Rio de Janeiro/Zona Sul
From Wikitravel
Contents
The South Zone of Rio de Janeiro is usually where most of the tourists (and there are always lots of them) stay. Lots of hotels, from the fancy 5 stars like Copacabana Palace to hostels, line up in the neighborhoods of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, also three famous beaches.
A little closer to downtown, the Gloria, Catete, Botafogo, and Flamengo neighborhoods are pleasant and full of carioca character.
[edit] Get in
Most parts of the Zona Sul are easily accessible by bus or metro. The subway currently runs as far as Siqueira Campos, by Copacabana, but it will eventually be extended to Ipanema.
[edit][add listing] See
Sugar Loaf mountain (Pão de Açucar) is in Urca, a very quiet neighborhood just a few minutes from Copacabana. It is a pretty secure place too, thanks to the various military institutions nearby. The cable car [1] takes you up to a breathtaking view of much of Zona Sul and the center, and also the neighboring city of Niteroi, just across Guanabara Bay.
Corcovado mountain, capped by the 38m statue of Jesus Christ (Cristo Redentor) has been the vantage point for countless picture postcards and travel posters through the ages. It provides a sweeping panorama from the interior of Guanabara bay to the north, to Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Rodrigo de Freitas' Lagoon) to the south. Corcovado can be reached by car or by train, on a ride through Floresta da Tijuca (Tijuca Forest), an island of original subtropical forest in the middle of one of the most populous cities of South America.
You can also visit the forest, and see its many waterfalls and hiking trails. Most of the paths are well-marked, but you can get maps and guides as well. There are many hiking trails in the city, leading to places like Corcovado, Sugar Loaf and others, all with different views of the city.
[edit] Museums
- Museu Carmen Miranda in Flamengo Park has an amusing collection of photographs, posters, musical recordings, and of course gigantic fruity hats worn by the singing star. The building looks like an abandoned space capsule in the middle of the park.
- Museu da República (Palácio do Catete), Rua do Catete 153, 285-6350. The former presidential palace is now a historical museum, with an adjacent art gallery and small theater that occasionally shows free movies. Located right next to Metro Catete station.
- Museu Villa-Lobos [2], Rua Sorocaba, 200 - Botafogo. Heitor Villa-Lobos wrote about 1000 pieces and is considered one of the world's greatest composers. The museum collection includes a number of personal items, musical instruments, pictures and hand-written work by Villa-Lobos.
- Casa das Canoas [3], Estrada das Canoas, 2310 - São Conrado. The former residence of architect Oscar Niemeyer. Open Tuesday to Friday in the afternoon. Call in advance.
[edit][add listing] Do
[edit] Beaches
Perhaps the best thing do in Rio is nothing, while sitting on its glorious beaches. Of the two most famous, Copacabana and Ipanema, the former gets a bit more crowded (perhaps that will change when the Metro gets extended). Both have spectacular mountains to the side -- Sugar Loaf to the east of Copacabana, and Dois Irmãos ("The Two Brothers") to the west of Ipanema.
Though famous, the water at South Zone beaches may not always be clean enough for swimming. Leblon and Ipanema are usually OK; Copacabana sometimes has problems, especially after very rainy days. It is advised to ask your lifeguard.
[edit] Parks
The lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas) in Ipanema is popular for jogging. After you've completed the 7.5-km circuit, you can retire to your luxurious Ipanema penthouse apartment-- or just imagine it.
[edit][add listing] Eat
[edit] Budget
Go to any lanchonete for a pastel or salgado (local pastry) for less than R$2. Typical pastries are coxinha (chicken nugget shaped like a chicken leg), fimose (sausage nugget), and unique Rio's joelho (rolled dough filled with ham and cheese). Also try pão de queijo (cheese baked dough), typical from Minas Gerais but very common in Rio as well.
For drinking, ask for guaraná (soda made of an Amazon seed), mate (sweet ice tea; not like Rio Grande do Sul or Argentina's hot and sour mate), água de coco (natural coconut water) or caldo de cana (sugarcane juice). Warning: look for clean places, for hygiene can be poor in many street shops.
- Cervantes, Av Prado Junior 335B - Copacabana. Fastest food in Rio. Famous for making their classical Filet Mignon and Pineapple sandwhich in the blink of an eye.
[edit] Mid-range
- If you're up for Italian food check out the Cantina Donanna in Rua Domingos Ferreira 63-B in Copacabana. Main dishes are $R10-20.
- Gula Gula in Rua Anibal de Mendonça 132 in Ipanema, tel. +55-21-2259-3084, is a trendy restaurant with excellent salads, main dishes and deserts. Main dishes are $R20-35.
- Good-value rodízio can be found at Carretão [4] in Rua Siqueiro Campos 23 in Copacabana or Rua Visconde de Pirajá 112. All you can eat salad and barbecue is R$24-31.
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Churrasco
- Porcão [5], Rua Barão da Torre 218, Ipanema, tel. +55-21-3202–9150. Attractive salad bar (with sushi and prepared seafood dishes as well) for R$54.
[edit] Sushi
Two modern sushi restaurants in Leblon are near each other:
- Manekineko, Rua Dias Ferreira 410, Leblon, tel. +55-21-2540-7641.
- Sushi Leblon, Rua Dias Ferreira 256, Leblon, tel. +55-21-2512-7830.
[edit][add listing] Drink
- Garota de Ipanema, Rua Vinicius de Moraes and Rua Prudente de Morais, Ipanema. There's no better place in Rio, Brazil, or even the world to watch bathing beauties stroll by than this cafe-bar, named after the song which according to legend was written here in 1962.
- Academia da Cachaça [6], 26 Rua Conde de Bernadotte, Leblon. With over 500 varieties, this is the place to start your studies of Brazil's national drink.
- Empório at Rua Maria Quitéria 37 in Ipanema is popular with the younger crowd, that hangs out there to listen to djs playing rock. Most of the crowd hangs out there because they are underage and can't get in the underground nightclubs. Gets packed with foreigners during Summer.
[edit][add listing] Buy
- There's a hippie market every Sunday at Praça General Osório, at the east end of Ipanema. You will find everything from soapstone Redentor statues to swizzle sticks carved with Amazonian birds in one place here, and there are several vendors selling the same thing so you can have fun bargaining.
- The Hype Babalonia at the Ipanema race track on Saturdays has some more upscale merchandise and you will find fewer tourists here, and is a place where middle class cariocas do some bargain shopping.
- Modern Sound, Rua Barata Ribeiro 502, in Copacabana is one of Brazil's biggest music shops. Sometimes there's also live music in the café.
If you'd rather avoid the menacing guards at shopping malls in Barra da Tijuca, the upscale galleries in Ipanema are loaded with boutiques of every kind. The atmosphere here is much more pleasant, and you won't think you've been teleported to the Mall of America. Grittier galleries can be found in Copacabana, thronging with Bermuda-short and t-shirt clad American and European tourists. The denizens on the street outside the galleries can easily trip-up the unwary tourist, and although the police patrols this area heavily, and crimes tend to be petty, it's a hassle best to be avoided, when there are better alternatives.
[edit][add listing] Sleep
[edit] Budget
- Ace Hostel [7], Rua Sao Clemente 23, 1st Floor, Botafogo, Phone (21) 2527-7452. Basic accomodations in large dormitories. Fabulous breakfast buffet. Excellent value. Right at the beach of Botafogo. Dorms from R$ 25.00.
- Adventure Hostel [8], Rua Vinícius de Moraes 174, is in Ipanema. Dormitory beds start at R$40 for HI-members.
- Albergue Chave do Rio de Janeiro [9], Rua General Dionísio 63, is in Botafogo.
- Arpoador Inn - Rua Francisco Otaviano 177, Arpoador - Clean place, older interior, only a sidewalk apart from the beach.
- Casa 6 [10] in Ipanema has a double room and some dormitories.
- Che Legarto, Rua Anita Garibaldi 87, +55-21-2556-2776, [11]. One of the most popular backpackers spots in Copacabana. Double/Dormbed cost R$90/R$32 per night for HI-members and R$100/R$38 for non-members. Discounts for longterm stays or large groups.
- Jucati [12], Rua Tenente Marones de Gusmão 85, +55-21-2547-5422 is nicely located five minutes walking from Copacabana beach.Rent well equiped appartments at fare prices (R$120 for 2 pax in March 08). Free internet Wifi available.
- Pousada Favelinha [13] in Laranjeiras/Santa Teresa might be your choice if staying in a favela is your cup of tea.
- Copinha Hostel [14] Rua Felipe de Oliveira, 11 - Lido, Copacabana - 4- and 2- bed rooms, clean place. Friendly staff.
- Rio Backpackers [15], Travessa Santa Leocádia 38, is in Copacabana.
[edit] Mid-range
- Hotel Vermont, Rua Visconde de Piraja 254, 522-0057.[16] Given its superb location in the heart of Ipanema, it is a real bargain with room rates as low as $R100. Affiliated with the nearby San Marco Hotel and Hotel Carlton in Leblon. Very friendly and helpful service.
- Hotel Hispano Brasileiro, Rua Silveira Martins 135, 265-5990. On a tree-lined side street off Rua do Catete, inexpensive and pleasant.
- Hotel Monte Blanco, Rua do Catete 160, 225-0121. Excellent location, just steps away from the Metro station and across from the Museu da República, but the rooms could be nicer.
[edit] Splurge
- Copacabana Palace Hotel [17] in Copacabana beach is arguably the best hotel in town, dating back to 1923. It's had its share of famous guests over the years.
- Ipanema Plaza [18] - Rua Farme de Amoedo, 34 - Ipanema. Tel: 3687-2000 (fax: 3687-2001, reservas@ipanemaplaza.com.br). Neither super-luxurious or ultra-modern, the Plaza's rooms are quite clean and comfortable. The swimming pool on the terrace is nice and the hotel's location is convenient for both shoppers and beach goers.
- The French chain Le Meridien [19] has a hotel in Copacabana. It has 37 floors and boasts a nice view of the city from the restaurant/bar on the top floor.
- Sheraton [20] is the only hotel in Copacabana with direct beach access.
- Hotéis Othon [21] has eight locations in Rio.
[edit] Rentals
- Rent a Flat [22], Copacabana, 55-21-2257-0559.
- Apartur Imóveis, Rua Visconde de Pirajá, 371 - S/L 204, Ipanema. Tel. 55-21-2267-1191, 2287-5797, apartur@globo.com
- Rental apartment, Ipanema, tel. +55-21-2239-3089, (bromirsk@matrix.com.br). Two bedrooms, living room, American kitchen w/dish washer , laundry facility, bathroom w/bathtub. All rooms with air-conditioning. 24 hour doorman and near by stores. Quiet, comfortable and two blocks from Ipanema Beach.
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