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Saint Thomas

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Charlotte Amalie harbor
Charlotte Amalie harbor

St. Thomas is in the Virgin Islands.

[edit] Regions

Magen's Bay

The most famous feature, besides the shopping, on the island. Directly across on the northern side from Charlotte Amalie, a crescent shaped bay with a mile of white sand and several bars and small stores. Taxis from downtown cost about 15 dollars, and if there are any cruise ships on the day you go, you can bet it will have at least a few beached white tourist fish. The trip to Magen's Bay (and back) passes Mountain Top a small conglomeration of shops with a great view of Magen's Bay and beyond; beware of the potent Rum Punch at the bar - don't let it ruin your day! Excellent views of Charolotte Amalie's harbor when descending on the return.

Hull Bay

The next bay to the west of Magen's, on the Atlantic ocean, and in the winter there is the island's only surfing. There is a shop where you can rent boards, but in typical island style, you would be lucky to catch the owner there to rent you one. Better to call ahead a few days and leave a message.

Brewer's Bay

Beautiful small beach near the University, especially nice at sunset. The landing strip for the airport is right on the other side, and the sun sets somewhere out in the middle.

Sapphire Beach

Beach resort, open to the public but you can stay there too if that is where you want to be. Nice beach, rent a snorkel and check out the nice clear water and coral. There are a couple of bars and a swimming pool, sometimes a live band at night, if you haven't had a BBC (Bailey's, banana, coconut) they are pretty tasty.

Coki Beach

The best snorkeling beach on St. Thomas. Normal underwater visibility of 100+ feet! Great beach for kids to learn to snorkel. It's very calm and you can feed the fish in about 3-4 feet of water if you want to. They sell dog treats to feed to the fish and it's really cool to see them swarm you for one. Beware of the locals though, you will be asked if you want to buy something 20 times before you make it to the beach, once there you are pretty much left alone though.

If you take a tourist taxi to Coki Beach (they have awnings) you must be sure to take the same driver on return trip. If you try to take a different driver, nasty arguments can happen. Get the name of the driver who took you and make a time for pickup and return. There are no food facilities at Coki Beach, so be sure to plan for this.

Secret Harbour

This is a private resort, but they allow visitors to use the beach. Not so for the chairs, which must be rented from a very diligent attendant. There are a number of rather large iguanas that wander around the property. They are not pet material, and run off if approached. there is a very nice restaurant on the beach called the Blue Moon; Not only was the food reasonably-priced and delicious, it's one of the few places that will give you free soda refills, and you can't beat the view. The snorkeling was decent close to the beach. There's a dive shop on site where you can rent chairs and other needs, but we didn't go in. Taxis know this resort well, and unlike many islands where you have to prearrange a pickup when dropped off, when you are ready to leave Secret Harbour several taxis are lined up and waiting in front of the resort.

[edit] Cities

Downtown - Charlotte Amalie

This is where all the tourists come from the cruise ships. Every day they disembark to shop at some of the 300 or so jewelry stores in the city. (See "Buy" below for shopping info.) Most of the ships dock next to HavenSight Mall, a mile east of downtown. A few (e.g., Princess) dock at Crown Bay. With many ships in port simultaneously (not unusual "in season"), some ships may anchor outside the harbors.

There are endless taxis (trucks that have been converted with coverings and bench seats...called Safaries) going back and forth from downtown. If you look like a tourist, you will be asked if you need a ride or if you want to buy something every 15 steps or so. Everyone in the city uses their horns liberally, they drive on the left side of the street and don't really follow the rules. They don't follow the rules about a lot of things, in fact they are very disorganized but it can be charming.

If you happen to be downtown at night, Frenchtown is where the classier places are, for food and drinks, there is an excellent but expensive seafood restaurant called Oceana at the edge of the water, particularly nice at sunset. Downtown there are a couple of bars that sport they younger crowd and have loud music etc.

East End - Red Hook

There is a little more nightlife and activities, restaurants in Red Hook, you can catch the dollar taxi (2$ to Red Hook from downtown), it takes about 45 minutes to get there. Don't get stuck there though, unless you have a lot of people in your group, a taxi will not likely take you downtown after about 9PM. Red Hook has ferry service to the island of Saint John.

[edit] Other destinations

  • Water Island Across the bay from Charlotte Amalie, this small island has trails and an old sugar mill back from the slave days. Once a week (Mondays?) they put up a big sheet and show a movie on the beach at 9PM. The island has some cottages, but no real commercial establishments.

[edit] Understand

This is the islands, so naturally the locals are very laid back. You can count on speedy service especially in the areas where they are used to dealing with a lot of tourists though.

Say "good morning" "good afternoon" or "good night" when you enter a room, get on a taxi or before you start talking to someone and they will be more friendly, this is the polite thing to do and shows that you aren't a complete tourist.

[edit] Talk

English is spoken throughout the island.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By air

  • Cyril E. King Airport (IATA: STT) (ICAO: TIST), 340-774-5100, [1]. This international airport is on Red Point on the island's southwest coast. Local carriers like Cape Air and Seaborne Airlines also offer frequent flights linking the St. Thomas Airport with St. Croix's Henry Rohlsen Airport.

Spirit Airlines is a low cost carrier that flies into St. Thomas.

[edit] By boat

  • Saint Thomas is a very popular stop for cruise ships on both Eastern Caribbean and Southern Caribbean itineraries. Most dock at/near Havensight...a near two mile walk to downtown Charlotte Amalie. Comfort & safety for the walk is improving as construction of the shoreline road continues. Passengers can also easily get a $4 open air "Safari" cab ride each way to/from downtown. Some ships dock at Crown Point (also $4 Safari ride to/from). Ships that anchor off-shore use their lifeboats to tender passengers ashore...sometimes virtually downtown.

[edit] Get around

[edit] Ferries

Ferries leave from Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook to other islands pretty much all day every couple of hours. There are information booths along the waterfront where you can get a schedule for the local ferries and a ferry terminal near French Town for the longer distances (BVI etc). If you are going to St. John it is much cheaper and faster to go from Red Hook.

[edit] Taxis

There are two kinds. Tourist taxis, and dollar taxis. Tourist taxis will take you anywhere at a premium, from one end of the island to the other. Airport to Red Hook is probably $30, from Charlotte Amalie to the Airport is about $15, and from Charlotte Amalie to Red Hook about $20. Agree to a price before you get in the car. Taxi prices are PER PERSON so a trip for 4 to Meagans bay for your group could easily run you $50.00 each way! The big truck taxis will charge by the person, the legitimate taxis will have a meter, and the gypsy taxis will bid for your service and all of them will be waiting in crowds outside restaurants and bars after dark. There are approximately 3,000 taxis on the island, half gypsy (unlicensed).

Dollar taxis run from sunrise to sunset, whenever they feel like it. They have one route with set stops. If you want to ride one, ask someone where to wait for one. They look just like the tourist taxis, but they will be filled with locals instead of tourists. They go from the end of airport road to Sapphire Bay and back, one way. Yes, one way, it goes in a figure 8 from the Airport, through Charlotte Amalie to the mall in the middle, out to the east end, back to the mall and downtown again. If you go farther than the mall then it will cost you $2, for shorter trips only $1. The taxis run at random but frequently enough. The dollar taxis do not run all the way to the airport, so don't try it. Their last stop is near Brewers Bay, a good mile from the terminal.

(See also "Safari" cab discussion under "Get In", "By Boat" above)

[edit][add listing] See

  • Coral World [2], Coki Point northeast shore Spend the day at Coral World Ocean Park, one of St. Thomas’s Greatest Attractions. Get up close and personal with the beauty and magic of Caribbean marine life in a stunning setting. View life on a coral reef from the unique Undersea Observatory. Pet a shark, hand feed a stingray or a rainbow lorikeet! There are several gift shops, cafes and shower facilities. Additional activities include brand new dive operations Snuba and Power Snorkel as well as the Sea Lion Splash, Sea Trek Helmet Dive, Shark and Turtle Encounters, Nautilus Semi-Sub, and Parasailing. Located next to Coki Beach. Open 9-5 daily, November - May. Summer schedule may vary.
  • Fort Christian A bright red Dutch-build fort from the mid 1600s. Its museum has exhibits of historical photos and artifacts, furniture, a cane press, local flora and fauna and more. The fort's roof affords nice panoramic views of the harbor. Adults: $3, under 16 free.
  • 99 steps Built by the Danes in the mid 18th century, to climb up and down the steep hills of Charlotte Amalie. The bricks used to build the steps were brought from Denmark as ballast in the hulls of sailing ships.

[edit] Itineraries

[edit][add listing] Do

  • St. Thomas Skyride to Paradise Point, 9617 Estate Thomas HarborSide, tel: 340-774-9809,[3]. Open 9AM-5PM when cruise ships are in port. A short walk from the cruise ship dock to the tram which takes you up to the top for fabulous views, a drink and maybe lunch. Skyride day pass: Adults $18, ages 6-12 $9, under 6 free.
  • Coral World (see Do above) for watersports or parasailing.
  • Mahogany Run Golf Course, Mahogany Run Road, tel: 340-777-6250, [4]. Beautiful 18 hole, 6,022-yard, par-70 course. Home of the "Devil's Triangle".
  • Captain Nautica Powerboat Charters, Red Hook Plaza, tel: 340-715-3379, [5]. Daily News "Best of the VI's" award for Best Charter Boat.

[edit][add listing] Buy

U.S. currency is used/accepted universally. Sellers in bazaars may not accept credit or debit cards. Major purchases should be made by credit card. ATMs can be found in numerous locations. Some may waive some fees for your debit/check cards depending on your bank's network affiliation. All merchandise is duty, luxury and sales tax free to customers (merchants do pay various inventory and other business taxes).

You can shop both downtown and at malls near the cruise ship docks, e.g., Havensight has many of the same shops as downtown, but in smaller versions; Crown Bay has a growing number of key stores. Other stores in resorts, strip malls, etc., dot the island, and tend to serve locals and land vacationers; many stay open on Sundays, e.g., K-Mart.

When cruise ships are in port (often, usually during daylight), the open air bazaars are full of bustle, and the stores can be crowded. Four or more large ships in port at once (rarely off-season, frequently even more in high-season) can each put 2-3,000 passengers on the island, making downtown midday very crowded. That may compromise bargaining success. Shopping early can help the crowding. Stores downtown open at 0900-1000, at/near docks, sometimes earlier. Half-day ship's tours end about noon, and ship itineraries often call for departures at 5-6 PM (with all-aboard as much as an hour earlier). You might time your shopping accordingly. If staying on the island or St. John, and you wish to avoid heavy cruise ship days, you can find a decent, downloadable list of ship arrivals for the next month or so at [6] (under "Points of Interest").

On Sunday, early can be key. Some stores (mostly in downtown Charlotte Amalie) don't open, many open only if at least one cruise ship is in port, and many of those stores close by early-mid afternoon. Occasional, local holidays/festivals can make shopping downtown problematic due to closures and/or parades (most carnivals in April & May).

Bargaining is appropriate in open-air bazaars, and should be tried in stores but may be rebuffed in a few for some kinds of items. You need to know how to judge the quality and value of major purchases, e.g., costs of same/similar items back home. Some cameras, optics and electronics may be bought from aggressive discounters (e.g., on Internet) for equivalent or lower prices, but they may charge sales tax and/or shipping costs. Ensure that items of interest, that need any kind of (service) warranty, have one in writing that is usable at home, e.g., for electronics, watches, cameras. You should also understand "grey-market" versus US-importer cameras and electronics, their warranties, and their limitations and consequences.

Gems, jewelry, watches, liquor, cosmetics and perfumes can be very good buys, perhaps more so for U.S. citizens because of generous duty limits. Those increased limits can depend on making at least half of your purchases in the USVI. These advantages can make the economics of buying in the USVI somewhat better for U.S. citizens than in such competitive islands as St Martin, Aruba or St Kitts where some prices may be better. Unique, appealing or well-priced items seen elsewhere should not be avoided just because of feared duty costs...often modest. Always consult authoritative sources to obtain and understand consequences of customs limits and duty costs before making extensive purchases, e.g., download/print U.S. Customs "Know Before You Go" at [7].

In exchange for considerable fees, "port shopping advisors" on Cruise ships often tout certain businesses as more reliable than others. But most stores are quite reputable, ready to rectify any problem that's truly their responsibility. Smaller retailers such as Artistic Jewelry offer quality fully-equivalent to such major stores as Cardow or A.H. Riise. And they may offer unique pieces seen nowhere else. Your best move...always thoroughly inspect any high-cost item before accepting it.

You may wish to have stores ship out-sized items home for you (liquor, perfumes and tobacco excluded). Costs for surface shipping can be modest, air a bit more but faster. It avoids danger of damage by baggage handlers, and greatly simplifies your return home if it involves flying. Consult "Know Before You Go" (above) for documentation and customs labeling when shipping dutiable items. The retailer should help...it may even arrange everything. If customs duty will be involved, you will have to pay it at/near home as you receive the item(s).

Several stores offer large and varied selections of liquors at excellent prices, e.g., (downtown) A.H. Riise and Dynasty for selection/price; those same names in Havensight; (near Havensight) K-Mart, Pueblo Supermarket and Al Cohen's Warehouse for price; (at Crown Bay) A.H. Riise and an independent store. Thanks to recent renovations, the airport has a nice store inside the secure area (airside) (see discussion below under "Returning home with purchases").

Some liquor stores will box your purchases and deliver to your ship, hotel or airport at no charge if you ask and make your substantial purchase early enough; ask, and they will say if too late. That way, you don't have to carry them with you the rest of the day. Others (e.g., K-Mart, Cohen's) often have boxes available, and may box bottles for you.

Boxes are usually strong enough to be used as checked baggage if well-strapped with strong tape, e.g., wide, nylon reinforced tape (duct tape can give mixed results for this use). Two boxes of up to four bottles each can be strapped together as one piece, but watch the weight. Before you tape each box of liquor, check the arrangement of bottles inside (all-upright preferable), and add internal padding around each bottle to avoid breakage, e.g., crumpled newspaper, bubble wrap or bottle bags/cushions. Then strap the boxes well outside, place a tag with name/address/phone on each and write the same information on each box. If checked on flights, highly "over-proof" liquor (e.g., well above 100 proof) may be confiscated as a fire hazard.

Customs and Duty:

- Each U.S. citizen is allowed to return to the U.S. with $1600 in total purchases if at least some purchases are made in the USVI.

- Each adult U.S. citizen is allowed to return to the U.S. with four liters (or five fifths) of liquor duty-free if some (if not most) purchased in the USVI. If one liter purchased was made or bottled in the USVI (e.g., Cruzan rum), you can return with five liters/six fifths total duty-free. Most liquor comes in one liter bottles, but some US-produced liquors may be .75 liter ("fifths"), and liqueurs may be in still other sizes. So take care about numbers of bottles versus total liters purchased. The rules for wine and beer are different; again, consult "Know Before You Go" noted above.)

- U.S. Customs officials may opt not to charge for 1-2 liters over the limit because the duty payable is so small; they often charge if you are paying duty for other purchases anyway.

- U.S. Customs treats loose gemstones (even fully faceted) as rocks having no dutiable value. However, if mounted in jewelry, the full cost as finished jewelry must be declared. No reputable jeweler will sell you an unmounted stone and its mount separately to avoid duty; it would place them and you in violation of the law. Original art works created there and certain other custom-made items are also treated as non-dutiable; you'll need a certificate of origin from the seller. Consult "Know Before You Go" noted above.

- When purchasing what will be "U.S. Goods Returning" (USGR or AGR) (ask sellers), ensure they provide proper/formal indication on or with a receipt so that the cost(s) will not count against your duty allowance. Similar policy may apply for products made in and returning to other countries.

- Non-dutiable & USGR/AGR (or equivalent) items must be itemized as such on your customs declaration; their costs should not be included in the dutiable sum of your purchases. Have receipts, certificates and merchandise from all purchases readily at hand as you pass through customs.

- Other customs enforcement (e.g., for Canada or EC countries) depends on country limits and enforcement.

Returning home with purchases:

With many airlines now charging for checked bags, the economics and practicalities of bringing back extensive purchases gets complicated, e.g., $15-50 each for first two bags, $50-100+ each for more. Generally, you cannot carry liquor aboard aircraft in or flying to the U.S. in an effort to save checked-luggage costs. TSA policy says you cannot have larger than 3oz. bottles of liquid in the passenger cabin (under Security Condition Orange/Elevated); all brought on board must fit in a single, clear-plastic quart bag. (As of May 2009, TSA is reportedly reviewing this restriction because newer scanners can detect truly "dangerous" liquids. If the restriction is eventually relaxed, your airport will require these newer scanners.) For current U.S. carry-on restrictions, see [8]

Some travelers flying home to the U.S. try to avoid this by purchasing liquor at shops inside airport secure areas immediately before boarding return flights. That option is now available here. However, take care...

- There are limits to how much you can bring on-board.

- This only works if your flight is non-stop (a "direct" flight may not work) to your final flying destination. Otherwise, you may have to leave the secure area of an enroute airport with your purchases, e.g., to go through Customs processing. You will then not be allowed to re-board with those liquids.

Some airlines may not accept liquor boxes as separate, checked baggage, so know in-advance from the carrier if boxes will be accepted or if you must place them in checked luggage for any part of your return trip.

- If they can be checked, determine if each box counts as a checked bag...can be expensive. And consider how much handling they will receive before you retrieve them.

- If they must be put in luggage, first put each internally-padded and strapped box in a strong, leak-resistant plastic bag (e.g., kitchen trash bag), and tape it closed so that any leak will not harm other contents. (Boxes of two bottles each are much easier to bag & pack.) Then pad each well all-around in the luggage. You might bring or buy an extra soft bag (carry-on or checked) for loose clothing and other unbreakables displaced by the boxes.

[edit][add listing] Eat

Eat a fresh coconut, there is an old man who comes to the tent market in Charlotte Amalie every day with a pickup truck full of coconuts and a machete and sells them for 2 or 3 dollars, you drink the milk and give it back and he gives it another crack so you can eat the "meat". Go to Herve restaurant. It is a little expensive, but they have great French and American food. Also, Room With A View, just outside of town has great steaks and seafood. Just a few others include:

  • Cuzzin’s on Back Street in downtown Charlotte Amalie. a Caribbean dining experience.
  • Hook Line & Sinker, in the community of Frenchtown, [9]. Excellent food and friendly service right on the waterfront. The swordfish is quite good.
  • Indigo Bar & Restaurant is located on the north side of St. Thomas, overlooking Megan's Bay. Excellent outdoor dining. The pan fried Sea Bass is a must.
  • North Drop, Hull Bay Road on St. Thomas' Northside. A great out-of-the-way spot to enjoy some of the finest seafood the island has to offer.
  • Victor's New Hideout, on a hillside overlooking Crown Bay from the west. Offers tasty Caribbean cooking with a beautiful view and fresh breezes. Tricky to get to, but taxi and Safari cab drivers know how to reach it.

[edit][add listing] Drink

There's lots of blended tropical alcoholic drinks here.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Crystal Palace Bed and Breakfast, Downtown, (340) 777-2277, 866-502-2277, [10]. $90-$140..  edit
  • Galleon House Bed and Breakfast, Downtown, (340) 774-6952, Toll Free 800-524-2052, [11]. $75-$150..  edit

[edit] Moderate

  • 1829, (Downtown, Government Hill).  edit
  • Beachcomber, (Lindberg Beach, near airport).  edit
  • Best Western, (Lindberg Beach, near airport).  edit
  • Holiday Inn, Downtown.  edit
  • Pineapple Rooms and Villas, (East End of St. Thomas), 800-479-1539 (), [12]. Ten one-story buildings in a gated residential village, with a pool at the center. Near Coki Beach.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Frenchman's Reef & Morning Star Marriott Beach Resort, 5 Estate Bakkeroe, 1-340-776-8500 (fax: 1-340-715-6193), [13]. Largest resort in the U.S. Virgin Islands with 11 restaurants and bars and three pools. AAA 3 diamond. $350 and up..  edit
  • Ritz Carlton.  edit
  • Sapphire Beach Resort & Marina, 6720 Estate Smith Bay, toll free: (800) 524-2090, tel: (340)775-6100 (fax: (340)775-2403), [14]. Nice self-contained beach resort away from downtown. $225-$700..  edit
  • Wyndham Sugar Bay Resort & Spa, 6500 Estate Smith Bay, 340-777-7100, [15]. The resort features extensive amenities including a spa and fitness center, secluded beach, three freshwater pools, 3 restaurants and 3 lounges, and good Caribbean views. $200 and up..  edit

[edit] Get out

If you are staying for a few days, consider ferry rides or inter-island flights to St Croix, the British Virgin Islands (passport required) or the islands just east of Puerto Rico.

The airport also has private aviation operators with amiable, well-qualified pilots and well-maintained equipment. With prior arrangements, they can provide, at modest cost, one to two hour flights in small aircraft to provide different and beautiful perspectives of the area's islands. If landing elsewhere is planned, passports may be required, especially for other than U.S. citizens.

[edit] Contact

There are several small internet cafes located around the island as well as connections offered by the larger resort hotels. Havensight has two and Crown Bay one that cater to ships' crews; they are open to the public.

Cell phones can be used in most places, with some spotty coverage. Calls to the U.S. are treated as long-distance, not international.

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