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Riga

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The House of Blackheads in Riga's Town Square.
The House of Blackheads in Riga's Town Square.

Riga is the capital of Latvia, the largest city in the Baltic States, and the second-largest city of the Eastern Baltic. Riga, long a major member of the Hanseatic League and then an important city in the Russian Empire, is experiencing a new Renaissance as the capital of independent Latvia, and many large-scale restoration projects on old buildings have made Riga one of the most attractive cities in Europe. Most famously, Riga is home to the largest concentration of Jugendstil (German Art Nouveau) architecture in the world.

[edit] Understand

In the last few years, Riga has become an increasingly popular destination for Europeans drawn by its old town, its historical importance, and its reputation as the best nightlife spot in Europe.

[edit] History

Riga was founded in 1201 by Albert of Bremen as a base for the Northern Crusades. It developed as the major trade hub of the Eastern Baltic during the high days of the Hanseatic League, ruled by the Archbishop of Riga. The Reformation reached Riga in 1522, which ended the Archbishops' power. After the fall of the Hansa, Riga became a part of first the Swedish and then the Russian Empires, before becoming the capital of independent Latvia in 1918. Riga remained the capital through the Soviet period, and emerged in the 1990's as the capital of newly-independent Latvia.

Germans have inhabited the city since its establishment by Albert, and throughout most of its history Germans were the elite while Latvians remained a lower class. Their position as the elite continued through the Imperial period of Riga. As such, much of the architecture in Riga has been heavily influenced by Germany. The Germans were forcibly repatriated after the Nazi occupation of 1941-44.

Much of Riga was bombed in World War II--the ruins were left to decay until independence when the government, realizing the tourism potential, began to invest in reconstructing and restoring the old buildings. Because of this, Riga has one of the most complete old towns in Europe.

[edit] Talk

The main languages of Riga are Latvian and Russian. English and German are understood by younger people to some extent. In tourist areas there should be no problem with speaking English.


Daugava river and central Riga
Daugava river and central Riga

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Riga International Airport (IATA: RIX) (ICAO: EVRA), [1]. (Latvian - Starptautiskā Lidosta Rīga) Arrivals from and departures to various European (London, Munich, Oslo, etc) and Middle Eastern (Tel Aviv) cities as well as New York City. Bus 22 links the airport (Lidosta) with downtown. Tickets are purchased inside the bus, either from a special person (or if not present from the driver). Have small change ready. The bus to the airport runs until late at night (see schedules: 22 [2] . Bus 22 goes to the central station south of Old Riga. The bus takes approx 40 minutes and you will need to pay 60 santimi and additional 80 santimi for luggage.

Taxi prices, if going from Riga airport to city, can be very high. Avoid black Mercedes taxis. There is also a bus station in the airport.

[edit] By ferry

Tallink, [13], operates a daily ferry service between Stockholm and Riga.

[edit] By train

Riga's international rail connections are fairly sparse, travelling only to destinations in Russia (as of May 25/2008). Two trains depart from Riga Station for Moscow daily (except New Year's Eve) at 16:20 and 18:10, and one bound for St. Petersburg at 19:30. Check Latvian Railways for more information, [14]

[edit] Get around

Be aware that cars are not allowed in Old Town (although enforcement is somewhat lax at night), but vehicles making "deliveries" are, so if your hotel is in the old town you should take a taxi rather than a rental car.

[edit] By foot

Riga's old town is best explored on foot, especially since cars are no longer allowed. The streets in old town (and some points beyond) are mostly cobblestone, so comfortable shoes are recommended.

[edit] By taxi

Taxis are reasonably-priced but you should be careful, as they may not necessarily follow the shortest route to your destination, especially if you appear to be new to the city. Very occasionally, taxi drivers will try to overcharge you, but the majority are honest, courteous and very helpful. Many drivers speak a few words of English. Red Taxis 80001313 and Smile Taxi are the more trustworthy taxi companies in Riga, and they have the contract with the airport and with many of the better hotels.

[edit] By Public Transport

There are trams, buses and trolley buses which are pretty easy to use, however some additional info is worth knowing:

  • Day tickets are now available (as of a new system in April 2009) priced Ls 1.50 and run for 24hrs from first use, covering all travel on city buses, trolley-buses and trams. Tickets are sold in ticket offices, in press kiosks (the latter can be found on practically every corner) as well as in Narvesen shops. A single ticket costs 40 santims bought in advance or 50 santims from the driver. Once inside validate the ticket by using the yellow device.
  • The Riga Card allows the holder to travel free on public transportation.
  • There is a good website to search for connections[15] and also a list of routes[16].

[edit] By car

There are several car rental offices in Riga airport as well as in other parts of the town. You can even rent a cheap soviet style car. However, be aware of the ban on cars in old town.

The view southeast from St. Peter's Church in Riga's Old Town
The view southeast from St. Peter's Church in Riga's Old Town

[edit][add listing] See

Riga has several districts. The ones most interesting to tourists are the Old Town and the area around the Freedom Monument (just outside Old Town).

A walking tour is by far the best way to see these two districts. The tourist office (located inside the House of Blackheads) offers both guided tours and free pamphlets, complete with detailed descriptions of many buildings, for independent walks. Private companies also operate tours.

The Riga Card [17] has discounts for museums and some tourist attractions.

A virtual walk through the Old Riga is available at [18].

The mostly residential areas outside Riga center are largely filled with grey apartment blocks built in the typically Soviet style. These areas are nearly identical to those all over the former USSR and some cities in western Europe. However, they do give an idea of how the vast majority of the people in Riga live and of the history of the area.

[edit] Old Town

The area around Old Town is mostly built between 1860 and 1914 and has many buildings that resemble the ones in Berlin, Paris or Rome. Many Soviet movies about West were filmed here during Soviet times, as it was considerably easier to film here than to go overseas.

  • The Town Square is the locus of the Old Town. In the center stands the Statue of Roland. The following buildings are found around the Town Square:
    • House of Blackheads, 1 kalku iela, ☎ 371 7044300. The House of Blackheads is where the merchants-to-be had their guild. Part of this building is the Tourist information office, the rest is a fascinating museum. The upper levels house grand ballrooms while the basement has a wine cellar and several exhibits relating to trading in Riga. Admission Fee. (latitude,) edit
    • The Town Hall does not seem to be open to visitors, but is pretty to look at.
    • Museum of Occupations, 1 Strelnieku laukums, ☎ 371 7 212 715 (). The Museum of Occupations is easy to see as it is clearly out-of-place. In the Soviet days, this austere black building was a museum to the Riflemen, a group of Latvians who attempted to annex Latvia for the Soviet union. Now it houses a museum of Latvia's time under both the Nazi and Soviet occupations. Very long, but very moving--essential for anyone interested in the history of the USSR or Nazi Germany. Outside the building away from the town square stands the Soviet-era Monument to the Riflemen. Free. (latitude,) edit
    • St. Peter's Church, 19 Skarnu iela, ☎ 371 7229426 (fax: 371 7211375). St. Peters Church, dating to 1209, is Riga's oldest church. Besides its ensemble of architecture, the church has an elevator to the tower from where you can see all of Riga (service not available on Mondays). 2 Lats. (latitude,) edit
    • St. John's Church, 7 Jana iela. 10AM - 5PM TUE-SAT. A smaller, less spectacular church near St. Peter's. There is a nice altar inside, and unlike most Riga churches, this one is free.  edit
    • Porcelain Museum, 9 Kalēju iela, (), [19]. 11AM - 6PM TUE-SUN. Covers the history of porcelain in Riga through the 19th and 20th centuries. 1 Lat, 50 Santi for children, free under 7.  edit
    • Sun Museum, 1 Kungu iela, ☎ +371 67225587 (), [20]. 10AM - 7PM daily. A definite contender for Riga's weirdest museum, this one covers the history of sun mythology and its role in Latvian culture. 2 Lats, 1.5 Lats for students, children free.  edit
  • The Big Guild, 6 Amatu iela. Housed the guild of the tradesmen, who would join after being a member of the Blackheads (see House of Blackheads). Home to the Latvian Philharmonic, but you can't just walk inside. It's the exterior that's worth seeing though.  edit
  • The Little Guild, 5 Amatu iela. Another pretty building just behind the Big Guild, this one housed the craftsmen's guild. Like the Big Guild, you can't go inside except for a performance.  edit
  • The House of Black Cats, Next to the Big Guild. This building (currently a pub of no particular note) is most famous for the two small statues of black cats on the roofs. The black cat is a symbol of Riga.  edit
  • Wagner Concert Hall, 4 Vāgnera iela. Wagner once lived in Riga, on the street now named after him. This hall, where he performed, occasionally holds concerts.  edit
  • St. Saviour's Anglican Church, 2a Anglikanu iela, ☎ 6722 2259, [21]. Riga's only Anglican church is a little bit decrepit and seems to be abandoned, but it's still nice from the outside.  edit
  • St. Jacob's Catholic Church, 2 Klostera iela. Dating to 1226, this is one of the few Catholic churches left in Riga. At one point, it housed one of Riga's first schools. Free.  edit
  • Near the Northern boundry of the Old Town is the Riga Castle(Rīgas Pils). This castle houses two museums, the Museum of Foreign Art and the Museum of Latvian History. The castle itself is fairly uninteresting.
    • National History Museum of Latvia, 3 Pils Laukums, ☎ 7223004 (, fax: 7220586). 11AM - 5PM WED-SUN. The History Museum is interesting, however there is little English (Every room has its exhibits summarized on a single plaque). However, the museum does give a very good idea of Latvian history, and will give you a good understanding of the area. 2 Lat admission fee, plus 5 lats to take pictures. (latitude,) edit
    • Museum of Foreign Art, 3 Pils Laukums, ☎ 6722 6467, [22]. 11AM - 5PM TUE-SUN. The less interesting of the two museums: this is just a standard art museum. 2.5 lats for admission, plus 50 santi for photograph permission.  edit
The Dom Cathedral in central Riga.
The Dom Cathedral in central Riga.
  • These buildings are in or near the Dome Square:
    • Dome Cathedral, 1 Doma Laukums, ☎ 7227573. The Dome Cathedral, dating to 1207 is one of Riga's symbols. The 6768-pipe organ inside is particularly spectacular. Besides the organ, however, the interior is rather spartan, so you'll have to decide for yourself whether or not to pay the entrance fee. (latitude,) edit
    • Museum of the Barricades of 1991, 3 Krāmu iela, ☎ +371 67213525, [23]. 10AM - 5PM MON-FRI, 11AM - 5PM SAT. Covers the dramatic events that occurred in the tumultuous final year of the USSR, when Soviet authorities sent troops into Riga to overthrow the elected Latvian government. free.  edit
    • The Three Brothers, 17, 19, and 21 Mazā Pils iela, [24]. 9AM - 5PM TUE-THUR, 9AM - 4PM Fri. The Three Brothers are the oldest dwelling houses in Riga. One of them has a small architecture museum inside, along with changing exhibits about Latvia.  edit
    • Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation, 4 Palasta iela, [25]. May - Sept: 11AM - 5PM daily, Oct - May: 11AM - 5PM WED-SUN. Actually 2 museums plus a number of special exhibits, though you pay one price. Like the National Museum, English translations are limited to plaques summarizing rooms, but here you can also pick up pieces of paper describing some of the exhibits. Both of the main museums are quite interesting, and they provide a good idea of what Riga was like in the past. 3 lats plus more for photo permission.  edit
    • Latvian Parliament (Saiema), 11 Jekaba iela, [26]. A rather plain building housing the Saiema, Latvia's parliament. It has had a number of uses--including as a soviet-era museum. Currently not open to visitors  edit
    • Arsenal Museum of Art, 1 Torna iela, ☎ 6735 7527, [27]. April - Sept: 11AM - 7 PM Tue-Sun, Oct - Mar: 11AM - 5PM Tue-Sun. Riga's premier museum for modern art.  edit
    • Swedish Gate, Btw Torna and Aldaru iela. The last remaining gate from the old city walls.  edit
  • At the Northwestern end of Old Town lies the Powder Tower, along with the last remaining section of the city walls. The Powder Tower houses the Museum of War.
    • Museum of War, 20 Smilsu iela, ☎ 6722 8147. May - Sept: 10AM - 6PM Wed-Sun, Oct - April: 10AM - 5PM Wed-Sun.  edit
    • St. Jacob's Barracks, Torna iela. The primary attraction here is the last remaining stretch of city wall directly opposite the barracks.  edit
  • Wander around the old town -- there are lots of beautiful buildings.

[edit] Around the Freedom Monument

  • Freedom Monument, 1 Brivivas iela. Freedom Monument is one of Latvia's national symbols. It was erected after the first independence and surprisingly never taken down by the Soviets (although laying flowers at its feet was forbidden). The statue at the top of the monument is "Milda." (latitude,) edit
Scary Art Nouveau designs in Riga.
Scary Art Nouveau designs in Riga.
  • Bastejkalns, Between Raina Bulvaris and Basteja Bulvaris. A small, pleasant park surrounding Brivibas Bulvaris. Sites in the Bastejkalns include a Chinese and a Japanese building, and the Bridge of Love over the Pilsetas Canal. The Bridge of Love has several locks on the railings put up by recently married couples. There is also a memorial to the two people killed here in the tumultuous events of 1991.  edit
  • Alberta and Elizabetes streets (iela) are the best place to see the creations of Art Nouveau architect Eisenstein, famous of his splendid style. Other Art Nouveau buildings can be seen in the area around the Freedom Monument, including the embassies on Raina Bulvaris and on Strelnieku iela.
  • The following attractions are in Esplanade Park, which is only a block from the Freedom Monument:
    • National Museum of Art. Houses many works by Latvian artists.  edit
    • Riga Orthodox Cathedral. The Orthodox Cathedral was erected during Russian rule ofr Russian residents. In contrast to its relatively plain exterior, t is spectacular on the inside, but be aware that shorts are not allowed. free.  edit
    • At the Western corner of the park lies a clock donated by Riga's sister city Kobe.

[edit] Other Sights

  • Mežaparks, (Take Tram 11). Mežaparks(English: Forest Park) is a pleasant park area on the outskirts of Riga. There are large, gorgeous residential houses once inhabited by Riga's pre-war elite during the summers. They were largely let go during Soviet times but many are now being refurbished, repainted, and brought back to their original glory.  edit
    • Riga Zoo, 1 Meza Prospekts. The Riga Zoo is small, but fairly popular (latitude,) edit
    • Riga Motor Museum. The Riga Motor Museum contains Stalin's and Brezhnev's vehicles. (latitude,) edit
  • Latvian Baltic Coast, (Take the Tukums-bound train to Majori). The Coast of Latvia on the Baltic Sea is amazing on a snowy day!  edit
  • Riga is full of different parks, many of them extremely picturesque. The central park along of city channel was created by German garden architect Kuphaldt.
  • Riga Ethnographic Open Air Museum (Brīvdabas muzejs), 440 Brivibas (Take the A2(E77) to the East out of Riga or take bus N.1 or Tram 1, 3, 6 (but from the tram there is a 2 km walking distance).), ☎ 7994106 (, fax: 7994178). The Riga Ethnographic Museum is in Jugla, near a lake of the same name. There are many traditional Latvian countryside houses collected in a forest/park and exhibitions inside them about the traditional things. The employees are often dressed in the traditional Latvian costumes, creating a nice atmosphere.  edit
  • Maskavas forštate ((English: Moscow Suburb)). A district with old wooden houses and other sights.  edit
    • Choral Synagouge, At Gogola and Dzirnavu iela. Mostly ruined, however there is a memorial to Latvians who saved Jews during the Holocaust.  edit
    • Russian Orthodox Church of the Annunciation, 9 Gogola iela.  edit
    • Grebenshchikov Church, 73 Krasta iela. An Old Believers' church.  edit
    • Jesus Church, 18 Elijas iela. An unusually-designed Lutheran church.  edit
    • Latvian Academy of Sciences, 1 Akademijas laukums, ☎ 6722 5361. Balcony: May - Sept: 9AM - 8PM daily. Built in 1953, this building is often called Stalin's Birthday Cake because of it's austere and ornamented design. The balcony is open to visitors.  edit
  • Andrejsala. An artists' island behind the passengers port is starting to emerge here.  edit
  • Left Bank Riga (Latvian: Pārdaugava) is less frequently visited by tourists yet has some interesting sites of it's own.
    • Riga TV Tower, 1 Zaķusalas krastmala, ☎ 7108643, [28]. A 368 meter-high tower built of concrete and standing on three legs.It has an observation deck at a height of 97 metres. The inexpensive tours feature a tour guide but don't depend on the guide speaking much English!  edit
    • Āgenskalns, (Take Tram 2, 4, or 5). A historical part of Pārdaugava, full of interesting architecture  edit
      • Victory Monument (Uzvaras piemineklis), (Get off the tram at the second stop after the bridge over the Daugava). A splendid example of high Soviet art and the biggest occupation-era monument in Latvia. If you've never seen a Soviet monument before, you should really check this out.  edit
      • Railway Museum, 2 - 4 Uzbaras bulvaris, ☎ 6723 2849, [29]. 10AM - 5PM TUE-SUN. The railway museum exhibits several collections of Soviet rolling stock.  edit
    • Ķīpsala, (Cross the Vanšu bridge over the Daugava). An island with Nordic Dwelling architecture, solitude, and delicious sights of Riga over the river Daugava  edit
    • Riga Aviation Museum, (At Riga-Spilve International Airport). 10 - 4. Bored at the airport? Check out the Riga Aviation museum, which contains several rare aircraft. 5 Euros. (latitude,) edit

[edit][add listing] Do

  • Sit outside in the summer months and enjoy the day. Go to the river and take a walk during summer days to see the sunset.
  • Latvian National Opera, 3 Aspazijas bulvaris, (), [30]. A pretty building in its own right, this is also a nice place to see an opera or ballet. 4 - 45 Lats depending on seat.  edit
  • See a concert at the Big Guild (see above).
  • Go to the Skyline Bar at the top (26th floor) of Reval Hotel near the Freedom Monument. Excellent views and moderately priced drinks (beer 2.20 Lats Cocktail 4-5 Lats). Finding a table next to the windows might be difficult after 11PM.
  • Go on a trip to the east of Riga. You will find a large band of parks and gardens dating back to the 19th Century. Almost 20% of Riga's city area is devoted to these well-kept gardens and they should certainly be visited.
  • A free self-guided booklet of walking tours is available from the tourist information office in the town hall square, and the two walking routes begin from here. These walks cover the old town and the main city centre sights as well as heading out to view the Art Nouveau district. It's all pretty small scale so it's easy to do each of these in around an hour, or linger and read every detail in the booklet - in the absence of any signs or plaques around the city the booklet gives you an insight to what you are seeing.
  • You can also try Eat Riga, an alternative walking tour operating daily from Saint Peters church. Info on these can be found in the main info centre, great way to see more of the places in the city hidden away.
  • A self-guided audio tour RigaQuest [31] is convenient and affordable way to become acquainted with the old city. Includes almost all known facts and legends about old town. Professional voice recording. The route is available for you at any time online. After you get mp3 files and print the navigation map you can walk the route through whenever you wish, making stops for a coffee-pause or for lunch.
  • If you are looking for something with a little more action contact Naughty Squirrel tours based out of a hostel in the Old Town (The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel - see budget accommodation below). They offer everything including Cafe tours, Museums Tours, AK-47 shooting, Bungee Jumping, Scenic Flights over the Old Town, Bobsled, Paintball, Go-Karts, Russian Car Ralley, Canoe trips, Beach excursions, Sigulda Day Tours, Riga Bar and Club tour and much more...

[edit][add listing] Buy

  • Don't go to the souvenir shops, instead buy items like amber and wool mittens and socks in the central market or throughout Old Riga in little stands. You might haggle and get good prices for souvenirs.
  • During Christmas season there is a small market which offers lots of festive fare.
  • Konventa Seta, Behind St. John's Church. A former convent courtyard that now contains several touristy shops.  edit
  • Central Market (Centrāltirgus), 1 Centrāltirgus, [32]. 8AM - 5PM daily. This striking building near the central train station began life as an airship hangar in the 1930s, but is now an excellent place to buy fresh produce, meat, dairy, and the occasional counterfeit goods, though these have been mostly eradicated. The market is actually quite non-touristy but very good for souvenirs. There are lots of small cafes scattered around the markets that serve up cheap local eats.  edit

  • Latgalite, Corner of Gogola and Dzirnavu iela. If you are looking for Soviet era items, such as hats, medals, pins, or complete uniforms, go to this flea market. On the way there you will see old buildings that aren't exactly well conserved, but there are some that are breathtaking.  edit
  • Galerija Istaba, 31 Krišjāņa Barona iela. Nice local artwork can be found here. There's also a small cafe/bar on the second floor with a nice, laid-back atmosphere.  edit
  • STOCKMANN, 13 Janvara iela, ☎ +371 6 707 1222 (fax: +371 6 707 1254). 1st Floor: 9AM - 10PM MON-SAT, 10AM - 10PM SUN 2nd Floor: 10AM - 9PM daily. The Latvian branch of this Finnish department store chain is right by the train station.  edit

[edit][add listing] Eat

Riga, as the most vibrant and cosmopolitan city of the Baltics, offers countless opportunities to sample both local cuisine and international favorites. Latvian food can be hearty, using a lot of potato, cabbage, beef, pork and fish. A diversity of foreign cuisines is also available -- sushi restaurants in particular are currently in vogue.

[edit] Budget

  • Varzob, 21 Peldu Iela, ☎ 67211332. An Uzbek restaurant. The plov is an excellent choice, as is the Shashlik  edit
  • Čili Pica, Several locations (One near the Freedom Monument, another on the ground floor of the Stockman mall near central station). pm. Cheap but good pizza.  edit
  • If you want to try some Latvian type of food go to "Smilšu Pulkstenis" in Kalku iela #7 ;) Still cheap and tasty!
  • Lido is a chain with various small restaurants (e.g. on 65 Elizabetes St.) and one big one, where you can get lots of food for good prices simply by pointing at it.
    • Lido Entertainment Center, 76 Krasta iela (Take Tram 3, 7, or 9 to Krasta masīvs), ☎ +371 7 504 420 (fax: +371 7241168). Main Restaurant: 11AM - 11PM daily, Express Restaurant: 1PM - 11PM daily, Beer Cellar: 6PM - 12PM MON-FRI, 12AM - 12PM Holidays, Playroom: 5PM - 10PM MON-FRI, 12PM - 10PM Holidays.  editThe Russian-themed Lido Entertainment Center is situated a mile or two east of the city centre near the bank of the Daugava. There is a bus to and from Riga. The wooden building features three floors of dining, a built-in wooden windmill, and a small amusement park outside.
      • The ground floor and basement operate to a cafeteria style - you load your tray and pay at the cash register, and take it back to your table. There is a huge choice available, including a variety of soups such as borscht and the Latvian cold beetroot soup, and meat counters arranged by type (so you'll find a chicken bay with kebabs, breasts, chicken sausages, etc, then the same for fish, red meats, etc), at surprisingly low prices. Expect to pay around L2.3 for a meat main course and L0.5 for a plateload of roast potatoes. Blinis are another specialty here. Savoury (plain, cheese) or sweet (banana, strawberry) pancakes are around L0.4. The basement is set out as a beer cellar and has a more limited selection of hot foods (though you can buy from the main floor and bring it down) with live entertainments in the evening.
      • The top floor is a dressier restaurant with a set charge of L11 for a buffet of 100 cold dishes, and again you can augment this with items from the main floor on a pay-as-you-go basis. Note that the Lido restaurants only accept cash.
    • Alus Seta (literally Beer Yard), also part of the Lido chain, serves huge portions of excellent meat and two veg from a grill at the front of the tavern, as well as an excellent choice of Beer. Probably the best value place in town.
    • Staburags - Part of the Lido chain, although á là carte based and not cafeteria-style. Rustic interior, low prices and large portions of traditional Latvian food. Plays pseudo-traditional Latvian music with synthesized backing.
  • If you want to try good food for student prices during the school year (September to June), look for the student cafeteria on Ķīpsala Island. Several sets of home-like food are offered in a cozy atmosphere.

[edit] Midrange

  • Le Crabe, Jauniela 24, ☎ (+371) 67212416, [33]. 12AM-12PM. Simply one of the best restaurants in town. Chef used to work for the prominent Skonto Fish Restaurant. Best choice of Champagne in Riga, some available by glass from 5 Ls, very reasonable prices (Bottle of Philipe Brugnon 1er Cru Rose for 33 Ls)  edit
  • Vermanitis, 65 Elizabetes St. The small restaurant mentioned under LIDO above deserves its own listing. A fantastic range of Latvian food in "authentic" environment at prices that will stun you for their cheapness. The food is just what you need after a day's tourism & leave space for the heavenly deserts  edit
  • Alus Ordenis, 15 Raina bulvaris, ☎ 6781 4190. Serves rural Latvian food for an eminently reasonable price. Try pork shanks or bull testicles!!  edit
  • Juffin's 12, 10 Aldaru Street, ☎ (+371) 67224271 (, fax: (+371) 67224272), [34]. 11AM-11PM. If you are in a mood to treat yourself and friends to a great fare this restaurant is the right place. With reasonable prices, the quality of the wonderfully inventive but simple European/Oriental food is amongst the best in Riga. Stunning wine list and prompt service come together to make this rather unsung Vercriga fixture one of Riga’s top dining places.  edit
  • Osiris, 31 Krisjanis Barona iela. An artsy cafe with a cool interior, fireplace and pancakes worth killing for. While there, drop by Gallerija Istaba for another cup of coffee or beer, and make sure to check out some of the artwork sold downstairs.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Rozengrāls - an authentic medieval restaurant in a real medieval basement in the Old Town. Serves tasty medieval foods and beverages, more info on homepage [35].
  • Vincents, Elizabetes 19, ☎ (+371) 67332634. M. - F.: Noon-11PM, Sat: 6PM-11PM, Su: Closed. If you're splashing out try Vincents Restaurant which compares favorably to any up market western restaurant at half the price. 20 Ls.  edit

[edit] Other

  • Vecmeita ar kaķi, 1 Mazā Pils iela. This restaurant and bar is a more upmarket option than Lido, serving very good Latvian food.  edit
  • Traktieris (Russian: Трактиръ), 8 Antonijas iela. For a Russian experience, try out Traktieris. Huge servings, great food, loads of vodkas to try out, and a Russian troubadour for entertainment. Few tourists.  edit
  • Cafe Grill Bar/Stork's Nest Pub, 14-16 Kaleju iela, (). A jewel of a restaurant/bar with all the comforts of the USA/UK, serving both Latvian and American food The walls are decorated with American/English memorobilia and there is a large plasma TV showing English or American shows and sporting events..  edit
  • Double Coffee, various all over Riga & Majori. Not just a coffee cafe like Starbucks, but a wide range of teas & coffees + other drinks plus an wide range of food - both Latvian & international. Excellent for lunch or a snack. Reasonable prices too.  edit
  • 13 Kresli, Dome Sq. Still going from Soviet times - 13 Kresli (13 chairs)has grown a bit, but is excellent, especially for tea and snacks  edit

[edit][add listing] Drink

Bar scams in Latvia

Latvia, and Eastern Europe in general, are home to a number of fraud/extortion scams in bars, run by the local mob. Generally the scam begins by coaxing you into a bar, where most often a girl will strike up a conversation with a man who will naturally buy her a drink. He will then be presented with a bill for several hundred Lats. Don't worry, the mob even takes credit cards nowadays - or you might be forced to withdraw money from their handy ATM. If you ask, you will even be presented with a menu and the price listed. The trick to avoiding this scam is to insist on seeing the price of a drink in writing. If not, leave immediately. Here is a list of bars/clubs in Riga the U.S. Embassy specifically warns against visiting (and bars all embassy personnel from visiting):

  • “Foxy Lounge” - Terbatas 2; located below the “Fashion Café” in the basement of the “Vegas” casino at the corner of Terbatas and Merkela streets near the flower market.
  • “Roxy Klub” - Kalku 24; located near the entrance to Old Town on Kalku street.
  • “Lord’s Pub” (formerly “Groks Pub”)—Kalku 22; located next door to Roxy Klub.
  • “Puzzle” (formerly “Pink Panther”)—Kalku 22; also located next door to Groks Pub.
  • “Mary” - Audeju 13; located on the east side of Galleria “Centrs” Mall.
  • “DD Bars”
  • “Saxon” - Laipu 7; located near “Livu Square” in a small street to the right of restaurant “Steiku Haoss”.
  • “Doll House” a.k.a “Zig Zag” – Marstalu 12; located to the right of Reformed Church.
  • “Bar Fly” - Vagnera 8; located near “Livu Square” in a small street to the right of “Roxy”, “Groks” and “Pink Panther”.
  • “Zephry Bar” - located near Galleria Center in Old Town, near the youth hostel.
  • “Mademoiselle Cigar Club” – Valnu street; located in Old Town across from “Lounge 8”.
  • “Nobu Sushi” - Grecinieku 28; located in Old Town.

For your own safety, you should not patronize any of these locations. Many are strip bars or locations of prostitution rings. Consider yourself warned.

Recently, Riga has become a major nightlife destination for tourists. As a result, businesses in Riga are often open later than in other European cities. The price of beers in Riga old town is not particularly cheap, averaging 2 lats each. A specialty liquor is Riga Balsam. It's available almost everywhere and if you're cold, you won't be after a shot of it! It will also clear out your bowels.

  • Sweetday Cafe Tirgoņu 9 in old town, Riga. The Sweetday Cafe is a coffee house that serves freshly homemade cakes that are TO DIE FOR! It has a great cozy atmosphere, the best service in town and I would highly recommend it to anyone!! The owner Inese (she's amazing, speaks english, spanish, russian and a bit of dutch..apart from Latvian obviously and is the sweetest girl ever) says that they just opened recently.
  • Leningrad [36]. After nearly two decades of capitalism and double-digit inflation, some Latvians are looking back to the past. A bar with a retro Soviet interior of assorted communist relics and even period furniture is as good a place as any to enjoy a drink. The beer might not be as cheap as it was in Gorbachev’s time, but for Old Riga the local Brengulis and Czech Kozel are remarkably affordable. The beefy bartender with the shaved head and trimmed beard looks like Lenin on steroids.
  • Pulkvedis is a trendy place popular with a younger crowd, 3 Lats entry fee, dressed down door staff but wouldn't mess with them! ALL of the barmen are v.good and the speed is superb. The basement offers techno-ish and/or alternative sounds. Upstairs which is the busiest area with a mix of pop/dance occasional rock music. It is a very busy place on Thurs/Fri/Sat and is closed on Sunday. Beer 2 lats, vodka orange 2.75, vodka coke 2.50, cocktails average 4-5. Probably the best place in Riga along with the Skyline bar.
  • Cuba Bar. Cozy bar, DJ in the evenings (who mimes!).
  • Skyline Bar, [37]. On the top of Reval hotel in Riga, just perfect view at sunset, not a very good place to visit if you are on budget.
  • Roka kafejnica, Stendera iela 18/20, tel. 63481555, in Liepaja. First rock cafe in Latvia.
  • Double Coffee, commonly found coffee house/restaurant in Riga. They have wireless hotspots, but you need to buy a Lattelekom wifi card. 10% service is added to the bill there.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

[edit] Budget

  • Ala * Hostel and Guesthouse, [38].Old town location, hotel quality and services, hostel prices and atmosphere. Newly renovated building offering rooms or apartments. Handmade decoration and eco frinedly materials.
  • Argonaut Hostel, [39]. Australian & Latvian owned. Constantly the top rated hostel in Riga! The hostel offers Shared/Private dorm rooms with 4, 6 and 8 Beds and Private double, Triple and Quad rooms. 24 hour reception. email: guest@argonaut.lv
  • Naughty Squirrel backpackers Hostel, [40]. 50 Kaleju Iela, Old Riga. Australian & Latvian owned. Rated 4th in the world for May 2009 by hostelworld customers. Offers Shared/Private dorm rooms with 4, 6 and 8 Beds and Private double, Triple and Quad rooms. 24 hour reception. Offers a wide range of alternative tours. Tel: +371 67220073 or email: info@thenaughtysquirrel.com
  • Backpackers Planet, is just 5 min north of the bus station and 5 min south of the train station. The rooms are clean, private, safe, spacious, and have private bathrooms. They are located next to a very nice farmers market and flea market that have good prices on food, clothing, etc... The rate per night was very good at €18 a night for two (low season). It was one of the nicest hostels we stayed in while in Eastern Europe.
  • The BaltHostel, Markela Iela 1, tel (+371) 67224258, [41]. Friendly, multilingual staff just over the road from the central station and a five minute walk from the old town.
  • Barons Hostel, [42]. For the Mature Traveller as they do not accept stag or bucks parties. Is also the HQ for the Australian Chamber of Commerce in Latvia [43]. In the center of town.
  • Central Hostel, [44]. New hostel, bed & breakfast or whatever with many nice double rooms and one 4 beds room. Located near the train station and with all the things you need to spend some days in Riga
  • Doma Hostel, 16 Skunu Street, ☎ (+371) 67213101, [45]. Clean, small, safe, cheap, and in a great location. Not the best place to hang out though. They seem to run a nail salon out of the common room during the day, and the kitchen is the size of a closet. They do have free coffee and tea though  edit
  • Dodo Hotel, [46]. First low cost hotel in Riga, opened in March 2008. Modern and design rooms (shower, WC, flat TV, hairdryer). €29 for double room. Free Wi-Fi. 10 min from old town by tramway. French owned. Dodo Hotel got the "Top Value" distinction by tripadvisor. This means that Dodo Hotel offers a high-quality stay at a great price, as judged by the TripAdvisor community.
  • Elizabeth's Youth Hostel, [47]. Affordable and friendly hostel in the center of town with free internet access. Just outside the Old Town near the main train station but within easy walking distance of everywhere.
  • Friendly Fun Franks Hostel, [48]. The biggest and most famous party hostel in Riga, situated on the banks of the river Daugava in the heart of the beautiful Old Town. Australian/British/Latvian owned, voted best hostel in the world in 2005 and a member of the prestigious Europes Famous Hostels organisation. For more info email friendlyfun@franks.lv or call +371 2599 0612.
  • The Old Town Hostel, [49], also has a nice bar which is always open, and is somehow also a hospitality exchange hang-out.
  • Poshbackpackers Hostel, Pupolu Iela 5, ☎ (+371) 67210917 (), [50]. Privates, doubles as well as 6,8 and 12 room dorms. Opposite the police station so the area is rather safe, and it reasonably near the bus and train stations. Dorms from 8 lats.  edit
  • Riga Hostel, Marstalu Iela 12, tel (+371) 67224520, [51]. Friendly, multilingual staff with a location in the old town center. 62 beds in various hostel configurations.
[edit] Bed & Breakfasts
  • B&B Krisjanis and Gertrude, K.Barona iela 39, in the wooden house diagonally opposite the Barona shopping center, entrance in Gertrudes iela, tel (+371) 67506604, [52]. Homely atmosphere, comfortable, popular with artists and musicians, city centre, walking distance from opera, music academy, and old town.

[edit] Mid-range

  • Apartment Hotel Riga, 196 Brivibas iela, [53]. Apartments on Riga's main street. Every apartment has either two separate beds or one double, as well as a washing machine, television, gas ring, air conditioner, refrigerator, and set of dishes. €25 and up.  edit
  • Hotel EDVARDS, ☎ +371 67439960 (, fax: +371 67439959), [54]. Newly opened in September 2008, the Hotel Edvards is a cosy, family-run hotel in the heart of Riga, in a renovated 19th-century building. 38 Ls. and up.  edit

[edit] Splurge

  • Hotel Bergs, 83 Elizabetes iela, ☎ (+371) 67770900 (fax: (+371) 67770940), [55]. An internationally regarded hotel that opened in 2003 located in the heart of Riga. €180 and up.  edit
  • Hotel Centra Riga, 1 Adeju iela, ☎ 866-538-0187, [56]. A true gem of a hotel. The service here is spectacular, and the management has a habit of upgrading people for no extra charge. Every room comes with a plasma TV, a minibar, and free WiFi. It's in a historic building to boot. €80 and up.  edit
  • Hotel de Rome, 28 Kalku iela, ☎ +371 67087600 (, fax: +371 67087606), [57]. checkin: 2 PM; checkout: 12 AM. Mostly a business hotel, but this Kolonna hotel also has rooms for splurging tourists. Amenities include free wifi, safe, minibar, and satellite television in every room. The hotel also has a guarded parking lot (which requires a surcharge) and a fancy restaurant at the top. Small pets are allowed. €142 and up.  edit
  • Metropole Hotel, 36 Aspazijas bulvaris, ☎ +371 67225411 (, fax: +371 67216140), [58]. Not quite as centrally located as some other hotels, but still quite near Old Town. All rooms have satellite TV, minibar, and WiFi. €93 and up.  edit

[edit] Camping

  • Riga City Camping, [59]. A nice place in the center of town.

[edit] Stay safe

In general Riga is a quiet and safe city where you are unlikely to have any trouble.

When visiting bars and restaurants make sure you know the price before you order and keep track of your spending, so no cheating is possible. Beware of scammers who strike up conversations out of the blue and invite you to visit their favorite club or bar; this is often a favorite way for the fraudsters to rob the foreigners, and the police are unlikely to help if you get scammed.

US embassy has issued travel advisory for clubs and bars in Riga which are involved in crimes against foreign clientele. For whole report please read this page [60] from US Embassy (includes a list of establishments involved)

There are certain scammer places which should be avoided [61] like Lord Pub, Dolls House nightclub, Babylon and Pink Panther. Recently in the Lord Pub two foreigners were billed 300 Ls (~500 Euro) just for two beers. In some nightclubs and around pubs, special girls are employed by the venue to ask foreigners to buy them drinks; all of these drinks are exorbitantly priced.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Embassies

[edit] Get out

From here you might wander west, to see Liepaja , a wonderful city on the Western coast of Latvia, (capital of music and culture, fantastic white soft sand beach with a Beach Hostel [64] less crowded than Jurmala and the famous former military town of Karosta with its Soviet Prison for tourists and many scenic fortresses all around the city are also in Liepaja), or north through Valka to Tartu or Tallinn through Parnu in Estonia, or south to Vilnius or Klaipeda in Lithuania. You can even take a ferry to Sweden.

Sigulda is a resort village just over an hour from Riga by train, featuring a wooded river valley containing forest walks, cable car, bobsleigh track, and three castles, all of which is manageable as a day visitor on foot.

If you have more than just a couple of days in Riga, take a local train from the main Railway station to Jūrmala, a famous seaside resort that was popular amongst citizens of the USSR.

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