Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a city of 400,000 people (urban area), nestled in a valley, mainly within the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but with parts in the Republika Srpska entity.
Sarajevo is one of the most historically interesting and varied cities in Europe. It is a place where the Western & Eastern Roman Empire split; where the people of the Roman Catholic west, Eastern Orthodox east and the Ottoman south, met, lived and warred. It has been both an example of historical turbulence and the clash of civilizations, as well as a beacon of hope for peace and tolerance through multi-cultural integration. Sarajevo is not a huge city - around 400.000 people live in its urban area, but it is very livable, vibrant and busy. The city is historically famous for its traditional religious diversity, with adherents of Islam, Orthodoxy, Catholicism and Judaism coexisting there for centuries.
Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica)
Today, the city has physically recovered from most of the war damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars of 1992-1995. Sarajevo is a cosmopolitan European capital with a unique Eastern twist that is a delight to visit. The people are very friendly, be they Bosniaks, Croats, or Serb. There is very little crime, and the city ranks as one of the safest in South Eastern Europe.
The city is very tourist friendly, especially in the city center.
Four distinct seasons with warm or hot summers and cold winters. Sarajevo is basically on the mountain so winters can be slightly colder here than in other capital cities in the region. You should not be surprised if you see some snow in mid October, but also sometimes in May, although it rarely occurs and stays on the ground for a very short period. Autumn can be cool, but during that period Sarajevo is very foggy and gray with little bit of sunshine.
- Summer - from July to the end of August; temperatures vary, but you can expect hot wave in July or early August (34 to 38 C) that can last for two weeks. Normally temperatures in this seasons are between 25 and 34 C.
- Autumn - already in late August it becomes slightly cooler, but still warm. You can expect real autumn at the begin of October. Sometimes there is some snow in late October and very often in November. Temperatures rarely exceed 23 C around this period.
Autumn in Sarajevo
- Winter - already in November it becomes obviously colder. December, January and February can be particularly cold with temperatures low as -20 C, but normally it stays around -10 to +15 C. Winters can last for a long period in Sarajevo, sometimes even as long as 5 months. Winter in 2011 and 2015 were very cold and snowy for example (-27 C) so do not be surprised.
- Spring - beautiful season, but you can also expect some cold waves in March or even in April. May or June can be the most pleasant months to visit if you are not into cold weather and snow. During this time temperatures can stay around 25 C.
To travel between the airport and the city center:
Bus #200E, costing 2.5KM, provides a direct link to the city center. The bus leaves the airport at 05.30, 11.30, 12.30,13.30, 14.30,15.30, 16.30, 21.30 and 22.30. ** This bus service has been suspended **
Bus #36 is an option if Bus #200E does not suit your schedule. This bus runs between the airport and Nedžarići (1.6 KM), where connections can be made to trams to the city center. Bus #36 operates every 30 minutes 06:00-23:00 Mon-Fri, 06:00-08:00 and 14:00-18:00 Sat and 08:00-15:00 Sun.
Trolley Bus #103 is another option if you fancy a walk to the neighbourhood of Dobrinja. The last stop of the bus is at Trg Austrije, which is on the opposite side of the river. Cross the river on foot to reach the city centre.
Private transfer  they can provide you with great service and agreed fixed price in advance.
Taxi fares to/from the airport are surprisingly expensive for the short distance. The company Red Taxi <phone="+387 33 760600"> is recommended as they charge what is listed on the meter, which you can call them on arrival and meet them in the parking lot. The dispatchers usually speak English.
The only international train to Bosnia operates from Croatia. The journey is quite picturesque, and the journey time is comparable to the bus.
There is one daily train between Sarajevo and Zagreb, in each direction. Tickets cost 22 KM one way, 26 KM return. Trains are not air-conditioned, and the toilets aren't great, but otherwise the train is comfortable. Journey times are about 9 hours, but subject to lengthy delays for passport control on both sides of the border with Croatia. A train leaves Zagreb daily at 08:53, arriving in Sarajevo at 18:05. This train continues onto Ploče, arriving there at 22:25.
The return train to Zagreb, via Zenica, Doboj and Banja Luka, departs Sarajevo at 10:46. The train does NOT have a dining car on board, or any other food provision. Be advised to bring supplies beforehand.
There is another train route from Ploče in Croatia to Sarajevo via Mostar. One of the most beautiful and scenic rail routes in Europe, travelling through lakes and mountains with many tunnels and switchbacks.
NOTE in 2015 the train only goes to Čapljina.
Depart Ploče at 06:00, Mostar at 07:58, arriving in Sarajevo at 10:15
Depart Ploče at 17:00, Mostar at 18:38, arriving in Sarajevo at 20:59
Depart Sarajevo at 07:05, Mostar at 09:24, arriving in Ploče at 11:00
Depart Sarajevo at 18:18, Mostar at 20:41, arriving in Ploče at 22:15
Single tickets from Sarajevo to Mostar cost 9.90 KM and returns tickets cost 14.10 KM. Additional trains operate each day to the town of Konjic (about half way between the two cities). Holders of an ISIC student card can get a 30% discount.
Roads in Bosnia are often only a single lane in either direction, and due to the mountainous topography tend to be very windy and speed limits are lower (mostly 80 kmh). Beware of trucks and people dangerously overtaking on any road. There are many tunnels, and you must always drive with your lights ON (day or night). However, in recent years significant modernization has taken place.
Driving in Sarajevo can be very difficult in neighborhoods around the city centre, specially in Old Town where many street are one way. City is normally very busy so pay attention as in any other urban area.
GEA Tours (Sarajevo and Kneza Milosa 65, Belgrade), ☎ +381 11 2686, +381 635 2686, +381 622 2643, +381 840, +381 268 5043 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . Connections by mini-van or private cars between Sarajevo and Belgrade. It is essential to contact them by phone or email prior to departure. Don't be surprised for them to arrive several hours late. Also, they do not speak English and the lady who answers the phone is deaf, so best to have a local with a loud voice call for you.A single journey between Sarajevo and Belgrade costs 25€ and it takes about 5 hours and a half to 6 hours.. edit
On all intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage. This fee of €1 per piece of luggage is paid to the driver upon boarding. Some drivers are rather picky about being paid in exact change in the correct currency (sometimes a local currency, at other instances requesting to be paid in Euros) and sometimes also refuse to be paid in too small coins. So keep some change ready.
This station is located at GPS coordinate 43.858858, 18.396943, right next to the train station, at the end of number 1 tram line that takes you to the old town (1.60 KM).
This bus station serves both domestic and international destinations. It is advisable to buy international tickets in advance since these routes fill up quickly. International tickets can be bought online, at the station, or from the Eurolines office near the cathedral between the old bazaar. Information on bus routes can also be obtained from the tourist information offices.
There are several buses a day to/from Mostar which also stop at Konjic and Jablanica along the way. These leave at 06:00, 07:00, 07:35, 08:00, 08:15, 09:00, 09:30, 10:30, 11:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30 and up to 18:00, and journey time is approximately two and a half hours. Single tickets cost 13.50KM, return tickets are 19KM. There are also buses to Split (7-8 hours) and a daily bus to Dubrovnik which leaves at 07:00 and costs 40-160KN.
There are several buses a day from the main bus station to Banja Luka. These leave at 05:00, 07:55, 09:15, 14:30, 15:30 and 16:30. Journey time is approximately 5 hours.
There is a daily bus to Graz and Vienna, leaving from the main bus station at 08:00, reaching Graz at 19:45 and Vienna around 2 hours later. A one-way ticket costs €44. You will have to pay the driver 2 KM to transport luggage. There are frequent stops on the way, including for food and toilets. Do not rely on these "food stops" as they are basically just shops to buy coffee and you will need local currency to buy anything.
Buses to Tuzla leave from the main bus station approximately every hour every day. The journey takes approximately 3 hours, and costs around 11 KM.
There is a bus every day from Pristina in Kosovo at 18:30 from the main bus station. The bus is listed on the station schedule as travelling to Novi Pazar, Serbia. From there it travels on to Sarajevo. You can buy the ticket to Novi Pazar at the bus station, or from the controller on board the bus for the whole journey. You might have to change buses in Novi Pazar (which is surprisingly hassle-free). The price from Pristina to Novi Pazar is €7, from Novi Pazar to Sarajevo is €15, and payment is possible in Euros or Serbian dinars. The bus arrives in Novi Pazar around midnight, and Sarajevo around 06:00. Make sure you have the proper travel document to enter Serbia (see Kosovo Get in section) as the controller will not issue you tickets without seeing them first! Another possibility is to book a bus to Podgorica in Montenegro, and then travel from there to Pristina.
There is one bus per day from the main station to Belgrade, at 06:00, costing 40KM.
Autobuska stanica Istočno Sarajevo ('Lukavica')
There is also another bus station in Eastern (Serb-dominated) Sarajevo on the outskirts of the city serving the Republika Srpska and destinations in both Serbia and Montenegro. GPS location 43.823681, 18.356529)
To get here, it is probably easiest to book/order a taxi (around 15KM). If using public transport, take 103 or 107 bus/trolleybus, or the 31E, all from Trg Austria and exit at the last station, and ask people how to get to Lukavica bus station (buses and trolleybuses to the city centre depart from a terminal around 200m from where the international buses arrive). Arriving at Istočno Sarajevo Bus Station, continue on the main road, having the bus station on your right - you will see the Dobrinja trolleybus stop to your right. Buy ticktes at the booth. If you need Bosnian currency there is a Visa/Mastercard cash machine (bankomat) in the nearby Tom shopping centre. To get there walk into the opposite direction of the trolleybus stop, having the bus station to your left. The shopping centre is at the next big traffic light. There are 2 cash machines (Unicredit and NLB) outside and you'll find a supermarket inside.
Note that the Lukavica 'Eastern' station is actually to the West of the 'main' bus station, and is basically to the west of most of Sarajevo's suburbs.
The bus ride from Lukavica bus station to Podgorica (35KM) in and Budva (40KM) Montenegro takes 7 hours (35KM) but is an absolutely amazing ride through some wonderful countryside on the route Lukavica-Trnovo-Rataj-Foca-Brod-Hum-Goransko-Niksic-Danilovgrad-Podgorica (sit on the right side of the bus for the best views). Buses leave at 08:15, 09:00, 14:00 and 22:30. Payment in Euro is accepted.
Bus departure times for Lukavica - Belgrade are: 08:00, 09:45, 12:30, 15:00 and 22:00 daily. One way ticket cost 40KM.
From Mostar, hitching a ride through the beautiful mountains up the M-17 road to Sarajevo is quite easy. Make sure you have a sign though and a Bosnian/Croatian/Serbian language phrasebook would be useful. If you have trouble getting out of Mostar, change the sign to Jablanica where traffic will branch of NW to Banja Luka and then hitch on to Sarajevo from Jablanica. Sarajevo is a long thin city so try to get a lift into the centre. If not, get one at least to the tram tracks that go there from the west of the city limits.
An excellent map of Sarajevo is available at bookstores, all of which are located downtown and not open early or late or on holidays. Maps aren't sold in gas stations or other stores. Alternatively, the kiosk next to the Latin Bridge (a.k.a. the Princip Bridge) also sells maps. Lastly, asking Sarajevans for directions is an exercise in futility. People don't know the names of streets a block from the building they've lived in all their lives. However, they won't tell you this, and as a rule will point you in some direction, usually not the right direction. Taxi drivers can't be expected to find anything but the most obvious addresses unless you tell them where to go, in Bosnian. So buy the map before you go to Sarajevo, and when you get there walk around a bit instead of taking taxis. It's a small, beautiful city with many landmarks. Getting lost is next to impossible if you have the map, and maybe a compass.
Alternatively, download and print a free Sarajevo map before you arrive.
Central area is very compact so it is great to explore it on foot. Have in mind that Sarajevo is surrounded by hills and mountains and many neighborhoods (even some in central area) might be demanding for walk, specially if weather is too hot or too cold. Building numbers are more or less consecutive but don't follow the "hundreds" styles of the United States, e.g., 23 Bjestiva street may be blocks from 27 Bjestiva street, specially in the neighborhoods on the hills around.
There are some new, but also some very old trams in Sarajevo. This is the most popular form of public transport in the city and trams are very often overcrowded.
The center of Sarajevo is served by a spinal tram network which makes a counter clockwise loop around the central district. This tram network opened in the mid-1870s and was the first in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Tickets should be purchased in advance from kiosks labeled tisak on the street or from the driver, where they cost slightly more (around 1.80KM). Tickets should be validated upon boarding the vehicle and are valid for a one way trip only. Changing tram or bus means validating a new ticket. A day card valid for unlimited travel on all local public transport in Zone A is available for about 5KM. Please note that inspectors board public transport very frequently: if you can't reach the validator machine because the tram is too crowded, then don't board the tram.
If you wish to tour the city center using the Tram this is highly possible thanks to its cycle route around the city center.This is highly recommended if you don't wish to walk all the pedestrian area and you want to approach from the perimeter and head directly to some sights like the City Hall, Bascarcija, Cathedral, Museum or Latin Bridge. For a complete experience however walking in the main pedestrian street of the old town is highly advisable. As of August 2015 it seems that only line number 3 runs in a frequency of a few minutes all along the network(very convenient) with some infrequent departures of Line 1 spotted leaving the Railway station and following a cycle route with the same ending point. However, if you are planning to head to and from the railway station or the sided Main bus station simply walk until the main cycle line(road parallel the tracks that passes in front of the US Embassy) which is served by tram 3 in order to not waste time for the sporadic passes of Line 1.
If you are planning to visit some neighborhoods not situated along the main boulevard you should use taxi since small buses are not so frequent and sometimes schedule is not respected. The best solution for travelers who are visiting Dobrinja or East Sarajevo is a trolleybus that runs regularly between The Square of Austria (very downtown) and Dobrinja. Trolleybus is very convenient for all visitors that arrive at the East Sarajevo Bus Station.
Please have in mind that tram and bus tickets are not valid for trolleybuses - you will have to buy another ticket and this ticket is valid for a one way trip.
Be careful when taking taxis from the main railway or bus station and the airport. Firstly, drivers are known to charge far more to tourists who have just arrived and do not know the area, so you can easily end up paying at least double of normal price. It is advisable to get an idea of the maximum cost of taxi before you arrive (ask your hostel/hotel) and negotiating the price with the driver in advance. Should there be a problem when you arrive at your destination and the driver suddenly speaks less English, ask at your accommodation for help - they will be used to dealing with this scam. Secondly, the other well-known "taxi scam" operates in Sarajevo, where the unsuspecting tourist will be taken to a more expensive hotel than the one he or she has asked to be taken to, and the driver and receptionist will swear that the new arrival is in fact in the right place. Have a picture of where you are staying ready, or at least be familiar with its appearance. Many accommodation options will offer a pickup from wherever you arrive, and this is usually free or at a very minimal cost.
If you are taking taxi from city centre to the Airport it should cost around 20 KM (10 Euros), plus or minus few KMs. If you are charged much more that this you should complain and refuse to pay that much. Please, feel free to show you are familiar with the prices. Although most taxi drivers are legal and hence registered, some of them take advantage of new tourists who are not familiar with the city. Also, it is not unknown for legal taxi drivers do set irregular prices.
If you still would like to order a taxi, try 033 663 555.
Sarajevo has a brand new bike path from Ilidža to Hrasno neighborhood. Bike lovers will be able to drive along the main avenue from Hrasnica (western suburb) to Skenderija (central area). Bike path (when completed) will run on both sides of the main avenue (along the tram line).
New bike path in Sarajevo along the main boulevard
Be careful when using the current built bike path: some pedestrians are not familiar with these new red paths and they still do not understand this is built only for bike riders. Also, this bike path is one way path on both sides of the main avenue, but some bikers do not pay attention and they use wrong side. Path is well marked, but locals will need little bit of time to understand the purpose of red paths.
There are several free walking tours that that give visitors the chance to see the city from a local's perspective.
Old Town. The cobbled streets, mosques and Oriental style shops at the heart the city are a world away from Europe, and when the call-to-prayer starts, one could be forgiven for thinking that they were actually in the Middle East. You could actually be walking by a Catholic church, Orthodox church and a Synagogue and hear the Islamic call to prayer at the same time.edit
Academy of Fine Arts
The Academy of Fine Arts Obala Maka Dizdara 3 - The building was originally intended to serve as an Evangelical Church, it houses since 1981 the Academy of Fine Arts and a Exhibition Hall. One of the loveliest buildings in Sarajevo.
Latin Bridge. Across the street from this bridge was the location of the 28 June 1914 assassination of Archduke of the Austrian Hungarian empire Franz Ferdinand, the event that sparked the beginning of World War I. A plaque commemorates the event. A memorial to the assassin Gavrilo Princip, his footprints carved in stone and mounted in the sidewalk, used to be here but this was removed during the 1992-1995 War. There is a small museum of Austro-Hungarian rule in Sarajevo and the assassination at the corner (2 KM).edit
Views from Surrounding Hills. Sarajevo's surrounding hills offer fantastic views over the city, but some landmines from the war still exist on some of the hills. To be safe, stick to paved roads and sidewalks and do not walk into fields, grass, or wooded areas. Also be alert for stray (and possibly rabid) dogs when venturing out of the city. The hills also offer a taste of suburban Bosnian life, including some of the surviving wooden mosques from before the war.edit
Yellow Fortress. The small fortress provides a great view of the city. Walk through the war cemetery at the eastern end of the old town. Another way is to follow the river upstream. Where the road forks, take the right fork (the left fork goes into a short tunnel). Follow it past Hotel Sara and up to the fortress.edit
Cemeteries. With white marble grave stones for those who gave their lives at their 20s during the war, these cemeteries are a reminder of the tragedy that the city went through less than two decades ago.edit
Markale Market Place, (It is a big yellow building). Marked the start of NATO intervention and thereby end of the war after a bombing which took the life of some 40 people. Markale was bombed two times, first in Feb 1994 and second in Aug 1995. First is important in terms of casualties and second is important in terms of initiating NATO military intervention. The main entrance is located on Ferhadija and backs onto Mula Mustafe Baseskije (where there is a plaque on the wall with the victims names on it). The street that runs between the two roads is called Gajevo trg.edit
Vrelo Bosne. The beginning of the river Bosna where the water is pure and ice cold. In less than 20 minutes on foot from the city centre, you are out in the countryside, with no suburbs in between: unique for a large city. Here you can walk in a beautiful park, picnic and spend the whole day without ever getting bored. May 01 festival is held here.edit
Morica Han (Morica Inn), Saraci (Old town). The only preserved Ottoman Inn in Sarajevo. The first floor used to contain 43 rooms for travellers, mostly traders, houses nowadays a carpet shop and a traditional restaurant with engravings of Rubaiyat of Umer Khayam, the famous 12th century Persian poet. edit
Sarajevo's museums are in disrepair, due to disputes over which arm of the government is responsible for funding them. However, they are still worth visiting.
Bosnian Historical Museum, (100 m from the Holiday Inn, just past the turn off to the Central Train Station on the left). Closes Saturday and Sunday at 14:00. The moving display on the siege of Sarajevo is a must-see - if you are able to cope with the pictures of the maimed citizens after shelling of markets. Wonder at the photos of an ineffective UN providing armored vehicles citizens could wait behind before risking sniper fire to cross the street. And you will be heartbroken by the pictures drawn by children. 4 KM. edit
National Museum, (in a large classical building across the road from the Holiday Inn, about 2 km west of the old town, take any tram). Closed Mondays.. Currently closed to the public due to funding problems. Static displays of the natural and human history of Bosnia and Herzegovina - including an exhibition of traditional Turkish style homes of Sarajevo prevalent in the nineteenth century, an extensive collection of insects and stuffed mammals and a large geology section with samples from around the world and a number of meteorites.5KM. edit
Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum, (To reach the Tunnel museum in Butmir you can take the tram to the terminus at Ilidža and change there for bus 32 to Butmir. Leave the bus at Butmir, where the bus turns around to go back, near two small graveyards. From there you cross the bridge on your left hand facing the airport into Tuneli Street. A better option could be to catch a taxi from the tram terminal. taxi from the centre city costs ~17 KM one way. Take the #3 tram to the end of the line from the city centre. Then get a taxi to the Tunnel Museum and walk back to the tram station if it's a nice day (takes about half an hour). Alternatively, the tourist office in the city centre and Sarajevo Funky Tours offers Tunnel tours for €12, with transportation to and from the city centre included. After seeing the tunnel, they also take you on a drive through the part of the city that is in the Republika Srpska, which you can't get to via the tram.). Open 7 days a week from 09:00-17:00. This museum houses the tunnel which was used to access the airport area during the siege and ferry supplies into the city. The tunnel itself is in the garden of a house so don't be worried if you think you're headed into suburbia. Tourists can only walk 25m of the original 800m. Museum exhibition materials have no English translation.10 KM. edit
Sarajevo City Museum, (in the Old Town). Newly opened, the museum traces Sarajevo's development from pre-historical times through the Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and modern times. This is a tiny museum but the cost of 2 BAM (year 2011) is worth it. The entire time spent in here will probably be less than half an hour. This is in the centre of the Old Town and an unknown (non-alcoholic) 'traditional drink' is included with the minor price of admission. The centrepiece of the museum is a model of the Old Town.edit
Svrzina kuca (Svrzo house), Glođina ulica 8 (200 m north of the old town). A beautiful old Ottoman house built in the 18th century shows how Svrzo family lived there.3 KM. edit
Sarajevo Art Gallery, (On the third floor of the building south of the Orthodox Cathedral (entrance is down a side street next to the municipal government building, look for the number 8 above the door)). Small but pleasing gallery.5 KM. edit
Mounament to the multiculturalism in Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Serb Orthodox Church in downtown Sarajevo
Stara pravoslavna crkva (Old Orthodox Church), Mula Mustafe Baseskije (Old town). 2 KM. edit
Careva dzamija (Emperor´s Mosque), Obala Isa bega ishakovica. edit
Begova dzamija (Bey's mosque). This medieval Ottoman architecture's pearl is a lovely place to visit. It is opened both to Muslims and non-Muslims,but a visiting woman needs to cover her hair and wear long skirt or dress within the mosque. It is one of the biggest mosques in the region and,for many,the most beautiful one. Bey's mosque is a few hundreds years old and it is the greatest and most important project of the vaquf of a Bey that is buried in the mosque's courtyard.edit
Crkva Sv. Ante (St. Anthony´s Church), Franjevacka. Modern Catholic church with beautiful stained glass windowsedit
Sarajevo Football Club, (Olympic Stadium). It is interesting to follow a match in a stadium which hosted the opening ceremony of 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympic Games peacefully just a few years before war broke out.edit
Sarajevo has countless shops selling burek (meat pie, sold in layers by weight or by piece), ćevapi and pizza stores. Pita (burek, sirnica, krompirusa, tikvenica, zeljanica etc) is a filo type pasty pie generally offered in several varieties - meat (meso), cheese (Bosnian cheese called "young cheese" similar to ricotta and never aged) (sirnica), cheese and spinach (zeljanica), pumpkin (tikvinica), and spicy potato (krompirusa). It is usually served with a traditional yogurt sauce which resembles sour cream. Most Cevapi places do not serve alcohol.
Ago Fast Food Pizzeria, Mula Mustafe Baseskije 17. Good value pizzas, and pancakes for dessert at only 1 KM, which are a boon for the budget travellers with a sweet tooth.edit
Bistro Sami, At the corner of Splitska and Emerika Bluma in Grbavica. Atmospheric local restobar with tasty home-cooked food, populated by skeptical-but-friendly, heavy-drinking, heavy-smoking neighbourhood types. The deep-fried calf brain is as bad as it sounds - everything else is worth trying.edit
Ba.Napoli Pizzeria (Art of Crafting Neapolitan Pizza in Sarajevo), Veliki Curciluk 23, ☎ +387 33 238 580, . Probably the best pizza you will find in Sarajevo. Pure art of crafting Neapolitan pizza in Sarajevo.edit
Bambus, #32, Ferhadija bb 557-190. An amazing jewel of a restaurant in the central shopping district. You have to go down a small staircase and push a button to be buzzed in to the restaurant but once you are there you will be happy you took the time to find it. It is very classy, quiet, clean, English menu and the waiters speak English. Very good food at good prices. The food is cooked with pride and for the prices charged, it really is a good deal.edit
Bosanska Kuca (Bosnian House), Bravadziluk 3, Bascarsija, . Seats inside and out in the heart of the old town with a wide range of traditional Bosnian food at reasonable prices. You can sit outside against the warm wall of the oven if it's chilly.Muckalica, a veal broth, is delicious and good value at €5. edit
Capucino, Grbavica (near river Miljacka in green area.), . Delicious Bosnian meals and the best pasta and pizza in the region.edit
Hacienda, Bazardzani 3, . Stays open late.. Mexican food, cocktails. Large portions with very fresh ingredients and a pleasant atmosphere. DJs are playing House and Techno Music. Comparing to some other similar places, Hacienda is more expensive but still with good atmosphere.8-12KM for a main course. edit
Inat Kuca (House of Spite), Veliki Alifakovac 1, Bascarsija, . An old Turkish house by the river converted to a lovely restaurant selling hearty stew-like meals.edit
Karuzo, Mehmeda Spahe bb, . While it doesn't serve traditional Bosnian food, this restaurant features a vegetarian/fish based menu, with a mostly Italian influence (although sushi is also available). The pasta dishes are also highly recommended. It's a very intimate restaurant seating only 18 at a time, the chef takes your order prepares the food and serves it himself. Do be aware that you probably do need to have a good deal of time to spare - it can take a couple of hours before you leave. edit
Mrkva, . Traditional Bosnian food, a local favorite.edit
Ottoman Kebap House. Turkish restaurant on a side street in the old town. The inner courtyard lets you eat outside while being away from the noise of the street. The staff are friendly, and will cook the food to your desired level of spiciness.Entrees: 7-12 KM; Sargile: 8-10KM, depending on the flavour.. edit
Park Princeva, Iza Hrida br. 7, ☎ +387 61 222 708, . Slightly more expensive than Inat Kuca, also serving Bosnian food. Located on one of the hills of the city, you have a fantastic view, especially around sunset, when you can hear the prayers from the mosques around the valley. Be aware that the prices somewhat reflect the location of the restaurant. You'll also find a better culinary experience in the Old Town.edit
Moja Mala Kuhinja, Tina Ujevića 13 (10:00 - 23:00, closed Sundays), ☎ +387 61 144 741 (email@example.com), . a restaurant owned by Bosnian celebrity Chef Muamer Kurtagic who has hosted cooking shows on national TV stations. The idea is that the whole cooking process is open for public, and customers can enjoy the cooking the food whilst also being educated. There's no menu, you negotiate with the chef, who'll produce you a good meal based on your preference. This makes the restaurant good for vegetarians and vegans, though it's by no means a vegetarian restaurant. Most dishes prepared by the chef are inspired by some of the best restaurant in Germany where he worked for a number of years. The English language version of the web site has incorrect opening hours.edit
Sarajevo Pivara (Brewery), . A large bar and restaurant near the Latin Bridge with lovely atmosphere and professional staff. Serves 'western' food, accompanied by a variety of beers brewed on the premises. Place is more expensive than most of the places in Sarajevo.edit
Sarajevo has a vibrant night life - there are many thematic pubs, bars, clubs and small cafes. The best days to hang out are Thursday (the "student" day), Friday and Saturday. Please have in mind that almost all tea houses, nargila bars and Bosnian fast foods (buregdžinicas, ćevabdžinicas and aščinicas) do not serve alcohol in the old town area.
Connectum/Klub Knjige, Veliki Curciluk 27, ☎ +387 33 574 700, +387 33 574 701, . Part of a bookstore.edit
Opera Bar/Café, B Sarajeva 25 (opposite the city's Opera house), . Fast wifi connection, but the waitstaff are often unfriendly and inattentive. It attracts the acting and musical community among the regulars, though this isn't an exclusive kind of place. A bit smoky.Espresso: 2 KM. edit
Čajdžinica Džirlo, Kovači (Just up Kovači from Baščaršija), . Really cool little teahouse serving dozens of different teas as well as coffee. Hossein is a great host with a great music collection. Little sofas out the front so you can people watch!Bosnian coffee 2KM. edit
Franz & Sophie World of Organic Tea, Petrakijina 6 (The second street behind the Markale marketplace, close to the Music Academy), . Pause and contemplate over your favorite oolong, white, black, green, fruit or herbal tea. Organic, as nature intended. Not dust in bags, but pure leaves. Recommendation and advice by a professional tea sommelier.edit
Central Cafe, Štrosmajerova 1, Bascarsija, . Cocktail bar with great music. Get there early or call to reserve a table. The place is very busy until midnight when people leave to hit the various nightclubs around town. The street is a whole promenade with many other cafes around.edit
Tre Bicchieri Wine Store & Tasting Bar, Cobanija 3, ☎ + 387 33 222654, . Long list of Italian wines. Very cozy and comfortable place. Good music & relaxing atmosphere.edit
Sarajevo Brewery, Franjevačka 15, . was founded in 1864; houses a museum and since 2004 a beer-house/restaurant as a part of its building. There you can eat or just have a beer directly from the brewery.edit
If you arrive late at night, the weather is right and you have a tent with you, you can camp quite undisturbedly in the park next to the Miljacka river. Chances are that there already some more tents put up. Follow the road on the west side of town, stay close to the river and end up around. In summer there is a public toilet. Be aware that this is wild camping, and there is no guard or anything.
It is also easy to find a room in the house of a local.
The Doctor's House Hostel, Pehlivanuša 67, ☎ +387 (0) 62 293 876 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . Boutique hostel managed by a well-traveled American woman in a cozy house on the hillside behind the Sarajevo Cathedral. Dorm beds with privacy curtain, reading light, and charging station from 10€. Free WiFi.edit
Haris Youth Hostel, Vratnik Mejdan 29, ☎ +387 33 23 25 63, . The owner, a young chap named Haris, also owns a tourism agency right near the pigeon square at Kovaci 1 and can take you on tours around the city, annotated with his own personal experiences from the war. Although you must walk uphill for about ten minutes from the main square to get there, it is worth the walk for the beautiful view and hospitable, warm atmosphere.edit
Hostel Franz Ferdinand, Jelića 4 (Walking from the Cathedral to Baščaršija, first turn left is the street where the hostel is, street number 4.), ☎ +387 33 834-625, . checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. Modern accommodation with a flat-screen cable TV and free Wi-Fi access. A shared kitchen and a lounge room are provided. All rooms comprise a wardrobe, some of them including a private and others a shared bathroom with a shower. Free lockers are provided in all units. Laundry and drying service is available at a surcharge. Bike rental service. Breakfast is served daily.10 EUR. edit
Hostel Lucky, Mehmeda Mujezinovića 12, ☎ +387 (0) 62 417 471, . Small hostel in Bistrik neighborhood, just on the other side of the river from Sarajevo's old town. Quiet, homey, clean. Dorms from 10€. Private Room from 24€.edit
Hostel & Guesthouse SA, Hrvatin 15, ☎ Arijan: +387 61 54 89 34 or +387 33 23 88 91 (email@example.com), . Family-run hostel. It has an awesome view of the city. From €10. edit
Hostel City Centre Sarajevo, Saliha Hadzihuseinovica MUVEKITA No. 2/3 (http://www.hcc.ba/sarajevo/en/location.html), ☎ +387 33 203 213 (24h), . checkout: 10:00. Newly renovated and located in the heart of Sarajevo. Very clean and tidy place to stay with kitchen facilities, 2 large living and common rooms, cable TV, free internet and wifi. They have 4,5,6 and 10 bed mixed dorms plus 2,3 and 4 bed private rooms. At 12 April 2012, bed in 10 bed dorm was 12.50 euro. Located between Ferhadija and Zelenih beretki streets.Dorm bed: €15, Dbl room €20. edit
Hostel Ljubičica, (in the Old town, just next to the tram station), . Note that the room offered might be a dormitory located in one of several places - it might be along Mule Mustafa ulica, or else up the hill to the east of town. If you are visiting for the first time, you can make arrangements by phone or online with hostelworld , and also arrange with them to be picked up at the train station, or the two bus stations in the city. Recently refurbished rooms, previous complaints can now be ignored. a traditional style value hostel centrally located. from 10 Euro dorm bed. edit
Hostel Posillipo, Besarina Cikma 5, ☎ +387 62 910546. Staff is very friendly and informative on everything from good restaurants to tales of the nineties conflict.30KM. edit
Hostel/Prenociste Kod Keme, Mali Ćurčiluk 15 (in the heart of Bascarsija), . Single: €15. edit
Pansion Lion, Ulica Bravadziluk 30 (right next to Vijecnica on the Miljacka riverside), . Run by the Mulabdic family, all of whom are extremely polite, nice and helpful. Decorated, comfortable rooms for 15 euro. Bathrooms are newly-built, aplenty, regularly cleaned and always available. Laundry is also available at 5KM per load. Less than a minute's walk from the middle of Old Town. Highly recommended. €15. edit
Pansion Sebilj, Obala Kulina baba between Careve cuprija and Novi most (at the Miljacka riverside), . Most of the staff speaks English fluently. An internet-cafe is downstairs in the same house, a restaurant in the atrium. The restaurants in the Old Town, groceries and a pharmacy are all in walking distance. Dealing with the sleeping areas only - good things: Location, friendly staff, hot water, clean. Bad things: No internet, walls are paper thin - you can hear someone cough (or scream) in the next room easily as well as the loud music from downstairs until about midnight, uncomfortable slat beds. Unisex showers (only 2) and bathroom. No way to lock bathroom or shower area when inside. No laundry service, no kitchen. No lockers for gear.€15. edit
Hotel & Hostel Telal, Abdesthana 27 (A less than 5 minute walk up from the Kovači Square in the old town), ☎ +387 33 532 125 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . Single room 25€, Double room €35, Triple room €45, Four-bed room €55, Apartment (4 beds) €60. Special discounts for groups.. edit
Hotel & Hostel Kan Sarajevo, Brace Begic 35 (''near the bus station), ☎ +387 33 220 531, . Single to quadruple bed- bedrooms as well as apartments. Restaurant on site and personal assistance with sight seeing.From €20.. edit
Motel Jasmin, Kupreska 26 (in the heart of Bascarsija), ☎ 033 71 61 55, . singles, doubles, triples with separate bathrooms and TV; from €15 including breakfast. edit
Hotel Beograd, Vojvode R. Putnika 8, I.Sarajevo (Some 2km away from Sarajevo airport), ☎ +387 57 316 877 (email@example.com), . Hotel based in vicinity of Sarajevo Airport. Single to triple bed rooms, separate bathrooms, regulary cleaning, TV, free WiFi, from €28 for single bed room, including breakfast.edit
Garni Hotel Konak, Mula Mustafe Başeskije 54 (Take the number 1 tram from the train station to Pigeon Square. Follow the tram tracks west for two blocks, and it will be on your left, look for a red and white sign.), ☎ +387 33 476 900 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . Built in 1962 and completely renovated in 2008. Staff are friendly, speak English, and in the off season can be persuaded to negotiate. Hotel amenities include breakfast, Ensuite bathrooms and internet connected computers, while the hostel rooms are double bed privates with satellite television which share a bathroom among three rooms.Single: €50-60; Double: €70-80. edit
Hotel Michele, . The staff is wonderfully nice, breakfast and laundry included and also features private parking with direct elevator access to the room floors and wireless high speed internet.edit
Motel Sokak, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 24 (Just down the road from the old town central square and the tram stop.), ☎ +387 33 570 355 / +387 (0)33 446 344 (email@example.com), . It's small clean, quiet, friendly and comfortable, in an old building but modern inside.Double: €68. edit
Pansion Cobanija, . Private bathrooms and satellite television. The rooms are clean and well-kept, and a continental breakfast is provided.€50. edit
Pansion Skend, (15 minutes walk from the centre), ☎ +387 61 537775, or, for English, +387 91 2523834, . comfortable, large rooms and breakfast available.Single: €35; Double: €50; Triple: €70. edit
Hotel Bristol Sarajevo, Fra Filipa Lastrića 2 (15 minutes by car from airport, 5 min walk to Parliament, 5 min by car or 10 min by tram to the Old Town), ☎ +387 33 705 000 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. Reopened early 2011 after being completely renovated. Great rooms and comfortable beds. Friendly staff, three restaurants. No alcohol served. Held in regard now as one of the best large hotels in the city.Superior Room from BAM 160. edit
Holiday Inn, (5 minute walk the train and bus station, and about 10 minutes' walk from the town centre.), (email@example.com), . Clean, safe, nice private rooms with private bathroom and shower, well-maintained. Friendly staff speaks English. Credit cards accepted. The restaurant on the third floor is great.€118. edit
Hotel Europe, Vladislava Skarića 5 (right next to the old Turkish bazaar, Bezistan), ☎ +387 33 580 570, 580 444 (firstname.lastname@example.org). Built in 1882 right next to medieval ruins, it was recently renovated, elevating it to five-star premier boutique status. Home to many celebrities who come to work or visit the city, such as John Travolta, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. The in-house Viennese Café is great, offering many Central European as well as local specialties.edit
Hotel Central, Ćumurija 8 (right across the popular Strossmayerova pedestrian street), ☎ +387 33 561 800 (email@example.com). One of the oldest hotels in the city historically renowned for its spa, it is now considered one of the prime boutique hotels after its recent renovation. Also the spa is excellent.edit
Radon Plaza, Džemala Bijedića 185 (at the bottom of Avaz tower, next to the BMW showroom), ☎ +387 33 752 900 (firstname.lastname@example.org), . It is named after the last name of its owner, who is also the owner of Avaz newspaper and one of the city's wealthiest people.edit
There are still many minefields and much unexploded ordnance / bombs / explosive remnants of war in the Sarajevo area, and its surrounding suburbs. Never go into damaged buildings (which are extremely common), and always stick to paved surfaces, avoiding the grassy hills that surround the city . Areas that are not cleared are marked by yellow tape or signs, but still not all minefields have been identified (due to the lack of resources and the lack of international help). Paved roads are always safe. Crime against foreigners is no longer as rare as it used to be, though thankfully it remains non-violent or "less-violent" for the most part. (So far, anyway.) As with any country in the former Yugoslavia, don't get into sensitive discussions about politics with people you do not know.
Be aware of pickpockets who usually operate on public transportation vehicles and in the old city. There were a number of violent thefts reported at the abandoned Bobsled track from the Winter Olympic games of 1984 (absolute time frame not given). The area is notorious for drug use among small numbers of local youths so visiting this area in large groups is recommended if you must visit it at all.
Be careful when you cross the street - drivers tend to speed and very often they do not show any respect for pedestrians. The same thing goes for pedestrians - very often they do not respect rules and often they cross the street in a wrong place, specially around tram stations where you cannot easily see somebody crossing the street. There have been numerous incidents around tram stations with pedestrians being involved, some of them with serious injuries or even death.
DO NOT park you car in Kulina bana street next to the Drvenija bridge - this parking spot has been known for thefts and windows braking and tourists are victims quite often. You should park you car either in the BBI Center parking lot or in Sarajevo City Center parking lot. Also, if you are lucky you will be able to find a spot by the National Theatre - this parking lot is safe, too.
There are approximately 11,000 known errant dogs in Sarajevo - a mix of wild ones, ferals, and strays. Estimates range from 12,000 to 20,000+ total. They roam in packs and sometimes posture aggressively without any apparent reason, surrounding you and barking. Typically they will back down if you shout at them and move as though you are going to attack, though naturally this can backfire. Unhappily, the alternatives to counterposturing/counterattacking are 1) actually getting bitten (some of the time) and 2) having them follow you interminably, barking at the top of their lungs the whole time (some other of the time). It is illegal to carry batons, for example, and reports vary on whether pepper spray / dog spray is legal or not. But no one can tell you you cannot have a cane, an umbrella, or a walking stick... The dog problem is aggravated because it is illegal for anyone to kill the dogs, but there is not enough aid in terms of sterilising or sheltering them. Also, well-meaning people often feed them and provide improvised roadside shelter, which only encourages them to be bolder in their "acquisition" of "territory" from humans.
If you see people fighting on the street or in nightclubs, etcetera, do not physically involve yourself. Maintain a safe distance and call the police (112 for emergency, 122 for police, 124 for ambulance).
If you see beggars on the streets (specially Romani kids) we do not suggest you to give any money - most beggars are part of a well organized groups so at the end these beggars have to give all money to the "heads" of these groups.
Also, there is a guy at the main bus station asking for 1 KM saying he needs only that amount to buy a ticket. The problem is he is saying this to all passengers he meets in the hall. This is just another scam so we suggest you to simply ignore this person.
A final point on health and safety is that the air in Sarajevo can be noticeably thick with pollution during the colder months, so that asthmatics or those with other chest problems may find themselves short of breath a lot of the time, particularly at night. Please do ensure you have ample medication, just in case.
Respect the war history. Many people you will meet lived in Sarajevo during siege and they have many stories to share about that period.
Also, respect religious diversity. Although the city has the Bosniak/Muslim majority today, most people are very secular and they are very proud of diverse religious architecture in the city. Do not assume somebody is Muslim just because she or he has the "Muslim" name - or, do not assume somebody is not Muslim just because she or he drinks alcohol. People here tend to observe religion in a very unique way. Finally, there are many mixed marriages and very often those people do not want to be observed as Bosniaks, Serbs or Croats.
If you are visiting East Sarajevo (part of the city with Serb majority) show respect for their war stories. Although East and "Federal" Sarajevo form a single urban area, they are officially two cities with separated administrations. Most people do not have any problems today to visit other part of the city, but there are still some minor tensions.
Most Bosnians (regardless of ethnicity) are extremely warm and friendly so if somebody invites you for a drink or meal it would be nice to accept the invitation.
Do not expect everyone speaks English - most young and educated Bosnians will not have any problems with English, but older generations can hardly speak any foreign language. If you speak German that can also help since many young Bosnians are fluent.
This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!