San Carlos de Bariloche

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South America : Argentina : Patagonia : Rio Negro : San Carlos de Bariloche
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Bariloche is in the Río Negro Province, near the Nahuel Huapi National Park in Argentina.

[edit] Understand

San Carlos de Bariloche is a city in the province of Río Negro, Argentina, situated on the foothills of the Andes, surrounded by lakes (Nahuel Huapi, Gutiérrez Lake, Moreno Lake and Mascardi Lake) and mountains (Tronador, Cerro Catedral, Cerro López). It is famous for skiing but also great for sight-seeing, water sports, trekking and climbing. Another claim to fame is its Swiss-like atmosphere and its chocolate boutiques. Look for the St Bernard dogs on display for tourists.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

  • Lade flies from El Calafate [El_Calafate]. A ticket cost around Ar$260.
  • Aerolineas Argentinas [1] flies from Buenos Aires. A ticket costs around Ar$830 (Nov/05)
  • LAN Argentina [2] flies from Buenos Aires. A ticket costs around Ar$800 (us$270). Data of November 05
  • Lan Chile flies from Santiago twice a week. It is a pleasant flight over the Andes, and you don't have to change airports.

[edit] By car

To go by car to Bariloche from Buenos Aires takes about 22 hours. One of the best alternatives is to go to Neuquen on the first day (a distance of about 1200 Km) and then to continue the second day driving about 450 kilometers.

There is more than one route to get to Bariloche by car from Buenos Aires:

  • Short route: Take “Ruta Nacional Nº 5”, then take “Ruta Provincial Nº 1” nearby Lonquimay. Then, take “Ruta Provincial Nº 18” nearby “Macachin”. Take “Ruta Nacional Nº 35” south for 22 km, and then turn right and follow “Ruta Nacional Nº 152” through General Acha and until the “Casa de Piedra” where the route name changes to “ruta provincial Nº 6”. You must follow this until the intersection with “Ruta Nacional Nº 22”, where you must turn right again through CipollettiNeuquen. These big cities are connected by a bridge with an Ar $0.65 toll. Follow through the "million" traffic lights until you exit the city. Approximately 32 km later, stop in Arroyito and sleep deeply. Continue driving South using “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”, which will lead you to Bariloche.
  • Long route: take “Ruta Nacional Nº 3” South. Rest in Azul for 15 minutes, follow South until Bahia Blanca, rest for some time. Follow South; take “Ruta Nacional Nº 22”, set the air conditioner on and turn on your CD player; don’t travel too slowly, or you might fall asleep! Rest in Choele Choel. Drive through lots of tiny cities and through Cipolletti – Neuquen, big cities which are connected by a bridge with an A$R0.65 toll. Follow through the million traffic lights until you exit the city. Approximately 32 km later, stop in Arroyito and sleep deeply. Continue driving South using “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”, which will lead you to Bariloche.

[edit] By bus

If you decide to travel by bus you can choose between different companies, such as "Via Bariloche", "El Crucero del Norte", "Andesmar", etc. The first 2 companies offer different services, where the main variable is comfort and price. You can take "supercama", which has wide and large seats. "Cama" has wide seats. "Semi-cama" has the normal distribution of 4 seats per row. "Supercama" and "cama" take as long as 19 hours (summer); "semi-cama" makes several stops and takes as long as 22 hours (summer).

Different routes to get to Bariloche by Bus from Buenos Aires are:

  • Non Stop: “Ruta Nacional Nº 5” – “Ruta Provincial Nº 1” (la Pampa) – “Ruta Provincial Nº 18” (la Pampa) – “Ruta Nacional Nº 35” – “Ruta Nacional Nº 152” – “Ruta Provincial Nº 6” (Río Negro) - “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” – NEUQUEN – “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” - “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”
  • Stopping: “Ruta Nacional Nº 3” - “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” – NEUQUEN - “Ruta Nacional Nº 22” - “Ruta Nacional Nº 237”

[edit] By boat

You can arrive or depart Bariloche by taking a series of ferries that wind through several lakes and connect by short bus rides from the Pacific at Puerto Montt, Chile. It's a one day trip unless you opt to stay overnight at Hotel Peulla near the pass.

[edit] Get around

[edit][add listing] See

  • El Bosque de Arrayanes - A forest of rare, orange colored trees that only grow on a local island (and one in Japan). There are several cruise boats; the newest (luxurious) ship is called the "Cau Cau". Take the circuit bus out of Bariloche and catch a boat (near the Hotel Llao Llao) and have lunch, hike or bike, and enjoy the afternoon in the forest.
  • Images Touristic information about the San Carlos de Bariloche [3]. Hotels, cabains, rents, and sails. Also Ski centers, sport and cultural events, all images.
  • Museum of Patagonia - On the main plaza near the Tourist Info center. "Stuffed" native wildlife, pictures, and a great section covering the indigenous pre-Hispanic inhabitants of the region.
  • Cruce de Lagos - All day cruise of Lake Nahuel Huapi and the National Park. Numerous stops allow you to wander in Andean rain forest, eat at the Hotel Puerto Blest and enjoy the stunning scenery from the turquoise waters of the lake. Buy the pass for a one hour cruise on Lago Frias which brings you near the snow covered volcano, Tronador. Lago Frias is milky jade green in color and the ride includes a short stop at the Chilean frontier. US$60 per person (March 2007)

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Hiking with Local Mountain Guide [4] - Guided bilingual hikes with mountain guide Maxi Schoffel in Nahuel Huapi National Park.
  • Cerro Catedral - It has the biggest ski centre in South America, with a skiable area of 2 km² (0.77 sq mi), over 100 km (62 miles) of ski runs, and a lift capacity of 22,200 skiers per hour. It is located 12 miles from Bariloche.
  • Circuito Chico - This beautiful 60km route can be biked, clockwise is the most easiest way. Or take a bus.
  • Cerro Otto - Transport there costs $25 pesos (it's not on the standard bus circuit), or just take a walk from the city (not that far if you're also thinking of hiking up, it's about 5km - 3mi from Bariloche). Either take the cable car up or mountain bike to get to the top. The rotating restaurant at the top has some impressive vistas of the region (average meal costs about $25 pesos) and there are some nice hiking trails behind the restaurant.
  • Cerro López - Take the #10 bus to get there and back. In late spring/summer/early autumn there's a trekking trail to the mountain shelter (not as easy as Otto's). It takes about 3 hours to get there an can be quite tiring, but the views from the shelter are impressive. Be sure to bring along water and some fruit to keep your energy. Colonia Suiza, a swiss-like borough, is nearby.
  • Paragliding - Ernesto Gutierrez, 02944-462234 / 02944-1543037 (parapente@bariloche.com.ar) offers 50 minute tandem flights for Ar$120 and an additional Ar$10 to Ar$30 transportation cost, depending on the location.
  • Rafting - Several agents offers rafting on the grade III Rio Limay or the grade III/IV Rio Manso.
  • Kayak [5]
  • Cerro Campanario - $15 pesos (USD$5) for entry/ski-lift up the mountain, or hike up a steep trail that departs near the bottom of the lift. This is another peak on the circuit with spectacular views, and a non-revolving restaurant at the top. Take city bus #20 which departs every 20 minutes out of Bariloche to arrive/return for $2 pesos.
  • Los Siete Lagos (the seven lakes) - all-day tour by bus to see the seven picturesque lakes between Bariloche and San Martin de Los Andes, with lunch at SMdLA, followed by a return trip through the arid Pampas where you can see much of the local fauna along the way.
  • Cerro Tronador, visit the black glacier (ventisquero negro), see the Cerro Tronador and a waterfall over an overhanging cliff named Saltillo de las Nalcas, near the village of Pampa Linda. The busride takes about two hours, and costs Ar$ 45 return or Ar$ 25 one-way (Transitando, 20 de Febrero 300, Bariloche). There is an additional entrance fee to the national park of Ar$ 20 (foreigners). With this bus, you have to hike the last 7km to the glacier, which is sometimes a hassle as there is no hiking trail and the dirt road is extremely busy. Some tourist buses take you right to the sights. Near the lookout there is confiteria which sells overpriced food.
  • Horseriding - [6] Horseriding tours to the Nahuel Huapi National Park from Bariloche in English/Spanish/German. Also try Tom Wesley Cabalgatas (http://www.cabalgatastomwesley.com/), their 3 hour lake ride is amazing.

More information: Official website of Bariloche (http://www.barilochepatagonia.info/),

[edit] Learn

  • Brittania School of English and Spanish [7] - housed in a Swiss/Bavarian style store front, the school is part of Argentina's COINED Spanish school system.
  • ABC Spanish School [8] - right in the city center.
  • Patagonia School -Spanish Courses in Bariloche, Patagonia - [[9]]
  • Bariloche School[10] - Study Spanish in Bariloche-

[edit][add listing] Buy

  • Chocolate, the city hosts an amazing number of shops were they produce and sell all sorts of varieties of chocolate. Local fruits and licor make some of the fillings. The most renowned ones are Mamuschka, and Benroth.

[edit][add listing] Eat

  • El Boliche de Alberto has, according to some, the best meat in Argentina. There are two restaurants in town, but the original one is located about 5 kilometers out of town. Ask a taxi driver to take you there. Be aware that if you arrive after 8pm, you'll wait in line for at least 1.5 hrs at the very least (and Abandon All Hope, Ye That Are A Party Of 6 Or More). Please note that El boliche de Alberto has a meat version of the restaurant which specialises in meats such as beef, chicken or pork etc. and there is a pasta version which serves a variety of different pastas. No restaurant serves both meat and pasta!!!!
  • La Parrilla de Julian [11] is at San Martin 540 (also called "El Refugio Del Montañes". The second floor window view and the personalized, family-owned restaurant atmosphere (especially compared to the tourist-trap feel of El Boliche de Alberto) adds to the experience. The meat is very good, you don't have to wait 2 hrs to enjoy it, and the location is conveniently on one of the main avenues in Bariloche. However serving sizes are quite small and pricey (Ar$200 for a modest 2 person dinner with desert and no wine)
  • Taberna Breogan Celta (also on San Martin, one of the main avenues) is this local restaurant featuring the local smoked wild game. Especially recommended is the meat-n-cheese plate featuring venison, wild boar, salmon, and two kinds of cheese.
  • Casita Suiza is one of the best regional restaurants in Bariloche. You also can ask Swiss specialties like fondues, raclettes and pierrades.
  • Cassis Restaurant 02944-476167, Peñón de Arelauquen, Ruta 82, Lago Gutiérrez.
  • Friends Bartolome Mitre. Nothing special, but decent.

[edit][add listing] Drink

  • Choppin Tapas y Fondue, on the circuit in Llao Llao, 1 mile away from the famous Hotel Llao Llao (by the Shell gas station). Eclectic, semi-hippy, great music, with an incredible view of the hotel, golf course, and mountains in the backdrop. Excellent homebrew beer on tap.
  • Antares Brewery[12], Ada M. Elflein 47. Nice variety of food and great beer. The Barley Wine is especially potent. Two-for-one pints during happy hour, every day 7-8pm.
  • The Map Room[13], Urquiza 248, +54 (02944) 456-856, located next to the Centro Civico this friendly English-style pub caters to tourists and locals alike. Drink specials daily 7:00PM-9:00PM. In addition to an excellent bar there is an extensive menu for lunch and dinner. Be sure to try the 'lomo especial' the best Argentine steak sandwich in Patagonia. Also, this is the only place where you can get an authentic American breakfast. In addition to the expected brands of beer they also carry Antares microbrews.
  • Wilkenny, San Martin 435. Irish-themed bar popular with tourists. There are better choices.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

Bariloches budget accommodation quickly gets fully booked, so make your reservations in advance, particularly during high season.

  • Periko's, Morales 555, 2644-522326, [14]. Named after the owner's dog.
  • Hostel 1004, Edificio Bariloche Centre 10th floor, 02944-432228. Dorms from Ar$ 35.00. Offers a panoramic view. Excellent public areas. Free breakfast, internet.
  • Hostel La Puerta Verde, Quaglia 160 1º floor, 02944 - 429051 [15].
  • Hostel Refugio Patagonia, Mitre 1338, 02944-422539, [16]. Feel at home with Tato and Sandra, they're building a big "quincho"/barbecue saloon.
  • Lake View Bed & Breakfast, Pioneros KM 4.6 (5 mins from downtown), 02944-1534-1876 Mark
  • Marcopoloinn Hostel, Salta 422, phone 02944-400105, Email info@marcopoloinnbariloche.com,[17]. Modern, clean hostel. Dorms from Ar$ 37.00 (YHA members), Ar$ 40.00 (nonmembers). Free breakfast and dinner, fast internet, WiFi. Lots of party folk. Easily the best value in town.
  • Tango Inn Downtown Hostel. Salta 514, phone 02944-400004. Email info(at)tangoinnhostels.com, [18]. Modern, clean hostel. Dorms from Ar$ 37.00 (YHA members), Ar$ 40.00 (nonmembers). Free breakfast, fast internet, WiFi. Three-star-breakfast buffet (thats the free breakfast!). Very quiet.
  • Ruca Hueney Youth Hostel. Elflein 396, phone 02944-433986, 02944-437026, Email rucahueneyhostelclub(at)speedy.com.ar, [19]. Dorms from Ar$ 30.00. Free breakfast, internet.
  • Hostel 41 below, 94 Pasaje Juramento, [20]. Fun, young atmosphere. Many tour options to book right there for the same prices as in town. You will feel like you're home.
  • Nomad Backpackers, Salta. When all the other ones are fully booked, this one might be worth a try.
  • Albergue Alaska, Av. Bustillo 7500, phone 461564, email info@alska-hostel.com
  • Albergue Patagonia Andina, Morales 564, phone 421861, email info2elpatagoniaandina.com.ar, [21]
  • Hosteria Bello Horizonte, Salta 394, phone 422621, email hosteriabelhorizonte@ciudad.com.ar.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Edelweiss Hotel 54-02944-445500, Av. San Martin 536.
  • Penon Del Lago,Av. Ezequiel Bustillo, 54-02944-463000, [22]. KM 13,900.
  • Nido del Condor, 54-11-4315-3305, Av. Bustillo Km. 6.9
  • Los Helechos [23] 54-02944-461189, [24]. (Bungalows/Cabins) Francisco de Biedma 80 (altura: Av. E. Bustillo km 8,65)
  • La Farola - Lago Gutierrez [25] 54-29449-551072

[edit] Splurge

  • Hotel Llao Llao - Beautiful alpine style hotel, built in 1939 (recently renovated), adds to the dramatic backdrop of the mountains. A classic resort: there's a golf course, boating, and much for the wealthy to see and do. Nightly rates were around USD$300 back in Dec, 2004, so the $8 peso coffee might be the way to go in order to enjoy the view, the ambiance, etc, without paying an arm/leg to stay there overnight. Excellent service, slightly OTT decor. About 25km from the city centre and about 35km from Cerro Catedral.
  • Design Suites Hotel, Av. Bustillo Km.2,5 8400 Bariloche Provincia de Rio Negro Argentina. Modern hotel (not all suite as the name might imply), with all the benefits (Spacious rooms, Free Wifi, Stunning Panorama Views, clever design touches) and drawbacks (Awful restaurant, no room service, staff not trained to deliver 5* service) you expect from a Boutique Hotel. The suites themselves are not traditional suites, rather larger rooms with a couch and a balcony. Hotel 3km from the City Center. Best rates on official website start at US$130.  edit

[edit] Stay safe

[edit] Dance

  • Bypass. Offers a very elegant environment with lots of laser effects and nice music.
  • Cerebro. One of the oldest dance clubs in Bariloche. It is quite nice and it offers laser effects but not as colorful as other dance clubs.
  • Grisu. This is a must visit place. It has wood-like walls and it is designed in such a way that it is easy to get lost if you don't know your way around. It has a very quite place with a huge window showing the Nahuel Huapi lake. There are no laser effects but the bartenders are experts and it is worth watching them doing all sorts of tricks.
  • Rocket. Four floors dance club full of light, colors and sounds. Good laser show and nice atmosphere.
  • Genux.

[edit] Get out

  • El Bolson - A small hippie town (founded in the 70's) in a mountainous valley about 120km/75mi south of Bariloche. There's a twice weekly outdoor flea market (get there in the morning, it closes down around 3pm). Lunch at "Las Brasas" parrilla is recommended. Transportation on the El Valle bus line [26] is $24 pesos/usd$8 round trip from Bariloche and is worth it for the scenery alone!