San Francisco/Chinatown-North Beach

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Chinatown
Chinatown

Chinatown-North Beach in San Francisco combines two adjoing neighbors, both of whom are among the City's most popular immigrant neighborhoods. Culturally and in terms of their atmosphere, they could not be more different, and yet their streets mesh seamlessly together. Chinatown is the oldest, and largest Chinatown in the US. It is both a functioning, living and breathing Chinese community, and a major tourist attraction at the same time. Its tiny and crowded streets bristle with activity and energy. North Beach, on the other hand, is much more laid back. This 'Little Italy', with its cafes and alfresco dining, has a real European charm and falvor reminicsent of the romance of Italy. The area runs from roughly Bay Street to the north, Columbus Avenue and Powell Street on the west, San Francisco Bay on the east, and Washington Street on the south with an extension to Sutter Street between Kearny and Powell Streets to encompass the rest of Chinatown.

[edit] Understand

Established in 1850 in the area around Portsmouth Plaza, San Francisco's Chinatown [1] is reputed to be the oldest, largest, and most famous of all Chinatowns outside of Asia. As a district, it is home for more than 15,000 Chinese and Chinese-Americans, many of whom are low-income, elderly, and foreign born, living in dense tenements. It is also a cultural link for the hundreds of thousand Chinese and Chinese-Americans in the San Francisco Bay Area. Chinatown holds a prominent position in the history of Chinese and Chinese-Americans in the United States, from the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 to the present day. The residual "bachelor" society one finds in San Francisco's Chinatown today cannot be understood without some knowledge of these hostile decades. More than just a tourist destination, San Francisco's Chinatown is a living, breathing Chinese community that can offer intriguing cultural experiences even to the most jaded old China hand. Cantonese is the main dialect spoken here.

The tourist section of Chinatown is mainly along Grant Avenue, from Bush to Broadway. Grant Avenue was made famous by Rodgers and Hammerstein's Flower Drum Song. The Chinatown market area is mainly along Stockton Street, one block above (west of) Grant Avenue, and the east-west streets crossing Stockton. Other San Francisco concentrations of Chinese shops and restaurants are located in the Inner Richmond District, mainly along Clement, and the Outer Sunset District, mainly along Irving.

Forming part of the old Barbary Coast, and popular with both locals and tourists alike, North Beach remains one of the most popular neighborhoods in San Francisco. Nestled between Chinatown to the south and Fisherman's Wharf to the north, North Beach forms the City's Little Italy district. It derived it's name as the Bay shoreline originally reached as far as Taylor and Francisco streets, and the area was indeed a real beach until the City subsequently filled it in. It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, and is steeped in history and culture. Grant Avenue itself is the oldest street in San Francisco. Old-style Italian cafes, restaurants, delicatessens and authentic bakeries line the steep streets. North Beach was also the West Coast's capital for the Beatnik movement in the 1950s. The neighborhood is also very well known for it's lively nightlife scene. Nightclubs and bars abound - particularly at the intersection of Columbus and Grant streets. Broadway, is a relatively seedy street lined with adult bookstores and strip clubs; strangely, like everything in San Francisco, they retain a certain charm. Washington Square, in front of the Church of Saint Peter and Paul, is a very popular hangout with locals, and a great place to relax. North Beach has some famous residents - past and present, like baseball great Joe DiMaggio and movie director Francis Ford Copolla.

[edit] Get in

Map of Chinatown-North Beach
Map of Chinatown-North Beach

[edit] By Car

Driving into the area is not recommended, but if you must, the closest parking garage to Chinatown is underneath Portsmouth Plaza, on Kearny Street (which is a one-way street north) between Clay and Washington. There are also a few small parking garages scattered throughout North Beach. Driving to the base of Coit Tower is definitely not recommended, as there is a very limited amount of parking at the top of the hill.

[edit] By Cable Car

Each of the three Cable Car lines pass through Chinatown. If you exit BART or the MUNI Metro at the Powell St. Station you can catch the Powell-Mason or the Powell-Hyde cable car line at Powell and Market. Both routes will take you into Chinatown, but the Powell-Mason line is a better bet for getting to North Beach as the Powell-Hyde line turns west at Jackson and proceeds into Russian Hill. To reach Chinatown's famous Grant Avenue via the cable car, exit BART or the MUNI Metro at the Embarcadero Station and catch the California cable car line at California and Market.

[edit] By Bus

Of course, if you'd rather avoid the long lines and crowded trip that a cable car ride entails, there are several good MUNI [2] bus lines that serve the area. To get to Chinatown from the BART/MUNI Metro, exit at the Montgomery Street Station, walk one block up Post Street, and catch the 30-Stockton or 45-Union SF-Muni bus line on Kearny near Post. The 30 or 45 bus will turn left onto Sutter and then right onto Stockton; after passing through the Stockton Tunnel, the bus will stop twice in Chinatown, on Stockton near Clay and on Stockton near Pacific. To get to North Beach from Market Street, the 9X-San Bruno Express, 10-Townsend, 20-Columbus, 30 or 45 lines will do nicely. From the east, the 1-California and 12-Folsom/Pacific lines pass through Chinatown. The 39-Coit goes from Fisherman's Wharf up to the Coit Tower, but can be obstructed by traffic that clogs the parking lot there, but there are plans to change this.

[edit] On Foot

Chinatown is also an easy walk from Union Square (walk north on Stockton through the tunnel or north on Grant through the Chinatown Gate at Grant and Bush). North Beach can be easily accessed by walking northbound from Market Street- straight through the Financial District. Both neighborhoods can also be easily reached from Market Street by walking northbound on Grant Avenue. To get to the area from Fisherman's Wharf - walk southbound straight down Columbus Avenue.

[edit] Get around

There can be little doubt, that once you have arrived in the Chinatown-North Beach area, by far the best way to get around is on foot. Due to the busy and cluttered nature of both neighborhoods, and also because of the lack of parking options, driving around is certainly not recommeded - particularly in Chinatown. Buses however can also be a help, particularly when you are going in a North-South direction (or vica versa).

[edit][add listing] See

Coit Tower
Coit Tower
  • Telegraph Hill. Telegraph Hill earned its name in the days of the Gold Rush when it was used as a sinalling post to send messages about incoming ships through the Bay. Coit tower was erected at its peak in 1933. Today it has a quiet neighboorhood built along the hillside and it is mostly known for its magnificient hillside gardens, the fantastic views from the top, Coit Tower and of course the wild parrots of Telegraph Hill. These colorful feral parrots, primarily Red-masked Parakeets, are actually decendants of domesticated pets. There are narrow steps leading up and down the sides of the hill, (including the Filbert Steps) that offer great views over the Bay. edit
  • Coit Tower, 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd (limited parking; or take #39 Muni bus from Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 362-0808 (), [3]. Every day, 10am-5pm. Visible from all parts of San Francisco and the Bay Area, Coit Tower stands atop Telegraph Hill, and gives an excellent view of the rest of the Bay. The tower was built by the federal Works Projects Administration in 1933 with money bequeathed by eccentric San Franciscan Lillie Coit. Coit was told to have chased after firefighters as a young girl, and as an older woman sponsored her favorite fire company. A fan of the volunteer city firefighters, and local legend has it that the shape of the tower is supposed to simulate the end of a firehose -- although the architects denied this claim. The first and second floor house beautiful examples of New Deal-era idealist murals, and the top floor (reached by elevator) has featured paintings or other art. Artists put in their own signatures and messages in the murals, which interpretive plaques point out. $3 (''elevator to top floor; the rest is free'').  edit

The Lonely Meter

Similar to paved streets, the Filbert Steps have fire hydrants, road signs, and a solitary parking meter. The parking meter, numbered 568 47610, is hidden on a landing off the stairs. 568 47610 is notable for several reasons. Foremost, 568 47610 does not serve any apparent parking space; instead it tends a remote bench with which it shares a wooden platform. Together the platform, bench and meter offer visitors a welcome rest from the steps with a view of North Beach and the bay. The parking meter also boasts a small Buddha, which is glued to its top. 568 47610 is not a functioning unit: inserting quarters will not buy you any time; however, it is a good time.
  • Filbert Steps. The Filbert Steps are the part of Filbert Street that runs between Battery Street and Telegraph Hill Boulevard in North Beach, San Francisco. The steps end next to Coit Tower, and offer a scenic -- though some what strenuous -- route for visitors of the tower. In fact, following the steps is at times faster than driving to Coit Tower due to the high demand for relatively few parking spots near the site. Visitors of the steps will see public gardens, stylish homes and views of North Beach and the bay; if a path is not gated or specifically signed with "No Trespassing," then it is most likely public. Also, it pays to be adventurous: some of the best gardens and views are off the stairs. Finally, there is more than one way up and down; if you make a round trip you should find a new route for the return leg. Just avoid private property.
  • Stockton Street Produce Markets, Stockton Street (runs parallel to Grant Street, one block west - between Sacramento to Vallejo). The fruit, vegetable and live prodece marlets on Stockton Street are a must for any adventurous traveller. The greatest concentration of Chinese shops and Chinese shoppers can be found in the three blocks from Washington to Broadway. They are notoriously busy, and not for the faint of hearted as locals deftly paw over each and every piece of fruit...you have to be quick! Tangerines are important during Chinese New Years. You may need a gut check as well in the live produce markets - there are all kinds of live fauna flapping about from frogs and turtles, to chickens and ducks. The best time to explore Stockton Street is on weekdays; weekends are even more crowded, when Chinese families that have moved up to the suburbs return for shopping on Stockton Street. To avoid the crowds, explore the area in the morning or late afternoon. Many of the shops close around 6pm, but the eateries will remain open into the evening hours. edit

  • Chinatown Gate, Grant Avenue (Grant Avenue and Bush Street). Erected in 1970, this ornate dragon-crested gate, marks the southern entrance to Chinatown. The Gateway is inscribed with the saying "All under heaven is for the good of the people," by Dr. Sun Yat-sen.  edit

  • Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, 56 Ross Alley, ☎ + 1 415 781-3956. Mon-Sun: 7:00am-8:30pm. Opened in 1962, this tiny factory produces more than 20,000 fortune cookies a day. Tourists are welcome to walk in off the street, have a gander around and sample a cookie or two - although you do get the feeling that they prefer you to buy something. Free.  edit
  • City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Ave (at Broadway), ☎ +1 415 362-8193 (fax: + 1 415 362- 4921), [4]. Every day, 10am-Midnight. Co-founded by Beat poet Lawrence Ferlenghetti, City Lights was one of the centers of the Beat community in the 1950s. Today you can go there and check out a large selection of books of every type. edit

  • Columbus Tower/Sentinel Building, 916 Columbus Ave. This flatiron (wedge shaped) copper-green building is an unmistakable San Francisco landmark. The 'Grateful Dead' once recorded some of their songs there. Today it is owned by movie-director, Francis Ford Copolla. It now has a cafe on its ground floor, where you can grab a coffee whilest admiring the impressive setting. edit

  • Chinatown Alleys. Though Grant Avenue has a lot to offer, it is quite touristy; thus, it is essential that you examine the more authentic areas in the alleys, such as Waverly Place, Pagoda Place, Spofford Lane and Ross Alley, between Grant and Stockton. You will hear Cantonese conversations and the clicking sound of mahjong tiles being shuffled.  edit

[edit] Museums

  • Chinese Culture Center, 750 Kearny St., 3rd floor (From Portsmouth Square: just walk across the footbridge that crosses Kearny St. to the Hilton Hotel (formerly the Holiday Inn)), ☎ +1 415 986-1822 (, fax: +1 415 986-2825), [5]. The center was established inorder to promote understanding of Chinese and Chinese American history, art, and culture in the US. They have a small gallery with changing Chinese art exhibitions. Admission is free.  edit
  • Chinese Historical Society of America Museum & Learning Center, 965 Clay St., ☎ +1 415 391-1188 (, fax: +1 415 391-1150), [6]. Tuesday–Friday 12–5 pm, Saturday 11–4pm, Sunday – Monday closed. This is well worth a visit, with exhibits on the history and experience of Chinese immigrants to San Francisco over the past 150 years. Admission: $3.00.  edit
  • Beat Museum, 540 Broadway (at Columbus), ☎ 1-800-537-6822, [7]. Monday: Closed, Tuesday to Sunday: 10am-10pm. Features quite an extensive collection of exhibits, books and manuscripts etc. focusing on Jack Kerouac and the literary Beat Generation. Plenty of books and T-Sirts for sale here as well. edit
  • North Beach Museum, 1435 Stockton Street, ☎ + 1 415 391-6210. Mon-Thu 9am-4pm; Fri 9am-6pm; closed weekends. Photographs, pictures and artifacts that shed light on the rich history of North Beach. Free.  edit

[edit] Temples & Churches

Old Saint Mary's Cathedral
Old Saint Mary's Cathedral
  • Tin How Temple (天后古廟), 125 Waverly Place, 4th floor. Open 10am to 4pm daily. San Francisco's oldest Chinese temple. It is dedicated to Matsu, Goddess of the Sea. edit

  • Matsu Temple, 30 Beckett St.. Dedicated to Matsu, but has only been around since 1986 edit
  • Old St. Marys Church. This is a Chinatown landmark. A beautiful brick building, it is the oldest Roman Catholic church in San Francisco. edit

  • Buddhas Universal Church, 720 Washington St., ☎ +1 415 982-6116 (, fax: + 1 415 421-3325), [8]. At five stories tall, this is the largest Buddhist church in the US and is home to the largest Buddhist congregation in San Francisco. The altar resembles the ship of the Dharma (teachings of the Buddha) and is bordered on both sides by teak paneled walls which are supposed to represent the sails of the ship.  edit

  • Kong Chow Temple, 855 Stockton St., ☎ +1 415 788-1339. Founded in 1857 , this is a Taoist temple in honor of the God of honesty and trust - Kuan Ti. It has many colorful altars - green is used for longevity, red staves off evil spirits, and gold evokes majesty. Free - donations accepted.  edit

  • Sts. Peter and Paul Church, 660 Filbert Street (overlooking Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 421-5219 (fax: +1 415 421-1831), [9]. A statuesque, neo-Gothic Roman Catholic Cathederal situated directly in front of Washington Square. After Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe wed at City Hall in 1954, they were famously photographed afterwards at the this Church. Free.  edit

  • St. Francis of Assisi Church, 610 Vallejo Street, ☎ +1 415 983-0405 (, fax: +1 415 983-0407), [10]. 11:00am to 5:00pm daily. Established during the days of the Gold Rush, this Church does not host an active parish, however it still functions as a national shrine and tribute to St. Francis of Assisi. It also has a gift shop where you can purchase crosses, frescos, rosaries and holy cards. Free.  edit

[edit] Parks and monuments

  • Portsmouth Square (bordered by Kearny Street, Washington Street, Clay Street, and Walter Lum Place). This is the largest area of open space in Chinatown. It is known as the "Heart of Chinatown" because the neighborhood began along one of its sides and extended from there to become what we know as Chinatown today. The square bristles with activity, and here you find local residents playing cards or Chinese chess, and practicing Tai Chi. The square contains several memorials, statues, and plaques - including a bronze replica of the Goddess of Democracy statue and a marker commemorating Robert Louis Stevenson. edit

  • St. Mary's Park (south side of California Street, opposite Old St. Mary's Church). This park boasts an Art Deco statue of Sun Yat-Sen, created by sculptor Benny Bufano in the 1930s. edit

  • Washington Square (Union & Powell). Every day, 8AM-10AM. Locals practice tai-chi, the martial art and meditation practice. Different sections of the park will host everything from jazzercise to sword-play. Sunny days will bring out locals lounging on their blankets. Art fairs are frequent, and the oyster-beer fair in March is very popular [11] Note the sculpture to volunteer firefighters on the Columbis Ave. side. The St. Peter and Paul church of the Salesians borders the northern side. Joe Dimaggio and Marilyn Monroe were photographed outside of the church, but they could not be married inside because she was divorced. Monroe and Dimaggio had their reception around the corner at a place which is now called "Pena Pacha Mama" (Powell St between Union & Green) edit

  • Juana Briones Monument, Stockton and Filbert, [12]. See the momument erected in honor of this humanitarian and pioneer settler of Yerba Buena (now North Beach). edit

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Beach Blanket Babylon, Club Fugazi, 678 Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard (at Green Street), ☎ +1 415 421-4222 (). This zany Steve Silver cabaret, is the longest running musical revue in US theater history. The show is an internationally acclaimed San Francisco institution, and famous for it's use of enormous hats, some of which are up to ten feet tall! It has even been seen by Queen Elizabeth. edit

  • Walking Tours. Walking is not only the most environmentally friendly way to see this area, it is also undoubtedly the best way as it allows one to experience its rich ambiance and charms first hand. A knowledgeable guide can be a big help in this regard, and several companies offer different kinds of walking tours through both Chinatown and North Beach; edit
  • San Francisco City Guides, ☎ +1 415 557-4266 (). Take an informative and free tour of either North Beach or Chinatown from passionate locals who love to talk about their neighborhood. Free.  edit
  • Barbery Coast Trail, ☎ +1 415 454-2355 (), [13]. Take a tour of San Francisco's historic Barbary Coast. A series of bronze medallions and arrows are embedded into the sidewalks and help you navigate through the the Barbary Coast Trail’s historic sites. You can either download a map ($8.95) or audio tour ($25) or take one of their guided tours which are are available by appointment only ($22 per person with a $352 minimum). edit

  • Culinary Walking Tour of North Beach and Little Italy, Departs: Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Shop at 569 Columbus Avenue at Washington Square Park. Daily (except December 25, 26, January 1, and Easter), 10am, 2pm. North Beach is famous for its food and cafe culture, so take a four hour guided tour of its family bakeries, sidewalk cafés and traditional Italian pastry shops. The tour includes an authentic Italian meal as well as a narration of North Beach history. Adult, $89; Child (14 & under), $69 - Included: Narration, Food Not Included: Gratuities.  edit

  • GraceAnn Walden's SF North Beach Walking tours, ☎ +1 415 302-5898 (). Named one of the 100 Best Things about San Francisco by Gourmet Magazine. Every Saturday, radio restaurant critic, GraceAnn Walden conducts a walking tour of North Beach. The tour includes a historical narration, and it takes you to see a 125 year old brick-oven bakery, a stylish restaurant, and an Italian bakery. Lunch accompanied by wine are included. Reservations are necessary. Private tours of North Beach are available on weekdays for 12 or more. $80 all inclusive.  edit

  • Local Tastes of the City Tours, ☎ +1 415 665-0480, [14]. They offer an affordable $59 3 hour tour of North Beach, starting at either 10am or 2pm. You get to sample coffees, handmade chocolates, pastries, breads and olive oils. A historical lecture is provided and they will take you to some of the old Beat Generation hangouts. They also offer a seperate 3 hour tour of Chinatown starting either 10am or 2pm. Here you will get to sample Chines Teas and Dim Sum, as well as see how fortune cookies are made. Finally, they do a combined 2 hour night tour of both Chinatown and North Beach which starts at 6pm, and also costs $59. edit

[edit] Events and Festivals

  • Chinese New Year Festivities, [15]. Celebrated for over 5,000 years, the San Francisaco version dates back to the Gold Rush Days. The parade is colorful, vibrant and loud; with decorative costumes, lions, deafening firecrackers, "lucky-money" envelopes, colorful banners, over 100 ornately themed floats, martial arts groups, stilt walkers, acrobats, and of course a 200 foot Golden Dragon that has a six foot-long head! . Free.  edit

  • Autumn Moon Festival, ☎ +1 415 982-6306 (), [16]. 11am to 6pm each day. This festival marks a significant holiday in the Chinese lunar calendar - the autumn equinox. It's a time to admire the fullness of the moon, and embrace the myth of an immortal moon Goddess, Chang O, who lives in the moon. It has parallels with the American Thanksgiving Day, as it is predicated upon giving thanks and reflecting upon the bounty of the summer harvest. The festivities include, Chinese acrobats, lions, music, dance and Chinese opera among other things. Free.  edit

  • Oyster Beer Festival, Usually takes place in Washington Square, ☎ + 1 415 989-6222 (), [17]. Fun festival centered around the simple pleasures of Guinness Stout and Oysters. Lots of live entertainment and events such as the "Shuck and Suck Competition" and Irish dancing. General Admission: $15 in advance; $19 at the door, Reserved Seating Tickets $50.  edit

  • North Beach Festival, Washington Square Park, 1200-1500 blocks of Grant Avenue and adjacent streets in North Beach, [18]. Takes place in Mid June. A North Beach tradition to celebrate its Italian heritage. It features live music and entertainment, poetry readings, classical concerts, dancing, ArtE di Gesso (street chalk art), and varied Arts and Crafts Exhibitions. Free.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

Chinatown and North Beach are unique immigrant neighborhoods, and consequently there are almost no large chain-stores to be found. In Chinatown, Grant Avenue is the main shopping thoroughfare for tourists. Here you will find Oriental handicrafts of all descriptions, from jade statues, to Asian rugs and kimonos. It also has many souvenier stores and small market stalls that sell typical tourist niknaks. Stockton street runs parallel to Grant on its west, and has many fresh produce and household ware stores that are popular with locals. North Beach has predominantly small boutique stores selling mostly clothing and jewelry, arts and handicrafts, furniture and Italian wares.

  • Imperial Tea Court, 1411 Powell St, ☎ +1 415 788-6080 (), [19]. Opened in 1993 it features authentic, hand-crafted Chinese teas. The selection icludes; organic, white, green, oolong, black, pureh, herbal, yellow and scented teas.  edit

  • Coit Liquor, 585 Columbus Avenue, ☎ +1 415 986-4036 (, fax: +1 415 296-7825), [20]. Selling wines, spirits and beers for over 40 years, they specialize in the varieties that are hardest to find. They have an extensive Southern-Italian wine collection.  edit

  • A. Cavalli & Co, 1441 Stockton St., ☎ +1 415 421-4219. Mon-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm. This shop with its friendly proprietor sells everything Italian - from imported espresso makers and pasta makers, to Italian newspapers and magazines.  edit

  • Biordi Arts, 412 Columbus Ave., ☎ +1 415 392-8096, [21]. For 50 years the owners have been selling imprited Renaissance style Italian Majolica as well as Italian Handpainted Dinnerware.  edit

  • City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Ave (at Broadway), ☎ +1 415 362-8193 (fax: + 1 415 362- 4921), [22]. Every day, 10am-Midnight. Co-founded by Beat poet Lawrence Ferlenghetti, City Lights was one of the centers of the Beat community in the 1950s. Today you can go there and check out a large selection of books of every type. edit

  • Asian Image, 800 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 398-2602. Two floors of satorial treasures such as velvet jackets and Thai silk shirts. It also sells Asian books and many other eclectic Asian wares. edit

  • China Station, 456-460 Grant Ave., ☎ +1 415 397-4848. If you like reasonably priced souveniers, this is the place for you. They have a very broad selection, selling everyting from Chinese exercise balls to Buddha statues.  edit

  • Dragon House, 455 Grant Ave., ☎ +1 415 781-2351 (, fax: +1 415 781-2351), [23]. Sells genuine antiques and fine art from China, Japan, Tibet and Mongolia.  edit

  • Peking Bazaar, 826-832 Grant Ave. (between California St & Sacramento St), ☎ +1 415 982-9847. Sprawling store selling a wide range of dicsount imported goods from Asia including lanterns, candles, sarongs, silk kimonos, geisha outfits and Chinese dolls.  edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

There are a host of dining options available here. Chinatown is famous for its cheap eats (like Dim Sum) and 'family style' eating in restaurants. You can fill up here for as little as $3, but there are more expensive full serivce restaurants here as well. North Beach is generally pricier and the focus is mainly on Italian favourites like pizza, pasta and risotto, accompanied by a nice bottle of wine. With many of its restaurants situated directly on Columbus Avenue, it's a great place for alfresco style dining. There are however more affordable options in North Beach, including several great cafes, delis, and American diner style restaurants, where you can get a good quality meal at a more reasonable price.

[edit] Budget

  • Sam Wo (三和粥粉麵), 813 Washington St (at Grant St), ☎ +1 415 982-0596. Daily 11am-3am. Well-known among Bay Area residents, this is a place that people either love or hate - food is cheap, service is terrible, and the conditions are squalid, but for some there is no better restaurant in all of Chinatown. The barbecue pork rolls are a favorite, and the wonton soup is terrific. edit

  • Dol Ho (多好茶室), 808 Pacific Ave (up from Stockton St), ☎ +1 415 392-2828. Closed on Wednesdays, Thu-Tue 7am-5pm. For excellent dim sum at a price that's a bargain compared to the touristy joints on Grant, this is a great place to eat. Most, if not all, of the clientele are Chinese, and this is a good thing. edit

  • Y Ben (會賓樓), 835 Pacific Ave (up from Stockton St), ☎ +1 415 397-3168. If Dol Ho is too much of a hole in the wall for your tastes, try Y Ben diagonally opposite just up the street for dim sum of similar excellent quality and low prices. edit
  • Bow Hon (寶漢), 850 Grant Avenue, ☎ +1 415 362-0601. This restaurant serves traditional clay pot dishes. edit
  • Uncles, 65 Waverly Pl (At the corner of Clay and Waverly), ☎ +1 415 982-1954. Is authentic, and incredibly cheap. There are large portions, and the staff will warn you if you order too much food or an item that is too large for your party. Well worth the money and not overcrowded. edit
  • Mo's Grill, 1322 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 788-3779, [24]. American style diner that definitely has one of the best burgers in San Francisco. Mo's burgers are huge, and are best complimented with a frosted cold glass of beer! Burgers and fries around $10.  edit

  • Curly's Coffee Shop, 1624 Powell Street (close to Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 392-0144. Basic and affordable diner food served here. Breakfast is very popular with the locals.  edit

[edit] Mid range

  • House of Nanking, 919 Kearny St. (Cross Street - Jackson), ☎ +1 415 421-1429. Mon-Sat 11am-10pm , Sun 12pm-9:30pm. An excellent low-brow sit-down Chinese restaurant. Let the waiter order for you. Given the size of the dishes, two persons can reasonably share the same meal (thus a price around 7.50$/person in dec. 2007)..  edit
  • Bocadillos, 710 Montgomery (at Washington St), ☎ +1 415 982-2622 (, fax: +1 415 982-0177), [25]. Mon-Wed 7:00am-10:00pm, Thur and Fri 7:00am-10:30pm, Sat 5:00pm-10:30pm. Basque restaurant in North Beach, good champagne and rose wine selection. Menu favorites: serrano ham, crab fritters. Tapas, small plates, moderately priced. Modern decor with windows onto Washington Street. Bubble Lounge is next door, also specializing in huge champagne colelction. Gets very well-dressed crowd in after work and later evening. No line (yet) and serves parties up to 10, but small space. Entrees $9-$14.  edit
  • Caffè Puccini, 411 Columbus (at Vallejo Street), ☎ +1 415 989-7033. Daily 6am-12am. Puccini serves a mean cappuccino, but they also offer a delicious homemade lasagna. The walls are adorned with opera posters, and the sounds of Verdi and spoken Italian are in the air. Excellent tiramisu, the Italian layered custard and chocolate dessert. edit
  • Iluna Basque, 701 Union Street (at Powell Street) (fax: +1 415 402-0099), [26]. Sun-Thurs 5:30-10:30pm, Fri-Sat 5:30-11:30pm. One block kitty corner from Washington Street park on the Russian Hill side. Basque tapas plates, small, moderately priced. Great wine list. Founded by 23-year old restauranteur Mattina Noblia (former top chef at Piperade), hosts excellent meat and roasted options with a great glass of wine. Dark red curtains, late hours and great food. Entrees $10-$16.  edit
  • L'Osteria del Forno, 519 Columbus Avenue, ☎ +1 415 982-1124. Tuesday Closed, Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sun 11:30 - 10:00 / Friday & Staurday 11:30 - 10:30. No reservations. A charming, crowded locally known date restaurant, L'Osteria has a line out the door after 5PM, so arrive early. The small semi-surly staff cooks up wonderful, affordably-priced dishes in the kitchen's one oven, so things can take a little while... specials on the menu: the roast pork, baked penne, and salmon carpaccio are favorites. Excellent Italian wine selection by the glass and bottle. Cannot seat more than 4 in a party. Entrees $10-$18.  edit
  • Mama's, 1701 Stockton St. (On Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 362-6421. Open Daily 8:00am - 3:00pm, Closed Mondays. Unblievably popular place with locals for breakfast, it's become a North Beeach institution. In 2007, it won Zagat's - "Best Breakfast in San Francisco" Breakfast and lunch go for about $9-$11.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • R & G Lounge, 631 Kearny, ☎ +1 415 982-7877 (), [27]. Mon-Sun 11:30am to 9:30pm. An authentic upscale Cantonese Restaurant and Lounge. All types of seafood including Salt and Pepper Crab. Entrees $10-$35.  edit
  • Caffe Sport, 574 Green Street (off Columbus), ☎ +1 415 981-1251. Tu-Sa 12PM-2PM, Mon-Sun 5PM-10:30PM. Italian food meets hippy bus. Plates of pasta served family style. Some very nice seafood pastas. They may bring what you order, or perhaps what the chef thinks would go together better. They have house wine, served in water tumblers. Small, a little noisy, a lot of fun. Opens special hours for World Cup faithful. Cash only. Entrees $15-$24.  edit
  • The House, 1230 Grant (at Columbus), ☎ +1 415 986-8612, [28]. Reservations recommended. The home of Asian fusion cuisine. The dining space is tiny, but the possible ensuing wait is worth it. Don't miss the scallop-topped Caesar salad or the often-imitated seared Ahi tuna. edit

  • Ristorante Gondola, 15 Columbus Avenue (between Gibb St & Ils Ln), ☎ +1 415 956-5528. Simple Italian with varied menu. Not in the crowded blocks so tends to have easy seating and less intrusive staff. The pumpkin ravioli is a favorite. Affordable, with excellent Italian wine selection. No restriction on size of party. Parking at Chinese Catholic Center on Jackson. edit
  • The Stinking Rose, 325 Columbus Ave (), [29]. The original in what has become a chain of garlic restaurants offering sumptuous, contemporary California-Italian cuisine prepared and adorned with garlic. Motto: "We Season Our Garlic With Food!®" Entrees $19-$30.  edit
  • Fior D'Italia, 2237 Mason Street, ☎ +1 415 986-1886 (, fax: +1 415 441-8774), [30]. Set a few blocks back from the Wharf area, this is America's Oldest Italian Restaurant, and it has been open since 1886. A favourite among locals and visitors alike, it serves authentic Northern Italian cuisine. Entrees from $16-$36.  edit

  • Washington Square Bar and Grill, 1707 Powell Street (between Columbus Ave & Union St), ☎ +1 415 982-8123 (), [31]. Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:00 a.m. Sat-Sun 10:30 a.m.-2:00 a.m.. Affectionately known as the "Washbag" this has always been a popular place for lacals to hang out, including politicians, journalists and celebrities. It has Jazz 7 nights a week. Entrees from $11-$36.  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

[edit] Bars

Chinatown has less drinking establishments, but North Beach is well known for its abundance of both bars and clubs, which attract both locals and tourists alike.

  • Li Po's, 916 Grant Ave. (at Washington), ☎ +1 415 982 0072. This dive bar is great to pop into while in Chinatown. Although it has nothing on tap, bottled beer is available. Check out the seedy booths in the back lit by a single red bulb. Or catch a live act in the dimly-lit basement on the weekends. edit
  • Bow Bow Cocktail Lounge (寶寶), 1155 Grant Avenue (near the intersection of Kearney and Columbus), ☎ +1 415 421-6730. Little hole in the wall dive bar, run by the irrepressible hostess/owner, Candy Mama. A 50-something woman originally from Taiwan. She's a spitfire and a complete rock star. She'll end up doing shots with you, sneaking shots into your drinks, force-feeding you endless peanuts and making adorable and incessant conversation. The crowd's an eclectic mix, which makes for great people-watching. Especially when the karaoke is broken out. edit
  • Buddha Bar, 901 Grant Ave. (at Washington), ☎ +1 415 362-1792. Daily 12pm-2am. Another favorite dive bar in Chinatown, this is a cramped yet lively place that's great for people watching. edit
  • Red's Place, 672 Jackson St. (at Beckett St.), ☎ +1 415 956-4490. It is the oldest operating bar in Chinatown. It's a quiet place, ideal for conversations. edit
  • 15 Romolo, 15 Romolo (at Broadway, half block in from Columbus intersection), ☎ +1 415 398-1359. Daily 5:30pm-2am. The hidden bar has a lovely dark red decor. Formerly the "Basque Hotel" this historic hotel and bar becomes quite crowded on one of the busiest blocks during a Friday and Saturday night in North Beach. It's also positioned on a steep street, with a side entrance that seems furtive and secret. edit

  • DragonBar, 473 Broadway (at Kearny), ☎ +1 415 834-9383 (), [32]. Hours vary. The DragonBar was once the HiBall Lounge, the original bar that brought back Broadway Street over 10 years ago. Located in the heart of North Beach, "the interior transcends trendy minimalist design with a seductive drenching of Asian elements--pictures of geishas, oversized bamboo sticks and a slew of giant paper lanterns. It also boasts the most flattering lighting scheme on the block. Using red lights in an otherwise dark spot, the confines will have you looking better than the hot-bodied Broadway Street dancers." says Citysearch.com. The DragonBar is a great place to have a cocktail with your friends then dance the night away. In addition to the two bars, the dance floor is large and there is a smoking patio that has frontage along the Broadway Strip. edit

  • Fuse, 493 Broadway (at Kearny), ☎ +1 415 788-2706, [33]. Daily 6pm-2am. Catering to a musical taste that leans towards electronica, Fuse regularly features DJs that spin a variety of house and downtempo. This being San Francisco, the crowd tends to show up on the late side, but when they turn out they arrive in force. Fuse isn't that big so, if you arrive after everyone, be prepared to wait in line. The dance floor is minimal, establishing a space that's more for drinking and enjoying the music than getting funky. However, the quality of music is fun, and the bar staff is very friendly. edit

  • North Star, 1560 Powell (at Green), ☎ +1 415 397-0577. Daily 1pm-2am. The North Star is a standard bar that you will find almost everywhere in the U.S. It has pool tables, a bar, and as the evening goes on becomes standing room only. This is a good bar for hanging out with friends and making new ones. edit

  • Specs, 12 William Saroyan Pl. (down a small alley off of Columbus, around the corner from Tosca), ☎ +1 415 421-4112. Mariner's hangout and general dive bar in North Beach, this is a hidden gem. edit

  • The International Cocktail Lounge, 1000 Columbus St. (at Columbus at Chestnut), ☎ +1 415 775-6036. Nice little bar with a well worn-in interior, moderately loud jukebox and friendly bar staff. Cheap prices and they have a pool table and a couple seats by the door for the smokers. Nice mix of locals and tourists, very low key and down to earth. A very good place to make new friends and gets a good young crowd after about nine. edit

  • Tosca, 242 Columbus Ave (between Broadway & Pacific), ☎ +1 415 391-1244, [34]. Mon-Sun 5pm-2am. Another landmark North Beach Cafe/Bar, Tosca is dark but atmospheric interior complete with some cool red-leather booths. The bar is named after the opera Tosca and has an intense list of operas on the jukebox. Willie Brown, former mayor, hangout. It's known for its specialty "'Coffeeless Cappuccino" - steamed milk with brandy and chocolate. There are about 15 cappuccinos lined up on the bar ready to serve, they are so popular. edit

  • Vesuvio's, 255 Columbus Avenue (next door to the famous CityLights bookstore), [35]. Every Day from 6am to 2am. This quirky and historic bar was founded in 1948, and is famous for it's association with jazz, poetry and the Beat Generation. The bar was a favourite among many Beat Generation celebrities, including Jack Kerouac edit

  • Bimbo's 365 Club, 1025 Columbus Avenue (at Chestnut Street), ☎ +1 415 474-0365 (). Box office: Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Club hours vary. Bimbo's is an glamorous upscale event venue and nnightclub that holds up to 700 people. It has three bars, a dance floor and stage. Robin Williams does his act here quite regularly.  edit

  • Zebra Lounge, 447 Broadway, ☎ +1 415 788-0188 (), [36]. Upsale and trendy new lounge and nightclub with DJs and a reasonably sized dancefloor. It gets a young crowd.  edit

  • The Saloon, 1232 Grant Street (between Columbus and Vallejo), ☎ +1 415 989-7666, [37]. Old Blues/Jazz bar that has survied the raucous Barbey Coast and the 1906 earthquake. This is the oldest bar in San Francisco and it certainly looks like it too - it's grotty and rough looking inside and out, and it's extremely loud, but it can also be great fun and a must if you love the Blues. Weekends - $5 cover charge.  edit

[edit] Coffee

North Beach in particular is famous its 'cafe culture'. It has an excellent variety of cafes, many of which serve award winning coffee, sometimes imported all the way from Italy.

  • Caffe Trieste, 601 Vallejo St (Valejo St. and Grant Avenue), ☎ +1 415 392-6739, [38]. Fri-Sat 6:30am-12:00am Sun-Thu 6:30am-11:00pm. Has become a North Beach landmark. Although a little bit scruffy, it has excellent coffee - certainly one of the best cups of coffee in North Beach, and its very popular with locals.  edit
  • Caffe Roma, 526 Columbus Avenue (at Union Street), ☎ +1 415 296-7942, [39]. Excellent coffe but a little bit pricey by comparison.  edit
  • Bohemian Cigar Store, 566 Columbus (at Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 362-0536. Excellent espresso and a relaxed, friendly atmosphere with curbside tables that overlook Washington Square. Its cappuccino is prize-winning.  edit
  • Stella Pasticceria e Caffe, 446 Columbus, ☎ +1 415 986-2914 (fax: +1 415 397-9140). Small, elegant cafe/bakery, that serves fresh affordable coffee with delicious treats like cannoli and tiramisu available on the side. edit
  • Caffee Greco, 423 Columbus Street, ☎ +1 415 397-6261. Probably North Beach's most popular cafe, especially with locals. It has a real European atmosphere and imports its coffee from Italy. Curbside tables add to the ambiance. edit

[edit] Juice Bars

  • Juicy Lucy's, 703 Columbus Avenue (between Filbert St & Greenwich St), ☎ +1 415 786-1285. Mon-Sun 11:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m.. Juicy Lucy's is a local gem an all organic juice and food bar. It's got kind of a Hippie flavor (there is a hay bale insotre) and is very popular with locals.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • The Green Tortoise Hostel, 494 Broadway (at Columbus), 415-834-1000 or 800-867-8647, [40]. Dorms from $23, private rooms from $56. Free breakfast, free internet, free dinner 3 nights a week, free sauna. Hostel activities include live music, parties and pub crawls. Great location in North Beach.
  • Grant Plaza Hotel, 465 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 434-3883 (, fax: +1 415 434.3886), [41]. Good for 1 or 2 night stay. Rates are reasonable. Make sure you ask for one of the outside rooms that overlook Grant St., the inside rooms are small, dark and dingy. Close to parking garages and walking distance to many restaurants, bars and attractions. Staff is friendly. Average Price $86.  edit

  • San Remo Hotel, 2237 Mason Street (on Mason near Lombard and Columbus, three blocks south of the main tourist area and near the other cable car line.), ☎ +1 415 776-8688 (), [42]. Check in: 2:00 PM to 10:00 PM and 11:00 PM on Friday and Saturday; Check out: 11:00am. At the other end of the spectrum is the San Remo Hotel, All rooms except a rooftop suite are under $100. It was built right after the 1906 earthquake, became apartments later, and has been nicely reconverted to a hotel. It appears to be a favorite place for European tourists. It is quiet, all non-smoking, has no room phones nor TVs, and shared baths. A nice and large Italian restaurant, Fior d`Italia, `The oldest Italian restaurant in the United States', has moved into its street floor. Average Price $80.  edit

  • S W Hotel Inc, 615 Broadway, ☎ +1 415 362-2999 (fax: +1 415 362-1808). Named after its owner Sam Wong, this budget hotel is decorated with everything Asian. The rooms are smaller than standard but it is situated in a very central location in Chinatown.  edit

  • St Paul Hotel, 935 Kearny Street, ☎ +1 415 986-9911, [43]. This budget hotel has 150 rooms and it is located in between Chinatown and North Beach, on Kearny street. You will have a sink in your room but you will have to share shower/bath rooms. Average Price $57.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Hotel Boheme, 444 Columbus Ave, +1 415 433-9111, (fax: +1 415 362-6292), [44]. Hotel Boheme is located in a popular Italian neighborhood with decorations that pay tribute to San Francisco's Beat Generation. The building may be hard to find, with only a single innocuous doorway covered by a small awning. Buzz at the door to enter but you get a key for this door on check in. Past the door is a steep and narrow staircase leading up to the next floor. On the second floor to the right of the landing is the hotel office. A bottle of Sherry surrounded by cordial glasses is set out for guests on the landing sideboard each night. Hotel staff are always friendly, helpful and knowledgeable about everything San Francisco. Average Price $184
  • The Orchard Garden Hotel, 466 Bush Street, ☎ +1 415 399-9807 (, fax: +1 415 393-9917). A stylish eco-friendly hotel, claiming to be San Francisco's 'greenest' hotel, this lodging gets almost universally good reviews. edit

  • Hotel des Arts‎, 447 Bush St., ☎ +1 415 956-4322 (, fax: +1 415 956-0399), [45]. The hotel displays the work of contemporary local artists. Average price $186.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Washington Square Inn, 1660 Stockton Street, ☎ +1 415 981-4220 or 1-800-388-0220 (, fax: +1 415 397-7242), [46]. This inn strives to offer the comforts of a small European hotel. Amenities include free wireless Internet access, complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea, evening hors d'oeuvres and wine, and full office services in the lobby. Rooms feature European antiques, cable TV, soft robes and private baths. Some rooms have sitting areas in bay windows, while others offer a cozy atmosphere with private fireplaces. Views from the hotel include Coit Tower, Russian Hill, Washington Square Park and the Cathedral of Saint Peter and Paul. Average Price $215.  edit

  • Ritz-Carlton San Francisco, 600 Stockton Street, ☎ +1 415 296-7465. Check in: 3pm; Check out: 12:00am. This hotel has a spacious lounge, fitness center, pool, and 4 star dining room in a Beaux-Arts building. It has 336 guestrooms, including 60 suites. From $300 and up.  edit

  • San Francisco Hilton Hotel, 750 Kearny Street, ☎ +1 415 433-6600 (fax: +1 415 765-7891), [47]. Situated at the nexus of Chinatown, North Beach and the Financial District, this 27 storey hotel has some stunning views over the city and of San Francisco Bay. Average Price $306.  edit

  • Hotel Triton, 342 Grant Avenue, ☎ +1 415 394-0500 (fax: +1 415 394-0555), [48]. Located just outside Chinatown, directly across from the south gate. Trendy, modern, and a little pricey. But the rooms are nicely appointed, and they offer a free tasting of local wines every afternoon. Average Price $289.  edit

[edit] Contact

  • San Francisco Public Library - Chinatown Branch, 1135 Powell St., ☎ +1 415 355-2888, [49]. Sun 1-5, M 1-9, Tu 10-9 W, 10-9 Th, 10-6 F, 1-6 Sat, 10-6.  edit
  • San Francisco Public Library - North Beach Branch, 2000 Mason Street, ☎ +1 415 355-5626, [50]. Sun Closed, M 12-6, Tu 10-9, W 1-9, Th 10-6, F 1-6, Sat 1-6.  edit

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