famous amongst the locals, its called 'Namkeen Chai' or 'Nun Chai'. It is pink in color and is also called Pink Tea. It is made from black tea, cardamom, various spices, salt and bicarbonate of soda. Also people like nune toath and dum toath which are very famous among sufis. Nunetoath is nunechai without milk and Dumtoath is strong form of Kahwa.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Srinagar is popular for its houseboats, which DO NOT float around the lake, but are anchored off-shore. It is a great and unique way to enjoy your stay in the city. Houseboats are accessible either by road,or by a short "Shikara" boat ride. Each houseboat usually has 2-5 bedrooms plus bath, dining room, living room, upper deck (good for sunbathing).

Many travelers tell stories of bad experiences while staying on a houseboat, others enjoy their stay greatly. To avoid bad experiences do not pre-book a houseboat before arriving. With the security situation, the majority are empty and you should be able to get a better price in person, and to get a better feeling of if you'll like the place and the owners. Boats with land access have the advantage of allowing you to leave if you feel uncomfortable, or just like going for a walk, although they tend to be nosier.

There are houseboats on Dal Lake and Nagin Lake. These can cost anything from Rs. 1000 (March 2008) - Rs. 5000 depending upon the time of the year. Houseboats on Nagin lake upscale and more expensive but are much more beautiful, and the Nagin lake location is serene. Price on Nageen Lake per person in September 2005 was 500 rupees per night including 2 meals. Expect to pay up to 3,000 for a couple on the deluxe boats. Boats on the Jhelum river are cheaper yet, but still comfortable, and close to the bus station, good if you are just transiting Srinagar to or from Ladakh.

Be sure to take a 1 hour boat tour of the lake inlets to get a nice glimpse of life and wildlife along the lake. Its averaged at about Rupees 300 to 500. A few areas are geared up for attracting tourists, but most much of the area is still untouched.

There are a wide range of hotels around Dal Lake. Prices vary from Rupees 500 to 5,000.

• Hotel Ishfan, Kohnkhan, Dalgate, Srinagar. Mid-range hotel with double room starting at Rs. 2500. In off-season, rooms can even be bargained upto Rs. 400. The in-house restaurant serves delicious North Indian food as well as chicken delicacies.
• New Shaheen, A house boat at Raj Bagh Ghat is a luxury and economical and as well as serene for those who wish to stay in house boat yet far from noisy area.In off season you can bargain upto Rs.600 for a double room with breakfast and dinner inclusive.So for those of you who wish to stay economically be sure to visit this place,a family with beautiful and smiling faces will serve you.Ph no
• Butt's Clermont Houseboat, One of the best addresses in the valley: the secluded northwest edge of Dal Lake. Butt’s houseboats have had some VERY famous guests, including Ravi Shankar, Galbraith, Rockefeller, and Yehudi Menuhin!

[edit] Get out

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