From Wikitravel

Shimonoseki (下関) [1] is a port city at the southwestern tip of the main island of Honshu in Japan.

Although it has some areas of interest in Japanese history, Shimonoseki is best known to culinary daredevils as the home of fugu, the potentially lethal and yet utterly irresistible pufferfish.

[edit] Understand

Shimonoseki played a role in three battles that triggered major changes in Japanese history. In 1185, the Battle of Dan-no-ura took place in the Kanmon Straits, ending in a decisive victory for the Minamoto clan; the victory brought the Genpei War to a close, and with it the classical Heian period of Japanese culture. Shortly afterward, a new shogunate was established in Kamakura.

In 1863, another battle thrust Shimonoseki onto the world stage. Fueled by disgust with the terms of the treaty negotiated by the Tokugawa shogunate, which opened Japanese ports to Western nations, warriors of the Choshu domain fought on land and by sea to expel foreigners and block the passage of trade ships through the Kanmon Straits. The Bombardment of Shimonoseki continued for more than a year, until a fleet of warships from Great Britain, the Netherlands, France, and the United States (in the midst of its own civil war) forced the Choshu-han to surrender. The open defiance of the Choshu-han would serve to seriously undermine the Tokugawa shogunate, however, leading to its fall only three years later.

Although the fighting took place elsewhere, the treaty that ended the First Sino-Japanese War in 1895 was signed in Shimonoseki, marking a stage in the ascent of the newly-modernized Japanese Navy — and the nation as a major regional power.

Today, Shimonoseki has a busy international port, with frequent traffic from China and South Korea, among others. It faces Kitakyushu across the Kanmon Straits, one of the world's busiest lanes of maritime shipping.

[edit] Tourist information

• JR Shimonoseki Station, ☎ 083-232-8383. 9AM-7PM.  edit

• JR Shin-Shimonoseki Station, ☎ 083-256-3422. 9AM-7PM.  edit

• Former Akita Company Building, 23-11 Nabe-cho, ☎ 083-231-4141. 9:30AM-5PM.  edit

[edit] Get in

[edit] By train

JR Shimonoseki Station is the next-to-last stop on the JR San'yo Main Line and the last stop on the San'in Main Line. Shin-Shimonoseki, the shinkansen stop, is about seven minutes away by local trains and buses. However, only the all-stops Kodama trains stop at Shin-Shimonoseki, along with three daily Hikari trains in each direction (toward Hakata in the morning, and from Hakata in the evening).

If you're coming from a long distance, the best option is to take a Nozomi or Hikari train to Kokura on Kyushu, and then backtrack to Shimonoseki on the San'yo Main Line via Moji Station in Kitakyushu. By this route, Shimonoseki can be reached by Nozomi in about 5 1/2 hours from Tokyo and 2 1/2 hours from Osaka. However, from Hiroshima or Shin-Yamaguchi, the all-stops Kodama will be fine.

[edit] By bus

The Dream Fukufuku bus runs overnight from Tokyo and Yokohama. From Tokyo, the ride takes 15 1/2 hours and costs ¥13000 each way. Another Fukufuku departs nightly from Osaka Umeda station, running to Shimonoseki in about 10 hours at a cost of ¥9150 each way.

[edit] By ferry

Shimonoseki Port [2] (1-1 Nabe-cho) is a few minutes walk from JR Shimonoseki Station. There are high-speed ferries throughout the day from Moji Port in Kitakyushu.

Daily ferries run by Kampu Ferry [3] (tel. 083-224-3000) connect Shimonoseki to Busan in South Korea. Ferries leave Busan at 8PM and arrive in Shimonoseki at 8AM the next morning, and leave Shimonoseki at 7PM for an 8:30AM arrival in Busan (8AM on Monday). 2nd class one-way tickets cost ¥9000, making this the cheapest way to get from Japan to another country. Arrive a few hours early for visa inspection, though!

There are also twice-weekly ferries to and from Qingdao, China on Orient Ferries [4] (leaves Qingdao M,Th; arrives W,Sa) and one from Suzhou, China on Shanghai Shimonoseki Ferry [5] (leaves Suzho Tu, arrives Th). A 2nd class one-way ticket costs ¥15,000.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By bus

City buses are run by Sanden Kotsu [6], with stops that include JR Shimonoseki Station, Shin-Shimonoseki Station, and the tourist attractions in the port and Chofu areas. When you board, take a ticket from the dispenser; when the bus reaches your destination, compare the number on your ticket to the numbers at the front of the bus, and that will tell you how much to pay. Short trips will be ¥170.

In 2008, Shimonoseki was given one of London's distinctive red double-decker buses as that city phased them out. It now runs along the coast on weekends.

[edit] On foot

Almost all of the attractions in Shimonoseki are reachable on foot along Route 9, which runs parallel to the coastline. The Chofu area is a much longer walk, though.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Port area

• Akama Jingu, 4-1 Amidaiji-cho (Bus to Akama-jingu-mae), ☎ 9AM-5PM. 9AM-5PM. A shrine dedicated to the loser of the Battle of Dan-no-ura, Emperor Antoku of the Heike Clan, whose tomb is on the premises. Aside from the impressive vermillion gate, look for Hoichi Hall and the statue of Mimi nashi Hoichi (Earless Hoichi), who features in a well-known ghost story by Lafcadio Hearn. Free.  edit

• The tiny island of Ganryujima, off the southern coast of Shimonoseki, was the site of an epic samurai duel between Miyamoto Musashi and Sasaki Kojiro, two master swordsmen. Kanko Kisen runs ferries from Karato Pier (ten minutes, ¥1000 round-trip).

• At 268 meters high, Hinoyama naturally offers some good views of the Kanmon Straits. There's a ropeway to the peak of the mountain if you prefer not to hike (¥200/400 one-way/return), and a pleasant park at the top. And since there's not enough in the city below, you'll find a fugu restaurant [7](11AM-9PM) and souvenir shop (9AM-6PM) as well. Buses run directly to the ropeway from JR Shimonoseki Station.

• Kaikyokan Aquarium, 6-1 Arcaport, ☎ 083-228-1100, [8]. 9:30AM-5:30PM. Dolphins, penguins, and sea lions join over 100 varieties of pufferfish, with four floors of exhibits about marine science and shows throughout the day. It's right next to the Kanmon Bridge, and buses run directly there. ¥1800 adults, ¥900 children.  edit

• Kaikyou Yume Tower (海峡ゆめタワー), 3-3-1 Buzenda-cho, ☎ 083-231-5600, [9]. 9:30AM-9:30PM. Standing 153 meters tall, the Kaikyou Yume Tower features an observation deck in the glass sphere at the top, with panoramic views over the city and the Kanmon Straits. Internet access is available at the Yamaguchi International Exchange Association (Tu-Su 10AM-8PM). It's a short walk east from JR Shimonoseki Station. Observation deck ¥600 adults, ¥300 children.  edit

• Near the Kanmon Bridge, there is a marker for the site of the Battle of Dan-no-ura. The Bombardment of Shimonoseki is also commemorated nearby — there are a few replica cannons, positioned at the point where the allied troops came ashore. Now perfectly willing to do trade with foreign barbarians, the cannons will puff out a bit of smoke and a 'boom' in exchange for a few coins.

• Shunpanro Hall, 4-2 Amida-dera, ☎ 083-223-7181, [10]. The Treaty of Shimonoseki, which ended the First Sino-Japanese War, was signed on this site in 1895. There is a small museum (built in 1936) dedicated to the treaty with period furniture and some relics. It's next to an expensive ryokan (see Sleep). Free.  edit

• Sumiyoshi-jinja (住吉神社), 1-11-1 Ichinomiyazumi-kichi, ☎ 083-256-2656, [11]. A complex of shrines dedicated to the Shinto gods of the sea and sailing, with a main hall that has been designated a national treasure. There are displays of ancient scrolls, metalworks, and other relics. It's about a 20 minute walk from Shin-Shimonoseki Station, and can also be reached from the Ichinomiya bus stop.  edit

[edit] Karato area

Meiji-era foreign buildings mix with with modern Japanese ferroconcrete in the Karato area, which is illuminated at night. It's just north of the wharf along Route 9.

• Former Akita Company Building (旧秋田商会ビル Akita Shokai), 23-11 Nabe-cho, ☎ 083-231-4141. 9:30AM-5PM. This European-style building originally housed the offices of a shipping company. There's a particularly nice Japanese garden on the roof; the first floor has sightseeing information and a gift shop.  edit

• Former British Consulate. Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. Built in 1906, with the small Shimonoseki Ijinkan Museum inside and a tea house in the back.  edit

• Nabe-cho Post Office, 22-8 Nabe-cho. Built in 1900, this is the oldest post office still in service in Japan.  edit

[edit] Chofu area

The Mori clan lived in this well-preserved castle town and samurai quarter in the northeastern part of the city, which makes a nice, atmospheric walk at any hour. Buses run from JR Shimonoseki Station to stops for Matsubara and Joka-machi (25 minutes, ¥340). There is a Chofu station on the JR San'yo Main Line, but it's a bit of a walk from there to the attractions.

• Chofu-teien. 9AM-5PM. An elegant Japanese garden built for a chief retainer of the Mori clan, encircled from the outside world by trees and a small mountain. ¥200.  edit

• Chofu Mori Residence. 9AM-5PM. Built in 1903 by the ruling Mori family, this palatial estate and its gardens were deemed worthy of a visit by the Emperor Meiji a few years later. ¥200.  edit

• Iminomiya-jinja (忌宮神社). This modest temple comes alive between August 7-13, when a festival is held in honor of the Emperor Chuhai and Empress Jingu — particularly wild at night. Free.  edit

• Kozan-ji (功山寺), 1 Kawabuchi, ☎ 083-245-0258. 9:30AM-4:30PM. Although it is Japan's oldest zen temple (and a national treasure), founded in 1327, Kozan-ji has been known through the years as a place for warriors to rouse themselves before battle. The Chofu Museum (Tu-Su 9AM-5PM, ¥200) is on the grounds of the temple, with displays about the Meiji Restoration. Free.  edit

• Nogi-jinja (乃木神社). A shrine dedicated to General Nogi Maresuke, a key leader in the First Sino-Japanese War and the Russo-Japanese War. Ashamed by the number of lives lost under his command in the latter, Nogi petitioned the Emperor Meiji for permission to commit seppuku. His petition was denied; the Emperor told Nogi that "if you insist on killing yourself, let it be after I have departed from the world." When the Emperor did depart, seven years later, Nogi was still ready; he committed seppuku shortly after the funeral entourage left the palace. As a result, Nogi came to be seen as a symbol of the end of the samurai code.  edit

• Shimonoseki City Art Museum, 1-1 Kuromon Higashi-machi, ☎ 083-245-4131. Tu-Su 9:30AM-4:30PM. Mostly exhibits of work (paintings and other media) by contemporary Japanese artists, but there are some traveling Western exhibitions and displays of Asian relics as well. ¥200.  edit

• Shimonoseki Municipal Archaeological Museum, 454 Ayaragioka (JR Ayaragi Station), ☎ 083-254-3061, [12]. Tu-Su 9:30AM-5PM. Displays of Kofun and Yayoi-era archaeological finds (as far back as 500 B.C.), including a few outdoor mounds, pit dwellings, and tombs. Free.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Although the Fukuoka Daiei Hawks and the Hiroshima Toyo Carp are geographically closer, many local baseball fans retain a loyalty to the Yokohama BayStars, which began in 1950 as the Shimonoseki-based Taiyo Whales. If you want to impress a native, pick up a blue and white BayStars jersey with "birthplace of the team: Shimonoseki" in Japanese (球団発祥の地 下関) on the back.

• Leaving already? A pedestrian tunnel allows visitors to walk the Kanmon Straits to Moji in about fifteen minutes, with about 780 meters of the walk under the sea. Access to the tunnel is free, 6AM-10PM.

• There are several hot spring resorts in Shimonoseki, but most are well off the tourist track, and will require a car or a long taxi ride to visit. However, the Marine Park Hot Springs [13] are directly next to the Shimonoseki Marine Hotel (see Sleep), just off Route 9 in the Chofu area. There are two floors with indoor and outdoor baths. Admission is ¥1000 adults, ¥500 children; hours are Tu-Su 7AM-9PM, M 3PM-9PM.

[edit] Festivals

• One of Japan's largest fireworks festivals [14] is held over the Kanmon Straits every year on August 13th, with over a million people in attendance and 13,000 hanabi to enjoy.

• The Kaikyo Festival is held annually on May 3rd, with re-enactments of naval battles and other historical intrigues. It's held mostly in the Karato area or Ganryujima.

• The Bakan Festival takes over the city in the last weekend of August, with food and night markets lining the streets between JR Shimonoseki Station and the Karato area, culminating in a group dance.

[edit][add listing] Buy

If you'd like a plush, adorable poisonous fish to bring home, visit the Fukufuku World on the fourth floor of the Kaikyo Yume Tower (see above) for the full line of fugu character goods.

• Green Mall (グリーンモール), 2-chome Takezaki-cho. Because of the many Korean shops and BBQ restaurants gathered here, this stretch of Takezaki-cho and its side streets are often called "Little Busan" or simply "Koreatown". Many stores will even accept South Korean currency.  edit

• Sea Mall (シーモール), 4-4-8 Takezaki-cho, ☎ 083-232-1118, [15]. Hours vary by store. One of the biggest shopping centers in western Japan, with 170 stores including Best Denki and DeoDeo (electronics), Daimaru (department store), and Daiso (¥100 knick-knacks), as well as loads of restaurants. It's right next to JR Shimonoseki Station.  edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

Two fugu fans The Japanese poet Yosa Buson (1716-1783) wrote a famous senryū about forbidden love and the forbidden fish: I cannot see her tonight. I have to give her up So I will eat fugu. Over two centuries later, the American poet Homer Simpson also imparted a profound truth about the fish: no matter how hungry you are, it is wiser to wait until the master chef is done making out with Mrs. Krabappel in the parking lot, instead of pressuring the assistant chef to prepare fugu for you — and spending the next twenty-four hours waiting for your heart to explode. But hey, there's a map to the hospital on the back of the menu...

Even if you don't usually eat seafood, you may want to make an exception for Shimonoseki's most famous dish: fugu (ふぐ). While most fish go quietly into that good night, this little pufferfish packs enough lethal toxins to paralyze every muscle in the human body, leaving the unsuspecting diner to asphyxiate (while fully conscious) and die within fifteen minutes. Oh, and there is no known antidote.

Naturally, then, the Japanese can't get enough of it. To serve fugu, chefs must be specially licensed, which entails several years of apprenticeship and a rigorous exam that sees a 70% failure rate. These steps ensure that fugu fatalities at restaurants are virtually unheard of these days. The city maintains a list of restaurants licensed to serve it [16], although you needn't print that out and check addresses for fear of stumbling across an illicit operation.

The most popular form is fugu sashimi, thinly sliced; chefs may leave trace amounts of the poison in order to cause odd but harmless tingling sensations on the diner's tongue and lips. But it can also be served as part of a salad (yubiki), a stew (fugu-chiri), fried with hot sake (fugu hire-zake), or deep fried (fugu-kara-age). Most restaurants serving the dish will be pricey, but set meals with a bit of fugu can be had near the Kanmon Wharf or Karato Pier for ¥1100 or so.

Some diners are completely underwhelmed by the taste of fugu — not everybody has taste buds capable of enjoying the subtle flavor of mortal peril. But the journey is part of the experience, after all...

The other infamous local specialty is whale (鯨 kujira), which tastes like fishy steak and is served both raw and cooked. Shimonoseki has been the base for some of Japan's controversial whaling expeditions.

[edit] Budget

There are cheap food courts with the likes of Kentucky Fried Chicken and Mr Donut on the fourth floor of Sea Mall (10AM-10PM) and the seventh floor of Daimaru (11AM-9PM). For Korean BBQ, check the Green Mall area.

• Karato Ichiba Fish Market, 5-50 Karato-machi, ☎ 083-231-0001. 4AM-12PM or so. Tons of great, fresh seafood — not just fugu. There are some fabulous sushi bars upstairs and a lawn on the roof to relax on. Get there early in the morning for the best selection of sushi/sashimi on the market floor — buses run from JR Shimonoseki Station beginning at 5:55AM weekdays. Entrance is free; most fish will cost between ¥100-500.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Kanmon Wharf, 6-1 Karato-machi, ☎ 083-228-0330, [17]. Most restaurants 11AM-10PM. There are almost two dozen restaurants and cafes on the first and second floors, with plenty of crab, sushi, and (of course) fugu, but also Korean food and okonomiyaki as well. Prices vary by restaurant.  edit

• Shunraku (旬楽館), 3-10 Karato-cho, ☎ 083-228-2452, [18]. 11AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM. Among the more affordable places for sit-down fugu, with nice mini-sets from ¥3800, and plenty of udon, tempura, and sushi dishes in the ¥2000 range for your friend who thinks you're nuts.  edit

• Taketsubo, 3-3-6 Naka Ueda-cho (Mizukami Building, 1st floor), ☎ 0120-32-9432. 5:30PM-10PM. This small, personable restaurant provides a kettle per table and invites diners to fry some tempura, with various spices on the side for dipping. The owner is a trained sommelier and will be keen to recommend a bottle of wine. Dinner from ¥4000 and up.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Kitagawa (ふく処 喜多川), [19]. 11AM-9PM. A popular fugu restaurant (since 1871) with locations in the Karato area (7-11 Nabe-cho, 083-232-3212) and a bit northeast, off Route 57 (4-9 Akama-cho, 083-232-3211). Lunch from ¥3150, dinner ¥5,250.  edit

• Raku Raku-an (楽楽庵), 4-45 Matsubara-cho, ☎ 083-245-3933, [20]. 11AM-10PM. In the Chofu area, with lovely seasonal gardens. Specialty tofu sets from ¥2940; fugu sets start at ¥5775.  edit

• Shinoda (料亭しのだ), 7-9 Imaura-cho, ☎ 083-222-5267, [21]. 12PM-10PM. Locally-grown fruits and vegetables surround your fugu. The fugu mini kaiseki includes a pretty good amount of food for ¥5000, but if money is not an issue, deluxe sets run as high as ¥28,500.  edit

• Yabure Kabure (やぶれかぶれ), 2-2-5 Maeda Yutaka-cho, ☎ 083-234-3711, [22]. 11AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM. Fugu in the boozing district — look for the big, contented blue & white fugu head out front. Lunch sets from ¥3100; dinner ¥5250-12,600.  edit

• The restaurants for Shimonoseki Marine Hotel and Shunpanro (see Sleep) are also acclaimed for their fugu.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Buzenda-cho (豊前田町) is the local red-light district, packed with karaoke boxes, hostess bars, and restaurants, a short walk east of JR Shimonoseki Station. Bars are also clustered on Hisashi-guchi, near Green Mall.

• Baghdad Cafe, 1-6 Akama-cho, ☎ 083-223-5361. F-W. Quirky, warm and friendly little cafe/bar down near the Kaikyo Straits, with a nice view from the front tables. Named for the movie and run by a fun guy who likes to practice his English. Great coffee and light meals during cafe hours (11AM-5:30PM) and a nice, cozy atmosphere during bar hours (5:30PM-11PM).  edit

• Daimaru, 4-4-10 Takezaki-cho, ☎ 083-232-1111, [23]. Aside from the many restaurants clustered herein, there's a Starbucks (8AM-9PM Su-Th, to 10PM F-Sa) for coffee hounds and a beer garden on the 8th floor rooftop garden (late May to early September, 5:30PM-9PM) with bar food and all-you-can-drink for ¥3300.  edit

• Kanmon Wharf, 6-1 Karato-machi, ☎ 083-229-5641, [24]. 6PM-10PM. Beer garden by the sea, from late April to the end of August. Admission includes plenty of snacks. ¥3800.  edit

• Uomasa Honjin (魚正本陣), 4-20 Akama-cho, ☎ 083-234-0732, [25]. 5PM-11PM. While you're drinking, order a la carte from their menu of sashimi (including fugu and whale), nabe, and various fried items. And if you'd like to mix your poisons, ask for the fugu fin sake.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Although the attractions in Shimonoseki can be covered in a day, there are several cheap business hotels in the station and port area. There are more plentiful accommodations over the water in Fukuoka, though.

[edit] Budget

• Hinoyama Youth Hostel, 3-47 Mimosusogawa-cho, ☎ 083-222-3753, [26]. Dorm rooms with tatami floors, a washer & dryer, and free Internet access. By bus, exit at the Mimosusogawa stop (after passing the Kanmon Bridge) and head uphill. Beds ¥3200; breakfast is ¥630.  edit

• Nishi Washington Hotel Plaza, 1-4-1 Yamato-cho, ☎ 083-261-0410. Clean, Western-style rooms in a business hotel outside the west exit of the station, with Internet access and a shabu shabu restaurant on the premises. Rooms from ¥5800 single, ¥14,000 twin.  edit

• Via Inn, 4-2-33 Takezaki-cho, ☎ 083-222-6111, [27]. A decent business hotel with small, pleasant rooms and internet access. It's just outside the east exit of JR Shimonoseki Station. Rooms from ¥5775 single, ¥10,800 double.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Shimonoseki Grand Hotel, 31-2 Nabe-cho, ☎ 083-231-5000, [28]. A luxury hotel in the Karato area. Most rooms have balconies, and there's a beer garden on the roof. Western-style rooms from ¥9240 single and ¥16,170 double; Japanese-style suites from ¥36,960. City views are about ¥1000 cheaper than sea views.  edit

• Shimonoseki Marine Hotel, 2-1 Sotoura-cho, ☎ 0832-46-3111, [29]. A bit of extra value for being a bit out of the way, in the Chofu area. Nice Japanese-style rooms (and a few Japanese/Western hybrids), and good kaiseki dinners. It's next to the Marine Hot Spring Park, and combined admission is available. Rooms from ¥8000 off-season, ¥10,000 on; most Japanese-style, but a few are Western hybrids.  edit

• Tokyu Inn, 4-4-1 Takezaki-cho, ☎ 083-233-0109, [30]. Local branch of the omnipresent business hotel chain, with nine floors of standard-issue Western-style rooms and a buffet breakfast. Rental PCs are available for ¥1000/night. Rooms from ¥7000 single, ¥14,000 double.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Shunpanro Hotel, 4-2 Amida-dera, ☎ 083-223-7181, [31]. Aside from the historic significance described above, the restaurant of this luxury ryokan was also the first licensed to serve fugu after the ban was lifted. Luxury accommodations with dinner as low as ¥21,000, though usually higher; however, it will still considerably less than what the Chinese paid for their visit.  edit

[edit] Get out

• Kitakyushu on Kyushu is a short train ride from Shimonoseki. It's also reachable via ferry and bridge. There is a tunnel for walkers at the narrowest point across the Kanmon Straits.
• Hagi is one of the most beautiful castle towns in Japan.
• Yamaguchi city is the prefectural capital.

Routes through Shimonoseki

Hakata ← Kokura ←	W  E	→ Asa ← Yamaguchi → Hiroshima
← Moji ←	W  E	→ Ube → Hiroshima

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