From Wikitravel

Civic Center-Tenderloin is an area of Downtown San Francisco. As the name implies, the Civic Center is the primary center of government within the city and many important institutions are housed here. Aside from its official duties, it also functions as a cultural center with many fine museums, theaters, opera houses and symphony halls located here. Over the years it has developed a reputation for attracting many of the city's drug-addicted and homeless to its open plazas. The Tenderlion is one of San Francisco's lowest income neighborhoods. It has a rich history and eclectic community but unfortunately it also has a reputation for poverty, drugs and crime (particularly violent street crime). The Civic Center-Tenderloin area is bounded roughly by Market Street to the southeast, Mason Street to the east, Franklin Street to the west, and Sutter Street to the north.

[edit] Understand

[edit] Civic Center

The Civic Center is on Van Ness Avenue, north of its intersection with Market Street. The city began developing the area in 1913, and most of the buildings there are of a 'Classical Style', with their development being heavily influenced by the 'City Beautiful Movement'. Most of the city's integral governmental institutions are located here, like City Hall, which dominates the Civic Center with it's impressive 'Beaux-Arts' style dome. There are two main plazas in the area; Civic Center Plaza and United Nations Palza. The Civic Center Plaza (in front of City Hall) has been a popular place for holding rallies, protests and festivals. As well as being a hub for local government, it's also home to many cultural institutions such as The War Memorial Opera House, the Asian Art Museum, the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, Davies Symphony Hall and the War Memorial Veterans building with the Herbst Theater. The U.N. charter was signed in Herbst Theater in 1945. There is also a popular farmers market held twice weekly in United Nations Palza.

[edit] Tenderloin

Many guidebooks will tell you to avoid a large part of downtown, roughly bounded by Geary, Polk, Taylor and Market--the Tenderloin. It's true that this 'bad neighborhood' is rife with panhandlers and massage parlors, but it's also full of good, cheap ethnic restaurants and colorful dive bars. The area is lively and safe until about 2AM (when the bars close); after that, it does get sketchy, and is best avoided by travelers walking alone.

The name 'Tenderloin' comes from the overall shape of the area's boundaries: triangular, like the cross-section of a tenderloin steak. According to a different explanation the area was originally called 'The tenderloin' by the police officers, since they were paid more to work there, the most notorious part of the town. The three corners may be delineated by Market and Larkin to the south, Geary and Larkin to the northwest, and Market by Geary to the northeast; this is the definition used by the Tenderloin Police District. Tenderloin Police District (PDF map)

Although it has a reputation as one of the tougher parts of town, in reality the Tenderloin is quite variegated and can change drastically from block to block. Much of the area on the east side of Mason (above O'Farrell) is high-rent and more properly considered part of downtown Union Square. The western area around Hyde and Larkin streets, especially from Eddy to O'Farrell, is a colorful Vietnamese neighborhood known as 'Little Saigon'. O'Farrell, Geary, and Post, especially the blocks west of Jones, are part of the so-called 'Tendernob' or 'Tenderloin Heights' bordering Nob Hill; sometimes this definition also includes southern Nob Hill as far north as California or Sacramento (especially the western blocks around Polk). The Tendernob (at least on the Loin side) is considered a nightlife hotspot by some folks who like their drinking milieu a bit rough around the edges. It connects with Polk Street on the western edge of the Tenderloin. Known variously as Polk Gulch, Polk Village, or the Outer Tenderloin, this is a very lively district populated with all types of restaurants, cafes, bars, venues, bookstores, and other shops.

Turk and Taylor might be considered the heart of the 'true' Tenderloin; the sidewalks teem at all hours with the homeless, people openly selling crack or heroin, derelicts, hustlers, and the mentally ill. There are many adult bookstores and theaters in this area, along with a few high-culture theaters and galleries attracted by the low rents and proximity to downtown. This area spills directly into Mission Street on the other side of Market; Mission between 8th and 5th street may be considered part of this truly seedy 'core Tenderloin' area. These parts of the Tenderloin are perhaps the most dangerous areas in San Francisco, with the exception of Hunter's Point and possibly a few areas in the Mission (such as Mission between 16th & 17th).

Finally the northern blocks of Jones and Taylor are sometimes called the 'Tandoor-loin' because of the high concentration of excellent and affordable Indian restaurants.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By car

Directions for driving to the Civic Center are marked on the freeways. Once inside the City limits, two main arteries serve the the area - Van Ness Avenue and Market Street.

There are several garages, as the Performing Arts Garage at Grove and Gough, an underground garage under the Civic Center Plaza (entrance on McAllister), open from 6AM to Midnight, or 24-hour valet parking at Opera Plaza on Turk just off Van Ness Avenue. Where the freway was prior to 1989 earthquake (between Grove at Gough and Turk at Franklin) there are several smaller open air lots, that will charge about $10 for all day or $6 for an evening. Those lots are gradually being displaced by new construction. Street parking in the Tenderloin is extremely difficult to find, but parking garages are plentiful.

[edit] By BART

BART [1] runs under Market Street with two stops in the area: Both the Powell and Civic Center BART stations will put you well within walking distance of any Tenderloin attraction. The most convenient BART stop for the Civic Center is the Civic Center/United Nations Plaza.

[edit] By MUNI

The neighborhood is well-served by public transit, provided by MUNI [2] in the form of the Metro system, the F-Line streetcar and various bus lines. MUNI Metro lines J, K,L, M and N serve the Powell/Market and Civic Center stations under Market Street along with the BART line. The MUNI Metro also serves the Van Ness/Market station, which is part of the same subway tunnel but is not shared with BART.

The historic F streetcar line (regular $1.50 Muni fare, $0.50 for seniors) runs on Market Street between Castro Street and the Ferry Building (where it turns north on The Embarcadero to Fisherman's Wharf), passing by both the Civic Center and the Tenderloin.

From the CalTrain station the #47 bus takes you to along the western border of the area (Van Ness Avenue) to City Hall. Other MUNI bus lines serving the area are: 49 Van Ness, 9 San Bruno, 31 Balboa, 5 Fulton, 19 Polk, 21 Hayes and 38 Geary.

[edit] On foot

Given that the area is centrally located downtown, it is extremely accessible on foot. From the SoMa area walk northbound on anywhere from Sixth to Eleventh Street. Market street forms its southern boundary and makes the area easily accessible from either the east (Union Square-Financial District) or west (The Castro), and from the north (Nob Hill-Russian Hill) it's just a 10-20 minute walk directly due south.

[edit] Get around

As this is a relatively small area, the best way to get around is on foot. To help you navigate around there is a Visitor Information Center [3] located at 900 Market Street on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza, next door to the cable car turntable at Powell and Market streets. The V.I.C. is open Monday through Friday 9AM-5PM, Sa, Su, and holidays 9AM-3PM, PST. Telephone inquiries may be made M-F from 8:30AM to 5PM PST, by calling +1 415-391-2000 or +1 415-392-0328.

[edit][add listing] See

[edit] Museums and galleries

• Asian Art Museum, 200 Larkin Street, ☎ +1 415 581-3500 (pr@asianart.org, fax: +1 415 581-4700), [4]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM, with extended evening hours every Th until 9PM. The museum is closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day.. Built in 1917, and formerly the old library building, this building is a fantastic blend of beaux arts and modern design elements. It was designed by renowned architect Gae Aulenti (architect of the Musée d'Orsay, Paris). Inside, you'll find many interesting architectural details including the grand staircase, loggia, vaulted ceilings, the great hall, stone floors and inscriptions. The museum is one of the largest and newest museums of Oriental art. It has circa 15,000 artifacts spanning 6,000 years of history. The Asian Art Museum hosts many special exhibits as well. Admission is free on the first Sunday of every month: Adults: $12, Seniors 65 and older with ID: $8, College students with ID and youths ages 13 through 17: $7, Children 12 and under and SFUSD students with ID: Free, Thursdays evenings - at a reduced rate ($5) after 5PM.  edit

• San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Avenue (at McAllister), ☎ +1 415 554-6080 (fax: +1 415 554-6093), [5]. The Gallery at 401 Van Ness: W-Sa 12AM-5PM, The Window Site at 155 Grove St: Daily, 24 hours, Art at City Hall: M-F 8AM-8PM. The San Francisco Arts Commission Gallery supports a diverse range of Bay area Visual Art by supporting artists projects through collaboration with community organisations, commissioning works and curated exhibitions. They also have window installations at 155 Grove Street and City Hall. edit

• The Art Institute of California-San Francisco, 1170 Market Street, ☎ +1 415 /865-0198. Hold public exhibitions in the fields of design, media arts, and fashion. Check their website for a schedule. edit

• Linc Art Gallery, 1632C Market St., ☎ +1 415 503-1981 (hope@lincart.com), [6]. Tu-Sa 12PM-6PM. Lincart hosts fine contemporary art, design and lifestyle branding. Since its inception in 2000, it has exhibited over 50 shows, most of which were solo exhibitions from artists like Yayoi Kusama, Graham Gillmore, Tucker Nichols, and Pip Culbert. edit

• Luggage Store Gallery, 1007 Market Street (at 6th Street), ☎ +1 415 255-5971, [7]. W-Sa 12PM-5PM. They organize exhibitions, performing arts events, arts education and public art programs in order to encourage and facilitate the flow of artistic ideas between the different socio-economic groupings in society. edit

• San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Ave, 4th Floor, ☎ +1 415 255-4800, [8]. Library Hours: W-F 11AM-5PM, Sa 1PM-5PM; Exhibition Hours: Tu-F 11AM-5PM; Sa 1PM-5PM.. The Museum is the first international arts institution dedicated exclusively to the celebration of the performing arts and theatrical design. Its stated aim is to educate people of all ages about the importance of the Performing Atrs in their lives. To this end, it hosts exhibitions and lectures by and about leading artists. Free admission.  edit

[edit] Architecture

The Civic Center with its 'Classical' architecture was declared a national landmark in 1978. It has several buildings that are of architectural interest including the Asian Art Museum listed under Museums and galleries above.

• War Memorial of San Francisco, ☎ +1 415 552-8338. This comprises the War Memorial Opera House, Memorial Court and the War Memorial Veterans Building. The Opera house was designed in 1932 by Arthur Brown, Jr., who was also the architect of City Hall. The Veterans Building was also completed in 1932 and is home to the 916-seat, proscenium stage Herbst Theatre. It also houses the Green Room, which is a classically styled, 3,100 square foot reception hall. Tours are scheduled every Monday (except holidays) everyy hour from 10AM to 2PM. All tours leave from the Grove Street entrance of Davies Symphony Hall. edit

• City Hall. Designed by two Parrisian architects and opened in 1915, City Hall was built in the Renaissance style. It was heavily influenced by the 'City Beautiful Movement' of the time. Its 'Beaux-Arts' dome (the fifth largest in the world) was modelled on that of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. The building itself is huge, 393 feet long by 273 feet wide and 307 feet high - occupying a full two blocks of San Francisco. Inside it features a large rotunda with a grandiose staircase leading up to the second floor. In 1954 Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe wed here. Brouchers are available for visitors and you can take a self-guided tour Monday through Friday, between 8am-5pm. There are also docent lead tours M–F 10AM, 12AM, 2PM. edit

• The Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, 99 Grove Street (between Dr Carlton B Goodlett Pl & Larkin St), ☎ +1 415 974-4060, [9]. This four storey tall, Beaux-Arts style building occupies an entire city block. edit

• Federal Office Building, 50 United Nations Plaza. Completed in 1936, the D-shaped Beaux Arts building was designed by architect Arthur Brown Jr., who also designed City Hall and several other Civic Center landmarks. It's a six storey building with ans has a 24,000-square-foot interior courtyard. Constructed between 1934 and 1936, it was the last building to be completed in the seven-building complex of the Civic Center. edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Heart of the City Farmer’s Market (on the United Nations Plaza (just north of Market St.) between Hyde and Leavenworth). Su 7AM-5PM, We 7AM-5:30PM. The farmer's market held Sundays and Wednesdays offers a less expensive alternative to the yuppie Ferry Building Farmer's Market, though it helps if you're seeking the ingredients for Asian food. On other days, there are often tents with vendors selling jewelry, scarves, clothing, snacks, housewares, and who-knows-what. The fun is in the surprises. Free.  edit

• St. Boniface, 133 Golden Gate Avenue (just off Jones), ☎ +1 415 863-7515 (stbonifacesf@aol.com, fax: +1 415 863-7602), [10]. The Catholic church features its original elaborately decorated interior from 1900, so why not come in and say a prayer! A Franciscan parish, it is also known for allowing the homeless to sleep in the pews on weekdays. Free.  edit

• Glide Memorial Church, 330 Ellis St., ☎ +1 415 674-6000, [11]. Famous for its gospel music, as well as for its inner-city missions. Sunday services are a major music event. Free.  edit

• San Francisco City Guides, Main Library, 100 Larkin Street, ☎ +1 415 557-4266, [12]. They offer walking tours of the Civic Center free of charge. The tours are offered all year round - seven days a week. The tours highlight the history, architecture, culture and folklore of the area. Free.  edit

[edit] Performing arts

The Civic Center is the center of opera, ballet, symphony, and theater in the city. Even if one hasn't bought a ticket in advance, there are often returned tickets available at the box offices before a performance. Most performances are at 8PM, Sundays at 7PM, with matinees Saturdays 2PM. The symphony is trying an experiment, advancing Friday evening performances to 6PM, so that you can have still a leisurely dinner afterwards.

• San Francisco Opera, War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue, ☎ +1 415 864-3330 (fax: +1 415 626-1729), [13]. There is a Fall, Spring, and Summer season. The summer season focuses on lighter and popular operas. In December and late spring the Opera House is used by the San Francisco Ballet. edit

• San Francisco Ballet, War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Avenue, ☎ +1 415 861-5600 (sfbmail@sfballet.info), [14]. The repertory season begins in January and continues through May. Performances are in the Opera House on Van Ness Avenue. edit

• San Francisco Symphony, Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Avenue (at Grove Street and Van Ness Avenue), ☎ +1 415 864-6000, [15]. San Francisco has an excellent Symphony orchestra, with Michael Tilson Thomas (MTT) as the principal conductor. The Season goes from September to April, with a a break in the middle of December and January. When the San Francisco Symphony is on tour, other orchestras visit to fill the void. In July there is a 'Summer in the City' program of light music; August is quiet. edit

• Herbst Theater, War Memorial Veterans Building, 401 Van Ness Avenue (at McAllister), ☎ +1 415 392-4400, [16]. Herbst Theater, next to the Opera house in the similarily-styled War Memorial Veteran's building is host to a wide variety of activities. One can find plays, readings by well-known authors, chamber music, Jazz performances, etc throughout the year. The monthly Friday evening talks of the Long-now Foundation [17], projecting the far future, are presented in Herbst or in the Fort Mason Center. edit

• The New Conservatory Theatre Center, 25 Van Ness Avenue (half a block from Market Street and the Van Ness MUNI station), ☎ +1 415 861-8972 (boxoffice@nctcsf.org), [18]. The three small New Conservatory theaters present novel, musical, comic, and educational plays. Performances are typically W-Sa and Su 2PM, all year. edit

• The Orpheum Theater, 1192 Market Street (at McAllister, on the east side of the Civic Center), ☎ +1 415 512-7770, [19]. Focuses on Broadway shows. edit

• Golden Gate Theater, 1 Taylor Street (one block north in the triangle formed by Golden Gate, Market and Taylor streets), ☎ +1 415 551-2000, [20]. Focuses on Broadway shows. edit

• The Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, 99 Grove Street (between Dr Carlton B Goodlett Pl & Larkin St), ☎ +1 415 974-4060, [21]. Large and small bands, and exhibits, appear at the Civic Auditorium. Check ticketmaster to see what's playing [22]. edit

• The Great American Music Hall, 859 O'Farrell Street, ☎ +1 415 885-0750 (booking@gamh.com), [23]. GAMH is located a few blocks north of the Civic Center, into the Tenderloin district, on O'Farrell just off Polk. (It is not associated with the Mitchell brother's O'Farrell theater next door, which features erotic shows.) GAMH, in operation since 1907, has performances most evenings by a wide variety of bands, vocalists, and other performers. edit

[edit] Events and festivals

• In The Street Theater Festival, 500 Block of Ellis Street, ☎ +1 415 255-5971 (iaro@aol.com), [24]. 200 artists and performers descend on Ellis Street every year. Among others things it features circus arts, puppets, music, and improvisational theater. It is produced by an organisation called The Luggage store, whose stated mission is to broaden social networks between different cultural and economic communities. edit

• Gay Pride Parade (Along Market Street from Beale to 8th), ☎ +1-(415) 864-3733 (info@sfpride.org, fax: +1-(415) 864-5889), [25]. Sunday, June 29, 2008, 10-14h (approx). San Francisco's annual "Gay Pride Parade" long ago grew into a multi-day "Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender Pride Celebration" (see below). The parade itself features over a hundred contingents, and takes over four hours from start to finish. Hundreds of thousands of people line the parade route to watch. If you want a good spot, arrive two hours before the 10AM start, and set up closer to Beale Street than the Civic Center. Be careful about climbing on bus shelters, scaffolding, or light poles to get a better view: people do fall and injure themselves. The only thing better than watching the parade is marching in it. If you can make contact in advance, you likely can find some contingent with affinity which will welcome you. Free.  edit

• San Francisco Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender Pride Celebration (All streets between Van Ness, Market, Golden Gate Ave., and Hayes Street), ☎ +1-(415) 864-3733 (info@sfpride.org, fax: +1-(415) 864-5889), [26]. Final weekend in June only (June 28-29, 2008): Saturday 12-18h, Sunday 12-19h.. ("San Francisco Pride" for short.) One of the largest gay pride festivals in North America, a huge, happy, chaotic celebration of diversity, politics, sexuality, and San Francisco wackiness. Some seven city blocks between City Hall and Market street are closed to vehicles, and about a dozen stages and spaces offer everything from square dancing to hip-hop, from a family garden to Leather Alley. Hundreds of businesses, community groups, non-profits, and political groups attempt to connect with hundreds of thousands of celebrants. It's a movement, it's a market, it's a party. Car and bus traffic is interrupted during the celebration, and parking is even worse than usual; take BART or Muni trains (which run underground, and put on extra cars to carry the load) instead. Both parade and celebration are for everyone — straight as well as gay are welcome. Free, donations encouraged.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

Unlike its glamorous neighbors, Union Square-Financial District, this area does not have much in the way of shopping opportunities. There are very few chain stores here, and this has probably got more to do with socio-economic reasons than anything else. They do however have a varied collection of smaller esoteric stores.

• San Francisco Art Exchange, 458 Geary Street, ☎ +1 415 4418840 (info@sfae.com), [27]. Su-W 10AM-6PM, Th-Sa 9AM-10PM. This is a gallery for those interested in rock paintings and photographs, and they also sport a large Beatles collection and paintings by Ronnie Wood. A must for music enthusiasts, if you can catch it when its open. Very recommended. Prices are high, with most pieces over $1,000 dollars.  edit

• Kayo Books, 814 Post St, ☎ +1 415 749-0554 (kayo@kayobooks.com), [28]. "Specializing in Vintage Paperbacks from the 1940s to 1970s and esoteric books of all persuasions" They have a large stock of rare and out of print books, many of which are of the lurid and sleazy persuasion. edit

• Napa Valley Winery Exchange, 415 Taylor Street (between Geary St & Ofarrell St), ☎ +1 415 771-2887 (wine@nvwe.com), [29]. M-Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 10AM-5PM. Wine store featuring hard to get and small production wines.  edit

• Shooting Gallery, 839 Larkin St. (between Geary St & Myrtle St), ☎ +1 415 931-8035, [30]. Tu-Sa 12PM-7PM. Accessible and real art gallery, featuring the latest 'Low Brow' art-school/gutter-punk art. edit

• Karma Culture, 682 Geary Street (between Jones St & Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 674-9600. A small family owned Thai store that foucuses on womens apparel and gifts. Reasonable prices and friendly staff - you usually get to pick a free gift on the way out...like a small purse, incense or a candle. edit

• Space Gallery, 1141 Polk Street (between Hemlock St & Sutter St), ☎ +1 415 377-3325 (info@spacegallerysf.com), [31]. M-Sa 4PM-2AM. Two storey art gallery that has a full bar serveing wine, beer and cocktails. They even serve 40oz Olde English Malt Liquor! edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

Given the sometimes grittiness of the area - much of the food is very affordable. Vietnamese, Thai, and Indian restaurants are well represented in the Tenderloin. One of the best options for a cheap lunch is picking up a "Vietnamese sandwich" from any of a number of corner delis in the area (they're packed especially thick along Larkin). For about $2.50 you can expect to get a generous helping of your choice of meat and shredded vegetables sandwiched into a quarter of a baguette and dressed with a thin, tangy sweet and sour sauce. Be sure to bring cash, as these places don't take any credit cards. For visitors to the Civic Center area, many excellent eating places are just west and south of the Civic Center, around Hayes street. Seating is easier around 8 pm, when opera and symphony patrons depart. On Hayes Street itself is a wide-ranging variety of restaurants. We don't list the ubiquitous and ever-changing Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Mexican, and Italian restaurants. Some unusual ones, arranged roughly by price are:

[edit] Budget

• Dottie's True Blue Cafe, 522 Jones St, ☎ +1 415 885-2767. 7:30AM-3PM. Top-rated breakfast cafe in the Tenderloin and a top contender in San Francisco proper. Affordable with friendly service, comfortable, intimate atmosphere and excellent food. Arrive 30 minutes early to stand in line with all the other admirers. $3-$12.  edit

• Bang San, 505 Jones St (between Geary St & Ofarrell St), ☎ +1 415 440-2610, [32]. Mon-Wed, Sun 11:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m; Thu-Sat 11AM-2AM. This tiny hole-in-the-wall serves up some of the best darn Thai food this side of the Mekong River. They have 12 categories of dishes from which to choose. Sit down, order, and watch as delicious food is cooked before your eyes. $5-$8.  edit

• Chutney, 511 Jones St, ☎ +1 415 931-5541. Daily 12AM-12AM. Affordable and excellent selection of authentic Indian food. Speedy service and filling portions, and free chai tea for all customers. A recent addition and a neighborhood favorite. $5-$8.  edit

• Golden Era Vegetarian Restaurant, 572 O'Farrell St, ☎ +1 415 673-3136, [33]. Wed-Mon 11AM-9PM (closed Tu). This pleasant, quiet restaurant specializes in the sort of seitan-based, faux-meat concoctions that will make a hardcore carnivore happy, and may make a lifelong vegetarian feel a bit squeamish. Nonetheless, the vegetarian "lamb" claypot is something to try. Everything can be served vegan upon request. $5.50-$9.25.  edit

• Joey's Laundry, 517 O'Farrell St. 6AM-9PM. What is a laundry doing under "Eat"? Joey's serves Mitchell's Ice Cream, widely recognized as the best in the Bay Area. If you're bored with chocolate, strawberry, and vanilla, try the green tea or macapuno ice creams. For the launderer seeking more solid sustenance -- or if you get hungry while using their internet access -- there are breakfast pastries, pizza slices, and coffee. edit

• Mela Tandoori Kitchen, 417 O'Farrell St, ☎ +1 415 447-4041 (melakaraja@hotmail.com/), [34]. M-F 10AM-11PM, Sa 11AM-9PM. The jewel-like atmosphere, complete with marble floors and a tiled fountain, is the real draw at this inexpensive Indian restaurant. Candles, drapes, wall sconces and ululating music make for a charming setting. The food itself isn't quite as scintillating, but you do get your money's worth. $5.95-$11.95.  edit

• Moulin Rouge Breakfast Cafe, 887 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 928-0158. M-Sa 7AM-2PM, Su 7:30AM-2PM. If you can't stomach the line (or the hipster clientele) at Dottie's, the Moulin Rouge Breakfast Cafe around the corner on Geary offers solid grub at much cheaper prices. The elderly couple who run the place are always friendly and never hurry you, and the shabby faux-French decor is weirdly charming despite liberal amounts of duct tape holding the place together. edit

• New Golden Gate Cafe, 280 Golden Gate Ave, ☎ +1 415 931-3928. Daily 6AM-3PM. Travelers on a budget would do well to mark this shabby, yet reasonably clean, establishment, because you won't find cheaper. Two eggs, coffee, toast and hash browns go for exactly $2.53. The daily lunch specials are always $3.90. Everything is dished up out of a steam table, but it tastes good and will fill you up. If you're there on a Wednesday, you're in luck; that's meatloaf day. $2.53-$5.96.  edit

• Old Chelsea, 932 Larkin St, ☎ +1 415 474-5015. Daily 4PM-11PM. As well as supplying fish-and-chip orders for the Edinburgh Castle bar around the corner, the Old Chelsea offers take-out. You want to take your order out, as seating is limited to two somewhat sticky tables, and the air is hot with grease. The fish justifies the trip. $6-$10.  edit

• Olympic Flames Cafe, 555 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 885-0984. Daily 6AM-4PM. Spacious, affordable and home-cooked breakfast joint. Excellent omelettes. A viable alternative of Dottie's True Blue Cafe has a line out the door (which it almost certainly always does). $4.50-$8.50.  edit

• Pakwan, 501 O'Farrell St, ☎ +1 415 255-2440. Daily 12AM-11PM. Pakistani food features curries, tandoori fish, and piping hot naan. Unlike some of the local eateries in the "tandoori-loin," the seating is clean, comfortable, and fairly new (possibly the results of some other restaurant's going-out-of-business sale). The restaurant tends to be comparatively quiet, as well as offering an excellent view of police actions on Jones. $6-$10.  edit

• Shalimar, 532 Jones St, ☎ +1 415 928-0333, [35]. 12PM-3PM/5PM-11:30PM. Northern Indian/Pakistani, they have a tandoor (clay oven) which means excellent naan (flat breads) and murgh boti (barbecue chicken). The curries and rice pilaf are also worth checking out for their unique combination of spices. $3-$10.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Kim Thanh, 607 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 928-6627. M-F 11AM-11PM, Sa-Su 5PM-11PM. Check out the aquariums in the window if you want to know what's for dinner. If you've never seen a geoduck, you will not soon forget it. $7-$12.  edit

• Original Joe's, 144 Taylor St, ☎ +1 415 775-4877. Daily 10:30AM-1:30AM. Joe's is a local institution, a Rat Pack dream of an Italian restaurant. The after-hours haunt of the theatrical and musical set in the 1950s and 1960s, Joe's fortunes fell with those of the surrounding neighborhood, and it's considerably frayed at the cuffs now. But the owner and staff maintain dignity through adversity -- all the waiters wear tuxedos and are delightfully polite and thoughtful -- and the tasty food in generous portions is probably the best meal you can find after midnight in SF, bar none. Reasonable prices, great service, oh-so-cool atmosphere -- don't miss Joe's if you can. $10-$15 (''$4 well drinks'').  edit

• Kyoto Sushi, 1233 Van Ness Ave (at Post), ☎ +1 415 351-1234. M-Th 11AM-10:30PM, F 11AM-11PM, Sa 11:30AM-11PM, Su 4:30PM-10:30PM. With the multitude of sushi places it is hard to say which is best, but this one rates at the top for taste, freshness, and authenticity. edit

• Vietnam II, 701 Larkin St, ☎ +1 415 885-1274. Daily 9AM-11PM. At any number of eateries around the 'Loin, you can order pho, the Vietnamese beef and noodle soup that's correctly written with some curly bits over the "o," and correctly pronounced somewhere between "phuh" and "phah." It will always cost about five dollars; it will always come with your choice of meat (slices of rare beef, well-done brisket, tripe, tendon, and meatballs are the most common) simmering in a clear, pungent broth along with a tangle of thin rice noodles; it will always be accompanied by a heap of mung bean sprouts, leafy basil and mint stalks, lime wedges, and slices of chili pepper; and it will always be served in bowls ranging from merely large to mind-bogglingly enormous. But only at Vietnam II will you enjoy your pho while gazing upon an indoor koi pond, and browsing through a vast menu of other delicacies. Everything from deep fried quail to pig intestine porridge is available to the adventurous, along with Chinese standards like lo mein and fried rice. $4.95 (''pho'')-$16.95 (''fresh lobster'').  edit

[edit] Splurge

• La Jardiniere, 300 Grove St (at Grove and Franklin), ☎ +1 415 861-5555 (tracey@jardiniere.com), [36]. Dinner: Su-W 5PM-10:30PM, Th-Sa 5PM-11:30PM, hours are extended to accommodate neighborhood performances. French food in American style, quite pricey, great decor, appetizers, deserts, mixed reviews on entrees. $50 and over.  edit

• Canto do Brazil, 41 Franklin St (at Oak), ☎ +1 415 626-8727. M-Sa 11AM-3PM, Su-Th 5PM-9PM, F-Sa 5PM-10PM. Traditional Brazlian food, very affordable, but mixed reviews on service. Dinner $14-$21.  edit

• Bistro Clovis, 1596 (Franklin and Page), ☎ +1 415 864-0231. Lunch: Tu-F 11:30AM-2:30PM Dinner: Tu-Sa 5:30PM-10PM, Closed Su-M. Delivers a authentic feeling inside and outside with the historic streetcars clanking on Market street. Affordable, friendly service. Dinner $18-$25.  edit

• Max's Opera Cafe, 601 Van Ness Ave (Golden Gate Avenue - in Opera Plaza), ☎ +1 415 771-7300. Su-Tu 11:30AM-10PM, W 11:30AM-11PM, Th-Sa 11:30AM-11:30PM. The California version of a New York deli. Dinner $15-$25.  edit

• California Culinary Academy, 625 Polk St (at Turk), ☎ +1 415 771-3500. (icano@caculinary.edu), [37]. Lunch Dinner: Sa-M closed, Tu 11:30AM-1PM, 6PM-8PM, W 11:30AM-1PM 6PM-8PM, Th 11:30AM-1PM 6PM-8PM, Fr 11:30AM-1PM 6PM-8PM. Dining in the Careme room allows you to see what goes into your Cordon Bleu dinner. Requires reservations. The Grill serves simple dishes, prepared by the fresh[wo]men class. $31-$50.  edit

• Maharani, 1122 Post St (between van Ness and Polk), ☎ +1 415 775-1988 (info@maharanirestaurant.com), [38]. Have great Indian food, including a romantic rear hideout. $8-$22.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

• Edinburgh Castle, 950 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 885-4074. Daily 5PM-2AM. Expatriates from the British Isles are often to be found at this Scottish pub. The interior is warm and shadowy, a comfortable place of dark wood and golden lantern light, and the beer selection is good; you can get pints of Belhaven or Newcastle as well as the ubiquitous Guinness, and it's all available by the pitcher. The Edinburgh Castle also has a relationship with a local fish and chips fryery, so you can order from their menu and have it delivered to you at the pub. The jukebox is well stocked with punk rock, Irish folk/rock, and American roots music, and live bands also play regularly (which can unfortunately make it impossible to carry on a conversation). A trivia contest is held on Tuesday nights. And on Burns Night (January 25th), the Edinburgh Castle is the place to be, with ribald poetry readings, music, and a public haggis. edit

• The Gangway, 841 Larkin St. Daily 6AM-2PM. This nautically-themed dive bar is home to a group of chatty regulars, mostly gay middle-aged men, who are friendly to newcomers of any age, gender, or sexual orientation. Many of them have lived in San Francisco for decades, and they have great stories. $2.50 domestic beer, $3.50 well drinks.  edit

• Hanaro, 939 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 928-4066. Just across from the Edinburgh Castle is a shadowy hole-in-the-wall festooned with Korean lettering: Hanaro. Though the bar is wallpapered with "No Smoking" signs (as California law demands), you need only loiter outside the bar for a few minutes with a cigarette before you are beckoned inside and offered an ashtray. In fact, Hanaro's great charm is it that it's accommodating in every respect; stay for a bit and you will be offered various bar snacks, and there is usually a hostess on hand whose only job is to chat with the patrons. This is done, however, with taste and tact; if you wish to drink in silence, you won't be disturbed. The jukebox is stocked with Asian pop singles. edit

• Lush Lounge, 1092 Post St, ☎ +1 415 771-2022, [39]. Daily 4PM-2AM. This brightly appointed, fashionable cocktail lounge is adorned with witty quotations from the likes of Dorothy Parker, and sometimes features live piano music courtesy of Spencer DaySpencer Day. The clientele is diverse, but skews towards young, hip gay men, tourists, and girls from Pacific Heights who come down in the hill in groups to "slum" around the 'Loin. The specials of the day are usually cheap, sweet, and highly alcoholic. edit

• Arrow Bar, 10 6th St, ☎ +1 415 255-7920. Friday night brings out the darker side of the hipster crowd where local DJs spin a mix of trendy 80s, hip-hop, house, and anything else that gets your body moving music at this relatively small and dark lounge. Expect crazy hair styles, black clothes, and some fun people. edit

• The Owl Tree, 601 Post St (between Taylor St and Trader Vic Aly), ☎ +1 415 776-9344, [40]. A small, quiet bar that's great for conversation and relaxation after a long day of wandering around San Francisco. The name of the bar gives a clue to its unusual decor: the entire place is adorned with owl memorabilia. edit

• Olive, 743 Larkin St, ☎ +1 415 776-9814, [41]. Stylish coctail bar in the Tenderloin. It has reasonably priced drinks and food in an informal yet trendy atmosphere. edit

[edit] Entertainment

• Great American Music Hall, 859 O'Farrell St, ☎ +1 415 885-0750 (info@gamh.com), [42]. Reputed to be the city's oldest nightclub, this ornate venue presents hip music acts, some well-known among the cognoscenti, some so cutting edge that there's blood on the pavement. In the 1930s, this was fan-dancer Sally Rand's "Music Box."  edit

• Mitchell Brothers O'Farrell Theater, 895 O'Farrell St, [43]. Tourists have flocked here for live, nude girls and dirty movies since 1971, when porn star Marilyn Chambers followed her performance in a Mitchell Brothers' film by becoming an Ivory Snow model. The venue is large, clean, and the biggest rip-off in adult entertainment this side of Paris. $40 gets you in the door, and the girls demand large tips for anything more. Avoid this over-priced, over-hyped tourist trap for the Crazy Horse on Market (next to the Warfield) or any of the clubs on Broadway in North Beach. edit

• Aunt Charlie's Lounge, 133 Turk St, ☎ +1 415 441-2922, [44]. Cheap, stiff drinks. Endearing, (and this 'hood) harmless and vocal co-drinkers provide fantastic people-watching. Popular with gay, lesbian, straight, TS. edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

Many 'hotels' in the Tenderloin do their major business as single-room occupancy (S.R.O.) lodgings for permanent residents, many of whom live from welfare check to welfare check. These hotels also rent rooms to frightened-looking tourists lured by bargain rates "just off Union Square." Both the rates and the location are true: the management merely neglected to mention the urine-stained mattresses or the drunk lurching in the lobby. Use caution: if a rate seems too good to be true, it probably is. There are more normal hotels in the area as well, ranging from large chains (Hilton) to tiny boutique hotels with fashionable decor and chi-chi prices. If you plan to park a car, scrutinize the hotel listing for parking information. Free parking is not a given, and at peak times, even paid garages overflow onto the sidewalks. There are several backpacker's hostels in this area, particularly on Taylor Street.

[edit] Budget

• Hostelling International-City Center, 685 Ellis St (at Larkin St), ☎ +1 415 474-5721 (fax: +1 415 776-0775), [45]. Clean, cheap, safe, fun. The hostel has 75 beds in total: some are 4 or 5 bed dorms and others private rooms. All rooms have their own private bathroom. They have a free breakfast and free wi fi. Dorms: $23-$30, Private Rooms: $82.  edit

• Taylor Hotel, 615 Taylor St (at Post St), ☎ 1 877-734-6835 or +1 415-775-0780, [46]. Check in: 3PM; Check out: 10AM. This is an older building and the rooms are in need of paint, but it's relatively clean. There is a nice Indian couple who runs the place, they have wireless internet and community computer in the lobby and a continental breakfast each morning. It's just 2 blocks from Union Square, great location. $66-$90.  edit

• Adelaide Hostel, 5 Isadora Duncan Lane (between Geary and Post Street), ☎ +1 415 359-1915 (info@adelaidehostel.com), [47]. Check out: 11 AM. This is a popular backpacker hostel. Dorms: $23 and up, Private rooms: $60 and up.  edit

• USA Hostels San Francisco, 711 Post St (between Jones St and Leavenworth St), ☎ +1 415 440-5600 (fax: +1 415 651-8802), [48]. < Great hostel operating in two buildings just off Union Square. All rooms have their own bathrooms. Dorms: $22 and up, Private rooms: $60 and up.  edit

• Civic Center Hotel, 20 12th St (between Franklin St and Van Ness Ave), ☎ +1 415 861-2373. The hotel is located at 20-12th Street on the corner of Market Street just one block west of the Van Ness MUNI station. Only metered street parking is available at the hotel. Furnished rooms with a sink in each room (no televisions). Single occupancy with a shared bath: $150/week. Add 14% tax for the first 4 weeks and a one time $15 key deposit.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Hotel Metropolis, 25 Mason St, [49]. It's on the eastern outskirts of the Tenderloin, but there were people sleeping in stairways and panhandling right next to the hotel, so it's authentic enough. Inside it is perfectly clean. Rooms available for under $200.  edit

• Air Travel Hotel, 655 Ellis St, ☎ +1-415-771-3000 (contact@airtravelhotel.com, fax: +1-415-474-2871), [50]. Short walk to Union Square and Moscone Center. Close to public transit. Free continental breakfast in the morning and free wi fi. $99-$119.  edit

• Inn At The Opera, 333 Fulton St, ☎ +1 415 863-8400, [51]. Check in: 3:00PM; Check out: 11.00AM. 47 elegantly appointed guestrooms, including 18 suites individually decorated with antique-style furnishings. Prime location just steps away from the finest cultural activities in San Francisco, including the Civic Center, the San Francisco War Memorial Opera House and Louise M. Davies Symphony Hall. Average Price $185.  edit

• The Phoenix Hotel, 601 Eddy St (at Larkin), ☎ +1 415 738-7477 (fax: +1 415 885-3109), [52]. A boutique hotel, favored by musicians of all stripes, with free parking and breakfast. Average Price $159.  edit

• Hotel Whitcomb, 1231 Market St, ☎ +1 415 626-8000 (fax: +1 415 861-1460), [53]. 460 Romm Historic Boutique Hotel An Elegant, opulent building, first used as a temporary city hall after the 1906 earthquake. Newly renovated rooms at 8th and Market at Hyde Street. Italian marble, Austrian chandelliers, and a walk to Symphony/Opera and Asian Art Museum. Also has a piano bar/wine bar. Average Price $189.  edit

• La Quinta, 1050 Van Ness (at Geary), ☎ +1 415 673-4711 (james.burkhouse@laquinta.com), [54]. Several blocks north. Good for public transportation. edit

• Renoir Hotel, 45 McAllister St, ☎ +1 415 626-5200 (info@renoirhotel.com, fax: +1 415 626-5200). This is a triangular boutique hotel bordered by Market St, 7th St, and McAllister St, is also close to this price range. It's an older building, but quaint and well maintained. Within easy walking distance to the bars and clubs of SoMa. If you want to spend a weekend clubbing and don't mind being surrounded by seedy porn stores and homeless people, this is great value. Average Price $146.  edit

• The Hotel Monaco, 501 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 292-0100 (fax: +1 415 292-0111), [55]. A fun and hip boutique hotel. This is part of Kimpton Hotels, a San Francisco based hotel and restaurant company. Rooms for under $200.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• The Clift Hotel, 495 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 775-4700 (fax: +1 415 441-4621), [56]. Hotel features Jeffrey Chodorow's Asia de Cuba restaurant, the Redwood Room, the Living Room, private apartments, penthouse suites and meeting facilities. Average Price $364.  edit

• Serrano Hotel, 405 Taylor St (at Taylor and O'Farrell), ☎ +1 415 885.2500 (fax: +1 415 474-4879), [57]. This is a deluxe boutique hotel in a 17-storey Spanish Revival building. Average Price $274.  edit

• Hotel Adagio, 550 Geary St, ☎ +1 415 775-5000 (fax: +1 415 775-9388), [58]. Hotel Adagio, a luxury boutique hotel, features a fresh design that bridges its Spanish Colonial Revival architectural roots to a clean and contemporary design aesthetic. This elegant downtown San Francisco hotel is 2 ½ blocks away from the Powell Street Cable Car line, 6 blocks from the Moscone Convention Center and is close to Chinatown, the Financial District, North Beach, Nob Hill and SOMA. Average Price $276.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

The Tenderloin is one of San Francisco's lowest income neighborhoods and has all the socio-economic problems that stem from this including crime, homlessness and drug addiction. In particular there is a lot of violent street crime like assault and theft. Travelers should be aware of their environment and take an appropriate amount of care. For example, it's probably not a good idea to be in the Tenderloin alone after 2AM.

[edit] Contact

• San Francisco Public Library - Main Library, 100 Larkin St (at Grove Street), ☎ +1 415 557-4400, [59]. Sun 12-5, M 10-6, Tu 9-8, W 9-8, Th 9-8, F 12-6, Sa 10-6.  edit

• 24fps Cafe, 608 Geary St (Located next to the Adante Hotel lobby), ☎ +1 415 440-3437, [60]. M-F 6:30AM-9PM, Sa-Su 7:30AM-9PM. Computer terminal rentals at $2.00 per 15 minutes.  edit

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