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Southeastern Anatolia
From Wikitravel
Contents
South-eastern Anatolia (Guney Dogu Anadolu), unofficially known in a geographical sense as Turkish Kurdistan, is a region in the south east of Turkey. It borders Syria and Iraq to the south, and Iran to the East.
[edit] Provinces
- Adiyaman Province
- Batman Province
- Diyarbakir Province
- Gaziantep Province
- Kilis Province
- Mardin Province
- Şanlıurfa Province
- Siirt Province
- Şırnak Province
[edit] Cities
- Adiyaman
- Batman
- Diyarbakir - the biggest city of the region
- Gaziantep
- Hakkari
- Kahramanmaras
- Mardin - a historical city with stonework architecture and Syriac churches
- Sanliurfa
- Sirnak
[edit] Other destinations
- Hasankeyf
- Beytussebap
- Nemrut Dagi (Mt. Nimrod) - a UNESCO World Heritage site
[edit] Understand
This region has a lot in common with its southern neighbours, namely Syria and Iraq, be it whether the culture, the languages spoken or the landscape, and is the "Middle-Eastern-most" part of Turkey.
[edit] Talk
While traveling in southeastern Anatolia, it is important to be conscious of whom you are speaking with. At military checkpoints, Turkish and English will suffice (most Turkish officers speak some English, usually due to previous training in the United States); it is critical not to test your smattering of Kurdish words with the Turkish military. When amongst Kurdish friends, the Kurdish language is appropriate, but be sure not to place your hosts in an uncomfortable situation by speaking in Kurdish while other Turks are present.
Arabic might also be useful as it is the mother tongue of many people living in the western and southern parts of the region, especially in and around Gaziantep, Sanliurfa, and Mardin.
Many Arabic and Farsi expressions have made their way into the local vernacular.
[edit] Get in
While not on the same level as the buses in western Anatolia, bus service into and throughout southeastern Anatolia is decent enough. You'll find buses running between most major destinations daily (oftentimes more than once daily). In the very deep southeast around Sirnak, Beytussebap and Hakkari, dolmus (shared van-taxis) and minibuses are far more common but do not run as frequently or on as tight a schedule.
[edit] Get around
Bus and minibus service is generally robust, although schedules are not closely adhered to and you may find yourself waiting an extra hour or two for that minibus that everyone has been promising will arrive soon. Private vehicles often serve as taxis but for fees that are higher than one would expect. Be ready to haggle. Hitchhiking is far easier than anywhere else in Turkey, with lift offers generally coming from the first vehicle passing by. It's pretty much safe, too, as long as you stick on the main roads at least. In the past, however, it's known that PKK have raided private traffic on roads in deeper southeastern Anatolia.
[edit][add listing] See
[edit] Itineraries
If militant activity is quiet, take the highway from Sirnak to Hakkari, with a detour north to Beytussebap. The highway skirts along the Habur River, the border between Turkey and Iraq, and affords spectacular views of the Kandil Mountains. A few minibuses run daily from Sirnak to Beytussebap. A morning dolmus (shared van-taxi) runs daily from Beytussebap to Hakkari, where you can catch proper coaches for northern destinations.
[edit][add listing] Do
[edit][add listing] Eat
[edit][add listing] Drink
Tea ("chay"): it's everywhere. Be sure to add copious amounts of sugar. Anything less than three cubes just won't do.
[edit] Stay safe
Stay abreast of the news in northern Iraq and southeastern Turkey before and during your visit to the region. The politics of the region is very fluid with the Turkish government threatening military intervention into northern Iraq and the Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) making raids on military outposts as well as attacking civilian targets like minibuses. The Turkish military will sometimes declare security zones in the area, making civilian travel to the region impossible. It is often best to talk to fellow travelers in Istanbul, Ankara or, even better, Diyarbakir before making your way into the deep southeast. Don't trust the Istanbulites who will suggest that you won't live through any visit east of Ankara. A vast majority of them have never left Istanbul. A trip to southeastern Anatolia is very much feasible and, for the most part, safe. The deep southeast should be done with more caution, but it too is possible for the hardy traveler.
[edit] Get out
Don't: It's far too beautiful.
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