Sangkhlaburi
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Sangkhlaburi (สังขละบุรี) is an area in the north-west of Kanchanaburi Province, close to Myanmar.
[edit] Understand
Sangkhlaburi is an idyllic place and well worth visiting as it is off the tourist trail and thus great for the tourist who wants to see "real Thailand" (whatever that is:)). The place is well known to Thais who come here for relaxing weekends away, or alternatively parties on the floating houses. But violence is not unknown here and the market area in the centre of town is probably best not explored after it closes. There can also be clashes between Mon and Thai youth on the bridge area.
Wangka (also known as Monside) on the other side of the Bridge is well worth visiting. Watch out for the street dogs (pick up a stone and it should scare them off). The village was founded by Luang Phor Uttama in 1949 after he fled Burma with 60 other Mon Families. Uttama passed away in 2006 and since then, the village has been in mourning. Alcohol is not permitted to be drunk in public and doing so would be hugely disrespectful. This only applies to the Wangka, not Sangkhla. Many of the villagers speak Mon as their first language, so don't be surprised if they cannot understand your Thai. If you eat at a Mon restaurant, an easy word to remember is "Dangoon" for "thank you".
[edit] Get in
Buses go direct from Mo Chit station in Krung Thayp (Bangkok) to Sangkhlaburi. The first ones leave at around five o clock and pass through Kanchanaburi on the way. There are also many buses/minibuses leaving from Kanchanburi Bus Station. The trip takes around 5-6 hours and can be up to 7-8 from Bangkok. Tour agencies in the Mae nam Kwai tourist area of Kanchanaburi may also be able to help you get to Sanghkhlaburi by minibus.
Red buses pass through Nam Tok (along main road near terminating station for train from Kanchanaburi) every 30 minutes. The fare to Sangkhla is 100 baht.
Incredible scenery from along road around reservoir, well worth the 'slow' bus
To Kanchanaburi:
- 1st class air-con bus: 08:45, 10:45, 14:30 - 4.5hrs, 180 baht
- non-aircon bus: 06:45, 08:15, 09:45/10:15, 13:15 - 5hrs, 110 baht
- minibus (departs from ticketshop at far end of road running from the bus station past the 7-Eleven and the market): 06:00, 06:40, 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:30, 10:20, 11:10, 11:40, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 - 3hrs, 146 baht (B175 in Sept 2009; not every scheduled minibus actually runs; if full, charge may apply for luggage)
- car: 3 hours, keep your tank full as gas and diesel are more expensive near the border.
The last bus/minibus for Bangkok leaves the bus station at 13:30, the last for Kanchanaburi at 4 pm.
[edit] Get around
Green pickups depart hourly from bus station to Three Pagodas Pass and charge 30 baht (B50) for the 30-40 minutes trip. A good option for a group is to hire a songthaew for a few hours and visit Sawanbandan cave and other attractions as well.
The most common way to get around town is motorcycle taxi. It costs 15 baht from the centre of town to the wooden bridge (Saphan-Mon). Walking is a rewarding option. Across the bridge and out to the Wats on the Mon village side of the lake is an easy half-day hike.
You can also rent motorbike or bicycle available at P Guesthouse
[edit][add listing] See
- Wat Wang Wiwekaram and Chedi Buddhakhaya - Walk over the bridge to the Mon village, and bear left parallel to the lake. After 2km the concrete road forks. Left goes to the huge golden chedi, with a small Burmese goods market below it, and right goes to the main Wat Wang Wiwekaram. The Wat was built by the late Phara Uttama, who was one of the most important Monks in Thailand, and is still highly revered in the Mon community. There is a large, ornate viharn at the main wat, and in another building there are murals depicting stages of the Buddha's last, and previous, lives. You may wish to hire a taxi as, for some, it might be a long walk to the temple, and it is easy to get lost in Wangka village (although people are happy to point you in the right direction).
- Saphan Mon - The 400m wooden bridge itself is well worth a visit and is the longest handmade wooden bridge in Thailand. There is a small cafe on one end which is a great spot for a drink and a view. Be careful when crossing the bridge though, it is made and repaired in a chaotic manner and you need to be careful of your footing. There are donation boxes at either end which pay for the bridges constant upkeep. So consider donating, as you will receive an amazing photo in return! Local kids like to jump off bridge into lake...
- Wat Saam Prasob (The Sunken Temple) - When the water level of the lake is low (usually after winter) you can hire a boat to take you (or hire a canoe from P Guesthouse to paddle yourself out) to see the Sunken temple. The sunken wat is the last remaining vestige of the old town flooded for the creation of Khao Laem Reservoir. (Top 1-2 metres of temple is in view in September.)
[edit][add listing] Do
- Visit Three Pagodas Pass and the border market (and, if the border's open, cross over to Payathonzu, on the Myanmar side of the border). The road out to Three Pagodas Pass passes a side-road to a waterfall. To reach the waterfall, you must walk through the jungle and cross rivers, sometimes by swimming (at least in the rainy season). There is another side-road to Wang Bandan cave.
- Stroll around town, go for a swim in the lake, relax, enjoy the sunrises and sunsets.
- Join an organised trek into the surrounding jungle (P Guesthouse offers good-value one-day treks by longboat, elephant and bamboo raft).
- Visit Baan Unrak Children's Home for their Wednesday night dinner and yoga show (contact Baan Unrak Bakery for time and directions). Make a generous donation. Volunteer opportunities may be available.
- Franky's Jungle Trekking, ☎ 087 0590148, [1]. Unique jungle trekking experiences in the national parks surrounding Sangklaburi. Anything from a 1 day trek to a 6 day 5 night trek to Umphang. Franky's jungle trekking are real trekking trough real jungle for real travellers! No other tourists to be seen visiting traditional remote Karen villages. 600b / day. edit
[edit][add listing] Buy
- Weaving for Women [2] - Textiles are sold by displaced ethnic refugees at a small shop about 200 metres down the hill from the post office. The shop is run by Daisy Dwe, who fled Burma and has settled in Sangkhlaburi to help other refugees. Excellent products for a great cause. These are also sold at the restaurant/internet cafe/bakery signed 'Baan Un Rak' about 150 metres past Soi 1 at the bottom of the hill on the main road.
- Baan Unrak Weaving, (About 100 metres past Soi 1 at the bottom of the hill on the main road), [3]. 8am - 8pm. Quality hand-crafted, ethical clothing & accessories are sold here. Part of the NGO Baan Unrak Children's Village, the weaving and sewing centre provides economic development and job opportunities for single mothers on the border of Myanmar. 100% of the profits go towards supporting the Baan Unrak mission; to provide a loving and stable home for disadvantaged women and children in the community. edit
[edit][add listing] Eat
- Town market - if you wake up early enough, catch the early morning stalls selling Thai and Burmese breakfast snacks. At midday the market winds down but there are plenty of stalls selling cheap and tasty Thai food at the top of the hill, opposite the bus station, providing cheap food most days, but reportedly not open at weekends.
- Burmese Inn - About 800m down the hill on the right-hand side down Soi 1. A simple menu with reasonable prices, but a good standard of Western, Thai and Burmese food.
- Jimmy's House - Run by 'Big Jimmy' Opposite the temple on the Thai side of the bridge 50 meters further on than Burmese Inn. Good selection of delicious Western, Burmese & Thai food. Also sells & trades books. A great source of local information.
- Wangka Village - there are countless cafes and restaurants in the Mon village. "Guuteeoh" noodle soup is a popular local dish.
- P Guest House - good menu of local and foreign dishes, reasonably priced (B50-80 for main meals). Head south from Post Office past Temple and Baan Unrak Bakery. Exquisite view across lake to chedi. Recommended for a sunset dinner.
- Toy's restuarant-affordable price for Thai food with a friendly owner "Aoom" (the price start from 25THB)
[edit][add listing] Drink
There are no obvious Western-style bars. Though you can do as the Thais do and order a bottle of whisky, a bucket of ice and some soda from one of the local restaurants. Beer from the local supermarkets is 42 baht for a large Chang. A selection of wines from Kanchanaburi is available from 260 baht for a bottle with white and two varieties of red available.
You can also head to P. Guesthouse to enjoy a farang atmosphere. P Guesthouse is very popular with Bangkok urbanites taking a short break from the city. An exquisite view across the lake. Especially recommended for a sunset drink.
- Western Bar(Garden Home) - Approx 700m from the bus station, down the hill on the right hand side. They have many cocktails and Thai beer. They also offer soft beverages and food. The place is kept very clean and also has a landscaped outside sitting area. This place is new but already proves popular with farangs.
- graph cafe'. Coffee,Sandwich and dessert edit
[edit][add listing] Sleep
There are a few guest houses around 2 km from the city centre (around 10 baht by motorbike taxi). Be especially careful with the tap water, since it is possibly derived from a lake.
- Burmese Inn - Approx 800m from the bus station, down the hill on the right hand side on Soi 1. They have rooms at 400 baht (double,TV, fan, private bathroom), then more expensive with air-con up to 800 baht.
- Birdland Books, 13/1, ☎ 086-8016738. Just a little further up from the Burmese Inn on LHS of the road, These rooms start from 100 baht per night with share bathroom. Ask 'Big Jimmy' a US Expat of 30 years for the best advice of activities & sights in the area. They also sometimes have motorbikes for rent. Facilities are basic but the service is excellent and friendly edit
Heading south from the Post Office past the High School, Temple and Baan Unrak Bakery:
- Potanee Resort The rooms are around 1,200 baht with air con, en suite bathroom and a lovely view of the reservoir. A dubious breakfast is included in the price.
- Grandma's Homestay, next to the bakery and opposite Wat Si temple..., ☎ +66879770687. Very basic, but a lovely, warm, family atmousphere and the hub of life for passing tourists and volunteers. Has own laundry service and little shop... basic room in a self contained appartment with one other room. Has a Thai toilet and hot shower- 150bht per night.. edit
- P Guesthouse - Reasonable rates, great food, friendly staff and good-value fun tours. The internet is a little expensive at 40 baht/hour, unless you have your own laptop, but overall a very pleasant place to stay. 250 baht for double, fan and shared bathroom. B900 for air-con double with ensuite. B1300 for trek (longboat, elephant and raft) plus one night's accommodation.
- Phornpailin Riverside Resort - Go another 500 meters past P Guesthouse to find this riverside resort. Rooms from 1,000 baht. All rooms include air-con, hot water, cable TV, and minibar. The property also has 24-hour security. Big restaurant on site with large menu.
- Baan Unrak Guesthouse, Baan Unrak Children's Home 99-1 Moo 1 Nonglu Sangklaburi, Kanchanaburi 71240 (Ask for directions at the Bakery (bottom of the hill on the main road) or take a moto-taxi.), ☎ +66 034 595428, [4]. Peacefully perched in the hilltops, this spacious guesthouse boasts magnificent views from its large balcony; overlooking rolling hills and the lake. The accommodation comprises a bedroom, living area, bathroom and kitchen complete with refrigerator (a rare find here!). Most importantly, 100% of the profits go towards supporting the Baan Unrak mission; to provide a loving and stable home for disadvantaged women and children in the community. edit
- Haiko guesthouse - Japanese style room for 650THB for hot shower,double bed,fan
[edit] Get out
You can go on to Three Pagodas Pass or back to Kanchanaburi.
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