From Wikitravel

Chinatown-North Beach in San Francisco combines two adjoining neighbors, both of whom are among the city's most popular immigrant neighborhoods. Culturally, and aesthetically, they could not be more different yet their streets mesh seamlessly together. Chinatown is the oldest and one of the largest Chinatowns in the US. More than just a tourist destination, it is a functioning, living and breathing Chinese community that can offer intriguing cultural experiences even to the most jaded old China hand. Its tiny and crowded streets bristle with activity and energy. North Beach, on the other hand, is much more laid back. This 'Little Italy', with its cafes and alfresco dining, has a real European charm and flavor reminiscent of the romance of Europe and Italy. The area runs from roughly Bay Street to the north, Columbus Avenue and Powell Street on the west, San Francisco Bay on the east, and Washington Street on the south with an extension to Sutter Street between Kearny and Powell Streets to encompass the rest of Chinatown.

[edit] Understand

[edit] Chinatown

With pagoda-tiled roofs, Cantonese conversations, busy live-produce markets, mahjong players, and little old Chinese ladies confidently spitting on the pavement - Chinatown is a unique part of San Francisco. Established in 1850, in the area around Portsmouth Plaza, San Francisco's Chinatown [1] is reputed to be the oldest and one of the largest and most famous of all Chinatowns outside of Asia. Many of the Chinese who settled here were merchants or immigrant workers, working on either the transcontinental railroad or as mine workers during the Gold Rush. Today, it is home for more than 15,000 Chinese and Chinese-Americans, many of whom are low-income, elderly, and foreign born, living in dense tenements. It is also a cultural link for the hundreds of thousand Chinese and Chinese-Americans in the San Francisco Bay Area. Chinatown holds a prominent position in the history of Chinese and Chinese-Americans in the United States, from the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 to the present day. The residual "bachelor" society one finds in San Francisco's Chinatown today cannot be understood without some knowledge of these hostile decades. The tourist section of Chinatown is mainly along Grant Avenue, from Bush to Broadway. Grant Avenue was made famous by Rodgers and Hammerstein's Flower Drum Song. The Chinatown market area is mainly along Stockton Street, one block above (west of) Grant Avenue, and the east-west streets crossing Stockton. Other San Francisco concentrations of Chinese shops and restaurants are located in the Inner Richmond District, mainly along Clement, and the Outer Sunset District, mainly along Irving.

[edit] North Beach

Forming part of the old Barbary Coast (an extinct neighborhood infamous for its crime, prostitution, and general unruliness), and popular with both locals and tourists alike, North Beach remains one of the most popular and beloved neighborhoods in San Francisco. Nestled between Chinatown to the south and Fisherman's Wharf to the north, North Beach is the Italian part of town and is known by the moniker 'Little Italy'. Telegraph poles, painted in the colors of the Italian flag (green, white, and red), delineate the boundaries between these two neighbors. It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, and is rich in both history and culture. The neighborhood derived its name as the Bay shoreline originally reached as far as Taylor and Francisco streets, and the area was indeed a real beach until the city subsequently filled it in. The portion of Grant Avenue that runs straight through North Beach is the oldest street in San Francisco. Authentic old-world Italian cafes, restaurants, delicatessens and bakeries line the steep streets. North Beach was also the West Coast's capital for the Beatnik movement in the 1950's. Today, the neighborhood is also very well known for its happening nightlife scene. Nightclubs and bars abound - particularly at the intersection of Columbus and Grant streets. At its base, Broadway is a mini red-light district with adult bookstores and strip clubs; despite this, strangely, like everything in San Francisco, it retains a certain charm. Washington Square, in front of the Saints Peter and Paul Church, is a very popular hangout with locals, and a great place to relax. North Beach has also some famous residents - past and present, like baseball legend Joe DiMaggio and movie director Francis Ford Copolla.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By car

Driving into the area is not recommended, but if you must, the closest parking garage to Chinatown is underneath Portsmouth Plaza, on Kearny Street (which is a one-way street north) between Clay and Washington. Other Chinatown garages are the Golden Gateway at 250 Clay Street, North Beach at 755 Vallejo Street, and St. Mary's Square at 433 Kearny Street. All garages are open 24 hours a day, except for Golden Gateway. There are also a few small parking garages scattered throughout North Beach, including Imperial Parking at 425 Broadway Street. Driving to the base of Coit Tower is definitely not recommended, as there is a very limited amount of parking at the top of the hill.

[edit] By cable car

Each of the three Cable Car lines pass through Chinatown. If you exit BART or the MUNI Metro at the Powell St. Station you can catch the Powell-Mason or the Powell-Hyde cable car line at Powell and Market. Both routes will take you into Chinatown, but the Powell-Mason line is a better bet for getting to North Beach as the Powell-Hyde line turns west at Jackson and proceeds into Russian Hill. To reach Chinatown's famous Grant Avenue via the cable car, exit BART or the MUNI Metro at the Embarcadero Station and catch the California cable car line at California and Market.

[edit] By bus

Of course, if you'd rather avoid the long lines and crowded trip that a cable car ride entails, there are several good MUNI [2] bus lines that serve the area. To get to Chinatown from the BART/MUNI Metro, exit at the Montgomery Street Station, walk one block up Post Street, and catch the 30-Stockton or 45-Union SF-Muni bus line on Kearny near Post. The 30 or 45 bus will turn left onto Sutter and then right onto Stockton; after passing through the Stockton Tunnel, the bus will stop twice in Chinatown, on Stockton near Clay and on Stockton near Pacific. To get to North Beach from Market Street, the 9X-San Bruno Express, 10-Townsend, 20-Columbus, 30 or 45 lines will do nicely. From the east, the 1-California and 12-Folsom/Pacific lines pass through Chinatown. The 39-Coit goes from Fisherman's Wharf up to the Coit Tower, but can be obstructed by traffic that clogs the parking lot there, but there are plans to change this.

[edit] On foot

Chinatown is also an easy walk from Union Square (walk north on Stockton through the tunnel or north on Grant through the Chinatown Gate at Grant and Bush). Similarly, North Beach can be easily accessed by walking northbound from Market Street, straight through the Financial District. Both neighborhoods can also be easily reached from Market Street by simply walking northbound on Grant Avenue. To get to the area from Fisherman's Wharf, walk southbound straight down Columbus Avenue.

[edit] Get around

There can be little doubt that once you have arrived in the Chinatown-North Beach area, by far the best way to get around is on foot. Due to the busy and cluttered nature of both neighborhoods, and also because of the lack of parking options, driving around is certainly not recommended - especially in Chinatown. Buses however can also be a help, particularly when you are going in a North-South direction (or vice versa). Pedicabs [3] also operate a route along the Embarcadero and through Chinatown and then North Beach. Stop one of them if they're empty and negotiate a price. For a bit extra many of them do walking tours of Chinatown.

There are many more parks, public seating, and cafes with curbside tables in North Beach, so why not see Chinatown first. That way, by the time you'd made it through its bustling streets you'll be ready for a coffee and a sit down in North Beach.

[edit][add listing] See

• Stockton Street Produce Markets, Stockton St (runs parallel to Grant Street, one block west - between Sacramento to Vallejo). The fruit, vegetable and live produce markets on Stockton Street are a must for any adventurous traveler. The greatest concentration of Chinese shops and Chinese shoppers can be found in the three blocks from Washington to Broadway. They are notoriously busy, and not for the faint of heart as locals deftly paw over each and every piece of fruit...you have to be quick! Tangerines are important during Chinese New Years. You may need a gut check as well in the live produce markets - there are all kinds of live fauna flapping about from frogs and turtles, to chickens and ducks. The best time to explore Stockton Street is on weekdays; weekends are even more crowded, when Chinese families that have moved up to the suburbs return for shopping on Stockton Street. To avoid the crowds, explore the area in the morning or late afternoon. Many of the shops close around 6pm, but the eateries will remain open into the evening hours. Free.  edit

• Chinatown Alleys. Though Grant Avenue has a lot to offer, it is quite touristy; thus, it is essential that you examine the more authentic areas in the alleys, such as Waverly Place, Pagoda Place, Spofford Lane and Ross Alley, between Grant and Stockton. Ross Alley is the oldest alley in the city and many movies have had scenes shot here including Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. These alleys have got a real old-world feel and you will hear Cantonese conversations and the clicking sound of mahjong tiles being shuffled. Free.  edit

• Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, 56 Ross Alley, ☎ + 1 415 781-3956. Daily 7AM-8:30PM. Opened in 1962, this tiny factory produces more than 20,000 fortune cookies a day. The factory is in a small alley and it is tiny with only 3 people making fortune cookies. Tourists are welcome to walk in off the street - you get a flat (un-bended) fortune cookie sample but photos cost 50 cents and the moment you walk in they are asking you in their broken English what cookies you want to buy. It is a must see though! Free.  edit

• City Lights Bookstore, 261 Columbus Ave (at Broadway St), ☎ +1 415 362-8193 (fax: +1 415 362-4921), [4]. Daily 10AM-Midnight. Co-founded by Beat poet Lawrence Ferlenghetti, City Lights was one of the centers of the Beat community in the 1950s. It's iconic and has become synonymous with the Beat movement. Oh, don't forget to check out the books! Free.  edit

• Jack Kerouac Alley, Jack Kerouac Alley (at Columbus Ave. and Broadway St.). This tiny paved pedestrian alley was named after the famous Beat Generation writer Jack Kerouac who used to hang out in the alley a lot. It was intended to form a literary (and actual) connection between the communities of Chinatown and North Beach. There are plaques embedded into the street which are engraved with Chinese and Western poems from Kerouac, Confucius and John Steinbeck among others. Free.  edit

The Lonely Meter Similar to paved streets, the Filbert Steps have fire hydrants, road signs, and a solitary parking meter. The parking meter, numbered 568 47610, is hidden on a landing off the stairs. 568 47610 is notable for several reasons. Foremost, 568 47610 does not serve any apparent parking space; instead it tends a remote bench with which it shares a wooden platform. Together the platform, bench and meter offer visitors a welcome rest from the steps with a view of North Beach and the bay. The parking meter also boasts a small Buddha, which is glued to its top. 568 47610 is not a functioning unit: inserting quarters will not buy you any time; however, it is a good time.

• Telegraph Hill. Telegraph Hill earned its name in the days of the Gold Rush when it was used as a signaling post to relay messages about incoming ships to the Bay. Coit Tower was erected at its peak in 1933 and rewards a weary traveler with some wonderful views over the city. Over time a quiet residential neighborhood built up along the hillside, and their magnificent flowing gardens have always been something to admire on your way up or down. Other neighbors include a colony of colorful feral parrots, predominantly red-masked parakeets, which grew up as descendants of escaped domesticated pets....Freedom! One can drive to the top, but it's better to take one of the narrow steps leading up and down the sides of the hill (including the Greenwich and Filbert Steps), as they offer better views over the Bay. Free.  edit

• Filbert Steps. The Filbert Steps are the part of Filbert Street that runs between Battery Street and Telegraph Hill Boulevard in North Beach, San Francisco. The steps end next to Coit Tower, and offer a scenic - though some what strenuous - route for visitors of the tower. In fact, following the steps is at times faster than driving to Coit Tower due to the high demand for relatively few parking spots near the site. Visitors of the steps will see public gardens, stylish homes and views of North Beach and the bay; if a path is not gated or specifically signed with "No Trespassing," then it is most likely public. Also, it pays to be adventurous: some of the best gardens and views are off the stairs. Finally, there is more than one way up and down; if you make a round trip you should find a new route for the return leg. Just avoid private property. Free.

[edit] Museums and galleries

• Chinese Culture Center, 750 Kearny St, 3rd floor (From Portsmouth Square: just walk across the footbridge that crosses Kearny St. to the Hilton Hotel), ☎ +1 415 986-1822 (info@c-c-c.org, fax: +1 415 986-2825), [5]. Tu-Sa 10AM-4PM. The center was established in order to promote understanding of Chinese and Chinese American history, art, and culture in the US. They have a small gallery with changing Chinese art exhibitions. Free.  edit

• Chinese Historical Society of America Museum & Learning Center, 965 Clay St., ☎ +1 415 391-1188 (info@chsa.org, fax: +1 415 391-1150), [6]. Tu–F 12PM–5PM, Sa 11AM–4PM, Su–M closed. This is well worth a visit, with exhibits on the history and experience of Chinese immigrants to San Francisco over the past 150 years. $3 adults, $2 students/seniors, $1 children.  edit

• Kee Fung Ng Gallery, 757 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 434-1844. Has an extensive collection of scroll paintings, framed art work, statues and other carvings. They also personalize signature stone seals for you as you wait, and can help you with the process of selecting the style and Chinese characters to use. Free.  edit

• Stylers Art Gallery, 661 Jackson St, ☎ +1 415 788-8639. Enjoy authentic Chinese artwork at this tiny gallery. They also offer classes in calligraphy for those who want to take their appreciation a step further. Free.  edit

• Beat Museum, 540 Broadway St (at Columbus), ☎ 1-800-537-6822, [7]. M Closed, Tu-Su 10AM-10PM. Features quite an extensive collection of exhibits, books and manuscripts etc., that focus on Jack Kerouac and the literary Beat Generation. Plenty of books and T-Shirts for sale here as well. $5.  edit

• North Beach Museum, 1435 Stockton St, ☎ + 1 415 391-6210. M-Th 9AM-4PM, F 9AM-6PM, Sa-Su Closed. Photographs, pictures and artifacts that shed light on the rich history of North Beach. Free.  edit

[edit] Temples and churches

• Old St. Mary's Church, 660 California St, ☎ +1 415 288-3800, [8]. This is a Chinatown landmark. A beautiful brick building, it is the oldest Roman Catholic church in San Francisco. Free.  edit

• Tin How Temple (天后古廟), 125 Waverly Place, 4th floor. Daily 10AM-4PM. This tiny temple is the oldest Taoist temple in the country. It is dedicated to Matsu, the Taoist goddess of the Sea. Hundreds of gold and red colored lanterns adorn the ceilings, whose relative size depends on the size of the donation made. The lanterns are inscribed with the name of the donor, in the hope that it will bring them a long and fulfilling life. Free (Donations accepted).  edit

• Norras Temple, 109 Waverly St, ☎ +1 415 362-1993. Daily 10AM-4PM. This is the oldest Buddhist temple in the city and was named after the Norras Buddhist Temple in Tibet. It has an impressive gilded-wood altar that was imported from China. Free.  edit

• Matsu Temple, 30 Beckett St. Dedicated to Matsu, goddess of the Sea, but has only been around since 1986. Free, a small donation will get you a good luck charm to wear around your neck.  edit

• First Chinese Baptist Church, 15 Waverly Place, ☎ +1 415 362-4139 (office@fcbc-sf.org, fax: +1 415 362-7644), [9]. Established in the year 1880, as one of the oldest churches in the city, it is worth a visit. It was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, but rebuilt with the help of American Baptists across the US. It is known as a bilingual and bicultural church and its ministry has historically reached out to immigrants and newcomers. Free.  edit

• Buddhas Universal Church, 720 Washington St, ☎ +1 415 982-6116 (bucsf@sbcglobal.net, fax: +1 415 421-3325), [10]. At five stories tall, this is the largest Buddhist church in the US and is home to the largest Buddhist congregation in San Francisco. The altar was shaped to represent the ship of the Dharma (teachings of the Buddha) and its teak-paneled walls are supposed to be the sails of the ship. Free.  edit

• Kong Chow Temple, 855 Stockton St, ☎ +1 415 788-1339. Founded in 1857, this is a Taoist temple in honor of the God of honesty and trust - the deity, Kuan Ti. It has many colorful altars, where color is used as metaphor - green for longevity, red warns off evil spirits, and gold projects majesty. Free - donations accepted.  edit

• St. Francis of Assisi Church, 610 Vallejo St, ☎ +1 415 983-0405 (ShrineSF@flash.net, fax: +1 415 983-0407), [11]. Daily 11AM-5PM. Established during the days of the Gold Rush, this Church does not host an active parish, however it still functions as a national shrine and tribute to St. Francis of Assisi. It also has a gift shop where you can purchase crosses, frescoes, rosaries, holy cards, as well as many other trinkets. Free.  edit

• Sts. Peter and Paul Church, 660 Filbert St (overlooking Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 421-5219 (fax: +1 415 421-1831), [12]. A white statuesque, neo-Gothic Roman Catholic Cathedral situated directly in front of Washington Square. After Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe wed at City Hall in 1954, they were famously photographed afterwards at the this Church. Free.  edit

[edit] Architecture

Much of the architecture in Chinatown and North Beach was destroyed by the 1906 earthquake and subsequent fire. However, there are still some structures that are worth seeing including the Saints Peter and Paul Church and Old Saint Mary's Church, listed under Temples and Churches above. Chinatown is a mix of Edwardian and Chinoiserie architecture that was built after the fire and it has some interesting pagoda buildings. It may not be authentic Chinese architecture, but it retains a certain charm. The Chinese here also eschewed the traditional grid system of American cities, and a whole series of interesting alleys permeate through Chinatown. Other architectural points of interest include:

• Chinatown Gate, Grant Avenue (Grant Avenue and Bush Street). Erected in 1970, this ornate dragon-crested gate, marks the southern entrance to Chinatown. The Gateway is inscribed with the saying "All under heaven is for the good of the people," by Dr. Sun Yat-sen. Free.  edit

• Bank of Canton, 743 Washington St (between Kearny Street and Grant Avenue). M-Th 9AM-5PM, F 9AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-4PM. Built in 1891, it was destroyed and rebuilt in 1909, originally the building housed the country's only Chinese telephone exchange. The exchange closed in 1949 and the building was subsequently restored and turned into a bank in 1960. The building was arguably the first important building in Chinatown. It is a three-tiered pagoda style building. Free.  edit

• Sing Fat Building and Sing Chong Building (at the corner of California Street and Grant Ave). Two great examples of multi-tiered pagoda buildings on opposite sides of the intersection. The Sing Chong Building was one of the first buildings to rebuild after the fire, and today it is one of the most photographed buildings in the city. Free.  edit

• Bank of America, 701 Grant Ave (at Sacramento St). Pagoda style building with a three tiered roof and decorated with ornate gold dragons and medallions on the outside. Free.  edit

• Engine No. 1 - Firehouse, 451 Pacific Ave. One of the original Fire Houses in the city, it used horse-drawn equipment, it was built in 1868. It was subsequently destroyed by the 1906 fire (ironically!) and was rebuilt in 1909 by architect Newton J. Tharp as a two-story building with large arched entrance. The new architecture was heavily influenced by the 'City Beautiful' movement. Free.  edit

• Columbus Tower/Sentinel Building, 916 Columbus Ave. This flatiron (wedge shaped) copper-green building is an unmistakable San Francisco beauty. The 'Grateful Dead' once recorded some of their songs there. Today it is owned by movie-director, Francis Ford Copolla. It now has a cafe on its ground floor, where you can grab a coffee whilst admiring its impressive setting, at the foot of North Beach. Free.  edit

• Coit Tower, 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd (limited parking; or take #39 Muni bus from Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 362-0808 (mzakheim@earthlink.net), [13]. Every day, 10AM-5PM. Visible from all parts of San Francisco and the Bay Area, Coit Tower stands atop Telegraph Hill, and gives an excellent view of the rest of the Bay. The tower was built by the Federal Works Projects Administration in 1933 with money bequeathed by eccentric San Franciscan Lillie Coit. Coit was told to have chased after firefighters as a young girl, and as an older woman sponsored her favorite fire company. A fan of the volunteer city firefighters, and local legend has it that the shape of the tower is supposed to simulate the end of a fire hose -- although the architects denied this claim. The first and second floors house beautiful examples of New Deal-era idealist murals, and the top floor (reached by elevator) has featured paintings or other art. Artists put in their own signatures and messages in the murals, which interpretive plaques point out. $3 (elevator to top floor; the rest is free).  edit

[edit] Parks, monuments, and public art

• Portsmouth Square (花園角廣場) (bordered by Kearny Street, Washington Street, Clay Street, and Walter Lum Place). This is the largest area of open space in Chinatown. It is known as the "Heart of Chinatown" because the neighborhood began along one of its sides and extended from there to become what we know as Chinatown today. The square bristles with activity, and here you find local residents playing cards or Chinese chess, and practicing Tai Chi. The square contains several memorials, statues, and plaques - including a bronze replica of the Goddess of Democracy statue and a marker commemorating Robert Louis Stevenson. Free.  edit

• St. Mary's Park (聖瑪利公園 ) (south side of California Street, opposite Old St. Mary's Church). 6AM-10PM. This park boasts an Art Deco statue of Sun Yat-Sen, created by sculptor Benny Bufano in the 1930s. It also has a plaque commemorating those soldiers of Chinese ancestry that died in both World Wars. Free.  edit

• Woh Hei Yuen Park (和喜園 ) (at Powell St. between John and Jackson streets.). Small park and recreation center that has some interesting public art like the Five Carved Stones by Marcia Donahue and Tectonic Melange by Lampo Leong. Its name translates to "Garden of Peace and Joy". Free.  edit

• Ping Yen Mural (at Stockton St and Pacific Ave). Created by Darryl Mar, this mural celebrates the history of Chinatown and what life is like there today. Free.  edit

• Chinese Railroad Workers Mural, 827 Stockton St (on the Chinese Charity Cultural Services Center between Sacramento St and Clay St). A mural by Amy Nelder, depicting the early Chinese workers who settled the area in the 1870's to work on the transcontinental railroad. Unfortunately, they were often the subject of racism, ignorance, and intolerance. Free.  edit

• Washington Square (Union & Powell). Every day, 8AM-10AM. Locals practice tai-chi, the martial art and meditation practice. Different sections of the park will host everything from jazzercise to sword-play. Sunny days will bring out locals lounging on their blankets. Art fairs are frequent, and the oyster-beer fair in March is very popular [14]. Note the sculpture to volunteer firefighters on the Columbus Ave side. The Sts. Peter and Paul church of the Salesians borders the northern side. Joe Dimaggio and Marilyn Monroe were photographed outside of the church, but they could not be married inside because she was divorced. Monroe and Dimaggio had their reception around the corner at a place which is now called 'Pena Pacha Mama' (Powell St between Union & Green). Free.  edit

• Juana Briones Monument, Stockton and Filbert, [15]. See the monument erected in honor of this humanitarian and pioneer settler of Yerba Buena (now North Beach). Free.  edit

• Pioneer Park (atop Telegraph Hill). This park sits atop Telegraph Hill and surrounds the base of Coit Tower. It has some excellent 360 degree vistas around the city and there are some coin operated binoculars to help you enjoy the view. Free.  edit

• Sydney G. Walton Square, Front and Davis, Pacific and Jackson Streets. Small (one square block), well maintained park/square in the heart of the city, its located right beside the financial district. Tai Chi practitioners exercise here in the early morning hours. Free.  edit

• Levi's Plaza Park, 1160 Battery Street. Daily, 24 hours a day. Located in front of the Levi Strauss headquarters, this immaculately kept little park is perhaps the perfect spot for a picnic...especially if you're exhausted after climbing over Telegraph Hill! It has a soothing fountain as its centerpiece. Having said that, ever present security guards at the park can bring you down from your mellow moments here...just don't dip your feet in the water! Free.  edit

[edit][add listing] Do

• Jun Yu’s Barber Shop, 32 Ross Alley. Need a haircut? Why not let one of Chinatown's local celebrities cut it for you. Since 1963, this elderly Chinese barber has sheared the locks of some of Hollywood's best including Michael Douglas and Sinatra. The photos in the front window tell the story. When he has no customers to attend to, he breaks out a violin and Ross Alley fills with his tune. edit

• Beach Blanket Babylon, Club Fugazi, 678 Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard (at Green Street), ☎ +1 415 421-4222 (bbb@beachblanketbabylon.com), [16]. This zany Steve Silver cabaret, is the longest running musical revue in US theater history. The show is an internationally acclaimed San Francisco institution, and famous for its use of enormous hats, some of which are up to ten feet tall! It has even been seen by Queen Elizabeth. edit

• The Purple Onion, 140 Columbus Ave, ☎ +1 415 956-1653 (sciuesciue@caffemacaroni.com), [17]. Catch a show at this famous and influential cellar comedy club. It has hosted comedy greats such as a Robin Williams and Woody Allen among others. edit

• Walking Tours. Walking is not only the most environmentally friendly way to see this area, it is also undoubtedly the best way, as it allows one to experience its rich ambiance and charms first hand. A knowledgeable guide can be a big help in this regard, and several companies offer different kinds of walking tours through both Chinatown and North Beach: edit

• San Francisco City Guides, ☎ +1 415 557-4266 (tours@sfcityguides.org), [18]. Take an informative and free tour of either North Beach or Chinatown from the people who know it best - the locals. Free.  edit

• Barbary Coast Trail, ☎ +1 415 454-2355 (info@barbarycoasttrail.org), [19]. Take a tour of San Francisco's historic Barbary Coast. A series of bronze medallions and arrows are embedded into the sidewalks and help you navigate through the Barbary Coast Trail’s historic sites. You can either download a map ($8.95) or audio tour ($25) or take one of their guided tours which are available by appointment only ($22 per person with a $352 minimum). edit

• Culinary Walking Tour of North Beach and Little Italy, Departs: Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Shop at 569 Columbus Avenue at Washington Square Park. Daily (except December 25, 26, January 1, and Easter), 10am, 2pm. North Beach is famous for its food and cafe culture, so why not take a four hour guided tour of its family bakeries, sidewalk cafés and traditional Italian pastry shops. The tour includes an authentic Italian meal as well as a narration of North Beach history. Adult, $89; Child (14 & under), $69 - Included: Narration, Food Not Included: Gratuities.  edit

• GraceAnn Walden's SF North Beach Walking tours, ☎ +1 415 302-5898 (gaw@sbcglobal.net), [20]. Every Saturday, restaurant critic and radio personality GraceAnn Walden conducts a walking tour of North Beach. The tour includes a historical narration, and it takes you to see a 125 year old brick-oven bakery, a stylish restaurant, and an Italian bakery. Lunch accompanied by wine is included. Reservations are necessary. Private tours of North Beach are available on weekdays for 12 or more. The tour was named one of the 100 Best Things about San Francisco by Gourmet Magazine. $80 all inclusive.  edit

• Local Tastes of the City Tours, ☎ +1 415 665-0480, [21]. They offer an affordable $59 3 hour tour of North Beach, starting at either 10AM or 2PM. You get to sample coffees, handmade chocolates, pastries, breads and olive oils. A historical lecture accompanies the tour and they will take you to some of the old Beat Generation hangouts. They also offer a separate 3 hour tour of Chinatown starting either 10AM or 2PM. Here you will get to sample Chinese Teas and Dim Sum, as well as see how fortune cookies are made at the Fortune Cookie Factory. Finally, they do a combined 2 hour night tour of both Chinatown and North Beach which starts at 6PM and also costs $59. edit

[edit] Events and festivals

• Chinese New Year Festivities, [22]. Celebrated for over 5,000 years, the San Francisco version of the Chinese New Year dates back to the Gold Rush Days. The parade is colorful, vibrant and loud; with decorative costumes, lions, deafening firecrackers, 'lucky-money' envelopes, colorful banners, over 100 ornately themed floats, martial arts groups, stilt walkers, acrobats, and of course a 200 foot Golden Dragon that has a six foot-long head...Alright? Free.  edit

• Autumn Moon Festival, ☎ +1 415 982-6306 (info@moonfestival.org), [23]. 11AM-6PM each day. Commemorating the autumn equinox, a full moon, and Chang O (an immortal Goddess that lives in the moon), this festival is an important event in the Chinese lunar calendar. It has parallels with America's Thanksgiving Day, as it encourages contemplation and giving thanks for the rich bounty of the summer harvest. The festivities include, Chinese acrobats, lions, music, dance and Chinese opera among other things. Free.  edit

• Oyster Beer Festival, Usually takes place in Washington Square, ☎ + 1 415 989-6222, [24]. Fun festival centered around the simple pleasures of Guinness Stout and Oysters. Lots of live entertainment and events such as the 'Shuck and Suck Competition' and Irish dancing. General Admission: $15 in advance; $19 at the door, Reserved Seating Tickets $50.  edit

• North Beach Festival, Washington Square Park, 1200-1500 blocks of Grant Avenue and adjacent streets in North Beach, [25]. Takes place in Mid June. A North Beach tradition that celebrates its Italian heritage. It features live music and entertainment, poetry readings, classical concerts, dancing, ArtE di Gesso (chalk art on the street), and varied Arts and Crafts Exhibitions. Free.  edit

• Art in the Alley (between City Lights Bookstore and Vesuvio at Columbus and Broadway), [26]. Taking place twice a year in Kerouac Alley (a beautiful, if tiny, cobble stoned alley that was named after Jack Kerouac), this is an open-air art exhibition that showcases the work of local artists. edit

• Columbus Day Parade (all along Columbus Avenue), ☎ +1 415 703-9888 (parade@sfcolumbusday.org), [27]. Starts at 12:30. This parade, which celebrates Christopher Columbus and Italian heritage, attracts almost half a million spectators each year. The parade dates all the way back to 1869, making it the city's oldest civic event. Handmade floats run all the way from Fisherman's Wharf, and up Columbus Avenue as far as Vallejo Street, where the parade does a 180 finishing in Washington Square. Free.  edit

[edit][add listing] Buy

Chinatown and North Beach are unique immigrant neighborhoods, and consequently there are almost no large chain-stores to be found. In Chinatown, Grant Avenue is the main shopping thoroughfare for tourists. Here you will find Oriental handicrafts of all descriptions, from jade statues, to Asian rugs and kimonos. It also has many souvenir stores and small market stalls that sell typical tourist knickknacks. Stockton street runs parallel to Grant on its west, and has many fresh produce and household ware stores that are popular with locals. North Beach has predominantly small boutique stores selling mostly clothing and jewelry, arts and handicrafts, furniture and Italian wares. Here is a selection of the stores available;

• Imperial Tea Court, 1411 Powell St, ☎ +1 415 788-6080 (imperial@imperialtea.com), [28]. Opened in 1993 it features authentic, hand-crafted Chinese teas. The selection includes; organic, white, green, oolong, black, pu-erh, herbal, yellow and scented teas.  edit

• Bookmarks, Ross Alley (near the beginning, and on the left hand side Ross Alley, when entering from Jackson Street). Tired of the same old souvenir stores? Looking for a more authentic souvenir? Down Ross Alley you'll sometimes find an old Chinese man in a doorway, who for a few dollars, will inscribe your name in the Chinese alphabet onto a handcrafted bookmark.  edit

• Asian Image, 800 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 398-2602. Two floors of sartorial treasures such as velvet jackets and Thai silk shirts. It also sells Asian books and many other eclectic Asian wares. edit

• China Station, 456-460 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 397-4848. If you like reasonably priced souvenirs, this is the place for you. They have a very broad selection, selling everything from Chinese exercise balls to Buddha statues.  edit

• Dragon House, 455 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 781-2351 (dragonhousesf@gmail.com, fax: +1 415 781-2351), [29]. Sells genuine antiques and fine art from China, Japan, Tibet and Mongolia.  edit

• Peking Bazaar, 826-832 Grant Ave (between California St & Sacramento St), ☎ +1 415 982-9847. Daily 10AM-10PM. Huge sprawling store selling a wide range of discount imported goods from Asia including lanterns, candles, sarongs, silk kimonos, geisha outfits and Chinese dolls.  edit

• A. Cavalli & Co, 1441 Stockton St, ☎ +1 415 421-4219. Daily 9:30AM-5:30PM. This shop with its friendly proprietor sells everything Italian, from ornate imported espresso and pasta makers, to Italian newspapers, magazines, CDs, and DVDs. edit

• Biordi Arts, 412 Columbus Ave, ☎ +1 415 392-8096, [30]. For 50 years the owners have been selling imprinted Renaissance style Italian Majolica as well as Italian Hand painted Dinnerware.  edit

• Goorin Brothers Hat Makers, 1612 Stockton St (at Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 402-0454 (fax: +1 415 431.9199), [31]. M-F 11AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 11AM-4PM. These guys are determined to bring hats back in a big way. Along the way they've had many famous customers including Tom Cruise and JayZ. How big is your head? edit

• Coit Liquor, 585 Columbus Ave, ☎ +1 415 986-4036 (team@coitliquor.com, fax: +1 415 296-7825), [32]. Selling wines, spirits and beers for over 40 years, they specialize in the varieties that are hardest to find. They have an extensive Southern-Italian wine collection.  edit

• Trader Joe's, 401 Bay St, ☎ +1 415 351-1013. Daily 9AM-9PM. Probably the areas only supermarket chain, Trader Joe's is probably most famous for selling the Californian wine affectionately known as '2 buck Chuck' (Charles Shaw wine). edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:
Budget	$10 or less
Mid-range	$10 - 20
Splurge	$20 or more

The area is a veritable smorgasbord of dining opportunities, enough for even the most discerning palette. Chinatown is famous for its cheap eats (like Dim Sum) and 'family style' eating in restaurants. You can fill up here for as little as $3, but there are more expensive full service restaurants here as well. North Beach is generally pricier and the focus is mainly on Italian favorites like pizza, pasta and risotto, accompanied by a nice bottle of wine. With many of its restaurants situated directly on Columbus Avenue, it's a great place for alfresco style dining. There are however more affordable options in North Beach, including several great cafes, delis, and American diner style restaurants, where you can get a good quality meal at a more reasonable price.

[edit] Budget

• Sam Wo (三和粥粉麵), 813 Washington St (at Grant St), ☎ +1 415 982-0596. Daily 11AM-3AM. Well-known among Bay Area residents, this is a place that people either love or hate - food is cheap, service is terrible, and the conditions are squalid, but for some there is no better restaurant in all of Chinatown. The barbecue pork rolls are a favorite, and the wonton soup is terrific. $2.50-$8.  edit

• Dol Ho (多好茶室), 808 Pacific Ave (up from Stockton St), ☎ +1 415 392-2828. Closed on Wednesdays, Th-Tu 7AM-5PM. For excellent dim sum at a price that's a bargain compared to the touristy joints on Grant, this is a great place to eat. Most, if not all, of the clientele are Chinese, and this is a good thing. $1.75-$6.  edit

• Y Ben (會賓樓), 835 Pacific Ave (up from Stockton St), ☎ +1 415 397-3168. Daily 7AM-10PM. If Dol Ho is too much of a hole in the wall for your tastes, try Y Ben diagonally opposite just up the street for dim sum of similar excellent quality and low prices. $4-$32 (shark fin soup), most dishes are about $7.  edit

• Bow Hon (寶漢), 850 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 362-0601. Daily 11AM-10:30PM. This small restaurant serves traditional clay pot dishes. Cash only. $3.95-$10.  edit

• Uncle's Cafe, 65 Waverly Pl (At the corner of Clay and Waverly), ☎ +1 415 982-1954. Is authentic, and incredibly cheap. There are large portions, and the staff will warn you if you order too much food or an item that is too large for your party. Well worth the money and not overcrowded. $3.95-$12.  edit

• Vietnam Restaurant, 620 Broadway St (at Grant Ave), ☎ +1 415 788-7034. Daily 9AM-3AM. Situated right next-door to Sam's this is a healthier late night option to the burger and fries. The place is tiny (the open grill is right behind the cash-register), the decor dated, and the 3 Vietnamese ladies who run it are about as friendly as a poke in the eye, but the food is excellent, fresh, well seasoned, and very cheap. The crab soup is a favorite as is the inimitable $3.50 pork sandwich...yummm! $3.50-$10.  edit

• Taqueria Zorro, 308 Columbus Ave, ☎ +1 415 392-9677 (contactus@taqueriazorro.com, fax: +1 415 392-1299), [33]. Excellent little budget taqueria with good quality food at a very reasonable price. It's clean, the portions are generous and the service is excellent. They can sometimes put together a large burrito in less than a minute from time of order to time of eating....whoooa! Juke box and large screen TV in the back. $6-$10.  edit

• Sam's, 618 Broadway (at Grant Ave), ☎ +1 415 391-1539. M-F 11AM-9PM. If you like greasy but very tasty fast food then you've come to the right place. Sam's is a small dingy late night diner but they do a mean burger and fries. It’s very popular with local workers from the busy Broadway area. $5-$10.  edit

• Buster's, 366 Columbus Ave. (corner of Columbus Ave. and Vallejo St), ☎ +1 415 392-2800. Su-Th 11AM-12AM, F-Sa 11AM-2AM. Another classic late-night spot for the inebriated and starving. The sign outside says that they have the best Philly-cheese steaks in the city...almost certainly not true, but with its fresh ingredients - it’s pretty good nonetheless. They also do a very good burger at a reasonable price. Friendly staff and open late to cater to the party crowd. $5-$10.  edit

• Giordano Bros., 303 Columbus Ave (at Broadway Street), ☎ +1 415 397-BROS (fax: +1 415 397-2794). M-Th 11AM-12:30AM, F-Sa 11AM-2AM, Su 11AM-12:30AM. Enjoy a great sandwich? Well their creations were voted 'Best Sandwich' by the readers of SF Weekly. $7-$10.  edit

• BurgerMeister, 759 Columbus Ave, ☎ +1 415 296-9907, [34]. Daily 11AM-12AM. Excellent and varied selection of burgers at a reasonable price. Inside it has typical retro American-diner decor and the service is fast and friendly. This place is very popular and was voted "Best Burger 2007" in San Francisco by the readers of SF Weekly. $10-$12.  edit

• Curly's Coffee Shop, 1624 Powell St (close to Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 392-0144. M-F 7:30AM-4PM, Sa-Su 8AM-4PM. Basic and affordable diner food served here. Breakfast is very popular with the locals. $4-$10.  edit

• Pat's Cafe, 2330 Taylor St (at Columbus Ave), ☎ +1 415 776-8735, [35]. Breakfast and Lunch: M-F 7:30AM-3PM, Dinner: Th-M 5:30PM to 9PM. Charming little cafe serving traditional American fare, with friendly staff and very reasonable prices. $5-$10.  edit

• Rico's Fine Mexican Restaurant, 943 Columbus Ave (at Lombard St.), ☎ +1 415 928-5404 (fax: +1 415 776-5160). Daily 10AM-10PM. Popular Mexican restaurant at the northern end of North Beach. It has an extensive menu and the service is pretty good. $8-$20.  edit

[edit] Mid-range

• Hunan Home's Restaurant, 622 Jackson St, ☎ +1 415 982-2844 (bmw1688@aol.com, fax: +1 415 982-3508), [36]. F-Sa 11:30AM-10PM, Su-Th 11:30AM-9:30PM. Very highly rated Taiwanese food at a reasonable price. $9-$28.  edit

• Yuet Lee, 1300 Stockton St (at Broadway St), ☎ +1 415 982-6020. W-M 11AM-3AM. No-nonsense Chinese restaurant with an eclectic but authentic menu, with offerings like stir-fried Watercress and Fresh Frog Rice Soup. $8-$25.  edit

• House of Nanking, 919 Kearny St (Cross Street - Jackson), ☎ +1 415 421-1429. M-Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 12PM-9:30PM. An excellent low-brow sit-down Chinese restaurant. Let the waiter order for you. $6-$12.  edit

• Figaro, 414 Columbus Ave (between Green St. & Stockton St), ☎ +1 415 398-1300, [37]. Daily 5:30PM-11:30PM. Used to be a bakery in the 1920's, today its a cozy restaurant serving traditional authentic Italian cuisine. It has a heated patio garden at the back. $12-$24.  edit

• Calzone's Pizza Cucina, 430 Columbus Ave (between Green St. & Stockton St.), ☎ +1 415 397-3600, [38]. M-Su 11AM-1AM. You can't miss this restaurant - it's the one with the large awning and all the curbside tables that overlook Columbus Street. They make great fresh mojitos here and the pizza is pretty good too. $13-$20.  edit

• Michelangelo Cafe‎, 579 Columbus Ave (between Green St. and Stockton St.), ☎ +1 415 986-4058. M-Th 5PM-11PM, F-Sa 12PM-11PM, Su 12PM-10PM. Small, cozy and ornately decorated Italian restaurant in the heart of North Beach. Great service! Entrees $15-$25.  edit

• Mo's Gourmet Hamburgers, 1322 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 788-3779, [39]. Su-Th 9AM-10PM, F-Sa 9AM-11:30PM. American style diner that definitely has one of the best burgers in San Francisco. Mo's has a unique rotary-style grill in the front window to lure unsuspecting hungry people in. When you leave though - you will not be hungry - Mo's burgers are HUGE, and are best complimented with a frosted cold glass of beer! Burgers, fries and a coke around $12.  edit

• Bocadillos, 710 Montgomery St (at Washington St), ☎ +1 415 982-2622 (info@bocasf.com, fax: +1 415 982-0177), [40]. M-W 7AM-10PM, Th-F 7AM-10:30PM, Sa 5PM-10:30PM. Basque restaurant in North Beach, good champagne and rose wine selection. Menu favorites: Serrano ham, crab fritters. Tapas, small plates, moderately priced. Modern decor with windows onto Washington Street. Bubble Lounge is next door, also specializing in huge champagne collection. Gets very well-dressed crowd in after work and later evening. No line (yet) and serves parties up to 10, but small space. Entrees $9-$15.  edit

• Caffè Puccini, 411 Columbus Ave (at Vallejo Street), ☎ +1 415 989-7033. Daily 6AM-12AM. Puccini serves a mean cappuccino, but they also offer a delicious homemade lasagna. The walls are adorned with opera posters, and the sounds of Verdi and spoken Italian are in the air. Excellent tiramisu, the Italian layered custard and chocolate dessert. edit

• Iluna Basque, 701 Union St (at Powell St) (fax: +1 415 402-0099), [41]. Su-Th 5:30-10:30PM, F-Sa 5:30-11:30PM. One block kitty corner from Washington Street park on the Russian Hill side. Basque tapas plates, small, moderately priced. Great wine list. Founded by 23-year old restauranteur Mattina Noblia (former top chef at Piperade), hosts excellent meat and roasted options with a great glass of wine. Dark red curtains, late hours and great food. Entrees $10-$16.  edit

• L'Osteria del Forno, 519 Columbus Ave, ☎ +1 415 982-1124, [42]. Tuesday Closed, M, W-Sa 11:30AM-10:30PM, Su 11:30AM-10PM. No reservations. A charming, crowded locally known date restaurant, L'Osteria has a line out the door after 5PM, so arrive early. The small semi-surly staff cooks up wonderful, affordably-priced dishes in the kitchen's one oven, so things can take a little while... specials on the menu: the roast pork, baked penne, and salmon carpaccio are favorites. Excellent Italian wine selection by the glass and bottle. Cannot seat more than 4 in a party. Entrees $10-$18.  edit

• North Beach Pizza, 1499 Grant Ave (at Union Street), ☎ +1 415 751-2300, [43]. Daily 10AM-1AM. One of the best pizzas in the city, and right in the heart of North Beach. $8-$25.  edit

• Mama's, 1701 Stockton St (On Washington Square), ☎ +1 415 362-6421, [44]. Daily 8AM-3PM, Closed Mondays. Unbelievably popular place with locals, you only need to see how long the lines are outside at breakfast to understand the popularity of Mama's - it has become a North Beach institution. In 2007, it won Zagat's - "Best Breakfast in San Francisco" Breakfast and lunch go for about $9-$11.  edit

• Fog City Diner, 1300 Battery St (at the Embarcadero), ☎ +1 415 982-2000 (fax: +1 415 982-3711), [45]. M-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F 11:30AM-11PM, Sa 10:30AM-11PM, Su 10:30AM-10PM. Looking like a long shiny aluminum trailer from the outside, the famous Fog City Diner (it's the one from the old visa add) serves high-end all-American food. As it's so close to Fisherman’s Wharf, it is popular with both tourists and locals. $10-$20.  edit

[edit] Splurge

• Empress Of China, 838 Grant Ave, ☎ +1 415 434-1345 (info@empressofchinasf.com), [46]. Daily 11:30AM-10PM. At eight storeys high, this Chinese restaurant has excellent views to enjoy with your meal. The dining room is quite elegant and certainly ornate if a bit on the small side small. It's attracts mostly a tourist crowd, which probably says something about the food! $20-$45.  edit

• Great Eastern, 649 Jackson St (at Kearny St), ☎ +1 415 986-2500. Daily 10AM-2:45PM, 3:30PM-1AM. This place has a HUGE menu that focuses primarily on the fruits of the sea like Dungeness crab, oysters and giant prawns. They are also known for doing a pretty good duck. $12-$258.  edit

• Jai Yun, 680 Clay St, ☎ +1 415 981-7438, [47]. Daily 6:30PM-9:30PM. This quirky Chinese restaurant has a 'prix-fixe' menu and reservations are required. It serves excellent ornate Shanghai style dishes with a 'no-fuss' style table service. By the way, there is no fixed menu - it changes based upon what the chef selects that day. $30-$150.  edit

• Tommy Toy's Haute Cuisine, 655 Montgomery St (at Washington St.), ☎ +1 415 397-4888, [48]. M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:30PM-9:30PM, Sa-Su 5:30PM-9:30PM. Another high-end Chinese restaurant. It has both a 'prix-fix' seven course banquet and also an 'a la carte' menu as well. This restaurant gets rave reviews for its food and for its elegant decor. $20-$70.  edit

• The House, 1230 Grant St (at Columbus Ave), ☎ +1 415 986-8612, [49]. M-Th 11AM-3PM, 5:30PM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-3PM, 5:30PM-11PM, Su 5PM-10PM. Reservations recommended. The home of Asian fusion cuisine. The dining space is tiny, but the possible ensuing wait is worth it. Don't miss the scallop-topped Caesar salad or the often-imitated seared Ahi tuna. edit

• Steps of Rome Trattoria, 362 Columbus Ave (between Grant Ave. & Vallejo St.), ☎ +1 415 986-6480, [50]. M-F 5PM-10:30PM, Sa-Su 5PM-11PM. This small restaurant was voted “Best Italian 2004” by SF Weekly readers. It usually attracts a lot of young couples. $12-$35.  edit

• R & G Lounge, 631 Kearny St, ☎ +1 415 982-7877 (info@rnlounge.com), [51]. M-Su 11:30AM to 9:30PM. An authentic upscale Cantonese Restaurant and Lounge. All types of seafood including Salt and Pepper Crab. Entrees $10-$35.  edit

• Caffe Sport, 574 Green St (off Columbus Ave), ☎ +1 415 981-1251, [52]. Tu-Sa 12PM-2PM, 5PM-10:30PM. Italian food meets hippy bus. Plates of pasta served family style. Some very nice seafood pastas. They may bring what you order, or perhaps what the chef thinks would go together better. They have house wine, served in water tumblers. Small, a little noisy, a lot of fun. Opens special hours for World Cup faithful. Cash only. Entrees $15-$24.  edit

• Ristorante Gondola, 15 Columbus Ave (between Gibb St & Ils Ln), ☎ +1 415 956-5528. Lunch: M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM, Dinner: M-Th 5:30PM-10PM, F-Sa 5:30PM-10:30PM. Simple Italian with varied menu. Not in the crowded blocks so tends to have easy seating and less intrusive staff. The pumpkin ravioli is a favorite. Affordable, with excellent Italian wine selection. No restriction on size of party. Parking at Chinese Catholic Center on Jackson. $34-$45.  edit

• The Stinking Rose, 325 Columbus Ave (sfcomments@thestinkingrose.com), [53]. Daily 11AM-11PM.