Singapore/North and West
From Wikitravel
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The northern and western parts of Singapore are the city's hinterlands, consisting of jungle dotted with public housing blocks and a significant industrial area in the reclaimed area which was once Jurong Island.
[edit] Get in
The western junction of Jurong East is 30 minutes away from the city center on the MRT East-West Line. Traveling there by the North-South Line will take closer to 60 minutes.
See Johor Bahru for information on crossing the Causeway and the Second Link from Malaysia.
[edit][add listing] See
The sights of Singapore's hinterland can be easily divided in two: there's the zoo and the bird park, and everything else.
[edit] Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park
Without a doubt the top three attractions in the area, the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park offer joint tickets valid for one month: adult combination tickets to any two attractions cost $30, while all three are $45.
- Singapore Zoo, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT), ☎ +65-62693411, [1]. 8:30 AM-6 PM daily. One of the best zoos in Asia, if not the world — it was endorsed by the late Steve Irwin and Animal Planet uses it for some of its documentaries. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet moats. To spare yourself walking under the hot tropical sun, you can board a little train that trundles through the park, but it's still best to get there early. Kids will love the Jungle Breakfast ($18/12 adult/child extra), daily at 9 AM, where you're joined at a buffet breakfast by a host of critters from orangutans to otters and you can even try feeding the elephants; very popular, so book ahead.$16.50/8.50 adult/child (3-12 years). edit
- Night Safari, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT), [2]. 7:30 PM-midnight, last admission 11 PM. A part of the Zoo but located on completely separate grounds that are closed during the day, this is the world's first wildlife park built to be viewed at night. The grounds are in fact larger than the main Zoo and only parts are accessible to visitors on foot, so most people opt for the guided tram tour instead. There is a 30 minute show at the amphitheater with trained animal displays three times per night. (Sit in the center section three rows from the front for a nice surprise.) The tram tour is highly recommended unless you have the time to do a lot of walking and it brings you the eastern part of the park which is not accessible by walking. Lighting throughout the park is minimal, but sufficient. Stopping at the second tram station is a must as there is a walking path (The Leopard Trail) for viewing giraffes, flying squirrels, lions and others. Flash photography is not allowed, so a tripod is recommended. Some other animals you can expect to see include various types of tigers, elephants, bats, flamingos, porcupines, leopards, otters, badgers, and storks.$22/11 adult/child, tram $6. edit
- Jurong BirdPark, 2 Jurong Hill (Bus 194/251 from Boon Lay MRT), [3]. A 20.2 hectare open-concept park dedicated to, you guessed it, birds in all shapes and sizes. The Park specialises in birds from Southeast Asia and the more exotic and colorful tropical birds, and its collection of more than 8,000 birds from 600 species is among the largest in the world. The park is attractively presented and quite enjoyable even if you aren't a hardcore ornithologist. To ease the pain of slogging around in the tropical heat, you can circle the park with the Panorail monorail.$18/9 adult/child, monorail $4. edit
[edit] Gardens
- Botanic Gardens, Bukit Timah Rd, [4]. 5 AM-midnight. Features trees and plants from tropical climates around the world. Walking and jogging trails are throughout. Outdoor sculptures dot the gardens. Look for the girl on the swing that appears to hang from an invisible chain in the air. The main entrance is on Bukit Timah Road.Free. edit
- National Orchid Garden, in the Botanic Gardens. 8:30 AM-7 PM. This is where you can spot Singapore's national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid, and many more. Accessible by bus or car, parking at the visitor's center.$2. edit
- Chinese Garden and Japanese Garden, next to Lakeside MRT. Otherwise rather lacklustre, these are only worth a visit during the Mid-Autumn Lantern Festival (Sep-Oct, exact date varies), when the garden is lit up with tens of thousands of lanterns, including complex installations with moving figures based on themes ranging from Hello Kitty to Chinese folk tales.$4.50, but $13/9 peak/off-peak during festival. edit
[edit] Other
- Haw Par Villa, 262 Pasir Panjang Rd (Bus 10, 30, 188 from HarbourFront or bus 143 from Orchard), ☎ +65-68722003. 9 AM-7 PM. Formerly the Tiger Balm Gardens, this is the former site of the villa of the Tiger Balm brothers, Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, now packed with an incredibly bizarre assortment of statues illustrating Chinese legends and moral values. The most famous bit is the Ten Courts of Hell, which demonstrate in gruesome detail how sinners get punished in the underworld: for example, ingratitude is punished by grilling on a red hot copper pillar, while cheating in exams merits having your body dismembered and your intestines pulled out.Free entry, $1 for Ten Hells/Jade House. edit
- Labrador Secret Tunnels, Labrador Villa Rd (bus 408 from HarbourFront MRT, runs on weekends/holidays only), [5]. 10 AM-6 PM, guided tours every hour on the hour. Opened in May 2005, there are two ways of looking at these two restored British-era bunkers: either they're done a pretty good job of making a tunnel interesting, or even if you dress it up with spot lights and recorded booms, it's still just a bunch of tunnels.$8/5 adult/child. edit
- Reflections at Bukit Chandu, 31-K Pepys Rd, [6]. 9 AM-5 PM Tue-Sun. Small but well-implemented commemorative museum for the last stand of the Malay Regiment in World War II's Battle of Bukit Chandu. Nearest bus stop Pasir Panjang Community Centre (lines 10, 30 from central Singapore), but it's still a bit of a hike up the hill from here. If visiting here, make a short detour to the free Canopy Walk next door, an elevated footpath through the jungle offering nice views of Singapore's heartlands.$2. edit
- Singapore Science Centre, 15 Science Centre Road, [7]. 10 AM-6 PM Tue-Sun. Set up to promote interest and learning in science and tecnhology through assortment of exhibits. There are more than 850 exhibits in the various exhibition galleries and it is not possible to view all exhibits in one visit.$6/3 adult/child. edit
- Omni-Theatre, just beside the Singapore Science Centre. 10 AM-8 PM Tue-Sun. OMNIMAX movies and Planetarium shows can be viewed on a 23m and 5 storeys high screen, tilted at a 30 degrees angle to the horizon. Accessible by car, with ample parking lots. By train, take the MRT to the Jurong East station, then transfer to bus no. 335 or take a 8 minute walk from the station.$10/5 adult/child. edit
[edit][add listing] Do
To find out what a sauna full of bugs feel like, go for some steamy jungle hiking. Best times are very early in the morning or in the late afternoon.
- Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Hindhede Drive, [8]. At 166 meters this is Singapore's highest point — if you don't count the city's skyscrapers. It is also one of the last places in Singapore that is home to the original primary tropical rainforest that used to cover the entire island. You can scale the hill in 15 minutes if you follow the paved road (boring) or 45-50 minutes if you do it the long way around (more interesting). Watch out for monkeys! Don´t expect a stunning view from the top, though. Almost nothing can be seen through the thick trees. Take SBS bus 170 or SMRT 67, 75, 171, 173, 184, 852 and 961 to the Courts department store on Upper Bukit Timah Rd and walk.Free. edit
- Delta Sports Complex, 900 Tiong Bahru Road (Redhill MRT), ☎ +65-64719030. 9 AM-8 PM (hours may vary by facility). ClubFITT gym, swimming pool, badminton, hockey and petanque courts. edit
- MacRitchie Reservoir, Lornie Road (bus 162, 166 from Scotts Rd), ☎ +65-64685736, [9]. Park open sunrise to sunset, Treetop Walk open 9 AM-5 PM Tue-Sun. Rather more exciting than it sounds, this serene artificial lake is surrounded by acres of virgin jungle (and not a few golf courses). On the north side, the HSBC Treetop Walk is a 250-meter bridge suspended as high as 27m above the ground. Trails range from 3 to 11 km, and gluttons for punishment can hike all the way to Bukit Timah. There is a basic food court at the south entrance, and a ranger station with toilets and water at the 4.5 km mark (near Treetop Walk) on the north side.Free. edit
- Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, (Kranji Express bus (hourly) from Kranji MRT), [10]. Daily 7:30 AM-7 PM. If you want to see a mangrove forest, this is your chance. As the reserve is basically a swamp, bring plenty of mosquito repellant and keep an eye out for crocodiles.Free Mon-Fri, $1 Sat-Sun. edit
And there are a few things to do that don't involve stomping about in the jungle:
- Singapore Turf Club (Kranji MRT), 1 Turf Club, ☎ +65-6879 1000, [11]. Host horse races, most commonly on Fridays (starting 6:30 PM) but occasionally on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday as well. Betting is allowed, making this a major draw for local gamblers. The Upper Grandstand is air-conditioned, while the Lower is not.$3/7 Lower/Upper Grandstand. edit
- Snow City, 21 Jurong Town Hall Road, [12]. 10:30 AM-6:30 PM Tue-Sun. The first permanent indoor snow center in Singapore; interesting enough for residents of the tropics but probably not on the top of the agenda for pallid Europeans escaping their own winter. Sledding, snowboarding and other wintry pursuits, including the inevitable subzero bar.$12/18 for 1/2 hours. edit
[edit][add listing] Buy
There is little noteworthy shopping in the north or west, although the zoo and bird park have well-stocked gift shops. The major shopping malls are Jurong Point (MRT Boon Lay) and IMM (MRT Jurong East). A stroll around the HDB heartlands may uncover interesting finds, though, not to mention an authentic taste of ordinary Singaporean life.
[edit][add listing] Eat
[edit] Budget
Hawker food is cheap in the boondocks, and there are a few culinary gems to be found — if you can find them, that is.
- Bao Gong XO Fish Head Bee Hoon, Blk 721 Clementi West St 2 #01-100. This place lets you find out what happens when you add XO cognac to fish soup. Less adventurous souls may want to try sliced fish instead of fish head... edit
- Joo Siah Bak Kut Teh, Blk 347 Jurong East Ave 1 #01-221 (MRT Chinese Garden). One of Singapore's best-known joints for bak kut teh (lit. "pork bone tea"), a peppery pork rib broth. Two bowls, rice and a serve of mui choy veggies will set you back $9.10; add in $0.50 for some you tiow fritters from the shop next door to dip in your soup. Open from Tuesday to Saturday 8 AM to 8 PM, and to 3 PM only on Sunday. edit
- Samy's Curry, 25 Dempsey Rd (near Botanical Gardens), ☎ +65-64722080. Daily 11 AM-3 PM, 6-10 PM. An old-school Singapore institution in an open-air colonial building, serving rice and curries on real banana leaves as ceiling fans whir. Waiters walk around with buckets of curry (very cheap) and take orders for tandoori, fish head curry and other treats (which can be more expensive). No air-con, no reservations, no alcohol.$5. edit
- Yan Kee Food Stall, Taman Jurong Market & Food Centre #03-137 (MRT Lakeside). A local legend for Chinese-style curry fish head ($14/17 small/large), the gravy is good to the last drop. edit
- Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa, Blk 120 #01-75, Bukit Merah Lane 1, Alexandra Village. 8.30 AM to 3.30 PM. The best laksa in Singapore according to Makansutra and its many regulars. Expect to wait at least 30 minutes. Order with shrimp instead of cockles if raw shellfish is not your thing. Sold in sizes of $3/$4/$5. edit
[edit] Mid-range
- Colbar, 9A Whitchurch Road (off Portsdown Rd). Stuck in the past and proud of it, this low-key eatery started life as a canteen for British soldiers, and fare like ox liver with peas and chips still figure prominently on the menu. Recently relocated (complete with original building) out of the way of an expressway, but still very popular. Try the famous curries if British grub isn't to your taste.$5-10. edit
- Lim Seng Lee Duck Rice, 38 South Buona Vista Rd. Well-regarded specialist restaurant serving up tender boneless duck with their special sauce; be sure to order some "spare parts", their name for liver and gizzard. Prices above average but worth it.$5-22. edit
- The Lodge on Flamingo Lake, in Jurong Bird Park. Visitors to the Bird Park may wish to dine here for local food at reasonable prices, coupled with views of nearly 10,000 pink flamingos.$10-20. edit
- Marina Bistro, 10 Tuas West Drive. In the Raffles Marina at the extreme west of Singapore right next to Second Link bridge to Malaysia, offers very competent Singaporean and Western food. Try the excellent beef satay. Open to non-members for lunch and dinner daily; to get there, take exit 25 from the AYE, immediately before the Tuas checkpoint.$10-15. edit
- The Olive, Labrador Villa Rd (next to Labrador Secret Tunnels), [13]. Fairly decent pizza and pasta in a very attractive setting in the lush greenery of Labrador Park.$15. edit
- Zi Yean Food Centre, Block 56 Lengkok Bahru #01-443, ☎ +65-6474-0911. Locally famed outdoor coffee shop serving up Cantonese dishes like mui choy chicken (stuffed with pickled veggies), prawns wrapped in tofu skin and deep-fried, kangkong with century eggs, and abalone with chicken (a steal at $5/plate). Prices generally reasonable but some dishes can be expensive. Open for lunch and dinner, closed alternate Wednesdays. edit
[edit] Splurge
The Bukit Timah area to the west of the city is one of Singapore's poshest residential districts featuring many high-quality restaurants, particularly in the expatriate enclave of Holland Village [14]. Another good option is Dempsey Hill [15], a convenient cluster of British-era army barracks converted into restaurants for the expat set, just ten minutes from Orchard Rd.
- Borgo, 789 Bukit Timah Rd (off Sixth Ave), ☎ +65-64467762. Wed-Mon noon-2 PM, 6-10 PM. Small Italian eatery specializing in Tuscan charcoal grills. The pastas are also excellent, but pizzas are mediocre. Reasonably priced and very popular, so book ahead, especially on weekends.$40. edit
- Brazil Churrascaria, 14-16 Sixth Ave, ☎ +65-64631923. Waiters walk around with meat-laden skewers, just choose and eat. Decent salad buffet for the vegetarian contingent too. Open daily for dinner only.All you can eat $37++ (drinks not included). edit
- Margarita's, Blk 11 Dempsey Rd #01-19 (branches at East Coast Rd, Faber Drive), ☎ +65-64713228. Popular eatery featuring reasonably authentic Mexican eats like enchiladas with mole poblano (chocolate) sauce and refried beans, washed down with their namesake margaritas. Fills up fast on weekends with expats out to satisfy their Tex-Mex cravings, so book ahead.$40. edit
- Original Sin, #01-62 Chip Bee Gardens, ☎ +65-64755605. Tue-Sun 11:30 AM-2:30 PM, 6-11 PM. Continues to win awards for its Mediterranean vegetarian food.Lunch $20, dinner $40-. edit
- Sebastiens, 12 Greenwood Avenue, ☎ +65-64651980, [16]. French food but decidedly not haute cuisine, Sebastien's dishes up hearty portions of rustic fare. Try the assiette gourmande (a set of pâtes and terrines) and boeuf bourguignonne (red wine beef stew). Open for lunch and dinner daily and for breakfast on weekends only.$40. edit
Another small cluster of upscale restaurants is nestled on the grounds of the Botanic Gardens.
- Halia, ☎ +65-64766711, [17]. The location in the Ginger Garden of the Botanic Gardens is a reason in itself to visit especially at night, with stunning floodlit views of the surrounding jungle. The food is international with Asian twists, and while consistently excellent comes at a fairly steep price. To get there, enter the Gardens by the Tyersall Ave side entrance and walk a few minutes following the signs. Indoor and outdoor seating available, reservations recommended.$100. edit
- Au Jardin Les Amis, ☎ +65-64668812, [18]. Part of the "Les Amis" group of restaurants and situated in a restored 1920s residence in the Gardens. The food is mostly French with some other European dishes thrown in and many given a little Asian twist, but given the very high prices the quality is a little wobbly. There is a superb wine list and a very helpful sommelier on hand to answer questions. The views of the garden are gorgeous. Enter through the Corner House Gate and follow signs to Au Jardin/EJH Corner House (the name of the building which houses the restaurant). Reservations recommended.$150-200. edit
[edit][add listing] Drink
Except for the odd karaoke TV pub, beer at your favorite hawker stall and a few low-key hangouts in expat enclave Holland Village, the north and west of Singapore were long virtually devoid of nightlife. However, since 2006 there has been a veritable boom of colonial black & white bungalows being repurposed into upscale dining and drinking complexes, with areas like Rochester Park and Tanglin Village (Dempsey Rd) now buzzing on weekends.
- Baden-Baden, 42 Lorong Mambong (Holland Village). Mon-Fri 3 PM-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-1 AM. Well known restaurant-pub with German fare. Wood paneling, pork knuckles, German beer and good service. edit
- One Rochester, 1 Rochester Park, ☎ +65-67730070, [19]. 6 PM to 1 AM daily, breakfast from 9 AM on Sundays. Two-floor bungalow with a well-stocked wine bar, a lush outdoor seating area and DJ playing jazz and funky tunes, visiting this feels like crashing a Singaporean house party.$15. edit
- Oosh, 22 Dempsey Rd (Tanglin Village), ☎ +65-64750002, [20]. Noon-2:30 PM, 6 PM-1/2 AM weekdays/weekends. Slick complex divided into no less than nine parts set around a garden, options include an air-con wine cellar and a rooftop lookout with views over the jungle. A great place for drinks, especially when the Latin band is playing, but the food here is forgettable; although, unusually for Singapore, the kitchen does stay open late.$15. edit
[edit][add listing] Sleep
It's not really advisable to stay far from the centre in Singapore, but if you want to try life as the Singaporeans live it, you have one good choice:
- Hostel One66, Block 166 Woodlands Street 13 #01-545 (near Marsiling MRT), [21]. A family-run 12-bed hostel opened in March 2004.Dorms $18, singles $45. edit
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