Si Phan Don
Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) is a group of islands in the Mekong River in Southern Laos.
The Four Thousand Islands have three main destinations for travellers：Don （Island) Khong is the biggest, but apart from the usual chill&look there's nothing great to do there. Most people head to Don Det or Don Khon, where accommodation is cheaper, you can walk to one of the big Mekong-Falls by yourself, and biking and walking and swimming in the river is just the same as in Don Khong.
There is a bus from Pakse, that leaves somewhere between 8 and 9 in the morning. Costs around 70,000, sometimes including the boat ticket, sometimes not. Make sure you clear it out with the agent you are buying the ticket from. Take a bus going down Route 13 towards the Cambodian Border, for example from Pakse to Ban Nakasang, and take the river ferry at Ban Nakasang that crosses over to Don Khong and Don Det. As of October 2007 a "Jumbo" from Pakse to Ban Nakasang cost 50000 kips, and a boat from Ban Nakasang to Don Det is 15000 kips per person if there are multiple people going, or 30000 kips for just a single ticket. In comparison joint tickets including a minibus ride from Pakse to Ban Nakasang and a ferry ticket to Don Det cost 65000 kips. Note that the boats are small and shaky and your luggage may get wet so keep things apart that should remain dry.
Coming from Cambodia you can take a van from Kratie ($US15) or Stung Treng ($US12) which includes the boat trip to Don Det or Don Khong. Some guest houses in Kratie may try to sell you the ticket for $US50. The border crossing is in the middle of forest and there is pretty much nothing else there than a few customs officials and a bad road in Laos side. So you definitely want to get a ride all the way to Four Thousand Islands. You may not find any transportation at the border and if you do it's probably a rip-off.
There is a bus from Phnom Penh that leaves in the morning to Don Det. It takes around 7 hours to get there with minimal stops on the VIP bus (once in Kratie and once to stop for lunch). Near the Lao border, an employee of the bus will ask for passports and the fee for the Laos Visa. No need to step out of the us to immigration, the worker takes care of everything. Don Det is another 30 minutes away. Lao Visa is available on the border from July 2012. Most get it for 30 or 35 dollars, but citizens of a few countries have to pay more, oddly for Canadians and UK it is $42.
You can arrive also by boat from Stung Treng. The boats leave in the morning. Many tourists have been made to pay around $US50 after the border for transportation to Four Thousand Islands. So again it's best to book the trip all the way to your destination if possible.
There are a couple of bus options from Siem Reap to Si Phan Don sold by all the major travel agents in Siem Reap market. A large sleeper bus that takes about 13 hours and goes east before heading north to Laos and a smaller VIP minibus option claiming 6 hours for slightly more money. Be warned of the alternative 'VIP' minibus option that promises half the travel time via a new 'super highway' that the larger sleeper bus. This option is pushed by the majority of the agents in Siem Reap as they can charge more for shorter journey time advertised. This is a con with the journey taking the same 13-odd hours to complete via a very roundabout route, unnecessarily changing vehicles countless times with attempted scamming / extra charging at each change. The route ends up near the Laos border where you'll be picked up by the original larger sleeper bus that got there directly for quite a bit less money, and 100% less hassle. A full account of the VIP option is provided here and makes for interesting reading.
Be Careful: Travel agents will give you cash to pay for the boat ride from Ban Nakasang to Don Det. They might only give you as little as 5,000 Kip. The fare is at least 15,000 (depending on the number on people going)
Those of you going to Cambodia can buy bus tickets on all of the islands.
The prices might seem a bit expensive, but this is due to the fact that travelling in Cambodia is more expensive than in Laos.
There are two companies that offer transport to Siem Reap, Kratie or Phnom Penh. The international bus from Pakse to Phnom Penh will take you straight to its destination, without much trouble (departure at Ban Nakasang around 9.45 am arrival at 7.30 pm depending on the weather, costs about $US14), for Siem Reap you change into a less comfortable looking bus somewhere 70km north of Phnom Penh (arrival around 9.30pm). The other company - which tickets are sold everywhere in all the Hostels and Restaurants on Don Det - takes you with a small van or bus to the border, where you change - after another hour or two waiting in the heat - to another bus or Minivan. Later on for Siem reap switch again into bus or van. Those tourists getting stuffed in the minivan at the border had to sit later on in the aisle of the bus on plastic chairs or had to just stand for half an hour. Prices for this trip are generally $US2 less when booking from the border, but definitely not worth the waiting, changing and discomfort. Make sure not to take the regular Tourist Bus. If you don't find this international Bus better choose going back to Pakse and take a Bus from there. Best is propably to take a flight from Pakse.
SCAM ALERT: Some agencies will cheat you and tell you they sell a ticket to the international bus to Cambodia (Phnom Penh Sorya bus company, which provides a comfortable VIP bus through all the way), but when you get to the bus station in Ban Nakasang, the ticket will be switched in the last minute to a "Angkor Paramount Express" ticket, which is the worst way of going to Cambodia (Awfully packed vans and old busses with lots of dust and unnecessary long waits). If you want to be sure, it's better to book at Pakse as said above, or find a way to get an official Sorya ticket at Ban Nakasang.
Ticket price should include the fare of the boat as well. Don't be tempted to buy a ticket going only to the border since it is very hard to get a ride from there.
Buses leave early every morning from across the river. It's about an hour to the border, but that's only the first stage in what's sure to be a long day of travel. After paying a $US1 "stamp tax" on the Laotian side and on the Cambodian side another $US23 for the visa plus $US1 for "processing" (and another $US2 if you forgot the picture). There is also a $US2 health check which is a hassle. Some people are able to skip this as there is no check later on (I just waved them, said "yes, yes" and moved on). There is usually a "VIP" (tourist-minibus) leaving around noon at the border, but better have that organized before, the border is not much more than a street, two barriers and some bored guards in the middle of the jungle. If you want to break your travel, consider stopping at Kratie, which is a nice little city on the Mekong.
If you really want to take the Bus to Cambodia then make sure to split the trip to Siem Reap and to take a rest in Kratie where you will arrive in the early evening. After Kratie the ride in the regular Busses gets worse as they make several stops in the middle of nowhere and drinks and food are very expensive at those stops. You will be switching busses again at approx. 10 p.m. after wating for another hour. Then you get stuffed again into an overfilled Bus where there will be no space left. You will arrive at Siem Reap between 1 and 2 a.m. (!), which makes a travel time of 18 hours and not 12 as claimed on the posters. But if they would claim the 18 hours much less people would propably book this trip.
Realize that time has not much meaning here so leaving the dock at 11 AM means that one goes about 11:30 or when the next boat is full. Some of the boats are better than others, the worse being long canoes. Upon reaching the "mainland", one has to wait with a group of other foreigners for transportation going their way, with the boss squeezing as many people as he possibly can. Leaving Don Det requires patience and a cool head. Give your schedule plenty of time.
It's mostly people power. The islands are small enough that you can walk, although to get to some of the more far-flung destinations a bike will be nice. They can be rented everywhere, typically for 10.000 kip (€ 1) per day. If you're feeling super-lazy, you might convince a local to take you on the back of their bike for a small fee. Bikes and feet are the only ways to see the island. There is one foreign (British) man with a Lao wife and baby son (2012) who would rent a 100cc bike for 90,000 Kip for 24 hours, passport required. The road in Don Det is very rutted and muddy so one should take caution, either on a bike or motorbike. Once one leaves Don Det town, the road is much better and one can ride as fast as one wishes.
A beautiful set of islands, set against a lazy and winding section of the Mekong. Be sure to check out the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia, and have conversations with the friendly locals. Outside of the tourist town, one can get a glimpse of local people, rice farms and plenty of farm animals, especially cows. There are also several temples about of average quality, however, it is interesting to get away from the tourists to see the locals and their life. One must take care to take off one's shoes (important in all of Laos!)
The island is also oddly overran by domestic dogs and cats which roam from place to place looking for scraps and whatnot. Most of these animals are sweet, friendly (and mostly clean) animals who like to be petted and especially fed. One of the foreigners stated that he (and the islanders) would be happy if people took the animals away as pets. However, it may be difficult and expensive to import an animal from Laos to one's own nation, plus the fact that the animal will only speak Laotian and not English.
There isn't much to do in Si Phan Don, but that's not the point. The islands are laid back, with small huts mixing in with guest houses along the banks of the Mekong. But, if you get a bit restless, try these:
Not too much. Stock up in Pakse or if you forgot something look around in Nakasang before boarding the boat to the islands. that is your last chance for forgotten items.There are some items for purchase on the islands, including sunscreen and other items. Don Det also has small markets with other items.
Many travel agents and drivers will tell you there are no ATMs on Si Phan Don and that exchanging money on the islands will only be possible at a very poor rate. This is not true, and is more often than not an attempt to scam you out of money by offering a 'better' rate from them. There is an ATM in Nakasang about 100m up the road from where the boats leave for Don Det. There is also an ATM on Don Khong (photo below). Money can be exchanged at a decent rate on both Don Det (near spot) and Don Khong.
A standard menu of Laotian food and backpacker favorites (banana pancakes, garlic bread, pad thai) are on top at most places. Some try to get fancy with special pizzas and exotic smoothies. It's very hit and miss, but never terrible and the service is friendly. You'd be hard pressed to spend more than $US3 on a meal here.
Eat the Lao food. It is delicious and everything is handmade. The food is very spicy, so if you do not like hot foods, you may try to ask to use less peppers. Try to avoid "western foods" because the quality will be lower. Don't eat the pizza, happy or not.
Beer Lao on the Mekong. Available about every 200 feet on the island, and big bottles for 12,000 Kip. Head toward the west part of the island (where there are only a few guesthouses) for a great view of the sunset.
Fruit Shakes on every menu. About 5000 kip. In most places they switch on the generators for preperation fans and music will work for some minutes.
The Don Det community, like most of Laos, closes down at around 11 PM. There is usually one place that might stay rocking for another hour or so.
In July of 2012, there were two power outages on Don Det, with one outage happening in the evening, during a storm. The outage lasted over 12 hours, which made for a warm evening for sleeping with the noise of the storm.
Drugs such as marijuana and mushrooms are available in Don Det and is somewhat tolerated by some of the patio restaurants by the river and it is not uncommon to have people passing marijuana joints around. However, do not just assume that marijuana is fine anywhere. There are several resident foreigners who can point one in the right direction, and a gentle warning to families with children or anyone who does not condone the use of the drug.
Guest houses galore, at prices that are dirt cheap even by Southeast Asia standards. Most of these guest houses have bungalows situated by the river, and include a mosquito net, double bed and porch. Toilets and showers are mostly shared. There is electric power 24/7. Most options cost about $US3-5 per night.
I recomend "River Garden", situated in Don Det but in a very quiet place, near to the bridge to go to Don Khone. They have very nice bungalows with private toilet and hot shower, and the food they offer at the restaurant was very tasty, don't miss the rice pudding!