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HDB blocks and MRT station, Jurong

The northern and western parts of Singapore are the city's hinterlands, consisting of jungle dotted with public housing blocks and a significant industrial area in the reclaimed area of Tuas. In addition there is a reclaimed island, Jurong Island, made from the merging of 7 previously smaller islands.

[edit] Get in

The western junction of Jurong East is 20 minutes away from the city center on the MRT East-West Line. Traveling there by the North-South Line will take closer to 60 minutes.

The North-East MRT traverses up to Sengkang and Punggol on the northern coast of the island, but doesn't go to very many places of interest for even the most determined of travellers.

See Johor Bahru for information on crossing the Causeway and the Second Link from Malaysia.

[edit][add listing] See

The sights of Singapore's hinterland can be easily divided in two: there's the zoo and the bird park, and then there's everything else.

[edit] Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park

Bored proboscis monkey, Singapore Zoo

Without a doubt the top three attractions in the area, the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park offer joint tickets valid for one month: adult combination tickets to any two attractions cost $32, while all three are $45.

• Singapore Zoo, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT), ☎ +65-62693411, [1]. 8:30 AM-6 PM daily. One of the best zoos in Asia, if not the world — it was endorsed by the late Steve Irwin and Animal Planet uses it for some of its documentaries. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet moats. To spare yourself walking under the hot tropical sun, you can board a little train that trundles through the park, but it's still best to get there early. Bring along swimsuits for kids, so they can cool off in the "Kidz Zone". There's also a Jungle Breakfast ($25/16 adult/child extra), daily at 9 AM, where you're joined at a buffet breakfast by a host of critters from orangutans to otters and you can even try feeding the elephants; very popular, so book ahead. $18/9 adult/child (3-12 years).  edit
• Night Safari, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT), [2]. 7:30 PM-midnight, last admission 11 PM. A part of the Zoo but located on completely separate grounds that are closed during the day, this is the world's first wildlife park built to be viewed at night. The grounds are in fact larger than the main Zoo and only parts are accessible to visitors on foot, so most people opt for the guided tram tour instead. There is a 30 minute show at the amphitheater with trained animal displays three times per night. (Sit in the center section three rows from the front for a nice surprise.) The tram tour is highly recommended unless you have the time to do a lot of walking and it brings you the eastern part of the park which is not accessible by walking. Lighting throughout the park is minimal, but sufficient. Stopping at the second tram station is a must as there is a walking path (The Leopard Trail) for viewing giraffes, flying squirrels, lions and others. Flash photography is not allowed, so a tripod is recommended. Some other animals you can expect to see include various types of tigers, elephants, bats, flamingos, porcupines, leopards, otters, badgers, and storks. $22/11 adult/child, tram $6.  edit
• Jurong BirdPark, 2 Jurong Hill (Bus 194/251 from Boon Lay MRT), [3]. A 20.2 hectare open-concept park dedicated to, you guessed it, birds in all shapes and sizes. The Park specialises in birds from Southeast Asia and the more exotic and colorful tropical birds, and its collection of more than 8,000 birds from 600 species is among the largest in the world. The park is attractively presented and quite enjoyable even if you aren't a hardcore ornithologist. To ease the pain of slogging around in the tropical heat, you can circle the park with the Panorail monorail. $18/9 adult/child, monorail $4.  edit

[edit] Gardens

Pond in the Botanic Gardens

• Botanic Gardens, Bukit Timah Rd, [4]. 5 AM-midnight. Once considered among the finest botanical gardens in the British empire, and still a firm favorite for visitors and locals alike. Features trees and plants from tropical climates around the world. Walking and jogging trails are throughout. Outdoor sculptures dot the gardens. Look for the girl on the swing that appears to hang from an invisible chain in the air. Picnicking is allowed, but there are also quite a few cafes and restaurants (see Eat). Free.  edit
• National Orchid Garden, in the Botanic Gardens. 8:30 AM-7 PM. This is where you can spot Singapore's national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid, and many more. Accessible by bus or car, parking at the visitor's center. $2.  edit
• Chinese Garden and Japanese Garden, next to Lakeside MRT. Otherwise rather lacklustre, these are only worth a visit during the Mid-Autumn Lantern Festival (Sep-Oct, exact date varies), when the garden is lit up with tens of thousands of lanterns, including complex installations with moving figures based on themes ranging from Hello Kitty to Chinese folk tales. $4.50, but $13/9 peak/off-peak during festival.  edit

[edit] Historical

Quite a few sites related to World War II are scattered around the island, but most will appeal only to war history buffs.

• Labrador Park and Labrador Secret Tunnels, Labrador Villa Rd (Bus 408 from HarbourFront MRT, runs on weekends/holidays only). 10 AM-6 PM, guided tours every hour. Opened in May 2005, there are two ways of looking at these two restored British-era bunkers: either they're done a pretty good job of making a tunnel interesting, or even if you dress it up with spot lights and recorded booms, it's still just a bunch of tunnels. There are also some machine gun posts, old artillery guns etc scattered about in Labrador Park, which also has some walking trails and quiet stretch of seashore opposite Sentosa. Park free, Secret Tunnels $8/5 adult/child.  edit
• Memories at Old Ford Factory, 351 Upper Bukit Timah Road (Bus 173 from Bukit Batok MRT), ☎ +65-63327973, [5]. Mon-Sat 9 AM-5:30 PM, Sun noon-5:30 PM. War museum at the old Ford Motor Factory, where British Lt-General Percival surrendered Singapore to the Japanese. Focuses on the subsequent Japanese occupation and the experiences of both civilians and POWs with modern presentation and multimedia gadgetry, but if you're pressed for time, the Changi Chapel covers much the same territory and is probably the more interesting of the two. $3.  edit
• Reflections at Bukit Chandu, 31-K Pepys Rd, [6]. 9 AM-5 PM Tue-Sun. Small but well-implemented commemorative museum for the last stand of the Malay Regiment in World War II's Battle of Bukit Chandu. Nearest bus stop Pasir Panjang Community Centre (lines 10, 30 from central Singapore), but it's still a bit of a hike up the hill from here. If visiting here, make a short detour to the free Canopy Walk next door (a part of the Southern Ridges Walk), an elevated footpath through the jungle offering nice views of Singapore's heartlands. $2.  edit

[edit] Other

Happy Confucian family, Haw Par Villa

Disrespect your elders? It's off to the lava pits for you!

• Haw Par Villa, 262 Pasir Panjang Rd (Bus 10, 30, 188 from HarbourFront or bus 143 from Orchard), ☎ +65-68722003. 9 AM-7 PM. Formerly the Tiger Balm Gardens, this is the former site of the villa of the Tiger Balm brothers, Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, now packed with an incredibly bizarre assortment of statues illustrating Chinese legends and moral values. The most famous bit is the Ten Courts of Hell, which demonstrate in gruesome detail how sinners get punished in the underworld: for example, ingratitude is punished by grilling on a red hot copper pillar, while cheating in exams merits having your body dismembered and your intestines pulled out. Free entry, $1 for Ten Hells/Jade House.  edit
• Kong Men San Phor Kark See Monastery, 88 Bright Hill Road (Bus 410 or 52 from Bishan MRT), ☎ +65-68495300, [7]. 5 AM-4:30 PM. Singapore's largest Buddhist temple and monastery sprawls over a hill in a residential suburb of Singapore. Founded in 1920, the present buildings are all oversized and rather gaudy concrete structures, but it's still a rather surreal place. The highlight is the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas, whose dome is decorated on the inside with, you guessed it, ten thousand tiny Buddha figures. Runs meditation retreats (mostly only in Chinese though) and gets packed with worshippers on major Buddhist holidays.  edit
• Omni-Theatre, just beside the Singapore Science Centre. 10 AM-8 PM Tue-Sun. Omnimax movies and planetarium shows can be viewed on a tilted 23-meter-high screen. From Jurong East MRT, transfer to Bus 335 or walk 8 min from the station. $10/5 adult/child.  edit
• Singapore Science Centre, 15 Science Centre Road, [8]. 10 AM-6 PM Tue-Sun. Set up to promote interest and learning in science and tecnhology through assortment of exhibits. There are more than 850 exhibits in the various exhibition galleries and it is not possible to view all exhibits in one visit. There is also an interesting outdoor display where children can spend their time at. $6/3 adult/child.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

To find out what a sauna full of bugs feel like, go for some steamy jungle hiking. Best times are very early in the morning or in the late afternoon.

• Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Hindhede Drive, [9]. At 166 meters this is Singapore's highest point — if you don't count the city's skyscrapers. It is also one of the last places in Singapore that is home to the original primary tropical rainforest that used to cover the entire island. You can scale the hill in 15 minutes if you follow the paved road (boring) or 45-50 minutes if you do it the long way around (more interesting). Watch out for monkeys! Don´t expect a stunning view from the top, though. Almost nothing can be seen through the thick trees. Take SBS bus 170 or SMRT 67, 75, 171, 173, 184, 852 and 961 to the Courts department store on Upper Bukit Timah Rd and walk. Free.  edit
• MacRitchie Reservoir, Lornie Road (bus 162, 166 from Scotts Rd), ☎ +65-64685736, [10]. Park open sunrise to sunset, Treetop Walk open 9 AM-5 PM Tue-Sun. Rather more exciting than it sounds, this serene artificial lake is surrounded by acres of virgin jungle (and not a few golf courses). On the north side, the HSBC Treetop Walk is a 250-meter bridge suspended as high as 27m above the ground. Trails range from 3 to 11 km, and are of different difficulty levels. One can even hike all the way to Bukit Timah. There is a basic food court at the south entrance, and a ranger station with toilets and water at the 4.5 km mark (near Treetop Walk) on the north side. The park is also a popular haunt of canoeing enthusiasts, joggers and strollers. For history buffs, this was also the site of a Shinto shrine (then called the Syonan Jinja) built by the Japanese during World War II, and the ruins of the shrine, while largely inaccessible without navigational equipment, still survive. Free.  edit
• Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, (Kranji Express bus (hourly) from Kranji MRT), [11]. Daily 7:30 AM-7 PM. If you want to see a mangrove forest, this is your chance. As the reserve is basically a swamp, bring plenty of mosquito repellant and keep an eye out for crocodiles. The nature reserve is a site of international importance for migratory birds. It is also Singapore's first ASEAN heritage park. Free Mon-Fri, $1 Sat-Sun.  edit
• West Coast Park, Parallel to West Coast Highway. Weekdays 10am-6pm, Weekends 10am-8pm. Much less crowded than East Coast Park, with fewer amenities, although you can explore it on pedal-go-kart. The western starting point of the Southern Ridges Walk.  edit

And there are a few things to do that don't involve stomping about in the jungle:

• Delta Sports Complex, 900 Tiong Bahru Road (Redhill MRT), ☎ +65-64719030. 9 AM-8 PM (hours may vary by facility). ClubFITT gym, swimming pool, badminton, hockey and petanque courts.  edit
• Singapore Turf Club (Kranji MRT), 1 Turf Club, ☎ +65-6879 1000, [12]. Host horse races, most commonly on Fridays (starting 6:30 PM) but occasionally on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday as well. Betting is allowed, making this a major draw for local gamblers. The Upper Grandstand is air-conditioned, while the Lower is not. $3/7 Lower/Upper Grandstand.  edit
• Snow City, 21 Jurong Town Hall Road, [13]. 10:30 AM-6:30 PM Tue-Sun. The first permanent indoor snow center in Singapore; interesting enough for residents of the tropics but probably not on the top of the agenda for pallid Europeans escaping their own winter. Sledding, snowboarding and other wintry pursuits, including the inevitable subzero bar. $12/18 for 1/2 hours.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

There is little noteworthy shopping in the north or west. The major shopping malls are Jurong Point (nearest MRT station: Boon Lay) and IMM (nearest MRT station: Jurong East). A stroll around the HDB heartlands may uncover interesting finds, though, not to mention an authentic taste of ordinary Singaporean life.

Tourist attractions such as Singapore Zoological Gardens, Jurong Bird Park and Singapore Botanic Gardens have gift shops overflowing with cute plush toys and tacky local kitsch.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

Hawker food is cheap in the boondocks, and there are a few culinary gems to be found — if you can find them, that is.

• Bao Gong XO Fish Head Bee Hoon, Blk 721 Clementi West St 2 #01-100. This place lets you find out what happens when you add XO cognac to fish soup. Less adventurous souls may want to try sliced fish instead of fish head...  edit
• Joo Siah Bak Kut Teh, Blk 347 Jurong East Ave 1 #01-221 (MRT Chinese Garden). One of Singapore's best-known joints for bak kut teh (lit. "pork bone tea"), a peppery pork rib broth. Two bowls, rice and a serve of mui choy veggies will set you back $9.10; add in $0.50 for some you tiow fritters from the shop next door to dip in your soup. Open from Tuesday to Saturday 8 AM to 8 PM, and to 3 PM only on Sunday.  edit
• Samy's Curry, 25 Dempsey Rd (near Botanical Gardens), ☎ +65-64722080. Daily 11 AM-3 PM, 6-10 PM. An old-school Singapore institution in an open-air colonial building, serving rice and curries on real banana leaves as ceiling fans whir. Waiters walk around with buckets of curry (very cheap) and take orders for tandoori, fish head curry and other treats (which can be more expensive). No air-con, no reservations, no alcohol. $5.  edit
• Thasevi Food, 237/239 Jalan Kayu (5 min walk from Sengkang LRT Thanggam station). The original place for roti prata (Indian-style bread with curry dip), although the size of the portions has shrunk as their fame has grown. Still, most serves clock in at less than $2, and you can sample unorthodox variants like banana prata or ice cream prata, complete with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Try the chicken murtabak and the Indian rojak. Halal.  edit
• Yan Kee Food Stall, Taman Jurong Market & Food Centre #03-137 (MRT Lakeside). A local legend for Chinese-style curry fish head ($14/17 small/large), the gravy is good to the last drop.  edit
• Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa, Blk 120 #01-75, Bukit Merah Lane 1, Alexandra Village. 8.30 AM to 3.30 PM. The best laksa in Singapore according to Makansutra and its many regulars. Expect to wait at least 30 minutes. Order with shrimp instead of cockles if raw shellfish is not your thing. Sold in sizes of $3/$4/$5.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Bollywood Veggies, 100 Neo Tiew Rd (Hourly Kranji Express shuttle or taxi from Kranji MRT), ☎ +65-68985001, [14]. Wed-Sun 9 AM-6 PM. Tucked away in rural Lim Chu Kang, this exuberantly colorful bistro with air-con and alfresco seating draws crowds on weekends with simple local dishes, made from fruits and vegetables grown on their backyard organic farm. The menu changes regularly, but favorites include their nasi lemak (coconut rice), banana curry, desserts like kueh kosui (coconut-brown sugar cake) and home-brewed teas. Kids can romp around the farm, while adults can pick up organic fruits, veggies and herbs to go. All meat is halal, but the restaurant is not certified. $12.  edit
• Canopy Garden Dining, Bishan Park II 1382 Ang Mo Kio Ave 1, ☎ +65-65561533, [15]. Daily 8 AM-10 PM. Tucked away in Bishan Park and best known for serving brunch every day until 5 PM, after which you can move over to the bar and get sozzled on Oz wines. The menu also features soups, salads, pastas and other cafe food. Indoor and outdoor seating with great tropical views. $20.  edit
• Colbar, 9A Whitchurch Road (off Portsdown Rd), ☎ +65-67794859. Tue-Sun 11 AM-10 PM. Stuck in the past and proud of it, this low-key eatery started life as a canteen for British soldiers, and fare like ox liver with peas and chips still figure prominently on the menu. Recently relocated (complete with original building) out of the way of an expressway, but still very popular. Try the famous curries if British grub isn't to your taste, and don't expect any frills like air-con. $10-15.  edit
• Donna Carmela/Caipirinha, 2 Greenwood Ave, ☎ +65-64634206. Noon-3 PM, 6:30-10:30 PM. A family-run Brazilian churrascaria and an Italian restaurant with a vast array of pasta sharing the same premises, offering excellent home cooking in unpretentious surroundings. Their popularity is further cemented by the Italian wines they import direct and sell at retail prices from $25/bottle. Book ahead on weekends. $30.  edit
• Green Room Café, Bishan Park II, 1382 Ang Mo Kio Ave 1, ☎ 6556 1533, [16]. 11am to 10pm daily. Vegetarian cuisine in the quiet green setting of Bishan Park.  edit
• Lim Seng Lee Duck Rice, 38 South Buona Vista Rd. Well-regarded specialist restaurant serving up tender boneless duck with their special sauce; be sure to order some "spare parts", their name for liver and gizzard. Prices above average but worth it. $10-22.  edit
• The Lodge on Flamingo Lake, in Jurong Bird Park. Visitors to the Bird Park may wish to dine here for local food at reasonable prices, coupled with views of nearly 10,000 pink flamingos. $10-20.  edit
• Marina Bistro, 10 Tuas West Drive. In the Raffles Marina at the extreme west of Singapore right next to Second Link bridge to Malaysia, offers very competent Singaporean and Western food. Try the excellent beef satay. Open to non-members for lunch and dinner daily; to get there, take exit 25 from the AYE, immediately before the Tuas checkpoint. $10-15.  edit
• The Olive, Labrador Villa Rd (next to Labrador Secret Tunnels), [17]. Fairly decent pizza and pasta in a very attractive setting in the lush greenery of Labrador Park. $15.  edit
• Zi Yean Food Centre, Block 56 Lengkok Bahru #01-443, ☎ +65-6474-0911. Locally famed outdoor coffee shop serving up Cantonese dishes like mui choy chicken (stuffed with pickled veggies), prawns wrapped in tofu skin and deep-fried, kangkong with century eggs, and abalone with chicken (a steal at $5/plate). Prices generally reasonable but some dishes can be expensive. Open for lunch and dinner, closed alternate Wednesdays.  edit

[edit] Splurge

The Bukit Timah area to the west of the city is one of Singapore's poshest residential districts featuring many high-quality restaurants, particularly in the expatriate enclave of Holland Village [18]. Another good option is Dempsey Hill [19], a convenient cluster of British-era army barracks converted into restaurants for the expat set, just ten minutes from Orchard Rd.

• Beaulieu House Restaurant, 117 Beaulieu Road (Sembawang), ☎ +65 6257-9234, [20]. 11:00am - 2:30pm, 6:00pm - 11:00pm. On Singapore's northern coast, the restaurant is housed in a old colonial-style bungalow that is believed to have been built around 1910, and has sea views towards Johor. Both Western and Chinese food is served. Best reached by taxi.  edit
• Borgo, 789 Bukit Timah Rd (off Sixth Ave), ☎ +65-64467762. Wed-Mon noon-2 PM, 6-10 PM. Small Italian eatery specializing in Tuscan charcoal grills. The pastas are also excellent, but pizzas are mediocre. Reasonably priced and very popular, so book ahead, especially on weekends. $40.  edit
• Brazil Churrascaria, 14-16 Sixth Ave, ☎ +65-64631923. Waiters walk around with meat-laden skewers, just choose and eat. Decent salad buffet for the vegetarian contingent too. Open daily for dinner only. All you can eat $37++ (drinks not included).  edit
• Margarita's, Blk 11 Dempsey Rd #01-19 (branches at East Coast Rd, Faber Drive), ☎ +65-64713228. Popular eatery featuring reasonably authentic Mexican eats like enchiladas with mole poblano (chocolate) sauce and refried beans, washed down with their namesake margaritas. Fills up fast on weekends with expats out to satisfy their Tex-Mex cravings, so book ahead. $40.  edit
• Original Sin, #01-62 Chip Bee Gardens, ☎ +65-64755605. Tue-Sun 11:30 AM-2:30 PM, 6-11 PM. Continues to win awards for its Mediterranean vegetarian food. Lunch $20, dinner $40-.  edit

Another small cluster of upscale restaurants is nestled on the grounds of the Botanic Gardens.

• Au Jardin Les Amis, ☎ +65-64668812, [21]. Part of the "Les Amis" group of restaurants and situated in a restored 1920s residence in the Gardens. The food is mostly French with some other European dishes thrown in and many given a little Asian twist, but given the very high prices the quality is a little wobbly. There is a superb wine list and a very helpful sommelier on hand to answer questions. The views of the garden are gorgeous. Enter through the Corner House Gate and follow signs to Au Jardin/EJH Corner House (the name of the building which houses the restaurant). Reservations recommended. $150-200.  edit
• Casa Verde, ☎ +65 64677326. Daily 7.30 AM-11 PM. Located right at the entrance of the Visitor Centre, offers a mixed menu of local and Italian food at slightly elevated prices, but this is still by far the cheapest and most casual place to eat in the Gardens. The best pick here is the large wood-fired pizzas from $20.  edit
• Chinese Box Restaurant, House 4, 1D Cluny Road, ☎ +65 6219 7877, [22]. Open daily, lunch noon-3 PM, dinner 6-11 PM. Located on the National University of Singapore Bukit Timah campus at the edge of the Gardens in a charming late colonial bungalow. The menu is pan-Chinese, the house special being Beijing duck ($4 per portion or $68 for the whole duck), a northern Chinese dish not often seen in Singapore. All in all, competent but not out of the ordinary, and there's a small price premium for the location.  edit
• Halia Restaurant & Villa Halia, ☎ +65-64766711, [23]. Mon-Fri 11 AM-11 PM, Sat-Sun 9 AM-11 PM. The location in the Ginger Garden of the Botanic Gardens is a reason in itself to visit especially at night, with stunning floodlit views of the surrounding jungle. The food is international with Asian twists, and while consistently excellent comes at a fairly steep price. To get there, enter the Gardens by the Tyersall Ave side entrance and walk a few minutes following the signs. Indoor and outdoor seating available, reservations recommended. $120.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Except for the odd karaoke TV pub, beer at your favorite hawker stall and a few low-key hangouts in expat enclave Holland Village, the north and west of Singapore were long virtually devoid of nightlife. However, since 2006 there has been a veritable boom of colonial black & white bungalows being repurposed into upscale dining and drinking complexes, with areas like Portsdown Rd, Rochester Park and Tanglin Village (Dempsey Rd) now buzzing on weekends.

• Baden-Baden, 42 Lorong Mambong (Holland Village). Mon-Fri 3 PM-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-1 AM. Well known restaurant-pub with German fare. Wood paneling, pork knuckles, German beer and good service.  edit
• Klee, 5B Portsdown Road, #01-04 Wessex Estate, ☎ +65-64796911. Mon-Sat 6 PM-1 AM. A low-key colonial bungalow tucked away in a quiet nook (blink and you'll miss it when driving past), this is a great place for a chilled-out drink with friends. There's no menu, so tell the waiter what you're feeling like, perhaps suggesting an ingredient, and they'll come up with a cocktail just for you, using fresh fruits and herbs. Beware the "Cocktail Nazi" seating arrangements though: you will not be served unless you can snag one of the dozen or so inside seats, with the outdoor terrace allowing wine and beer only. $20.  edit
• One Rochester, 1 Rochester Park, ☎ +65-67730070, [24]. 6 PM to 1 AM daily, breakfast from 9 AM on Sundays. Two-floor bungalow with a well-stocked wine bar, a lush outdoor seating area and DJ playing jazz and funky tunes, visiting this feels like crashing a Singaporean house party. $15.  edit
• Oosh, 22 Dempsey Rd (Tanglin Village), ☎ +65-64750002, [25]. Noon-2:30 PM, 6 PM-1/2 AM weekdays/weekends. Slick complex divided into no less than nine parts set around a garden, options include an air-con wine cellar and a rooftop lookout with views over the jungle. A great place for drinks, especially when the Latin band is playing, but the food here is forgettable; although, unusually for Singapore, the kitchen does stay open late. $15.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

It's not really advisable to stay far from the centre in Singapore, but if you want to try life as the Singaporeans live it, you have one good choice:

• Hostel One66, Block 166 Woodlands Street 13 #01-545 (near Marsiling MRT), [26]. A family-run 12-bed hostel opened in March 2004. Dorms $18, singles $45.  edit