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Rio de Janeiro/Zona Sul

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The South Zone of Rio de Janeiro is usually where most tourists stay. Lots of hotels, from the fancy 5-stars like Copacabana Palace to hostels, are to be found in the neighborhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, which also have three famous beaches, the latter two just being separated by the canal that drains the Lagoa into the sea.

A little closer to downtown, the Gloria, Catete, Botafogo, and Flamengo neighborhoods are pleasant and full of carioca character.

[edit] Get in

Most parts of the Zona Sul are easily accessible by bus or metro. The subway currently runs as far as Siqueira Campos, by Copacabana, but it will eventually be extended to Ipanema. Work is already underway and the target date is end 2009.

[edit][add listing] See

Sugar Loaf by night
Sugar Loaf by night

Sugar Loaf mountain (Pão de Açucar) is in Urca, a very quiet neighborhood just a few minutes from Copacabana. It is a pretty secure place too, thanks to the various military institutions nearby. The cable cars [1] take you up for R$ 44 to a breathtaking view of much of Zona Sul and the center, and also the city of Niteroi, just across Guanabara Bay. You can stop half way if the ride is too frightening. You can also walk up an unsigned trail to this point (ask for directions) and take the cable cars to the top for R$ 22. At the half way point, you can take a sightseeing helicopter trip, if you can afford it!

Corcovado mountain, capped by the 38m statue of Jesus Christ (Cristo Redentor) has been the vantage point for countless picture postcards and travel posters through the ages. It provides a sweeping panorama from the interior of Guanabara bay to the north, to Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Rodrigo de Freitas' Lagoon) to the south. Corcovado can be reached by car or by train (R$ 36 return), on a ride through Floresta da Tijuca (Tijuca Forest), an island of original subtropical forest in the middle of one of the most populous cities of South America. Trains can get very busy. Consider a lunchtime or afternoon trip when there are less coach parties. If you take a taxi to the top the driver may expect extra if you will not be using his taxi to go back down.

You can also visit the forest, and see its many waterfalls and hiking trails. Most of the paths are well-marked, but you can get maps and guides as well. There are many hiking trails in the city, leading to places like Corcovado, Sugar Loaf and others, all with different views of the city.

Arpoador. The rocks at the Copacabana end of Ipanema beach. From here you can see Corcovado, the Sugar Loaf and much more. It is supposed to be the best place to watch the sunset from in Rio. Reputedly a bit dangerous so go there at weekends when there are lots of people and a few police around.

Gloria. The Gloria church is more correctly known as the Outeira da Gloria, outeria in Portuguese meaning “knoll” or small hill. The church was well sited to be seen by arriving sailors sailing into Guanabara Bay. The layout consists of two intertwined octagonal prisms. There are some interesting wooden engravings and tiles from Portugal. Best accessed by one of the world’s shortest funiculars from Rua do Russel. The ride is free. Metro station, Gloria.

[edit] Museums

  • Museu Carmen Miranda in Flamengo Park has an amusing collection of photographs, posters, musical recordings, and of course gigantic fruity hats worn by the singing star. The building looks like an abandoned space capsule in the middle of the park.
  • Museu da República (Palácio do Catete), Rua do Catete 153, 285-6350. The former presidential palace is now a historical museum, with an adjacent art gallery and small theater that occasionally shows free movies. Located right next to Metro Catete station.
  • Museu Villa-Lobos, Rua Sorocaba, 200 - Botafogo, +55 21 2266-1024 (), [2]. M-F 10AM-5:30PM. Heitor Villa-Lobos wrote about 1000 pieces and is considered one of the world's greatest composers. This small museum collection includes a number of personal items, musical instruments, pictures and hand-written work by Villa-Lobos. Free entrance.  edit
  • Casa das Canoas, Estrada das Canoas, 2310 - São Conrado, 55 21 3322 3581, [3]. The former residence of architect Oscar Niemeyer. Open Tuesday to Friday in the afternoon. Call in advance. Adults R$10.

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Planetarium, Rua Vice-Governador Rubens Berardo, 100 – Gávea (in Gávea. Take a taxi or buses 125, 157, 170, 410, 432 or 435), [4]. There are shows, mainly for kids, in the planetarium itself on Sats and Suns. These are targeted at different age groups so it is essential to check the age the show you plan to attend is for or you may get stuck with one that is totally unsuitable. From Weds to Fridays the space is also open without shows and there are around 60 hands-on scientific experiments to entertain kids.  edit
  • Parque Lage - A small park, once a private mansion, where now a school of fine arts works. Contains some interesting plants and wildlife as well as strange concrete structures that will entertain the kids. The park is the beginning of a path up Corcovado, through sub-tropical rain forest. R. Jardim Botânico, 414.[5]
  • Jardim Botanico - The Botanical Garden, planted up in the 1800s. It is both a park and a scientific laboratory. It contains a huge collection of plants from all over the world, not only tropical ones. If you take the bus note that Jardim Botanico is also the name of a neighborhood and the road on which it is found so make sure you take the right one to the entrance. The admission is $4. The gardens are well kept and very lush. Not far from the cafe, first you hear swooshing sounds. Look up and you can see small monkeys swinging from tree to tree.[6]
  • Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Rodrigo de Freitas' Lagoon). You can run, walk, skate or cycle the 7.5km around this freshwater lake and then retire to your luxurious Ipanema penthouse apartment, or just imagine it! Some have been known to swim in it although pollution levels are very high. Around Lagoa you can rent cycles, swan-shaped pedalos and, on the western side near where the helicopters take off, electric cars for the kids.

[edit] Beaches

Ipanema Beach
Ipanema Beach

Perhaps the best thing do in Rio is nothing, while sitting on its glorious beaches. Of the two most famous, Copacabana and Ipanema, the former gets a bit more crowded (perhaps that will change when the Metro gets extended). Both have spectacular mountains to the side -- Sugar Loaf to the east of Copacabana, and Dois Irmãos ("The Two Brothers") to the west of Ipanema.

Though famous, the water at South Zone beaches may not always be clean enough for swimming. Water quality goes down after heavy rain that washes pollution out to the sea. Leblon and Ipanema are usually OK; Copacabana sometimes has problems, especially after very rainy days. It is advised to ask your lifeguard. The seas at Leblon and Ipanema are also somewhat rougher than at Copacabana. Even when they appear calm this can be deceptive. A common problem is when swimmers venture out beyond the breakers and then cannot get back. There are lifeguards at all of the ``postos´´ and surfers can be relied on to help out swimmers in trouble. There is also a rescue helicopter that pulls people out of the water in a net. But you don´t really want to suffer the embarassment of this happening to you so even if you are a strong swimmer, take care!

[edit][add listing] Buy

  • There's a hippie fair every Sunday at Praça General Osório, at the east end of Ipanema. You will find everything from soapstone Redentor statues to swizzle sticks carved with Amazonian birds in one place here, and there are several vendors selling the same thing so you can have fun bargaining.
  • The Hype Babalonia at the Ipanema race track on Saturdays has some more upscale merchandise and you will find fewer tourists here, and is a place where middle class cariocas do some bargain shopping.
  • Modern Sound, Rua Barata Ribeiro 502, [7]. Located in Copacabana, it is one of Brazil's biggest music shops. Sometimes there's also live music in the café.
  • Books. Brazilians are still great book readers and Zona Sul has plenty of bookshops. In Ipanema a small selection of English-language books can be found at ``Travessa`` at Rua Visconde de Pirajá 572. There are two other bookshops, at 273 and 276 Rua Visconde de Pirajá. All three have cafés and allow you to pick a book from the display to peruse while drinking and eating snacks.

If you'd rather avoid the menacing guards at shopping malls in Barra da Tijuca, the upscale galleries in Ipanema are loaded with boutiques of every kind. The atmosphere here is much more pleasant, and you won't think you've been teleported to the Mall of America. Grittier galleries can be found in Copacabana, thronging with Bermuda-short and t-shirt clad American and European tourists. The denizens on the street outside the galleries can easily trip-up the unwary tourist, and although the police patrols this area heavily, and crimes tend to be petty, it's a hassle best to be avoided, when there are better alternatives.

[edit][add listing] Eat

[edit] Budget

Go to any lanchonete for a pastel or salgado (local pastry) for less than R$2. Typical pastries are coxinha (chicken nugget shaped like a chicken leg), fimose (sausage nugget), and unique Rio's joelho (rolled dough filled with ham and cheese). Also try pão de queijo (cheese baked dough), typical from Minas Gerais but very common in Rio as well.

For drinking, ask for guaraná (soda made of an Amazon seed), mate (sweet ice tea; not like Rio Grande do Sul or Argentina's hot and sour mate), água de coco (natural coconut water) or caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). Warning: look for clean places, for hygiene can be poor in many street shops.

  • Cervantes, Av Prado Junior 335B - Copacabana. Fastest food in Rio. Famous for making their classical Filet Mignon and Pineapple sandwhich in the blink of an eye.

[edit] Mid-range

  • If you're up for Italian food check out the Cantina Donanna in Rua Domingos Ferreira 63-B in Copacabana. Main dishes are $R10-20.
  • Gula Gula in Rua Anibal de Mendonça 132 in Ipanema, tel. +55-21-2259-3084, is a trendy restaurant with excellent salads, main dishes and deserts. Main dishes are $R20-35.
  • Good-value rodízio can be found at Carretão [8] in Rua Siqueiro Campos 23 in Copacabana or Rua Visconde de Pirajá 112. All you can eat salad and barbecue is R$24-31.
  • Nam Thai Rua Rainha Guilhermina 95 B - Leblon. Fairly authentic and very popular Thai restaurant. Reservations essential at weekends. Tels.: (21) 2259-2962/ 2259-3172. R$50-100.
  • There are lots of per kilo restaurants and a full plate of food at one of these will not normally cost more than R$20. A good one in the heart of Ipanema is New Natural, Rua Barão do Torre 173, which is attached to a whole foods shop and has a good buffet selection, including sushi.

[edit] Splurge

[edit] Churrasco

  • Porcão, Rua Barão da Torre 218, Ipanema, +55-21-3202–9150, [9]. Attractive salad bar (with sushi and prepared seafood dishes as well) for R$54.

[edit] Sushi

Two modern sushi restaurants in Leblon are near each other:

  • Manekineko, Rua Dias Ferreira 410, Leblon, tel. +55-21-2540-7641.
  • Sushi Leblon, Rua Dias Ferreira 256, Leblon, tel. +55-21-2512-7830.

[edit][add listing] Drink

  • Academia da Cachaça [10], 26 Rua Conde de Bernadotte, Leblon. With over 500 varieties, this is the place to start your studies of Brazil's national drink.
  • Empório at Rua Maria Quitéria 37 in Ipanema is popular with the younger crowd, that hangs out there to listen to djs playing rock. Most of the crowd hangs out there because they are underage and can't get in the underground nightclubs. Gets packed with foreigners during Summer.
  • The Irish Pub, Rua Jangadeiros 14A, Praça General Osório (Ipanema), (21) 2513-3044. Best on Monday nights.  edit
  • Garota de Ipanema, Rua Vinicius de Moraes and Rua Prudente de Morais, Ipanema. There's no better place in Rio, Brazil, or even the world to watch bathing beauties stroll by than this cafe-bar, named after the song which according to legend was written here in 1962.
  • Saturnino Lounge & Bar, Rua Saturno de Brito, 50 (Jardim Botanico), 55 21 3874 0064, [11]. 6PM-2AM. Saturnino bar is perfect to go with friends or on a date, it’s very romantic for a candlelight dinner, and since it´s in an open area, you can see the moon. The ambient is very pleasant. There's a wide variety of different drinks and several options of appetizers that go from seafood to Japanese to burgers. They are open until late hours.  edit
  • Shenanigans Irish Pub & Sports Bar, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 112A (on the Praça General Osório, Ipanema). Great any day but best on Wednesdays, this second-story Irish bar shows only a green awning at street level. Has imported beer(bottles and draught), American pool and a variety of sports on the big screen (NFL, NCAA, NHL, MLB, Football(soccer), Rugby and all local Brazilian sports.  edit

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Ace Hostel, Rua Sao Clemente 23, 1st Floor, Botafogo, (21) 2527-7452, [12]. Basic accommodations in large dormitories. Fabulous breakfast buffet. Excellent value. Right at the beach of Botafogo. Dorms from R$ 25.00.
  • Adventure Hostel, Rua Vinícius de Moraes 174 (in Ipanema), [13]. Dormitory beds start at R$40 for HI-members.
  • Albergue Chave do Rio de Janeiro, Rua General Dionísio 63, is in Botafogo [14].
  • Arpoador Inn, Rua Francisco Otaviano 177, Arpoador. Clean place, older interior, only a sidewalk apart from the beach.
  • CabanaCopa Hostel [15] +55 21 39889912 - Travessa Guimarães Natal 12, Copacabana. Located 3 blocks from the beach, near the subway and next to a beautiful natural park, CabanaCopa is a brand new, unique hostel in the safest part of Copacabana. A large colonial house, fully renovated with spacious ensuite dorms, excellent social areas, great breakfast and friendly, helpful staff.
  • Casa Carioka Rio Hostel (Casa Carioka Rio Hostel), Rua Emilio Berla, 180 (Near Cantagalo Metro station), +55 (21) 3734 2235 (), [16]. (,Rio de Janeiro Hostel) edit Casa Carioka is a hostel for backpackers and travellers in Copacabana, located 4 blocks from the beach and 2 blocks from Cantagalo Metro station. It's run by a fellow backpacker who knows what you need, what you're interested in and where you need to be to get the most out of your time in Rio de Janeiro. Breakfast, kitchen, laundry, WiFi, security lockers and hot showers are all provided. Tours can also be arranged to all the main tourist attractions.
  • Casa 6 [17]. Located in Ipanema, it has a double room and some dormitories.
  • Che Legarto, Rua Anita Garibaldi 87, +55-21-2556-2776, [18]. One of the most popular backpackers spots in Copacabana. Double/Dormbed cost R$90/R$32 per night for HI-members and R$100/R$38 for non-members. Discounts for longterm stays or large groups.
  • Copinha Hostel, Rua Felipe de Oliveira, 11 - Lido, Copacabana, [19]. 4- and 2- bed rooms, clean place. Friendly staff.
  • El Misti Hostel Rio de Janeiro (Hostel Rio de Janeiro), Frederico Pamplona, 20 - Copacabana (Next to Hospital Sao Lucas), 055 21 2547 0800 (), [20]. El Misti Hostel Rio de Janeiro [21] - In Copacabana, Safe area, Cool & Fun, Free pickup Airport, Dorms from $13, Great Breakfast. Te.+55 21 2226 0991 copacabana@elmistihostels.com. U$12.  edit
  • El Misti Hostel Botafogo (Hostel Rio de Janeiro), Praia Botafogo 462 (Front of Botafogo Beach), 055 21 2226 0991 (), [22]. El Misti Hostel Botafogo [23], Praia de Botafogo, 462, casa 9 - Botafogo, info@elmistihostel.com, [24]. U$12.  edit
  • Jucati, Rua Tenente Marones de Gusmão 85, +55-21-2547-5422, [25]. A nicely located five minutes walking from Copacabana beach. Rent well equipped appartments at fair prices (R$120 for 2 pax in March 08). Free internet Wifi available.
  • One Love Hostel, Rua Barao da Torre 125, Ipanema, +55 (21) 8809 3456, Rio de Janeiro Hostels [26]. 4-8 bed dormitories. Breakfast buffet. Great value. A few blocks from Ipanema Beach. Dorms from R$40.</sleep>
  • Pousada Favelinha [27]. Located in Laranjeiras/Santa Teresa, might be your choice if staying in a favela is your cup of tea.
  • Rio Backpackers, Travessa Santa Leocádia 38, Copacabana, [28].
  • Terasse Hostel, Rua Farme de Amoedo 35, Ipanema [29]. One block from the sea. R$40 in dormitory, R$140 for a couple.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Copacabana Praia Hotel, Rua Francisco Otaviano nº 30 - Copacabana - RJ, +55 (21)2172-1001 (fax: +55 (21) 2287-3344), [30]. checkin: 15:00; checkout: 12:00. R$150.  edit
  • Hotel Vermont, Rua Visconde de Piraja 254, 522-0057.[31] Given its superb location in the heart of Ipanema, it is a real bargain with room rates as low as $R100. Affiliated with the nearby San Marco Hotel and Hotel Carlton in Leblon. Very friendly and helpful service.
  • Hotel Hispano Brasileiro, Rua Silveira Martins 135, 265-5990. On a tree-lined side street off Rua do Catete, inexpensive and pleasant.
  • Hotel Monte Blanco, Rua do Catete 160, 225-0121. Excellent location, just steps away from the Metro station and across from the Museu da República, but the rooms could be nicer.
  • Hotel Portinari,Rua Francisco Sá 17,Copacabana, Tel.55 21 3222 - 8800. Reservations reservas@hotelportinari.com.br. This calls itself a Design Hotel. Each floor has a different style but that is really all the difference to a normal hotel. Top floor restaurant for breakfast and a good view of local favelas. R$250-350.
  • Rio Guesthouse, (), [32]. A boutique guest house located on the beachfront of Copacabana, in a 1200 sq meter Penthouse. Beautifully decorated, very comfortable.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Copacabana Palace Hotel [33] in Copacabana beach is arguably the best hotel in town, dating back to 1923. It's had its share of famous guests over the years.
  • Fasano, Avenida Vieira Souto, 80, Ipanema. [34]
  • Ipanema Plaza [35] - Rua Farme de Amoedo, 34 - Ipanema. Tel: 3687-2000 (fax: 3687-2001, reservas@ipanemaplaza.com.br). Neither super-luxurious or ultra-modern, the Plaza's rooms are quite clean and comfortable. The swimming pool on the terrace is nice and the hotel's location is convenient for both shoppers and beach goers.
  • Sheraton [36] is the only hotel in Zona Sul with direct beach access. It is at the far end of Leblon.
  • Hotéis Othon [37] has eight locations in Rio.

[edit] Rentals

  • Apartur Imóveis, Rua Visconde de Pirajá, 371 - S/L 204, Ipanema. Tel. 55-21-2267-1191, 2287-5797, apartur@globo.com
  • Rental apartment, Ipanema, tel. +55-21-2239-3089, (bromirsk@matrix.com.br). Two bedrooms, living room, American kitchen w/dish washer , laundry facility, bathroom w/bathtub. All rooms with air-conditioning. 24 hour doorman and near by stores. Quiet, comfortable and two blocks from Ipanema Beach.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!