Russia to Japan via Sakhalin
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Contents
This article is an itinerary.
Itinerary is in Far Eastern Russia. Articles on all major stops on this itinerary, has been comprehensibly updated.
[edit] Understand
[edit] Prepare
Please refer to the Trans-Siberian Railway article, for general information about this great railway journey
Bring a Phrase book As this journey takes you far of the beaten path, don't expect anyone to speak English. Bringing a Russian phrase book is not only recommended to help the traveler socialize with fellow cabin mates during the trip, and thus enriching the experience of this trip immensely - but also perhaps more importantly, it's invaluable help should you encounter any emergencies.
Have your papers in order Sakhalin is designated a special border region, and as such, movement of foreigners is limited. Because of this, travelers should pay special attention to the Russian registration rules if he or she plans on entering Sakhalin. And have all the paperwork (registration stamps and train tickets) ready on disembarkation in Kholmsk. It is also advisable to have the name, address and telephone number for the intended accommodation on Sakhalin island written in Russian, for the Sakhalin customs officials.
Certain nationalities require Visa to enter Japan, while citizens from most Western nations, can obtain landing permission on arrival. There is a Japanese consulate in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Also note that you are required to provide information on your first nights accommodation on the landing permission, as well as to purchase ferry tickets for the Korsakov-Wakkanai ferry.
Pack warm clothes even in summer, Sakhalin can be quite chilly, so be sure to bring a jacket and long pants
[edit] Get in
There are two possible options of reaching Sakhalin, the easiest of which is branching of the main Trans Siberian line in Khabarovsk, the last major station before the terminus in Vladivostok. More adventurous travelers can travel by the more exotic but poorly served Baikal-Amur Mainline to Komsomolsk and enter the route from there.
[edit] Go
[edit] 1st leg: Khabarovsk to Komsomolsk
There are serveral options to consider on this leg of the journey. The easiest no doubt, is by train, but a more interresting way, is to take the daily hydrofoil services, connecting the two cities, up the Amur river.
- Train
Train number: #351/352; Departure: 01:30 (08:30 local time); Arrival: 11:08 (16:08)
If you do not want to attract the wrong kind of attention, be considerate when you board the train, as the passengers who boarded in Vladivostok will mostly be a sleep. The train ride is quite scenic, with occational views over the Amur river. Note that there is no longer stops on this leg, where you can can stock up supplies from the usual station sellers, but train does have a decent restaurant car, with a small shop, in case you forget to bring food and drinks.
In Komsomolsk there is a 1 hour layover, the station has a large amount of shops selling fresh foods and other supplies.
- Boat
'Meteor' Departure: 07:00; Arrival: 13:00 (local times)
This hydrofoil service, departs from the Rechnoy Vokzal (river terminal), located a short - but steep walk - south west of the city's massive cathedral. Stay in a hotel near the river due to the early departure times. It takes approxemately 6 hours, covering the 300 kilometers between the two cities. In Komsomolsk the ferry arrives at the river station, about 2 kilometers south of the railway station, but they are connected by tram line number 2.
The train connection to Vanino does not depart Komsomolsk until 12:17 (19:12 local time). So you have a few hours to explore the city. Luggage can be stored at the station.
- Bus
If Russia has left a hole in your wallet, the daily overnight bus between Khabarovsk and Komsomolsk is an option. As the train continuing to Vanino runs overnight, you can save 2 nights worth of accommodation, sacrificing some comfort. Road conditions are reported to be quite good by Russian standards.
[edit] 2nd leg: Komsomolsk to Vanino
- Train
Train number: #351/352; Departure: 12:17 (19:17 local time); Arrival: 00:37 (7:37)
Well fed, and safe on the train, there is some good scenery to be seen; as the train follows a river flowing through a valley, before it starts climbing a small mountain range, and darkness sets in. Next morning you will wake up with a view over the Pacific ocean, and a attractive coastline. If you have come from St Petersburg, you have a little time to reflect on the achievement of traversing the Eurasian continent coast to coast, before arriving in the port city of Vanino. Upon arrival, it is a good idea to have your luggage ready, so you can be first in line to exit the train.
[edit] 3rd leg: Vanino to Kholmsk
After arriving in Vanino, tickets for the ferry are sold in a small ticket window inside the station building. Enter the station from the train platform, and it will be at the opposite end of the main hall from where you entered.
Be advised, buying ferry tickets in Vanino is an altogether unpleasant experience, that even the local population consider a test of endurance. Below is some tips on securing some hard fought tickets.
- Prebook tickets through a travel agency. While as expensive as the tickets themselves, this enables you to forget everything learned about politeness, shove your way through the queue, and get your tickets straight away. Dalgeo tours in Khabarovsk, has English speaking staff available, and will provide this service for 700 RUB (see Khabarovsk entry for contact details).
- Have your luggage ready, and queue up at the train doors before arrival, and run inside the train station to grab a top spot in the queue. (although you will still have to wait 1.5 hours till the ticket window opens)
- Remember there are few rules on queuing in Russia, sneaking in front of other people at every given opportunity, seems to be the norm.
When you have secured a ticket, you can wait in the adjacent waiting room, until the bus leaves to the ferry. Schedules are random, so watch for the line in front of the ticket gate to empty, and then make your way to the parking lot in the northern end of the train platform. Be forewarned, the standard is squeezing twice the number of people, as the bus was designed for in Korea.
The ferries are in a somewhat sorry state, with huge patches of rust everywhere on the ship, but all safety equipment you expect from a western ferry seems to be present. Facilities are limited, but there is a cafe on the main deck, with an assortment of Russian foods and alcoholic beverages.
[edit] 4th leg: Kholmsk to Korsakov
The ferry arrives in the dull port of Kholmsk on Sakhalin's eastern coast early morning. As you leave your cabin, make sure you have your ferry ticket, as it is required to get of the ship. During disembarkation you are required to show your ferry tickets, as well as your passport to local officials. So make sure both are within easy reach, as the cramped space makes disembarkation a rather crowded experience.
As of 2008, Sakhalin is designated a special border region. Therefore law now requires that you register with local authorities. At disembarkation the customs officer will keep your passport, until all passengers have left the vessel. After which you will be lead inside the ferry terminal, where the officer will check your papers, and subject you to a brief interview. No English spoken, so having the following information written in Russian, will shorten your waiting time considerably.
- Date and place of exit (Sakhalin)
- Purpose of your visit
- Name, address and telephone number of your intended accommodation on the island.
Expect the above procedures to take at least one hour. Once finished, head outside the main gate of the ferry terminal, for connections to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, where you can either break up your journey, or continue to Korsakov
- Bus
There are both scheduled buses and minibus connections to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The easiest option is to find a minibus, as they are more comfortable and have frequent departures (leave-when-full). Expect to pay between 200 - 300 RUB for a minibus. You might be forced to pay for an additional seat of you have a large backpack or similar.
In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk the parking lot between the the train station and post office, doubles as a bus terminal. Once again, while there are a few scheduled departures for Korsakov, the easier option is to ask around for a minibus (200 RUB). It's and easy 40 minutes drive, and road conditions are good.
- Train
If you are a train buff, and have endured the hardships of riding the BAM across the Siberian plains, you might find it worthy of the extra trouble, taking the Japanese build, narrow gorge railway to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, and onwards to Korsakov but note, as this is Russia, the above train times should be taken as guidelines only.
[edit] 5th leg: Korsakov to Wakkanai
Ferry's connects Korsakov and Wakkanai once or twice a week between May and October. The ferry are operated by the Japanese company; Heartland Ferry[1], schedules available on their website. By now you are well of the beaten path, and information is very hard to come by if you don't know any Russian.
Tickets: 2nd class (Economy) 24.000 JPY, 1st class 29.000/34.000 JPY, for one way tickets.
There are two options of buying tickets inside Russia, both of them are on Sakhalin. Tickets should be bought at least one day in advance, so leave room in your schedule for this - however accommodation is unusually steep on Sakhalin, so budget travelers would probably want to limit their time spent on the island.
- Bi-tomo, 1 Sakhalinskaya Street, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, ☎ +7 (4242) 72-68-89 (bitomo@svtc.ru, fax: (+7) 50985 - 61217). edit
- Inflot, 6 Morskaya, Korsakov (Inside the 3 storey building next to the sea terminal, there is a sign that reads Upravlinie above the main entrance), ☎ +7 (42433) 50120 (inflot@sakhalin.ru, fax: +7 (42433) 52593). edit
The ferry departs Korsakov at 10.00 am, from the Southern Pier (Yuzhno Port). Passenger facilities are located inside the Sea terminal (Morvokzal ()), 2 Reidovyi Lane (a low rise building just, on your right hand side by the entrance to the pier), ☎ (42435) 22352. edit
You pay a departure tax here on the counter on the right, customs facilities are located behind the door to your left as you enter. Customs officers here seem fairly relaxed compared to their counterparts at the Chinese and Mongolian border crossings. Once all passengers have been through customs and immigrations, are bus shuttles you to the ferry. NOTE! you part with your luggage at this point, and it is not handed back until after immigration on the Japanese side - so pack everything you need in a day pack.
[edit] Stay safe
Carry medical supplies Outside Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk medical facilities are limited, and English speaking doctors non existent. Bringing a rudimentary first aid kit, and basic medicines for self treatment is recommended.
Be alert Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk has the highest instance of youth crime in the entire Russian Federation. While there is no need to be overly paranoid about this, do travel sensibly and stay alert around young Russian men.
[edit] Get out
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