Riga

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The Dom Cathedral in central Riga.
The Dom Cathedral in central Riga.

Riga is the capital of Latvia.

[edit] Understand

It is useful to understand that although from 1940 to 1991 Latvia was a part of the USSR, the official language is Latvian. However, a significant minority (up to 30% nationwide and possibly about 45% in the capital Riga) is Russian. The majority of ethnic Latvians living in the city, not only those old enough to have attended school during Soviet times, can also speak and understand Russian. Latvian and Russian belong to different language groups and the difference between them is about as large as difference between English and French. English and also German are widely understood at places regularly visited by tourists and foreigners but you may be out of luck when leaving the city center or visiting places off the beaten track, where you get by only in Latvian or Russian. Young people (born in 1975 or later) usually can speak English anyway.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By Plane

  • Riga International Airport (IATA: RIX) (ICAO: EVRA), [1]. (Latvian - Starptautiskā Lidosta Rīga) Arrivals from and departures to various European (London, Munich, Oslo, etc) and Middle Eastern (Tel Aviv) cities as well as New York City. Bus 22 and 22A links the airport (Lidosta) with downtown. Tickets are purchased inside the bus, either from a special person (or if not present from the driver). Have small change ready. The bus to the airport runs until late at night (see schedules: 22 and 22A). Bus 22 goes to the central station south of Old Riga for 40 santimi. Bus 22A, with the same fare, is an express bus to the cathedral between the Freedom Monument and Reval Hotel Latvija. Bus takes approx 40 minutes and you will need to pay an additional 40 santimi for luggage.

[edit] By Ferry

Tallink, [19], operates a daily ferry service between Stockholm and Riga.

[edit] By Train

Riga's international rail connections are fairly sparse, travelling only to destinations in Russia (as of May 25/2008). Two trains depart from Riga Station for Moscow daily (except New Year's Eve) at 16:20 and 18:10, and one bound for St. Petersburg at 19:30 similarly from Riga Station. Check Latvian Railways for more information, [20]

[edit] Get around

  • Taxis can be cheap but you must be careful, as sometimes they try to get more money than they should and they don't care about giving a long tour through the city to arrive where you want. This must be stressed. Taxi drivers will try to rip you off. Some drivers speak a few words in English. The Red Taxis 8001313 are the only taxi company that can be trusted in Riga and that is why they have the contract with the Airport and with the most professional hotels.
  • There are trams, buses and trolley buses which are pretty easy to use, however some additional info is worth knowing:
    • You have to buy tickets in advance if you plan using the tram or trolley bus (note it does not apply to buses). Tickets are sold in ticket offices, in press kiosks (the latter can be found on practically every corner) as well as in Narvesen shops. One ticket costs 40 santims. You can also buy tickets from the driver, but it will cost 50 santims then. Once inside the tram or the trolley bus, validate the ticket by using the yellow device.
    • Taking the bus doesn't require you to buy a ticket in advance - there is a person who sells tickets ("konduktors"). At each stop, ticket seller goes to each person who boarded and sells them a ticket for that ride. Each ride costs 40 santims just as well. On some less popular routes the tickets can be purchased from the driver (then there will be a sign "Vadītājs konduktors" in the front window).
    • It's also possible to buy the Riga Card [21], which you can use in all kind of public transports and includes discounts for museums and some tourist attractions.
  • There is a train service that extends to all parts of the country as well as other big cities like Saint Petersburg. However, the tickets do not include information about the time and place to catch the train, that information must be looked up on the train departures info table.
  • Buses (Eurolines, Ecolines) are used to travel between Tallinn and Vilnius as the train links are irregular to Vilnius and do not exist to Tallinn.
  • Several tourist city tour buses around Riga are available. Go to Strēlnieku laukums in Old Town near Town Hall square as a starting point.
    • MANRO Travel [22] agency offers various types of tours inside Latvia for individuals and groups. Including city, culture and study tours. As well as options for business conferences.
  • Rent a car. There are several offices in Riga airport as well as in other parts of the town. You can even rent a cheap soviet style car for 15 EUR per day (Contact sovietcar@inbox.lv then).

[edit][add listing] See

Riga has several districts. The most popular among travellers is the Old Town (latv. Vecriga, germ. Altriga), German architecture and magnificent Doma Cathedral (German: Domkirche, Latvian: Doma baznīca) with the world famous organ inside, along with vivid nightlife, makes Vecriga the most interesting spot. You will need approximately half a day to walk around Vecriga.

The area around Vecriga is mostly built between 1860 and 1914 and has many buildings that resemble the ones in Berlin, Paris or Rome. Many Soviet movies about West were filmed here during Soviet times, as it was considerably easier to film here than to go overseas.

The mostly residential areas outside Riga center are largely filled with grey apartment blocks built in the typically Soviet style. These areas are nearly identical to those all over the former USSR and some cities in western Europe. However, they do give an idea of how the vast majority of the people in Riga live and of the history of the area.

  • Wander around the old town -- lots of beautiful buildings.
  • During Christmas season there is a small market which offers lots of festive fare.
  • The three brothers are the oldest dwelling houses in Riga.
  • The Occupation Museum is a must for understanding Latvia's history. It is in gloomy box-like building that was previously a museum dedicated to Soviet heroes. In front of the building stands an occupation-era statue of the Riga Red (Soviet) Riflemen. There is a trolley bus circle in front of the statue.
  • The Art Nouveau architecture in Alberta and Elizabetes streets is the best place to see the creations of Art Nouveau architect Eisenstein, famous of his splendid style. Otherwise, Art Nouveau buidings can be see all over centre of Riga.
  • Mežaparks (English: Forest Park) is a pleasant park area on the outskirts of Riga. There are large, gorgeous residential houses once inhabited by Riga's pre-war elite during the summers. They were largely let go during Soviet times but many are now being refurbished, repainted, and brought back to their original glory. The Riga Zoo is also here, along with an attraction park.
  • The TV Tower, a 368 metre high tower built of concrete standing on three legs. It has an observation deck in a height of 97 metres.
  • St. Peters Church has an elevator to the tower from where you can see all of Riga (service not available on Mondays).
  • The Central Market (Centrāltirgus) near the central train station is an excellent place to buy fresh produce, meat, dairy, and the occasional counterfeit goods, though these have been mostly eradicated.
  • Take the train that goes to Tukums until the stop called Majori and go to the Latvian Baltic Coast. In snowy days it's amazing!
  • Riga is full of different parks, many of them extremely picturesque. The central park along of city channel was created by German garden architect Kuphaldt.
  • Brīvdabas muzejs (English: Riga Ethnographic Open Air Museum) is located in Jugla, near a lake of the same name. Take bus N.1 or Tram 1, 3, 6 (but from the tram there is a 2 km walking distance). There are many traditional Latvian countryside houses collected in a forest/park and exhibitions inside them about the traditional things. The employees are often dressed in the traditional Latvian costumes, creating a nice atmosphere.
  • There is a lot of sightseeing just out of the center that are usually not listed on tourist guides, such as:
    • Maskavas forštate (English: Moscow suburb) - district with old wooden houses. However, you should beware criminal activity here, especially at night.
    • Andrejsala - an artists' island behind the passengers port is starting to emerge here.
    • Āgenskalns - historical part of Pārdaugava (Riga on the other side of Daugava). Take tram No. 2 (going through South Āgenskalns, get out at stops Āgenskalna tirgus (Agenskalns market), Pārslas iela, Ormaņu iela, or Kalnciema iela), or tram No. 4 or 5 (going through North Āgenskalns, get out at stop Nometņu iela).
      • If you use any of these trams and get out shortly (2nd stop) after bridge over Daugava you will see and be able to walk to the high Soviet occupation era monument in a middle of a large park. It is the largest occupation era monument (Uzvaras piemineklis (English: Victory monument)), a splendid example of the traditional Soviet art.
    • Ķīpsala island with its Nordic dwelling architecture, solitude and delicious sights of Riga over river Daugava. The usual method of getting there is by crossing Vanšu bridge over Daugava.

[edit][add listing] Do

Sit outside in the summer months and enjoy the day. Go to the river and take a walk during summer days to see the sunset.

Go to the historic opera house and see an opera or ballet.

Go to the Skyline Bar at the top (26th floor) of Reval Hotel near the Freedom Monument. Excellent views and moderately priced drinks (beer 2.20 Lats Cocktail 4-5 Lats). Finding a table next to the windows might be difficult after 11pm.

Go on a trip to the east of Riga. You will find a large band of parks and gardens dating back to the 19th Century. Almost 20% of Riga's city area is devoted to these well-kept gardens and they should certainly be visited.

If you want to see more of the city of Riga, you can try Eat Riga, this is an alternative walking tour operating daily from Saint Peters church beside Ratslaukums, info on these can be found in the main info centre, great way to see more of the places in the city hidden away.

[edit][add listing] Buy

The markets next to International Bus Terminal are full of people selling their wares at stalls, both inside the large halls and around the outside. The market is actually quite non-touristy with more emphasis on selling things like second-hand clothing, food, furniture or kitchen supplies. In here you can buy almost anything... Very good for souvenirs. There are lots of small cafes scattered around the markets that serve up cheap local eats.

Don't go to the souvenir shops, instead buy items like amber and wool mittens and socks in the central market or throughout Old Riga in little stands. You might haggle and get good prices for souvenirs.

If you are looking for Soviet era items, such as hats, medals, pins, or complete uniforms, go to the flea market "Latgalite" situated on the corner of Gogola/Dzirnavu st. On the way there you will see old buildings that aren't exactly well conserved, but there are some that are breathtaking.

Nice local artwork can be found at Galerija Istaba (Krišjāņa Barona 31). There's also a small cafe/bar on the second floor. Very nice, laid-back atmosphere.

There is a Stockmann department store next the Riga Central Train Station (Centrālstacija)

[edit][add listing] Eat

Riga, as the most vibrant and cosmopolitan city of the Baltics, offers countless opportunities to sample both local cuisine and international favorites. Latvian food can be hearty, using a lot of potato, cabbage, beef, pork and fish. A diversity of foreign cuisines is also available -- sushi restaurants in particular are currently in vogue.

  • If you want to eat cheap, try "Čili Pica" (pronounced "chili pizza"). They have several restaurants. One is on the ground floor of Stockman shopping mall near central station. Another is next to the freedom monument. You'll get nice pizzas for a very good price!
  • If you want to try some Latvian type of food go to "Smilsu Pulkstenis" in Kalku iela #7 ;) Still cheap and tasty!
  • There are plenty of of restaurants (called 'Restorans') and cafés around the old town, many of which serve food until midnight, some later.
  • Lido is another chain of restaurants, where you can get lots of food for good prices simply by pointing at it. The Lido Entertainment Center operates a bus to and from Riga; the center itself provides buffet-style dining, live music and other amusements.
  • Alus Seta (literally Beer Yard), serves huge portions of excellent meat and two veg from a grill at the front of the tavern, as well as an excellent choice of Beer. Probably the best value place in town.
  • Rozengrāls - an authentic medieval restaurant in a real medieval basement in the Old Town. Serves tasty medieval foods and beverages, more info on homepage.
  • Vecmeita ar kaķi, Mazā Pils iela 1. Restaurant and bar, serving very good Latvian food (a more upmarket option than Lido).
  • For a Russian experience, try out Traktieris (Russian: Трактиръ) (Antonijas iela 8). Huge servings, great food, loads of vodkas to try out, and a Russian troubadour for entertainment. Few tourists.
  • Osiris is a small, cosy restaurant in Krisjana Barona 31. Cool interior, fireplace and pancakes worth killing for. While there, drop by Gallerija Istaba for another cup of coffee or beer, and make sure to check out some of the artwork sold downstairs.
  • If you want to try good food for student prices during the school year (from September until June) try finding the student cafeteria on Ķīpsala Island. Several sets of home-like food are offered in a cosy atmosphere.
  • Vincents, Elizabetes 19, ☎ +371 733 26 34. M. - F.: Noon-11PM, Sat: 6PM-11PM, Su: Closed. If you're splashing out try Vincents Restaurant which compares favorably to any up market western restaurant at half the price. 20 Ls.  edit
  • Cafe Grill Bar/Stork's Nest Pub, Email: slbars@e-apollo.lv. This small restaurant bar is located in the heart of the city and 20 feet from the entrance of the Konventa Seta Hotel. Address: Kaleju 14-16, Riga, Latvia. This new restaurant/bar was great: This place is very American/English friendly, the waiters and bartender all speak very good English, and it is completely smoke free. The food is excellent with both American dishes and Latvian food. Prices for food and the bar are very good. American music, American/English memorabilia on the walls (not like the Hard Rock), large plasma & large projection TV with American/English shows and sporting events and they even have drinkable water with ice on tap and for free. This is a jewel of a restaurant/bar all the comforts of the USA/UK with Latvian food.
  • Juffin's 12 (Russian: Джуффинова Дюжина), 10 Aldaru Street, ☎ +371 6722 4271 (, fax: +371 6722 4272), [23]. 11AM-11PM.  edit

If you are in a mood to treat yourself and friends to a great fare this restaurant is the right place. With reasonable prices, the quality of the wonderfully inventive but simple European/Oriental food is amongst the best in Riga. Stunning wine list and prompt service come together to make this rather unsung Vecriga fixture one of Riga’s best dining places.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Latvia produces a number of excellent and award-winning beers (alus), which are widely available. Aldaris is a major brewery with several kinds of beer. Tērvetes beer is considered the best Latvian beer, also Užavas and Piebalgas beers are good. Cesu alus is a safe bet, euro lager style. Avoid Livu alus, it's bad. The price of beers in Riga old town is not particular cheap, averaging 2 lats each.

Latvia is also Europe's northernmost wine-producing region, although amounts are minuscule and fully local wines cannot be bought in supermarkets or restaurants. However, wines and even sparkling wines made of imported grapes can be bought in supermarkets and restaurants. Expect neither the grandeur nor the price tag of a Bordeaux.

  • Pulkvedis is a trendy place popular with a younger crowd, 3 Lats entry fee, dressed down door staff but wouldn't mess with them! ALL of the barmen are v.good and the speed is superb. The basement offers techno-ish and/or alternative sounds. Upstairs which is the busiest area with a mix of pop/dance occasional rock music. It is a very busy place on Thurs/Fri/Sat and is closed on Sunday. Beer 2 lats, vodka orange 2.75, vodka coke 2.50, cocktails average 4-5. Probably the best place in Riga along with the Skyline bar.
  • Cuba Bar. Cozy bar, DJ in the evenings (who mimes!).

Also try Riga Balsam. It's available almost everywhere and if you're cold, you won't be after a shot of it! It will also clear out your bowels.

[edit][add listing] Sleep

  • All Latvian hotels - Hotels in Riga.

[edit] Free

CouchSurfing project [24] is relatively popular in Riga (about 1 000 users in Riga). You have to register your own profile to use it though. In summer, requesting for a couch 2-3 weeks ahead is recommended.

[edit] Budget

  • Backpackers Planet, is just 5 min north of the bus station and 5 min south of the train station. The rooms are clean, private, safe, spacious, and have private bathrooms. They are located next to a very nice farmers market and flea market that have good prices on food, clothing, etc... The rate per night was very good at 18 euros a night for two (low season). It was one of the nicest hostels we stayed in while in Eastern Europe.
  • Dodo Hotel, [25]. First low cost hotel in Riga, opened in March 2008. Modern and design rooms (shower, WC, flat TV, hairdryer). Guaranteed price of 39€ to 49€ all year round (double occupancy). Free WIFI. 6 min from old town by tramway. French owned.
  • Argonaut Hostel, [26]. They opened the first hostel in Riga. Australian owned in the Old Town and remains the hostel that other hostels try to keep up with.
  • B&B Krisjanis and Gertrude, K.Barona iela 39, in the wooden house diagonally opposite the Barona shopping center, entrance in Gertrudes iela, tel 00371 67506604, [27]. Homely atmosphere, comfortable, popular with artists and musicians, city centre, walking distance from opera, music academy, and old town.
  • Barons Hostel, [28]. For the Mature Traveller as they do not accept stag or bucks parties. Is also the HQ for the Australian Chamber of Commerce in Latvia [29]. In the center of town.
  • Riga City Camping, [30]. A nice place in the center of town.
  • Elizabeth's Youth Hostel, [31]. Affordable and friendly hostel in the center of town with free internet access. Just outside the Old Town near the main train station but within easy walking distance of everywhere.
  • Riga Hostel, Marstalu Iela 12, tel 00371 7224520, [32]. Friendly, multilingual staff with a location in the old town center. 62 beds in various hostel configurations.
  • The Old Town Hostel, [33], also has a nice bar which is always open, and is somehow also a hospitality exchange hang-out.
  • The BaltHostel, Markela Iela 1, tel 00371 7224258, [34]. Friendly, multilingual staff just over the road from the central station and a five minute walk from the old town.
  • Central Hostel, [35]. New hostel, bed & breakfast or whatever with many nice double rooms and one 4 beds room. Located near the train station and with all the things you need to spend some days in Riga
  • Doma Hostel, 16 Skunu Street, ☎ 00371 7213101, [36]. Clean, small, safe, cheap, and in a great location. Not the best place to hang out though. They seem to run a nail salon out of the common room during the day, and the kitchen is the size of a closet. They do have free coffee and tea though. edit

[edit] Mid-range

  • Bura Hotel, [37]. Hotel is located in CENTRAL Riga in a peaceful, green and quiet corner on the island of Kipsala, on the edge of the Daugava riverbank, just 5 min drive by car from Old Town (2 km). The hotel was opened in the end of 2007 and includes 12 well-equipped rooms (king size beds, 32" LCD TV, Free WiFi). Some rooms offer a picturesque view over the river Daugava on the church towers of the Old Town, the bridges and the port of Riga. There is also a FREE guarded car parking lot and FREE WiFi. Double room costs from 59 till 68 Eur.
  • Apartment rental is a fairly popular option.

[edit] Splurge

  • Hotel Bergs, 83 Elizabetes Street, 371 777 09 00, fax 371 777 09 40, [38]. An internationally regarded hotel that opened in 2003 located in the heart of Riga. Rooms from LVL 164.

[edit] Get out

From here you might wander west, to see Liepaja , a wonderful city on the Western coast of Latvia, (and the famous former military town of Karosta with its Soviet Prison for tourists is also in Liepaja), or north through Valka to Tartu or Tallinn through Parnu in Estonia, or south to Vilnius or Klaipeda in Lithuania. Or drive the 40 kilometers to the National Park at Sigulda. You can even take a ferry to Sweden.

If you have more than just a couple of days in Riga, take a local train from the main Railway station to Jūrmala. Jurmala is a famous seaside resort and was a popular resort amongst citizens of the USSR. It only takes 25 minutes to get there from Riga by train. Get out in Dzintari Station and walk down the main street to the Concert Hall. The Concert Hall stages international singing competitions once a year and if you come at the right time it is the one not to be missed. You can also get out Majori Station with its long pedestrian-only main street. Great crowds wander the streets in the summertime. Try Cafe Leonora on the main street. It has amazing hot chocolate, cakes and sweets!

In Jūrmala, there is also a big aquapark Livu Akvaparks http://www.akvaparks.lv/. Viestura Iela 24. It is excellent by any standards and has activities for all ages, from young children to the elderly.

Walk down the beach and try to find a piece of amber that is often washed by the waves from the Baltic sea, thus the name Dzintari - The Amber.

http://www.nexuslatvia.lv - Weekends in Riga, Jurmala or Sigulda

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